#without following a pattern or tutorial

[miscellaneous--bones]

My attempt at a little clown doll inspired by the lovely @minkerverse 's clown sons!! Thank you for letting me try my hand at a take on ur clowns I think this little guy is my favorite creation yet :D

Bonus under the cut ;)

Tail!!!!!!!!

[shalom-iamcominghome]

Stay calm, guys, I might have... get this... a second kippah to wear in a few hours 😱

[nsdrawsstuff]

Been getting into amigurumi lately

[artfromsaturn]

Collection of Free Art Tutorials

I don't usually make text post on this blog, but a nice artist I know was asking for tutorials a while back and I forgot to send some to them while in school. So here's a post on it since it's easiest to grab and go this way. :)

This list focuses on the basics. I'm focusing on the foundations of art, so medium is generally irrelevant and you can use physical or digital with these. You'll have to google more specific tutorials on things like character design and such.

One of the biggest pieces of advice I can give to you is strangely, introduce things to yourself one at a time. In art class, we took whole topics week by week. For high school, we did a few exercises then spent a week drawing/painting and doing your piece(s). For basic art 1 & 2 in college, we did 1-2 exercises and then did 1-2 drawings, followed by HW (which we turned in next week) and sketchbook practice (which she'd check at midpoints). For basic art lessons with a tutor, we did practice then our own art. You can see the pattern here - the point is don't be distressed if you don't get everything at once, or the lesson in 2 weeks, or the lesson in 3 years - we practice and do a lot over time, and you'll pick up on things you need to improve naturally and through help with others. Take time to be proud of your art in mini steps too, even if it's not the best! You tried and attempting to climb an obstacle over and over again before finally leapfrogging it is still progress to it.

Overall tutorials:

DrawABox.com is a site that's dedicated to art exercises and practicing when you can. They talk about the basics of art as well as how practice is important. It can get tough at times and it's ok to stop and do a balance of say those practices and doodles if you choose to try and do all of it's stuff - but you don't have to either. It's just a nice basic education done by some art nerds who like going hard.

Ethering Brothers - these guys are famous for their 40billion tutorials. If you need help on a specific idea, search their gallery and you'll likely find something.

Thundercluck's Art Fundamentals - She did a good huge ass tutorials on how things work, and it's the least overwhelming of the 3 I got in this section, so I suggest it as one of the first to look at for digital stuff.

Art Instructions Blog - Another good & simpler website that goes great into fundamentals. They focus more on traditional art but if you're digital, you can replicate most of the techniques - art fundamentals and subjects cover all mediums. Very important

Drawsh - Particularly notes on Construction: construction is the basics of building an illusion of a 3D image on a page. Figuring out how to build shape gives depth to your work, and learning how to see in 3D lets you be able to draw an item then move it around in your head (sometimes, when you're good enough, don't be afraid to pull out a reference or use live subjects). Construction is how to figure out the foundation of your drawing, and good planning = better picture! This link starts at the back, hit newer post to go forward.

There's a lot on anatomy and other nitty gritty details for when you want to practice those as well.

Griz and Norm's Assorted tips - Long time artist talk about various tips and tricks they use in art and how to avoid certain pitfalls. It's eclectic but great to look through.

James Gurney's Blog - He's got a lot of thoughts, a lot of tips, and a lot of adventures he catalogues. It's the least organized out of these but fortunately he has plenty of tags and most post have something neat going on. He's fantastic!🥰

BEFORE ALL OTHER BASICS….

How to Make Your Art Look Nice: Mindset

There's a lot of artist with different perspectives on how to approach art and your mindset while doing it, but the general consensus is that it's a process and sometimes you have to remind yourself to enjoy art!

Line

How to draw straight lines without a ruler. …but for the love of all that's good do NOT feel bad about using one! This talks about how to hold your pencil and how to do some good freehand stuff, some good practice.

5 grips for holding a Pencil for Drawing - This goes for pencil, pen, tablet, etc.. Get comfortable and figure out what's right for you and your pictures. I'd like to note that paintbrush holding will overlap, but some will differ.

A few line drawing exercises that help with line confidence.

Types of line drawings & what they are.

Contour Line & exercises with Mrs. Cook - Contour lines are one of the first art exercises I do in all the drawing classes I've taken. The good news is that they're surprisingly fun & look neat, even the blind contours!

Good deep thoughts on lines and how to use them.

Line Weight Tutorial

Lineart Weight Tips!

How to show variation in your line art: part 1 & part 2.

Some teacher's Drawing 1 & 2 lessons put online.

Light, Shadow, & Value

An introduction to tonal values.

Why values are important. The main reasons are that they give depth to a piece, and values literally shape our world.

Tonal Values: Everything you need to know

How does light work & the basics on Light

Light & Shadow in Art - much more in depth of the above! Highly recommended if you have time to spare.

Understanding grayscale/monochrome art. Great for shading & planning.

A guide to Cross Hatching (and hatching in general) - As a side note, crosshatching is one of the early things taught as it marries Line + Value into a nice neat package and helps add form with just a pen.

Crosshatching for Comics

Learn more about coloring by working in grayscale

How to Make Your Art Look Nice - Contrast!

Using lighting to make your art look nice.

Some light & shadow classifications.

Edges - notes on how they work in shading.

Color

A side note - color theory doesn't differ much, but color MIXING will change between mediums. If you're doing traditional colored pencil, you're overlapping 2 or more pigments on top of each other. If you're doing traditional paint, you're mixing & creating a solution/emulsion (depends on the pigment and binding) of pigments with the particles reflecting light in different ways. In digital, overlapping colors & blending colors depend on how the program you use calculates it if you're not just putting 2 color side by side. This just means you have to adjust your mixing when you switch between them. :)

Slawek Fedorczuk's Light & Color Tips - also shows how to guide through a scene.

The Color Tutorial Part 1 & 2 by Sashas - A personal favorite.

Color Studies 1-6 by Sheri Doty Amazingly nice breakdown on how color works in simple terms.

Sarah Culture's Tips on Color

The value of underpainting

A few notes on reflective light.

