#stitchmarker

[petunia-viola]

Aurora, Maleficent and three fairies #etsy: Fate Flora Fauna Serenella-Fate Bella Addormentata-Fate Ciondoli #aurora #maleficent #disney #easter #auroradisney #principessedisney #sleepingbeauty #charm #disneycharm #progresskeeper #stitchmarker https://etsy.me/3ZRMRfm (presso Siena, Italy) https://www.instagram.com/p/CpwieKytR1Y/?igshid=NGJjMDIxMWI=

[quintessentialarts]

Etsy | Facebook | Instagram

Yarrow stitchmarker 🌼🌿🧶

Plant allies while knitting 💚

[yankyouryarn]

Heavy Metal Mega Reversa-Clippy Stitch Markers

Heavy Metal is so much more than just screaming lyrics and distorted guitar chords! Heavy Metal is a natural element characterized by its rather high atomic mass its their high density! Yeah!

These are the PLUS-SIZED versions of my Reversa-Clippy Double-Sided Progress Keepers! Finally, there's a larger version that will fit on your chunkiest of yarns, with a larger lobster clasp that is easier to manipulate. One side of the marker has a 16mm lobster clasp that will hang comfortably on most yarns with the exception of your lace-weight and cobweb variety. On the flip side is a round closed stitch marker that will fit up to a size US13/9mm knitting needle. It's two stitch markers in one! You can even use them for your crochet projects as an edge stitch marker or a beginning of round marker.

You get a SET OF THREE in the packet.

Made from hand-coiled copper wire, the glass seed bead is glued over the joints to ensure smooth moving. Because the rings are hand-coiled and cut, your markers may be slightly wibbly-wobbly and not completely round. All stitch markers are shipped in a zipper bag in a padded envelope.

Fits needles up to size US13/9mm.

[handmadebycatkin]

New stitch marker tins... With Kitchener Stitch reminders! It's a two for one solution! Keep your notions tidy and graft your knits with ease! Three styles available, and they hold heaps of markers! #kitchenerstitch #kitchener #socksofinstagram #sockporn #sockknitting #sockknittersofinstagram #sockknitting #sockknittersofinstagram #sockknitter #sockknittingaddict #sockknitters #sockknittersofig #stitchmarker #stichmarkers #storage #storageideas #storagesolutions #storagebox #storagehacks #storagesolution #handmadebycatkin #handmadeincanberra #handmadeaustralia #handmadeinaustralia #handmadecanberra #knittinginstagram #knitspiration #knitstagram #knit #knitting #knittingthings #knittingessentials (at Ngunnawal Country) https://www.instagram.com/p/CnWn5WXy7aN/?igshid=NGJjMDIxMWI=

[crystalseahorse]

knitter or crocheter? Look at these adorable stitch markers

[professorpski]

Yes, I Have Too Much Yarn Already, But I Could Go Buy A Stitch Marker

As I dressmaker, I have more fabric and more imagined garments than I have time. Then I took up crochet and knitting and now I have more yarn and imagined garments than I have time. Sigh.

But you may not, so why not enjoy Local Yarn Store Day and go buy something? Or take a knitting friend to lunch and then go buy something?

[chrismerle]

Good day in the shop today! Sold all of this. Two bracelets, two rings, a necklace, and a set of stitch markers.

If you're interested in similar stuff, my Etsy shop is called WidgetsApparel. There's a link to the shop in my pinned post. Everything is 15% off in preparation of me moving soon!

[10-59]

i wanna get tattoos….. and like 37 piercings

[rovingwren]

New project new project new project

Yayyyy dopamine!!

Yayyyy pretty colors!!

Also playing with beads this morning, making new stitch marker designs with a new eyepin tool I bought

[madebyannalam]

Quiet Sunday afternoons are for making your own #stitchmarkers. . #knitting #knittersofinstagram #handmade #knit #knitstagram #yarnaddict #diy #knittinglove #nevernotknitting #imadethis #beading https://www.instagram.com/p/Cn-77kApn6-/?igshid=NGJjMDIxMWI=

[psychic-pigeons]

hey if you write a pattern for the chilchuck amigurumi I will buy it instantly

ive gotten multiple asks about this, so ill just answer them all here in one go.

