#how to care for a kalanchoe
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"The Dimitrov drainage rule" - A kalanchoe in a pot without drainage is like a bad decision - Tsvetan would never approve!
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Omg my son (a potted plant) left a huge mess (a bunch of soil) all over the shower floor after he took his bath (I watered him in the shower) he is so grounded (I am ever so slightly cross w him)
#chatterbun#he’s a#kalanchoe flapjack#and he’s giving me trouble :/#not sure if over or under watering#so I watered the heck out of him#and if he gets worse he will be repotted into bone dry soil lol#I do not know how to take care of plants too well#I’ve had some that do amazing for me and other than just don’t work#having like 2 minutes of sun is also a problem lol
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what a stunning before and after lol (august 8th-29th)
my moms mother of thousands(that was outside‚ potted) got bad root rot, so i snipped it to try and save it! it obviously worked- i swear this is the same plant LMAO look at all those plantlets!!!
#rams garden adventures#im so glad it lived#i think the main issue was that the pot it was in was too big‚ my sister and her husband take care of the outside plants-#- and they dont really know how to care for succulents. also its monsoon season so it mightve gotten too wet#i wasnt really a big MOT fan before i got frank(mine) and now they're so cool to me#kalanchoe daigremontiana#also fun fact: these things are incredibly invasive and poisonous#all of the plantlets root and fall off‚ can you see where im going with this. they're invasive as HELL#really cool though. i love them
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AITA for lying to customers for 3 years?
i (m19) work at a flower shop, and in the front we sell live plants (think peace lilies, dish gardens, kalanchoes, etc). often when customers come in and gets a live plant, they'll bring up how their last house plant they bought is dead/actively dying, and will ask me what they did wrong.
now here's the thing. i don't know how to take care of plants. every single one i've owned from spider plants, succulents, cacti, etc., have all died within a few weeks of me owning it. i think instead of a "green thumb" i have "numb thumb". i have no good advice for these people, so when they ask why their plant looks droopy or is withering, i'll say something that sounds like actual advice and basically lie to them.
for example, someone came in and asked why the bottom leaves of her house plant was dying (she's been watering it, giving it sunlight, etc). i told her she was probably over watering it, rung her up with the new plant, told her the care instructions are on the back of the cardette in the card pick, and sent her off.
i feel kinda bad for basically lying to these people, but i cannot be assed to look into how to take care of house plants for someone else. however, im pretty sure the customers would get mad at me if i was honest and just said "i dont know" or "google it dude". ive been working here for 3 years and for those 3 years i have been bullshitting anyone who comes in asking for houseplant advice.
What are these acronyms?
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i wanna introduce you guys to my plants,,, so
My Plants!!! [in pot height order, ignore the shotty editing]
Mr. Silly Goofy

this is Mr. Silly Goofy. He's the original, he started out as a small lil offshoot of another succulent, and now he's his own lil guy! [I refer to Mr. Silly Goofy using He/Him pronouns.]
He's been a bit busy producing a new leaf. I think he may be a Kalanchoe Dwarf Hybrid, since afaik he's similar to some Kalanchoe succulents, but he has his own distinct features.

The lil pink cup you see in the background is his old pot. I actually recently repotted him! Also, he has a lil bead. It wasn't in his original pot, but when I repotted my narcissus, one of the beads fell into the potting mix.

he also used to have a name tag! I mean, he still has it, but since the pink cup will be repurposed, i figured I might as well tape the ol' nametag to the bottom of his lil well-plate.
Jimmy Carter Hughes-Neutron

The Aloe Vera! His name is Jimmy "Jimney" Carter Hughes-Neutron. [naming like this will continue with my other plants.]
Amusingly, the Jimmy Carter name came from a friend BEFORE he died, so it's mostly unrelated to his death. I bought him for $5 from a plant sale. He's the only one I haven't repotted! [Also use He/him for 'em.]
The lil Q-Tip is because the day I bought him, I was hanging out with a friend, and we were doing art together. There were some q-tips lying in the open, and I was like: "...Lil sword."
So I grabbed the Q-tip and stuck it in his pot. It used to be at the edge of the pot, but I actually moved it inwards today to act as a sort-of stake, since the guy was leaning pretty severely [he was at a 45° angle, literally.]
He also has a new little sprout! [lil yellow thing.]