Experimental color techniques with Alai Ganuza: first post, second, & third.

Color zones of the face charts

Composition

Good Tips on Composition

Here's an example of how you can search the Etherington Brothers' stuff and get like 10 tutorials and tips on one subject. Composition & Cover Design, Shadow Composition, Two Line Composition - plus more.

How to make your art look nice: Thumbnailing!

And don't be afraid to make silly thumbnails or sketches.

Composition Examples - charts like these are great when you can't think of something yourself. There's no shame in using them.

Flow and Rhythm

Formulas for landscape composition.

Perspective

Perspective Drawing Tutorial by Julie Duell

Linear & Atmospheric Perspective Guide

One Point Perspective City Tut by Swingerzetta

Niso Explains Perspective - these are great for drawing figures in perspective!

Putting characters into scenes and drawing backgrounds

Backgrounds that make your character stand out!

Using background detail to guide the eye.

Odds and Ends

I shit you not, probably 1/3rd of my color, value, & structure knowledge comes from pixel art since I've done so much of it and it is all about challenging yourself to do the most you can with limitations. Check out lospec's tutorial database for fun and see how it compares to art techniques you're doing - even if you never try a medium, it's always interesting to see how it works. :D

How to Make Your Art Look Nice: Reference Images & Style, Pushing Proportions, and developing style.

Foervraengd talks about how he expanded his comfort zone with concept art & landscape drawing.

Luna Art talks about what they're thinking when doing concept art.

Repeating visual motifs in character design looks cool.

Eric's Thoughts on Drawing Backgrounds and Props.

Show vs. Tell: Why Visual is Not Optional in comics.

The Lost Vocabulary of Visual Story Telling Day 1, Day 2, Day 3, & Day 4.

Traditional Animation's 2 Digital Library books, The Know-How of Cartooning by Ken Hultgren & Advanced Animation by Preston Blair are two books from the golden age of animation they have up on their site for free viewing!

Animation resources dot org has a lot of cool stuff. Here's Nat Falk's How to Make Animated Cartoons (part 1). Their pages on Instruction & Theory are a good start.

Books

Good news: the internet archive has a TON of resources. Make sure to check around and toggle filters, it's a bit weird with organization. For example, a book can be under art or drawing - techniques, depending on who catalogues it.

Andrew Loomis is someone artist tend to die-hard reccomend. His work is collected here & here on the internet archive (one is Andrew Loomis, the other is Loomis, Andrew - thanks). I own Figure Drawing for All It's Worth and I recommend checking all of his stuff out, especially if you're having trouble with bodies and hands.

The Animator's Survival Guide by Richard Williams is mandatory in animation classes for good reason - it's fantastic!

Perspective for Comic Book Artist by David Chelsea is great for any type of artist. So is Extreme Perspective & Perspective in Action.

Scott McCloud's Understanding Comics, Reinventing Comics, & Making Comics. The first one is on the internet archive, the second two are likely avaliable at your library or at a bookstore as they're pretty popular.

Speaking of comics, Drawing Comics the Marvel Way has been a favorite of comic artist for years no matter what comic book companies and artist you like, it's a good introduction.

Anything by or endorsed by James Gurney, Color and Light: A Guide for the Realistic Painter is one of my favorites (this is his official page but you can get them elsewhere for cheaper too).

Art resource blogs with good tagging systems: @artist-refs , @help-me-draw , @helpfulharrie , @art-res , @drawingden , & @how-to-art

Lastly, I suggest if you find something you like online for free, SAVE IT! Whether it is through the Wayback Machine, screenshotting a whole webpage, reblogging/retweeting something, or putting it on pinterest, digital media is fickle and tends to go up in smoke when you least expect it. I have a partially organized Pinterest board that helped me find most of the stuff I wanted to keep. Figure out what works for you and save what you can.

[theres-a-body-here]

Scumtober- Day 10 (Knotting)

Legoshi x Male!reader

If someone had told you at the beginning of your relationship with Legoshi that he would be the one to initiate sex, you probably would have laughed in their face.

So imagine your surprise when, after a particularly amazing date, Legoshi proposed that the two of you have sex the next night.

You didn't know what to expect. You're a virgin and as far as you know, he was too. To be honest, you were scared. You took enough biology to know that wolf knot plus a human ass would definitely mean pain. That's not even taking into consideration that Legoshi was way taller than wolves of his own species.

But you had time to prepare, so you did.

You followed every tutorial on Furrchan and Beastube, especially that one gay dude who Nair'd his ass on video and posted it onto the site. He seemed like the expert to go to. You went out shopping and frantically bought everything you might need for such a challenge. Lube, condoms, douche, and information pamphlets went into your cart.

You currently sat on Legoshi's bed bunk, waiting for him to arrive. You had showered, cleaned yourself out, and even used the shampoo that Legoshi liked. Everything had to go perfectly. You even had some soft music playing through a small speaker.

As you waited anxiously, the atmosphere in the room seemed to thicken with anticipation. Every sound that echoed down the hallway amplified your heartbeat just a little more, making each moment feel like an eternity.

Finally, after what felt like hours, there was a gentle knock on the door followed by its slow creak open. In walked Legosi, looking quite flustered as nervously walked over and sat on the bed with you.

"So…uhh," You muttered, not sure how to initiate sex. You were in the dark about these kinds of things.

At your hesitation, Legoshi's eyes darted around nervously before returning to meet yours halfway. He swallowed hard, taking a deep breath as he tried to find the words within him. His cheeks flushed under his fur even deeper at his own embarrassment.

Finally, he managed to squeak out softly, "Um... do you want me to undress first?" It was clear from his voice that this was foreign territory for him too; there was an uncertainty lacing every syllable.

You pause for a moment, trying to remember the pamphlet about healthy sexual relationships. "What if.....what if we help remove each other's clothes?" You finally manage to recite meekly as you fiddled with your thumbs.

At your suggestion, Legosi's eyes lit up slightly as he nodded eagerly. "Yeah," he murmured softly, "that sounds good."

