#Sculpting And Modeling Tools
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tabvlarasa1 · 2 years ago
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Stone Carving Tools - Tabvlarasa.com
Tabvlarasa.com - There are several different kinds of stone carving tools that may be utilised. The most typical are hammers and chisels, although other options include pneumatic, electric, and hydraulic tools. There are benefits and drawbacks to each kind of instrument.
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normalbirb · 6 months ago
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my stubborness is paying off
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nonbinarynightcrawler · 6 months ago
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if you peel back exactly one layer of the excuse "the tools don't make it easy for 3d artists to make black/curly/textured hairstyles" underneath you will see "this is an industry-wide problem that I do not want to address because it would force me to admit that the tools have not been developed because that specific need is not seen as a priority"
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limewatt · 2 years ago
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hghghhh i did a bunch of shit today i’m tired. art stores are fun to look around in though
#i went to go get a physical then got bloodwork (dominant hand :[ gonna be a pain to do shit) then i went to two art stores#i finally used some art store gift cards i was given as gifts#buying stuff without using my money is great i love this and also i feel sick at making impulse purchases for shit i know i won’t use#i got some clay and some armature wire which i WILL use even if it kills me i want to dabble in sculpting#but instead of getting tools. which i need. i got a watercolour painting set. and i know in my heart i will not use it more than once#i thought ‘surely the other store i have a gift card for will have some sculpture tools right?’ and IT DIDNT#so i got a plastic skull cause thats a logical conclusion#i knowwwwwwww this is overall a W#i finally used this gift card i’ve had for a year and started using one i just got#and i only paid 1 single dollar of my own money. 98 cents i gave a loonie. one coin i spent. i could recoup that by looking under the couch#BUT NOW I HAVE MORE SHIT THAT WILL STARE AT ME AS I TRY TO SLEEP#IM SORRY ACRYLICS IM SORRY CANVASES IM SORRY BRAND NEW WATERCOLOUR KIT#IM A DIGITAL ARTIST I HATE WORKING IN PHYSICAL MEDIUMS BUT THEYRE SO ALLURING!!!!#the other day i got suddenly inspired#i finally used some shitty clay that i’ve had for years. and it was really extremely shitty to the point that i couldn’t work with it#and attempted to make a shitty figurine. but it’s shitty and the modeling materal is shitty and it sucks real bad#but making the armature with the too thick wire i had was fun and the idea of sculpting is fun so i want to give it a chance#so i got (hopefully) better clay that’s actually clay and wire#and i’ll learn how to actually make an armature#and try real hard#probably. hopefully.#aaaaaaaaaaaaa fuck it we ball fuck it we ball fuck it we ball#the least i can do is try!!!!!!
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roboromantic · 2 years ago
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ough I really oughta just pay for an Actual blender course instead of trying to teach myself via youtube tutorials and messing around bc holy adhd, batman
#I wanna MODEL I wanna SCULPT I wanna RIG and ANIMATE I wanna make MATERIALS I wanna figure out GEO NODES#and like. tutorials are nice and all but a lot of the time they don't generally explain /why/ things work#or what /exactly/ different tools do and are good for#I should probably try to focus on one aspect at a time. try to master modeling then sculpting then materials etc.#bc like ok I wanted to make a self-portrait kinda thing before the end of the month but things've been busy with my dad's fiance moving in#and also I've been in Minecraft hyperfixation mode for 2-3 weeks now with no sign of it letting up anytime soon#so I was spending more time gaming than learning blender#BUT a couple days ago I figured I could use that to my advantage and just. model my Minecraft skin#it's just cubes it couldn't be THAT hard right#*cue several hours of trying to figure out various ways of making materials bc I can't quite get them looking the way I want*#I did also make it a bit more interesting by making some stuff 3d and not just painted onto the cubes#I wanna try a couple more things before I post it tho#anyway point is I keep getting distracted and only really learning how to copy stuff#and sometimes not even that bc it doesn't work with the newest version or they skip a step that's obvious to THEM but not absolute beginners#I think part of it is I wanna share these Absolutely Perfect Finished projects when really I should be focusing on /making/ the project#I should start posting wips or something. make Yet Another sideblog for all my blender stuff#get distracted learning just enough html and css to make it look cool even though nobody looks at desktop versions of blogs anymore
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midwinterhunt · 8 months ago
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hot artists don't gatekeep
I've been resource gathering for YEARS so now I am going to share my dragons hoard
Floorplanner. Design and furnish a house for you to use for having a consistent background in your comic or anything! Free, you need an account, easy to use, and you can save multiple houses.
Comparing Heights. Input the heights of characters to see what the different is between them. Great for keeping consistency. Free.
Magma. Draw online with friends in real time. Great for practice or hanging out. Free, paid plan available, account preferred.
Smithsonian Open Access. Loads of free images. Free.
SketchDaily. Lots of pose references, massive library, is set on a timer so you can practice quick figure drawing. Free.
SculptGL. A sculpting tool which I am yet to master, but you should be able to make whatever 3d object you like with it. free.
Pexels. Free stock images. And the search engine is actually pretty good at pulling up what you want.
