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Basic Sewing Terms
#crafts#gifts#decor#sewing#quilting#briar rose quilts#bedding#shopping#quilters of tumblr#basic sewing terms#darts#hem#seam#stitch#quilts#lining#pedal#needles#bobbin#sewing.com
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i really dont understand studying at all like genuinely i don't know what it is . i know about "taking notes" and "reading the textbook" and that's it . quizlet doesn't do shit for me because i don't know what to. do. with the cards. look at them ? am i supposed to just look at them . No one bothered teaching me actual skills bc i got good grades when i was 8 and now i am so hopelessly lost . why did no one think to teach me this for when stuff got harder than four plus three
#text#ive never understood flashcards . like what to do with them. how is that any more different or helpful than just like... writing a list on#paper of vocab terms or whatever#and like conceptually i know 'learning' is like. not only committing things to memory but also being able to engage with it which#is why teachers loveeeee group discussions and essays. but like. you read the text and then you go to class and Discuss but how do you#Learn what the text is saying like how do you . put it in your brain and udnerstand and remember it .#i think im missing something very simple because everyone else in the world seems to understand this fine#like where does the part where you go oh! i understand this and can explain it in my own words. Happen#how do u force it to happen if its not something ur autistic about#Like the only example i can think of rn of this is when i hyperfixated on hpa axis dysregulation + trauma a couple weeks ago#so i was learning stuff about it for Fun and not for school so no comprehension tests or notes or anything#and basically i'd just put on a webinar while i sorted seaglass or worked on sewing or whaever#and i can explain the concept fine. ur brain controls ur body so if it gets too scared ur body loses its shit basically.#but i dont remember most of the words. i still can barely define neurotransmitter#i can apply this to my own life but i confuse the hippocampus and the frontal lobe and the amygdala etc#and i couldnt point out any of them on a diagram#i dont get it . like i know a lot and simultaneously nothing at all abt it#how am i supposedto be remembering words and numbers AND understanding the concepts AND im supposed to do that between#reading the book and engaging in thoughtful conversation with my peers i dont understand
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sometimes it turns out you're not an XS, you're just an XL who happens to be 5'4"
#men's fashion#transmasc#this is a subtweet to men's fashion#cause I just tried on the fucking XL and XXL shirts I bought at the charity shop as sacrifices to sewing shenanigans#cause that's the W I D T H I need for the hips#and they were not nearly as misfitting on me as I expected them to be#like still very much too big but mostly in terms of length and only marginally in shoulders and collar#like shoulders on the XL one are basically the same amount of too big for me as they are on the S I also bought#men's fashion explain yourself#wtf is this#this is after buying L/XL shorts yesterday too for same hip reason albeit with less worry abt other proportions#turns out#only short#men's fashion doesn't give a shit abt how slender some parts of you may be#widest part is all that counts#cause male fashion shape language says to be WIDE#and you gotta lean into it all the way apparently#I feel both pissed off and enlightened abt these recent insights smh#the XL one makes my shoulders look incredible I am severely tempted to just shorten it and fix the sleeves#but I may just trace the pattern and use its structural knowledge on future own projects hmm
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i need everybody to stop focusing this much on craig's interest in space and start focusing a little more on his interest in racing. anyways he is a mercedes fan and he cried when kimi retired.
#i am speaking directly in your ear craig loves red racer he wants to b just like him so he gets into cars n racing n eventually into f1#he makes tweek watch all his favourite gps and explains all the terms in excruciating detail#his mom sews him custom mercedes merch bc she doesnt want to buy the super expensive official stuff#the only kid in his grade who gets the obsession is scott he rlly likes historic teams (williams mclaren n ferrari)#(bc he also owns a ton of car themed stuff i watched basic cable 829395958 times trust me)#scott would like ricciardo a ton methinks...hes always going thru it#ANYWAYS!!!! oh jeez look at that twirls hair i promise im normal!!!!#south park#sp craig#craig tucker#thoughts
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going 2 a thrift store and seeing the shelves lined with shein clothes fills my body with a rage i can only describe as murderous.
#AND IT'S PRICED AS MUCH AS OR MORE THAN THE FUCKING SHEIN PRICE.#STOP FEEDING FAST FASHION AND PLS LEARN HOW TO MEND SIMPLE ISSUES WITH UR CLOTHES#sewing is a LIFE SKILL. REPEAT AFTER ME#in terms of wardrobe all you need is some basics to combine w each other and the rest is accessories#I'm so serious btw I'm not joking at all#chatter
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PSA to all historical fiction/fantasy writers:
A SEAMSTRESS, in a historical sense, is someone whose job is sewing. Just sewing. The main skill involved here is going to be putting the needle into an out of the fabric. They’re usually considered unskilled workers, because everyone can sew, right? (Note: yes, just about everyone could sew historically. And I mean everyone.) They’re usually going to be making either clothes that aren’t fitted (like shirts or shifts or petticoats) or things more along the lines of linens (bedsheets, handkerchiefs, napkins, ect.). Now, a decent number of people would make these things at home, especially in more rural areas, since they don’t take a ton of practice, but they’re also often available ready-made so it’s not an uncommon job. Nowadays it just means someone whose job is to sew things in general, but this was not the case historically. Calling a dressmaker a seamstress would be like asking a portrait painter to paint your house
A DRESSMAKER (or mantua maker before the early 1800s) makes clothing though the skill of draping (which is when you don’t use as many patterns and more drape the fabric over the person’s body to fit it and pin from there (although they did start using more patterns in the early 19th century). They’re usually going to work exclusively for women, since menswear is rarely made through this method (could be different in a fantasy world though). Sometimes you also see them called “gown makers”, especially if they were men (like tailors advertising that that could do both. Mantua-maker was a very feminized term, like seamstress. You wouldn’t really call a man that historically). This is a pretty new trade; it only really sprung up in the later 1600s, when the mantua dress came into fashion (hence the name).