Narcissus :]

THE NARCISSUS!!! I've had him for such a long while and I've yet to give him a name! Quite a shame, honestly. I think he rather quite likes this pot! He has a few beads with him too from his old one so he didn't completely ditch his roots! :]
If you guys have any name suggestions, let me know! [I use he/him for the guy :3]
Drogas Queso Lacey Nerve-Plant


Last but [Certainly] not least, Mr. Drogas Queso Lacey Nerve-Plant!!!! Yes, he has like 2 first names that are in spanish [Drugs and Cheese], but who cares!!!! [If you've noticed, all my plants use he/him.]
This is actually him before & after I pruned him. Unfortunately, I forgot to water him for a bit, and he... well, you can see how much I trimmed.
He was actually the second plant I got! First was Mr. Silly Goofy! I got this lil guy at a local fair I performed at! [I also saw some live axolotls there, which was nice :3]
I'm hoping he'll bounce back, he's still a bit green at the bottom so he's not completely gone!
Anyways, despite my tactile botanophobia, I am taking care of them! They are thriving! [Well, except Drogas, but.... I'm trying.]
I keep 'em all near the window in my kitchen, which is curtained, but it faces roughly the south, so the sun rises there, and there's a decent amount of light that comes in during the day!
I also keep any animals away from them. I learned the hard way when my stepmom's dog, Stryder, knocked over Mr. Silly Goofy within like a week of having him [Mr. Silly Goofy]. Was not a good time, but he's doing alright now!
#plant posting#plants#succulent#aloe vera#narcissus#[the plant]#White Fittonia#aka#Nerve Plant#i love them so much#grahhh#they're so silly#have i mentioned i love them?#i love them#my stepmom gave me the pots for Mr. Silly Goofy and Jimney#i like her#Mr. Silly Goofy#Jimmy “Jimney” Carter Hughes-Neutron#Mentions of Jimmy Carter#Drogas Queso Lacey Nerve-Plant#IM SO SORRY MR. NERVE PLANT :[[[[[
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Seeds of Love — Oikawa Tooru / Reader
Pairing — Oikawa Tooru / Reader
Word count — 2,606
Content warning — none
Summary — You and Tooru’s teammates have a running gag that any plant named after someone in your life is cursed to suffer a terrible fate under your boyfriend's notorious black thumb. And, no matter how much you try to save them, your boyfriend always manages to transform them from thriving greens to shriveled-up twigs faster than you can say 'photosynthesis'.
“No way,” you state bluntly. “You’ll kill it. Again.”
As you hold the tiny pot that vaguely resembles Bulbasaur — albeit a bit misshapen and a completely wrong color, — you squint your eyes in concentration, trying to assess if it would match with any of the succulent cuttings scattered around the apartment. Out of the corner of your eye, you catch Tooru jutting out his lower lip like a sulky child. His doe-like eyes wander around, anxiously shifting between you and the fluffy plant he's clinging onto for dear life.
His voice takes on a high-pitched, pleading tone. “Pleaseee, I'll love it and care for it like it's my own child,” he whines, wrapping his arm around your shoulders and shoving the wooly plant in your face. The fuzzy oval-shaped leaves tickle your nose, and your face scrunches up as you try to hold back a sneeze.
You really want to say yes — the plant is certainly cute, adorable even. In fact, you're already envisioning the perfect spot for the Kalanchoe, nestled snugly on the shelves between the cotton-scented candles and the graduation photos from high school and university.
But deep down, you know that no matter how much Tooru insists he'll take care of the plant, it'll end up like all the others: drowned or parched, a mere shadow of its former self. You can almost hear the poor thing gasping for air, crying out for a drop of water or a ray of sunlight to save it from Tooru's notorious black thumb. You've lost count of the number of succulents and cacti that have met their untimely demise under his care.
(It's like he has a special talent for killing plants, despite his best intentions.)
Tooru pleads with you once more, "Please, this time I'll let you name him."
You give him a skeptical look. "Tooru, darling, I can't handle giving it a proper name and then watching you unintentionally murder it a month later. My heart just can't take it."
He lets out a pitiful sigh, slowly moving the fuzzy plant away from your face. You look back and see him holding it like a baby, cooing. His lean fingers are trailing gently along the oval-shaped leaves.
He looks so content, his eyes shining under the unforgiving fluorescent lights.
"Alright," you finally give in, avoiding his handsome, sun-kissed face. But you can see his expression lighting up with excitement from the corner of your eye. "But remember, I get to name it like you promised. No take backs."