Figurosity. Great pose references, diverse body types, lots of "how to draw" videos directly on the site, the models are 3d and you can rotate the angle, but you can't make custom poses or edit body proportions. Free, account option, paid plans available.
Line of Action. More drawing references, this one also has a focus on expressions, hands/feet, animals, landscapes. Free.
Animal Photo. You pose a 3d skull model and select an animal species, and they give you a bunch of photo references for that animal at that angle. Super handy. Free.
Height Weight Chart. You ever see an OC listed as having a certain weight but then they look Wildly different than the number suggests? Well here's a site to avoid that! It shows real people at different weights and heights to give you a better idea of what these abstract numbers all look like. Free to use.
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howdoesone · 11 months ago
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How does one create miniature accessories for action figures?
Action figures are popular toys for children and collectors alike, but they often come with limited accessories. Making your own miniature accessories for action figures can add a personal touch and enhance your collection. Whether you are creating weapons, tools, or other props, there are several techniques and materials you can use to create custom accessories for your action figures. Continue…
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otterloreart · 24 days ago
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Steps of creating a 3D model replica from scratch
trace photos of character from available and cleanest angles. attempt to get a 90 degree*, front and back, side profile and straight on of the face. save additional reference photos such as bottom of body, back, and various extra angles without tracing which may help reference later on.
*more on angles later, but trying to get a 90 degree from each side is the most realistic and practical option if you dont actually have the character you're copying
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2. block out the body and head
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and by block i mean, yeah, its made out of elaborate rectangles
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4 aha, you thought I would hand sculpt those? no. no. I used the curve tool to add these swirls. And yes i exactly traced them over the drawings to match the original as best as possible. The end of the curve tool is flat by default so I added a few spheres to make the ends nice and round. (there is absolutely a way to make the ends of curves rounded but I did not feel like looking it up or messing with the settings)
this wasn't mirrored to the other side- I traced both sides of the body and the front from photos and sculpted the swirls for each side. I couldn't get a single photo of the swirls at the butt area so I just winged it.
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6 I am struggling to not make Cha Cha look angry.
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I feel like the eyes are basically traced off the original and yet she looks so much grumpier. maybe it just needs to be smoothed out?
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I added a little definition to the area around the eyes and I do think it looks a little better. The more definition I add in this stage the better, because I prefer this to sculpting. However, if you're more adept at sculpting you would probably not make this as detailed.
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7 Here she is after smoothing everything out in sculpt after remeshing, in both Eevee (left) and Cycles (middle/right). still trying to figure out how best to render things. For some reason her nose ended up lighter in cycles but i cant be bothered to fix that rn
On the previous step I made the elements of her face + ears mirrored but once I start sculpting I'm not using the mirror tool. In fact nothing ends up mirrored, even the back right foot is slightly shifted in position.
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this is probably not even the final version, I think i might redo the smooth/sculpt part and fiddle with the underlying shapes (basically go back a step)
Cha Cha's face. is one of the most difficult things to sculpt. It is extremely difficult to understand the shape of the underlying sculpt because there aren't any photos of her with the eye paint removed. There are so few of her out there I don't think anyone would willingly remove the paint to make a custom or anything unless it was in truly awful condition, and I dont think that has ever happened.
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I have saved dozens of references from a number of different sites- these pics here are from etsy, the above was from the wiki. Her eyes are different from every single other pony and pony and friends- they're so bulging, so round, the eyelashes are longer. It's wild.
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I can only see all the things that are wrong with it.
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It's basically impossible to get something like this 100% perfect unless you have like, a set of turnaround photos all from the same angle that you can match up to the camera. You can basically overlap references with the camera view but you will never know the exact angle so if you make edits from multiple angles like this you'll inevitably not match each angle and then have to go back and adjust the angles and then you're fiddling with it infinitely. That's why I usually go for the "trace 4 angles and make the rest up as you go along" method.
I don't want to spend _too_ long on every model I make- the Takara pony which took 6 months really shows how far down the rabbit hole I will go with something like this, and it's just not practical. But I think with a slight amount of fiddling I can match the reference a little better.
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patholopsy · 7 months ago
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Here's a list of Free tools and resources for your daily work!🎨
2D
• Piskelapp Pixel art + animation • Krita general digital painting + animation • Gimp image manipulation + painting • MapEditor Level builder (orthogonal, isometric, hexagonal) • Terawell manipulate 3D mannequin as a figure drawing aid (the free version has everything) • Storyboarder Storyboard
3D
• Blender general 3D software (modeling, sculpting, painting, SFX , animation…). • BlockBench low-poly 3D + animation. • Dust3D low-poly 3D (similar to Zbrush Zsphere)
Sound Design
• Audacity Audio editor (recording, editing, mixing) • LMMS digital audio workstation (music production, composition, beat-making). • plugins4free audio plugins (work with both audacity and lmms) • Beepcomp chiptune/8-bit/16-bit music synthesizer
Video
• davinciresolve video editing (the free version has everything) • OBS Studio video recording + live streaming.
2D Animation
• Synfig Vector and puppet animation, frame by frame. Easy. • OpenToon Vector and puppet animation, frame by frame. Hard.
