#early women's rights

[resplendentoutfit]

The Evolution of Pants for Women: from Underwear to Fashion Statement, Part I

I've posted a lot on the Victorian fashion era which, frankly, is favorite – visually, anyway. It's time to jump ahead a bit to the 1920's and catch a glimpse of how rapidly fashion changed in the late 1900s to 1920s.

figure 1

First, a quick run-down of how underpants led to actual fashionable dress. In the better part of the 19th century, women had no need of underpants because of the many layers they donned as part of their dress ritual. During the Regency period, some women, not yet incumbered by hoops and bustles, would sometimes wear male-style underpants if they couldn't resist a dress made from a sheer fabric. It meant less need for extra petticoats as well as a guarantee that nothing private would be exposed in dubious, uncontrolled light.

Usher in the Victorian era and hoop skirts and petticoats were sufficient to satisfy modesty.

In the early 1900s we begin to see the emergence of pantaloon-chemise combos, slips, and various types of corsets that are beginning to look more like the modern girdle. (Figure 2)

figure 2

The first woman in history to wear trousers was Elizabeth Smith Miller, known as Libby, in 1851. The popularity of the ‘pantaloon’ style, however, was due to Amelia Jenks Bloomer, an American women’s rights advocate and publisher of the magazine, The Lily. Through the magazine, Amelia helped to popularise ‘bloomers’ in the late 1850s, and hence, the bloomer style was consequently named after her.

“As soon as it became known that I was wearing the new dress, letters came pouring in upon me by hundreds from women all over the country. They were making inquiries about the dress and asking for patterns. It showed how ready and anxious women were, to throw off the burden of long, heavy skirts,” Amelia Jenks Bloomer wrote at that time. Shortly after, the style started to gain a lot of media recognition. The newspapers of those days described the style as: “Pantaloons" or ‘Turkish trousers" – "men-garments designed specifically for women.”

figure 3

Amelia suggested to women to wear less tight clothing and more comfortable clothing – women's trousers – a very radical idea for the times. They were very wide trousers, narrow at the ankle, with a short skirt on top. The idea was then revived in 1881 by viscountess Haberton, who founded The Rational Dress Society in England, a movement that replaced the use of women's dresses in the name of health and hygiene, proposing the use of wide trousers or pant-skirts. (Figure 3)

Women in pants were intimidated, harassed, and ridiculed to the point that, by 1859, even the most daring, including Jenkins Bloomer, gave up their fight for pants.

1890's cigar-box lid depicting a satirical scene of women in pants and smoking cigars.

That, however, is obviously not the end of it. Stay tuned for part 2.

Sources:

Fashion History Timeline

messynecychick.com

scuola le leonardohttps

Ethnologia Europaea

History Extra

[reallyunluckyrunaway]

If Donald Trump is Warmongering and Blatantly THREATENING A Woman in Front of Hundreds of People, Than What Do You Think He'll Try to get Away With In The Whitehouse?

Admitted child molester, Rapist, Raging Misogynist and Racist, and bribing and tampering with our elections... What more do you need to rise up people?

#Vote Kamala Harris

Trump attacks Liz Cheney as "war hawk," saying see how she feels "when the guns are trained on her face" https://www.cbsnews.com/news/trump-attacks-liz-cheney-war-hawk-guns-trained-on-her-face/

[isagrimorie]

In season 2 Hotch is suspicious and worried that ‘Is that Legal’ Emily Prentiss is a pawn Strauss placed in the BAU.

Prentiss is the last person troubled by Elle Greenaway's 'questionable' shooting. Spies are built with moral ambiguities. But Hotch didn't know that.

(Pre-London Emily tried to reset her life. And succeeded before Ian Doyle re-entered her life. Post-London!Emily realized and learned she could 'live' with her moral ambiguities.)

[youling-the-ghost]

Jasper and Jimmy are adorable and hold a special place in my heart, but it makes me giggle that their friendship implies that modern-day police officers exist alongside the the witch hunt era of Europe in the sfth extended universe.

[bartholomew-junior]

i’m so proud of ayano’s portrait

[cyarsk52-20]

not NFL Star Levon Bell ‘Outed’ By Trans Woman lmaoooo 😂

[vamptastic]

dgaf about egg jokes they're harmless and at worst mildly stereotypical do your thing im sure ive made one before. however. i do feel like the whole discourse was kicked off by that "egg behavior to wear women's deodorant as a man" tweet and we all collectively need to agree that that tweet was dumb & stupid and women's deodorant is objectively superior to men's. actually men's hygiene products in general just suck more except razors. apparently its manly to smell like shit and have dry skin. if i had my druthers id force every cis man to use dove deodorant. id mean id still do it if it made them transgender but i see it as more of a public service in terms of smell than in that regard.