The thing is, you adore giving your plant babies human names. The silly tradition began, along with your soul-crushing, debt-inducing plant addiction, when, for your four-year anniversary with Tooru, one of his Argentinian teammates gifted you a large Lacy Tree Philodendron that took over a third of the apartment's tiny hallway space.
But you knew your dear boyfriend had a talent for plant homicide. Back in your high school days, you'd find yourself helping his mother tend to their modest garden while he stayed inside, sulking when she would scold him for killing yet another perennial.
So, despite being grateful for the generous gift, you couldn't help but feel a bit uneasy about the fate of the plant under Tooru's care. After all, you still had the sad remains of an African Milk Tree cactus barely standing on the balcony, a victim of his infamous killer touch.
Somehow, against all odds, the philodendron managed to stay alive. A few months later, during a celebratory dinner with Tooru's closest teammates at the start of the league season, you found yourself a bit tipsy and brought up his plant-killing tendencies. You recounted the time when he had fallen on the Tree Philodendron, exhausted from training, and accidentally snapped off two three leaves, leaving the poor plant struggling to recover. Everyone at the table laughed, and Tooru defended himself, claiming that he had simply been giving the plant a haircut.
Carlos, the gift bearer, had laughed, explaining that, coincidentally, that was around the time he got a broken arm after an unfortunate skiing accident in the Andes, near Cerro Chapelco. After another full glass of plump and smoky Malbec wine later (all thanks to Leon and his vineyard), and more apparent coincidences, the precious Philodendron got its official name — Carlinhos.
From that point on, it became a sacred ritual and an inside joke between you and Tooru's teammates to name each new plant after someone in your life and eagerly wait for any coincidences between the plant and its namesake.
(Such as the unfortunate IKEA-bought Cascade Palm named Lola after Dolores, the evil fifth-floor neighbor who tended to throw her garbage out the window onto the street. A week and a half after Tooru had accidentally overwatered the palm, Dolores had to move out, never to be seen again.
Or the pink succulent cutting, lovingly nicknamed after Leon’s pinky finger. Both the succulent and Leon's pinky had suffered minor injuries, coincidentally, just days apart.)
"Come on, plant hoarder, let's bounce before you bankrupt us," Tooru teases, as you add the fuzzy succulent to the overflowing shopping basket filled with an eclectic mix of trinkets. Your boyfriend grins, his eyes crinkling in amusement, and your heart flutters at the sight.
Despite his notorious black thumb, he's just as enamored with the plants as you are. In fact, he's the one who constantly brings home new green babies, filling every nook and cranny with vibrant colors and sweet fragrances. You often catch him reading plant care books or watching videos on plant propagation, determined to learn more and improve his skills.
At the cash register, Tooru places the last plant on the conveyor belt and shoots you a wink, his lips stretched into a cheeky grin. His infectious energy never fails to lift the spirits of those around him, and even the two elderly ladies standing a few meters behind you can't resist commenting on how happy you two look together. They start gushing in rapid Spanish, and though you can't catch everything they're saying, you hear enough to know they're describing the two of you as a picture-perfect couple.
Your cheeks flush in embarrassment. Back in Japan, you were always the shy one, avoiding any public displays of affection, no matter how small. The old ladies in your neighborhood were always on the lookout for any potential gossip fodder, and anything from a simple kiss on the cheek to sneaking out at midnight for a game of volleyball would set off the gossip mill.
The cashier finally rings up the last item from your cart, and you start shoving the items inside your bags. Most of the trinkets fit snugly inside Tooru's backpack and the extra shopping bag you brought, except for the three large plants you ended up buying.
(Which you will proudly hug and carry to the car.)
Tooru effortlessly lifts the bags, and you both exit the store, elated by your successful shopping spree. As you walk towards the car, you steal glances at him, and your heart swells with affection. Even after all these years, it still feels surreal that he is your partner, your closest confidant, and the only one for you.
Inside the car, the larger plants are carefully secured in the backseat with seatbelts, but the tiny kalanchoe stays in your lap. Its velvety leaves tickle your fingers, and you can't resist the urge to caress them throughout the ride.
When the car rolls to a stop at a red light, Tooru glances at the furry plant and asks, "What should we name this little dude?"
“We’ll find out soon enough, when inspiration strikes me.” You stick your tongue out, and your boyfriend answers by softly flicking your forehead.
