#the newsies and fashion

[make-friends-with-the-rats]

we interrupt your regularly scheduled program to talk about

Late 1890s Waistcoats

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Believe it or not, men's waistcoats actually have changed throughout the years, and the waistcoats that were worn in the late 1890s are really quite different from the modern waistcoat worn today. So, if you are ever planning on dressing up as a newsie, there are a few things to keep in mind that, while they may seem minor, can add more authenticity to any costume/cosplay.

There are three major details to pay attention to.

First, waistcoats in the 1890s were comparatively shorter than the waistcoats of today. They generally fell just an inch or two below the natural waist or the slimmest part of the torso. You would never or very rarely see a waistcoat extending to or below the hips.

Second, the arms eyes (arm holes) of the waistcoat were very tightly fitted. Modern waistcoats commonly have larger arms eyes to allow for greater size range.

You'll notice that the costumes of both versions of Newsies have done a very good job on these details:

Third, waistcoats for daywear in the 1890s were generally cut very high up at the neck. Necklines did dip lower depending on the purpose of the waistcoat, for example evening wear dipped very low to show off the starched shirt front beneath, but the newsies would not have had particularly low cut waistcoats.

In the 1992 movie, Pulitzer wears one of these evening wear waistcoats. Compare to Denton's below, which is much more typical of daywear:

Denton's waistcoat is also an example of the notched collar/lapel which was quite common in the late 19th century.

Waistcoats could have a variety of collars, or no collar at all. A very fashionable collar, particularly in 1899, was the peaked lapel or step roll collar, which looked like this:

Be careful with this one, as modern peaked lapels tend to take after the 1920s style which is a little more streamlined and should be avoided.

A third common collar type in the 1890s was the shawl collar:

Taking all this into consideration, it is actually quite easy to turn a modern waistcoat into a late 1890s waistcoat. In order to achieve a shorter length, tighter arms eyes, and a higher neckline, you can simply take up the shoulder seam of any waistcoat for a more historical look.

It's that easy! Not taking into account fabrics and patterns, your modern waistcoat is just one alteration away from being the waistcoat of a newsie in 1899!

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Image sources:

1896-1899, Plate 020 - Costume Institute Fashion Plates - Digital Collections from The Metropolitan Museum of Art Libraries (oclc.org)

1894-1899, Plate 029 - Costume Institute Fashion Plates - Digital Collections from The Metropolitan Museum of Art Libraries (oclc.org)

Full & Informal Evening Dress 1890s (gentlemansgazette.com)

Fashion Plate | V&A Explore The Collections (vam.ac.uk)

[secretly-a-catamount]

[walkman-cat]

i love turn of the century (19th-20th) womens' fashion and i love costume design! so heres my costume design for katherine plumber/pulitzer!! (feat. split cycling skirt and chatelaine. because i'm Normal about them)

i tried the best i could to stick as true to history as i could. there are some anachronisms though (both intentional and unintentional) so please forgive me!!

as usual, some more references and preliminary sketches under the cut:

[noxexistant]

i truly hate to be the one to Correct people having fun but i might go insane seeing all the posts insisting the costumes in the newsies votes video are fully undeniably canon 10/20-years-in-the-future designs for the newsies. they’re definitely not, and your least favourite fashion historian is here to explain!

the actors wearing the costumes may be older now, but they’re still definitely costumes of the children in the show, at the time of the show. katherine is still dressed in undeniably 1899 fashion, a floor-length petticoatted skirt and a striped blouse with puff sleeves and a stand-up collar, a corsetted silhouette, the picture of the era. crutchie is dressed distinctly like a child in the 1890s - he’s wearing knee pants, children's clothes, which he absolutely would not be wearing as an adult. (one reason i’m a little riled up about this is the implication that adult crutchie would still be dressing like a child, when this fandom has such a history of infantilising him).

they wouldn’t all be wearing newsies caps as adults. they’re holding a newsies rally! and the camera denton uses is near identical to the ones used in the show/movie, in 1899.

the suffragettes’ fashion (and history) skews a little later, notably the narrow skirts and shorter hemlines, but we’re definitely playing a little fast and loose with the timeline here because the suffs musical takes place in the 1910s. clearly, the video isn’t meant to have a strict timeline or canon considering all the conflicting details — most of the extras’ costumes aren’t historical at all!

it’s just an unofficial, for-fun bonus video, for a good cause. no canon designs, and definitely not canon adult designs.

[one-highfalutin-sonuva-gun]

Origins of Swifty's clothes

Ever noticed how Swifty's underwear is all shredded? (It wasn't because of Pie Eater). Swifty is based on Kelly the Rake and here is the reason why:

"Kelly the Rake," who owned but one sleeve to his jacket. In newsboy parlance a "rake" is a boy who will appropriate to his own use anything he can lay his hands on"

So essentially Swifty took someone else's old torn underwear and decided to make it his own.

