#era: belle époque

[designedandplated]

Women's Red and Black Day Dress, 1897.

[frostedmagnolias]

Evening Dress

c. 1913-1915

Franklin Simon Co.

Canadian Museum of History

[inky-duchess]

Etiquette of the Edwardian Era and La Belle Époque: A Day in the Life of a Socialite

This is a new set of posts focusing on the period of time stretching from the late 19th century to the early 20th Century right up to the start of WWI. I'll be going through different aspects of life. This series can be linked to my Great House series as well as my Season post and Debutant post.

The socialite depending on her rank and country of origin, is the heart of the social world within this time period. It is she who hosts grand balls, attends them, hosts dinners where couples fall in love. But what does she get up to on a regular day?

Morning

The morning of the socialite usually began early - if she hadn't attended or hosted a ball the night before. Around 9, the Socialite would be awoken by the arrival of her hot water by her lady's maid. If she was married, she would have the luxury of staying in bed to eat breakfast. After she has eaten, she would ring for her lady's maid to help her dress. If she is not married, she would dress first and head downstairs and have breakfast with her unmarried sisters, her brothers and father. After breakfast, the married socialite would withdraw to her business of the day, such as meeting with the chef to discuss menus for the following days. She might look over paperwork and letters concerning the house, her social circle and for charities she supports. The unmarried Socialite might just jump straight into her charity work.

Midday - Afternoon

Luncheon would be served around 1. After luncheon, the ladies of the house may travel to appointments such as fittings or paying calls to friends. Paying calls means dropping in, leaving one's card at the door and being admitted for a chat or some tea. Unmarried socialites might be attended by a lady's maid. Socialites may attend charity meetings, board meetings at this time. Tea would be served around four. After the tea is finished, the children would be brought down to spend time with their mother. This might be the only time a Socialite mother saw her children.

Evening

On a quiet evening at home, around 8, the butler would signal the start of supper giving the family and any staying guests, 15mins or more to get ready. Lady's maids would already be upstairs at this point, helping their mistress with dressing. When the Socialite head downstairs, linger in the drawing room to chat with the family snf any guests they might have. She would withdraw to the drawing room for coffee and tea with the other ladies while the men stay in the dining room to drink and smoke. When the men have finished, they join the ladies before going up to bed for cards and such.

On evenings, she would be a guest, she would repeat most of the steps above but instead, travel to dinner in her carriage. She would arrive, be announced and then escorted to the salon to greet her hostess and her fellow guests. If unaccompanied, she would be accompanied to dinner by an eligible male guest who is know to her. She wouldn't stay over if she's unmarried but head home afterwards.

On evenings that she's hosting an event (must married), she would repeat all the steps from a quiet night at home but everything would be larger, grander. She would be downstairs early to see to the details, waisting in the drawing room to greet her guests.

Hobbies

Socialites don't work so they will usually spend their day keeping busy. Married Socialites of course have a household and family to run. But all Socialites had an array of hobbies to keep herself occupied. As mentioned before, a socialite would patron charities. These usually involved little to no actual labour, it was more about raising awareness, raising money and occasionally visiting - often censored - the places they were supporting. The socialite would often spend the day shopping, this was the era of the rise of the department store. She would also attend a dressmaker's for fittings and consultations. She might enjoy physical pursuits like tennis, horseback riding or taking the air, all of these will of course be moderate hobbies. Watercolours, music and embroidery were popular hobbies of the time.

[innocentscemetery]

1900 Paris World's Fair.

Photo Léon & Lévy.

[empirearchives]

François Flameng: Scenes from Napoleon’s time

Spot Napoleon in all but one 🤓

[merakiui]

out of curiosity i listened to steampianists ‘the botanist’ that you talked about in the tags of my last ask…it really is perfect for rollo. my god. i can imagine him going to great lengths to ensure his love blooms with his darling. if you ever write that fic ill print it out and tape it to my walls. rollo and the two? fics youve written live rent free in my brain and im composing a playlist for him now. i am. in deep.

