#i need new enrichment in my enclosure etc

[proxycrit]

I love your au!!! I love how the hylian duo look like gremlins, I LOVE the expressions and sass constantly and the changes to the lore, the worldbuilding and also the emotions (OUCH). I love their relationship with purah and each other and the new champions. I love the depth you gave Yona and her relationship with Sidon and Mipha. I love how link feels comfortable talking to sidon in addition to sign, I don't know if he does that with anyone else but Zelda unless its absolutely necessary (eg: just launched out a cannon and is paragliding down, so hands are busy) (side note: i love how much of an adrenalin junky/gremlin he is!!)

I do got a few questions! Will the pair get the sheikah slate again (so say link has the slate and zelda the pad), and can both slates do the warping and item storage (food, ingredients, armor, weapons, etc) (if so: no WONDER link was so upset! His collection!)

Does link have access to the ultrahand abilities (ik you said not The ultrahand, but what about fuse or ascend or rewind etc?) Where is the mastersword??

Does Link still have the champions' abilities, or did he lose those when their spirits moved on at the end of botw?

I know these are a lot of questions but I can't stop thinking about it!! The last few updates sent me back rereading the whole au and now its just vibrating in my head and giving me no piece

This is long and rambly, just know I am very much enjoying this au! Its silly and fun and touching and cute. Thank you for working on it!!

Oo some notes (also ty for circling my au haha im glad other people fixate like i do)

(Prewarning— i did not finish totk despite putting triple hours in it, so a lot of this story is being written while playing, though i know the big broad strokes thanks to cultural osmosis and video essays. A lot of Familiar Familiar builds from my playthrough with BOTW over TOTK, so the sheikah influence is significantly stronger and I will always choose botw characterization over totk characterization as a result.)

That aside

1. Sheikah slate’s dead. Rest in pieces, link’s rare collectable korok poop. Purah’s extracting as much data as she can to put on the purah pad but you can see the dread in her eyes whenever she has to tell link resurrection is not possible.

2. No idea about the zonai arm powers yet— im thinking about ascend, but the longer i go through this story the less likely ill hand it to him just due to immersion breakage. He and zelda will be getting sheikah gadgets from purah though! Maybe ill have a scene of him wandering through the sky island shrines, but without zelda warning rauru he and sonia wouldnt have prepared anything for the hero of the future. (But i DO love ascension and fuse. Lowkey dislike the building mechanics from a concept art pov because the green glue makes me want to cry, but it’s FINE i GUESS)

2b. Master sword’s chilling in korok forest. Link put it back in this au because of Reasons (part of his and zelda’s characterization in this au is to discard their past roles and embrace the present, not as knight and princess but as hero and researcher. They both have to face the reality those roles aren’t dead, but it’s a work in progress. I may also never address it. This “one off hehe lemme draw some guys” idea quickly spiraled into a web comic series so apologies for the vagueness, because i too am watching them adventure with dread and awe and i don’t know where they’ll go with it. They literally write themselves.

3. Rip champions, their ghosts are Gone (but their influence remains. You go mipha, keep haunting the narrative girl, i love you)

I know that some of these story notes don’t quite match up to what totk states is stone cold canon, but that’s the joy of fan work! Anyways sorry for folks who i have NOT answered asks of— i have a lot of them and I’m much better at the drawing and writing part then the socialization aspect (please feel free to peak in to my zoo enclosure ever so often though. I need the enrichment)

[loptrcoptr]

It’s come to my attention that a lot of people in the BES fandom are new to fandom-culture in general (or lack there of; we denizens of tumblr are residents of a cesspool) and don’t know a lot of general old school online manners, laid down in Days of Yore by earlier generations. So let me bring up a crucial one that is generally being ignored on tumblr in the BES-sphere: ship tagging!

I am not doing this to condescend, I genuinely want to be helpful and to help us all enjoy our enclosure and our enrichment in said enclosure together. I think a lot of grief going around the blue eye samurai world on social media could be solved if everyone remembered one good old cardinal rule of fandom bullshit:

you do not put ship wank in a ship’s general tag.

let me say that one more time in different terms:

If you want to rant about how much you hate a ship, general practice has always been, on tumblr anyway, not to do so in the safe space created for said ship.

once again, lemme be very clear; I don’t give one rat’s ass or 800 collective asses of rats what you ship, why you ship it, whether you ship anything at all, why you hate x y z, etc. That’s great, that’s what fandom is for! Enjoy yourself! The issue is that there’s all this infighting fuckery going on that is exhausting to even watch from the sidelines, and I think there’s a lot of confusion as to why anyone is fighting over any of this shit at all as it is 2024 and ship wars are 2011 superwholock garbage that we all collectively agreed to jettison into space by 2015, ya feel me?

(and if you like to start shit and throw hands then obv this post isn’t for you as you know what you’re doing, this is for the folks who don’t know and are confused as to why they can’t rant without blowback)

So if you’ve gotten on tumblr recently and noticed your anti-ship post blowing up for some reason or other and asked yourself “Jesus why are these assholes from that ship always coming for me?? They’re such dicks!!” ask yourself:

did I tag them in my post?

Because when you tag a ship in a post about how much you hate it, it’s not a beacon that says “Hear Ye Hear Ye, Interacteth Not Ye Fuckos From Ship I Hate, This Is About How Much I Hate Your Ship”. For that to be the case, you would need old-school anti-ship tag nomenclature, like this: #anti-[shipname] or #[shipname] wank. Those tags would communicate your intent to rant, which is your sacred fandom right to enjoy doing! It is not, however, your sacred fandom right to enjoy doing it in the wrong space, that’s what’s happening here. A post that tags a ship with its normal tag, but whose content is anti/wank content about said ship, sends the signal: “ayyooo, who would like to debate this with me?”

So, does all that make sense? If you tag your post analyzing all the reasons why you think a ship sucks with #ship, you are encouraging everyone who ships that ship to interact with your post. It’s like rocking up to somebody’s house, ringing the doorbell, and saying “I hate your fugly ass piece of shit house, asshole” and then getting irritated when the homeowner responds with “who the fuck are you, get off my lawn?!”

#anti-[shipname], #[shipname] hate (forgot about that one, also useful), and #[shipname] wank do two very useful things:

1) They let other people who want to gleefully rant with you know that you’re on the level and they give like minded individuals a chance to follow those tags so you can have more rant sessions together, and

2) they minimize likelihood of involvement by the shippers you’re ranting about, who can block the tag, while keeping the ship’s normal tag open for the people who enjoy it

tldr; *swordfather voice* it would be bitchin if people could stop bitchin in the wrong places so that we can all coexist like adults here, touch some grass, and chill. Tag ship hate #anti-[shipname], #[shipname] wank, or #[shipname]-hate and keep it out of the general pro-ship tags :)

if your response to this is “don’t tell me what to do, cuntwaffle” or “I have an unhealthy relationship with the idea of shipping and think no one should have a safe environment to enjoy media except me and people I agree with so I will continue to poison the waters” then ok, cool beans, keep on chooglin’; but know that everytime you walk into a tea party you weren’t invited to and yell I HATE YOUR FUCKING TEA YOUR TEA SUCKS ASS blowback is a bit inevitable

[chaos-and-sparkles]

I yearn to talk about my Dracula!Holmes au, and the universe has seen fit to give me free will and internet access, so talk i shall.

