#mids 1880s

[fashion-from-the-past]

La Mode Artistique 1879

[sassmill]

Unpicking a suit lining at the sleeve head like. I’m undoing this hand sewn seam that someone made in 1935. I know the name of the man the suit was made for and the name of the man that tailored it and I can see proof of the human labor that made this. I can see the layers of wool roving and hair canvas used to interface the shoulders. I just worked with hair canvas for the first time recently on another garment, and this garment carries this same historical textile and practice. This wool and silk is nearly a century old and I’m mending it so it can continue to be worn and I’m directly interacting with human artistry and skill in the same way it was originally done on this garment. In another ten, twenty years, if this garment is still in use and I’m not the one mending it, they will be able to see the difference in the original construction and where I’ve worked on it. They might be able to tell how recently it’s been mended because of the fabric I’m using to patch. And then if they mend it, and add to the signature of stitches on this garment, somebody else down the line can look at it and see each of us there in the seams we’ve sewn. Every garment is a museum.

[foreverinthepagesofhistoryy]

Rare photo of Queen Olga of Greece (née Grand Duchess Olga Konstantinovna of Russia) with 5th child and 2nd daughter Princess Marie of Greece and Denmark (later Grand Duchess Maria Georgievna of Russia), mid 1880s

[k-i-l-l-e-r-b-e-e-6-9]

Stela N by Alfred Maudslay, Copan, Honduras 1885.

[chic-a-gigot]

La Mode illustrée, no. 17, 23 avril 1882, Paris. Toilettes de Mme Bréant-Castet, 6 r. Gluck. Collection of the Rijksmuseum, Netherlands

Description de toilettes (Bibliothèque Forney):

Toilette de visite en faille nuance vive de bordeaux et velours épingle rouge. La jupe, plissée perpendiculairement tout autour, est faite en faille. A 10 centimètres de distance du bord inférieur les plis sont arrêtés par une guirlande de feuillage en velours et perles d'or. Paniers et draperie de derrière en velours épinglé rouge. Corsage à pointe en même velours, avec guirlande de feuillage (pareille à celle du bord inférieur) posée sur le côté du corsage. Grand chapeau de paille doublé de faille vive de Bordeaux et garni de fleurs rouges.

Robe en rhadamès bleu-papier (de sucre). La jupe est plissée perpendiculairement à intervalles réguliers. Sur chaque pli une passementerie ajourée à pampilles en saillie. Dernière, draperie très-bouffante. Corsage Henri IV, à pointe, avec bourrelet bouillonné sur son bord inférieur. Au-dessus de ce bourrelet une bande de passementerie. Encolure demi-ouverte, bordée de passementerie. Manches demi-courtes un peu bouffantes, avec longs gants en peau de Suède. Chapeau de paille doublé de velours bleu-papier.

—

Visiting ensemble in a bright shade of burgundy and red hairpin velvet. The skirt, pleated perpendicularly all around, is made of faille. At 10 centimeters distance from the lower edge the folds are stopped by a garland of foliage in velvet and gold beads. Baskets and back drapery in red pinned velvet. Pointed bodice of self-velvet, with wreath of foliage (same as lower edge) set at side of bodice. Large straw hat lined with bright Bordeaux faille and trimmed with red flowers.

Paper-blue (sugar) rhadames dress. The skirt is pleated perpendicularly at regular intervals. On each fold an openwork trimming with projecting pendants. Last, very puffy drapery. Henri IV bodice, pointed, with bubbled padding on its lower edge. Above this bead a band of passementerie. Half-open neckline, lined with trimmings. Half-short, slightly puffy sleeves, with long suede gloves. Straw hat lined with paper-blue velvet.

[fitzrove]

! Stephanie's "What a night! What torments, what horror!" is often presented out of context and taken as a sign that something very bad happened on her wedding night.

But considering what she says around it, about Laxenburg being absolutely miserable and cold, with outdated furniture (on a previous page it says everything was from 1856 - imagine if you the reader got married right now and went on a honeymoon in an apartment not updated or renovated or w its furniture not replaced since 1999) and only an unpleasant (in her opinion) and distant chambermaid to assist her, no plumbing or proper bathroom, no friendly faces or anyone to talk to her about her anxieties... It's no wonder she felt horrible, especially after travelling multiple days for this and having such a lavish wedding. Like, she was expecting to be treated well, because the people adored her and her parents and everyone hyped it up that she was going to be set up as the future empress of Austria. And on the carriage ride to Laxenburg, she and Rudolf didn't talk at all, they just sat in silence for hours because they were stranges that didn't have anything to say to each other!! Wild dhfhfjj considering that they just got married...

So um yeah, my interpretation is that what happened between her and Rudolf in the intimate sense was super awkward and cold, but probably not violent or abusive (see: "the cold silence and the mutual embarrassment seemed broken" the next morning).