-pot roast brain anon from a couple days ago

Pot roast anon, hello!!!!!! >w< omg I'm so happy you listened to the song and agree that it suits Rollo!!! The story is so eerily visceral. I love it so much. "The Detective" is the sequel to "The Botanist" and it involves the singer (the detective) trying to solve the murders committed by the botanist, but in the process he's interrupted by the scientist from "Black Hole" after she brings on the end of the world with her experiment! I adore Steam's work. Every song is so good. orz

I love these lyrics from "The Botanist":

A lady who is allergic to flowers and a botanist who is allergic to humans,,, waaaa it's such a yummy concept!!! Rollo who is allergic to humans (magic) falling for a darling who is so in tune with their magic...... and the way the gloves go from green to red over the course of the song, indicating that something dire happened to the lady (it's revealed in "The Detective" that the botanist would remove the hearts of the women he kidnapped). The symbolism in making someone or something bloom. Rollo whose talent is literally gardening. Rollo who cared for and grew the Crimson Lotus........ I LOVE HIM SO MUCH. OTL he really does feel like the botanist character in the song.

ALSO!!!! The way the lyrics transition from "passionate for flowers" to "passionate for a flower." Going from plural to singular as this flower (the lady) fills the botanist's heart with some sort of crooked adoration. A darling couldn't fix Rollo. In fact, you would just make him worse (more obsessed) unintentionally. >_< I really want to write a fic inspired by this song for Rollo!!! It suits him so well. I'm happy you would want to read a fic like that!! <3

I've only written three fics for Rollo so far (The Diary of Rollo Flamme, Eden, and Crow & Goat in Courtship), but it's not nearly enough. He was so crazy during his confrontation with Malleus, Idia, and Azul in Glomas. The way he actively tried to strike Malleus down????? AAAAAAA. Unfortunately, Rollo will indeed strike him down in the dead dove fic I have planned. ;;;; he's scary,,,,

I think "The Botanist" could also suit Jade if I'm writing him as the clinically detached type (like in Monops's Reflection), but I need to get the eels out of my brain. T^T

[emotionally-charged-arson]

Style test. March 1883, featuring a deep cut Ayreon reference.

When you’re at a party in the city most associated with your childhood misery but the drip is on point. 🔥

[misscromwellsmonocle]

La Goulue (Photos: 1885-90)

Louise Weber, born on July 12, 1866, was a pivotal figure in the realm of can-can. The dance style gained immense popularity, particularly in Paris during the late 19th century. Louise, better known as La Goulue, quickly became an iconic figure of her time.

La Goulue (The Glutton) earned her stagename when she "dried the bottoms of glasses in cabarets." This audacious behavior became synonymous with her fame, contributing to her larger-than-life persona. Her vibrant personality shone both on and off the stage, captivating audiences with her performances filled with enthusiasm and charme.

Legend has it that during a wild performance, La Goulue caught sight of the Prince of Wales nestled between two wheels, as he had come incognito to enjoy the evening at the Moulin Rouge. She allegedly called out: "Are you paying for the champagne? Is it you who invites or is it your mother who treats?"

Her style of fashion was characterized by flamboyant outfits, featuring voluminous petticoats, feathery embellishments, and captivating corsets. She had perfected her leg kicks to such an extent that she could score with calculated glimpses: The insatiable dancer had embroidered a small red heart into the crotch of her slip, which became a sensation and a coveted reward for the gentlemen of her choice.

One can only imagine the scandals, buzz and gossip that surrounded her during the Belle Époque in Paris.

[mote-historie]

Cléo de Mérode in dance dress, Photo by Leopold Reutlinger, Paris, France, 1901.

Cléopatra Diane de Mérode (French, 1875-1966) was a dancer of the Belle Époque era.

[benzodiazepinica]

The murder that started a World War

true crime in history

The Great War represents a rupture from a classical world to a contemporary one. Most of the empires fell, giving origin to republic systems.

Before World War (I), Europe lived through a great era, the Belle Époque, a period of prosperity for most countries. Germany and Italy just emerged as Nations after their unifications, and the rest of Europe enjoyed the power they had exploring Africa and Asia.