For his outerwear, what's interesting about Swifty's vest is that it has a connection to his Chinese roots. Swifty's vest is unique amongst the Newsies. It looks like it's made from an oversized piece of fabric that's fastened at the collar and left side by pins/ clips/ ribbons or the like. In contrast to the other Newsies' vest which are form fitting, separated in the middle and have buttons.

Also, Swifty's hat is rather unique in that it's smaller and more snug that the regular Newsie caps. It doesn't have bagginess around the sides.

See how, even though Pie Eater's cap is smaller like Swifty's, there's extra bagginess in the front that's missing from Swifty's:

Here are examples of the type of clothing that some Chinese men would've worn around the 19th century when Newsies was taking place:

Swifty's vest looks near identical to the first pic. However, his vest lacks a collar and has extra slits on the front, back and sides. His hat is shaped like the second pic but with an added front brim. The other two hats have upturned brims around the hat. The costume designer might've combined the looks of both types of hats together in some way.

The brim of Swifty's hat is very pliable and can be curved back with his hand, which is how he prefers to wear it most of the time. Even though he likes wearing it back, the brim isn't very stable and drops back into the default position of curving forwards like regular Newsies caps when he's dancing.

The rest of his clothes are more Western styled from his suspenders and shirt down to his trousers and shoes. I guess going for a full Chinese ensemble would've been too distracting (and hard to dance in). It could also be a reference to the actor being half Caucasian. It's great that they still paid homage to his heritage through the vest and maybe hat.

[we-are-inevitable]

i have a lot of feelings about frat boy jack and weird queer davey by the way. so so many thoughts and feelings. thank u pidge.

[loving-jack-kelly]

jack and katherine dated for almost a year before breaking up extremely amicably and becoming the most chaotic besties ever. king and queen of yes anding, fully funded by a credit card stolen off of katherine's dad that she's told him would be homophobic to take back so he feels like he can't.

[crystaltreebee]

Tuts Newsie Kaths KONY outfit is a conflict in my head. Because I love the historical fashion aspects of Newsies so much (1890s are my favorite era of historical fashion) and I think they could’ve made it work a lot better. I adore Livesies Kath because you can see all the effort put into making it based on 1899, including her combinations (shift/chemisette).

Now I think tuts newsies outfit is fine, but let’s not use Kath wearing pants as an excuse to get rid of all the historical costuming please ! Kath in pants is NOT an inaccurate representation of 1899! It could be based off of cycling outfits!

I may be picky, because I really love historic costuming but I really hate seeing posts about wanting production where the women are wearing clothing that just wouldn’t exist in 1899! It would just take you straight out of the musical because Newsies isn’t like Hadestown or Six where it’s a retelling based in modern era (more or less).

anyways I digress, I just really like 1890s fashion..

[jilllovesmike]

The man that hates fashion.

[usssnarfblat]

Background Peeps: The Roaring Twenties

That last one is supposed to be in 1912, but I think the animators missed the memo.

Also, Georgia and that other gal switched colors.

[make-friends-with-the-rats]

The David Jacobs Costume Analysis. Or, if you don't like the 1992 costumes you are wrong and here is why (with pictures!)

We all know and love the change in David's costume in the 1992 movie Newsies. But this gradual change is more than just a loss of layers or a loosening of buttons. It offers a visual representation of David's character arc from the beginning of the movie to the end.

And historical dress/fashion plays a significant part in this achievement.

Let's begin at the beginning...

This is David when we meet him, and already without any historical context viewers can see a stark contrast between him and the newsies. His shirt is buttoned all the way to the top and fits him nicely, he's got a watch chain in his buttonhole, and this distinguished gentleman is even wearing a tie! But wait! Look to history! There's more!

Take a look at the vest David is wearing, specifically at the lapel shape. You may have noticed it before, because David's lapels (as far as I'm aware) are the only ones that have this particular shape among our main cast. This lapel type is called a peaked lapel (aka a pointed or step roll collar), and they just so happen to be the most popular or the most fashionable lapel style for men in 1899. They also have a reputation for being the most formal lapel cut. Additionally, if you take a closer look, the vest David is wearing when we meet him has a pattern that suggests that this vest is made from flannel. A very fashionable fabric for men's vests and trousers in the late 18th century. But why are these details of David's vest significant? Well, let me ask you this: did you know David wears two different vests? The right hand picture above is the last time we see David wearing his fancy, peaked lapel, flannel vest: during Seize the Day. For the rest of the movie when we see David in a vest, it's this one:

You'll notice that this vest has no lapel at all. This style is usually worn under a jacket as David does during the rally. It appears to be made from wool broadcloth or felt, a fabric generally seen worn by the upper class during this time period. Still, it is definitely less formal when worn without the accompanying jacket. But maybe I'm getting ahead of myself. The main take away from David's costume at the beginning of the movie from both a visual and a historical perspective, is that literally none of the newsboys we meet are better dressed than David Jacobs. Why is that? I would argue that David is dressed the way he is because he's trying to convey a collected, and perhaps even a mature front. He cares about how people perceive him, and wants to be taken seriously. But then, as the movie progresses, we see this carefully dressed boy disappear. By the time we get to David's apartment and meet his family, his vest has already been unbuttoned. And, gosh golly, what is this? He's loosened his tie!