Listen. Hear me out just hear me out.

We literally have Johnathan motherfucking Harker whose written POV we read Dracula from for like a solid half of the book, right. Well, no more, he's John Watson now babeyyy, a retired army man now gainfully employed as a lawyer who's off overseas to act as estate agent to the strange and eccentric client who has expressed interest in moving to foggy London... Count Holmes! [insert jazz hands]

Instead of being Evil(tm) and plotting to take over London or whatever, my guy is just Autistic. Also riddled with ADHD and in desperate need of some enrichment in he goddamn enclosure. He will also in fact be trans, because. Of course. Vampirism as a metaphor for queerness and the social ostracization that follows as a punishment and having inherently queer narratives intertwined in them etc etc... anyhow! Count Sherlock Holmes, vampire detective!!!

(I do also want him to be aroace, or aroacespec at least, but I'm willing to negotiate for the Johnlock and the Johnlock alone.)

Mina Harker here is of course the one and only Mary Morstan, although it is clearly a lavender marriage, because we aren't cowards in this household and so Mary gets to be gay with her Lucy equivalent here, just as god intended. I haven't decided who her Lucy equivalent will be yet but this au is still young (technically I've been going insane about it in my mind for like a month or two but whatever) and there's no reason we can't make up an OC for her Lucy.

John Watson, resident gay doctor lawyer, of course, is smart enough to realize the enigmatic Count Holmes' vampiric secret within like one adventure, but he sure is going to have a slow burn of realizing just how gay he is for said enigmatic Count Holmes. We, of course, get to witness this tooth rotting bullshit firsthand as we read his diary entries and some later letters to Mary.

And instead of being one long gothic horror narrative, it's just adventure of the week with your friendly neighborhood crime solving vampire, the various other mythical creatures who do said crimes, and Just Some Guy.

Just, every Sherlock Holmes adventure adapted into this au with other supernatural elements. The guy from the Red Headed League is a local villager being bamboozled by a leprechaun, the Silver Blaze thing is about a kelpie. Everyone including Sherlock was operating on the assumption that Irene Adler was a siren, but actually she was just a regular human, and instead of unlearning misogyny (bc I don't see trans vampire Sherlock living so long through changing times and society and being sexist), Sherlock has to learn not to underestimate the intelligence of humans.

Also, he's just really excited to have this new human, John, living in his castle. So curious, too, about humans, he has sequestered himself from them for such a long time and John seems like a very interesting one. He's probably the first friend Sherlock has had in a long time, too.

Also. Instead of being warded off or harmed by garlic, to Sherlock, garlic is just the vampire version of cocaine. He just gets high as fuck off garlic. Could live on the stuff. And the reason people think he's warded off by garlic is just because he was seen getting high off his ass, turning into a bat, and flying away in loop de loops upon consuming garlic one (1) time. And everyone thought it's his weakness. And he never bothered correcting them bc Why Would He. He's basically getting free cocaine left and right from villagers who are scared/wary of the supernatural Count Holmes and only go to him when there's no other option, and it's no bother to leave people he's not investigating alone.

I genuinely do think cocaine!garlic addicted Sherlock has so much comedic potential, it really is so beloved to me. Just imagine, if you will, an extremely put-upon John Watson caring for Batlock who has gotten high off his ass and refuses to stop flying into his own antique chandelier.

I was also thinking that it would be funny to have Mrs. Hudson and Mrs. Turner in place of Dracula's sexy vampire roommates or whatever those three were lmao (I couldn't think of a third character, sorry)

Also. Obviously. Van Helsing has got to be Moriarty, by virtue of opposition. I do think their whole deal has a lot of potential to be very funny and entertaining also. I am also considering it might be fun to have Lucy's other suitors be the Scotland Yarders, like Lestrade, Gregson and what have you, but that risks missing out on the very fun possible dynamic of "Sherlock being exasperated with the dumbass out of their depth Yarders he keeps helping" raised to like the hundredth degree so. I honestly would like people's thoughts on that.

Anyway so YES, Dracula au please and thank you. Maybe with endgame QPR Johnlock? Yes? Please? Queerplatonic husbands Johnlock is my shit.

In conclusion: THANK YOU FOR COMING TO MY TED TALK <3

[queer-omens-in-the-archives]

I'm very curious what do you think about these for Meronia:

1. How did they meet and what were their first impressions of each other?

28. What's a conversation they'd get overly invested in that nobody else would care about?

30. What's something one thinks the other should improve upon?

Hiii thank you for the questions!!!! :3

1- How did they meet and what were their first impressions of each other? In my mind Mello was already at Wammy's House when Near got there around age like… 7-8? Idk if the Wammy's staff would have formally introduced new children to their peers or just been like, "yo dropping this kid into their new enclosure, whatever bye", but either way:

Mello's first impression of Near was basically "huh, weird kid! ¯\_(ツ)_/¯" and then forgot all about him... until Near started outdoing him in every single subject ever except sports.

Near's first impression of Mello I could see go two ways: "who is this insanely charismatic sun-haired angel, I am having my first ever crush" OR "who is this loud agitated bastard, can't he be quiet and still, I'm sad about my family and trying to think". Either works for me dhgdsf.

28- What's a conversation they'd get overly invested in that nobody else would care about?

In the post-canon "Mello lives and they work together as L" AU that my brain seems bent on conjuring today: one time during a particularly slow/unbusy few weeks, they get really into figuring out the perfect font, kerning, line spacing, etc for optimised legibility of work documents. It gets to the point they're like, essentially collaborating on this, but ALSO having heated disagreements, printing out a bunch of test sheets for comparison, etc, culminating in one time when they take it to their staff... who are all like "uhhhh, who cares as long as we can read the stuff, what are you two getting so worked up about ?_?" and they are both so mad that nobody else cares. (They are just not getting enough enrichment in their enclosure, doctor idleness will KILL the patients they need fresh interesting thinking material to live)

In actual canon, I think that's more likely to happen at Wammy's House, due to the degree of focus the Kira case required from both of them + the fact they didn't really have any kind of regular contact after Mello left the orphanage. Probably some obscure area of science both of them happened to get really into at the same time, and couldn't find anybody else on their level to discuss with (I am unfortunately not enough of a science/maths person to have any idea what the exact topic could be lol)

30- What's something one thinks the other should improve upon? This one is really hard for me because in my mind they accept each other fully as they are and would not change anything about the other, even if/when it pisses them off <3 but trying to actually answer the question,

