#costume breakdown

[nekohooch]

Otakon was amazing. Finally getting to wear my Azem summoning circle gown in person was so much fun. I had multiple people stopping me to gush over my costume and people from HERE telling me they saw it online and were so excited to see it in person. I haven’t been to a con since right before the pandemic and it was so nice to come back to a space I love so much. My goal of someone knowing what I was without me explaining was reached (thanks to the ffxiv photoshoot)! And I can’t wait to see the pictures of the group photo shoot. I added more details to the costume and (minus the stars which were my nemesis falling off the whole day) everything was perfect.

The gown itself took about 100 hours total. 85 originally and 15 to add finishing touches. The top is gold lamé and the chiffon overlay was ripping so I removed it. I have a whole costume breakdown under the tag for the original dress creation.

The necklace has an Azem summoning stone that my fantastic friends brought me from Fanfest which I repurposed. The most added details are the stars. I felt the black spots between the p design and the beams was a bit too big and wanted something to bridge the gap. I also considered adding my statics job symbols in the circles but they keep changing jobs XD

I added some more filigree details to the main Azem design in the front of the gown and individual rhinestones to each of the right angle v filigree and each of the small mirrored circles that make up the big circles because I’m extra along with a gold ribbon for the hem

Then I decided to add lights

Again because I’m extra

I don’t have skill with LEDs so I used individual 6ft fairy lights with tiny battery packs. I painted each battery pack black because the white shows through the skirt especially when lit up. There are about 75-90 battery packs I lost count at 2 am on Wednesday honestly ahaha. I looped them twice up and down so the effect would be less spaced out but I might edit that in the future if I figure LEDs and how to get more powerful ones because they weren’t really strong enough for 10 hours (you can faintly see them in the pictures above) and I kept turning them off when I sat. I used the same petticoat but added a hoop skirt because I was wearing tennis shoes (sadly sensible instead of fashionable) instead of my platform boots.

When people complimented me I would ask if they wanted to see my favorite part (which is spinning) and the laughs and gasps of delight were fantastic. Overall I’m so fucking proud of this costume. Thank you to all of you fab people from the FFXIV coordination who said such kind things I’m so flattered and lovingly overwhelmed. It was an amazing return to cosplay.

[phrynefishersfrocks]

The third outfit Phryne wears in "Murder & the Maiden" (Season 3, Episode 2) is a gorgeous blue and purple coat with a matching purple cloche accented with blue floral embroidery.

The star of this outfit is the beautiful chinoise coat made of black silk with midnight blue damask floral designs and purple silk trim on the pockets and her lapped sleeve cuffs. Her coat is lined with purple silk, and has a standing mandarin collar with a single hidden closure at the waist. Marion Boyce, the costume designer, added cut out elements from original 1920's silk embroidery, attaching two large blue flowers to the left shoulder, as well as one on her hat. She finishes off her look with a blue silk organza floral brooch pinned to her shoulder.

Her accompanying cloche is a matching purple felt with a tight molded brim and decorative swoop near Phryne's left cheek, along with one of the silk embroidered flower motifs also seen on her coat.

Underneath her coat, Miss Fisher wears her dark blue camisole with small scalloped trim on the straight neckline, along with her navy blue wide leg silk faille pants. She accessorizes with a bag made of the same fabric as her coat, long teardrop earrings, and a large purple amethyst and diamond ring.

Season 3, Episode 2 - "Murder & the Maiden"

Screencaps from here, costume exhibition photos from Laura Emily's Flickr, and Marion Boyce's website.

[brilliantpenguin]

Thirteenth Doctor's in Power of the Doctor || Costume Breakdown

Costume breakdown:

- Tenth Doctor’s Tie (Giorgio Armani)

- Seventh Doctor's Sweater (Lovarzi)

- Navy Plaid Pants

- Eleventh Doctor’s Boots (All Saints Layer Boots)

- Fifth Doctor’s Celery (Abbyshot)

- Twelfth Doctor’s Shirt (spearpoint shirt)

- Thirteenth Doctor’s Coat (Her Universe)

- Fourth Doctor's Scarf (Lovarzi?)

Notes:

Was bored so I did a breakdown of the Thirteenth Doctor's costume that Jodie (and Sacha) wore in the story 'Power of the Doctor'. Just something to note, majority of these items can no longer being sold from the original source.