With a snail's pace, he began reaching out to gently grab hold of your shirt hem. With a hesitant look in his eyes, he began to tug lightly, urging you to move closer so he could pull it off properly without letting go entirely. As he did so, he took note of your reaction—whether you were uncomfortable or enjoying the contact between them. You nod timidly and lift your arms up.

As soon as Legosi felt your permission through your lifted arms, he quickly grasped onto the idea and began pulling your shirt upwards with newfound confidence. His fingers brushing against your skin sent shivers down your spine. Once fully off, Legoshi started at your bare torso. He shifted closer as if wanting to take in the sight.

As Legoshi moved closer, his hot breath danced along your neck sending shivers down your spine. He couldn't resist taking in your scent, trying to commit it to memory forever. The way his nose grazed against your skin ignited a spark inside him, awakening primal desires that he didn't know existed until now. His heart raced faster as adrenaline coursed through his veins—this was intoxicating!

This set the pattern.

One of you would take off the other's article of clothing, then stare at their body. As the two of you progressively shed layers of clothing, the air between you became charged with electricity. Every brush of fingers against skin sent ripples of pleasure through your bodies. Even though you were both nervous and unsure, something about this exchange felt right.

Finally sitting face to face in nothing but their underwear, Legoshi couldn't tear his gaze away from you. He traced delicate patterns over your chest with his fingertips, marveling at how soft your skin felt beneath them. Meanwhile, you reached out to feel his soft fur.

Both of you blushed deeply as you realized where this was heading. Neither of you wanted to make the first move, fearful of crossing boundaries or being rejected. But despite your hesitations, neither could bring themselves to break eye contact either.

Slowly, almost reluctantly, Legoshi reached out towards your boxers, his fingers trembling slightly as they hovered just above the fabric. With bated breath, he slowly pulled down the waistband of your boxers, revealing your erect cock beneath. Your member twitched slightly at the sensation of cool air bathing it. After a few minutes of Legoshi staring in awe at your dick, You decide to return the favor and pull his briefs off.

As you pulled Legoshi's underwear off, exposing his hardened cock tentatively, he let out a soft moan of relief. Feeling increasingly bold, he reached out to touch your cock once again, stroking it slowly with his palm while looking into your eyes for any sign of discomfort.

Taking courage from his touch, you leaned in close, wrapping one arm around him to pull him close for a kiss. Your lips met in a tender kiss as your bodies pressed flush together. Your tongues tentatively explored each other's mouths as you began grinding your hips together in sync, rubbing your cocks against each other.

You shifted to lay in the bed. Legoshi didn't stop kissing you as he followed your movements. Fortunately, you had prepared for the next part since you didn't want to waste precious time. You had already lubed your hole prior. But it was still worrying to think about Legoshi's knotted cock fitting into your ass.

As you lay back on the bed, Legoshi couldn't help but stare at your ass, his heart pounding with desire. He knew that this was going to happen eventually, but seeing it right here in front of him made it all the more real.

His brow furrowed in concern when he saw the expression on your face, worry written all over it. "I don't want to hurt you," he murmured softly, his voice full of regret.

You shook your head reassuringly, trying to calm him down. "It's okay," you whispered back, placing a hand on his chest to steady him. "We can take things slow."

With a deep breath, Legoshi nodded slowly, still uncertain but willing to trust in your words. Together, you guided him closer, positioning his tip at your entrance. He had a strong grip on your hips and you placed your hands over his.

"Are you ready?" you asked quietly, meeting his eyes for reassurance. He nodded again, biting his lip as he prepared for the inevitable penetration. Slowly, carefully, he eased himself inside you, groaning softly at the tightness surrounding him.

As Legoshi pushed further into you, a sharp stab of pain shot through your body. You winced and let out a small cry, causing him to freeze midway. "Did I hurt you?" he asked worriedly, pulling back slightly. Closing your eyes tightly to block out the pain, you forced yourself to relax and breathe steadily. When you opened your eyes again, you saw the genuine concern reflected in Legosi's gaze. He looked truly frightened at the prospect of hurting you.

Reaching up, you cupped his cheek gently and smiled reassuringly. "No," you said softly, "just a bit of discomfort. Keep going..." Your voice trailed off as he resumed his thrusts, slowly pushing further into you. Despite the pain, you couldn't deny the intense pleasure mixed with it. The sensation of being filled by your boyfriend was overwhelming. As Legoshi picked up speed, his hands entwined with yours.

As Legoshi's pace quickened, sweat dripping down his fur, his movements became erratic yet powerful. Drool slipped past his parted lips, trailing down his chin as he lost himself in the motions. His eyes were glazed over, focused solely on you and the rhythmic movement of their bodies. His muscles tensed with each thrust, the sounds of fur slapping against skin filling the room.

Every time you cried out in pleasure or arched your back, it drove him even harder, his cock throbbing with need inside you. He lost track of time and place, consumed by the primal desire pulsing through him. All he could see was you and all he wanted was more.

Legoshi's voice cracked as he tried to speak, the heat building up inside him making it difficult to form coherent sentences. "Mmm... God, you feel so good," he moaned, his tongue tangled in his attempts to express himself.

As he continued to pound into you, his hips slapping against your ass, he managed to gather enough strength to whisper, "Please... tell me how much you love this... Tell me it's amazing!"

Despite his plea, he doubted anything could have prepared him for the wave of emotion that crashed over him when you finally answered, your voice hoarse with passion, "Yes... yes, it's incredible. Don't stop."

Legoshi's hand slid down between your legs, his rough fingers curling around your cock as he began to stroke it in time with his thrusts. Your moans of pleasure echoed off the walls, driving him wild with lust. Unable to contain himself any longer, he threw his head back and roared, the sound reverberating throughout the room.

Legoshi's moans grew more intense as his pace increased, his body trembling with the effort of holding back his climax. "I love you," he chanted between ragged breaths, his voice breaking with emotion. "God, I love you so much."

"I love you too," you replied between heavy pants as you felt your world spinning. Your body quivered with each thrust, the sensations overloading your senses. You clung to Legoshi and wrapped your legs around his waist for dear life as he stirred your guts with his cock. Before you knew it, your entire body tensed up as you came with a loud moan.