TAILORS make clothing by using the method of patterning: they take measurements and use those measurements to draw out a 2D pattern that is then sewed up into the 3D item of clothing (unlike the dressmakers, who drape the item as a 3D piece of clothing originally). They usually did menswear, but also plenty of pieces of womenswear, especially things made similarly to menswear: riding habits, overcoats, the like. Before the dressmaking trade split off (for very interesting reason I suggest looking into. Basically new fashion required new methods that tailors thought were beneath them), tailors made everyone’s clothes. And also it was not uncommon for them to alter clothes (dressmakers did this too). Staymakers are a sort of subsect of tailors that made corsets or stays (which are made with tailoring methods but most of the time in urban areas a staymaker could find enough work so just do stays, although most tailors could and would make them).
Tailors and dressmakers are both skilled workers. Those aren’t skills that most people could do at home. Fitted things like dresses and jackets and things would probably be made professionally and for the wearer even by the working class (with some exceptions of course). Making all clothes at home didn’t really become a thing until the mid Victorian era.
And then of course there are other trades that involve the skill of sewing, such as millinery (not just hats, historically they did all kinds of women’s accessories), trimming for hatmaking (putting on the hat and and binding and things), glovemaking (self explanatory) and such.
TLDR: seamstress, dressmaker, and tailor are three very different jobs with different skills and levels of prestige. Don’t use them interchangeably and for the love of all that is holy please don’t call someone a seamstress when they’re a dressmaker
#sewing#historical sewing#sewing knowledge#writing guide#PSA to writers#historical fiction#fantasy writing
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so, you wanted to start bookbinding?
so @princetofbone mentioned on my post for "factory settings" about wanting to know more about the binding style that i used for it. so i thought i might make a post about it.
i was as terrible as i always am for taking in progress shots, but i can link you to the resources i used in order to make my book. i would also like to point out that "factory settings" is my 120th bind, and i have been doing bookbinding as a hobby for just over 3 years now. unfortunately this means some of the methods that i used for that bind aren't particularly beginner friendly, just in terms of the tools and methods i have used, but i would love to point you in the right direction when it comes to resources. i dont say this to sound pretentious which i fear i might come across, just so that youre fully informed. getting into this hobby is fun and rewarding, but it can definitely be intimidating.
with that caveat, heres a list of links and resources that i have used for bookbinding in general, with additional links to methods i used specifically in regards to this bind.
ASH's how to make a book document. it gives you a great introduction into typesetting fics (where you format the text of fics to look like a traditionally published books) and then turning them into a case-bound book (the style i used for "factory settings"). it is comprehensive, and explains how to use microsoft word to do your bidding. it was invaluable to me when i was just starting out! currently i use affinity publisher to typeset/format my fics for printing, but i only bought and learned how to use that after i had been binding books for a year and a half. i made some beautiful typesets with word, and some of my close friends use it still and design stuff that i never would be able to in my wildest dreams (basically anything by @no-name-publishing)
DAS Bookbinding's Square Back Bradel Binding. a great style to do your first bind in! this method requires, when making the case, to attach the cover board and the spine board to a connecting piece of paper, which makes it so much easier to match the size of the case to the size of the text block (your printed out and sewn fic). using this method is what allowed me to get much more accurately fitting cases, and made me much more confident with the construction of the books i was making. a well-made book is something that is so wonderful to hold in your hands!
DAS Bookbinding's Rounded and Backed Cased Book. This is the specific method that i used to create my bind for "factory settings"! even before i could back my books, i found that watching DAS's videos in particular helped me see how books were traditionally made, and i was able to see different tips and tricks about how to make nicer books.
Book Edge Trimming Without... i trim the edges of my text block using my finishing press and a chisel i have sharpened using a whetstone and leather strop with buffing compound on it. i follow the method for trimming shown in this video!
Made Endpapers. i follow this method for my endpapers, as i used handmade lokta endpapers, and they can be quite thin, but they look beautiful! i used "tipped on" endpapers (where you have your endpaper and then put a thin strip of glue on the edge and attach it to your text block) i used for a very long time before this, but these feel like they are much more stable, as they are sewn with your text block.
Edge Sprinkling. this is the method that i used for decorating the edges of my text block. but the principle is basically clamping your text block tight and then sprinkling the edges. i do not believe you need to trim the edges in order to do sprinkles on the edges, and that's what makes it accessible! i personally just use really cheap acrylic paint that i water down and then flick it onto the edges with my thumb and a paint brush.
Double-Core Endbands. i sew my own endbands, which i followed this tutorial for. that being said, it's kind of confusing, and this video is a bit easier to follow, but it is a slightly different type of endband.
Case decoration. i used my silhouette cameo 4 to cut out my design for "factory settings" in htv (heat transfer vinyl). i also used my cameo 4 to cut out the oval of marbled paper on the front, as i honestly didn't want to try my hand at cutting an oval lol. i also glued some 300 gsm card with an oval cut out of the centre of it onto the cover before covering it with bookcloth, to get a kind of recess on the cover. i then glued the oval of marbled paper onto the top of the recessed area once it was covered with bookcloth, so that it was protected. the images i used were sourced from a mix of rawpixel, canva and pixabay. a more accessible way to get into cover decoration is by painting on a design for your cover as described in @a-gay-old-time's tutorial just here. or even doing paper labels, which look classy imo.
physical materials. sourcing these will depend on your country. i am located in australia, and have compiled a list with some other aussie bookbinders of places to buy from. here is a great post describing beginning materials for getting started binding.
@renegadepublishing. this tumblr is great! its what got me started bookbinding, and being in the discord has been inspiring, motivating, and honestly just one of the best online experiences i have ever had. it is full of resources, and most people in there are amateur bookbinders, with a couple of professionals thrown in. the discord is 18+, and anyone can join!
i'm sorry this post got so long, but i hope that this has a lot of information for you if you would like to get started bookbinding. its one of the best hobbies ive ever had, and i genuinely believe i will have it for the rest of my life.
