#tutorial with pictures

[leo-fie]

How to make tablets for tablet weaving

You'll need: Playing cards, scissors, punch, pencil, permanent marker in 2 different colours.

Why playing cards specifically? Because they are made to be handled. Their edges don't fray, even the cheapest ones. These were like 2€ for 32, the rest was stuff I already had lying around, making it a very cheap project. Also they make it very easy to divide a pattern into groups of 4.

Step 1: Square your cards by laying another one on top perpendicularly and mark with a pencil (pen used for visibiliy).

Step 2: Cut and round the edges (it's fine, these people are royalty). I cut a little inside the line here because the pen drew a smidge to the side.

Step 3: Punch holes in the corners. First try on a spare piece of paper to figure out how far you have to hold it in to get the hole where you need it to be. It doesn't have to be 100% accurate, but close enough. I built myself a little jig to hold the card out of the cut off bit. When the thingy touches the punch I know the hole is gonna be where I want it.

Step 4: Mark two opposite corners with permanent marker on both sides. This is technically not necessary, but very useful. Also mark the same corners on all the cards for aesthetic.

Congratulations, you have tablets now! How many do you need? 32 is enough for most patterns you'll find on pinterest, but there are patterns with over 90. So make a couple more!

[vincentbriggs]

Dear person on the bus this morning with the Dracula quote tattoo whose phone was open to my youtube channel, sorry I pretended not to notice and also was too shy to say hello

[heedzhee-art]

some hand references i found on xwitter. feel free to practice

[seamsterslocal]

summer binder picture tutorial

this is the third binder ive made for myself recently and the first one i’m writing up. it’s designed to do a few things: 1) allow me to put it on by myself without dislocating my shoulders 2) allow me to breathe well enough to partake in normal activity 3) be cool enough to wear throughout a muggy 90-100F summer 4) not constrict my ribs in a way that aggravates my lack of connective tissue and causes intense pain.

this has become necessary even though i had top surgery many years ago, because when i had it i was extremely skinny and since then i’ve increased in size by about 50%. this has been really fucking good for my health in every single way* except that when my chest is squishy or moves at all it’s So Goddamn Triggering for me. but also since ive had top surgery ive developed and/or been made away of a plethora of chronic conditions that make every single commercially available binding option medically impossible. unbound, my chest is pretty much what you’d expect for a chubby cis guy but venturing out into the world in just a tshirt no longer works for me

*anyone who badmouths weight gain or fat bodies in the notes WILL be blocked

under the cut are a bunch of process pictures and explanations of what they all mean:

first i’ll give you a look at the pieces and measurements:

most of the seams are sewn in this picture and one half is turned inside out, allowing you to see both the finished dimensions (right) and the placement of the fusible horsehair canvas that gives this lil scrap of linen any structure at all (left)

to get your chest measurement, you’re gonna have to do some math:

first measure above and below what you want to bind. average these numbers. mine are something like 32 and 34, which average to 33. subtract a few inches--this is to allow the air movement between the laces at center front and back, critical in the summertime. i deleted 3 inches bc i like that number but you can go bigger if you want. the more inches you subtract here, the more youll be able to ratchet all your chest material down later, but at the same time you need to leave enough fabric for a sturdy garment. let’s say a range of 2-6 inches/5-15cm. by taking your measurements this way, you’re essentially measuring the chest you would like to have. that + the horsehair canvas work together to compress any squishy tissue/force anything that doesnt compress up and to the outside (basically into the armpit/lower shoulder--the chest might stick out but it will give a very puffed chest captain america pectoral silhouette)

you can also see how ive clipped my curves and pre-drilled my lacing holes. i used the marlin spike on my knife to open up the holes on the interfacing side, mainly as a way of marking them. this worked well bc the interfacing’s glue kept the linen from raveling

this is the same stage but looking at the non-interfaced grey linen/cotton blend (the black is some 100% linen from my cabbage stash). you can see ive broken the solar-plexus-to-back measurement up into a bunch of pieces to save on fabric but that’s not necessary. my original pattern was just two pieces (front and back) and chopping the straps into thirds on both sides was aesthetic

in the following picture you can really see how this is really just overgrown regency stays:

i thought about doing side lacing but didn’t think that would be comfortable for me. on the front, the side seam allowance was pressed inwards before turning to create a finished looking slot. on the back the side seam is left unfinished with an extra wide seam allowance, and is inserted into that slot.