Mello prooobably thinks Near's emotional regulation skills could use some improvement? This is brought to you by a post I saw recently (unfortunately cannot find the post nor remember who made it) about how Mello is used to living life at an emotional intensity level of 85, so he's good at handling his emotions in general despite the occasional impulsive behaviour; whereas Near very infrequently going from his average of 0.3 emotional intensity to 60 is Much Harder for Near to cope with. And I think in the context of a romantic relationship between them, that skill imbalance could cause some friction / Mello definitely would want Near to get Better at it dfsfd

The other way around... welp. I have been rotating this in my mind for a literal ten minutes and cannot envision a single thing that Near would seriously believe (as opposed to off-handedly think and forget about 10 seconds later) Mello should do better. He thinks Mello is great exactly the way he is. Because who is Near if not the original Mello stan and apologist <3

[character relationship headcanons ask game]

[sapphia]

unpopular opinion but people who insist inside cats are the only ethical way to have a cat don’t seem to realise how un-cat-like a lot of their behaviour is. they’re bored shitless and understimulated all the time and confined to a territory that’s far too small for them and it fucking shows.

i literally just saw a post about a cat following mountain climbers with a reblog pointing out how far cats roam with the implication that that’s why outdoor cat owners are wrong for letting them out and it’s like… take that thought just a little bit further, please. if that was a zoo, most of you all would be alleging animal abuse and saying how it needs a bigger enclosure than what the zoo is providing. it’s the same principle. normal cats aren’t constantly trying to make a break for it, they won’t follow you around or bother you constantly or sniff every little thing because they’re desperate for any stimulation they can possibly get, etc.

most cats are far less trainable than you think because they’re not going out of their mind and can just go and choose to be somewhere else, do something else (or nothing else), and when you stop interacting with an inside cat and rewarding them for doing the things you want them to, they go back to being shut in a tiny little house again where everything is the same and with nothing new or engaging to occupy them.

if you have an extremely engaged inside cat that shows interest in everything you ever offer them, it’s because they’re bored. most cats are disinterested by default. there is not enough “here sniff this spoons” in the world that can fully make up for the enrichment of the outside.

if you have an inside cat i’m not saying you’re wrong, i get it, it totally depends on the cat itself and your location and all that jazz, and i personally wouldn’t have an outside cat in a city center either (i left my must-be-outside cat with my parents when I moved to near a busy road). but if you act like you’re better than other cat owners for it when you are literally not providing a roaming range big enough to meet their psychological needs… blocked.

[ragnarokhound]

for the ask game, dealer’s choice between 3, 8, and 24?

Sure! And because I'm feeling chatty, I'll answer all of them. B) Answering writer asks for this prompt list.

3. how do you feel about your current WIP?

Like this:

the last time I freaked out I just kept looking down st-st-st-stuttered when you asked me what I'm thinking 'bout Felt like I couldn't breathe You asked what's wrong with me My best friend Lesley said, "Oh, she's just being Miley" The next time we hang out, I will redeem myself My heart, it can't rest 'til then Oh-whoa-whoa I, I can't wait to see you again - Modern Poet Miley Cyrus c. 2007

8. if you had to write a sequel to a fic, you'd write one for...

ohhh it's a toss up between "no grave can hold my body down" and "intricate rituals", haha. I have ideas for a soft followup to intricate rituals that isn't that meaty - just answering the question of what Jason's first rut would look like OwO. And the no grave sequel would be...big, haha. That fic is very much the prologue-seeds of a larger story that would need a lot of thought about how things are different and what Tim's magic would look like! (I have Constantine shaped thoughts for it that would require me to read more Constantine comics lol)

24. how do you recharge when you're not feeling creative?

oof, definitely relevant to my current state :') I've mentioned it in tags this month, but I've been feeling pretty burnt out since November at least, so I've been in the trenches.

What I've been doing can mostly be summarized as 'taking a break', haha. I know I'll feel frustrated if I try to force words to happen, so when I get the self-destructive urge to do it, I try to refocus that urge elsewhere. Crochet, needlework, sketching, journaling, etc. Watching an old nostalgic show and reading Terry Pratchett. Looking at the stressors in my life and putting on my Adult Hat to see what they are and if I'm actually addressing them, or if I'm avoiding them. I usually feel the most blocked (in any aspect, not just creatively) if I'm procrastinating on something important. My brain knows I shouldn't be goofing off (ie writing for fun) if I haven't, like, done my taxes yet or applied for that new job I've been putting off. Annoying! But you gotta make space for your whimsy to grow. It needs enrichment AND a stable enclosure. 😔

[cherivinca]

Since the year is almost over, I wanted to make a small 2023 introspection (as well as talk about 2024 plans...)!

First of all, I hope everyone had a decent year! Mine was... okay. Better than 2022, and I've been feeling better in the latter half, I think, keeping myself busy and studying languages, writing, etc. But basically since graduating back in 2020 I've felt pretty lost (not helped by the pandemic, and the subsequent cost of living...)

In the past year I haven't been posting as much. There's a lot of art I kept to myself this year, and others I've posted on my (very small) personal tumblr blog. It's been harder to feel like it's "worth" posting here, though I hope I can change that

The art industry has felt tremendously shaky this year, and it feels even more bleak for someone who hasn't managed to break in <:( I've been working on my portfolio, and there's still more work to do, but I'm applying for schools this fall; if nothing job-wise comes up, then I will probably go back >< I'm already at a slight disadvantage since I don't live in the provinces that have studios, but I can't afford to move unless I have a job... haha (pain). I don't want to call it giving up, but gaining new skills might be helpful regardless. Even if it becomes a hobby, it might make me feel better 🥲 I never planned to be commission-dependent for so long

Anyway, I booked my first international trip (to Europe!!) this coming March, because I told myself I'd finally do it after getting my passport back in 2019 (expecting to travel after uni.....lol) so I'll be taking on comms primarily to help fund that in the next few months. I need enrichment in my enclosure, badly

I've been writing this year too. I don't know when/if I'll share my story stuff here (maybe related art...?) or not, but we'll see if I ever do anything with it. (It's wlw/fantasy hehe). In general, I hope to feel better about posting here, and maybe start making a small amount of merch!! I've always wanted to try :) And stream more, if I can!

Thank you to everyone who has supported my art this year, whether it's been through likes, rbs, following me, or commissioning me. :* Especially in this past year. I can tell that a lot of people have less disposable income, but I really appreciate people who have commissioned me regardless (which is another reason I worry for the future...)

Here's to more art & cool things in 2024!! And hopefully better times!!

[flock-talk]

My conure gets a lot of time out of his cage but when I put him inside he screams a lot because he wants to be taken out, any tips?

There's a variety of ways to address this depending ultimately on what you're able to provide in each situation and what the root of the behaviour is.

treat potential separation anxiety. This includes gradual desensitization protocols to teach them that the cage is a fun space, working up to breaking down all the elements that lead up to going in the cage, duration in the cage, and the elements involved with you leaving the room/building so they can learn to be relaxed and comfortable in all aspects of being left alone

reward an incompatible behaviour. This could be teaching them to ring a bell, sit on a designated perch, or make a softer vocalization that still earns them the reinforcement they're looking for - getting out of the cage. Since the screaming doesn't get them out but the more desirable behaviour does the screaming will fade away in this context. In this situation you do need to be available to follow through and let them out when they ask in this new way.

