#Belle époque fashion

[gogmstuff]

1908 (April issue) Les Modes - Costume tailleur (jupe sans couture) par Linker & Co - photo by Félix, del.. From gallica.bnf.fr; fixed spots & flaws w Pshop 1519X2209.

[resplendentoutfit]

Paul Poiret (French, ) was one of the most influential fashion designers of the first half of the 20th century. He is credited with freeing women from the corset with his draped, unstructed styles that revolutionized the fashion world. Instead of tailoring, Poiret designed his fashions by draping and folding, creating unique pieces that echoed the traditional styles of the East. Art Deco fashion also became synonymous with Paul Poiret.

“Whenever I sign a garment with my name, I consider myself the creator of the masterpiece.” – Paul Poiret

Sorbet, created in 1912, is one of Poiret's signature designs. It was referred to as the "lampshade dress".

Poiret's first successful design was a kimono coat which he created while working for the design house of Jacques Doucet.

Left: Madame Poiret, Paul's wife, in 1912, wearing one his more bohemian creations

Right: Model wearing a Paul Poiret dress, 1914

Poiret's original designs and his ability to market his styles in new ways changed the fashion landscape forever. He designed outfits for film actresses, creating opportunities for his styles to be seen and credited beyond the runway. He was quite the bon vivant – a masterful host of events and parties that showcased his latest styles.

Fancy dress costume • 1911 • Metropolitan Museum of Art

The costume pictured above was influenced by the Russian dance company, Ballets Russes, when it performed in Paris. Poiret designed the costume for his 1002nd Night party in 1911, where it created tremendous publicity for his fashion house.

[frostedmagnolias]

Day Dress

c. 1907

Canadian Museum of History

[inky-duchess]

Etiquette of the Edwardian Era and La Belle Époque: How to Dress

This is a new set of posts focusing on the period of time stretching from the late 19th century to the early 20th Century right up to the start of WWI.

I'll be going through different aspects of life. This series can be linked to my Great House series as well as my Season post and Debutant post.

Today will be focusing on the rules of clothes with this time period.

A Cut for Every Occasion

As you may know, the wealthy elite and their servants lived extremely regimented lives and every aspect was governed by careful rules. They would be expected to wear the right outfit at the right time, every minute of the day. Any misstep would be noticed at once and be subject to scruntiny.

In the circles of the elite, one would be expected to change for every occasion. One simply wouldn't wear the same outfit they've been lying around the house in to attend tea at somebody's house. Fashion in this era was dictated by the clock and by the event diary of the wearer.

Ladies

Women of the upperclass would be expected to change at least six times a day. When she would rise for a morning of repose around the house, she would simply wear a house gown or a simple blouse and skirt. If planning a morning stroll, she would change into a walking suit which is a combination of blouse, skirt and jacket along with her hat usually of tweed. If running errands or paying a visit to friends, she would wear another walking suit. If riding, she would wear a riding habit and a hat. If hosting tea or taking tea in her own home, she would change into a tea gown with is a lighter more airier gown more comfortable for chilling in. If attending a garden party, one wears a pastel or white formal day gown accompanied by a straw hat and gloves. For dinner, she would change into an evening gown which would be more elaborate and show off a little more skin than her day wear. After dinner and ready for bed, she would change into her nightgown.

Female servants had an easier time of it. A housekeeper and lady's maid would simply wear a solid black gown for the entire day. A cook and kitchen maids would wear a simple day dress for working with an apron. Housemaids would usually wear a print dress with an apron and cap, changing into the more formal black and white attire you would associate with a maid.

Gentlemen

The gentlemen had an easier time but they too were subject to changes throughout the day. Men were expected to wear a suit. The most popular day time suit was a sack suit. These were comprised of plain and loose fitting jackets, worn over a starched shirt with a high collar, waistcoat and straight trousers with ironed creases. These suits were exclusively wool with cheaper ones made of a wool and cotton blend. Grey, green, brown, navy were usual but sine younger men preferred louder colours such as purple which was a trend for a time in the 1910s. These suits were worn about the house or in the city accompanied by a coat. Men would change into tweed if shooting or walking. For garden parties, a gentleman would wear a light coloured suit, usually white and a straw hat. For dinner, a man had two choices: his tails or his dinner jacket. A dinner jacket was for less formal suppers say if dining at home. This was a collection of a jacket, trousers, waistcoat, a bow tie, a detachable wing-collar shirt and black shoes. Lapels of these jackets were edged with silk or satin. Tails were worn at a formal dinner party, at White Tie events. This was made up of a tailcoat, white piqué waistcoat, a starched dress shirt with a pique bib and standing wing collar with a white bow tie. Trousers were lined with trim to hide the seams.

