#Frock coats

[hattedhedgehog]

Lounging around whimsically at @mimistitchcraft's hobbity birthday picnic (alongside @woodsmokeandwords and @francesca_vrc).

Photos by @grange_air on IG

[themancorialist]

Piccadilly, Manchester.

[phrynefishersfrocks]

The third outfit Phryne wears in "Murder & the Maiden" (Season 3, Episode 2) is a gorgeous blue and purple coat with a matching purple cloche accented with blue floral embroidery.

The star of this outfit is the beautiful chinoise coat made of black silk with midnight blue damask floral designs and purple silk trim on the pockets and her lapped sleeve cuffs. Her coat is lined with purple silk, and has a standing mandarin collar with a single hidden closure at the waist. Marion Boyce, the costume designer, added cut out elements from original 1920's silk embroidery, attaching two large blue flowers to the left shoulder, as well as one on her hat. She finishes off her look with a blue silk organza floral brooch pinned to her shoulder.

Her accompanying cloche is a matching purple felt with a tight molded brim and decorative swoop near Phryne's left cheek, along with one of the silk embroidered flower motifs also seen on her coat.

Underneath her coat, Miss Fisher wears her dark blue camisole with small scalloped trim on the straight neckline, along with her navy blue wide leg silk faille pants. She accessorizes with a bag made of the same fabric as her coat, long teardrop earrings, and a large purple amethyst and diamond ring.

Season 3, Episode 2 - "Murder & the Maiden"

Screencaps from here, costume exhibition photos from Laura Emily's Flickr, and Marion Boyce's website.

[fashionsfromhistory]

Ensemble

c.1815-1825

Palais Galliera

[daguerreotyping]

Fashion plate of a redingote (frock coat) design featuring big bold lapels and a slutty waistcoat window, La Mode, c. 1820s

[clove-pinks]

Fashion plate detail: Winter 1840.

The man on the extreme left wears a frock coat and top hat suitable for daywear while his companion is dressed in formal evening wear: tailcoat, white cravat, and Brandenberg coat worn over the shoulders like a cape. He carries a chapeau bras.

Historic Textile and Costume Collection, the University of Rhode Island.

[wizardpigeon]

Somehow with only 90s camera quality and spite I managed to track down an actual pattern for a 1830s frock coat that has the right silhouette for Uwe Krögers Der Tod

[capn-twitchery]

wait i've never drawn it closed so i never realised but twitch Does actually have the same kind of coat as the manager

their lapels are just buttoned weird--hang on i can't find a photo i'm gonna have to take a photo of my coat

same coat!!

[fruity-m0nster]

Hamilton musical posting #2

(yet again click the drawings for better quality)

[allysdelta]

Sometimes, being a demon has its perks. And Crowley's not above using one or two of them to impress his angel.

I was going to work on something else yesterday, but this comic idea popped into my mind and refused to loosen its hold until I'd drawn it. Ignore my slipshod historical research on the clothing, the joke was a bigger priority than the visuals and I needed a time period where candles were still in regular use.

[purplishly-prosaic]

Second simplified rendering Sanguinaria character practice with Jean~ 🦇🩵✨

[coindraws]

drew some more because I can

Sabrina belongs to @cheeseballs-sao 👀

[silverfoxstole]

It’s done!

After ten days of work (and another three for a waistcoat I’m not that happy with; see below), the NotD coat is finished! Woohoo!

Overall, I’m really pleased with it, which is just as well as it’s taken so much time (and grief!). I worked out that if I’d paid myself minimum wage for all the hours I put in the labour alone would amount to about £500. One of my ex colleagues used to suggest I set up a dressmaking business and wouldn’t believe me when I told her it wouldn’t be cost effective as the amount of labour involved would make everything too expensive.

Anyway, I have taken quite a lot of photos, so you can see how it turned out:

This got long so I’ll stick the rest behind a cut.

I ended up adding some extra fabric to the tails, as they were sticking out at an angle and didn’t look right. It means an extra seam but it’s not that visible and I much prefer it this way, with more fullness at the back (and it properly covers my bum, which is very important!):

Though it looks fine on the dummy when I put it on I’m not convinced I didn’t raise the back waist seam a bit too far, but it’s sitting on my waist so… *shrugs* I don’t often look at myself from behind so it probably doesn’t matter that much.