Evaluate the enclosure. Check the size, amount of enrichment, and whether or not they're utilizing the space when they're in the cage. If it's too small or they aren't using the space that won't be helping the behaviours you're seeing

Ensure they know how to play by themselves, if they can't entertain themselves when you're away that may be contributing to the screaming. Teaching them how to play and forage without needing you there can go a long way in them learning how to occupy themselves and feel less distressed when you need to go.

ensure their needs are met before being put away. If they haven't had adequate enrichment, exercise, or social activities prior to going in the cage it will be more difficult to settle.

have a predictable cage time routine. If they don't know when they're going away, why they're going away, or for how long it can be quite anxiety inducing. predictability provides confidence which in turn allows an animal to settle easier. Having consistent times or specific cues that tell the bird that they're going in there for bed, for a long time, or for a short time can reduce that anxiousness and provide clarity needed for easier settling.

watch the clock. Most parrots forage first thing in the morning, roost throughout the day, then go for another foraging round in the evening. If you're trying to get them to settle outside of that schedule you may face a lot of difficulty. Monitoring light hours, providing proper behavioural outlets at the right times and keeping a consistent routine can help.

don't use the cage as punishment. If sometimes the cage is supposed to be a place to relax and sometimes it's being used as an aversive (time outs) it can create a lot of stress and conflict around going in the cage which will make it difficult to settle and relax.

Provide an alternative, if your bird is seeking attention but not necessarily out time you may be able to compromise and just chat with them while they're in the cage, a way for them to still get some social interaction even if being outside of the cage is not a viable option at that point in time.

Avoid triggering the screaming, the more they practice it the more the behaviour will persist and the more stress and anxiousness they'll feel around the cage which can amplify the problem depending on the root cause. While working on the behaviour I would aim to avoid situations that cause them to feel distressed enough to scream. This may mean having a cage for the training vs a cage that is used when there's no other option (i.e you have to leave for work they can't stay out), or finding a different method of containment that doesn't stress them ( a safe room, someone else willing to stay at the home while it gets worked on, an aviary, etc.)

Encourage independence outside of the cage, this may be in the form of play areas or perches the bird can settle on without having to be actively on you. Encourage them to settle off of you but still in view and work up to being able to remain settled when you're out of sight, longer durations, etc. These skills can slowly be transferred to the cage setting over time.

[cyanocoraxx]

Hello! You have cool snakes and know a lot about them too, could I have some of your advice? I've recently been really into snakes, and seen tiktoks of how happy their owners are with them, it makes me really jealous and wishful for a snake companion of my own.

Except I know NOTHING about them, their care, needs or expenses. My experience with pets is a typical low to average maintenance dog, that's it. Never handled reptiles in my life. BUT SNAKES ARE SO ENTICING, and supremely cute too

I was wondering if you have any advice for a complete beginner on what kind of snake to get that's easy and as I said, for beginners (if it even works that way, I don't know a lot about snakes). If you have any resources and such.

Or even like, a checklist to see if I'm even eligible to own a snake (it could be hard idk). Want to know if it is even within my capabilities, the lifestyle needed and stuff like that.

Could you also give tips on their body language? I remember you mentioning in one of your posts that body language is important, and I wouldn't want to mess up. I want the potential cutie to like me after all.

Thank you anyway for your time! Appreciate it <3

so sorry for the late response i wanted to sit down and give a proper thought out guide and just haven't had time <3

checklist for eligibility:

you will need: a terrarium/vivarium, a heating device (heat mat, ceramic emitter or heat bulb), a thermostat (to control the heating device), a water bowl, a hide, substrate, and enrichment (sticks, leaves, decoration etc). make sure you have all of this on hand before you bring your pet home

you'll need to be comfortable or at least willing to feed your snake frozen prey, which means being able to consistently provide mice or rats (most common). most reptile stores will stock frozen!

depending on the species you want you'll need space for a vivarium. if you want a snake that can grow to be 4ft for example you'll need a space to put a 4ft viv.

you'll need to have time to regularly spot-clean their enclosure, which means binning their waste and removing shed skin. a full clean out once a month if not bioactive.

best "starter" snakes (imo):

rosy boa (2-3ft long, 25 years+)

royal python (3-6ft long, 20-30 years+)

corn snake (4-6ft long, 15-20 years+)

rosy boa - these little noodles don't get enough credit! they stay very small, they're very docile, and easy to care for. due to them being so small they only need small prey items which won't take up a lot of space in your freezer. they're very good eaters. downside is they're less common than royals and corns so depending on where you are you may struggle to find one near you. they can also be more food-motivated than royals and when they have food on their mind they can be a little more bitey - but with their tiny size, i promise you can't even feel it (from experience)

royal/ball python - a very common snake that can be found in most reptile shops. they're well known for being extremely docile and easy to handle as well as being super duper cute. they live longer than corns and rosys. downside to royals is they can be "fussy eaters" which can make new owners nervous - they're known for going off their food for months. they will also need larger prey items as they grow, so if you're not keen on keeping larger mice/rats in your freezer this is a downside. they're also more sensitive to improper temperature and humidity than corns.

corn snake - very common so can be bought easily! they also tend to be some of the cheapest snakes, especially if you want to get a "normal/wild type" morph. due to them having a large range in the wild they can tolerate a wider range of temperatures and humidity levels. corns are much more active than royals and rosys, so if you want a snake you can watch do its thing then a corn is a good shout. with this being said, they can be more "squirmy" when being handled compared to royals and rosys as they kind of struggle to stay still.

however, you're not limited to a choice of just three species. as long as you research your snake thoroughly and make sure you have everything you need, you can keep whichever you prefer. my first snake was a brazilian rainbow boa which is a more "intermediate" species and "not suitable for beginners" but he's been great. with their more extreme humidity requirements, i just made sure to keep a hygrometer on hand (to measure humidity) and provided plenty of moss, a large water bowl, and regular mist spraying. never had an issue <3

basic body language:

it's important to note that when a snake is preparing to shed its skin it will be vulnerable. its eyes will cloud over and its skin will feel irritated. we call this being "in blue" because the snake takes on a milky blue colour. during this time your snake might become defensive and this is normal. you should leave a snake in blue alone.

signs of a calm snake: short tongue flicks, loose and relaxed body, moving slowly, fluidly moving towards stimuli, curiosity, regular breathing. a calm snake may sit in an "S" position but it will not be coiling up or fixating on you.

signs of stress in snakes include: long and slow tongue flicks, tail rattling, tail wagging, hissing, striking, open mouth breathing, regurgitation, body flattening, gliding (moving very quickly away), coiling with the head raised (preparing to strike)

this is a very obvious example of a defensive corn snake: their body is coiled into an "S" shape, the head is raised. it takes this position so that it can 1. have a clear view of you 2. to strike upwards/forwards at you if it feels threatened 3. to look bigger to frighten you off. this is a snake who doesn't want to be touched at ALL

let me know if you need anything else <3

[bufomancer]

Just curious, how do you find time to care adequately for 50+ animals? Not insinuating you’re not caring for them correctly or anything. I understand that reptiles and rodents don’t need much if any 1on1 enrichment time with you, and some reptiles have infrequent feedings. But that’s gotta be at least like 30 tanks/cages to maintain, do you ever get free time between work and pets/fosters??