i wrote down everything while i was working on it, but i theres some stuff that i would do diffrently and i also didnt take a lot of process pics so it wont be a full proper pattern for those reasons, but ill add all that i have under the cut!

i dont want any compensation, but if you wanna do me a favor you can donate to esims for gaza, unrwa, any of these gefundme's, or another trusted charity of your choice.

now to the pattern! i would love to see the results of anyone making a squeakychuck, feel free to tag or dm me :)

the dimensions of this depend on the size of ur squeaker and yarn, i had a 4ish cm squeaker and somewhat thick 4/8 cotton yarn (kinda 6/8ish thickness). depending on ur yarn and squeaker u might need to follow a different pattern for the body.

if youre using a different body base pattern, the tunic and blouse pattern are pretty easily adjustable. ill add some notes for that at those sections of the pattern. ill also link some videos i used at relevant sections.

if theres an Action store near where u live, see pic below for the yarn i used for the skin, reddish brown, black and light brown. i got 3 of these but 2 packs was enough. the dark brown and creme were from my stash. i also got the squeaker from a donut dog toy from Action.

-

abreviations list (all in us terms):

mr = magic ring

sc = single crochet

hdc = half dubble crochet

slst = slipstitch

ch = chain

bobble = 5 double crochet in one stitch

4inc = 4 sc in one

4 inc = increase in the next four stitches

BLO = back loop only

FLO = front loop only

what you need:

-skin color of choice yarn

-creme/white yarn (normal for body, thin for blouse)

-greyish creme (for boot flaps)

-black yarn

-dark brown yarn

-light brown yarn

-reddish brown yarn

-green yarn

-4 tiny buttons (for arm joints)

-cardboard (for shoe sole

-3.5mm hook

-squeaker

-needlefelt needle

-stuffing

-stitchmarker (optional, i always mark the first stitch of the round)

-

once again disclaimer, this is not a propper pattern, this is just what i wrote down while i was crochetting. it may not nessecarily be the best way to do it. i wanted most clothes to be removable, but you have to partially disassemble the doll if you want to remove them. if you dont like how something looks or works ur free to do whatever you want. big fan of fucking around and finding out personally.

if you have any questions feel free to dm me, might take me a while to reply though.

-

SQUEAKY CHUCK PATTERN 3.5mm hook

head (skin)

r1: sc 6 in mr

r2: (inc) x6

r3: (sc 1, inc) x6

r4: (sc 2, inc) x6

r5: (sc3, inc) x6

r6: (sc4, inc) x6

r7: (sc 5, inc) x6

r8-15 : sc 42

r16: (sc 5, dec) x6

r17: (sc 4, dec) x6

r18: (sc3, dec) x6

r19: (sc2, dec) x6

r20: (sc 1, dec) x6

r21: sc 12

slst, fasten off

ears x2 (skin)

r1: sc6 in mc

r2: (inc) x6

r3: (sc, inc) x6

r4-6: sc 18

r7: dec 9. slst fatsen off.

Body - leg up (skin, black, thick creme)

start with skin

r1: ch 6, inc in 2nd from hook, sc 3, 4inc, sc 3, inc

r2: inc 2, sc 3, inc 4, sc 3, inc 2

r3: inc 3, sc 5, inc 6, sc 5, inc 3

r4: BLO sc in all

r5: sc 3, dec 2, sc 3, dec 2, sc 6, dec 2, sc 3, dec 2, sc 3

r6: sc 1, dec, sc 4, dec 6, sc 4, dec, sc 1.

r7: sc 6, dec 3, sc 6

stuff

-r8 dec, sc in all

change color to black [color change video]

r9-23: sc in all

1st leg: fasten off

2nd leg [joining legs video]:

r24: sc7, ch 1, sc join in 1st leg after last sc, sc13, sc1 in visible v loop of ch1, sc 7

r25: sc7, sc 1 in remaining v loop of ch1, sc21

r26-31: sc 28

r32: sc 7, change color to creme/white, slst 1, sc 20

r33-35: sc 29

r36: (sc 8, dec) x3

r37: (sc7, dec) x3

r38: (sc6, dec)x3

add squeaker

r39: sc21

r40: (sc 5, dec) x3

r41-42: sc18

r43: (sc 1, dec) x6

fasten off

Arms (skin, dark brown)

i made the arms movable with button joints, but after looking at some videos i discovered that what i did is not called a button joint and i dont have a video explaining it, so i hope this drawing helps.

the red bits are the buttons inside of the arms and body, and the thread (blue for clarity, i matched it w the skin) should be pulled tight and finished off with a double or tripple knot inside the body.

or you could just sew on the arms that also works. but wait with doing that until youve finished the blouse as the hands dont fit through the sleeves. i have a seperate section on assembly at the end of the pattern.

start with skin

r1:sc6 in mc

r2: inc x6

r3(sc, inc)x6

r4 : sc 18

change color to brown

r5: sc 18

1st arm r6: sc 3, bobble, sc 14.

