#drafted pattern
Explore tagged Tumblr posts
Photo
summer binder picture tutorial
this is the third binder ive made for myself recently and the first one i’m writing up. it’s designed to do a few things: 1) allow me to put it on by myself without dislocating my shoulders 2) allow me to breathe well enough to partake in normal activity 3) be cool enough to wear throughout a muggy 90-100F summer 4) not constrict my ribs in a way that aggravates my lack of connective tissue and causes intense pain.
this has become necessary even though i had top surgery many years ago, because when i had it i was extremely skinny and since then i’ve increased in size by about 50%. this has been really fucking good for my health in every single way* except that when my chest is squishy or moves at all it’s So Goddamn Triggering for me. but also since ive had top surgery ive developed and/or been made away of a plethora of chronic conditions that make every single commercially available binding option medically impossible. unbound, my chest is pretty much what you’d expect for a chubby cis guy but venturing out into the world in just a tshirt no longer works for me
*anyone who badmouths weight gain or fat bodies in the notes WILL be blocked
under the cut are a bunch of process pictures and explanations of what they all mean:
first i’ll give you a look at the pieces and measurements:
most of the seams are sewn in this picture and one half is turned inside out, allowing you to see both the finished dimensions (right) and the placement of the fusible horsehair canvas that gives this lil scrap of linen any structure at all (left)
to get your chest measurement, you’re gonna have to do some math:
first measure above and below what you want to bind. average these numbers. mine are something like 32 and 34, which average to 33. subtract a few inches--this is to allow the air movement between the laces at center front and back, critical in the summertime. i deleted 3 inches bc i like that number but you can go bigger if you want. the more inches you subtract here, the more youll be able to ratchet all your chest material down later, but at the same time you need to leave enough fabric for a sturdy garment. let’s say a range of 2-6 inches/5-15cm. by taking your measurements this way, you’re essentially measuring the chest you would like to have. that + the horsehair canvas work together to compress any squishy tissue/force anything that doesnt compress up and to the outside (basically into the armpit/lower shoulder--the chest might stick out but it will give a very puffed chest captain america pectoral silhouette)
you can also see how ive clipped my curves and pre-drilled my lacing holes. i used the marlin spike on my knife to open up the holes on the interfacing side, mainly as a way of marking them. this worked well bc the interfacing’s glue kept the linen from raveling
this is the same stage but looking at the non-interfaced grey linen/cotton blend (the black is some 100% linen from my cabbage stash). you can see ive broken the solar-plexus-to-back measurement up into a bunch of pieces to save on fabric but that’s not necessary. my original pattern was just two pieces (front and back) and chopping the straps into thirds on both sides was aesthetic
in the following picture you can really see how this is really just overgrown regency stays:
i thought about doing side lacing but didn’t think that would be comfortable for me. on the front, the side seam allowance was pressed inwards before turning to create a finished looking slot. on the back the side seam is left unfinished with an extra wide seam allowance, and is inserted into that slot.
here’s a closeup on it pinned in place (you can adjust the angle of the side seam and the fit during this pinning stage):
that side seam was just topstitched in place once i had the fit how i liked it, and the armhole was reinforced with more topstitching
alright, time for eyelets: first, you can see how well the marking worked:
next, two rows of basted eyelets (left), one row of eyelets sewn with a doubled and waxed cotton thread (center right), and one row of eyelets opened and stainless steel rings placed (right).
next time i’m going to mark the eyelets same as i did above, but do this step differently--i’ll mark and baste the steel rings in place BEFORE widening the eyelets. this is bc i had a lot of problems keeping the eyelets on center
eyelets half done on this one! on the left are eyelets sewn with doubled and waxed cotton thread and on the right eyelets sewn with quadrupled and waxed thread. the center is basting again. i was able to force the holes back in line while sewing the eyelets but it was kinda annoying. adding a second picture that doesnt have great focus but hopefully shows how that process worked and shows the spike clearly
i ended up using this white cotton thread because it’s stronger than my black cotton thread (which the rest of it is sewn with). [eta: after this was first posted, i pressed the whole thing heavily, which effectively de-waxed the thread, and i dyed the whole thing a medium charcoal grey, the thread blends in perfectly on the lighter side and isn’t such a sore thumb on the darker side]
bonus: the piecing layout for that little piece of strap. the whole light gray half of the binder was made from 1/2 of one of the legs i cut off some linen suit pants to make slutty camping shorts last year and i really really didn’t want to break into any of the other three halves for this garment--i have Plans for it
overall the fit of this is incredible. it DOESNT hurt my ribs which every zip-up garment ive been able to find (and it is difficult) does due to really thick elastic at the base. it doesnt aggravate my sensory issues with the synthetic fibers that every commercial option is made of. i can walk up a hill or stairs, or go to pt, without getting too out of breath. i can eat with it tight, or loosen the front easily and without taking it off to make eating easier and less nausea-inducing. it is reversible!