Short answer is I don’t get very much free time and I’m in hell

Long answer is a lot of spreadsheets and to do lists and frustration and I am often a day or two behind on at least one thing that isn’t super time sensitive. Especially right now with the foster rats getting medicated 2x a day.

My current routine is: Wake up, medicate rats, check everyone’s water sources, go to work.

After work if I have any intakes scheduled I do those- I am currently at capacity at my home but I still pick up new intakes and deliver them to their foster homes. Then I go home, feed the rodents, feed the reptiles if needed, water enclosures as needed, check water sources again, medicate the rats.

I give the small rodents (gerbils, hams, and mice) enough food for the week every Sunday so only the rats get fed on a daily schedule but I do give treats, fruits and vegetables, etc a few times throughout the week. I also do visual checks on everyone who is out and about and dig around for anyone I haven’t seen in a few days.

Right now the baby rats get their cages cleaned 2-3x a week because they’re so messy but the adults get cleaned 1x a week. My mice get cleaned 1x a week. Gerbils every other week and hamsters 1x a month and really only their pee spots. I spot clean throughout the week, this just refers to major cage cleans (usually between 1/4 and 1/3 of the bedding)

My permanent rats are on the Shunamite Diet so I meal prep their fresh meals every 2-3 weeks and make enough to last me for a while. I freeze whatever won’t be used within the week. They get fresh meals 2x a week and dry meals the rest of the week. The fosters are on Oxbow and Science Selective pellets.

Niobe (ball python) gets fed 1x a month, Ricearoni (hoggie) 1x a week. Freak, Meryt, and Lucky (pacman frog, axolotl, and leopard gecko) get fed 2-3x a week. The house geckos get fed 3-4x a week and luckily my girlfriend works at a pet store so usually she just brings me home feeders and I drop them in that day.

Most days it isn’t all that much maintenance but it is a LOT of different little things that all add up. For things I know I need to do but feel no motivation for, I’ll often make an instagram reel about it to basically force myself into doing it- same reason why I post my to do lists on here and check them off where people can see.

And I am very lucky that my friends & partner are understanding of the fact that sometimes I have to make last minute changes to plans because the pets need something that I can’t put off and oftentimes are happy to just accompany me on errands and chat while I clean cages instead of like, going out.

[fleetstreetpies]

Trapped in the Death Note Fandom, or The Concept of Dead Fandoms (More Below The Cut)

The severe entrapment has led me down the path of becoming a Misa Amane cosplayer, and, while this is great, nobody fucking gets it. Nobody except my beloved older audience (thirty somethings mostly) recognizes the look, if nothing else; even then the recognition is still pretty spotty. I even have a full character voice for her that is an uncannily good impression of the dub. And yet, most of the youngers (15-23, or my peers) do not recognize her. They perceive me as just “a cute girl at the con who doesn’t know anime at all but is probably just here with her partner”.

I am not just some cute girl at the con. If I were a cute girl at a con, I wouldn’t be a purple-haired nonbinary dumbass; I’d be a cute girl. Not that complicated. But that isn’t the point.

The one specific model and actress with BLONDE HAIR AND BIG EYES AND A CREEPY CUTE STYLE should be really recognizable, given that Death Note is a more popular Old Guard fandom.

But as it stands not only do we need enrichment in our enclosure, we need others to understand that there are other enclosures that are not Demon Slayer, BNHA, JJK, and SpyxFamily or something (I’m still kinda stuck in 2007 wrt anime but I’m digging myself out of that hole and need help figuring out what’s popular). All of these are decent media!! Do not mistake me!! But there are SO many good “older” anime series to watch too, and I highly recommend watching some!!

I think both of these groups can and do (and should) exist, and that we should learn from each other.

I was born a decent bit before the “renaissance” of the mid 2010s (in America) and grew up in this weird gap before things from the Old Guard (Death Note, OHSHC, etc.) started to go quiet and become “dead fandoms” (although fandom never truly dies) but while the New Pantheon (again, in America) was becoming a thing.

I grew up watching parts of the Old Guard shows when my mom would sometimes secretly help me consume very limited amounts of fiction! I don’t know how she did it, but she did! So I, and a few others grew up in this very weird little gap zone between the two main waves of the aughts and tens. Everything was fair game, and everything was a free-for-all. Fandom back then was different. I saw how mom’s friends interacted.

I’m glad to see that fandom is even still alive, even if differently than how very young me remembers it. But that being said, we shouldn’t let fandoms “die”. There is no such thing as a dead fandom, only a dormant one, and crossing paths, communication, and helping each other find what works best for them is what keeps ALL fandoms alive. I recently started watching SpyxFamily with a friend, to whom I then recommended Ouran High School Host Club (they like more lighthearted things on a general level but know I tend to prefer grittier with one or two exceptions). We each rather enjoyed the other’s show of choice, and have been watching them on our own. I learned from them, and they from me.

So grab that dusty manga or dvd box set off your mom’s shelf, or go on crunchyroll, or pirate it. No matter what you do, just add some enrichment to your enclosure.

It’s okay to embrace change.

Maybe then you’ll recognize model and actress Misa Amane.

Note: I use loose terms to describe the progression of anime fandoms in America over time that others might not use, and they are defined here (all years are spitballing estimates):

Elder Gods: “worshipping the elder gods” refers to watching/being in fandoms for anime from the 80s-about 2000. The elder gods are small but mighty. I worship one of the elder gods (Cowboy Bebop). I’m terrified to touch some of these fandoms because while I’m fucked up I know some of these are FUCKED UP.

The Old Guard: approx. 2003-2010. Includes old favorites like Ouran High School Host Club, Fairy Tail, and Death Note.

The renaissance: 2014-2020. Young anime fans might know BNHA, Chainsaw Man, SpyxFamily, JJK, and Demon Slayer. Some are from a little bit after my general window, but do strongly pull from the renaissance fandom popularity.

??? What comes next? A revival of the old fandoms? Some new thing? You decide!

Love being a Death Note fan in 2024. We're trapped here. We can't leave. I cosplay Matt a few times per year, during convention season. Someone at Anime Boston thought I was Hawks from MHA. I told her I was Matt from Death Note. I don't think she recognized the name or the character. There still isn't an official US production of Death Note: The Musical. People are still making "Imagay" jokes and acting like it's peak original humor. We're trapped here. We're banging on the walls of our cage, demanding enrichment in our enclosure.