As you came, your body convulsing in pleasure as you spilled seed onto your stomach, Legoshi growled low in his throat. The sound vibrated against your skin. Seeing your release only fueled his desire further, and he continued to pound into you, determined to claim his own release.

Legoshi's entire body tensed up as he felt his orgasm approaching, his movements becoming more frantic as he neared the edge. Just as he felt like he couldn't hold back anymore, he let out a loud, primal yell. In one thrust, he slammed his knot into you, locking into place with a wet popping sound. He released himself inside you, filling you up with his warm cum as his knot kept you in place. You whimper as you feel it coat your insides. His body shuddered violently as he let out a long, drawn-out moan.

Legoshi stayed buried deep inside you, his body still trembling with excitement. He nuzzled against your face affectionately, soft kisses scattered across your neck and shoulders. "I'm so sorry if it hurts," he whispered softly.

You ran your fingers through his fur gently, offering reassurance as you spoke, "It's okay." You paused for a moment before adding, "Besides, maybe it won't be so bad having us stuck together like this for a while." You gave him a playful smirk which only served to make him flustered even more.

You both spent the rest of the night cuddling closely together, occasionally shifting positions to ease the discomfort caused by his knot. As sleep claimed you both, you drifted off happily knowing Legoshi was connected to you, physically and emotionally.

Scumtober 2023 Masterlist

[deniisu-sims]

TS4 Vampires GP Ribbon Tights - 4t3 Conversion

Please ignore that I put EP instead of GP in the preview

This could only be possible with @thornowl's tutorial - without it, I would have NO IDEA of aligning the ribbon design below the ankle, since TS3 and TS4 foot UV maps are incredibly different.

SO YEAH, IT WORKS! And those are legit tights instead of leggings!

There's only some slight pattern distortion close to the inner ankles - not very noticeable, probably a result of the 8px bake border, the discrepancy of the UVs or maybe the raytrace setting, dunno. Not that perceptible + it's the first time I followed the tutorial, so... bear with me on this one.

DOWNLOAD (package): SFS / Dropbox

[dolljunk]

Since I didn't have any of Kiyomi's outfit complete, I figured I would design a School's Out outfit for her inspired by Draculaura's Forbitten Love dress.

TheUkelele on Deviantart released a pattern of the dress, which I followed pretty closely and had no issues recreating in a new colourway for Kiyomi. I really did like Kiyomi and Draculaura's dynamic, so this was mostly a joke with my friends about how Kiyomi's subsequent releases would just be recoloured versions of Draculaura if G1 kept going.

For her hair, I actually followed a Jenny doll magazine tutorial on doing pigtails for dolls without rooting on the back, where you would thatch the hair in larger chunks to cover the bald patch.

For her front, I decided to give her a hime cut to lean into the Japanese street influence for her fashion as I didn't just wanna stick her in a kimono and call it a day, lol.

Her shoes are Haunted Draculaura shoes and a pair of Rochelle socks to complete the look.

[cringeborg]

Inès - an 1890s daydress

Here's a not-so-little recolor of this dress by Kizaragy. I'm not sure if they have a tumblr, which is unfortunate because all I want to do is tell them how absolutely BREATHTAKING their dress is, and how well it works for the 1890s. Oh well. I'm telling the world instead, I suppose.

I'd say this style of dress was most fashionable between around 1892 and 1894, but you could probably use it for the whole 1890s, maybe even up to the early 1900s. It really depends on how closely your Sims follow fashion trends, I suppose.

There are swatches in more extravagant, "expensive" colors, as well as simpler, less bright ones. This means it's a very versatile dress in terms of class as well. Anyone from a farmer's wife to a noblewoman could wear it.

I also noticed that the mesh and texture are quite nicely divided into a top and bottom half, so I made some swatch overlays for the skirt as well. There's a separate link to that underneath the download links for the dress itself.

150 swatches - plain colors and 6 different patterns

Mesh is required (TSR warning)

Tagged as feminine

Tagged as Casual, Formal, Athletic, Party, Hot Weather and Cold Weather

Found in the Long Dress category

Disabled for random

Display index by decade

Download Inès Dress (SFS)

Alt Download (Mediafire)

Download SKIRT COLOR OVERLAY

Known issues: The original has a thing where it makes certain hats invisible, similarly to how a long-sleeved shirt makes bracelets invisible, except it's much more annoying, because what's an 1890s dress without hats? I can't fix this in a recolor since the mesh isn't included, but I've provided a short tutorial on how to fix this in the original. You're gonna need Sims 4 Studio (Star) installed.

Tutorial HERE

@twentiethcenturysims @decadesfinds @maxismatchccworld @mmoutfitters

[kaphzzz]

VP tutorial - Rampage trainer animations

Probably the only tutorial dedicated to Rampage trainer that I'll make, as it's one of the only parts of Rampage that isn't very intuitive and actually lacks some things that you can't get unless you parse the original animation database and do some exhaustive testing.

Animation dictionary list (prerequisite)

‼️ IMPORTANT: download the full animation list HERE. Rampage only comes with a very shortened list upon download, so I have parsed the datamined anims files to get this list. Simply drop this into /RampageFiles/Lists and REPLACE the original PedAnimList.txt. DO NOT RENAME THE FILE.

Now when you go into Player>Animations>Dictionaries and click 'reload list', the full list will be displayed. :D (This will need to be reloaded every time you open Rampage.)

Animation flags

In the animation tab there will be an option to set a flag. A 'flag' is an optional setting that tells the program what to do, in this case this is an integer option that lets you specify which parts of the body you want the animation to affect.

In the trainer a few flags are already provided (0 - non repeat, 1 - repeat/hold, etc) but there are also much more. After some dumb exhaustive testing here are the flags:

25: upper body only, repeat (can isolate upper body animation from a full body animation)

49: face only, repeat, body not affected on facial anims. You should only be using this flag on a facial animation.

Using flags to play different animations on different body parts

The animations can stack depending on the flag you set, which is why flags are so important. The body part that the flag covers will overwrite any previous animation playing on that part, so the order would be full body (1) -> upper body -> face (49).