Majority of the costume elements differed in colour from the costume pieces they reference. These range from the lighter coloured wool in the question mark vest and the scarf.

This can be attributed to being sourced from other places like Lovarzi. They sell the jumper in a strangely lighter shade compared to the original. But interestingly, in the instance where Lovarzi does have accurate colours, they used a different one (maybe to offset the lighter coloured vest?).

Something else to note is that the pants of the costume looks to be referencing different Doctors(?). You could say it was a reference to the Second Doctor or the Twelfth's but the larger rectangle pattern looks closer to the Seventh Doctor's. I'd just call it somewhat of a remix of them.

For the Twelfth Doctor's shirt, it's called a spearpoint shirt (Pointy collar). A version of this shirt can be found on an Etsy listing as "Men's Spearpoint and Tab Collar Brand White 1960s Shirt White Cotton" which is sold by "FashionPointIN". This one has the buttoned cuffs (which can be undone and unfolded which is shown in the costume), something to note is that the one in the listing also has a buttoned collar (which could be removed for costume accuracy sake).

Links that might be of interest:

Jodie Whittaker image: https://www.facebook.com/DoctorWho/photos/a.182096918471010/9031006413579972/?type=3

Eleventh Doctor's Boot information: http://www.11thdoctorcostume.com/2010/01/boots-all-saints.html

Second Doctor image: https://m.facebook.com/DoctorWho/photos/a.182096918471010/5210019052345413/?locale=zh_HK

Spearpoint Shirt: https://www.etsy.com/au/listing/1370648191/mens-spearpoint-and-tab-collar-brand?gpla=1&gao=1

Tenth Doctor's Tie information: https://thegingerdoctor.wordpress.com/2019/10/31/the-tennant-ties-full-index/

Twelfth Doctor from "The Doctor's Yo-Yo | The Girl Who Died | Series 9 | Doctor Who": https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-Yx7vlDlIVo&pp=ygUnbWFpc2V5IGNhbSB0aGUgZ2lybCB3aG8gZGllZCBkb2N0b3Igd2hv

[tigrensis]

POV: you over slept by a few thousand years on the family farm

[absolutedoorknob]

Pearl’s Red Dress— A Costume Breakdown

Pearl— the prequel to X, directed by Ti West. A story about a young (murderous) girl and her ambitions to leave the family farm to become…. A star! (The murder of at least three people sold separately, batteries not included)

Okay, I’ll confess: I haven’t seen the movie yet. I got about… 60% through of X before I realized that due to the rambunctious sex noises, it was probably a movie best suited for viewing when my family wasn’t home.. and I have not had the time to go back and watch X and then Pearl. I’m still trying to figure out a way to watch it with my sibling (whom I have made sit through eight saw movies, Jordan Peele’s Nope, Talk to Me, and Thanksgiving).

But I am armed with two of my greatest resources when it comes to costume breakdowns:

Pinterest

My eyesight (which is definitely 20/20 and I have never worn glasses in my life no I am not lying)

So, here it is: Pearl’s red dress: an analysis and some cosplay tips.

So: Pearl’s red dress is her mother’s dress, borrowed (stolen?) for her audition to become a star. The movie takes place in 1918, and because Pearl’s family is a little strapped for cash at the moment, plus along with her mother’s frugal tendencies, it’s safe to assume that the dress dates anywhere from 1910 onward, as I feel that it’s unlikely that a dress would be any older than that with zero remarks on it being out of style. This means that the dress is an ~Edwardian~ dress.

Now, my understanding of Edwardian fashion is loose at best, so take everything I say with like fifteen grains of salt. What marks the Edwardian era for me is two things:

Decrease in sleeve puff. We’ve moved away from Leg of Mutton sleeves and they will slowly grow more and more narrow in shape until the 20s, give or take, but we still have some gathers.

The smoothening of the front post-pidgeon breast period. A lot of Victorian bodices have very structured seaming and have a very “tailored” look compared with the relative softness of Edwardian bodices.

Compare and constrast Bernadette Banner’s Victorian waistcoat look (yes it’s a waistcoat my point still stands here) versus the 1910 Jolly Holiday Edwardian gown.