[trainertips]

Pokemon Care Basics

okay so let's assume you've done your homework on what species of pokemon would be right for you. what now? well here comes the "fun" part, which is preparing for your new companion via brushing up on the basics of care. it gets easier in practice tbh ad a lot of this is preparation you don't have to do again, like buying bedding etc

here's a list of things you need to know and why they're important

Species-relevant behaviors. Every type of pokemon has similarities, but each individual species have quirks. you gotta prepare for them. I can't give detailed ideas here because my god there's hundred of kinds. basically, take into account the individual needs of your companion.

Nutritional needs and amount of feeding. every pokemon has different dietary needs, though general type-specific food often gets the job done. depending on the species, they'll have different needs and specific foods they want. also, figure out their nature ASAP. this will save you a lot of heartache in the coming days meal planning.

Energy level and battling. The best way for a pokemon to have a healthy outlet for their energy is through battle and exercise. You don't have to be a professional to go out and have a few spars within your community. There are battling centers, pokemon parks, and route-organized groups of trainers also willing to fight with you. Look into your local events, it's a great way to be more active in the community.

Grooming needs. all pokemon have different care necessities, and you need to know them (preferably before choosing a breed). some scaled pokemon need to be oiled, a lot of short hair pokemon require brushing, and some rodents need dust baths. make sure you know what's required and how often your pokemon needs to be groomed. I'll go more in depth in another post on this one

Nesting/den/bedding and appropriate enclosure space. A lot of people who own pokemon do so in their homes, which is certainly not wrong, but some species will require specialized living spaces. A litten is a cute lap cat until it evolves, in which it will require other space to itself. You CANNOT keep your pokemon in their pokeballs all day. While these are comfortable and can often act as a portable den space, pokemon cannot be cooped up in their balls all day, and require enrichment and appropriate comfort. ideally, your companions should spend at maximum 25% of their day in their balls (bar the exception of traveling, which may require longer periods in balls. but you can't drag a bed with you on the road anyway, so this doesn't apply anyway lol)

Training away from destructive behaviors and proper boundaries. This is a BIG one most new trainers don't do right. a gible who bites your table legs is only so cute as its fangs don't leave lasting damage; when it evolves into a wild-tempered gabite it will still think it's okay to bite your furniture unless you stop that nonsense early. your pokemon also have to be socialized properly. yes, even if you don't intend on letting them out in public. you letting your gastly understand that sometimes it has to hold its tongue around strangers will be the difference between a few hours of discomfort when you have a repairman over and a lawsuit from being poisoned.

remember that this is a basic overview, specifics of these points should be researched properly for your breed and talked to with your local Pokemon Center and breeder/organization of choice.

[ineffablefool]

This is so rambly, I'm sorry, but I saw the Ball Python Owner Signal in the sky and went feral. Note, I am not claiming any of the below is objective fact, other than I suppose Thermostats Are Necessary and Heat Bulbs Are Not For Touching.

Anyway.

CHE is generally more efficient than visible light bulb (energy turned into light is energy not being turned into heat), and will last longer. My personal preference, though, is undertank heater(s) controlled by a good thermostat *and* a supplemental overhead heating source.

Beeps spend a lot of time on the ground, and do not commonly climb on top of things to bask. I mean, they can and do climb all over whatever you'll give them, and some of them may occasionally display what appears to be basking behavior. The most important thing is that, when they're hunkered down in their hide, they are getting somewhere between high 70s (cold side) to high 80s or even low 90s (hot side). Overhead heat is wonderful and important to keep the ambient temperature up to about the same as the cold side, but they usually don't heat inside the hide as well without making the outside of the hide too dang hot. (My phone autocorrected "dang" to "dangerous" at first, and, I mean, yes, but also no thank you phone.)

Oh and the heat bulb/CHE absolutely must not be anywhere where the snake can directly touch it. If it's inside the enclosure, it needs to be in a wire cage or something. Otherwise it needs to be hung from above. If there is a surface it's possible for your snake to touch, it needs to never get hot enough to burn. For stuff up on the ceiling I personally allow temperatures of "I, a baby, can press my entire palm to it and handle 15-20 seconds of discomfort before I need to pull away". That does mean my light fixtures hang from overhead at a distance of a few inches above the lid -- if I put the fixture right on the metal mesh lid of the enclosure, the underside of that mesh gets hot enough to burn me, so it's a No for snakeys.

Oh gods I have so many opinions about snake heating.

Assuming a glass tank with a lid, I recommend sticky-pad undertank heating by Zilla or Eco Terra or whatever, hooked up to a HerpStat if you can afford it (they are amazing and will keep temperatures very even; don't bother paying extra for the wifi version) or something like this (the one I bought in 2016 had a temperature swing of like 4 degrees, but new ones might be better). Suspend a CHE from one of these (I use double-bulb lamp fixtures, so I have an ordinary visible light bulb that runs on a day/night timer plus an always-on heat emitter, but that's just me).

Assuming glass tank with metal mesh lid, humidity will be not the absolute worst problem with coconut fibers a la Eco Earth, but covering over the top of the tank will save you a lot of grief. There are tutorials for different ways to do that, or you can be lazy like me and buy a sheet of clear vinyl from JoAnn Fabrics and tape it down around the outside top of the tank so it completely seals in freshness. And if you do that then aspen shavings (never pine) are also a good choice. You want vaguely around 60%, higher during sheds, and I do not recommend one of those analogue dial hygrometers; digital ones are generally much more accurate.

I am not sure if Animal Plastics is still well-regarded for PVC enclosures, but the one I bought back in uh 2015? 16? is a thing of well-made beauty. Totally different heating setup, though -- they will advise you on and then sell you the appropriate fixtures, based on your use case, so it's fewer decisions on your part.

Oh, do you have two hides and some other stuff for them to slither under/over/behind? And a bottom-heavy water dish that you can clean frequently (I like these) and that they could maybe soak in if they wanted? You need those too. You can do, like, clean cardboard packaging material for short-term enrichment jungle gym things as long as you remove all staples, tape, glue, etc. Hides could be basically anything that's the right size ("I'm not sure that's quite big enough?" is usually perfect), as long as it's opaque, nontoxic, waterproof, and has no sharp edges. I just use the boring black plastic rectangles.

,,,I am making myself stop now, but my messages/asks are open XD

Good luck with new noodle!!

Hey a neighbor just dumped a ball python on me because she didn't think they actually ate mice

So I'm trying to take care of it but it's been a long while since I had a snake and I'm not afraid to ask for help

Do you have any recommendations for substrate and in tank heating?

We currently have what the baby came with , some damp coconut husk and a single low heat bulb lamp.

We're going to update the tank tomorrow or the day after based on how much we have to travel and outfit it but substrate can change a lot based on brand

Sorry for rambling

Oh, oof. I'm so sorry that your neighbor was irresponsible and really glad that that poor snake is in a better situation already. Thank you for taking them in and giving them a chance.

I'm not a ball python expert by any means, so please take what I say with a grain of salt and double-check before you commit to anything.

