#eyelet lace

[eyeliner-and-c1garettes]

For the letter E of my alphabet challenge, I have made an outfit of eyelet lace and espadrille shoes!

[hansenshorror]

*technically* The first sewing project I’ve made this year. Not quite my style, but it’s for a short film so... here’s Pearl does the 80s.

[queenofsquids]

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by doll's mam / 합정동김씨네작업실 (@dolls_mam)

[seamsterslocal]

summer binder picture tutorial

this is the third binder ive made for myself recently and the first one i’m writing up. it’s designed to do a few things: 1) allow me to put it on by myself without dislocating my shoulders 2) allow me to breathe well enough to partake in normal activity 3) be cool enough to wear throughout a muggy 90-100F summer 4) not constrict my ribs in a way that aggravates my lack of connective tissue and causes intense pain.

this has become necessary even though i had top surgery many years ago, because when i had it i was extremely skinny and since then i’ve increased in size by about 50%. this has been really fucking good for my health in every single way* except that when my chest is squishy or moves at all it’s So Goddamn Triggering for me. but also since ive had top surgery ive developed and/or been made away of a plethora of chronic conditions that make every single commercially available binding option medically impossible. unbound, my chest is pretty much what you’d expect for a chubby cis guy but venturing out into the world in just a tshirt no longer works for me

*anyone who badmouths weight gain or fat bodies in the notes WILL be blocked

under the cut are a bunch of process pictures and explanations of what they all mean:

first i’ll give you a look at the pieces and measurements:

most of the seams are sewn in this picture and one half is turned inside out, allowing you to see both the finished dimensions (right) and the placement of the fusible horsehair canvas that gives this lil scrap of linen any structure at all (left)

to get your chest measurement, you’re gonna have to do some math:

first measure above and below what you want to bind. average these numbers. mine are something like 32 and 34, which average to 33. subtract a few inches--this is to allow the air movement between the laces at center front and back, critical in the summertime. i deleted 3 inches bc i like that number but you can go bigger if you want. the more inches you subtract here, the more youll be able to ratchet all your chest material down later, but at the same time you need to leave enough fabric for a sturdy garment. let’s say a range of 2-6 inches/5-15cm. by taking your measurements this way, you’re essentially measuring the chest you would like to have. that + the horsehair canvas work together to compress any squishy tissue/force anything that doesnt compress up and to the outside (basically into the armpit/lower shoulder--the chest might stick out but it will give a very puffed chest captain america pectoral silhouette)

you can also see how ive clipped my curves and pre-drilled my lacing holes. i used the marlin spike on my knife to open up the holes on the interfacing side, mainly as a way of marking them. this worked well bc the interfacing’s glue kept the linen from raveling

this is the same stage but looking at the non-interfaced grey linen/cotton blend (the black is some 100% linen from my cabbage stash). you can see ive broken the solar-plexus-to-back measurement up into a bunch of pieces to save on fabric but that’s not necessary. my original pattern was just two pieces (front and back) and chopping the straps into thirds on both sides was aesthetic

in the following picture you can really see how this is really just overgrown regency stays:

i thought about doing side lacing but didn’t think that would be comfortable for me. on the front, the side seam allowance was pressed inwards before turning to create a finished looking slot. on the back the side seam is left unfinished with an extra wide seam allowance, and is inserted into that slot.

here’s a closeup on it pinned in place (you can adjust the angle of the side seam and the fit during this pinning stage):

that side seam was just topstitched in place once i had the fit how i liked it, and the armhole was reinforced with more topstitching

alright, time for eyelets: first, you can see how well the marking worked:

next, two rows of basted eyelets (left), one row of eyelets sewn with a doubled and waxed cotton thread (center right), and one row of eyelets opened and stainless steel rings placed (right).