↳ You can import your own drawings.
For learning and inspiration
• models-resource 3D models from retro games (mostly) • spriters-resource 2D sprites (same) • textures-resource 2D textures (same) • TheCoverProject video game covers • Setteidreams archive of animation production materials • Livlily collection of animated lines
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dreamgrlarchive · 1 year ago
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High Maintenance 101
Prissy Girl Beauty Regimens 🎀
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my prissy girl guide to beauty services and building a beauty lifestyle that fits you 💗
Skincare:
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Essential Skincare Routine ❤︎︎
twice daily, in the morning and at night
daytime: gentle cleanser, toner, serum, eye cream, moisturizer, SPF
prep and protect skin
nighttime: double cleansing with oil and cleanser, exfoliation, treatments, moisturizer
wash away the day and help skin accept treatments and actives during your beauty sleep
products will change depending on skin type and goals, but sequence will more or less stay the same
Face Masks + Treatments ❤︎︎
Face Masks -
typically done at home 1-3x/week
clay, gel, mud, cream, liquid
my fav masks at home:
aha + bha liquid mask by the ordinary: a literal overhaul of my pores. it’s refining and helps reduce texture and hyperpigmentation. 1-2 x/week
korean modeling mask: i use this after doing everything in my routine. it’s super cooling and smooths my skin out. the low temp of the mask reduces flushing of my skin and helps the steps in my routine absorb better. 2-3 x/week
Treatments -
done either 1-3x/week and/or exclusively at night
consumer grade Retinols, AHAs, BHAs at high strength
little extra things i like to use to enhance my routine:
gua sha, ice pack, rose quartz roller, however often i choose
Facials ❤︎︎
done every 1-2 months by licensed estheticians
often includes exfoliation and extraction
Classic Facial: cleanse, extract, massage, moisturize
HydraFacials: extracts pores while infusing serums to boost skin’s vitamin and nutrient content
dry, dehydrated skin
Microdermabrasion: microabrasive tool removes outermost, textured, damaged layer of skin using suction to reveal a smooth and refined new layer of skin
sun damaged, aged, textured skin or skin with hyperpigmentation
Chemical Peel: application of medical grade AHA, BHA, Lactic Acid, Fruit Enzymes, or Retinol to peel away top layers of skin over the course of 1-2 weeks
pore refining, brightening, and anti-aging
after care is crucial. skin will be peeling and sensitivity to sun is increased. SPF MUST be used. it’s heavily advised that clients stay home for the first few days.
HydroJelly Facial: facial made of electrolytes, algae, organic white grain oat flour, rice flour, and white willow bark powder. leaving your skin hydrated, plump, and nourished. forms a vacuum-like seal that compresses facial contours.
there are 25 different hydrojelly pro masks for most skin concerns you may have, check here
More Facials ❤︎︎
Contouring Facial: sculpting, tightening, and lifting of facial muscles
LED Facial: uses LED light to soothe inflammation, aiding in acne healing and prevention
Vampire Facial: plumps skin and improves wrinkles by extracting blood, removing its platelets, then either re-injecting it into the skin or applying it topically
Diamond File Facial: finely ground diamonds resurface skin by filing to improve dark spots
Glass Skin Botox: multiple tiny botox injections just below the surface of the skin. alleviate fine lines, redness, texture, and more achieving glass skin
AquaGold Facial: microinjections that combine vampire facial methods, hyaluronic acid, botox, stem cells, antioxidants, vitamins, peptides, etc. improves fine lines, wrinkles, pores, pigmentation, acne scarring, dryness, tone, texture, skin elasticity, and more
cite
Hair:
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Hair Care ❤︎︎
Wash Routines:
curly textured: wash and condition every 2-3 weeks, deep condition every 1-2 weeks
straight: wash and condition every 2-3 days, deep condition every 2-3 weeks
Styling ︎❤︎︎
Hair should have a style everyday! At home hairstyling is limitless and really depends on your taste and lifestyle. The everyday woman does her own her once every 1-4 weeks using natural hair products, heat, or other tools.