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PRETTY MAMA SEWS; C. STURNIOLO
CHRIS STURNIOLO X F!READER
warnings: angst, toxic!chris / toxic relationship, mentions of sex but no smut
wc: 1.249 (short but it fits with the song length)
a/n: REQUESTED! i basically never write for chris and for some reason a fic based on bbh screams chris to me - i’ll be honest, i was watching slushynoobz while writing this so anything that came to my head, i wrote down immediately
SYNOPSIS: You and Chris weren’t a perfect match, completely the opposite. Yet, you can’t bring yourself to stop going back to him.. and vice versa..
for @chrissv4mp <3
@mattybsgroupie <3
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You and Chris broke up for a reason: you two just weren’t compatible.
But when you roamed around the party, flashing neon lights blinding you as sweaty bodies mingled together, your eyes almost immediately drifted towards him. That stupid smile on his face, with his stupid hair and his stupid outfit.
Your eyes watched the way his pink lips spoke, spewing nonsense about you. He always had a problem with keeping your name trapped in his mouth.
It was easy to try and forget about him on nights where he didn’t matter to you. But, now, as you wander around this club, all he did was invade your thoughts.
Chris’s blue eyes drifted over, quickly noticing your presence in the crowded place. Though, with everyone in here, yelling and dancing, his eyes immediately picked you out. For years he’s felt this insatiable pull to you, for whatever reason. Yet, he abused the power once he had you. He proclaimed his longing for you, his care and love, but his words fizzled into nothing but ash as you threw all of his things in a fire. He didn’t care about you.
Standing by the bar, you wait impatiently for the bartender to come back from flirting with another customer. The loud music envelopes your thoughts, taking over your mind. Ordering a drink, your eyes wander the place as they take in all of the different people chatting together.
From a few tables away, Chris’s eyes never falter from your form. They scour your outfit and the way his brain immediately pictures the way you used to look underneath him, writhing and moaning for him. His ears block out any other noise, ignoring his friends and the random people at his table. They center in on your lips, the ones you’re anxiously biting as you wait and wait for the drink you ordered over a few minutes ago. Looking at them, Chris remembers the way they felt against his - the soft, pillowy cushions of your lips mixing with his.
Swallowing the harsh liquid quickly, you cringe as you slam the glass back down on the solid bar. Exhaling deeply, your thoughts are always brought back to the man a few feet away from you. You shut your eyes tightly as you look down, trying to rid yourself of him, though all you could feel was his presence in the room with you. Just because you both weren’t made for each other, doesn’t mean you didn’t care about him.
Sighing, you come to terms with the fact you’re not going to be able to have a good night with him here. Clenching your jaw, you lick over your lips as you turn, beelining towards the door.
Chris follows your movements as he turns his head to look at you. He feels an indescribable pull to you, some sort of unquenchable desire that envelops his body with greed. As if in a trance, Chris gets up from his seat at the booth, his eyes never straying from your figure.
“What’re you doin’, man?” One of Chris’s friends calls out to him, over the booming music vibrating the club room. Chris ignores him as the question doesn’t even register in his mind, too set on finding you and putting out his internal fire of need.
Darting out of the club, Chris throws the door open as his blue eyes wander the area. Turning to the right, his eyes widen slightly as he sees you, letting go of the door and rushing over to you. You hadn’t noticed his footsteps as you make your way down the sidewalk. Chris knew your body language too well to not realize the almost unnoticeable way you walk tiredly, the heels you wore quickly making your feet ache.
“Hey, mama.” Chris walks up next to you, falling in-step with you. His voice makes you flinch slightly, not expecting it. His eyes remain on your side profile, not looking forward despite the risk of the decision.
“Go away, Chris.” You sigh, keeping your eyes ahead of you. The nighttime breeze hits you, blowing your hair softly with the wind. Despite the cool air, you could feel the warmth radiating from Chris. There were nights where you used to cuddle up into him, seeking out his warmth when it got too cold in his room. The heat he emitted to you, the comforting feeling of being close to your lover used to soothe you, bringing you closer to sleep on bad nights. But now, all the warmth that you feel is empty - it’s not here to soothe you and your worries, it’s here to mock you because all Chris wants is to use you until he gets bored again.
And as much as you wished you could resist him, you find yourself here, again. Lying in his bed bare as your limbs go limp, your chest heaving. Chris moves around his room, searching for a new pair of boxers as if you weren’t even here.
You and everyone close to you knew of your addiction to the toxic man. They berated and cursed you as you retreated back to his intoxicating form, not understanding the solace Chris brings you whenever you landed back in his familiar bed. It wasn’t often enough to not be able to count on your fingers, but it was enough to feel guilt for it. Especially when you remember the way he’s treated you.
You and Chris would be perfectly described as a tragedy.
There was no happy ending for either of you, together or not. When you two were together, it was easy to wear this façade that you both loved each other; that you both cared deeply about the others feelings. But inside, it was nothing but counterfeit infatuation.
From the start, you and Chris should’ve known how this would end. When you and him started dating, it was easy to fall in love with him; his boyish charm, his charisma, his pretty face. But after months of trying and begging for his attention and his love, he chewed you up and spat you back out. Yet, Chris spends each night, wishing he was the one pleasing you instead of some random girl pleasing him. No matter the amount of hookups he has, they can’t replace you. He hates it, he fucking despises it. Who gave you the right to occupy his every waking thought? Especially when he was the one that treated you like shit.
By now, you’ve come to terms with the fact no one else could make you feel the way Chris does.
The dates you’ve been on, the random, spontaneous hookups you’ve picked up on rare occasions, and even the several people you’ve messaged back and forth with over the years. No one was him. You’ve gotten used to the loneliness of it all, not having a lover to soothe you and ground you. Just old memories of a past one that doomed you to be devoted to him.
There are instances, at scattered times, where you recall that you were the one that escaped from his grasp.
You were sure Chris manipulated others into his intoxicating presence, begging and pleading for his attention. Despite your beliefs, Chris’s new targets are beseeching for his thoughts to run away from you. Because, even with his poisonous ways, Chris still needs you. He will never stop begging for you to stay.
Love is devoting yourself to someone else.
Love is suicide.