After sewing on the two back buttons I changed my mind and went with the covered ones in the end, deciding on reflection that those I bought last week were a bit too pale. They would have fitted better if I’d made the binding more of a contrast (which I’m glad I didn’t as it would have been more obvious that it’s not exactly perfect in some places). I had to make the buttonholes manually as there was no way the automatic buttonhole foot wouldn’t get caught at some point. I haven’t sewn any that way since I first started out six years ago and was using my mother’s old machine! All the ones I’ve owned have had an automatic function so I had to practice a bit to remind myself how to do it. Thankfully they’ve turned out well.

I also solved the problem of the gap between the collar and lapel by stitching them together. It works a treat!

Though I’ve made a miniature version for Eight Bear, this is the first time I’ve tried to replicate an existing garment for myself (the Dark Eyes coat was an interpretation rather than a direct copy), and I am actually really proud that I’ve ended up with something that does look pretty much like the original, as well as Steven Ricks’s recreation, which has been a definite influence!

That said, while the coat has turned out well I’m not massively pleased with the waistcoat. I decided to make another one on a whim as I had a more accurate pattern and saw what looked like an ideal fabric but I don’t like it all that much now it’s done. It was hell to put together because the satin just started disintegrating and still is; I’ve had to sew up holes in both the pockets because the seams have just frayed straight through and I’d put them together before I thought of stabilising the edges with interfacing. It’s another men’s pattern and I should have made some adjustments but after doing so much to the coat I really couldn’t be bothered and just put it together as it was; I should really have added some length, which is ironic given the amount I had to remove from the coat, and perhaps levelled it off at the front. Consequently it’s not a great fit and sits really awkwardly on Stella as you can see, though that may have something to do with the fact that I put the buttonholes on the wrong side out of habit:

There is a watch on the end of the chain this time, because the pockets are real! I quite like the look of the waistcoat undone when I put it on, but done up not so much. There’s a lot of spare fabric in the front for some reason, which I tried to hide by smoothing it under the collar and then stitching the collar down. It hasn’t entirely worked, and it doesn’t help that the brocade is such a bouncy fabric and doesn’t press well.

Putting it all together I do think it looks better on Stella than me, but that’s probably because I rarely wear so many layers! I wish I had a better backdrop than the bedroom but it’ll have to do:

Maybe I could unbutton the waistcoat and untuck the shirt and be Eight having a casual day? I love the coat but I do feel much more comfortable wearing it over a t-shirt and jeans!

Now I just have to wait until some cooler weather to be able to put it into use. My only gripe is that there are no external pockets, either on the original or the pattern I used! Surely you’d think the Doctor would need pockets?

[phrynefishersfrocks]

The first ensemble of "Murder and Mozzarella" (Season 3, Episode 3) features Phryne's classic car coat on top of her printed silk chiffon blouse and classic navy wide-leg pants.

Miss Fisher's usual travel outfit, she wears a flattering red and white silk chiffon blouse patterned with outlines of stacked gingko leaves. Cut in the same style as many of her other shirts, it has a v-shaped neckline and a long tie that loops around the neck and either fastens together or hangs loose at the front. Underneath is a white square-neck camisole with decorative scallop edging along the top.

She pairs this with her navy wide-leg pants and dark heels, as well as her linen hat and matching travel coat. Known as the "ode to detectives" by Marion Boyce, the costume designer, the linen coat is both practical and dramatic, suitable for weathering the elements while traveling or exploring. It has a line of brown and cream horn buttons to fasten the coat, and a wide collar with rounded points. This coat is the most reused item of clothing in the series, with twenty separate appearances across all three seasons (twice in 1x02, 1x03, 1x04, 1x06, 1x08, 1x09, twice in 1x13, 2x01, 2x04, 2x06, 2x07, 2x10, 2x12, here in 3x03, twice in 3x04 and twice in 3x08).

Phryne accessorizes with her linen bucket hat, often seen accompanying her coat (twice in 1x02, 1x04, 1x06, 1x08, 1x09, 1x13, 2x02, 2x03, 2x04, 2x06, 2x07, 2x10, 2x12, and here in 3x03 as well), and a pair of frosted white earrings with silver caps (bottom left of the costume exhibition photo). As suitable for an adventurous lady of the '20s, she also wears linen crocheted driving gloves with leather accents, and a large cream handbag.

Season 3, Episode 3 - "Murder and Mozzarella"

Screencaps from here, promotional photos from here and here, costume exhibition photo and hat photo from the official Pinterest.

[wri0thesley]

npc fontaine fashion stay winning

[whats-in-a-sentence]

"My first movement, Watson," said he, as he bustled into his frock-coat, "must, as I said, be in the direction of Blackheath."

"The Illustrated Sherlock Holmes Treasury" - Sir Arthur Conan Doyle