However, imperialism turned on a problem. The dispute between capitalist countries for lands in the African and Asian continents for the exploitation of wealth, generated problems between the great powers of the time. Each Nation wanted to expand more and more, wanted to dominate more and more, to show itself strong and stand out among the others

Not only that, but economic disputes led to feelings of pride and anger between countries. Germany, a newly formed nation at the time, quickly became a great power. It was highly industrialized, with several colonies on other continents and even surpassed England, which was the greatest economic power at the time. Past territorial disputes also directly affected the conflict: the French and Germans fought over the land of Alsace-Lorraine, which was rich in minerals. The Russians and other nations fought with Germany over oil and other minerals that were abundant in the Middle East.

The French people's feeling of revenge was heightened by having lost the Franco-Prussian War (a war in which small territories formed Germany and took French parts for themselves). Other countries from Europe also were "mad" with Germany because Germany was becoming very powerful, which angered them, as the Germans threatened the sovereignty of other countries and were also a new country.

All the European powers were at odds with each other and defending themselves and also planning to attack. They all knew that something bigger was coming, something beyond what they could have imagined, so the countries began to invest in war arsenals and invest in defense, hoping that some major disagreement would happen so that they could actually declare war.

In this scenario, a nationalist movement gained strength among the Serbs, who sought the union of the peoples of Slavic origin who lived in the Balkans and, because of imperialism, were under the rule of Austria-Hungary. The objective was to form Greater Serbia, as a kind of new country. Russia, a very large country, was clearly interested in controlling the Balkan region, so it supported this move in order to remove Austro-Hungary from the region and then take over there.

One of these nationalist organizations gained prominence: The Black Hand. It was in this context that the figure of Gravilo Princip emerged.

Gravilo Princip, his revolt, his courage: Where could this lead?

Born in Oblej, Bosnia, Gavrilo was the son of Maria and the postman Petar, both of Serbian descent. When he reached the age of 13, Gavrilo decided to live in the capital, Sarajevo, to continue his studies. Initially, he joined a military institution, but later chose to enroll in a technical course in administration. In 1910, Princip decided to finish his intermediate education in Tuzla, a city in Serbia.

When Gavrilo lived in Serbia, the representation of the Pan-Slavist ideal was carried out by an organization called “Unification or Death”, also known as the “Black Hand”. With each passing day, the young student became more and more emphatic in his sympathy for nationalist ideals and his unwavering devotion to the mission of ending Austro-Hungarian influence in the Balkan Peninsula. To this end, Gavrilo believed it was necessary to end the life of Franz Ferdinand, heir to the Austro-Hungarian Empire.

In June 1914, Franz Ferdinand was on the streets of Sarajevo inspecting the activities of the Austro-Hungarian military forces. Concerned with demonstrating superiority, Franz Ferdinand chose June 28th for the inspection, the date on which Serbian national day is celebrated.

Attentive to the Archduke's official visit, the Black Hand offered pistols, grenades and approximately two months of military training. During this period, Gavrilo excelled in shooting and Nedjelko Cabrinovic was one of the best grenade throwers. When the long-awaited June 28 arrived, Gavrilo and his companions spread out strategically along Appel Quay Street, one of the streets crossed by Franz Ferdinand's entourage.

While the Archduke was driving in the car with his wife, a first assassination attempt was made. A young man threw a grenade at the car, but the driver managed to dodge it. This young man, Cabrinovic took a dose of cyanide and threw himself into the Miljacka River, following orders from his superiors. His suicide attempt was also unsuccessful. The poison did not have the desired effect and the river was not deep enough for him to drown. As a result, the terrorist was arrested by local authorities and his accomplices decided to disperse. It was then that the Archduke and his wife insisted that they change their route and stop at the hospital where the injured from the attempted attack were being treated. Then they could return to the palace.