To be more specific, in order to mix the animations, you need to follow this order: find the animation you want the legs to play, set the flag to 1, then play the animation. Then search and find the animation for the upper body and head, set the flag to 25, then play the anim. Then find the facial anim, set the flag to 49, then play the anim. Now you have 3 different animations playing on different parts of your character.

For example, folded arms for his upper body and sitting for his lower body.

NOTE: Sometimes this is faulty! The face and upper body anims may overwrite each other. You can play around with the flag to find a combination that doesn't overwrite each other, typically they will be within a numeric range for similar body parts (e.g. 48-54 are all facial anims, with what difference I don't know). I also may have not exhausted all possible flags, so experiment with it! For example, 1 (repeat full body) on a facial animation will play the facial anim with the body in T-pose, so it may be useful when you want Arthur to be completely still. I will update this if I find a reliable solution (the notes I took for the flag list is lost, I may need to test it again).

Searching for animations

By using the search function you can quickly get the anims you want. Unfortunately the search doesn't support regular expressions, which is a real shame, so you may have to just search for one specific phrase and scroll through.

However the anims are named according to a certain format, and if you know the pattern searching is a lot easier. For example, searching for the below text will give (ignore the whitespaces after the @ )

_face / @ face : facial anims, use with flag 49

@ player / player_base : Player character specific

player_zero : Arthur specific

player_three : John specific

script_story : mission cutscene animations

cnv_camp : camp conversations

gen / generic : generic anims

respawn : anims that play on the player when you load in

And of course, you can also search for any keyword. Such as 'sit', 'sleep', 'armed', etc.

Player location and rotation

You can always fine tune your player position if you want, for example, to make Arthur lean on a wall without any gap.

You will need to hijack the ped to get the ped into the ped database.

In Spawner>Peds>Hijack Ped, you can input the ped name if it currently exists to register it in the ped database (e.g. 'player_zero' for Arthur), or spawn a new ped (it will go automatically into the ped database). Then within the ped database, select the ped, go into General and tick Freeze Entity. This will disable unwanted moving around. Then in Positioning, you can fine tune the position and facing of your character.

If you can't be bothered with this but still want to be able to for example get to specific places you normally can't, you can turn on 'clip through objects' in the Player tab.

Attaching items to your character

You can attach spawned items to specific bones of your character. The bone list is here. Within the object database and in the object, you can select Attach To Something>Me>Bone Index. For example, while a cigarette automatically spawns in a scenario, it doesn't spawn for an animation. You can manually spawn a cig and attach it to Arthur's right hand. Here, I spawned a cigar and attached it to his right hand finger (index 292) and then played a cigar animation.

And that's about it for animations!

A lot of this knowledge comes from familiarity with the flags and search function, as well as some animations I always go back to because I can't be bothered to find a better alternative. If you find a good animation where the naming isn't intuitive, I recommend noting it down with a screenshot to find it easier next time.

If there's anything else anyone wants to ask, wants me to elaborate or make clear, or add themselves, please leave a comment.

Reblogs appreciated! <3

[huntinglove]

How to get away from antiship spaces (mostly)

Warnings: Long post, antis mention, mentions of pedophilia, rape, self harm and gore (none show, not descriptive)

Have you recently learned that you align yourself with the proship label? Would you like to get away from antis as safely as you can? Here's what I've learned, as an ex anti:

1. It may be hard, but try to get rid of/abandon your accounts where you used to interact with antis.

This is one of the hardest steps because having a lot of followers can be discouraging, but it's the safest approach in this situation, because if antis see you following or interacting with proshippers they WILL question you about it and depending on how you tackle their asks they'll throw you to the wolves and publicly "warn" people about you so people can mass report your account/harass you

This applies to anything; Tumblr blogs, Twitter profiles, Discord servers, if you've interacted with antis block them and delete your account if you decide to adopt the proship label

Antis constantly claim that they don't harass people but as soon as someone drops the anti label they dogpile them and call them "traitors" as well as their usual buzzwords to catch people's attention, it's better to pull the plug directly than just rebrand your account

1.5. If you REALLY want to keep your account because you've used it for a long time or because it works as a portfolio, please create a different account to post about proship content

If you make a new account remember to block your anti mutuals/followers from your main account before you start posting, art styles can be very unique and easy to spot similarities in, as well as typing patterns and reoccurring emojis/symbols

If there's the option to, keep your profile private until you've built a steady environment for yourself, if you prefer to keep your profile private permanently that's also a good option!

Remember, your safety matters more than numbers on a screen!

2. This one should go without saying but, please don't share much of your trauma/mental health issues/triggers with people online in general, but especially not with antis

I used to talk about my struggles and vent publicly a lot, antis would stalk my accounts and send me all types of fucked up content.

I've had people send me rape videos and threats, people telling me I deserved the abuse I went through, people would send me gore and self harm images, as well as suicide tutorials.

They can and will use all of it to their advantage, they're restless and will dig up even decade old posts if they feel it'll be useful for them. It can and will take a toll on your mental health, so please save yourself the trouble and only open up with people you genuinely trust and feel safe talking to!

You're not alone, but please don't let dangerous people take advantage of you when you're at a bad spot

3. Keep an eye on your followers, especially if your profiles are public. There are always some things to look out for to make sure your followers aren't antis pretending to be proshippers

According to my personal experience, here's some red flags to look out for:

A.Antis think that the word proship means problematic ship, so they'll refer to pairings as "a proship"

Most proshippers dislike this terminology because it comes from an incorrect definition and usually avoid it

B. TikTok antis specifically come up and use a lot of emoji combos, creating meanings for them and usually adding one or two combos that are actually known to proshippers, along with some never seen before

A lot of the time they use it to identify themselves, a sign that means "I'm not actually a proshipper, just baiting"

I've also seen antis use the clover emoji in combos, inspired by the "clovergender/cloversexual" scam that 4channers came up with, to make it seem like the LGBTQ+ community was welcoming to offending pedophiles. Antis do this because they assimilate the proship label with problematic ships, mostly age gaps/underage content

C. Their account is brand new but they already follow a lot of proshippers. This is usually because they'll follow proshippers who've been posted on a blocklist, usually in the exact order that they've been listed too

If they're on Tumblr, they'll usually keep the people they follow public, so that other antis can find and harass those proshippers

D. Keep an eye on their follow list. Like stated above, they'll usually keep it public and 9 times out of 10 there will be an out of place antiship account, it's most likely their main profile/account/blog

E. They'll use their usual buzzwords on their own posts

For example, if they're trying to mimic a proselfship account they'll post pictures of underage characters and caption it things like "omg i'm such a pedo" and tag their post with proship related tags

Of course this doesn't apply to everyone, so it's always important to take context into consideration, as well as how many of these red flags may apply.