#chris sturniolo x reader#chris sturniolo x you#chris sturniolo#chris sturniolo imagine#christopher sturniolo#christopher sturniolo x reader#chris sturniolo smut#matt sturniolo x reader
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Miscellaneous Childhood Mira doodles with Euphrasie + HCs of what her parents looked like (this isn’t canon this is just my take on it based on what little information adrienne gives and also the game itself gives on what Mirabelle was like precanon etc. Drawing of my hcs of Mirabelle parents designs as well as an insanely long character study/ theorizing on Mirabelle was like pre canon is under the cut:
“Ocean why do you assume she might not be on the best of terms / isn’t close with her biological parents” it’s like a combination of things tbh? Mirabelle mentions repeatedly how much the people of the House of Change, especially Euphrasie has done so much in helping her learn and grow into the person she is today. Throughout the game she talks about how much she cares about/ misses different people in the game and how they are all important to her. You’ve got the head Housemaiden Euphrasie, who did everything in her power to protect her at the cost of herself, was mirabelle’s mentor and even gave Mirabelle blessing of being immune to the King’s Time freezing powers. You’ve got Claude, Mirabelle’s roommate that she cares about despite sometimes getting on her nerves ( she knows how dedicated Claude is to helping others and stopping the king etc), her other fellow housemaidens, the people she knows in dormont and of course all her companions that chose to help her on the journey to stop the king in the first place (Isabeau Bonnie Odile and Siffrin) she loves very much. Initially before getting any information from the in character QnA or Twitter or the QnA on Reddit, I had assumed that her biological parents were dead or that she never met them or had them to begin with but it’s not the case here.
Mirabelle talks about that when she first arrived at the house / prior to getting there she didn’t know how to do a lot of things basic skills. Siffrin also mentioned that the journey itself really changed her since he first met ( because initially she was a lot more shy but now she’s more confident in herself as of canon events in the game). Mirabelle said that she was taught by Euphrasie and the other house maidens. It’s giving the vibes of someone who arrived at the house ( whether by personal conviction to run away and find people who will understand her / that she can hope to understand and connect to) or her parents dropped her off there because it would be easier for them to do at a young age.
M: {The Head Housemaiden...I have to save her...}
I: […]
M: {The Head Housemaiden...She's such a wonderful person." "She helped me out so much! I couldn't do anything before I came to the House, I could barely sew my own clothes, and she helped me, she taught me..." "I wouldn't be the person I am without her!"}
Despite all of this she doesn’t talk about her biological family at all not even in passing despite the whole “ everyone and everything as we know it in the country could be frozen in time for good if things don’t go well” ( which is noticeable in comparison to how easily she can talk about how much other people in her life has cared for her and how much she wants to save them all from the kings destruction). In a in character QnA session when the subject of families / parents was brought up she has a very stilted and awkward response. The tone she’s answering it in feels like she’s hesitating or at the very least isn’t a 100% sure on how she feels about her parents ( and in truth probably hasn’t or didn’t want to think about them). We see the kind of way Mirabelle talks when it’s about people she loves in game before! It’s passionate and confident and full of love/ conviction that she cares for them! So seeing that in comparison to this is well..this isn’t having that energy truth be told. (Screenshot for those that don’t use Twitter)
Also Adrienne a while back posted official character playlists for each of the characters on Spotify to give insight to everyone on what the characters vibes were like and the song choices were very striking to me. The song choice for Mirabelle in particular that made me go !!!! was seeing Elle me dit by MIKA . For those who are unaware of the song and what it’s about, it’s essentially a song about a mother telling her kid all her high expectations of him and how she’s disappointed in the way he’s living his life.
Given how Adrienne stated that mirabelles parents don’t understand her and she in turn doesn’t get them either, I wouldn’t be surprised if she’s heard similar sentiments growing up / had that sort of pressure to Change or behave in a certain way. ( Even with her dedication the Change belief making her happy Mirabelle still will lament about how she’s afraid that she’s not doing enough as a house maiden or that her identity of being aroace somehow would upset others/ makes her feel alienated in comparison to how everyone else can change easily. ) This combined with the fact she canonically has anxiety and has moments where she isn’t very confident in herself is.. deeply worrying! Yes I’m aware that people can just have those types of thoughts even in a good supportive environment/ experiences but the combination of all those factors isn’t exactly aspiring confidence.
Anyway that’s my ramble I hope you all enjoyed my analysis/ headcanons yipeee ^_^
#isat#isat game#in stars and time#in stars and time game#in stars and time spoilers#isat spoilers#isat act 2 spoilers#isat act 3 spoilers#isat fanart#in stars and time fanart#isat mirabelle#in stars and time mirabelle#mirabelle chevalier#the bitter ocean arts#isat head housemaiden#in stars and time head housemaiden#isat euphrasie#in stars and time euphrasie#the bitter ocean talks#isat siffrin#isat odile#isat isabeau#isat bonnie#isat claude#in stars and time siffrin#in stars and time odile#in stars and time bonnie#in stars and time claude#in stars and time isabeau
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Made in the USA: Wage Theft, Fraud and Hidden Sweatshops
Unrolled twitter thread by derek guy (@dieworkwear)
4 Oct 24 • Read on X
ALT enabled on all images. Video has closed captions but is not transcribed.
Not trying to create a pile-on here. But let's talk about why something might still be made in unethical conditions even though it bears a "made in USA" tag. 🧵
The first thing to understand is that not all workers are covered by US labor laws. You might assume that workers get paid a minimum wage (after all, it says "minimum"). In fact, many garment workers in the US toil under what's known as the piecework system.
Piecework means you get paid not by the amount of time you work but the number of operations you complete. This system should be familiar to many of you. As a writer, I get paid per word. The pay is the same whether it takes me 100 or 10 hours to write a 1,000 word article.
My situation is fine bc I get paid enough to eat. But for a garment worker, the pay structure can be peanuts: three cents to sew a zipper or sleeve, five cents for a collar, and seven cents to prepare the top part of a skirt. These are real numbers for LA-based garment workers.
Piecework is how companies skirt minimum wage laws. Among labor organizers, the term "wage theft" refers to the difference between what a worker should have earned under min wage laws and what they actually earned through the piece rate system.
This system is incredibly common. A 2016 UCLA Labor Center study showed the median piece-rate worker in Los Angeles scrapes together $5.15 per hour—less than half the state’s mandated minimum wage. Labor conditions are also very bad: poor ventilation, dusty air, rats and mice.
