Engagement Challenge: Finding Project Brief.
As part of my Engagement Challenge project, I was tasked with finding a client and working on a brief for them. This involved me searching online for potential professional clients. Ideally, a professional animation studio or a charity I could make a short animation for. In addition to this we were given presentations by various third year students, currently working on their final projects, who are looking for aditional support with various tasks.
After the 3rd year presentations, I reached out to one, Ty Darcy on instagram. I said I would be interested in the costume fabrication project.
While I'm grateful for the opportunity to work with Ty on this project, the work they need completing is not suffcient for my current module project. I will need something bigger to do for my project brief.
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Last night was my company Holiday Party, and we're doing really well, so it was held at the Museum of Fine Arts (Boston)
I was so happy that also included the Styled by Sargent exhibit, of John Singer Sargent paintings and the actual articles of clothing alongside them.
Now, you have probably seen this painting of Lady Macbeth
But have you seen the costume she's wearing??
It's gorgeous, obviously.
But that texture! It's *crochet*
And some knitting
Really simple crochet too; just a chain and single crochet lattice with beads and metallic thread added for this chain mail effect.
Despite John Singer Sargent being an expert painter of fabric (no, really, just look at it), I never knew Lady Macbeth's costume had to be *hand crocheted* for that texture in the painting.
Anyway I'm gonna be making myself some faux-chainmail by crocheting it for the next Renn Faire
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"These magnet clothes are expensive."
"I know, it's a pain. But they'll make your full moons so much easier, trust me."
"But none of these are even fun."
"Look, sweetie, it's very new accessibility clothing. They're working on it, alright? This is mostly being marketed towards adult humans still."
"This is stupid. I'm getting along fine with stretchy pants and snaps."
"It won't be long before you'll start getting full transformations. A little stretch won't be enough when you stop being bipedal. And snaps are better than buttons and zippers, but they're very difficult with claws."
"Heidi's clothes have velcro."
"If you want to spend every waxing moon cleaning your own fur out of every single patch of velcro on your clothes, knock yourself our, honey."
"...do they at least have something in black?"
"If they don't I'll dye them for you."
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sick and tired of seeing people use zip ties for boning. listen to me i am a costume designer stop using plastic which does not hold your shape (the whole point of boning) you do not need to buy proper coiled boning or anything: go to a hardware store and find flat metal tension spring (google tells me that's what it's called, unfortunately i also don't know what its used for in hardware store related things so i cant describe it if that isnt the correct translation, soz) you can get a roll of 15m x 4mm tension spring for about 15 euros where i live and then you just have to cut it with metal shears (you can use a regular cutting pliers probably but if you have metal shears you will be happier) then either file down the edges a bit if you're genuinely gonna wear it a lot, or you just wind some tape around the edges to make sure putting them in the channels isn't gonna rip your fabric and anyway now you have an actually functional boned garment. go to a hardware store and show them this pic btw:
^ this is what you want. also bc this is 4mm wide around stress points like closures you want to make 2 channels right alongside each other and put in 2 pieces of tension spring for stability
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The Wolfkiller Cloak
So I have this thing where sometimes I see something on screen and my brain just short-circuits. It scratches my brain just right, I need to have this, I need to make this. And that’s what happened in nearly every episode of Interview with the Vampire, but especially in season 2 episode 3 “No Pain”.
This cloak has seared itself into my brain. The soft shine, the drape, the movement of the fabric (as Lestat is dragged across the floor and smashed against the wall) had bewitched me, body and mind. So I went out researching and decided to make one for myself, based on this pattern for a hooded cloak.
The fabric I used was stretchy velvet (for budget reasons, 6m) and a black lining fabric with a small diamond print (for fun, 4m). The pattern I used doesn't include a lining and I did think about leaving it out but in the behind the scenes footage (and when Armand smashes him against the wall, thank you for that) you could clearly see that there clearly is a dark lining on the inside of the cloak and my brain decided leaving it out just wasn't an option. So I just cut out the front and back piece twice, one velvet and one lining.
It might be 35°C and sunny outside, but you gotta press those seams. At least for the lining fabric. Then we can pin the lining to the the velvet, sew them together at the collar and start hemming the sides. Be warned. It's a lot of fabric, so you're gonna need a lot of space. I would also recommend (if you're using a stretchy fabric like me) to pin and, if you're able, even sew the hems while it's hanging on a hanger. Yes, I handstitched the sides and bottom hem. Ever since I started looking into historical reconstructions, I have kind of fallen in love with the lack of visible seams. Not to mention that hand stitching has also become something of a favorite pastime of mine while rewatching IWTV.
Now I shortened it, which was quite hard to do simply because it's so much fabric and I don't have a mannequin. So I hung it up, pinned where I wanted to cut it, tried it on, took a video, so I could see the where the cut would be and went from there. Took me a few tries, but I'm quite happy with how it turned out.
Now that that's done, we can attach the shorter layer and the hood. My biggest issue was finding some fur, but lucky for me, I was cat-sitting for my downstairs neighbor who has been working as a theater seamstress for 40 year and who was out of town for the weekend, visiting her son who, unbeknownst to me, also worked for a big theater company. And both of them had made it their personal mission to find me some faux fur. And they did. This incredible faux fur was everything I wanted it to be. A wolf-gray with a red shimmer and some darker spots. I was over the moon.
And it was totally worth coughing up hairballs for the rest of the evening. In the original pattern there actually is a hood lining, but I just replaced that with the fur. I would absolutely recommend stitching the fur and the hood together, as the pattern instructions say. Do as I say, not as I do.
The other issue I had was the fur on the hood. I had ordered a faux fur hood attachment for a winter jacket, but the look and the feel just wasn't the same. So I went on ebay, as I so often do late at night, and kind of hit the jackpot. A fox fur stole, not one person bidding on it, 3 days left to go. Yup, I got it. 30 bucks plus shipping.
I mean, come on. What a difference.
The last issue, the final problem so to speak, was the fact that there was a big border of velvet on the inside of the cloak. Now I tried attaching a long piece of velvet fabric, but it just wouldn't sit right and after the 3rd time attaching and reattaching and getting increasingly frustrated I simply took the easy way out. I cut out a triangular piece of velvet and attached it right where the cloak would open. Sue me.
And there you have it.
And because it's summer rn and I don't have the energy to head outside at night to take some actual pics, I decided to whip something up in photoshop.
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