That evening, you and Tooru make a simple dinner and enjoy it with a couple of glasses of cheap store-bought wine. As the evening progresses and the alcohol takes effect, your playful mood only grows, and you can't wait to catch up with the rest of the Seijoh Four during your monthly meetup. Eager to see your friends, you log onto Discord earlier than planned and head over to Tahakiro's gaming server. To your surprise, he's already there, his camera on, displaying his strawberry blond hair and cheeky grin.
Tooru bursts into the channel and greets your pink-haired friend with a boisterous "Makki!"
You give him a playful jab as he turns on his laptop's camera and takes over the screen, giving a cheerful wave to your best friend. The three of you immediately launch into a lively gossip session about life, and within a few minutes, Hajime joins in the chat, his face a bit fuzzy due to his old camera.
As Iwaizumi’s pixelated face pops up on the screen, you can't help but tease him.
"Hey Iwa-chan, are you broadcasting from a potato?" Tooru jokes. Despite the poor video quality, you can clearly make out Iwaizumi's raised middle finger.
Moments later, the final member of your little Seijoh alumni group joins. Issei's tired-looking face appears on the screen, bathed in the neon glow of his gaming setup.
“What's the plan for this lovely morning slash evening? Are we gonna kick some butt in CS:GO or run for our lives in Dead by Daylight?" he asks, his voice slightly hoarse.
You pause for a moment, considering your options. "Hmm, I'm feeling a bit too exhausted for that. How about some peaceful farming in Stardew Valley?"
Takahiro is quick to agree, jumping in with a condition, "Stardew is fine, but only if we play the Wilderness map. And just to be clear, I am not sharing my resources with Tooru this time."
Your boyfriend bristles and pouts as he turns to face you, expecting you to side with him.
You interject, "Tooru, darling, let's be real here. Choosing Joja Mart over the Community Center is a rookie mistake."
"But I wanted the achievement!" he whines.
You and Tooru quickly load up the game on his laptop, creating your shared character and setting up the farm. You send out invites to the others, and they set off to work the moment they join. Issei takes charge of plowing the land, while Makki becomes the farming guru and heads to Pierre's shop for extra supplies. Meanwhile, Tooru, still pouting like a grumpy toddler, watches as you and Hajime break the rocks and chop down the trees.
You spend the majority of your playtime being a love-struck fool, showering your favorite character with gifts and compliments, much to the annoyance of your boyfriend. You can practically feel his eyes rolling every time you let out a high-pitched squeal after leveling up your friendship with your in-game partner. Whenever you switch, you’re stuck watching him gift your in-game partner with soggy newspaper pieces and driftwood. He ends up getting himself killed in the mines, and you're quick to fall behind on money.
“Yes,” you let out a squeal of excitement as you exit the cabin and a cutscene starts to play. You watch as your character receives a pet from Marnie. “Guys, guys, what should I name him?”
“Nomi.” Issei suggests, earning an eye roll from you.
“Issei, I am not naming him ‘flea’.”
“Cream puff.”
“Assikawa,” Hajime pipes, and Tooru gasps.
"Iwa-chan, why do you have to hurt me like this?" he exclaims dramatically, collapsing onto the couch with a hand over his heart.
You laugh and type in the name "Assikawa," ignoring your boyfriend's failed attempts at keyboard mashing. As the cutscene ends, Makki and Mattsun cheer and gather around the adorable creature, giving it as many pats as possible.
A while later, Makki reluctantly leaves the game, but stays in the voice call, and starts ranting about his mind-numbing recent job at a local konbini. Issei, unfazed by his friend's usual complaints, barely spares him a glance as he delves deeper into the mines, his pickaxe ready to strike at any glimmer of gold ore. But you're intrigued — you haven't gossiped with your friend in a while — and you’re curious to hear more about this job, despite knowing of his job-hopping tendencies.
“---the old hag keeps trying to give me double shifts, even though I’ve told her a million times I have another part-time job,” the strawberry blond continues his spiel. "She must hate me or something," he gripes. "I swear, I've worked more night shifts than there are days in the week!"
"What's her name?" you ask, a mischievous smile spreading across your face. Makki looks at you with confusion as you continue, "Tooru, what if we name our new plant baby after her?"
“No,” your boyfriend deadpans. You pout, making your best puppy eyes at him, but he doesn’t budge. You try to win him over by moving closer and giving him a quick peck on the lips, but it only earns you a chorus of exaggerated retching sounds from Maki and Issei.