2nd arm r6.2: sc 14, boble, sc 3

[i matched the top loop to the bobble color but i think it would look better if u didnt]

r7: sc 18

r8: (sc 4, dec)x3

r9: (sc 3, dec)x3

r10 sc12

color switch to skin (you might want to do this a round earlier, i didnt initially plan on making the gloves flared, and this color change part can sometimes be seen and look kinda weird)

r11-14: sc 12

r15: (sc4, dec)x2

r16-19 : sc 10

r20: (sc3, dec)x2

r21: sc8

insert button joint

r28: (sc2, dec)x2

slst, sew shut

glove flare (dark brown)

r1: ch 15, slst join LONG TAIL

r2: (sc4, inc)x3

r3: sc4, inc, sc8, inc, sc 4

r4: sc 2, slst fasten off

sew 2 rows below thumb bobble

boots (light brown, dark brown, greyish creme) [video]

these are removable but they dont go on easily, so you gotta patiently massage the feet in there.

start with light brown

ch 7, start in 2nd from hook:

r1: sc 5, 3inc, sc 4, inc

r2: inc, sc 4, inc 3, sc 4, inc 2

r3: inc, sc 5, hdc inc 7, sc 5, inc 2

r4: slst fasten off. sew in holes/tails, fray ends for flat gluejob. trace onto cardboard for sole.

switch color to dark brown

r1: BLO join slst, BLO sc in all

r2-3: sc in all

glue in sole

r4: sc 8, dec 5, sc 12

r5: sc 7, dec 4, sc 10

r6: sc7, dec2, sc 10

r7-10: sc in all

switch color to greyish creme

r11-12: sc in all

r13: slst, FLO sc in all

r14-16: sc all

slst fasten off

flip the greyish creme flap over.

blouse (thinner creme)

this is a standard raglan pattern, if you need the whole thing bigger/smaller you need to have more/less chains at the beginning. this change also carries over to the collar. the increases are evenly spaced for me, and unless your doll has a very broad chest this shouldnt have to change.

if the arms need more space you need to either add more rows to the r3-7 part and/or add more chains in r8 (this part should fit pretty sugg around the body)

i was experimenting a bit w using BLO to minimize the gap where the sleeve and body seperate (r8). it worked p good but you can ignore it if you dont understand it and just sc in all.

(edit: if this confuses you, understandable. I answered an ask abt it here but feel free to ask if its still unclear)

r1: ch24, slst join.

r2: (sc 5, inc) x4

r3-7: inc in first of previous inc. last row should have 10 sc between increases.

r8: sc5, blo sc 1, ch 5, blo sc join in 1st of next inc, sc 11, blo sc1, ch5, blo sc join in 1st st of next inc, sc 5

r9: sc6, blo sc 1, sc 5, blo sc1, sc11, blo sc 1, sc 5, blo sc 1, sc 6

r10-13: sc in all (36)

r14: (sc8, inc)x4

r15: sc in all (40)

slst finish off

Sleeve

r1: join mid armpit, slst ,sc2, sc in the leftover bits from the BLO stitches, sc 11, sc in leftover BLO bits, sc2

r2-6: sc in all

collar

join left-middle front, sc 7, inc, sc8, inc, sc 7. turn

r2: sc7, inc, sc 10, inc, sc 7. turn

r3: sc8, inc, sc 10, inc, sc 8. turn

cuffs

r1: join mid body-facing side, FLO sc 20

r2-4: sc 20, slst fatsen off

Tunic (red brown) [tunesian entrelac crochet]

if you want to make this bigger i recommend keeping the same square layout, but making the squares bigger. its a bit of measuring and math to figure it out.

the tunic is made in tunesian crochet and i dont really know what written patterns for that look like so i hope this makes sense.