A Federal Department of Labor investigation the same year found that 85 percent of Los Angeles garment factories were breaking labor laws. In 2016, these violations amounted to $1.3 million in back wages owed to 865 workers in a sample of 77 factories. This is wage theft.
In 2021, labor organizers won a fight to get piecework banned in California. But two years later, it's still incredibly common. I interviewed an LA-based garment worker who toils 12 hrs a day for $50. She sleeps in the corner of a kitchen. From my article in The Nation:
Currently, there's a new fight get piecework banned nationwide through the FABRC Act. I would link, but Twitter throttles threads that have outbound links, so I would prefer if you Google how you can support this legislation. Or follow @GarmentWorkerLA for more info.
The other reason why a "made in USA" tag may not mean much has to do with how the label is applied.
When you see this label inside your garment, what do you assume? Think about this before moving on to the next tweet.
The Federal Trade Commission has pretty strict rules on who gets to apply that label. For clothes, the item has to be cut and sewn in the US using materials that were made in the US. The FTC tries to match its rules with the common understanding of what "made in US" means.
If you're a giant company like Levi's or LL Bean, you may have lawyers who are advising you on these rules. This is why you see labels like "imported," which means the item was made abroad. Or "made in the US from imported materials" when they can't meet the MiUSA standard.
But it's incredibly common for companies to violate FTC rules. In 2022, the FTC fined the pro-Trump brand Lions Not Sheep $211k for labeling their t-shirts "made in USA" when the shirts were actually imported from China and other countries.
The company was basically importing blanks from China, ripping out the "made in China" label, screen printing the shirt in the US, and then applying a new screen-printed "made in US" label. CEO Sean Whalen claimed he was being persecuted for his pro-Trump views.
But the whole thing started bc Whalen made a video about how his customers are price sensitive, so he imports blanks from China. That's what kicked off the FTC investigation. So while this mislabeling is common, it's hard to get caught unless you make a video about your crimes.
The truth is that making a t-shirt in the USA according to FTC standards will result in a relatively expensive garment. Heddels and Velva Sheen both produce shirts in the US from US grown cotton. The first is $26; second is $90 for a two-pack.
Once you add things such as screenprinting—or if you want a more unique cut and not just basic blanks—the costs go up. This is why Bikers for Trump sourced their merch from Haiti. They knew their customers would not pay an extra $8 for true made-in-USA production.
Today, there are countless companies that make merch for other organizations. They source their t-shirts from a variety of places—some made in the US, most not—and then screenprint a design and fulfill orders. This way, the other org doesn't have to do any work but marketing.
When you see a screenprinted t-shirt for $20, ask yourself: Where was the material grown? Where were the yarns spun? Where was the cutting, sewing, and finishing performed? Where was the screenprinted done? What were the wages and labor conditions along these steps?
I'm not a nationalist, so I don't prioritize American jobs over foreign ones. But I do care about fair wages and labor protections. Just because something was made abroad doesn't mean it was made in a sweatshop. Just because it was made in the US doesn't mean fair wages.
Paying more for a garment is also no guarantee of ethical manufacturing. But when the price of a garment is so low, you leave little on the table for workers. Just because you see a $20 t-shirt that says "made in USA" doesn't mean it was made fairly.
Please don't harass the person who posted that original tweet. My intention is not to cause harm or stress for anyone. Only to help shed light on what goes into garment manufacturing, fair labor, and labeling. Hopefully, you will consider these issues when shopping.
For the inevitable question: "How do I make sure my clothes were made ethically?" This is very difficult to answer in a thread. My simplest answer is that we should elect pro-worker politicians, fight for pro-labor laws, and empower unions so workers can advocate for themselves.
--------------------End----------------------
TL; DR: Doesn't matter if it's the US, if it's not union it's probably a sweatshop. And not all merch is priced high because of fair labour conditions (looking at Taylor Swift and Beyoncé). Look for supply chain transparency.
#sweatshops#fashion#american sweatshop#chappell roan merch#sweatshirt#chappell roan#merchandise#made in usa#garment industry#fast fashion#worker rights#labour rights#labour unions#capitalism#worker exploitation#us politics#us law#knee of huss
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IT'S DONE! I made a book! I never thought I'd ever be able to make a book. Sure mistakes were made but it was still a fun process and I learned so much from making this first one.
This a binding of The Wayhaven Chronicles IF but with my personal Detective's choices included and the resulting text smoothed out to read more like a novel.
Honestly, I thought something like this would be way beyond my skill set but it wasn't as scary as I thought once I got started. Definitely check out @renegadeguild for some book making and typesetting guides and their discord is super friendly and helpful as well.
If you want to learn from my mistakes I'll go into some trials and tribulations under the cut.
I'm not sure how well this book will hold up long term but that's ok! It was more about learning and I'll make some adjustments and try again with the same text probably.
Typsetting
Margins - need to make them bigger. I mostly read paperbacks so I was going for that format with narrower margins but then when I ran into paper problems, I didn't have a ton of room for trimming.
There was an option on the imposer to add dotted lines to the center fold and I clicked that but they're visible still even after binding. Could be that I needed to sew my signatures tighter and that would help but regardless I don't think I need them in the future so I'll be skipping that feature.
The font was intentionally small, along with the margins, because I was trying to minimize the number of signatures I was dealing with for a first project. I'll bump it up in the future.
Paper (so much wrong)
So the grain should run parallel to the spine but I couldn't find short grain paper. I read at some point that someone recommended using sketch books instead because that should be the right grain. It was not, at least not what I bought, so it still ended up going the wrong way.
The sketch note book I bought had perforated pages. It made them easy to get out but I didn't realize that the page widths were inconsistent until everything was printed out. The paper width varied by at least 1/8 of an inch. I wasn't planning on trimming my pages but my top was super uneven because of this so an attempt at trimming was made. It could have gone worse (there was no blood) but the trimming could have been a lot better too.
Should have just used printer paper. The results would have been the same.