You sulk. “Fine then. Our baby’s name will be Assikawa then.”
Tooru's eyes widen in disbelief. "You wouldn't dare," he says, a hint of panic creeping into his voice.
"Oh, I absolutely would."
Tooru looks at you for a moment, considering his options. “Not even if I kiss you like this?” He leans in, his lips brushing softly against yours.
More loud retches come from the laptop's speakers, and you and Tooru pull away, embarrassed.
"Uh, well, see you guys next week," you say, trying to conceal your mortification. "And good luck at work, Makki."
Hajime rolls his eyes, but there's a small smile on his face. Issei just laughs, clearly amused by the whole situation.
You do end up naming the innocent plant Assikawa. This leads to your boyfriend becoming overly protective of it, treating the innocent plant like a delicate newborn and fearing the wrath of the Plant Gods (and you, mainly you) if anything were to happen to it.
And it’s all fine for the first two-three weeks.
Each morning before heading to training, he would plant a gentle kiss on your forehead as you lay half-asleep in bed. After that, he would proceed with his typical morning routine, taking a quick shower before packing a light meal for you, followed by preparing his own nutritious breakfast and savoring a cup of black coffee. Just before leaving the apartment, he would give a tender pat to the fluffy plant, using it as a good luck charm.
That is until one morning, after a night of heavy drinking with some of his teammates, he staggers out of the bedroom, his head throbbing with pain. He makes his way towards the bathroom, his vision blurry and his mouth feeling like cotton. His lips are dry and chapped, and he stumbles, reaching out to grab something to steady himself.
You are abruptly awakened by a noise that isn't the birds chirping outside. You jolt awake, startled, heart rapidly beating. And when you leave the confines of your bedroom, your own head pounding, you're greeted by the sight of Tooru lying on the floor, shielding his face with his arms. The second-hand wooden shelf is barely holding up, one of its legs broken. Wet soil clumps are scattered on the soft carpet, and crumpled magazines are scattered around.
The fuzzy plant is barely visible, hidden under your boyfriend's large frame.
“Tooru!” you shout, rushing to his side and frantically checking for any injuries. “Tooru, are you alright?”
He groans in pain as you help him sit up and brush the dirt off him. “My butt hurts,” he complains, massaging his behind. “This is all your fault, Assikawa, for cursing me.”
Author's note: first time writing and posting a fanfic; i know there's absolutely no plot in here, but hey, i had to somehow indulge in my love for plants & writing xd
Thanks for reading 💚
#haikyuu#oikawa tooru#haikyuu x reader#haikyuu x you#haikyuu x y/n#hq x reader#oikawa x reader#oikawa x y/n#oikawa x you#reader insert#haikyuu imagine
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ANOTHA ! Cactus, fern, Kalanchoe, Magnolia, peony, ursinia, and yellow bell for Ryan/Carter??? 🤪
You're cheating now. You know how much I love my boys!
~
Cactus - Passionate Love
Carter throws himself into everything, Ryan knows that. Carter is an all-or-nothing kind of man. Ryan just didn't realize how much.
"Wow, you're really going for it, huh?" Ryan asks, leaning against the wall. Carter nods. "Well, be careful," the Titanium Rangers cautions. "Don't want you to hurt yourself."
Carter nods again, clapping his hands together and looking up. Ten minutes and a lot of effort later, he's sitting victoriously on top of the rock wall that he hasn't been able to best since he was put on Deactive Ranger status. He grins down at Ryan with brilliance and passion.
Ryan smirks back up at him. "Congratulations," he says.
Carter grabs the rope he's still connected to and whoops as he pushes off the wall and falls back down to the ground again.
~
Fern - Sincerity/Ursinia - Trickery
Carter looks up at Ryan with confusion. "Ryan?" he murmurs.
Ryan grins wickedly. "Don't you know a trick when you see one, pretty boy?" The demon assigned to watch Ryan curls a hand over his shoulder. It's so easy to fall back into that old persona. So simple to return to the lies and tricks, that it almost makes Ryan's head spin. He looks at Carter with eyes both soft and vicious and prays that Carter understands.
"Ryan, you don't have to do this," Carter pleads. There's a look of understanding in his eyes. This is a trick, the look says, a magic trick.
