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1920s and 30s Orange Velvet Fashions

Orange, rust, or cinnamon – whatever the color name, it is exquisite and was very popular in both the 20s and the 30s.

William Rothenstein (1872-1945) • Gladys Calthrop • 1922

Yummy 1930s Gowns

1920's Formal Dresses

Alfred Egerton Cooper (British, 1883–1974) • Lady in Red Velvet • c. 1930

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Painting to Dress Match-up: a painted dress and its exact dress or a close match.

Alfred Stevens (French/British, 1823–1906) • Déjà (Already) • 1862-64 •

1860s day dress • Copper tafetta

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Portrait Beauties of Victorian England

All by Edward Hughes (British/English, 1832 - 1902)

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Japanese Insired Coats of the 1910s

Maison Amy Linker • Paris

A coat with a silhouette like an outer robe for kimono was described as a “manteau japonais” by fashion magazines of the time, and the silhouette of this particular coat is reminiscent of the “uchikake” robe worn by kabuki actors or oiran courtesans in ukiyoe prints. The boldly striped collar is probably inspired by the “date-eri” collar style used in kabuki costume. The flower-like motifs executed in embroidered beads look like the traditional “hanakatsumi” motif that became popular in late Edo-period Japan when favored by kabuki actors. In contrast, the motifs on the bordered panel on the back resemble motifs used around the Mediterranean in ancient times, and could reasonably be called palmettes. This coat is an excellent example of oriental-style wear packed with eclectic elements that were fashionable early in the 1910s. Maison Amy Linker opened in Paris in 1900, specializing particularly in coats and suits. Its latest products were frequently seen in French fashion magazines early in the 20th century. The house is perhaps best known for introducing sporty fashions in the 1920s.

Many of the era's most prominent designers created manteau Japonais. Below are a few more examples of Japanese inspired cocoon coats of the era.

Two Paul Poiret Japonaise manteau

Jean-Philippe Worth • c. 1910

Right: Jaques Ducet embellished house coat

Left: Mariano Fortuny kimono coat • 1910s

Evening coat • French • c. 1912

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1930s Knits

A topper with a lining matching the belted sweater. This outfit would work today! Makes me want to learn knitting.

Sleek and sophisticated pencil skirt and peplum sweater that gives the illusion of a jacket.

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The Bias Cut: A Revolution in the Fashion World of the 1930s

The curvaceous silhouettes of the 1930s became known for eccentuating the female form, as apposed to the loose styles of the 1920s which obscured it. Called the "bias cut", it was a departure from the traditional cut that followed the straight line of the weave. Instead, the fabric was cut at a 45 degree angle against the weave.

Madeleine Vionnet began using this technique in the late 1920s, and it became the silhouette that would define women's fashions in the 1930s as well.

Evening dresses by Madeleine Vionnet for Vogue magazine, photograph by Edward Steichen, 1930 • © Victoria and Albert Museum, London

Left: Slinky hammered silk evening dress inspired by Vionnet

Right: Madeleine Vionnet design

Evening ensemble • Design House Jessie Franklin • American c. 1930 • Metropolitan Museum of Art

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30s Rust

Judging by the many 1930s dresses and outfits Ive looked at, this was a very popular color. It's currently popular as well. One of my favorites.

Einar Jolin (Swedish, 1890 - 1976) • 1930s portrait

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A Selection of Sumptuous Opera Coats

Left: Art Deco Lame Broche Opera Coat with Japanese Mink collar and cuffs • 1920s • 1stDibs auction

Right: Abstract print lamé coat with sheared beaver fur and velvet collar • 1920s • Etsy

Design House Gallenga • Designer Maria Monaci Gallenga, Italian • Art Deco Lame Broche Opera Coat with Japanese Mink • 1926

Both coats – Designer: Callot Soeurs, French • ca. 1907

Liberty of London • Silk velvet and brocade opera coat • 1920s

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A Selection of 1930s Dresses

Right: Madeleine Vionnet day dress • 1933 • V &A, London

Left: House of Paquin (French, 1891–1956) • Early 1930s suit • Wool with leather trim

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The Pelisse

The pelisse is the quintessential women's outerwear garment of the early 19th century. Due to the nature of the fashions of the time, the pelisse had to be very fitted and tailored to better cover the insubstantial textile of the gowns underneath. Therefore they tended to be very fashionable and follow the lines of Empire dress. The historical references in the puffed sleeves and the military influences of the braid trim here are indicative of the time and masterfully executed in this example. The Empire silhouette is readily identified with its origins in the chiton of ancient Greco-Romans, which was a tubular garment draped from the shoulders and sometimes belted beneath the bust.