Male servants were soared changing. Footmen would wear their livery around the clock which would resemble white tie to a certain extent or mimic court dress of palace servants. Butler's would wear a variation of a gentleman's evening suit throughout the day. When a male servant is dressed, he usually stays that way. However, a valet or a footman may be taken to pick up during shooting parties where they would wear tweed walking suits.

Jewellery

Jewellery was an important sign of status in society. Upperclass women of this time has access to untold caches of sparklers but there were rules concerning their use and meaning. Earrings were usually clip ons as women of high status would not pierce their ears. Simple, understated earrings were worn during the day with more ostentatious sets were worn in the evening time. Broaches were popular at this time, usually worn at the throat of a gown or blouse or walking suit or affixed on hats. Large stoned rings were worn over gloves while slender bands were worn under. Jewellery was intricate and understated amongst old money whole the nouveau riche went for chunkier stones and larger settings. Tiaras were only worn at White Tie events, held after six pm and almost never by unmarried girls. One would not wear a larger tiara than that most senior lady present. Men would wear tie pins, cufflinks and pocket watches to match any occasion be it for a jaunt on the town or at a formal evening party.

Hats

Hats were a staple in this period. Anybody respectable from any class wouldn't venture out of the door without a hat.

Men would wear hats when heading out but always remove them when entering a building, and never wear one without removing it for the presence of a lady. The bowler was seen as more a servant's headwear while a top hat was reserved for gentlemen. Flat caps would be only seen on gentlemen at shooting gatherings or in the country, they were popular among the common class for any informal occasion.

Women had more stricter rules concern hats. Hats for women were more a day accessory worn while out and about. A woman would not wear a hat in her own home even when entertaining and nor would any of the other female occupants if joining the gathering. A woman would not remove her hat when attending a luncheon or tea or any activity. Hats were held in place by a ribbon or sash tied under the chin or by a hat pin, which is essentially a large needle thrust through the hair. This was the period where women's hats became more ornate and rather large, leading to some critisism. Among servants, housekeepers and lady's maids would not wear a hat while indoors and working but a housemaid or cook or kitchen maid would cover their hair with a cap with housemaids changing into a more elaborate one come evening time. Male servants would not wear hats unless travelling or outdoors.

Gloves

Gloves are a staple in this period and worn only at the opportune time. Among servants, only footmen would wear gloves and usually only when serving. Butlers would never wear gloves. Female servants did not wear gloves.

Men did wear gloves, usually woollen or leather while outside or riding gloves when out on horseback.

Women wore gloves whenever outside. Day gloves were usually wrist length, with evening gloves stretching to the elbow. During dinner, evening gloves would be removed at the first course and laid across the lap, replaced at the last course when the ladies leave for tea and coffee after where the gloves are then removed again. Gloves are always worn when dancing and at the theatre or opera. If one is sitting in ones box and sampling some chocolate, one can remove their gloves for that.

Hair and Makeup

Make up was a no-no amongst the upper crust and for their servants in England and America, as it was seen as licentious but in France, the use of rouge was accepted. Perfume and cologne were acceptable but excessive use was frowned upon.

Hair was dressed by one's lady's maid. Bouffant updos were popular in this time period for married women. During the last years of this period, women began adopting the 'bob' but this was seen as radical and sometimes scandalous. Unmarried girls could wear their hair down, often with accessories like a bow to adorn their tresses. Servants would always tie up their hair and never be seen with it down or uncovered (though this depended on their job).

Men would comb their hair, slicking it back for dinner. Most men were clean shaven but if they wore beards, they were usually well groomed. Hair was kept short for grown men and teenagers but young boys may wear their hair longer whilst in the nursery.

[walzerjahrhundert]

Mme Chamas, 66 Rue des Petits Champs, Paris

day dress

France, 1890-1892

[designedandplated]

Women's Red and Black Day Dress, 1897.

[eirene]

Scène Du Bal Jean Béraud

[merakiui]

out of curiosity i listened to steampianists ‘the botanist’ that you talked about in the tags of my last ask…it really is perfect for rollo. my god. i can imagine him going to great lengths to ensure his love blooms with his darling. if you ever write that fic ill print it out and tape it to my walls. rollo and the two? fics youve written live rent free in my brain and im composing a playlist for him now. i am. in deep.