When I worked in the pet industry (one million years ago!) cypress mulch was the preferred substrate and it can be mixed with coco coir. Coco husk chip on its own is also supposed to be pretty good for higher-humidity species and it's very sustainable.

For heat, I'm a big fan of under-tank heating, but a radiant heat panel or a ceramic heat emitter might be better depending on the enclosure. Light bulbs are an inefficient heat source for snakes and overnight red lights are both inefficient and affect circadian rhythms so I didn't recommend them for reptiles at all.

Just make sure whatever heat source you choose, there's a thermostat to keep it in check.

I hope the snake thrives in your care and that the two of you are fast friends!

[bpdfox]

My mom is a hoarder, and her parents are hoarders as well. I know I have severe attachment issues as well as CPTSD. I was born 3 months premature and spent the first month of my life in an incubator, was raised in a cult, and growing up was, uh, rocky, to say the least.

From the time I was born I've had animals. I've always felt closer to animals than I have with people, and taking care of animals has always been something I simultaneously love and also deeply deeply struggle with.

I've had friends of mine express concern to me about my animal care habits (and I don't want to say I didn't listen to them just because they were bitchy about it, but I interpreted it as a personal attack against me and I guess I was too scared to face the truth.)

The thought of rehoming any of my animals causes me immense fear, anxiety, and hopelessness. It's not so much like feeling like "no one else can care for them like I can" as it is knowing deep down that anyone else would be able to care for them better than I am able to -- and that means I'm not enough. Or something. I don't know. It's like "who am I without all of these animals"?

When I get stressed or depressed my first instinct to try and get myself out of the rut is to look for another animal to take in. It's how I've ended up with a lot of my animals -- the preparation needed to focus on the new member of the pack and what they need/enrichment/dietary needs/enclosure specifications/etc is enough to keep my mind busy enough that I don't fester on my issues and fall into a deep pit.

My partner knows that if I start looking into new animals I'm probably not doing great.

And I don't know. Something just finally clicked a few days ago and I don't know what it was. I guess I'm finally ready to address this issue and try to make things better, even though everything inside me is screaming to keep avoiding it.

Are there any resources for compulsive hoarder recovery? Particularly with animals?

I'm planning on rehoming my rabbits and rats and reassessing from there.

This has been a really really really difficult thing for me to come to grips with. I'm still struggling to accept it.

[dinkypets-blog]

My Basic Ball Python Care Guide

What You’ll Need

* Enclosure: Locking Lid Plastic Tub or aquarium (20 gal recommended for a baby, at least 40 gal for adult male, 55-75 gal for adult female. If you choose an aquarium, I recommend investing in clips, to prevent your ball python from escaping)

* Heating: Under Tank Heater (UTH)

* Heat Regulation: Thermostat

* Humidity Regulation: Hygrometer

* Substrate: Cypress Mulch mixed with Eco Earth (substrate is based on preference, I highly recommend a substrate that hold moisture)

* Hide #1

* Hide #2

* Hide #3

* Enrichment: Fake Vines, Branches, Driftwood, etc.)

* Water Dish: any water dish your ball python can fit in

* Feeding Tongs

* Disinfectant: Chlorhexidine (there are other products you can use as disinfectant, this is what works best for me)

* 2 Spray Bottles (1 for misting, 1 for disinfectant)

* Feeders: mice or rats, depending on the size of your ball python. (I highly recommend frozen/thawed)

*Products can be found at Walmart, Amazon.com, and pet supply stores. Some products might be cheaper from other sources, compare prices as you wish.

Steps for Setting Up Plastic Tub

* Acquire all materials as seen in “Initial Costs”

* Drill holes for ventilation in the tub

* Deep clean and disinfect tub and let it air out (roughly 30-45 minutes)

* Deep clean and disinfect hides, enrichment, and water dish; let it air out (roughly 30-45 minutes)

* Set up enclosure, starting with substrate (2-3 inches worth), then placing hides, enrichment, and water dish in an organized fashion. Make sure the hides are evenly spread out, so the snake has the option to hide anywhere in the enclosure.

* Place the UTH to the far left or far right side of the enclosure (make sure it is UNDERNEATH the enclosure)

* Plug the UTH into the thermostat, and plug the thermostat into the wall. To set the temperature for the thermostat, press and hold the “Set” button until the numbers start blinking, then adjust the temperature to 90℉

* Install hygrometer and adjust humidity by misting the enclosure until the hygrometer reads 50-60%

*Steps for setting up aquarium are the same, except you don’t have to drill holes in it.

Care

* Heating: Ball pythons, like all reptiles, are cold blooded, so they cannot regulate their body temperature. It is very important to provide a heat gradient for your ball python. This basically means having a warm side and a cool side. The warm side should be between 87-90℉ (to be regulated by the thermostat) and the cool side should not drop below 70℉, but typically room temperature will suffice. As long as your ball python has can access the warm side and the cool side at all times and have hides at both ends, they should be just fine. The best heating element for a ball python is a UTH, which should cover approximately ⅓ of the entire enclosure. If you cannot maintain at least 70℉ on the cool side, invest in a ceramic heat emitter (CHE).

* Humidity: Ball pythons like their humidity around 50-60%. It is highly recommended to bring the humidity up to 60-70% during shed. What I’ve found to be both effective and more convenient, is to maintain 50-60% during shed, but also provide a humid hide during shed, and only during shed. The humid hide is a plastic tupperware container that your ball python can go in and out of freely. The substrate within the hide should be able to hold moisture, such as sphagnum moss (I will use paper towels from time to time, that works for me as well). Humidity in the humid hide should not be too high, so as to avoid a respiratory infection (RI), but high enough to help your snake have a good, full shed.

* Shedding: Shedding happens every 4-6 weeks, give or take. When they shed, it means they’ve grown. Younger snakes will shed more than older snakes, as the growth rate decreases, but never stops. Shedding happens in stages. Stage one is pink belly. At this point, you want to start dampening the humid hide regularly (once in the morning and once at night), OR up the humidity to 60-70%. After a few days the pink belly will clear up and you’ll notice your ball python looks dull and their eyes get cloudy, also known as “being in blue” or “zombie mode”. Your ball python will become irritable and sensitive, so it’s best not to handle them. “Zombie mode” will last a couple days, and then your ball python will shed. The whole process lasts about 1 week. Your ball python may refuse to eat until shed is complete, so it’s best to wait until they finish shedding and feed them the following night.

* Feeding: Feedings should happen once a week, or every 5-7 days for babies. Adults will eat either once a week, or every other week, depending on the size of your snake and its prey. Smaller snake and smaller prey = once a week. Larger snake and larger prey = every other week. Feeding schedules are subject to change. Prey should be about 1.5x the thickest part of your ball python. You should be able to see a little lump in their stomach after they eat. Ball pythons can be picky eaters, and sometimes go off feed for months at a time (typically November-February). This is no reason to panic, ball pythons have bizarre metabolisms and can go months without eating and barely lose weight. If your ball python is being picky and losing weight, there are tricks you can use to convince them to eat.