Making Book Cloth
Used the Heat and Bond method with some spare fabric and it worked pretty well. The problem was when it came to adding backing. I'd read tissue paper or even plain paper so I grabbed some piecing paper that was close at hand. That was a mistake. It was good quality fabric so it was thicker already and the paper backing made it too thick. I could barely fold it over and it kept wanting to flip up. It's the spine fabric and I'm still concern it's going to do this in the future.
Used tissue paper for the marbled looking fabric and it was much easier to work with.
Book Board
Not measuring right was all on me. The rice box worked in a pinch but I think it will be prone to bending. Got me the experience I needed be wouldn't be my go-to material for a project of this size.
Glue
I used Elmer's All Purpose and it got the job done but, again, probably not going to hold up the best long term. However, I'm glad I didn't buy PVA and basically waste it on this project. Elmer's was good and cheap enough for practice. I'll be getting some PVA for future projects.
#the wayhaven chronicles#twc#bookbinding#life at nerdy holler#nerdy makes a book#Already poking the typeset for a second attempt#I really and truly am pleased with this though#even if it isn't super fancy or didn't come out exactly like I wanted#so jealous of the fancy htv titles and cover designs people make#but sadly I don't know anyone with a cricut or similar to make it
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Brozone headcanons
Clay is the type of brother to not believe what any of the others tell him. Whether they're lying to him or not, he don't believe them
John Dory can get his brothers to fall asleep in minutes. He's got all the tricks that knock them out. They worked when they were kids and still work now that they're adults.
Whoever ends up with John will get a wonderful lil house husband. He can cook, clean, bake, sew, and take care of children. Basically a house husband (or pod in this case)
John definitely dated Delta Dawn. They broke up bc they were too similar and too different. This was shortly after the band broke up and before Delta became queen. They were both young and adventurous. They wanted to travel the world together but Delta had responsibilities that she couldn't leave.
Floyd had ONE girlfriend. When he got on his own, Floyd told people he was bisexual bc he knew he wasn't straight but he thought he liked girls. He and that girl broke up on good terms bc she understood when he told her he's gay.
Floyd is scared of clowns
Bruce probably traumatized the little brothers more than John Dory did. He was the one that would force them to go into a haunted house, purposely jump out with a scary mask on type stuff
Drinks of choice: JD prefers whiskey, Bruce likes margaritas and brandy (obviously), Clay doesn't drink often, he likes white wine while he reads, Floyd likes SHOTS SHOTS and mixed drink (club/party drinks), branch doesn't drink much either but likes wine and occasionally mixed drinks.
Floyd is the holder of all the family secrets. He's really good at keeping them secret. Bruce and John are too but they're also known for telling embarrassing stories so none of the brothers want to tell them their secrets and risk it getting leaked
John is incredibly handy, he's very good at fixing most things. He can FIX things most of the time. He's no good at building.
All the boys are hopeless romantics
When one of the brothers (excluding Bruce in this case) get married after reuniting, they are all excitedly helping plan the wedding
Floyd can walk in heels
John Dory handles his machete very well. Nothing gets cut that he doesn't want cut. He also flips it around like a butterfly knife
When JD and Spruce went out to those teenage parties, they had a silent rule of one of them had to stay sober to make sure the other didn't do anything stupid, was safe and they both got home in enough time to get some sleep before having to wake up for the day. Spruce made sure John didn't wander off while stoned and listened to him talk whatever came to his high mind. John Dory made sure Spruce didn't eat something he wasn't supposed to while stoned or do anything stupid while drunk. It was never discussed but they knew that one of them had to be responsible for the other
Despite the band getting back together, both John and Floyd have sole careers that take off. Floyd is more for the performing and shows, JD is more for releasing songs and disappearing for several months. Floyd is selling out shows, John is dropping a song on YouTube that blows up within the first ten minutes. Brozone fans eat it up
While on stage and interacting with fans, the boys do very different things. John Dory leans towards the crowd and the fans go wild, he's a bit taken back but blows them a kiss (cue someone fainting). Bruce still plays up the heartthrob card, showing off his body, a fan yells and calls him daddy. He whispers into his mic "I didn't give you permission to call me that." in a flirty tone, cue the deafening screams. Clay was always shocked a little bit when fans start screaming when he gets close to the end of the stage, he's talking into his mic like "you good? You need something?" which causes the fans to all scream something at him. Floyd is the most memeable, hes making faces and sitting on the edge of the stage. He didn't used to that but after V&V he gets tired pretty quick. So he often ends up laying on the stage, his leg hanging off, his mic by his head along with a bottle of water. Clay kicked him off once and nobody knows if it was on purpose or not. Branch is NOT used to the fans. They're screaming at him and he's backing away. He's also very memeable until he gets more used to it. He didn't perform as much as his brothers (by that i mean he only truly performed once)
Bruce teaches John Dory how to surf. After several hours he gets the hang of it, it's like skateboarding only rougher.
Bruce sometimes watches his boys and sees him and his bros. Theyre wrestling and he can practically see himself, Clay and Floyd on the floor of their Grandma's pod
Grandma Rosiepuff spanked JD and Bruce with a wooden spoon. By the time she stopped, Clay was old enough for him to be next, so he got lucky. The wooden spoon she used had a wooden chunk taken out of it from when she hit John once. They find it while going through her old stuff that Branch had.
"Hey look it's the whooping spoon!"
"The what?!"
"The whooping spoon. The spoon grandma used to spank us."
"What makes you say that?"
"You see this chunk taken out, that's from my ass."