It was 11 a.m., and Gavrilo was in a bakery when the entourage carrying the heir to the Austro-Hungarian Empire began to pass him. More than that: when the royal car practically stopped in front of him, it began to be pushed in another direction manually. Realizing that this was his best chance to go ahead with the plan to assassinate the nobleman, the young Serbian student pulled out his pistol FN model 1910. As he later revealed, he had not even aimed before shooting. On the contrary: he looked the other way. Despite all this, however, he was able to shoot both the archduke and his wife fatally. Ferdinand was hit in the jugular, while Sophia was shot in the abdomen, and both died within half an hour. The archduke's last words were in response to the count who was traveling with them.

At his trial, Gavrilo Princip stated: "I am a Yugoslav nationalist, aiming at the unification of all Yugoslavs, and I do not care what form of state it is, but it must be free of Austria." Princip was spared the death penalty due to his age (19) and was sentenced to 20 years in prison. He was imprisoned in Terezín Fortress, where he received a life sentence, but died a few years later of tuberculosis.

The trigger for a great war

Although Serbia itself stated that the government was not part of this terrorist attack, Austria-Hungary, with the support of Germany, declared war on Serbia because of the event. This was the trigger for a conflict that had been "postponed" and expected for a long time. The nations, all in conflict and disagreements, were already armed and prepared for anything that would be worthy enough to start a war, such as, in this case, an assassination. Some nations with similar interests joined together, thus forming the Triple Alliance (Germany, Austria-Hungary and Italy) and the Triple Entente (United Kingdom, France and Russia, defending Serbia).

The First World War, a true massacre

The war took place on the European continent and, apart from the Scandinavian countries, the Netherlands, Switzerland and Spain, all other European countries participated in the war. Some American countries, such as the United States of America and Brazil, later entered the great conflict.

developments of the War

In the first months, the troops' strategy was to move and occupy the fronts, since the war began in June 1914. The first phase lasted 6 months; it was in 1915 that the direct and most violent attacks began. This first part was marked by movement and attempts to occupy territories, such as the Battle of Morne, where the Germans came within 40 meters of Paris.

The second phase is marked by the popular trenches. The forces on both sides were very balanced, the solution was to dig trenches and from there try to advance or maintain the position on the ground. The trenches were used for both attack and defense. They had fences 2 meters or more deep. Between the trench lines there was a space called "no man's land". Passing through this area meant being shot at from all sides. In fact, sticking your head out of the trench could cost a soldier his life.

The attackers would drop bombs from their cannons or the aviators would machine-gun the enemy lines. Poison gas, such as mustard gas, would also be used. This action would last for hours or even days. Only after this, this first massacre, would the officers order the soldiers to advance towards the enemy trench, where they would fight with the survivors of the attacks. Even then, the success of the attack was not guaranteed.

To meet the needs of the war, industries were forced to develop. The demand for weapons promoted intense industrial production and, consequently, the improvement of products. Machine guns, bombers, tanks and submarines were created.

To support the walls, it was necessary to shore up the wood with earth. Living conditions in the trenches were terrible, as they were flooded with snow and rain. The soldiers lived with corpses, lice and rat infestations, which led to the spread of numerous diseases. There was not enough food for everyone, nor water. Bathing and quality sleep were also completely scarce.

Due to the Russian Revolution, Russia abandoned the conflict, signing a peace agreement with the Germans. The United States, until then "neutral", joined the Triple Entente. Because it joined at the end and was located on another continent, nothing too devastating happened to them, which even led to them becoming a world power during and after the war.

In October 1918, the situation in Germany was dire. The Austrians and Turks had surrendered, Italy had switched sides, and the Triple Entente troops were close to German territory. The German population began to protest against remaining in the war. A civilian took power in Germany and signed the surrender. In 1919, the victorious nations called a conference in Versailles to ensure peace in Europe and punish Germany, which, having been the last to surrender, was considered guilty of the war and forced to sign the Treaty of Versailles. This treaty defined that Germany should pay a high financial indemnity to the Triple Entente, and guaranteed that Germany would lose overseas territories and would be demilitarized. The Treaty of Versailles officially marked the end of World War I.

Interesting facts about the First World War

The conflict is the sixth with the highest number of deaths in history.