And lastly, please remember that the block button is your friend.

If someone's interacting with you and something about them seems/feels off, block and move on

[sweaterkittensahoy]

Hey, you wanna crochet a pencil skirt? I got a tutorial for you!

Years ago, I made a video tutorial for making a pencil skirt. It ended up on the front page of ravelry, which was fucking wild. 

Anyway, time has passed, I’ve kept making pencil skirts, and now I’m here with what we’ll call Tutorial 2.0. Let’s get to it: 

Supplies:

Yarn

Hook

Clear Elastic Cord or woven belting

Buttons or Zipper

Step 1: Measuring

Measure the following things: 

Your waist.

The widest part of your hips.

The length between your waist and the widest part of your hips. 

For example measurements, I will use my own:

Waist: 33”

Hips: 43”

Length between: 8”

Step 2: Gauge swatch

A gauge swatch will help you accurately size your skirt. Work a gauge swatch of ten stitches across and ten rows. You can use any stitch you want for your skirt, but I tend to use single crochet for the waistband and double crochet for the body of the skirt. When I do a gauge swatch, I work it in double crochet since that is what I use for the skirt body. 

Write down your number of stitches per inch, and the number of rows per inch. 

For our example, let’s say I get 4 stitches per inch and 2 rows per inch. 

Step 3: Make the waistband

Crochet a chain to the same length as your waist measurement. Work in single crochet rows until the waistband is 1 inch tall. You can work clear elastic cord on the wrong side of the rows to add some stretch to your waistband. You can also work the waistband without elastic and use belting at the end to help hold the skirt in place. I have an example of belting in this video.

Step 4: Start the body of the skirt

Once you have the waistband 1-inch tall, you can start the body of the skirt by completing a row in pattern stitch. Once you’ve done that, wrap the waistband where you want it to sit, with the open ends at the back. 

Step 5: Add increases

This pencil skirt uses raglan increases. There will be four points on the skirt where you will always increase. You will work 3 stitches into each increase, always placing the next increase in the second stitch of a previous increase. 

These increases should shape close to your body to give you the classic pencil skirt fit. For best results, place increases in the same places on either side of the skirt. Line them up with the front curve and back curve of your leg (the green line is the leg). 

I find it easiest to mark one side of the skirt, then simply count over from the other end the same number of stitches for both increases on the other side. 

Step 6: Let’s math it up!

To make sure your skirt’s gonna curve correctly, you need to be sure you can hit the last round of increases you need within the length you have between your waist and your hips. As I mentioned earlier, my waist is 33” and my hips are 43” with an 8” length between. I get 2 rows per inch and 4 stitches per inch. 

First, I need to know how many stitches I will need to add to my starting count:

33 (waist measurement) x 4 (stitches per inch) = 132 stitches

43 (hip measurement) x 4 (stitches per inch) = 172 stitches

172 - 132 = 40 stitches

Second, I need to figure out how many sets of increases I need to do to add those 40 stitches. On every row I increase, I add 8 stitches. 

40 / 8 = 5 rows of increases.

Third, I need figure out how many rows I have to work to reach the full 8 inches between my waist and the widest part of my hips. I know my waistband is 1 inch. I know the one row of pattern stitch I’ve completed for the skirt body is ½”.

8 inches (total length between waist and hips) - 1-½” (amount of skirt already worked) = 6-½” to work. 

I get 2 rows per inch.

2 x 6 = 12 rows

And then 1 more row for the other ½”. So, that’s 13 rows I need to work, but I only need 5 rows of increases. This means that I can work increase rows, then work a row or two even. This will keep the curve of the skirt smooth. The increase pattern may look like this:

Row 2 of skirt body: Increase

Row 3: work even

Row 4: work even

Row 5: Increase

Row 6: work even

Row 7: Increase

Row 8: work even

Row 9: work even

Row 10: Increase

Row 11: work even

Row 12: Increase

Row 13: work even

I do recommend working one row even between each increase row. That is 100% a personal preference.

Step 7: Join and work in rounds!

After you’ve completed the final increase round, you can join to the first stitch of the row and work in rounds for the rest of the skirt. This will let you try it on as you add length, so you can see how it’s building. When it’s the final length you want, fasten off. 

Step 7: Waist and fastenings. 

If you carried elastic cord on the back of the waistband when you worked the waistband, you can either add a zipper or buttons, depending on what you’d prefer. I like zippers just because I’m bad at buttonholes.

If you did not carry elastic, you can either sew in a strip, or you can use belting to create a stronger waistband that will keep its shape over time. If you choose to use a zipper with the belting, I recommend putting the belting in first because then it can act as extra support for the top of the zipper. 

Once you’ve finished off that way, you’re good to go. I bet you look great!

Final notes: 

If you need more than 8 increases per increase row to get your skirt the right hip measurement at the correct point in your hip, you can add more increases. Here’s an example:

If you want a pencil skirt that is a big snugger in the butt, work an inch without increases, then complete decreases in the same spots you had previously been increasing (You’ll decrease over 3 stitches for each decrease to match your increase count). Work a row or two even, try on, and then decrease again if you want to. Repeat as much as you’d like to get a very close fit. 

If you keep working increases, you’ll get an A-line skirt. You can still join at the end of the final increase you need to hit your hip width and work in rounds after that.