Ryan smiles again, this time more sincere. "Come with me, Carter," he says, offering his hand. "We'll do this together."
Carter doesn't hesitate, eyes full of flint and stone. He takes Ryan's hand, and Ryan grins again.
~
Kalanchoe - Persistence and Eternal Love
The worst part about it isn't the refusals. The worst part is that Carter knows why.
"Why would you tie your life to mine?" Ryan asks again and again. "I'm dangerous and will hurt you? Everything I touch has claw marks in it when I let go!"
"Why can't you understand," Carter returns, holding on to Ryan's wrist with steely eyes and a calm tone, "that I accept the risk of pain. I accept that you will hurt me. I accept the claw marks, because I love you."
Ryan snarls. "Love is for children."
"Love is for you," Carter retorts, stepping closer. "And mine is yours to have if you will only reach out and take it."
Ryan's eyes go wide, then tear-filled. "I don't want to hurt you," he whispers.
Carter smiles. "I know," he murmurs back. "But you're already hurting me by staying away."
Ryan reaches forward, grabs Carter by the collar, and drags him into a kiss.
~
Magnolia - Dignity
"I'll let you choose who dies," laughs the demon. "And please try to die with dignity."
Ryan doesn't let the demon get a step out of the room before he bolts forward and reaches out. His hands hit solid flesh, and Ryan shoves for all he's worth. The demon screams as it falls of the edge of the ground and into its own trap.
Carter gasps as the demon is torn to shreds, but Ryan has no regrets. He stands at the edge and watches the hellhounds rip the demon to pieces. "Try to die with dignity," he deadpans back, then turns away and checks on Carter. "You okay, baby?"
~
Peony - Anger
~
"Ryan, 'm fine!" Carter mumbles, laying exhausted and drugged to the gills in the hospital bed.
"You're not," Ryan refutes. "But it's okay. I'll stay here until you are."
"Y'r not mad?" Carter asks sluggishly.
Ryan leans over and kisses Carter's forehead. "Furious. But not with you."
Yellow Bell - Rebirth
Being in love with Carter is like finally being able to breathe after so long in toxicity. Being in love with Carter is like being able to lift the strongest rocks and not feel the repercussions afterward. It's waking up and knowing that day will be the best you've ever had. Carter is the sunshine to Ryan's moonlight, and Ryan has never been happy.
@estel-eruantien
Because being in love with Carter... being in love with Carter is like being reborn. The person Ryan was is gone, washed away with the water he'd risen from when he stole the Titanium Morpher.
Loving Carter is rebirth. And Ryan will never let that be taken away from him.
~
#power rangers#power rangers lightspeed rescue#ask#mutuals#estel eruantien#thanks estel!#writing prompt#flower prompts#ryan mitchell#carter grayson#carter grayson/ryan mitchell
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In the course of talking about my houseplants on here, I think I have mentioned my daughter's prolific paddle plant Thin Mint. Since Thin Mint has made yet another pup, I decided she deserved to go on this week's Houseplant Spotlight.

Thin Mint is the one on the back left. We got her, I guess about a year ago, in a little 4" pot. She started out living in my daughter's windowsill, which is very sunny, but not sunny enough for succulents. She started growing sideways a little, which I think it what got her in the habit of producing babies out of the exposed part of her stem. The other two plants in the picture are babies that I cut off and propagated into new plants. She made two others, as well, which my daughter gave to her teacher and to her best friend.
Paddle plants, or flapjack kalanchoe (Kalanchoe thyrsiflora), are nice and cute little plants that are easy to grow. They do need a lot of sun-- we eventually moved Thin Mint down to my plant rack with all the grow lights-- the daughter plants live there, too, and you can see how they've grown up much more symmetrically.
In case you can't spot it well enough in the picture above, here's the newest baby, growing under her armpit, there.

Propagating them is very easy. Once the pup is 1" or larger, just slice it off with a sharp knife. The cut end needs to scab off before you plant it. I leave it out on a paper towel in a sunny window for 24 hours or more. (I think this one went about 3 days, which is longer than I meant, but it was fine).

Then, just pop it in some moist soil! We have this special kitty pot for the babies. My daughter found it online and wanted to get it for me for Christmas. It turned out to be smaller than she expected, but it's just right for pups, and it's super cute. In a month or two, I'll transplant it to a bigger pot.