The Spanish Flu was responsible for the death of approximately 1/3 of all military personnel who lost their lives during the war.

Dogs were widely used as messengers, carrying orders to the battle fronts through capsules that were attached to their bodies.

World War I sparked the development of plastic surgery, and the first blood banks were also created during the conflict.

In December 1914, soldiers of the British Expeditionary Force heard German soldiers entrenched in Frelinghien, France, singing Christmas carols and saw that officers had placed small lanterns and Christmas trees along the trenches. The men of both armies began exchanging messages, and the next day they all agreed to declare an informal truce, spending the day in each other’s company. During the truce, the soldiers exchanged gifts, played football and took photos together. The day has become one of the most emotional memories of the First World War, a moment when enemies allowed compassion to triumph over political differences.

[pmamtraveller]

JULIUS LEBLANC STEWART - REDEMPTION, 1905

Stewart gained fame for his paintings that showcased the Belle Époque era in Paris, France, a time of flourishing arts due to prosperity and wealth. Stewart, an American citizen, lived abroad in Paris for his entire adult life. While Stewart usually depicted his friends in the upper circles of Parisian society, this artwork shows his desire to pursue artistic goals beyond just portraits.

In the painting, Stewart contrasts the woman in white, who has recently repented of her sins as a prostitute and is now virtuous, with Mary Magdalene and the rest of the crowd. The image of Jesus on the cross in the background and the title of this art piece suggest that her soul has been saved.

Her almost claw-like left hand tightly holds onto the table, which is scattered with the remnants of her previous lifestyle. The man on the right is making advances towards the woman in black, whose dress reflects her inner essence. In the background, a woman is openly smoking in a group of people of different genders.

There was an increasing trend of disapproval towards the decadence of the Belle Époque. The increasing wealth led to more relaxed moral standards. Despite being part of the group he was criticizing, Stewart later in his life utilized his art, like this painting, to address that same theme.

[designedandplated]

Women's Purple Day Dress, 1880.

[frostedmagnolias]

Evening Dress

c. 1912-1914

Canadian Museum of History

[inky-duchess]

Etiquette of the Edwardian Era and La Belle Époque: Courting

This is a new set of posts focusing on the period of time stretching from the late 19th century to the early 20th Century right up to the start of WWI. I'll be going through different aspects of life. This series can be linked to my Great House series as well as my Season post and Debutant post.

I get asked a lot about courting, what's acceptable or what's off limits and how one may woo a prospective spouse. So let's explore how to win the hand and heart.

Meeting (not so cute?)

Firstly, it is really difficult to have a meet cute in the Edwardian era. Women and men are kept separate for most of the day, only really getting to meet at designated events: A dinner, a ball, a social event. Meeting in the park is a cute idea but a gentleman can't just approach a lady (or another gentleman) without being introduced by a third party, either a senior party or a mutual friend. However, an introduction at a ball is sort of like Cinderella's get up, it ceases to matter when the ball is over. Your gentleman must not approach a lady after that ball, he must be reintroduced. Once an introduction has been made, he can speak with her.

An Interest

When an introduction has gone satisfactory, a gentleman must make the first move by calling to her parents'/guardian's home and making a formal request to begin courting. Her parents/guardians must consent, usually leading to a short brief interview of the gentleman's family, his connections, his wealth (though in not so vulgar terms, they may inquire where he lives which is an indicator). The woman's opinion did matter, she could give her reasons for accepting or turning down the offer. When the interest is approved, the gentleman can start offering invitations.

Three's Company

Of course, just because the parents agree, doesn't mean the couple gets to be alone. The young lady will be accompanied by a chaperone either a lady's maid, a governess, her mother or another female relative. While the couple is together, the chaperone will always be a few steps behind or have them in sight. She's there to ensure that nothing more than a conversation happens. This is not only for her young lady's reputation but also to save the man from any claims of impropriety. The chaperone also serves as a sort of spy, gauging whether this relationship is worth pursuing.