[insanelyadd]

The Collector's Hat Sewing Pattern and Tutorial

Image of the pattern I made with measurements:

As a little heads up to people with big/small heads and/or more voluminous hair, this was based on measuring my own head which has a circumference of 22 inches which is dead on the average and my hair is completely straight and relatively flat. You may need to do some adjustments of these measurements because the final fit is very fitted, in that it can be easily put on and taken off but does not fall off on it's own under typical circumstances.*

This pattern is meant for knit or other stretch fabrics, I did not make a completed version with woven or stiffer fabrics, so quality may vary depending on the material you select. I recommend knits.

If you are new to sewing or this is one of your first projects you are doing without a physical pattern, I recommend following the given measurements and drawing it out on some type of paper first and then using that as reference for yourself. I am an outlier when it comes to not making patterns and drawing the shape of what I want out onto the fabric directly, and you shouldn't follow my horrible example. This hat is actually the first time I've even made a muslin prototype.

When you are going to cut out the pieces you need to make sure, like double and triple check, that if you were to lay them pattern/top side up, that they would mirror each other like in the above picture. If you don't then you'll have two lefts or two rights.

The first actual step for sewing is taking the straight lines from the V shaped notch in the top of the hat, and lining them up by folding the piece in half so the patterned/top of the fabric is on the inside of the fold, like in the picture above. You do this on one half at a time. When they are lined up sew them with a straight line stitch a 1/4 inch (1/2 cm) in from the cut, starting at the fold towards the top of the hat.

After that you want to lay them pattern to pattern, and pin them into place to make sure it's aligned properly on both sides. To reduce bulk I recommend making the excess fabric from the darts (the V cut-out) point in opposite directions, as shown in the above picture.

After you've sewn the sides together there is an optional step that I did to make sure the seam lies flat on the top of your head. I opted to sew both sides down onto the blue half of my hat because my machine was being picky and skipping stitches on they grey fabric if there was no blue fabric as well (I got around this on the hem by inserting thin pieces from the blue's selvage into the seam). But if your machine isn't being picky or you are hand sewing this, then you could split the excess and sew them down onto their corresponding half. Example above, as usual.

Optional step that MUST go here. If you are attaching a ribbon, or lace for a trim to edge you have to do it now. I do not recommend this step to beginners. I recommend sewing it down while rolling the edge to create the hem, and then securing the other side of the ribbon/lace further into the piece because this guarantees a better placement and straighter lines. If you are doing this step along solely the bottom or front edges then let the lace/ribbon stick out further than the edge of the fabric, so you can fold it under the hem.

The final required step is to hem it, just fold what remains of the raw edge and sew it down.

Final optional step is for adding little trinkets. I added trinkets to the front corners and the floppy bit in the back like the Archivists are depicted as having. I used embroidery thread and slid the needle to go between the seams and tied it off on the inside. If your trinkets are not detachable, like the little stars on my hat, you need to thread the needle through the ring before putting it back into the hat and tying off the thread. Thinner cord or thin ribbon could work as well.

*I actually just did some tests and I have to be tilted further back than lying flat on my back for it to fall off. I was able to bend over and look through my knees and it didn't fall off. I tested it's wind resistance against my two strongest fans and neither could knock it off my head even when I shook it. So I think it will stay in place just shy of someone pointing a leaf blower at you.

Enjoy these pictures of the finished product, including a glamor shot of me wearing it backwards while I fumble with my phone for a picture.

[good-beans]

Concept that just popped into my head: Milgram characters doing "get ready with me" videos

Aw, this was so fun!! I always love your hc style of normal au/everyone's chilling, and tried to go the same route -- it was so cute to think about :D

Haruka: Puts on his outfit for the day and explains everything in great detail. He has lots of comfortable items and fun colors. At the very end he speaks off-camera and you realize Muu was standing there cheering him on the whole time. He gets a lot of encouraging comments, and Muu and Fuuta keep an eye on the account to delete any nasty ones that may come in.

Yuno: Shows her outfit, makeup, nails, and bag she’s taking with her. She tries out a variety of styles (not just sticking to the more feminine looks we see in canon). She gives a bit of a tutorial and tips as well as showing things off. Has a main account for her daytime outfits, and a more private one for her nighttime looks. Mahiru is the only one aware of the latter account.

Fuuta: Layers. Lots of layers. There will be three sweatshirts laid out in front of him and you wonder which he’s going to choose before realizing he’s putting them all on. He focuses most on his sneakers and sportswear. He plays loud music over the videos, not knowing what to say. Has gotten into comment-section arguments over those yellow socks.

Muu: Also does a full look at her appearance: nails, accessories, etc. She mentions where you can buy everything, and it’s unclear whether she was sponsored by these brands or is just excited to talk about them. (Whether they’re actually together or not,) she’ll have Haruka on as a guest a lot to show off couple’s outfit ideas. She definitely has the biggest following, and loves recommending Haruka and the others’ accounts.  

Shidou: He doesn’t really know what he’s doing, but his account is getting tons of views so the others keep encouraging him to make videos. He’s just glad to be connecting with the other prisoners as they show him how to do it. He dresses in a mix of the sleek patterned shirts and dad fits, and both types of videos are equally popular. 

Mahiru: None of the serious-faced flirts or little pouty faces – it’s all smiles for her. Every video is basically a full tutorial – she has captions and a voiceover giving commentary on everything. She has the next biggest following, and interacts constantly. She loves getting questions “what should I wear on an x type date?” “How do I dress to impress x type of person?” because she always comes up with the perfect outfit to help. 

Kazui: A bit confused as well, though he does know a lot about style. His interro question makes it seem like he wanted kids – I think he’d really get into the account as one of those “Dad How Do I” types. He talks about matching things, clothes upkeep, shaving/hairstyling. 

Amane: Also wouldn’t have made the videos without prompting from the others, but enjoys it a lot. She usually talks about practical things instead of “vain” fashion: she’s excited to show off a new raincoat, sturdy shoes, useful pockets, etc. Over time, she leans into outfits that are more cute and colorful, gaining confidence in them. 