for a single square:

r1: ch4, start in 2nd back bump from hook. pull up a loop from ever back bump. you should have 4 loops on your hook total. simplestitch in all

r2-4: simplestitch in all.

r5: slst in all. fasten off

for the slanted parts i did the decrease by pulling through the middle 2 loops in one go on the back pass

this is how the full thing should look, its worked from bottom left to top right.

sew together the shoulders together, then sew in all of the ends

:) good luck

tunesian crochet has a tendancy to curl, so if you used cotton i def recommend blocking it

i defined the grid a little bit with a dark brown pencil.

cowl (green)

BLO sc 7, repeat till desired lenght, then BLO slst join the last row to the first.

scalp undercut bit (dark brown)

r1: sc 6 in mr

r2: (inc) x6

r3: (sc 1, inc) x6

r4: (sc 2, inc) x6

r5: (sc3, inc) x6

r6: (sc 4, inc)x6

r7: sc36

sew on back of the head (recommend doing this before the ears and face, see end for more detailed assembly instructions)

hair (reddish brown) [hair video]

disclaimer, this is kind of a mess. the lenghts didnt line up the way i intended so i improvised by adding loose strands and spent a lot of time pinning every strand in place before glueing them down.

i used bison kit contact glue since its sturdy, transparant, flexible and waterproof. you can use hot glue as well, i just personally dont like it because its bulky.

r1: sc 21 in mc. join BLO slst

r2: ch 12, sc in 2nd from hook, gdc10, BLO slst join

r3: ch 12, sc in 2nd from hook, gdc10, BLO slst join

r4: ch13, sc in 2nd from hook, hdc 11, BLO slst join

r5: ch13, sc in 2nd from hook, hdc 11, BLO slst join

r6: ch 14, sc in 2nd from hook, hdc 12, BLO slst join

r7: ch16, sc in 2nd form hook, hdc 14, BLO slst join

r8: ch 18, sc in 2nd from hook, hdc 16, BLO slst join

r9: ch 18, sc in 2nd from hook, hdc 16, BLO slst join

r10: ch 14, sc in 2nd from hook, hdc 12, BLO slst join

r11: ch 12, sc in 2nd from hook, hdc 10, BLO slst join

r12: ch 10, sc in 2nd from hook, hdc 8, BLO slst join

from now on, join in the FLO's of previous round

r13: ch10, sc in 2nd from hook, hdc 8, FLO slst join

r14: ch10, sc in 2nd from hook, hdc 8 , FLO slst join

r15: ch12, sc in 2nd from hook, hdc 10 , FLO slst join

r16: ch12, sc in 2nd from hook, hdc 10 , FLO slst join

r17: ch14, sc in 2nd from hook, hdc 12 , FLO slst join

r18: ch16, sc in 2nd form hook, hdc 14, FLO slst join

r19: ch 18, sc in 2nd from hook, hdc 16, FLO slst join

r20: ch16, sc in 2nd form hook, hdc 14, FLO slst join

r21: ch14, sc in 2nd from hook, hdc 12 , FLO slst join

1x ch 6, sc in 2nd from hook, hdc 4

2x ch8, sc in 2nd from hook, hdc 6

2x ch 10, sc in 2nd from chain, hdc 8, slst in same, fasten off.

2x ch 12, sc in 2nd from chain, hdc 10, slst in same, fasten off.

3x ch14

pin all in place until it looks good, tie +glue loose strands first. then glue back pieces, crown, and lastly bangs/ top back layer. some of the lose strands go behind the ears, one is the left sideburn, and the rest is to cover up the crown. these pics are the best i can do as a guide, this was my first time doing this so i was struggling lol.

i didnt fully glue down the bangs and the top back layer bc i thought it would be fun if u could ruffle his hair, but my friend who i gave the plush to has significantly abused him (its been 2 days) and his hair is a mess so im gonna have to glue it down again lol. might as well do it all the first time if u plan on throwing him down the stairs or something.

Face

for eyes + eyebrows, embroider outline with dark brown, then needle felt [video] the inner parts w unraveled dark brown fluff. the dark brown i used was probably acrylic. cotton doesnt really work well for this.