As we get to know David better, as he becomes better acquainted and comfortable with Jack and the newsies, he literally begins to loosen up, shedding formalities and layers one by one. By Seize the Day Reprise, he's even lost his vest! Which is more significant than you may think.

Vests were very important in the 18th century. Even laborers and working men wore vests over their shirts. It was actually considered improper or inappropriate for a man to appear only in his shirt. But David doesn't seem to care. Maybe he reasons that his shirt being buttoned all the way to the top makes up for the scandalous lack of a vest. You'll notice that even without his vest, David stands out among the other newsies who have all unbuttoned their collars and/or the top buttoned of their undershirts. (Mush has even shed his shirt entirely.) Or maybe he doesn't care anymore? This is also the first time we can see David's shirt unobstructed, and therefore the first time another detail stands out. It's just an ordinary button up shirt right? Nope. It's actually a popover shirt. This type of shirt is buttoned only halfway down so that it is pulled over the head instead of slipped into from the sleeves. This was how any old shirt was constructed until 1871 when the modern button up (or 'coat shirt' as it was first called), was patented in London. By 1895, button ups were seen as standard. And while the button up gained popularity the popover become something closer to a t-shirt. It was less formal and less fitted.

So, underneath his fancy dandy vast, David is wearing a much more casual shirt. Even if he does still insist on top buttons for a little while longer, he is getting much more comfortable as time goes on. Literally and figuratively. David's second shirt is also a popover. Although it is possible that this one might simply be an old shirt of his father's, as it bears resemblance to earlier evening dress shirts of the 1860s.

By the end of the move, David has shed his tie, lost his vest, and has stopped caring about buttons and shirts. He no longer looks any different from Jack and the other newsies, he is no longer putting up a façade. Not because he's stopped wanting to be taken seriously, but because he doesn't need appearances anymore. The David on the above left is the David who wanted to be respected. The David on the above right is the David who used his voice to demand that respect. (And the David who handed Pulitzer his ass on a plate.)

One final comparison between the way David wears his newsboy hat at the beginning and then at the end of the movie. Because while it isn't particularly significant historically (there's no proper 1800s rule for how to wear a newsboy hat), it's clearly significant to David as a character. (His curls have been freed!)

In conclusion, with every item subtracted from David's wardrobe, we see him open up and loosen up. Newsies 1992 does an incredible job of using David's clothing and these little details to visually show his journey as a character. It's something hard to replicate in the stage musical, but something I think we can all appreciate in every iteration that cares enough to include it.

But of course, in my not so humble opinion, Newsies 1992 did it best.

Therein ends my analysis/rant.

I apologize if it is ill organized. In my defense, so is my brain. :D

[bigmack2go]

Update on my cosed project for medddaaaaaa

[walkman-cat]

so what if i redesigned my detective noir davey design

… slightly

notes and references below:

unlike kath, most of davey’s clothes were not obtained in 1926/1927 (davey’s of a different class so ofc he wouldn’t be able to afford the latest fashion)

he’s still somehow somewhat fashionable (ish)— he’s got wide cut trousers (indicative of the late 20s) and he wears a sweater vest (very popular, especially among young men)

his ima knitted the sweater vest for him (he’d bought one with pockets in and wore it until it literally fell apart, the one he wears was a birthday present)

sarah sewed the pockets onto the shirt he’s wearing (which i referenced from an advert from 1929, but we ignore my slight anachronisms) (she’s also sewed extra pockets into his coat)

the coat he’s wearing is a trench-style ulster coat (popularised in the early-mid 20s)— it was his father’s originally, and is not in the best shape. the lining is worn thin and patched over with some old shirts; there are patches on the elbows and a hole in one of the pockets; some of the seams have started to come undone; the lapels are worn thin from davey constantly rubbing them (stim!!)

it’s also slightly too big for him.

HOWEVER he loves his coat very very much, he likes the weight and texture of the fabric

he would be wearing suspenders over his shirt but i wanted to show the pockets and uh. forgot to draw them (oops)

he has so so many pockets to keep all the things

his shoes are boots!

his clothes are mostly hand-me-downs or were acquired secondhand, he hesitates to buy new clothes (why would he need new ones when he already has the ones he owns, unfamiliarity, texture, etc)

patches are corduroy (probably from some old trousers)

he does have a proper Suit for when he has to attend fancy events (usually because of kath)

[noxexistant]

newsies moodboards

katherine plumber

[the-crafty-goblin]

fashion camp

everything’s hand drafted/patternstolen from a preexisting garment and made from scratch

[perioddramapolls]

Period dramas dresses tournament: Pink dresses Round 1- Group B: Teresa Raffo, The innocent (pics set) vs Medda Larkin, Newsies