[resplendentoutfit]

Claude Monet (French, 1840-1926) • Camille or The Green Dress (Camille would later marry Monet) • 1866 • Kunsthalle Bremen, Bremen, Germany

Camille Doncieux is the model, later to become Monet's first wife and mother to two of his children.

The portrait is life-size – 231 × 151 cm (91 × 59 in)

Promenade dress • 1865/68 • English • Alpaca and silk fringe • Manchester City Galleries, Manchester UK

This dress is likely a very similar one to that worn by Camille.

In the mid 1800s, the crinoline was all the rage but one of my sources, Claude Monet: Camille states that she had not worn one. Perhaps she heeded the warnings about how dangerous crinoline hoop was! (Read my post about it here).

Though the portrait was well-received at the Emperial Salon in 1866, where it was first exhibited, there was a buzz in the French press regarding the dress and, to some extent, the model. Some felt it was too large for its wearer and its train exageratedly long. Indeed, one can scour fashion history books and internet sources and be hard-pressed to find a dress of similar style with such a long train. Notice that even the closest example to the painted dress itself had a much shorter train. Could it be that the lack of a crinoline, as the critics observed, made the dress sag enough to create a train that was longer than fashionably expected? My theory is that Monet could have painted it that way toward some creative endeavor, such as giving the portrait a sense of motion. After all, Camille isn't really posing but looks as if she's on her way somewhere.

Other critics speculated whether the dress could be hers, given how expensive it was. Some said that it had to have been borrowed or even rented, hence its poor fit.

This jacket is similar in style to Camille's though it is velvet and blue. The article linked above states that the future Madame Monet's jacket was seal skin and it appears, in the painting, to be black.

The hat Camille wears for the portrait is referred to in the linked article as a regency bonnet. In the detail of the painting, it's difficult to make out what is hat and what is hair and what the embellishments are. I looked at a lot of hats of the period online and my pick for best match is the hat below.

Velvet, silk flowers, and ribbon • 1880s

[dudeshusband]

the only birth anything i've given any character is a birth year (the other guys retain dean's birth year of 1917 in my mind). I suppose that dude was born in the 1840s...probably 1841-1842 or so depending on when in the 1880s rio bravo is

[eightfourone]

remembering that the original reason I turned away from newage stuff was because they basically just say a bunch of spiritual buzzwords. and this comes from a history of appropriating various spiritual practices into a new unified system that goes back to at least the 19th century

[lilyabsinthe]

Designing For The 80s - Part 2

In Part 1, we discussed design approaches for early 1880s fashion, with a dash of late 1870s thrown in. In contrast with the early 1870s, the emphasis was on the vertical rather than horizontal with minimal bustling and trains. Today we move forward into the mid-1880s when the bustle seemingly returned with a vengeance.

[themuseumlady]

so very obsessed with this

Day Dress

early 1890s

Canadian Museum of History

[vincentbriggs]

My uncle's friend asked if I wanted this machine that he has no use for, and yes I very much did want it, so now I have a beautiful crusty old friend to clean up!

I've never sewn on a White before, but from what I've read online they're very good. Quite a bit different from the Singers I'm used to though. The hand wheel moves in the opposite direction.

It was manufactured in the U.S. (more specifically - Cleveland, Ohio) sometime around the mid 1880s. I'm told it hasn't been used since about the 1970s, but that it used to belong to a woman who made her living by sewing on it for many years.

There's a lot of gunk and old dust to remove, and I need to shorten the drive belt and probably replace the rubber ring on the bobbin winder, but the moving parts are already spinning very smoothly and quietly so I'm hoping it won't be too much trouble.

[we-are-not-afraid-92]

Briefly interrupting my slew of I miss phantom content to say goddamn Erik and Aaron Covenant from Undying would be such a power couple

[k-i-l-l-e-r-b-e-e-6-9]

Vintage photos documenting the discovery of Maya ruins, 1880-1900

Stela D, dated AD 766. The figure depicted on the craving is that of K’ak’ Tiliw Chan Yopaat, ruler of Quirigua in the mid-eighth century.

[ichabodjane]

Okay but @marzipanandminutiae , is this an opera gown or a ball gown or a dinner gown or a reception gown or a....?

Evening Gown 1880′s

[nasa]

Six Answers to Questions You’re Too Embarrassed to Ask about the Hottest Year on Record

You may have seen the news that 2023 was the hottest year in NASA’s record, continuing a trend of warming global temperatures. But have you ever wondered what in the world that actually means and how we know?

We talked to some of our climate scientists to get clarity on what a temperature record is, what happened in 2023, and what we can expect to happen in the future… so you don’t have to!

1. Why was 2023 the warmest year on record?

The short answer: Human activities. The release of greenhouse gases like carbon dioxide and methane into the atmosphere trap more heat near Earth’s surface, raising global temperatures. This is responsible for the decades-long warming trend we’re living through.