-pot roast brain anon from a couple days ago

Pot roast anon, hello!!!!!! >w< omg I'm so happy you listened to the song and agree that it suits Rollo!!! The story is so eerily visceral. I love it so much. "The Detective" is the sequel to "The Botanist" and it involves the singer (the detective) trying to solve the murders committed by the botanist, but in the process he's interrupted by the scientist from "Black Hole" after she brings on the end of the world with her experiment! I adore Steam's work. Every song is so good. orz

I love these lyrics from "The Botanist":

A lady who is allergic to flowers and a botanist who is allergic to humans,,, waaaa it's such a yummy concept!!! Rollo who is allergic to humans (magic) falling for a darling who is so in tune with their magic...... and the way the gloves go from green to red over the course of the song, indicating that something dire happened to the lady (it's revealed in "The Detective" that the botanist would remove the hearts of the women he kidnapped). The symbolism in making someone or something bloom. Rollo whose talent is literally gardening. Rollo who cared for and grew the Crimson Lotus........ I LOVE HIM SO MUCH. OTL he really does feel like the botanist character in the song.

ALSO!!!! The way the lyrics transition from "passionate for flowers" to "passionate for a flower." Going from plural to singular as this flower (the lady) fills the botanist's heart with some sort of crooked adoration. A darling couldn't fix Rollo. In fact, you would just make him worse (more obsessed) unintentionally. >_< I really want to write a fic inspired by this song for Rollo!!! It suits him so well. I'm happy you would want to read a fic like that!! <3

I've only written three fics for Rollo so far (The Diary of Rollo Flamme, Eden, and Crow & Goat in Courtship), but it's not nearly enough. He was so crazy during his confrontation with Malleus, Idia, and Azul in Glomas. The way he actively tried to strike Malleus down????? AAAAAAA. Unfortunately, Rollo will indeed strike him down in the dead dove fic I have planned. ;;;; he's scary,,,,

I think "The Botanist" could also suit Jade if I'm writing him as the clinically detached type (like in Monops's Reflection), but I need to get the eels out of my brain. T^T

[emotionally-charged-arson]

Transitus Comic Studies

These were meant to be colored but alas. Faulty art supplies. Still like these sketches though! They’re lifted from the OG comic book. The idea was to only use direct poses and scenes from the source material and try to infuse some more productive character design into them.

Focus on status of a given character (and changes in it) and some stronger air of historical reference, kept as far away from my own personal head canons of the characters and their backstories as possible.

Really had fun with these. Great figure practice ✏️

[stellaluna33]

We had a lovely night at the ball! And here's the (almost) finished dress! I also made Husband's waistcoat and tie. I was still sewing the day of the event and we arrived very late. 😆. But it was totally worth it. (The drink in the lower left corner is a cocktail made with absinthe and champagne, and was garnished with fresh violets)

[imaginependragonson]

Midnight Blue Riding Habit

c. 1888 - 1890

United States of America

Wool with Lace Trim

Christie's

[gogmstuff]

1908 (September) Les Modes - Robe d'interieur par Paquin - photo by Reutlinger. From gallica.bnf.fr; fixed spots & flaws w Pshop 1386X2081.

[resplendentoutfit]

Oscar Bluhm (German, 1867–1912) • Soirée • 1907

This painting, dated 1907, depicts a social event with the two main female figures – the one standing with a gentleman, the other sitting with her back to the viewer – are wearing rather risqué dresses for the Edwardian era.

I like the painting, so I thought I'd use it as a springboard to discuss its atypical choice of dresses for the era. What's mostly seen in Edwardian evening attire, circa 1907, looks like this:

Plenty of lace, yes but generally not sleeveless or cut too low in front or back. Drapey, sheer panels and wraps were popular, as shown in the image on the left. On the right we see a dress with an S silhouette, which lasted only a couple of years and gave way to the more relaxed fashions depicted in the left image.

I did, however, find several photographs of actresses from the early 1900s who are wearing what we now call "bodycon" dresses; curve-hugging, sleeveless or off-shoulder, and low-cut.

The actress on the right is Ethel Barrymore.

So perhaps the women depicted in the painting are actresses, daring socialites, or escorts.

[frostedmagnolias]

Evening Dress

c. 1913-1915

Franklin Simon Co.

Canadian Museum of History

[monkeyssalad-blog]

McCall Patterns, The Three Smart Silhouettes, 1914. by Halloween HJB

[czolgosz]

currently in the trenches trying to make some historical characters in dress-up games