here’s a closeup on it pinned in place (you can adjust the angle of the side seam and the fit during this pinning stage):

that side seam was just topstitched in place once i had the fit how i liked it, and the armhole was reinforced with more topstitching

alright, time for eyelets: first, you can see how well the marking worked:

next, two rows of basted eyelets (left), one row of eyelets sewn with a doubled and waxed cotton thread (center right), and one row of eyelets opened and stainless steel rings placed (right).

next time i’m going to mark the eyelets same as i did above, but do this step differently--i’ll mark and baste the steel rings in place BEFORE widening the eyelets. this is bc i had a lot of problems keeping the eyelets on center

eyelets half done on this one! on the left are eyelets sewn with doubled and waxed cotton thread and on the right eyelets sewn with quadrupled and waxed thread. the center is basting again. i was able to force the holes back in line while sewing the eyelets but it was kinda annoying. adding a second picture that doesnt have great focus but hopefully shows how that process worked and shows the spike clearly

i ended up using this white cotton thread because it’s stronger than my black cotton thread (which the rest of it is sewn with). [eta: after this was first posted, i pressed the whole thing heavily, which effectively de-waxed the thread, and i dyed the whole thing a medium charcoal grey, the thread blends in perfectly on the lighter side and isn’t such a sore thumb on the darker side]

bonus: the piecing layout for that little piece of strap. the whole light gray half of the binder was made from 1/2 of one of the legs i cut off some linen suit pants to make slutty camping shorts last year and i really really didn’t want to break into any of the other three halves for this garment--i have Plans for it

overall the fit of this is incredible. it DOESNT hurt my ribs which every zip-up garment ive been able to find (and it is difficult) does due to really thick elastic at the base. it doesnt aggravate my sensory issues with the synthetic fibers that every commercial option is made of. i can walk up a hill or stairs, or go to pt, without getting too out of breath. i can eat with it tight, or loosen the front easily and without taking it off to make eating easier and less nausea-inducing. it is reversible!

best of all the lacing at the back gives the garment enough movement for me to get it on without dislocating, and the interfacing and steel rings give it structure once it’s on. the shaping comes only from fusible horsehair linen canvas and stainless steel rings like youd use for chainmail, there’s no boning at all, which makes it very quick to sew (except the eyelets, but metal grommets would be sturdy and quick provided theyre of good quality)

there’s a small amount of gaping on the outside of the shoulder strap, which i plan on fixing with a tiny tiny dart in the armpit, i want to add pockets to tuck the laces into, and i need a better lace for the back, but it’s completely wearable in time for the 90 weather next week which is all i wanted. i’ll do a reblog when it’s perfectly finished with an update on the fit but for now it is done enough 

the little ridge where it doesnt lay flat against the shoulder is most visible with just a single t shirt over it. with a flannel or a sweater, it disappears, and by itself, it’s hidden in movement

eta: after dyeing this, i relaced it a bit looser in the back and that gape mainly disappeared. ive decided to leave it in instead of smoothing it with a dart because the loose fabric gives space for my chest to expand when breathing and shapes my silhouette in a way that emphasizes my shoulders

[iguessricciardo]

[giantratbf]

i was asked for a glitter tutorial a couple of times so here it is <3 (i work in krita btw)

if i had to break it down step-by-step:

apply regular shading

add the glitter texture. i do it by turning the scatter feature on

3. add color with a gradient map

4. add reflected light. i usually go with blue because it's a good fit for my over-all very pink palettes

5. and in general: look at reference. glitter looks and feels very unreal and magical but it all exists irl and has been documented in all shapes, materials and lighting

1 2 3 4

that's all thank u <33

[thebramblewood]

I thought it might be fun to do a little behind the scenes for the last story post! You guys might be surprised how little actual editing was involved. I mainly just crop, add brightness and saturation, clean up any small bits of clipping or weirdness that bother me, and then add captions! Do you want to know what actually took me the longest?

This hair had some problem areas that showed up in live mode but not CAS. It's such a tiny thing, but it annoyed me, so I had to touch it up in nearly every screenshot. Luckily, the darkness of her hair means I didn't have to do a perfect job.

The effects were all done in-game. Lilith has the alluring visage vampire perk, which creates the red haze and mind control spiral. Unfortunately, Helena crossed her path too closely, and rather than set the shot up again I used the clone brush in Photoshop to edit out the effects around her head (vampires who can successfully do mind control on other vampires are exceedingly rare). By the way, I later figured out a quick and dirty method for dispelling unwanted visual effects on a Sim is to remove buffs in MCCC.

