#scythe board game

[games-franco]

[haveyouplayedthisirlgame-poll]

Scythe is an engine-building game set in an alternate-history 1920s eastern europe. Players control factions that produce resources, develop economic infrastructure, and build dieselpunk mechas to control territory and engage in combat.

[telamonz]

rifle scythe ( phighting! ) stimboard for myself

☠︎︎ - with cowboy-related gifs and such ☠︎︎ - i'll probably remake this ☠︎︎ - no nsfw interaction please ! ☠︎︎ | 🏜 | ☠︎︎ 🏜 | ☠︎︎ | 🏜 ☠︎︎ | 🏜 | ☠︎︎

[drewnsberg-ext]

Scythe (board game). Polania Republic, Anna & Wojtek, mechs.

[gameofboards]

*gasps* it's my lucky day!

Ahh nevermind.

[clankhead]

Skeleton

Avalon Hill

Starting off the Heroquest villains collection with the best part about the game:

Boney Boys

[kithpendragon]

My friend @eaglehorn has asked me to help her make some already-awesome game pieces even more exciting! We'll be painting this tray of minis together and I figured I'd take the opportunity to post a step-by-step of the process for anybody who wants to personalize their own board game minis for the first time. We'll keep everything beginner-friendly and bring all these models to a tabletop standard with lots of photos along the way. I'll tag all the posts in this series #KP2023SCY to make them easy to find, and I'll create an Index post that links to all of the others when the series concludes. If there's a part of the process you'd like to see specifically, hit me up in the comments and I'll do my best to cover that topic!

Preparing to Paint

These are from Scythe, and look at all those rivets! These are beautifully sculpted and molded figures with no obvious mold lines, so we can skip the step where we use an old hobby knife or sandpaper to grind away the extra plastic that we don't want.

The packaging also protected them well during shipping, so the deformations are few and slight. We could straighten out any badly bent parts if we needed by applying some heat. I use some hot water - about 50C (100F) is hot enough to soften the plastic but not so hot as to burn the skin. Hold the bent part in the water for 20-30 seconds, then bend it just slightly past where you want it. I find most minis spring back slightly over the first few days after this treatment. You'll need to hold the part in place as it cools, and this bit can be made faster with some cold water if you like.

Next, I give all the figures a bath in cool soapy water followed by a rinse in clean water and a light scrub with some isopropyl alcohol. I use dishwashing soap because it gives a very clean rinse. We're making sure we get any hand oils, dirt, plastic dust, and left over manufacturing residues off of the surface. This helps the paint to stick better and keeps the finished minis looking amazing for much longer.

Next step: Priming (goes live 2023NOV21)

[galgannet]

Миниатюры для Серпа. Оказалось красить шерстку очень даже приятно.) 

[thefandomentals]

If you like area control games all about friendship and pies, then My Little Scythe, a spinoff of modern classic Scythe, is the game for you!

[retrogamer2099]

Retro_G is back with another Doom SnapMaps art cover! Now that Templar Knight has crushed the demon's ritual attempt he returns to Mars facility to destroy the legions final attempt at sacrifice to the pits of hell. Like comment and Subscribe! THX.

[games-franco]

Played Scythe for the first time!

I can’t recommend it enough 😁👌🏼

[meepleflix]

Scythe: Invaders From Within

A fictional documentary inspired by the Scythe universe!

let me know what you think!

[drewnsberg-ext]

Scythe (board game). Rusviet Union, Olga Romanova & Changa, mechs.

[goldenrods]

also currently playing Scythe Automa

[unpretty]

humble bundle has a bundle of digital board games to benefit the world wildlife fund! the tiers are

$7 for root, scythe, and sagrada

$10 adds munchkin and wingspan

$15 adds everdell and terraforming mars

$18 gets the full bundle with dune:imperium and quilts and cats of calico

here's my affiliate link if you're interested, my partner already got the small bundle but i'm very tempted by the full bundle tbqh

[kithpendragon]

This is part of a series explaining the step-by-step process I use to enhance a set of minis that come with a board game. The whole series is tagged #KP2023SCY to make it easier to find.

Priming

Most minis are molded or printed from plastic, metal, and resin. All these are non-porous materials that, when very clean, should take a coat of paint without too much trouble. Especially with plastics, priming isn't strictly necessary. So why do we prime?

For me, priming does three things. First, it locks in that clean-enough-to-paint surface under a coat of paint that's designed to take more coats easily. Second, it opaquely covers up the original color of the mini, affording me a bit more control over the final product. Finally, it provides an opportunity to examine the details of the sculpt more easily due to Zenithal Highlighting. More on that in a minute.

I prime with a rattle can from the hardware store, which gives me perfectly serviceable results without too much work or cost. If you like, you can buy primer sold specifically for minis for about five to ten times the price of the hardware store stuff. The purpose-made primers are said to be designed with smaller pigments and spray more smoothly. If you happen to own an air brush, you can prime with that for much more control.

When priming with a rattle can, I start with a row of minis stuck to my trusty Priming Stick with some blue tack.

I take this and my paint outside (because fumes), and carefully spray the group black from as many angles as it takes to get full coverage.

You can stop here if you like, and often I do. Having the whole figure painted black allows for very fine control over the lighting when it comes time for that. But priming is also an opportunity for Zenithal Highlighting. By lightly spraying the mini with white primer from above you can approximate lighting as though the figure is outside, and bring out the details so you can more easily plan your painting.

I've elected to paint one faction at a time because that's what fits nicely on my stick. I let each one dry to the touch (it should say on the can how long that takes) before moving on.

With all the figures painted, I'll leave them to dry fully. Ideally that means "until I can't smell the paint anymore" and that depends on airflow, humidity, temperature, and the secrets of the universe. Practically, you can usually get away with painting on top of the primer after a couple of hours. A good middle ground here tends to be "the next day".

Next: Materials and Equipment (probably)