#trolls#brozone#trolls john dory#trolls floyd#trolls clay#trolls bruce#branch trolls#funny#trolls headcanon#trolls headcanons#trolls hcs#brozone hc#brozone headcanons#trolls band together#trolls 3
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a tip for people with trichotillomania: if youre looking for an alternate activity to replace hair pulling, you should consider getting into textile art, something like weaving - especially forms of weaving that you can do anywhere:
crochet
lacemaking (crochet, but smaller)
hand weaving
weaving on a hand loom
ive been struggling with trich for a long time and none of the many alternate activities and stim toys ive tried have helped or stuck for long - but weaving has been a huge game changer for me because by weaving i'm giving myself the "pulling" sensation that i'm seeking without pain or shame, PLUS i get the satisfaction of having a lovely art piece at the end!
despite what the internet will tell you, weaving is actually very cheap and easy to pick up if youre physically able to do it, have access to some kind of yarn, thread, paper, or grass, and if youre willing to make mistakes.
this fall/winter im planning on making a guide on how to get started weaving for beginners, and i'll post it on here when i do. in the meantime feel free to send me questions and i'll respond when i can :)
terms to google if you're interested:
weaving in the round
picture frame loom
peg loom diy nails
diy friendship bracelet cardboard loom
basic crochet chain (you'll probably want a video for this, it's hard to communicate crochet through words or pictures)
other forms of textile art that might help:
knitting
sewing (clothing, stuffed animals, curtains, bedding...)
embroidery (you can make patches!)
rug making
quilting (most people nowadays use a sewing machine, but you can do it by hand too!)
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(December 7, 2023) Bryansk School Shooting - Alina Afanaskina
-- I already posted this a little ago here. If you want to see the footage and the crime scene photos uncensored then they're there.
The Shooter's Profile
Alina Afanaskina was a 14 year old student from 8-”A” class at Bryansk's 5th Gymnasium (formerly School #70). Alina was a type of a person who didn't communicate closely with anyone. Everyone who asked about her was basically repeating the same things: calm, loner, unremarkable, not active on social networks. Even the class teacher preferred talking to Alina's twin-sister, Daria, because Alina always was very silent and never came up with any questions/initiative. Teachers periodically were bringing up the subject of Alina's socialization to her mother and sister, although at the same time they didn't have any complaints about her grades or general behavior.
Alina had two siblings, including twin-sister Daria (Dasha). Her mom is a courtroom cleaner and dad worked in a private security company. Neighbors were perceiving them as good people, a nice and normal family, with a friendly father, though more reserved mother and daughters (who, allegedly, weren't hanging out with other kids at the yard). They didn't suspect any sort of violence in that household, as well as e.g. alcohol abuse; father doesn't drink. The third sibling is known to be a 28-year-old sister who lives in Moscow with her husband for a long time.
The Shooting
On December 7, 2023, Alina refused to eat breakfast. The last two words that she said to her mother were "Don't howl,” (Не вой), which the woman didn't understand. Next, Alina and her sister left the house. They both decided to skip the first lesson - geography and go to a second one - biology. Daria arrived there on time, like everyone else. Around 10 minutes later, when students started repeating their homework with teacher, Alina entered the classroom - with her father's shotgun and dressed all in black (shirt, trousers, combat boots with a knife in one of them, tactical glove), differently from her usual white clothes. Alina opened fire, killing one student, injuring five others, and then turning the gun on herself.
Injuries and Deaths
Alina Afanaskina - shot herself and died.
Maria "Masha" Nesmachnaya - the victim who was killed.
(Masha was going to turn 15 on the 27 December. She is survived by her mother, stepfather and two brothers (one older and one younger who is also attending the same gymnasium), grew up in a religious family. Was mainly interested in cooking, sewing, knitting; also played the guitar and attended music school. According to her mom, she dreamed about becoming a doctor and saving people's lives in the future. Masha's mom described her as a type of person who preferred to avoid conflicts and was on good terms with everyone. In fact, she talked about Alina in a positive manner - saying that she's quiet, but nice and kind.)
Timofey B - shot in the left forearm, thigh, knee and chest
Petr E. - in the lung; his spleen, back, lower back and shoulder were damaged as well.
Timur D. - shot in the shoulder by six bullets: four of them wounded him and flew out, passed through his body, the other two got stuck in it.
Evelina K. - was injured on the chest.
Vitalina D. - wasn't shot, but broke her leg, while trying to escape.
Ofelya Mkrtchyan - a teacher who covered students with her own body when Afanaskina opened fire on them (and also needed medical treatment after it, though not seriously; no injuries among adults were officially reported) - recalled that Alina said absolutely nothing during the whole thing. Despite teacher's attempts to attract her attention, calling her name, she didn't even look at the woman, instead being focused on shooting classmates. Ofelya didn't notice any warning signs before tragic events. In her eyes Alina was a „capable, tactful and diligent” student, „calm, polite and responsible” on daily basis.
The Aftermath
The firearm Alina used during the massacre belongs to her father, Dmitry Afanasyev/Afanaskin, who is currently under police custody of investigation on how she procured the firearm. Dmitry denied all accusations of domestic abuse, claiming that he loves his children, worked as much as he could to provide them everything they needed and "was very happy about becoming a father again after so many years”. He didn't favor any of the twins; they were close with each other, shared the room, studied well.
As a former athlete, Dmitry was often encouraging his children to physical activities and healthy lifestyle since they were little - Alina and Daria were even attending dance school (in a group centered around hip-hop) for at least two years.
However, around a year prior to the shooting, Dmitry started spending less time at home due to work. People from the neighborhood were seeing sisters mostly alongside their mother.
Alina didn't leave any journal, suicide note or explanation behind her actions. All Telegram channels, claiming to be created by her, are fake.
Investigators suspected that Dasha might know about her sister's plans, but during interrogation she denied everything. When her parents appeared at the school right after the attack, girl started crying and kissing her mother's hands in panic. She also couldn't sleep for three days because of the trauma caused by events.
The media started pointing at bullying as the most possible motive. In the general opinion of teachers, students, parents - no such thing happened, Alina wasn't harassed; isolating herself from school peers was her own choice. She didn't have any enemies and treated everyone equally, just didn't want to talk with them due to her introverted attitude. "There was no bullying. We don't know why she did it. We can't say anything else” - stated girl's classmate. Although, another student interviewed right on the day of events, said the exact opposite: "Yes, they bullied her, but not always! She was normal until they told her: you can't do anything to us, you're helpless.”
A note found in Alina's backpack with a text about how she „needs to meet with a friend”, that attracted a bit of attention, was most likely some kind of a grammar assignment, as the matching diagrams about parsing sentences were written nearby.