Professional Stylists:
hair is styled every 1-3 months: uses heat to straighten or curl, extensions to lengthen and add volume, shears to maintain/attain a shape and length
trim ends: every 6-8 weeks
hair color: touched up roughly every 6-8 weeks (depending on how fast your hair is growing and how fast your color will fade)
Silk Press:
after a clarifying wash and deep conditioning, natural hair is straightened using flat iron and/or pressing comb, then usually curled in feathers or pin curls to preserve the style
lasts 3-4 weeks depending on maintenance
preserved by wrapping hair at night, keep hands out of hair, and using a wide toothed comb only
can be further styled with different kind of rollers, or with pin curls
Braids:
afrocentric hairstyles typically done to protect hair while maintaining beauty
lasts 3-8 weeks
styles include knotless braids, faux locs, stitch braids, french braids, etc
Extensions:
hair added to natural hair to enhance length or volume
can be done at home with patience and proper materials
sew-in extensions: (my personal fav) 1-2 months
your natural hair gets braided down flush to your scalp and the bundles are sewn on by the wefts in a flat pattern typically with a section of hair left out to cover the wefts $100-600
microlinks: up to 4 months
i-tip extension is added to hair using micropliers, clippers and loop tool. takes far longer than most extension methods but looks the absolute most natural $500-1000
tape-in extensions: up to a year, touch ups every 4-6 weeks
medical grade tape is used to attach extensions to small sections of hair $200-400
clip-in extensions: 3-6 months
extensions are clipped on by the wefts. the hair itself can last up to six months, but it’s not recommended to sleep, shower, or swim with the extensions in $50-100
Natural Styles:
all last roughly 1-2 weeks at most. allowing hair to completely DRY is crucial for these styles. your natural hair can be further changed in styles like buns, puffs, etc once dry
natural hair essentials: scalp oil, leave in conditioner, detangling brush, wide tooth comb, curling cream, styling gel, edge control and edge brush
wash n’ go
wash and detangle, then use leave in conditioner to keep hair moist. oil on the scalp and ends is recommended for growth and healthy ends
bantu knots
a traditionally african style where the hair is cleanly sectioned (usually parted in a cute pattern) and twisted into knots. style can be worn just like this or taken down for curls
braid/twist out
a specific pattern of curls is achieved after hair is twisted or braided with curl preserving products. end result depends on how big your twists or braids are
roller set
hair is sprayed with water and curl cream applied before roller of your choice is added. hair is left to dry usually overnight for springy well formed curls
Brows and Lashes:
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Brow Shaping ❤︎︎
in salon or at home
Waxing - every 3 weeks
Threading- every 2-3 weeks
Razor Shaping - weekly
Brow Enhancement ❤︎︎
Tinting - monthly
can be done at home or by pro in the salon
Microblading - every 1-3 years + annual touch ups, exclusively professional work
cosmetic tattooing using a manual tool with nearly invisible hair-like needles to inject pigment in brows to create your desired brow look
Lash Enhancements ❤︎︎
*done exclusively by professionals
Lifts - every 6 weeks
basically a perm for your lashes to curl them semi-permanently for lashes to appear longer
Lash Extensions - new set every 6-8 weeks, fill ins every 2-3 weeks depending on quality and style
false individual strands of lashes glued to natural lashes to create semi-permanent length and/or volume
lash baths: wet lashes and apply a small amount of gentle cleanser or a “lash bath” to lashes. cleanse lashes and eyelids for about 10 seconds. hold a towel under your eye and use a nozzle bottle to flush soap and bacteria from lashes then dry with a disposable lint free towel. finish by brushing your lashes with a spoolie. daily.
Lash Styles:
Classic: one lash on each fan, thin lashes
Volume: fluffier lashes with more lashes on each fan
Hybrid: uses classic and volume lashes to make an alternated look
Russian: volume lashes made with very thin individuals, 5-6 extensions per natural lash, fanned out look
DIY Lash Extensions - lasts about a week (sometimes longer)
lash fragments or individual wisps are glued either under the lashes or on the lash line. KISS Falscara is a product that makes this concept simple and easy
Nails:
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all these services can be done at home with the proper materials and KNOWLEDGE
Classic Manicure ❤︎︎
every 1-2 weeks
nail service that consists of soaking hands in warm soapy water then drying them. nails are trimmed, filed, and buffed. cuticles are pushed back before applying nail polish (base coat, color, top coat), then finally cuticle oil is applied.
nails can be enhanced with rhinestones, glitter, or charms and attached with uv gel or nail glue
my fav styles are pink, cream, white, black and any french tip using those colors
Pedicure ❤︎︎
every 2-4 weeks
sister to the classic manicure, but can be upgraded depending on materials. steps are similar to manicure, except feet are scrubbed and exfoliated before feet are washed and dried to apply nail color
regular polish, acrylic, or gel can be used on toenails
Gel or Shellac Mani ❤︎︎
every 2-3 weeks
same process as the classic manicure, but traditional nail polish is replaced with uv base coat, gel or CND Shellac polish, then uv top coat that’s cured in a UV or LED lamp
longer lasting and more strong/3d than classic mani and is typically removed by soaking in acetone
Apres Gel-X Nails ❤︎︎
every 2-3 weeks
my personal fav at home nails using the artme yoko matsuda nails. after doing a classic mani sans polish, you apply a dehydrator and primer to prep nail for gel. then you apply builder gel to your natural nail and cure. then you apply that same builder to the nail extension after etching it using an electric drill or acetone. marry the gel to your nail and cure. then just shape to your liking and top with uv top coat. tutorial here
Acrylic Nails ❤︎︎
every 2-3 weeks, nails are fully grown out after 6 weeks
manicure done with liquid monomer and acrylic powder to build and extend natural nail, then polished with color or just a top coat if desired
Russian Mani ❤︎︎
every 4-5 weeks
essentially a gel manicure, but more invasive. the eponychium is snipped away so polish can be applied more closely and flush to the cuticle. this aids in visuals and longevity
service is seen as risky because the skin is more susceptible to fungal or bacterial infection. this is actually how i do my nails at home.