I do want to note that, unlike most of my plants, paddle plants are moderately toxic to cats and dogs (and people). It's more of the upset tummy level than instant death, like a lily, but it can be fatal if the animal consumes too much. It's rare for paddle plants to flower indoors, but the flowers of other kinds of kalanchoe are the most poisonous part. My dog doesn't care about plants, and my cat only likes to chew on things that are more grasslike (plus, she can't get onto the plant stand), but obviously it's always best to be careful when mixing pets and potentially dangerous plants.
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Why is my plant called a bad mother?
The hypothesis posits that traits typically associated with the notion of a "bad mother" are selected for when such a mother becomes the solution to her environment. For example becomes the easier one to reproduce with. In the metaphor of the "mala-madre" or "bad mother," the characteristics of the Kalanchoe daigremontiana plant serve as a proxy for maternal behaviors. The plant is notorious for its reproductive strategy—producing plantlets that detach and grow independently, a feature that is mirrored in the metaphorical equation for the "mala-madre." The problem that gets its name is that it’s rather easy, multiples and the the children are hyper independent. Let’s take only the true things that make this plant an awesome plant but also how it got a bad rep, see it physically is great at all this:
Breaking down the equation (Propagation x Soil Preference) Feeding / Light Requirements + Tolerance = mala-madre, we can analyze the components:
Propagation, magically the solution to eliding the plants adaptiveness to proproagation is to limit warmth. By Imposing Limits on Warmth when warmth is likely to be high, is self regulatory thing good mothers do by setting boundaries with their time, and duration together. This is also what makes it a bad mother if there is no limit. This suggests a mother's promotion of premature self-sufficiency in her children, similar to how the plantlets are detached to grow independently. But in the plant, its “plantings”, are extensions of her, herself with no roots but its own space to be. This lack of full autonomy between herself and her kids identities is what makes it get its reputation and renders its name.
Soil Preference is physical metaphysics if the act of (Precision). A bad mother was too careful. She has no really offsprings, as her “planets”, are just branches of her. This interesting result, frames what bad mothers do: to selective that it hurt humanity and ultimately herself. Precision, and this is common knowledge in analogy, but females are know to be the more “selective” sex and knowing the contextual understanding here when applying the analogy that “selection when stringent”, too precise would imply a rigid set of conditions that the mother imposes, possibly not accounting for a child's individuality. The result: children with no roots and no real independence. These are not really “planets”, they are branches.
Feeding, the metaphorical equivalent to feeding is receiving nurishment, in relational space that’s reciprocating a response. As communication is life. If no one communicates, no relationship. So Reciprocating Responsiveness, even non verbally grows the relationship, so when low, it indicates a mother's lack of responsiveness to her children's needs, akin to insufficient feeding. That’s what mothers who raise extensions of herself don’t do: have reciprocal responsiveness, there needs to be limits for that.
Light Requirement, the limited light that this plant needs makes it a really pleasing plant to have around for most people. But the ability for a woman to grow in the cold, excessively that is unnatural. This metaphorical is Unconditional Positive Regard then, and when minimal Unconditional Positive Regard happens, and it’s pointing to a predictable pattern what is known as scarcity of emotional nourishment, like a plant that needs little light to thrive. That deemed it necessary to call her a bad mom. Maybe, but what this means is bad mothers need excessive re-assurance. They certainly feel like bad mothers and that’s it, they only feel themselves.
Lastly, physical Tolerance, and its metaphysical equivalent here Sincerity. Authenticity, the vulnerability of two autonomous beings, mother and child, when it’s balanced with sincerity, suggests an enduring patience and genuine acceptance of various challenges. A bad mother, too tolerant, at the expense of being sincere. It’s the low mantaince that mala-madre that also earns its value, so low mantaince its neglectful in comparison to the needs of the average plant. It’s honestly, easy to take care of. This means all good mothers are rather challenging to love but not overly challenging, thus one can never be too tolerant, that’s just not sincere
The equation, thus, characterizes a "mala-madre" as one who hastens independence, imposes inflexible expectations, is unresponsive to needs, lacks in providing emotional support, and yet, paradoxically, exhibits a form of sincere tolerance. To transform the "mala-madre" into a figure more aligned with the nurturing "archaic mother," we must recalibrate the equation:
Propagation becomes Encouraging Supported Autonomy, fostering a balance between independence and support. But not hyper independence, as humans need each other and no offspring is considered human without its vulnerabilities, a child that is unafraid to make mistakes is adaptable. Thus, Soil Preference transforms into Adaptability, highlighting the need to tailor expectations to the child's individual needs. Feeding is reinterpreted as Attuned Nurturing, emphasizing the importance of meeting both the emotional and physical needs of children with sensitivity. Light Requirements are underscored as Emphasized Unconditional Positive Regard, affirming the necessity for consistent emotional support. Tolerance evolves into Sincere Engagement, emphasizing the importance of being present and authentically involved in the child's life.