Mikoto: He started the account as something for one of his design classes, and got really into it. He likes to challenge himself with unique styles and clothing articles, making pretty much anything work. He keeps everything professional in case an employer/coworker sees, but isn’t afraid to add some flirting and flaunting in there. If he’s open about his plurality, he’ll have some special videos, “choosing an outfit for John today!”

Kotoko: Like Amane, she’s more excited about practical outfits. She’ll show off clothes that have good flexibility, places to store and conceal objects, and heavy duty materials. She’ll rate jackets, boots, and other “military-grade” things for what has worked best for her. She’s very attentive to the accounts that follow her – she does full background checks to make sure her info is being used for justice, not more crime. Mahiru convinces her to do a special where she puts all her piercings in and talks about why she chose them/what they mean.

Es: Experiments with a lot of new styles, trying to figure out what they like. They also just play music in the back, not having much to say about each outfit. They'd rather focus on their series of dressing-up-Jackalope videos, much to his dismay...

[babyspacebatclone]

Ok, I watch a ton of clay creation slash diorama creators on YouTube.

And I really, really need to share three of the most mind blowing artists with you all.

Because I just saw one that completely broke me (affectionate) and realized to be honest I need to show two others before I settle on “Most insane amount of detail imaginable.”

First, the most recent vid.

TW: Zombie shark, so dni if either of those concepts are bad for you, but I cannot stress enough how much skill and talent and detail!!!!!!! (spoiler, I’ve never seen this technique with lights before and it’s amazing)

Second, for some whimsy, a Minecraft miniature diorama. That’s actually a tutorial for the free patterns they made if you have the time/energy/patience to make one yourself!!!!

(Actually go on to YouTube and use CC for subtitles so you can follow along, but the point stands)

Lastly, a 2-parter, this is just presented without comment. Largely because my jaw is still dropped and how gorgeous these four (four!!!) pieces are!!!!

Extra links below cut.

wAw Creator:

WUZU clay’s YouTube:

The Google Drive with free printable patterns for making two (at time of posting) Minecraft inspired dioramas:

Thalasso hobby’s YouTube:

[paleopinesofficial]

Patch Notes!!

BIG UPDATES

Added Sarcosuchus, along with two new dreamstones.

Memory optimizations, particularly when building pens.

More species are now eligible to spawn after the Triassea Picnic.

Additional updates under the cut!

Fixed small dinos lagging behind when following by spending too long looking for treasure after the player had moved on.

Fixed Lucky sometimes feeling sad after completing the main quest.

Fixed timing of Desmatosuchus friend call notes.

Fixed Triassea Picnic spawns interfering with Valley Triceratops spawns.

You can no longer sell Avery’s hubs before completing the relevant quest. Missing hubs will be restored for free in existing saves.

Fixed loading older saves where items were dropped out of bounds and couldn’t be reached.

Fixed Coelophysis animation when interacting with a ball.

Fixed a soft lock when filling water using the medium pond.

Improved Troodon petting animation.

Fixed animation desyncs when riding Megalosaurus or Postosuchus.

Fixed harvest quantity/quality boost icons when mounted - these icons now appear to indicate that the boosts are active when harvesting using a dino.

Freya can now craft sandstone walls when reaching ‘close friend’ with her.

Fixed stats incorrectly displaying 6 total Poppins rather than 5.

Possible fix for the “Why Can’t I Hold All These Dinos?” achievement (Xbox only).

Fixed incorrect coloring of a Deinonychus pattern (Xbox One/PS4/Switch only).

Fixed the yellow Ariacotta cushion requiring red cloth to craft.

Reduced recipe cook chance when adding the correct quantities of all required ingredients, but also extra ingredients which aren’t part of the recipe. This fixes recipes which extend another recipe, such as Pasta Carnotaura.

Fixed dinos freezing when harvesting wild collectables with less than 15 stamina.

Removed floating mushrooms in Dapplewood (Switch only).

Fixed ‘Treasure’ T. rex color being lost when loading pre-1.3 save data. Unfortunately, save data loaded in 1.3.0-1.3.5 and re-saved cannot be recovered.

Fixed a softlock after entering a blank player name (Xbox only).

The watering tutorial will no longer be triggered without enough stamina to complete it.

[ovytia-art]

How I do my stain glass style- A tutorial

Disclaimer: Other people may have different approaches to this style, this is just an explanation of my process etc

Sketching:

Use big shapes! And also break them into smaller ones! I would recommend following along the contours of shapes when you break up them up. This helps show form, like in the flowing trails

Silhouette! Make sure you have strong and easy to read silhouettes so that all your different elements don’t get lost. Because of this I usually draw characters front facing or in profile

Symmetry! Idk how to explain why I like to use a lot of symmetry when I do stain glass pieces, but it is great for ✨Vibes✨

Repeating patterns! I tried to incorporate a lot of straight, perpendicular lines in the sky. I also frequently do ‘halos’ or circles broken up by radiating lines

Different sized shapes! Try not to make everything too uniform in size, having variety helps create visual interest

Lining:

Smooth, solid lines! This one’s the most important, I would recommend turning up the ‘streamline’ setting or turning on lazy mouse

Different line widths! You don’t have to do a lot of line weight or any at all, but I like to make my lines thinner the smaller the shape. I also make the outline of characters thicker to help make them pop from the background

Colours:

This is pretty straight forward, but here’s a tip to get a lot of different colours without having to change your brush colour. Colour dynamics! This is a setting most drawing programs have under brush settings. But it basically allows each stroke to be a different colour within a range of the colour you have selected.

Use highly saturated colours! This is especially important if you plan to make transparent stickers.

Overlays and textures! This one is optional, but I always use it since I like to break up my solid colours

Gradients! These help add more colour break up and variety

Miscellaneous tips:

Look at real stain glass art for ideas on composition and colours

If you’re drawing a character and are having trouble, the afk arena art style is also excellent inspiration(I look at it a lot for hands lol)

Paper cut art/kirigami is another good source for inspiration

Sometimes simple is better, if you’re trying to break up a shape and it’s just not working, it might be better to not break it up or to at least have bigger pieces. This also applies to colours

Contrast! Not only in colours but in lines and shapes too.

Straight edges and arcs are your best friend. Use them where you can