* Water: Fresh water should always be available for your ball python to drink or soak in. However, if they are frequently soaking, there might be an underlying issue you want to look into ASAP. At the bare minimum, change water once a week. Every other day is ideal, and 2-3 times a week is sufficient. You may never see your snake drink, as they get most of their hydration from their meals and the humidity. It is still essential to provide water.

* Lighting: Ball pythons are crepuscular, which means they are most active at dawn and dusk. It is not uncommon to see them up during the day and in the middle of the night, but they will be most active at dawn and dusk. Since they are crepuscular, you do not need to provide them with UVB, or any other type of lighting. Natural day and night cycles are the best option. If you cannot provide natural day/night cycles, provide a light bulb that produces little to no heat (so as not to mess with the ambient temperature in the enclosure), and use a timer to manage the day/night cycles.

* Cleaning: Spot clean everyday. Check for poop, urate, and shed everyday and remove as necessary. Deep clean once a month. Dispose of all substrate, disinfect enclosure, hides, enrichment, and water bowl. Let everything air out for 30-45 minutes before replacing substrate and hides, enrichment, and water bowl.

* Bathing: It is unnecessary to bathe your ball python regularly. The only time a bath is required is if your snake is stuck in shed, has slithered through poop and is covered in it, or if they have mites. Even if they are covered in poop, a “sponge bath” may be more appropriate. Bathing too frequently can cause respiratory infections. Some mite treatments don’t require frequent bathing, look into different treatment methods and choose one based on effectiveness and what’s best for your snake.

Pros and Cons

* Pros:

*Quiet pets

* Little to no odor

* Easy to feed

* Easy to clean up after

* Docile animals

* Don’t require socialization

* Easy to handle

* Hardy animals

* Cons:

* It’s a snake...ew (jk)

* Easy to neglect

* Lifespan ~30 years (this is only a con because that’s a long commitment)

* Can sometimes be picky eaters

* IF they get sick, vet bills are expensive (ball pythons are hardly snakes, health issues are rare so long as husbandry is good)

* They don’t “love” their owners, they don’t form bonds like mammals do

Tips

* When replacing the cypress mulch, let it dry out for a couple hours so the humidity doesn’t get too high and you can avoid risking a respiratory infection. You can easily increase humidity, but decreasing humidity is far more challenging.

* Keep a bottle of Natural Chemistry Reptile Spray on hand. Snake mites are the most common ailment amongst ball pythons, and having a bottle on hand to start treatment ASAP is really helpful. You may never need it, but it doesn’t hurt to keep it as a precaution.

* Don’t handle your ball python for at least a week after getting it, let it get accustomed to its new environment.

* Don’t handle your ball python before it eats, sometimes handling can stress it out and it won’t eat.

* Don’t handle your ball python for a couple days after it’s eaten to avoid regurgitation. If your ball python does regurgitate, wait about 2 weeks before feeding again to allow its esophagus to heal from the stomach acid.

* Handle your ball python for 15 minutes a day (except before and after feeding) to get it used to handling.

* Do regular research, you may discover a better method of reptile keeping.

* Talk to other reptile keepers, everyone has their own method and you might learn what to do as well as what not to do.

* Change the arrangement of your ball python’s enclosure every once in a while. It’s added enrichment for them to explore, it’s good for their brains, and it’s fun to get creative.

* Ball pythons are semi-arboreal, so it may be helpful to provide them with something to climb on. While it is not necessary, it’s added enrichment and it’s pretty cool to watch them climb.

* You can never have enough enrichment!!! Obviously, don’t over-stuff your enclosure, but the more enrichment, the better.

***Disclaimer: Everyone has a different method of reptile keeping, this is what works for ME. I am NOT an expert. This is what I’ve learned over the last 2 years of ball python keeping. I’m still learning. Feel free to add your experience and what you’ve learned from reptile keeping and other research.

[poisparrots]

A bit about pet bird laws in Sweden

So I live in Sweden, and we have have, for the most part, really great animal/pet related laws and regulations. I was thinking I'd share a bit about it with anyone who's interested, because I do think it is quite interesting!

Specifically, the laws regulating how you're supposed to keep and care for rodents, birds, reptiles etc, are really mostly there to encourage people to keep their animals as close to natural as possible. So like, the laws are there to make sure every pet gets to perform all their natural behaviors in a continually enriched environment. It's pretty great (I mean I'm mostly updated on the bird part of it, but, at least that part is pretty great)

So, for starters, you are never allowed to clip a bird’s wings until the bird is fully developed (one year old I think is the limit), you’re only allowed to clip the wings once a year, and only if you have it on record that you can’t train the bird to wear a harness. I, a pro-flight person, was THRILLED when they added regulations on wing clipping a couple of years ago, I think this is pretty great. We also have regulations on how big the cages have to be, so for example, the smallest allowed cage size for an Alexandrine is 200x110x120cm (6′6″x3′7″x3′11″), for a Cockatiel it's 120x70x80cm (3'11"x2'3"x2'7") - and for a Macaw, you’ll have to build yourself an aviary measuring 360x181x180cm (11′9″x5′9x5′9) or more - Which is HUGE. And also GREAT.

So, to tie in with my last post about why I almost feel like Swedish parrots have an easier time getting along with other birds - You’re not allowed to remove any baby birds from the parents and you can’t hand feed them unless you have to because the parents won’t. Like, if the baby isn't basically pushed out of the nest and/or starved by the parent/s, you are not allowed to separate an unweaned bird from their parent/s. Like I said in that other post, instead of having a breeder pair in an aviary and taking out the babies to feed and raise them on their own, if someone wants to produce tamed, social baby birds who like people, they rather tend to have a tamed and social pair of birds breed, let the birds do the feeding and the raising, but still interact with the babies when they’re ready and the parents are ready - so they get to grow up learning how to be a bird, and then they also get to learn, mostly from their tamed and social parents, to interact with humans and that humans are pretty great.

You also need to keep your bird (if it's not naturally a solitary species) with another bird (or birds) of the same species or genus. Even if you’ve got an aggressive bird who literally can’t be with other birds or they'll attack, the rules state that you have to have at least one other bird in another enclosure nearby so that they can see eachother and communicate verbally. There IS an exception to this whole rule, stating that if you are personally able to substitute a bird friend, you get to keep a bird alone. I personally don't believe a human ever really CAN substitute a bird friend, but.. Keep in mind that I'm saying this as someone with a single Amazon. Like, I get that you sometimes HAVE to keep a single bird, and that you sometimes definitely can't take on multiple birds. And that's fine too! It's totally great - I just think bird friends, when it works out, are even greater. Haha.

You also have to keep their enclosures and environments properly enriched, and it gives you a couple of hints and tips about how to do that. It's also stated in there that you have to have perches appropriate to your bird's foot size, and that you should provide a variety of perches of different diameters.

All in all, I love it! If nothing else, it provides a really good point of reference when talking to someone who may be new to birds and doesn't really know how to take care of them. Being able to just say "Well, here's what the actual law says you should do---", haha. :') What are your thoughts?