[resplendentoutfit]

Women's Suffrage Movement

The movement for women's suffrage took many decades to obtain voting rights. Women fought for their rights via smart political strategy. Dynamic leadership attracted several generations of women – mothers, daughters, and grandmothers formed national organizations and made alliances that brought women into the political sphere. The fight intensified during World War I due to women's work outside the home to help the war effort. Women now saw themselves as fully deserving of the same rights as men.

A trio of outfits at the Daughters of the American Revolution Museum shows the evolution from the last gasp of Edwardian bulk to the short, simple dress of the Twenties. Left, a two-piece dress of about 1907 (Daughters of the American Revolution Museum). Center, a houndstooth suit of about 1914 (loan courtesy Shippensburg University Fashion Archives and Museum). Right, black and white day dress, 1925 (Daughters of the American Revolution Museum).

Exhibition vignette with the “Bear the Banner Proudly They Have Borne Before” banner, circa 1913-1920. National Woman’s Party. Belmont-Paul Women’s Equality National Monument, Washington, DC.

Purple, white, and gold were among the colors representing the movement. White dresses were worn by women as a representation of purity of thought and high-mindedness. Purple represented the vote and loyalty, constancy, and steadfastness. Gold stood for the torch that guides our way.

Ethel Wright (1866–1939) Christabel Pankhurst (British suffragette) • National Portrait Gallery, London

[auxxrat]

also, there’s something so disgustingly sad and kinda creepy that jango grew up with a culture that valued fatherhood so highly— only to end up as a dna-cow for children he’ll never raise.

[astramachina]

Character Intro

Dr. Farris Thorne — Field of study: Classified. Current "Official" status: Head researcher at the Institute for Glaciate Molecular Preservation.

art by the wonderful @hrgwin (Wait, if she's a molecular scientist, why does she have a blowtorch—do NOT worry about it. It is in your best interest to not question it.)

Colleagues simply refer to her as Thorne as a tongue-in-cheek joke since she tends to be a thorn on other researchers' sides. Her work ethic is pristine but her methods are, at best, eccentric, and at worst, downright dangerous. The only rules she abides by are the rules she has set in place in her own lab, because who knows the space and its infinite intricacies better than herself? Clearly not the higher-ups pushing for far weirder experiments than the ones she's already been working on for the past twenty years.

She gets answers without asking questions, mostly because she has a tendency to break into classified servers to get the information she wants. This is how she learns about the continued existence of Project Callan, a highly classified endeavor that allegedly shut down on claims of pseudoscience and bloated government spending during the 60s. But the files are actively being updated with live footage of a location labeled only as "The Enclosure".

Thorne knew about Project Callan though, courtesy of the elite "boys only club" her father used to be a part of. There's a reason why Daddy Dearest is no longer on the IGMP researcher roster. And there's a reason why, after taking up his mysteriously vacated position at the tender age of sixteen, her personal files became redacted.

"Knowledge is power" is true in a plethora of ways, and while her chattiness often gets mistaken for charisma, she knows how to weaponize her silence. Project Callan is functioning under a different name, sponsored by an unknown organization dating back to the late 1800s, and she will do anything to get her hands on the reality-shattering "artifact" at its core.

She's 6'3". She's mean. She has, in fact, bitten people. She has serious beef with one Dr. Verne Krasner and the reason he's still alive is because he's really good at disappearing off the face of the planet. She's a pastel nightmare and thinks she might be a lesbian but unfortunately she has a job and the idea of engaging in social rituals exhausts her. RIP Dana and the rest of Thorne's acolytes, they never had a chance.

Dr. Thorne is one (of several) antagonists from The Singularity Project (title pending), a multi-media sci-fi horror webseries!

[bonefall]

Screaming crying throwing up at the Thunder spoiler thread because

-

-THUNDER SPOILERS-

-

Frostpaw coming to the realization that the Park Cats have a culture that she likes better than the culture of the clans, and wanting to bring elements of it back home with her? That COULD be an actually good use of a traveling book, and it WOULD be an actually nice change to see the clans do any kind of self-reflection on the violence of their culture. Unfortunately, I don’t trust the Erins even a little bit to follow through in any kind of satisfactory way on that plot thread, so I worry it’s going to result in the Clans once again looking at an outside culture and taking a very xenophobic lesson away from interacting with it.

I'm still trying to work out my feelings on the return of the Park Cats... overall, I think I'm feeling pretty frustrated, and it's coloring my perception of them

I also really disliked Riverstar's Home, though. I hated the traveling, I didn't find the Park very interesting in practice, was annoyed by a ton of small things. It felt like the book only got good once we were back in the forest, so, maybe I'm still tasting my sour introduction to the Park cats.