As I've mentioned, I had to shoot the attack scene twice. The first attempt was too dark, the location wasn't very visually interesting, I was in an area of San My where I had less camera control, and I used the Effects Player, which ended up being less eye-catching (hey, sometimes vanilla is the best option!). They would have worked to get the point across, but I think you can really see how I learned and improved upon my vision!

These comparison shots are all uncropped and unedited, by the way. Reshade/Relight truly does the heavy lifting. I've also gotten better at finding an angle I like and sticking with it, even if that's only because I don't want to adjust Relight all over again, lol! Speaking of angles, that last shot was done using the Dutch angle trick I learned in this tutorial by @surely-sims! First-person camera is actually super useful for storytelling. If you don't already know about this head-turning trick, it'll change your life. It comes in clutch for changing the eye line of a posed Sim since I'm not always great at getting that right in Blender.

Anyway, I don't know if anyone will find this super helpful or interesting, but I'm always open to questions about taking and editing screenshots, even though I feel like most of what I know has just been absorbed through osmosis and trial and error!

[izel-scribbles]

@percymawce-arts asked about my traditional art drawing process, so here goes! this is my oc jenna btw

sketch first

usually i use colored pencil, but sometimes i use a normal one

here i started doing the background with colored pencil, and blended markers into it

the trick with alcohol markers is to layer them on top of each other quickly, so that the colors bleed together if you want them blended

colored pencil details

blocking in colors on her shirt with colored pencil

did a kind of outline with purple

colored the jeans with two different shades of blue, the lighter first and then darker lines on top

two shades of dark gray for her shirt

here i made the shirt brighter with different markers + started penciling in her hair

with colored pencils, i usually color hair from the lightest colors to the darkest, but it really depends

this is the finished drawing! i added the dirt stains with colored pencil.

hopefully this helped :D the full piece can be found here

[wombywoo]

Just a collection of work-in-progress tutorials from my artworks over the years 🙆‍♀️ For 'educational purposes' only ;))))))

Hope that cleared a few things up 💁‍♀️💁‍♀️💁‍♀️

[things-erin-likes]

I know this is wildly different from my usual art posts BUT I have wanted to make it for a long, long time, because I love sharing any knowledge that might help someone else. SO...

If you (A) don't want to spend more than 1 minute on your face routine, (B) don't want to completely change what your face structure looks like with makeup to have a consistent skin appearance and/or (C) have cystic/nodal/regular acne that just doesn't go away no matter what people tell you to do,

then I give to you:

My One Single Product 1 Minute Makeup Tutorial For People Who Don't Wear Makeup

In which I bravely show you my face to illustrate

Before and after on one of my "best" skin days:

It's very likely this is common knowledge for a lot of people BUT I wish I had known it when I was in my teens and struggling with a severe skin condition I thought would eventually go away and never did.

[TLDR: It's a concealer stick that matches your skin]

No, having a skin condition doesn't mean you need to cover it. However, that doesn't mean it can't still hurt your self image, confidence, and relationships with people who give you unsolicited comments on it (because you want to throw them out the window).

SO HERE'S WHAT YOU NEED:

A concealer stick, my preference being Covergirl's CG Smoothers. They're non-comodogenic and somehow seem to help with my acne, maybe just because covering it helps me not pick at it.

Now, I am the pastiest, whitest shade of white, so I use two shades: "Fair" for my face, which has more of a pink hue, and "Neutralizer" (wheeze) for my neck because it gets even less sun than my face, and is both paler and less pink.

You might be able to get along just fine with one tone if you don't get acne on your neck and chest or have a more even skin tone, but the most important thing is to get the shade that matches your skin tone as close as possible.

To do this, either look in a mirror in the most natural light you can find and hold up your hands and arms until you find a spot that matches your face the closest, then compare the makeup in the store to this. OR.... Just bring a little mirror with you to the store.

STEPS:

1. Start with a clean face. (Wipe your face with a wet cloth if you haven't washed your face already that day)

Optional step 2. Put on a little moisturizer if your skin dries out and flakes, like mine does. I'm allergic to my cats so I use a medicated cream in place of moisturizer lmao

3. Swipe the concealer directly onto red spots, scabs, or bumps, and rub it in with your finger making a soft halo that blends in with the rest of your skin.