Body:
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Bathing ❤︎︎
2x daily
self explanatory, we all know how to bathe. i have other posts that talk about my shower and bath routines.
use a gentle cleanser then a scented body wash to complement perfume and smell fresh all day.
if needed, you can use body soaps with actives like aha, bha or retinol to exfoliate or treat skin at night
exfoliation - 2-3x/week. using scrubs, loofahs, bath brushes, etc.
Hair Removal ❤︎︎
shaving - 2-3x/week
waxing - every 3-5 weeks
sugaring - monthly
ipl device - a device that uses light therapy to slowly destroy hair follicles and unwanted pigment in skin. i use mine after every 5-6 shaves but i could really use it more often.
Vajacial ❤︎︎
1-2x/month
a “facial” for your lady area
the esthetician will first wax, then cleanse and apply an enzyme exfoliant. then they extract any blackheads or ingrown hairs from the area before applying a soothing mask usually in the jelly form.
Moisture and Hydration ❤︎︎
body cream or lotion - daily right after bathing to hydrate skin
body oil - daily to seal in moisture and protect skin from debris and dryness
masks - weekly to address particular skin concerns
ex. when i was having eczema flare ups on my back, i used a dead sea mud mask every 1-2 weeks to help treat it
done at home or at spa
glycolic, clay, mud, salicylic, etc.
Enhancement Procedures:
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the goal is to look younger and balance facial features. all these services are exclusively done by professionals usually in a medspa and are widely considered luxury.
Botox ❤︎︎
every 6-8 months; between brows, smile lines, outer corners of eyes, etc
discourages muscle movement to reduce wrinkles
Lifts ❤︎︎
lasts about 10 years; face, neck, brow, eyelids
skin is lifted to desired look, then excess skin is removed
Fillers ︎❤︎︎
every 6-12 months; under-eye, lips, jawline, wrinkle sites, cheekbones
injects acids (usually naturally occurring) like Hyaluronic Acid and Calcium Hydroxylapatite to add volume to your face
Body Contouring ❤︎︎
every 2-4 months until desired results are achieved
non invasive liposuction to achieve desired physique
CoolSculpting - cryolipolysis freezes fat cells for the body to the metabolize and and remove them
SculpSure - essentially the same as CoolSculpting, but uses heat and laser technology to destroy fat cells
Laser Hair Removal ❤︎︎
every 5-6 weeks; bikini, underarms, legs, arms
touch ups done every 1-2 years
hair growth is inhibited by exposing follicles to light at frequencies that kill them
Building the Regimen 🗒️💕:
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when making appointments with your “glam squad” you can stagger your services by week depending on what’s being done. for example you can get your mani and pedi done one week. then your facials, brows and lashes another week.
Things to Keep in Mind 💭💞:
these frequencies won’t be the same for everyone depending on personal wants, budgets, etc. but will most likely land somewhere in the ranges i gave. if you need touch ups or redos any sooner than i mapped out, then the service most likely was of poor quality.
anything done at home may or may not be up to the level of detail and longevity as salon or spa work. if you see yourself doing the majority of your beauty maintenance at home, this can save money but may end up taking more time than professional services. so it’s a give and take.
More Resources:
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manage your routines, services and products using a beauty binder
a look at my skincare routine
at home beauty treatments for the summer
my hair care routine at home
pretty on purpose by @shefromhouston
monthly beauty routine by @angeljpg
dream girl routines by me
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originalartblog · 8 months ago
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"Nawy what do you MEAN quick-ish 3D render it's got scratches and everything and I thought this was real for a minute!!"
Well, first, thank you very much that was the intention ❤, and second, you see, all speed is relative, and between finding my references, modeling, texturing and lighting, on top of having to learn how to make convincing gems, it still took me quite a few hours. I, however, cut corners everywhere for speed, and I wouldn't put this piece in a portfolio in its current state.
But! for the curious, I thought I could do a simple breakdown of how the witchcraft happens, without using too much specialized language to make it more accessible. In short,
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In this case, I’m talking about a 3D model that was textured (colours and stuff) and then lit (lights on!) to make a pretty final picture. The objective is not to make a tutorial, but to put in simple terms what a 3D artist does to make something go from this, to that:
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(people curious and/or trying to see if this interests them welcome)
I'm skipping the 3D modeling part altogether, since it isn't where most of the magic happens here. Just know that to be able to add colour and stuff on a 3D object, you have to go through the process or "unwrapping" it, which is like doing those foldable cubes in reverse
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and then we can draw on it!!
Now, the good stuff:
Surfaces (metal, plastic, fabric, wood, skin, etc.) have different looks that make you able to differentiate them on sight. To make something look realistic, you have to try to replicate real life into the 3D world (duh.)
The software developers took care of the hard part (math and coding), so as artists we can play with the parameters available to make something pretty. What those parameters are depend on which "recipe" we're using. One of the most common "recipes" for realistic results is called PBR: Physically Based Rendering, named that way because it's trying to replicate real-life light physics. In this case, the 4 basic parameters are called albedo, roughness, metalness, and normal.