Designer unknown (English). Pelisse, ca. 1809. Silk. London: The Victoria & Albert Museum

The silk pelisse above has a high collar with a pleated design. It shows a simple but elegant amount of the dress underneath, including the small ruffle at the cuffs.

Pelisse coat and collar of brown silk taffeta with piping and appliqué details • V & A, London

Silk pelisse with scalloped collar trimmed in piping and fabric flower motif covered buttons • early 1820s • Metropolitan Museum of Art

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The Quintessential 20s Hairstyle: The Bob

The 1920s was an era that seems to have broken many of the golden rules of fashion. Loose, unstructured dresses with no waistline, masculine clothing styles, and short hair. The bob in particular is synonymous with the 1920s flapper. The new, freer woman embraced the ease and practicality the cut enabled. There were several variations of the bob, some of which you will find below.

Left: Louise Brooks epitomized the flapper girl with her pageboy bob

Right: An example of side-part "boyish" bob

Right: A longer, "windswept bob"

Left: Josephine Baker donning a "Eton crop"

A 1920s ad for women's hair products

Spit curls Finger curls

Shingle bob Wavy bob

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It's getting chilly, so let's crank up the Fashion History Time Machine and savor a few lovely jackets and a cape from the Victorian era.

Silk velvet jacket with jet beads • c. 1895 • Cohasset Historical Society, Cohasset, Massachusetts, U.S.

House of Worth • silk, jet beads, linen • c. 1890 • Metropolitan Museum of Art

This is an excellent example of late 19th-century dress imitating men's wear of the late 18th century. This Worth jacket eloquently imitates the silhouette and the ostentatious quality of court costume of the previous century. The extraordinary jet beadwork embroidery is stylized to represent the elaborate silk floss embroidery of the past to great effect. – Metropolitan Museum of Art

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Portrait Beauties of the 1930s

Rolf Armstrong (American, 1889 - 1960 ) • Mary Astor's Hollywood Portrait • 1938 • Pastel on illustration board

Bernard Boutet de Monvel (French, 1881 - 1949) • Delphine Boutet de Monvel, the Artist's Wife • 1936

Gerald Festus Kelly (British/English, 1879 - 1972) • Jane XXX • 1930

Frank O. Salisbury (British/English, 1874-1962) • Portrait of Marjorie Merriweather Post • 1934

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The Elegant, Stylish Women of Frederik Kaemmerer

Frederik Hendrik Kaemmerer (Dutch, 1839-1902)

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Paul Poiret (French, ) was one of the most influential fashion designers of the first half of the 20th century. He is credited with freeing women from the corset with his draped, unstructed styles that revolutionized the fashion world. Instead of tailoring, Poiret designed his fashions by draping and folding, creating unique pieces that echoed the traditional styles of the East. Art Deco fashion also became synonymous with Paul Poiret.

“Whenever I sign a garment with my name, I consider myself the creator of the masterpiece.” – Paul Poiret

Sorbet, created in 1912, is one of Poiret's signature designs. It was referred to as the "lampshade dress".

Poiret's first successful design was a kimono coat which he created while working for the design house of Jacques Doucet.

Left: Madame Poiret, Paul's wife, in 1912, wearing one his more bohemian creations

Right: Model wearing a Paul Poiret dress, 1914

Poiret's original designs and his ability to market his styles in new ways changed the fashion landscape forever. He designed outfits for film actresses, creating opportunities for his styles to be seen and credited beyond the runway. He was quite the bon vivant – a masterful host of events and parties that showcased his latest styles.

Fancy dress costume • 1911 • Metropolitan Museum of Art

The costume pictured above was influenced by the Russian dance company, Ballets Russes, when it performed in Paris. Poiret designed the costume for his 1002nd Night party in 1911, where it created tremendous publicity for his fashion house.

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Fancy Women in 30s Evening Gowns: A Selection of Portraits and a Gown

Maggy Rouff, designer • Evening dress in white Romaine crepe • 1931

Right: Albert Henry Collings (1868-1947) • Portrait of a Lady in an Evening Dress • 1930s

Left: George Spencer Watson (British, 1869 - 1934) • Dorothy • 1929

Alfred Reginald Thomson (British, 1894-1979) • Portrait of Mrs Vivienne Hilliard • 1934

Yellow Satin Evening Gown • 1930s • Augusta Auctions

Gerda Wegener (Danish, 1886 - 1940)

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Painting to Dress Match-up

Gustave Poetzsch (Swiss, 1870 - 1950) • Elegant Seated Woman with a Hat • 1905