Now, based off of my very surface level research, Pearl’s dress seems closest to the style of the lingerie dress, which makes sense because a) this is clearly a nicer dress, and it makes sense to be a style that was generally “nicer” and b) the farm is in the South USA, so it also makes sense in context for this dress to be a lighter dress.

That leads us to another question, though. Why red? Well, the answer is simple. Red shows up on camera excellently, especially with the colour grading the movie used, and also… this is Pearl’s mom’s dress, and that woman is way too practical to have a white dress when they live on a farm.

So… what makes up Pearl’s dress?

Out of cursory examination, the bodice is made out of one front piece with possible darts for basic fitting underneath all that lace, and has two back pieces. It buttons in the back, and in the front there are fake buttons. The sleeves look bunchy here, but based off of the other images I’ve seen, they do end above the elbows with a cuff at least two inches wide.

I can’t see any seams on the skirt, but I’m guessing it’s made of at least three panels. From my cursory knowledge about Edwardian skirts, particularly lingerie skirts, they are quite ‘trumpet shaped’. This shape is partially achieved by a slight train, and a ruffle at the bottom. Pearl has a ruffle, but the train? Well…

The picture above seems like it has just the slightest train, but while she’s dancing on stage, she doesn’t seem to have it?

(Yes the above image is hot garbage. I’m working with Pinterest’s finest here)

Now, the lace! On the bodice is at least four types of lace. This is the best guess I have after looking at many many pictures and playing around with the settings to see if I could change the contrast. There is also lace above the sash and right above where the ruffle is sewn on.

So to make this dress, I started looking for patterns I searched high. I searched low. I searched the big four pattern website. Eventually I just googled Edwardian dress patterns. And then I found it. The perfect pattern.

The 1914 Afternoon Dress from Sense and Sensibility patterns. the bodice is basically perfect: back closures, a smooth front that can be adapted to wear with or without a corset. Now, from what the pictures show of the skirt, it’s smooth in the front and gathered in the back but the shape is not perfect when it comes to the trumpet shape, but the actual dress doesn’t have it. Personally, I would just flare the panels a bit more to get some more swoosh, and the ruffle would have to be added, but that would be simple because ruffles are basically just rectangles!

All that’s left to do is add enough lace to kill a horse, braid your hair, and definitely not chase your sister in law with an axe!

Happy sewing!

[thesquirrelqueer]

Be More Chill costume breakdowns

More Than Survive!Rich Goranski

4/?

[chrismcostumes]

Doctor Robotnik Mushroom Planet suit breakdown

Costume designed by Debra McGuire, Sonic the Hedgehog 2 (2022)

Breakdown by me

[t00thpasteface]

roommate took a stupid selfie and i photobombed it holding up my elvis themed cup. then i redrew it. and then i showed this redraw to my roommate and she said we should name each other Trapper and Hawkeye in our phones. but bc we sleep in the same room and spend all day at the same campus we really only text each other "are you out of class yet" "do you want to get lunch" "are you still in lab bc i want to get sandwiches" "i'm in the cafeteria where are you" "i'm omw to the caf is the food good today?" "no"

[komashkathesilly]

no one asked for it but i brought some very crunched mizunene

[femmedaraya]

My Talald Hieron cosplay won Best Journeyman at ACen, blew up over on VE twitter, and got into an Entertainment Weekly list all before I remembered to post it here…

oops.

[they-hermes]

the stunticons do not dress up for halloween they just straight up rob kids for candy.

[nekohooch]

I promised I would provide some detail costume breakdown of my Azem summoning circle. It took me about 85 hours total over 19 days. The skirt is overlayed over a red petticoat (because it’s the only one I had long enough) I made the skirt about 7 in longer than floor length for me because I’m wearing platform shoes!

The skirt is two layers of black chiffon. The bottom layer is a normal circle skirt, top layer is a seven panel circle skirt. Figuring out the math for this part was hellacious I do not recommend it. The top was gold lamé with black chiffon overlay. The waistband circles are gold upholstery bolts that I used bolt cutters to remove the stabby bits of and the beams from the waistband are from a fringey door cover that I dissected. I then twisted the beams (fringe) and fastened them to the skirt.

The Ps and the filigree things are from bathroom wall decals that I cut into pieces. Then I added rhinestones, these triangle book decorations, and sequins for the designs and the giant summoning circles.