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Albedo is the base colour of the surface (easy stuff). Roughness is to determine if a surface is rough or shiny. Metalness is to say if something is made out of metal or not. The normal is there to add all those tiny details you don't want to or can't sculpt on your 3D model (engravings, fabric bumps, etc.)
The roughness and metalness are black and white images because the information you're giving to the software is black = no and white = yes. It's easier to understand in the metalness image, where everything that is NOT a metal is black, and everything that IS a metal is white.
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The normal is a bit more complex, but in short, it uses the colours green and red to know what is up/down or left/right, and will help the software fake relief on top of the model. You don't make it by hand; it's computer-generated from other stuff I'm not getting into.
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With the technical stuff out of the way, we can actually use these. There are specialized softwares that will let you preview the results of each parameter in real time, so you can see what you're doing easily. This is what I have.
That software comes with some types of surfaces that are already set up, like the fabric in my piece, which was already 85% good for me straight out of the box. Then, it's up to me to use the tools available to decide how shiny a surface is, if there's dust or scratches and where, what colours things are, if there's metal parts, etc. That's where you can see a 3D artist's skills.
And finally, you bring it all together into a specialized software that can render 3D stuff and use those images on the corresponsing parameters, and then light the scene.
Because it all comes down to this: the light! For something realistic, light is vital to get right. You can pour your heart and soul into those tiny scratches, but if you don't light the scene correctly, well...
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So we carefully light the scene to get some nice highlights to make the textures look good and highlight our subject (it's basically a photography studio inside a computer)
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And then we add some camera effects...
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and voilà! pretty picture!!
... and if you somehow did notice something different with the bolo tie from my last post, I did find out while taking all these screenshots that I messed up my initial renders in a way that made everything darker than it was supposed to be and that's why my gold looked so muddy...
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I hope this was interesting and that you learned a thing or two!
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theskeletongames · 11 months ago
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I get asked this a lot, but I'm actually a vertex modeler. Meaning, I hardly if at all use the sculpting tools and just model using vertex point manipulation. (I'm actually terrible at using the sculpting tools) My model edge flow ends up clean af and the model is easier to edit and animate doing it this way. Here's a pic of my vertexes so you can see how I keep them somewhat on the lower to medium poly end and just use a non destructive subdivision modifier and a mix of sharp and smooth edges to define the form.
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purplealmonds · 6 months ago
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Experimenting with new ways to present my Mononoke 3D models. Watching them tenbin spin off-sync is oddly mesmerizing - like a pair of hanging mobiles swaying in the breeze.
These will be the first of (hopefully) a series and slightly cleaned up models!
Update 05/23/24: Now updated with colors! 🌈
Q&A below the cut!
How did you create these models? Using gratuitous amounts of reference images, I made schematics in Adobe Illustrator and/or Photoshop. Then I import the 2D images into Google Sketchup 2017 to sculpt! I used the camera animation feature to cobble together a spinning animation, which I then exported as a MP4 and converted to a GIF in Photoshop.
Why did you make these models? They were for my most recent Mononoke fan art. A lot of work went into these models, so I wanted to showcase them more thoroughly! Additionally, I noticed that fan artists had difficulty depicting these complicated props on-model. I want to contribute a resource which this community can draw from!
What other models do you intend to create? Coming down the immediate pipeline are the classic exorcism sword and medicine box. Later on, I want to tackle their 2024 counterparts. The current version of the 2024 sword model is too messy and needs remodeling. The 2024 medicine box hasn't been modeled yet, as I haven't collected enough references.
May I use these as reference? As long as it isn't being used for the likes NFTs and/or generative AI, yes! Credit is appreciated but not mandatory as these designs don't belong to me. I would love if you tagged me in your creations though!
Can you render these in a different camera angle? Yes, but it'll have to be an image rather than a GIF as I'm not familiar enough with SketchUp's animation tools to do much beyond this. Please send requests to my ask box!
Can you render these in different poses? Send me an ask with a description of the specific pose. Depending on its complexity I may be able to pull it off.
Can you make a colorized version of these? As of 05/23/24, yes! Though the colors aren't 100% accurate due to how lighting is set up in SketchUp. Please refer to my non-animated turnarounds instead!
Are these models available for download? At the moment, I'm not comfortable sharing my working files. Please don't pester me about this, as it'll likely discourage me from changing my mind in the future.