I also don't have any faith in the authors to handle Waffle and Wasp well, or any of the practices Frostpaw is planning to bring home. At this point I'm expecting it. What's really on my mind is... why?

Why did they create a whole little unchanging cultural bubble, a group under glass, exactly the same as it was during the dawn of the clans... when they were just going to blast Frostpaw with The Avatar State anyway?

She can talk to Riverstar whenever. And every ancestor who served under him. And you don't even have to waste 6 chapters on travelling. Could we not have learned about meditation from Riverstar, if the Erins are soooo eager to shove the ancestors into this and write him as her spirit guide?

Like, all this time dedicated to a culture whose one trait is meditating. I have frustrations with the Sisters and Tribe, but they're interesting concepts, with their own spiritual beliefs, government, and customs. So far, the neo-Park has been bland.

Like Guardians, a bare-bones group that showed up once in an SE and just existed to serve the Clan cats for a while, and send Tigerheart back with new characters.

But like, back to the Lesson of the Park Cats, whatever thing Frostpaw could bring home

I just... man, I go off about Clan Culture and its violence literally all the time, but this arc has been ridiculously peaceful. We are 4/6ths of the way through and there was one major battle, at the end of a book, which was bloodless. All the fighting has been arguments.

What exactly is Frostpaw going to learn from the Park cats? How to be passive? Is that going to help RiverClan get rid of the occupying army? Will the power of mindfulness help them un-forget all of their battle training and remind them how to do their own laundry?

If (if.) The Erins have planned all this out, then what they're going to do next is have Frostpaw take what she's learned, and use it to help un-divide RiverClan.

Which TO BE CLEAR would be good for Frostpaw as a character!

But that's not addressing the violence of clan culture or even leaning into it. That wouldn't really be a cultural change, so much as Frostpaw having learned leadership skills... which, again, makes me wonder what the point of a culture frozen in time really was, when they blasted her with this super strong, unprecedented magic connection to StarClan.

Idk. Just, generally not vibing with this book if the spoiler thread is to be believed.

[gingermintpepper]

hey I hope you’re doing ok!! For the ask game, 🌈? Also perhaps ☔️?💧, even?

Hello hello, thank you for participating ☆ Once again, I can't comment on whether or not this extract is particularly fluffy but I do think it's rather sweet and it's definitely romantic so I think it's good for filling out both 🌈 and 💧!! It's an extract from what I've tentatively dubbed my 'Women and Apollo' doc which is essentially just a big running document I have dedicated to exploring themes and dynamics between Apollo and the women he's been entangled with! This extract in particular is from my Melia section 🥰

The night is a cold sheet spread across her shoulders. She wakes in pieces; first, her flesh, bracketed between the raw heat of Phoebus' bare chest and the sharp sting of the night air's fangs, then her mind, pleasure's fleeting haze quickly swept aside by panic then worry then guilt. What would Kaanthos say if he could see her now, bare breasted and stained in a male-god's desire? What would Father? No doubt she would have to cede the seat of the temple to Kaanthos. How could a carnal woman serve the people after all? And her river - oh, her sweet river! Would his waters even deign to soothe her scales when she was so completely drenched in the scent of a sky-god?

How foolish she's been, throwing everything away just because of some sweet words and a pretty face. Maybe Kaanthos truly did deserve the temple after all. Maybe Melia didn't deserve such a treasure if she was so easily seduced.

She sniffles softly, slipping gently from Phoebus' loose grip. His heat wafts off his skin like the warmth of a well-tended hearth, it lingers in her bones as she kneels in the grass of this unfamiliar field. It makes the sear of shame dig that much deeper into her heart. Phoebus had listened well to her warnings. He'd carried her someplace far away from flowing water, somewhere distant where her brother's scrying eyes could not reach. The tears welling in her eyes finally fall as she turns this way and that, utterly and completely lost without a source of water to follow. How could she return now? Even she was not bold enough to have the man she planned to reject take her back to her father's house.

Stupid girl. Foolish. How could she have been so short sighted?

"Melia?"

His voice is laden with sleep's husk, his arm makes little grabs at the grass searching for her shape. She swallows her tears and bids her voice to not betray her, "Here I am, my lord. You may go back to sleep."

The mildest furrow of his brow. When he turns his head, his hair flows like rich golden oil over the dark grass, "Come here," his hand keeps searching for hers, patting the ground, dragging long fingers over the dirt and frowning when he does not find her. "It is not yet morning, why have you fled so far from my side?"

Melia cannot help but laugh at his visage, clumsy and squinty-eyed, less the graceful gentleman who promised her a taste of change and more a bumbling kitten desperate for its mother's teat. She wipes her tears as quickly as she can muster, "If you but open your eyes, I'm certain you would find me."