The motive is unknown so you can come up with your own conclusion as to why.
All of the injured victims have already left hospitals. Gymnasium is open again, but class 8A was transferred to distance learning. Masha was buried in Bryansk's central cemetery, while Alina - in the small village between Bryansk and Seltso.
#tcc#tccblr#tc community#truecrime#true crime#alina#alinaafanaskina#school shooters#school shooter#schoolshooter#schoolshootout#informational#educationalpurposes
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Deokbong/Monster from Windreaker bf headcanons for fem reader. love your work and tyia :D
⠀ 「 𝐦𝐨𝐧𝐬𝐭𝐞𝐫 𝐡𝐞𝐚𝐝𝐜𝐚𝐧𝐨𝐧𝐬 」
⠀ ━━ 🌷 💕
✦ 𝗦𝗨𝗠𝗠𝗔𝗥𝗬 ⨟⠀ Basic headcanons for Monster with a s/o!
✦ 𝗣𝗔𝗜𝗥𝗜𝗡𝗚 ⨟⠀ Deokbong 〞Monster 〞 + gn!reader✦ 𝗔𝗨𝗧𝗛𝗢𝗥𝗦 𝗡𝗢𝗧𝗘 ⨟⠀I love monster in the webtoon man, he’s so cute 😇
✦ 𝗪𝗔𝗥𝗡𝗜𝗡𝗚𝗦 ⨟⠀ None
⠀ ★ ⠀ | The only way I can see someone getting with Monster is if they were in a long term committed relationship. So they’ve been with him before the injury that stopped his football career. Pretty much a highschool sweetheart.
✦ Definitely teaches you how to sew, all you have to do is ask.
✦ If you already know how to, you guys sew together and make each other cute little items
✦ Since you’ve been there since day one, you know how to read this man like a book. It comes in handy, he’s on the quiet side and doesn’t really speak. So reading body language is key.
✦ I like to think he’s very handy? He knows how to work with tools and apply his knowledge. For example, if you need some measures or something installed? He’s your guy. If you need some furniture placed together? He’s got it.
✦ If you’re knowledgeable in the field, or if you’re not he’ll always give tips on what helps and doesn’t. Dropping tips is a habit of his.
✦ Physical touch still gets him flustered, quality time or gift giving would be his love language.
✦ I think he has a lot of hobbies, so he ends up roping you into them. Makes him feel more connected to you (:
✦ Shopping for clothes that fits him is a pain so you ended up learning how to crochet for him. He ends up with a bunch of sweaters and cardigans
✦ He’s super big on cuddling, big spoon or little spoon?? The man does not care!!
✦ Type of bf who likes shopping with you and does skin care, like face masks and matching pjs. He’s totally down! Y’all are locked in 😇
#「 ★ 」 [𝐌] 𝗔𝗥𝗟𝗬𝗡𝗘 ➜ writes ™#windbreaker x reader#windbreaker webtoon#windbreaker headcanon#wind breaker#windbreaker#webtoon#oneshot#oneshots#monster x reader#monster#windbreaker hcs#monster windbreaker
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about thirteen or fourteen years ago @inkylizard told me about this show Sleep No More (description beneath the cut) they'd seen in an early run in Boston, and i had such bittersweet feelings listening to them talk about it because 1) it was absolutely my kind of thing, and 2) it was basically impossible to see it because it was so far away (i'm Scotland-based)
and since then i probably thought about the show more than most people who have seen it. i ended up working some of what kit described to me into my own music and shows, in a very vague sense
anyway, fast forward over a decade and i'm in NYC for ten days prior to tour and kit tells me that Sleep No More is still on, and it's about to close forever so this is my first and last chance to see it
so anyway
i finally saw it and it was amazing. for once hype wasn't the joy killer. it was inspiring and empowering and it's made me want to explore some of the more outlandish ideas that have been tickling my brain in terms of music writing/performance
i almost went again today, but low energy mixed with a fear of not wanting to dilute the magic by returning to the source convinced me otherwise. i think it means more to me to wait over a decade to see it, and then never be able to see it again.
Brief description of Sleep No More if you haven't seen it and aren't aware of it, told from the perspective of someone who had it described to them once and then saw it once 13 years later and has done no reading or research beyond that. Apologies if I describe it in a way that makes you squirm and go "nooo you aren't explaining it right" 💜
Sleep No More is an adaptation of Macbeth told mostly through the medium of Dance and Vibes. It takes place across the breadth and depth of an entire five floor building called the McKittrick Hotel, which is a dreamlike network of TV/movie-quality sets (a ballroom, a hotel, a city apartment, hell, a street of open shops, a mental hospital, a forest, witches' dens, a huge room full clocks connected to a tiny prayer vestibule, there's too many to mention) and masked audience members are encouraged to wander freely and explore the entirety of the building in any way they like
all the sets are fully explorable and designed to be examined in close detail. if you dig around you'll find letters, medical records, diaries, a fully stocked and unguarded sweet shop, hidden dressing rooms, discarded props, again much more than I could list off here. rooms have backrooms which have other backrooms. secret passageways connect parts of the building/story to other parts.
and through all this the cast are whirling and screeching and sprinting from place to another with little regard for who is or isn't following their storyline. at one point I was one of only two people watching an actor sew up a disembowled teddybear in a child's bedroom - and in the mirror, the same bedroom was reflected covered in blood. at another I was the only person watching a nurse tuck a man made of rocks into a hospital bed. at another, I turned a corner and one of the witches (with about twenty people in tow struggling to keep up) barrelled into me on their way to a scene elsewhere (he stopped and gave me a boop on the nose). another time, i walked into what I thought was an empty interrogation room only to realise after *far too long* that one of the characters was hiding in there with me
and on top of all this, each character has a scene they will only perform to one other audience member chosen by them
the magic for me is that not only can you not see the whole show in a single visit, but that it's basically impossible for anyone to see the whole show period no matter how hard they try. someone i know has seen it seven times and i've seen parts of it that they didn't even know about. it creates a sense of longing for what you'll never see, a sense of loss for the parts you missed, and a deep sense of personal connection with what you were lucky enough to see
what a banger
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