The rest of the designs are various additional pieces of fringe, rhinestones, and hand painted designs with gold calligraphy ink. I almost added my statics job symbols into the summoning circles but I didn’t have time.

There’s still more I want to add to this but I’m ecstatic how it turned out and felt like an absolute goddess.

[phrynefishersfrocks]

The first stunning outfit of "Death Defying Feats" (Season 3, Episode 1) is a gorgeous draped navy blue sheer fabric with a silk underdress with a single dramatic sleeve attached with a jeweled bracelet, topped with a matching feathered headpiece.

Suitably sensational for the season three premiere, Phryne appears in a tabard made of French navy lace and dark beads creating floral and leaflike patterns. "The fabric in this tabard is simply stunning - it does all the work," Marion Boyce commented in an interview with the Guardian. A 'tabard' simply means a rectangular sleeveless piece of fabric covering only the front and back. The fabric connects on the side with beautiful diamond tabs. Underneath she wears a bias cut midnight blue slip with a straight neckline. An additional triangle of fabric attached to her wrist by a gem encrusted bracelet serves as both a sleeve and a cape as Phryne wafts through her scenes.

Miss Fisher complements her look with a headpiece made of a plume of dark feathers, as well as silk navy gloves and bejeweled blue t-strap heels. Her diamond earrings each have two angled lines holding a large gem between them. To finish it off, as she travels to the theater, Phryne dons a luxurious brown fur wrap with red silk lining to keep warm.

We see this ethereal gown not just in the first episode of season three as she's preparing for a night out with Jack, but also in a large series of promotional photos, worn instead with a curved jewelled hair slide with gems set on slender wires.

Screencap from here, promotional photos from the official Facebook (x, x, x, x) and various sources (x, x, x, x, x, x, x, x), exhibition photos from Dayna's Blog, Nikki Johnson's Flickr, and footprintsandfotos Flickr, behind the scenes photos from Pinterest (x, x).

[tigrensis]

Breaking Down Over Plants

I’ve been thinking about using plants in costume breakdown for a while. I know from gardening in the summer that plant roots can run deep and cause all sorts of havoc so I wanted to see what would happen to my costumes when plants were allowed to grow on the fabric.

My hope with this experiment is that I’ll see some interesting-looking damage to the costume piece that I am breaking down. Ideally, the roots will burrow down into the fabric, and as they grow and warp and change the fabric.

I am starting with a vest that I made for Stanpipe, It’s made of cream scuba suede and lined with a cotton plant print fabric taken from the remnants of a curtain. I really like how it turned out but it's way too clean and pristine for Stanpipe, even if the plants end up doing nothing I’ll still be doing a lot of ageing and distressing to get a rotten and decayed effect.

I have a whole packet of cress seeds and I’m going to apply them to the front of the vest and then if successful the back. I’m going to try my best to let the cress live out its full life cycle. I will care for the cress in the same way I would a regular cress plant and will be attempting to keep it growing for as long as possible. I’m going to see if I can make a time lapse of the growth as I go.

Day one was very boring, I dampened the vest and laid it out on a tray, then I spread the cress seeds out on the front. Cress is a quick grower so we should see germination in the next few days.

[brilliantpenguin]

Osgood Outfits

I got bored and did a non-exhaustive compilation of Osgood's appearances.

Osgood's appearances are notable for their references to various Doctors. This ranged from question mark shirts, bow ties and the colourful scarf.

This of course was accompanied by the lab coat, being UNIT's current scientific advisor. But this was sometimes swapped out for a brown jumper or the casual blue overalls (Big Finish).

For Osgood's comic appearances, the colours of they use for Osgood's outfits appear to swap around between the twins for the story Clara and the School of Death. But the twist on the Seventh Doctor's jumper was rather interesting as well (I speculate to save on time). Just something to note, for those particular panels, the one detailed in those panels refer to the left image.

There was also another outfit which was a hybrid between Osgood's usual lab coat and the Sixth Doctor's technicolor dream coat.

I kind of tried to get many of Osgood's appearances but because of the sheer number of Big Finish stories, I just presented a couple. What I found particularly interesting on this search, was when they gave Osgood the Third Doctor's green smoking jacket.

[thesquirrelqueer]

Be More Chill costume breakdowns

More Than Survive!Chloe Valentine

1/?