Belt and pouch (dark brown)

the belt is a 3 strand basic friendship bracelet! [video]

sew together the ends and hide it with by sewing the pouch on top.

i didnt write down the pattern for the pouch, but from the top of my head its the same start as the squares for the tunic

r1-9: simple stitch in all

r10: simple stitch 1, decrease by putting your hook through 2 vertical bars when pulling up a loop, simple stitch edge 1.

r11: slst in all, finish with a long tail

use tail to sew together the sides, and sew the pouch onto the belt. use some yellow thread to make a button.

ASSEMBLY.

put on the blouse, put the arms in their place and finish the button joints.

put on the tunic, lace the sides with dark brown yarn, finish with a knot and hide the tails underneath the chest part of the tunic.

slide on the belt and boots.

sew the scalp undercut bit to the head

sew the ears to the head

tie + glue the loose hair strands behind the ears

glue the back of the hair

glue the back of the hair

glue the middle circle part of the hair

glue the top back layer and bangs

sew the head to the body

put on the cowl

i hope this is somewhat clear, feel free to dm me is you have questions.

enjoy your squeakychuck :D

[thekillermaretwinz]

Guys meet Harvestmoon! My SAMS oc

Inspired by the scarecrows in horror movies

-Hair is made of straw

-Clothes may or may not have been stolen by an actual scarecrow

-Bloodmoon & Jack-O-Moon personalites in one

-Rarely speaks but it sounds spooky as hell

-Fingers are partially numb

-Has a scythe as a weapon

-Does has stitchmarks around his mouth

-Goes by Harvest

-Master of disguising as a scarecrow

-Can stay still and go limp on command

Go crazy with him 🤗

@sillytwofaceboi

@deadlycreechur

@gremlininthedark (Not sorry for tagging u 3 times >:])

@insane-nexus

@the-old-moondrop

@silly-solar

@liminal---nightmare-aliza

@escapetheslaughter

(Srry for all the tagging-)

[yankyouryarn]

In the tender year of 1988, The Timelords released the song "Doctorin' The Tardis", which they claimed was recorded by Ford Timelord, their 1968 Ford Galaxie 500 V8 ex-American Police Car!

No, really!

Okay, this song is based on the British TV show Doctor Who, and even the band's name is taken from the program. In case you've been living under a rock, in the show, the Timelords are a race that can control time, and the TARDIS is a time-traveling spacecraft. The name stands for Time And Relative Dimensions In Space.

Show off your love for the amazing Gallifreyan (and their revolving door of companions) with this "Big Clippy" moveable stitch marker. The lobster clasp is 23mm long and will fit comfortably on worsted, chunky, and bulky wool. You can also use it as a zipper pull on your favorite sweater, project bag, or purse. You could also use it as a scarf or shawl clip. The possibilities are endless! You will receive 1 marker, made with a plated lobster clasp and an enameled TARDIS charm, connected with a TARDIS Blue hand-coiled copper ring and a River Song Blues glass bead.

[bookshelfdreams]

I'm late but it's time to open @littlebirdinagarden's autumn equinox mystery package!

Lovely packaging, as always, and cute little goodies - I love the stickers and the stitchmarker! And I can't wait to try out the recipe!

And the fibre! Mini braids this time, which I didn't anticipate at all, but what a lovely surprise! This might be my favourite colour scheme yet, combining autumn shades with purple and this shade of green is unusual, but very fun. Witchy. I love it <3 Thatk you, Robin!

[comfortabletextiles]

Day 6!

There were two pearls that could be future stitchmarkers?? Who knows!

Also look at how delicious this gradient is so far!!

[chrismerle]

Everything in my Etsy shop is still 15% off for the next while! Here are all the stitch markers currently available! The shop is called WidgetsApparel, and you can find a link to it in my pinned post and my blog description.

Glass owl stitch markers on brass lobster clasps, set of three. Usually $7.50, but currently $6.37. Three sets available.

Glass and enamel charm bee-themed stitch markers on brass lever backs, set of four. Usually $12, but currently $10.20. One set available.

Acrylic and glass pink stitch markers on plated-copper lobster clasps, set of four. Usually $8, but currently $6.80. Four sets available.

Glass and silver-plated copper leaf stitch markers, on plated-brass lever backs, set of three. Usually $10, but currently $8.50. One set available.

Glass stitch markers on iron lobster clasps, set of three. Usually $10, but currently $8.50. Two sets available.