next time i’m going to mark the eyelets same as i did above, but do this step differently--i’ll mark and baste the steel rings in place BEFORE widening the eyelets. this is bc i had a lot of problems keeping the eyelets on center

eyelets half done on this one! on the left are eyelets sewn with doubled and waxed cotton thread and on the right eyelets sewn with quadrupled and waxed thread. the center is basting again. i was able to force the holes back in line while sewing the eyelets but it was kinda annoying. adding a second picture that doesnt have great focus but hopefully shows how that process worked and shows the spike clearly

i ended up using this white cotton thread because it’s stronger than my black cotton thread (which the rest of it is sewn with). [eta: after this was first posted, i pressed the whole thing heavily, which effectively de-waxed the thread, and i dyed the whole thing a medium charcoal grey, the thread blends in perfectly on the lighter side and isn’t such a sore thumb on the darker side]

bonus: the piecing layout for that little piece of strap. the whole light gray half of the binder was made from 1/2 of one of the legs i cut off some linen suit pants to make slutty camping shorts last year and i really really didn’t want to break into any of the other three halves for this garment--i have Plans for it

overall the fit of this is incredible. it DOESNT hurt my ribs which every zip-up garment ive been able to find (and it is difficult) does due to really thick elastic at the base. it doesnt aggravate my sensory issues with the synthetic fibers that every commercial option is made of. i can walk up a hill or stairs, or go to pt, without getting too out of breath. i can eat with it tight, or loosen the front easily and without taking it off to make eating easier and less nausea-inducing. it is reversible!

best of all the lacing at the back gives the garment enough movement for me to get it on without dislocating, and the interfacing and steel rings give it structure once it’s on. the shaping comes only from fusible horsehair linen canvas and stainless steel rings like youd use for chainmail, there’s no boning at all, which makes it very quick to sew (except the eyelets, but metal grommets would be sturdy and quick provided theyre of good quality)

there’s a small amount of gaping on the outside of the shoulder strap, which i plan on fixing with a tiny tiny dart in the armpit, i want to add pockets to tuck the laces into, and i need a better lace for the back, but it’s completely wearable in time for the 90 weather next week which is all i wanted. i’ll do a reblog when it’s perfectly finished with an update on the fit but for now it is done enough 

the little ridge where it doesnt lay flat against the shoulder is most visible with just a single t shirt over it. with a flannel or a sweater, it disappears, and by itself, it’s hidden in movement

eta: after dyeing this, i relaced it a bit looser in the back and that gape mainly disappeared. ive decided to leave it in instead of smoothing it with a dart because the loose fabric gives space for my chest to expand when breathing and shapes my silhouette in a way that emphasizes my shoulders

[devynconstance]

These eyelets have consumed my every available minute for a few days now. I've completed 27/56 at this point and I'm hoping to finish up by the end of tomorrow. It's so close to being finished yet so far. On the plus side they're turning out really nice so that's always a plus.

[toyastales]

SCHIAPARELLI

[geddyqueer]

my friend with the tailoring request from a few weeks ago is back with another tailoring request (she's getting married this summer and has lots of costume changes apparently) and i set up my machine, wound a new bobbin, thread matched, changed feet, found a substitute button for the buttonhole foot, and got all set to go, and then stared really hard at what i was about to do and was like ok i think i should do this by hand instead.

[bmpmp3]

e

[three-red-horns]

Approve: eyelet lace dress and turquoise heels. 👌 Disapprove: fake grass. 🤔

[ifyourereadingthisblinktwice]

struggling to find a ren fair outfit. it’s gonna be 85 out, so i can’t do super fancy distinguished guy. options are limited to slightly lame hobbit, wench, or more fancy basic skirt i wore for a party earlier this year

[mandyorwell]

Skylar Floral Tank

Pink With White Floral

S

MW922L-1101SV8700Z374

100% cotton

20.5" (52 cm) length, 12.5" (32 cm) [bust, sic.]

China

Archived 23 August 2024

// i want this one soooo bad its so pretty

[thespoonisvictory]

guys now that I got the stain on it out with one pass through of stain-remover and washing, happy to announce that I thrifted a ~$200 Sezane dress from a Savers for $18. in my size. one of the most beautiful garments I have ever beheld, jaw literally dropped when I saw it (I look feverishly for eyelet cotton clothing), jaw dropped further when I saw the tag. anyway blessing u all with good luck in thrifting

[discountalien-pancake]

Are people just obsessed with laces because they have never seen cool buttons before?

[turkeyhillicedtea]

In a perfect world, my pants actually fit, and this belt doesn’t ruin my cute ass outfit 🥹🫠

[toyastales]

Moschino Resort

[corvidaedream]

im working on my lavender & pastel green macaroni outfit rn, but im suddenly also inspired to make a feminine-presenting outfit (for work-wear, mostly) that's technically accurate to the 1770s, but is actually just based on this 1902 beatrix potter illustration:

secret little tailor mouse cosplay