He makes a grumbling noise, some cross between a boar's grunt and the crow's deep bellow, "Is this another of your games? I'm much too tired for games Melia." Finally, his finger grazes the edge of her ankle and like a child, he lights up, eyes still stubbornly closed but smile positively radiant, "Ah, there you are!" Diligently, he traces the shape of her leg with his open palm, measuring the smoothness of her calf, the swell of her knee, the broadness of her thigh, then he lays his head upon her, cheek pressed close to her stomach, heated back like warm coals against her skin. "So cool," he murmurs and kisses her stomach, throws his arm around her waist and nuzzles further into her skin, "Tell me when you've need of the water -" a dreadfully wide yawn interrupts him. "- I'll fetch it for you."

Melia finds herself laughing again, just a tiny thing as she runs her fingers through the thick waves of his hair. What is she to do now?

As for a fic idea I'd like to talk about since I don't know if I'll ever write it: Among the many, many, many things I'd like to write but probably never will, I really wish I could just sit down and write a story about Tenes and Hemithea. There's a lot of reasons why I have no plans to ever properly tackle anything regarding the Iliad - chief of which being that there's just too much information and the amount of research would be insane - but a lot of what I would potentially focus on have to deal with people and places Apollo loves and his inability to protect those things throughout the conflict starting with Tenes. I absolutely adore exploring Apollo's paternity in my writing and considering how fiersome Tenes was and how both he and Troilus would die protecting their sisters, I've just always wanted to dig into an exploration of their lives and connection with their father and how Tenes' death specifically would've affected Apollo. Like yeah, I know Troilus is usually the point of focus for such works especially because of the manner in which he was killed, but Tenes was also beloved! Also considering he was originally punished for being falsely accused of sexually assaulting his stepmother, I can't help but want to write his wrath when he realises what it is Achilles intends to do to Hemithea. Alas though, I don't think I'l ever get to do more than think longingly about it, at least right now lmao.

[sassafrasmoonshine]

Benjamin M. Dale, illustrator (American, 1889-1951) • Official program - Woman Suffrage Procession, Washington D.C. • 1913 • National Women’s History Museum

[jacquiarno]

It’s Bisexuality Visibility Month (also Suicide Awareness Month), and the biphobia has been constant and intense, even in our own bi spaces, mostly from fellow LGBTQIA+ people.

Bi women have been told they are tainted for being with men, that we are dirty and dick obsessed. We’ve been told we are perverted fetishists by both cis and trans lesbians, with even gay men joining in on the insults, with one even threatening violence towards bi women if they come near lesbians. We even got told we deserve to be abused, raped, and murdered by our male partners because that’s what we deserve for dating men.

Bi men are being accused again for being HIV carriers, with gay men saying they are only good for sex because they will end up leaving them for women. One trans man said he would kill himself if a man started dating a woman after him, not leave him for one but just start dating again and that person being a woman.

I haven’t seen insults directly about non-binary bisexuals, but I’m sure there would be and a lot of hate lumps us all together. All this hates stings me but I can’t imagine the pain of all this for non-binary, trans women, and trans men dealing with it all, and it makes me so disappointed and angry that fellow trans people in this community are hurting them.

Pride Month a lesbian wrote “I wish god would eradicate all the bisexuals” while another wrote “For Pride Month let all the bi people disappear” with both having thousands of likes and comments agreeing. Now during Bi Visibility Month, a non-binary lesbian with feminist in their profile posted “Happy bi visibility month, I hope they find a cure soon 💖”. While continuing to mock us after.

Our allies and so-called LGBTQIA+ advocates have been silent and have even participated in bierasure, laughing at us when we point it out, saying “It’s not that serious.” “Lol the bis are getting upset over nothing again”. Only the bisexual advocates and pages have spoken out against the hate.

The B in LGBTQIA+ is suppose to be for bisexual but this community says and treats us as awfully as the bigots do to all of us. Bisexual is the sexuality that is attracted to two or more genders, that we have the ability to love anyone regardless of their gender. But we’re treated as greedy, perverted, hyper sexual, unfaithful, which from bigots you understand and usually brush off, but from those within the community who go through similar prejudice and should understand, sharing the same ignorant mindset.

These spaces are suppose to be our safe havens as well, but are just as dangerous. We try making our own spaces and even that is invaded by these people, we are beyond exhausted. We need the other members of the community that aren’t biphobic to speak out more and shut these people and this hate down. Because the lack of empathy from this community is frightening and all this in-fighting will allow the bigots to pick us a part more easily.

[rosielindy]

I’m in line in Franklin, IN to vote early and a woman walked by wearing a Jezebel Spirit T-shirt. I told her I liked it. Gives me hope here in deep red Johnson County! LFG!!!!!