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remidiy · 7 months ago
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We Don't Gatekeep Art Resources | A Comprehensive List
Here's a list of some of the tools/sites I currently use or have used previously for works/studies. I'll separate it into Software/Utility, Reference, and 'Other' which will be just general things that could help you map out things for your experience with art. **[Free highlighted in pink, paid highlighted in green. Blue is variable/both. Prices Listed in USD]**
Software/Utility:
2D
Krita Painting app (PC) (my main digital art software on PC for 5+ yrs)
Clip Studio Paint [PC] [CSP 2.0+ allows for 3d modelling within the painting app and a lot of other cool features] [apparently allows up to 6 months free trial]
Procreate (12.99) [iPad/iPad Pro] (the GOAT)
Artstudio Pro [iPad/iPad Pro] (An alternative to Procreate if you enjoy the more traditional art app layout) -- I find this app handy when Procreate is lacking a feature I need, or vice versa. (you can easily transfer files between the two, but keep in mind Procreate's layer limit)
2D "Collaborative Painting/Drawing apps"
Magma Studio
Drawpile
Discord Whiteboard
Gartic Phone (Pretty decent for 2d animation practice, but has a hard limit on frames)
3D
Blender [3D Modelling, Sculpting + Layout] (PC)
Sculptris [PC] (it's an old unsupported version of Zbrush, but can help to get ideas out, and functions better than browser sculpting apps
Nomad Sculpt [iPad/iPad Pro] ($20) Works pretty well if you prefer a mobile setup, but it is a bit intense on the battery life and takes some getting used to
References + Study
Magic Poser [ PC and Mobile ] Has both free and paid versions, I've made do with just the lite version before
Artpose ($9.99) [Iphone + Steam]
Head Model Studio [IPhone] A 3D head, with both a basic blockout version for angles, and a paid version with more detail
Cubebrush [simply search "[keyword] pose reference pack"], they usually have good results + they frequently have sales!
Line of Action [Good for Gesture practice + daily sketching], also has other resources built in.
Quickposes Similar to Line of action, more geared toward anatomy
Drawabox | Perspective Fundamentals Improvement modules (Suggested by @taffingspy )
Sketchfab, this skull in particular is useful, but there is other models that can help you study anatomy as well.
Pinterest can be good, you just have to be careful, usually you're better off just finding reference pack if you have the money, sometimes certain creators have freebies as well
Artstation Marketplace can be decent [make sure to turn on the Aye-Eye filter so it doesn't feed you trash], a colleague of mine recommended this head model for practicing facial blocking, there is also this free version without lighting.
Local Art Museums [Unironically good for studying old "master work" if you're into that, or even just getting some inspiration]
Brushes + Other Useful software:
I personally have used both of these brush packs before making my own
(I actually don't know how to share my daily brush set because I frequently switch between Krita, Procreate, and ASP, but once I figure that out I'll be sure to do that lol)
Marc Brunet's Starter brush pack [Technically free but supporting him for this if you like it is ideal, there's some good brushes]
Dave Greco Brush Pack [$3]
Gumroad in general is a good place to find brushes and art resources. *Note; for Krita specifically, brush packs are a bit weird, so it may require you to find different packs, or import them in a particular way
PureRef [PC] - Reference Compiler/Moodboarding
VizRef ($3.99) [iPad] - Moodboarding/Reference Compiler
Artist Youtubers/Creators that helped me improve/guide me along as a self-taught artist from when I first started digital art to where I am today:
Proko
Marco Bucci
Sinix Design
Sycra
Hardy Fowler
Lighting Mentor
Winged Canvas
Moderndayjames
Swatches
Chommang_drawing
Marc Brunet (YTartschool)
+ Observing a lot of speedpaint art by people whose work I enjoy on social media/youtube, trying to dissect their processes
If you've gotten this far, first of all, congrats, you can read a lot, and second of all, thank you for reading and I hope this helps! I'll continue to come back and update this if I find any new resources in the future, or if my processes change :)
Much Love,
-Remidiy
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cryptic-forge · 3 months ago
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your dolls are stunning, so so beautiful. Do you have any advice for getting started making my own? I'm so inspired and want to try my hand at it someday
thank you!
i was in the "i want to make a bjd some day" swamp for maybe a year, but the leap from customizing monster high to sculpting from scratch seemed too big to get started. then i was staying over at my friend's for a few days, and we went to get supplies to spend the night crafting & watching tv. i saw a pack of fun-colored clay and went "i'm gonna make that bjd right now." and then i did. the next day, i made another out of a different clay. i had limited tools, and limited workspace, and both of the dolls were pretty rough since i made them in one night each, but it got me started. learning 3d modeling & making actually functioning joints & spending more than one evening on a design came later.
so what i think is important is letting go of the idea that your first doll is special. that it needs to either be meticulously planned & encapsulate all you want to be as a dollmaker, OR that it needs to be simple because people keep advising you to start small. it's a good idea to get a rudimentary understanding of how bjd joints work, either from handling dolls first hand or from pictures and diagrams, but your first doll doesn't have to pose well, or have the joints fit the sockets exactly, or be high quality in any other way. it can be, if you want, but the most important thing is to START. when you make one doll, it becomes so much easier to make another, and the best way to learn jointing is to feel the parts in your hands.
limiting your time and tools might help to get the ball rolling, like it did for me. my partner likes to put things in a calendar; if you're like that too, maybe reserve an evening next week, and make a note like "thursday: start on your first bjd."
....and if your question was not in fact about the creative side of things, and you were after more practical advice on what to do when you have the clay on the table in front of you/in your 3d program of choice, i'm always up for answering questions.
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hryniewiecki · 1 month ago
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Hi, this is how I made Jinx's chomper grenade, so (maybe) you could (hopefully) make one too (in case you'll ever want to)
With a lot of cardboard and some more paper!
I. GATHER REFERENCE PICTURES I used mostly fanmade 3D models and one or two screenshots from the actual show - that's why my chomper isn't exactly show accurate. I was trying not to go too hard on myself (for a change), so I didn't care about accuracy that much - do as you please.