Activities & Tokens

A gentleman may invite a lady out to lots of different activities. He can invite her for a promenade at a local park or gardens, out the theatre, visit her at home, invite her to galleries, to balls or to be his companion at sporting events such as the races, tennis matches or boat races. When visiting in the house, the gentleman would be expected to speak with all the family, be polite and courteous. This is how the family guages his suitably. The gentleman must provide transportation and funds for any excursion. Gifts are to be refined as well. Expensive gifts are considered vulgar and will likely be turned down. Small gifts such as flowers, books, cakes are acceptable. Gifts aren't as important as the time spent together.

Rules of Engagement

There are certain unspoken rules surrounding courtship that every gentlemen must follow for a successful courtship:

A gentleman should always pay attention to his lady, and not exclude her or cast her off for others

A gentleman never smokes in front of his lady nor forget to remove his hat.

A gentleman must always offer to refresh his lady on an excursion

A gentleman must defend his lady from any offense be it an insult or a scene unfit for her eyes or within an argument. Throwing in an apology for any offense can add a cherry on top.

However if she's the one giving offense, without any reason, the gentleman must seek to create peace, apologising on her behalf.

When walking, a lady will be placed in the inside of the pavement.

A gentleman should never spend above his means to impress his lady. Staying within his means is not only smart but a show of restraint and a glimpse of what life ought to be if they marry.

A gentleman should always offer his assistance when a lady is exiting a carriage or going up a flight of steps or carrying anything heavy.

If a man accompanies a woman to a ball, he's expected to dance with her on her first and last dances of the evening.

A gentleman must always make his intentions known and not string a lady along with no intention of marriage. He must never joke about his intentions or lead her on.

Marriage

Courtship usually promises marriage which is why a gentleman or lady should not enter into courtship unless they would consider marriage. Courtship may last a few months or a few weeks and while it is going on, both sides should consider whether marriage would be a viable option of either of them. Parents/guardians would be consulted, the gentleman must make his intentions known to her father or nearest male relative before approaching the lady and popping the question. A courtship that doesn't end in marriage is seen as a failure and may damage the reputation of both parties, leading people to wonder what happened and who is to blame. For example is a perfectly eligible gentleman will not marry a perfectly eligible lady or she turns down his offer, people will usually leap to the conclusion that there is something lacking.

LGBTQIA+ Courting

Gay people have always been here. They have courted and they have loved. Whilst it was illegal in this time in many parts of the world, love did prevail. (fun fact: lesbianism wasn't illegal because nobody wanted to explain what it was to Queen Victoria). The good thing to know is that courting whilst gay was likely easier in this period. Whilst there were restrictions and rules for straight couples and chaperones haunted their every step, none of this would happen if two people of the same gender stepped out together. Two gentleman going to the opera together or dining at a restaurant or attending a ball together (dancing in public was unlikely) or two ladies promenading in the park or attending a concert would not be examined like a courting couple. They would have more freedom to move around but of course, with legal impediments PDA was kept a minium. Whilst they wouldn't be allowed to marry legally, there was little stopping couples from moving in together. Nobody would say much about two spinsters sharing a home or two bachelors crashing together

[innocentscemetery]

Geneviève Vix as Circe, photographed by Léopold Reutlinger c. 1907.

Source : @die-rosastrasse / @gretagarbos

[empirearchives]

Top: Café Frascati in Paris, 1807, by Philibert-Louis Debucourt

Bottom: Café Frascati (A Scene From Napoleon's Time), 1893, by François Flameng

During the Premier Empire, the Frascati establishment, named after a famous Neapolitan ice-cream maker, was one of the most popular venues in Paris. First of all, it had a delightful garden, decorated with the busts of the greatest French and English poets, and lit up at night. A tunnel of wisteria and maiden vine, known as “l’ermitage” (the retreat), lent a charming atmosphere to the scene. The house was used as a café and salon de pâtisserie. On the ground floor it offered refreshments and some of the best ice-cream in Paris, with ballrooms. On the first floor were gaming rooms. Paris’s smartest set flocked here to spend the pleasant summer evenings.

The Maison Frascati closed at the Restoration, following the law closing down gaming rooms. (Source)