best of all the lacing at the back gives the garment enough movement for me to get it on without dislocating, and the interfacing and steel rings give it structure once it’s on. the shaping comes only from fusible horsehair linen canvas and stainless steel rings like youd use for chainmail, there’s no boning at all, which makes it very quick to sew (except the eyelets, but metal grommets would be sturdy and quick provided theyre of good quality)
there’s a small amount of gaping on the outside of the shoulder strap, which i plan on fixing with a tiny tiny dart in the armpit, i want to add pockets to tuck the laces into, and i need a better lace for the back, but it’s completely wearable in time for the 90 weather next week which is all i wanted. i’ll do a reblog when it’s perfectly finished with an update on the fit but for now it is done enough
the little ridge where it doesnt lay flat against the shoulder is most visible with just a single t shirt over it. with a flannel or a sweater, it disappears, and by itself, it’s hidden in movement
eta: after dyeing this, i relaced it a bit looser in the back and that gape mainly disappeared. ive decided to leave it in instead of smoothing it with a dart because the loose fabric gives space for my chest to expand when breathing and shapes my silhouette in a way that emphasizes my shoulders
#sewing#trans#trans man#binding#body shaping#cotton#disability accommodations#physical#sensory#eyelets#fusible interfacing#historical fashion#regency#horsehair canvas#lacing#linen#lining#new build#drafted pattern#picture tutorial#piecing is contemporary too#stainless steel#stashbusting#stays#structured garment#treadle machine
1K notes
·
View notes
Text
end of spring🌸🧶🌱🧵
[prints]
#jjba#jolyne cujoh#jojo's bizarre adventure#stone ocean#deliart#if u guys only KNEW the amount of reworking this artwork had#i began working on it in fall and it had completely different flowers planned bc of that#but as february came i changed it to spring flowers and decided to cast a wide net with different blooms#bc i knew i was gonna procrastinate even further due to the hassle of lining the knit patterns#and when i finished it there were still cherry blossoms where i live so. but as im posting it they have ofcourse finished blooming.#i was sooo close to changing it again to like. bird cherry blossoms or lilac (which are currently blooming here) smh#i might make a fall version for this later though#bc im a little partial to the initial color palette i had. the outfit was gonna be red and the image darker overall#.. anyway putting this in scheduled posts since ill forget it in the drafts forever otherwise
3K notes
·
View notes
Text
THE GOOD PLACE 4.13 | Whenever You're Ready
#they're everything to me and jason's patterned shirt made me :')#*#the good place#tgpedit#thegoodplaceedit#janet x jason#janet#jason mendoza#tvedit#mialook#forgot this in my drafts :(
1K notes
·
View notes
Text
Claudia Black as Aeryn Sun in FARSCAPE 1.03 | Back and Back and Back to the Future
#farscape#aeryn sun#claudia black#syfysource#cinematv#filmtvcentral#chewieblog#smallscreensource#farscapeedit#farscape gifs#my gifs#claudia black gifs#we’ve all know that he would not fucking say that but do we know that she would not fucking wear that?#like...okay I have a lot of thoughts about that chiffon overshirt thing#because like...that is something I would wear#like i'm legitimately wanting to draft a pattern and make it#but. but I do not believe aeryn sun would wear it#like...it's not...exactly...her style. it's loose and doesn't really add anything other than aesthetic#and it's really not her aesthetic#now the conan-doyal explanation of this would be: it's early season one and they're trying things out seeing what works seeing what#claudia looks good in#the watsonian explanation is possibly that it's (if you follow the broadcast chronology - US and Aus at least) following on from#Exodus from Genesis and so she's just recovered from heat delerium and she's trying to keep her body temp low#and as such is wearing an outfit that is light and loose#but uhhh#yeah
2K notes
·
View notes
Text
Sometimes you gotta look back to see how much you've improved:
On the left is my first lacy on a whim petticoat, made in 2021. On the right the one I made this year.
Three years can make such a difference in creating the level of lacy floofiness I want in my life!
#i learned how to project and draft historical patterns#i learned to love coarser lace#i got to go to museums and fairs where old ladies give away yellowed lace with anyone with excitement in their eyes#a talia original#talia's adventures in dressmaking#excerpts from my life#sewing progress#lace petticoats#historical costuming#image id in alt text#idk i was cleaning up my phone#and i didn't really realise how closer I've gotten to my dreams#with 3 years of just sewing on a whim#let's call this one a december introspective
204 notes
·
View notes
Text
Lizard plushies am I right?