For gathering refs I use Pinterest and Twitter accounts that share high quality screenshots (eg. this one).
II. PLAN OUT (the hardest part) Time to use refs to sketch the chomper - I started with a rough sketch to get familiar with the structure and all it's elements, to help me better understand how to build it. It was done keeping in mind estimated measurements I was going for (highly recommend using checkered paper), but keep in mind a 2D representation won't fully translate into 3D, so it wouldn't turn out the exact same.
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When I was done with the rough sketch, I made a second, cleaner one (in pencil), this time to measure things more exact. Then constructed the "target board" you can see above it. It's representing all the "layers" - the cylinders that once stuck on top of each other would make the grenade - so I know how to space them out. It's basically a top view of the grenade without it's jaws.
III. MATERIALS, TOOLS and how I work with paper (important) List of the most important stuff: - different types of paper* - wood glue and/or any good paper glue - paper masking tape (or any that can be easily removed) - acrylic paints - compass (the one for drawing circles) - hobby knife / exacto knife / box cutter - hot glue gun (optional, but makes things easier) - air dry clay (optional)
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*I used 4 types: - magazine paper (super thin, I used supermarket flyers) - cardboard packaging paper (from rice, cookies etc., rather thin but a lot more sturdy than regular paper, easily bendable) - super sturdy cardboard (still looks thin, but it's so hard it breaks easily when bend too hard) - corrugated cardboard (thick, but can be squished to be thinner; a pain to cut with scissors - recommend to use a knife)
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Tips for working with paper: - scratch the shiny, printed side of the cardboard packaging to make it easier to glue (you can also try to gently peel it off, but it's not always possible) - another gluing tip: use masking tape or clippers to hold elements together before the glue starts to work, otherwise you may have to hold them in your hands and wait forever - if the paper is thin enough, curl it up to fit before gluing it onto a rounded surface (I mean something like this, except I just press it against a table and not my finger; it can be done with any tool really - scissors, ruler, pencil, edge of the table etc.) - the magazine paper can be used like a sculpting medium (bent, twisted, crumpled into balls etc.) to fill any empty spaces and even things out - I used it to make a "beveled edge" on two of the cylindrical parts, that's why they're covered in colorful stripes
IV. CONSTRUCTION (best part) Time to build some cylinders (how exciting!). I started with the tall middle one. Do I have to explain it? Just remember to add the details (the "bars", aka two layers of cardboard packaging paper spaced evenly) to it before you glue all the parts together.
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For the thinner cylinders I simply glued circles of corrugated cardboard together, then covered the sides with a strip of cardboard packaging paper bent to shape. Depending on how tall the cylinder is, one can cut out two circles (top and bottom part), then sandwich (glue) some more scraps inbetween and cover the sides.
Now onto the two tricky parts: 1) Bottom I cut a ring out of the sturdiest cardboard I had and built an armature on top of it. It was then covered with magazine paper strips dipped in glue to create a half-sphere (basically paper mache). I filled it with even more crumpled paper to help hold the shape.
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To make those funky "bolts" I scruffed each of those parts a bit a the bottom by cutting about 5 mm into them, so the paper would bend inwards allowing it to better fit the uneven surface. Then glued on the caps (this is when I run out of patience, filled the "bolts" with hot glue, placed random scraps on top of each one and then cut them into shape ..whatever works).
When you have everything assembled and it doesn't look the best, you can use more magazine paper to try to fill any gaps. Even better if you have air dry clay (that's what I used to even the half-sphere a bit). It's great for smoothing out the transition between parts if mistakes were made. If you want to make it super smooth you can use sanding paper.
2) Chompers (most important) I planned out the jaws on checkered paper, constructing the shape by following the lines or making diagonals, so it would be easy to replicate and make adjustments (super easy to measure).
It was then traced and cut out of cardboard packaging paper. I connected each part using masking tape to shape it into a jaw and check if it fits the grenade - after some adjustments were made I glued everything in place.
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I wanted the jaws to be thick, so up to three additional layers of corrugated cardboard were cut out and glued on the inside of the initial "sculpt" - this allowed me to carve the eyes through the first layer.
V. PAINTING (suffering) general tips, because I'm not an expert - I used acrylics and started with painting everything black, then color and simple shading, then highlights (thin, bright lines on the edges), and paint splatters at the very end - the layering allowed me to later scratch some of the paint off to add more texture - follow your refs closely, you can even pic colors of off them (using a graphic software or any color picker online) to hint what to mix (eg. the jaws had a greenish/blue tint, so I mixed a bit of green paint with black and white)
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- more on that note: just try not to use only black and white (that's what I did on my first try, when I forgot how painting works) - on the final version even the bottom part (which may seem plain black) has a drop of red or brown added; the highlights are not purely white either - it takes a lot of time and requires angelic patience (took me 2 days); take a break if you get too angry or frustrated
And I think that's it!
It's my first time trying to explain stuff and I wasn't sure how much detail to include, so if anything's unclear or missing I'll update the post. Feel free to ask and point out stuff, I'll be happy to help!
Good luck have fun
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