But this year’s record wasn’t just because of human activities. The last few years, we’ve been experiencing the cooler phase of a natural pattern of Pacific Ocean temperatures called the El Niño Southern Oscillation (ENSO). This phase, known as La Niña, tends to cool temperatures slightly around the world. In mid-2023, we started to shift into the warmer phase, known as El Niño. The shift ENSO brought, combined with overall human-driven warming and other factors we’re continuing to study, pushed 2023 to a new record high temperature.

2. So will every year be a record now?

Almost certainly not. Although the overall trend in annual temperatures is warmer, there’s some year-to-year variation, like ENSO we mentioned above.

Think about Texas and Minnesota. On the whole, Texas is warmer than Minnesota. But some days, stormy weather could bring cooler temperatures to Texas while Minnesota is suffering through a local heat wave. On those days, the weather in Minnesota could be warmer than the weather in Texas. That doesn’t mean Minnesota is warmer than Texas overall; we’re just experiencing a little short-term variation.

Something similar happens with global annual temperatures. The globe will naturally shift back to La Niña in the next few years, bringing a slight cooling effect. Because of human carbon emissions, current La Niña years will be warmer than La Niña years were in the past, but they’ll likely still be cooler than current El Niño years.

3. What do we mean by “on record”?

Technically, NASA’s global temperature record starts in 1880. NASA didn’t exist back then, but temperature data were being collected by sailing ships, weather stations, and scientists in enough places around the world to reconstruct a global average temperature. We use those data and our modern techniques to calculate the average.

We start in 1880, because that’s when thermometers and other instruments became technologically advanced and widespread enough to reliably measure and calculate a global average. Today, we make those calculations based on millions of measurements taken from weather stations and Antarctic research stations on land, and ships and ocean buoys at sea. So, we can confidently say 2023 is the warmest year in the last century and a half.

However, we actually have a really good idea of what global climate looked like for tens of thousands of years before 1880, relying on other, indirect ways of measuring temperature. We can look at tree rings or cores drilled from ice sheets to reconstruct Earth’s more ancient climate. These measurements affirm that current warming on Earth is happening at an unprecedented speed.

4. Why does a space agency keep a record of Earth’s temperature?

It’s literally our job! When NASA was formed in 1958, our original charter called for “the expansion of human knowledge of phenomena in the atmosphere and space.” Our very first space missions uncovered surprises about Earth, and we’ve been using the vantage point of space to study our home planet ever since. Right now, we have a fleet of more than 20 spacecraft monitoring Earth and its systems.

Why we created our specific surface temperature record ��� known as GISTEMP – actually starts about 25 million miles away on the planet Venus. In the 1960s and 70s, researchers discovered that a thick atmosphere of clouds and carbon dioxide was responsible for Venus’ scorchingly hot temperatures.

Dr. James Hansen was a scientist at the Goddard Institute for Space Studies in New York, studying Venus. He realized that the greenhouse effect cooking Venus’ surface could happen on Earth, too, especially as human activities were pumping carbon dioxide into our atmosphere.

He started creating computer models to see what would happen to Earth’s climate as more carbon dioxide entered the atmosphere. As he did, he needed a way to check his models – a record of temperatures at Earth’s surface over time, to see if the planet was indeed warming along with increased atmospheric carbon. It was, and is, and NASA’s temperature record was born.

5. If last year was record hot, why wasn’t it very hot where I live?

The temperature record is a global average, so not everywhere on Earth experienced record heat. Local differences in weather patterns can influence individual locations to be hotter or colder than the globe overall, but when we average it out, 2023 was the hottest year.

Just because you didn’t feel record heat this year, doesn’t mean you didn’t experience the effects of a warming climate. 2023 saw a busy Atlantic hurricane season, low Arctic sea ice, raging wildfires in Canada, heat waves in the U.S. and Australia, and more.

And these effects don’t stay in one place. For example, unusually hot and intense fires in Canada sent smoke swirling across the entire North American continent, triggering some of the worst air quality in decades in many American cities. Melting ice at Earth’s poles drives rising sea levels on coasts thousands of miles away.

6. Speaking of which, why is the Arctic – one of the coldest places on Earth – red on this temperature map?

Our global temperature record doesn’t actually track absolute temperatures. Instead, we track temperature anomalies, which are basically just deviations from the norm. Our baseline is an average of the temperatures from 1951-1980, and we compare how much Earth’s temperature has changed since then. 

Why focus on anomalies, rather than absolutes? Let’s say you want to track if apples these days are generally larger, smaller, or the same size as they were 20 years ago. In other words, you want to track the change over time.

Apples grown in Florida are generally larger than apples grown in Alaska. Like, in real life, how Floridian temperatures are generally much higher than Alaskan temperatures. So how do you track the change in apple sizes from apples grown all over the world while still accounting for their different baseline weights? 

By focusing on the difference within each area rather than the absolute weights. So in our map, the Arctic isn’t red because it’s hotter than Bermuda. It’s red because it’s gotten relatively much warmer than Bermuda has in the same time frame.

Want to learn more about climate change? Dig into the data at climate.nasa.gov.

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