#rain world#fiskart#rain world lizard#rw#rw lizard#pink lizard#would it surpise you guys if i said this was once again made as a gift?#drafted the pattern from the bottem up all by myself and im so please#crafts#made it because a friend said they liked the official lizard plushies right when they had come out but wouldnt get one-#because of the shipping cost#i looked at the plushies anf just said ‘i think theyre so ugly Dont waste your money on them i can make you one better’#and so i did#plush
422 notes
·
View notes
Text
‘Don’t you leave him, Samwise Gamgee,’ and I don’t mean to, I don’t mean to!
#lotr#frodo baggins#lotr fanart#lotr frodo#lotr sam#sam gamgee#embroidery#cross stitch#my art#mine#my first self-drafted pattern!#finally bought a frame for it#lord of the rings#fibercraft#fiber art#hand embroidery
175 notes
·
View notes
Text
(desperate attempt to find my drawing spirit again number ?? )
this time .. unicorn centaurs?
#ganondoodles#art#centaurs#wip#doodle#idk why centaurs is the only thing i can get to stick to the paper#awkward position but i wanted to try an older heavily bearded draft ..unicorn version#bc i love draft horses#big chungus unicorns are underrated#can you tell i never draw horses lol#also the colors arent that much rottweiler actually#wrong pattern really but double checked to late#and now i need sleep
168 notes
·
View notes
Text
recently I got to make some little items with vograce sponsorship!! I made white rabbit and odd fortune-cat epoxy charms, lanyard, & washi tape. there's a more in-depth writeup on my insta but it was so exciting to make merch in an object format, hope everyone will enjoy too :^)) these will be available in my webshop along with tortoise prints!
#HAPPY MONDAY still so excited about this!!! 13 yo me would be going APE about getting to make merch (still going ape)#poured heart into designing a cute pattern block lanyard only to realise how insane it looks to wear a lanyard all the time. nevertheless !#its tea times#items#will get around to some ask replying tomorrow!! they are sitting warm and cosy in my drafts rn...rice cooker
220 notes
·
View notes
Text
[wipinf] damn someone get this girl a pad
#omega ass outfit#wip I’ll never finish#I hadn’t done realism since my vtuber days and lemme tell you those muscles are RUSTY#hey is it a period or is it a deflowering who knows#either way femininity is horror#are you guys used to this pattern yet where I post a fully rendered piece one day and half assery the next#lmao#digital art#my art#hws prussia#aph prussia#gilbert beilschmidt#hetalia#hetalia fanart#I’ll never forget doom asking me if this was because the blood running down legs post when he first saw the draft#and I was like …what post.#au naturale freak babeeey
286 notes
·
View notes
Text
Changing this blog's title to "Approximately 23 Unfinished Sewing Projects" in an attempt to publicly shame myself into maybe finishing some of them.
#sewing#it's more than that if you count the mending & alterations I keep putting off#a couple of them are just very simple neckwear that I need to finish hemming but there's also some big things#and I might have done a bit of pattern drafting recently but it doesn't count if I haven't cut it out yet...
870 notes
·
View notes
Photo
i made this apron a couple years ago more or less as an excuse to get as deep into plaid matching as i could. the pattern is an original draft based on 1930s-1950s aprons in mail order catalogs. the side gathers in the hips (detail in last picture) especially is a 30s design detail. the bias straps on the pockets are for hanging a towel from
#sewing#plaid apron#apron#historical fashion#vintage fashion#1930s fashion#new build#drafted pattern#pattern matching#pockets#patch
142 notes
·
View notes
Text
For almost a year now I've been working on and off on a paper piecing quilt pattern of Astartes helmets. I just think they're neat.
I have given myself quite the challenge, not least of which is that the designs are not consistent across official GW artwork. But this one I think I nailed. It's a Noise Marine Helmet complete with the mohawk, made out of intentionally clashing patterned fabrics. The wall hanging is around 50x100cm, with free motion quilting. It's a gift for the wonderful @tagedeszorns.
The pattern is a bit of mess, but if anyone is intersted: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1tpz0ypDM94BDMUfxoV7qrlkF5vLoJEmJ/view?usp=sharing
#warhammer 40k#warhammer 30k#emperor's children#noise marines#chaos marines#sewing#quilting#paper piecing#quilt pattern#self drafted#fanart
95 notes
·
View notes
Text
Patterns of Force
#star trek#star trek tos#leonard mccoy#spock#spones#patterns of force#gifs#enits gifs#my posts#this is literally the first shot of the episode after the enterprise flyby#just a really funny way to start an episode#still going through my drafts
124 notes
·
View notes
Text
she’s here for the job!
#no one forced me to but. never ask me to draw a patterned cardigan Ever again!!!#northern exposure#northern exposure art#marilyn whirlwind#elaine miles#my art#artists on tumblr#(i stole the background from an unfinished wip that's gonna. uh. it's gonna stay in the drafts)
675 notes
·
View notes
Text
My new sweater... yay!
#knitting#knitblr#self drafted pattern#i am happy how it turned out#i love the colour changing yarn#i love knitting
67 notes
·
View notes