...and that's it.

You don't have to do your whole face. You're only adjusting the parts that stands out so they blend in and leaving the rest alone. Some days I cover a few spots, other days it feels like my whole face.

It can't always completely everything, but it makes everything much less noticeable. The shape of scabs may still be there:

It won't cover freshly bleeding wounds well, either... But it will cover the red skin around it:

Like with any makeup, always remove it before you go to bed!!! With makeup remover or a cleanser! Cheap, unscented makeup wipes work great for me.

So yeah, I'm 30 and only just now started finally seeing improvement in my own skin because I did my own research and asked a doctor to try treatments for hormonal acne instead of all the antibiotic approaches, meaning I'm on spironolactone and thus also a mandatory birth control. But hey! It's something.

Having control over how my face looks helps my confidence and self image, like controlling how my hair or clothes look. I don't feel like I have to wear it any more than I don't have to wear my hair short, I just like it that way.

I also hope that this might be able to help guys too, or anyone else who feels like they're not "allowed" to wear makeup but still struggle with the look of their own skin, since the lack of any other product means you really don't look like you're "wearing makeup".

Anyway, long post over, time to flee 🏃‍♀️

[bigmammallama5]

Do you have any tips for taking photos of physical objects? I like making things, but taking photos of them is the worst :(

Sure! I also struggle with taking pictures of stuff, but I can give you two big suggestions (and I'll try to keep my explanation brief for now, but you are always welcome to come back and ask for clarification!). As always, these suggestions are not rules, so if it goes against what you know or have been taught or what works best for you, feel free to disregard it lol.

Lighting, and set-up (which I will roll camera angle into).

You don't need anything big and fancy to take nice pictures of what you make. You don't need a big DSLR camera or box lights or a crazy image processing program. You can take great pictures of your stuff right at home with things you already have. I know a lot of potters who take decent pictures of their work in a corner of their living room with a simple paper sweep (poster board), one directional light (one guy I know even uses just a lamp and points it towards his pots), and something to take pictures with whether that's your phone or a little point and shoot.

Lighting. A good rule of thumb is to not back-light your work as your primary light source*. Make sure your primary light source is in front and pointing at the thing you're trying to photograph. You can even kick it off to the side for a nice three-quarters effect! You CAN have some back-lighting as long as is is acting as your fill (secondary light source) OR if you're shooting outdoors. If you want to go for natural lighting, gray days are actually quite nice as they offer even lighting (though if you want that bright sun, go for it!). *That is not to say back-lit things are bad, just that they aren't necessarily going to show off your work unless it's designed to be that way.

Set-up. This can be as simple or as complex as you want it to be! Figure out how you want to shoot your work, and then figure out how to light the space. If you want something clean, create a light box. Use a box with a white/light gray sheet draped inside to make a contained space, or pick a corner of a room and either drape a sheet or use some poster board to make a little box you can easily put up and take down. If you want something that's more set up, I have actually used my work space as my backdrop. Show the tools you are using, maybe some material, and build a composition around your piece! That takes a little more effort but can be quite nice.

As for taking the actual picture, I have found that I personally like to have it slightly up at a shallow angle so it's not straight on or too high looking down on the piece. You can easily create an unflattering angle, but there are little nuances to taking pictures of those more extreme angles. It's just not what I'm interested in lol. Have your piece nice and centered at the angle you like, and make sure the camera is focusing on your work as much as possible and not the surrounding environment (I won't get into depth of field and all that, but that's worth keeping in mind). You can do that with some simple settings our technology has these days! (Also side note: if you are using your phone, clean the camera lens on your shirt first. It's crazy how easily that little thing can get dirty and give you smudgy looking photos lol)

I'll stop myself there, but hopefully these suggestions can help you feel more confident in taking pictures of your work! As always, feel free to ask more questions if you have any.

[onemoraine]

Everyday makeup ✨🎀

[hal-o-ween]

[ID: a nightcrawler lego minifigure built from pieces of a variety of other official lego pieces. he is holding two swords, and is on a stand built of semitransparent purple pieces to look like his teleportation. In the second picture, there is a piece behind him that looks like a puff of purple smoke. End ID]

Roommate built me a custom nightcrawler minifig :'3

[goobygnarp]

.

[b0ylik3r]

i just made a pak backpack btw :D

[lelianaslefthand]

my survival desert island base :D