Thus, the equation is re-envisioned to foster the positive growth of both mother and offspring:
(Encouraging Supported Autonomy x Adaptability) Attuned Nurturing / Emphasized Unconditional Positive Regard + Sincere Engagement = Supportive Archaic Mother
This reconceptualized equation encapsulates a holistic view of positive mothering traits that, when embraced, support the development of a nurturing, supportive, and emotionally intelligent environment, embodying th so e essence of the "archaic mother." She was chaotic but positive. An adventure, but never chaotic to uproot the identities of those around her. So, the archaic mother, is the reason humans survived. Without female
Participation, basically those children weren’t any of our parents. Human Survival and Female Participation is essential for survival and has historically been, and continues to be, deeply reliant on female participation. Women play a critical role in the perpetuation of our species, community organization, and the nurturing that is essential for the survival and development of the next generation. This participation is multifaceted and encompasses biological, cultural, social, and economic dimensions.
Biological Contribution
At the most fundamental level, the biological role of women in childbirth and breastfeeding is crucial for the continuation of the human race. The ability to conceive, bear, and nurse offspring is a uniquely female contribution to the survival of humans.
Cultural and Social Roles
Culturally and socially, women have traditionally been the primary caregivers, responsible for the emotional and physical well-being of children. This nurturing role is essential not only for the immediate survival of infants but also for the long-term development of healthy, functioning adults.
Economic Impact
Economically, women contribute significantly to the workforce, both in formal and informal sectors. Their participation in labor markets, agriculture, education, health, and other industries is vital for the growth and stability of societies.
Education and Knowledge Transfer
Women are often the primary educators in the early life of a child. The transfer of knowledge, cultural norms, and skills from mothers to children has been a key factor in the development of human societies.
Leadership and Governance
In governance and leadership, women's participation leads to more inclusive and representative decision-making processes. This can result in policies that promote the welfare and survival of broader segments of the population.
Community Building
Community building and social cohesion are also areas where women play a significant role. The maintenance of social networks and support systems often relies on the work of women within communities.
In summary, female participation is not just beneficial but essential to human survival. It spans from the very intimate act of childbearing to complex social structures and governance. The health, education, and economic well-being of societies are demonstrably improved when women are empowered and actively involved in all aspects of life.
But what have we here with this amazing plant that I feel proud of because it ain’t dead, yet?
Well, it’s just bad because it needs nobody that’s all. Thus it’s trauma, hyper independence in a woman makes her over controlling on her environment but a bad mother is easier to love: hints why it’s so evolutionary spread out, historically theres Evolutionary Success of "Mala-madre, meaning the archaic mother is success full at mating because of all her toxic qualities.
Here’s How:
The term "mala-madre" is a colloquial name for the plant *Kalanchoe daigremontiana*, which is known for its highly efficient reproductive strategy. The name, which translates to "bad mother," may seem counterintuitive when considering the plant's successful propagation. However, from an evolutionary standpoint, the plant is an exemplar of productivity and survival.
Reproductive Strategy
Mala-madre plants produce small plantlets along the edges of their leaves, which fall off and can grow independently without any further assistance from the parent plant. This mode of asexual reproduction, also known as vegetative propagation, means the plant can rapidly colonize an area. It’s a special type of selfish that ensures her living on genetically.
Self-Sufficiency of Offspring
The "bad mother" moniker comes from the fact that once the plantlets are produced, they are left to fend for themselves. However, this is not a disadvantage but rather a testament to the plant's evolutionary adaptability. She generated enough life, meaning she was at one time all our mothers,
.
High Survival Rate
In many environments, the chances of seedling survival are low due to predation, disease, or competition for resources. The mala-madre's strategy bypasses many of these obstacles by producing offspring that are already partially developed and thus more likely to survive than a seedling. While this is not a disadvantage but rather a testament to the plant's evolutionary adaptability. The plantlets are equipped with all they need to start growing on their own as soon as they land in a suitable environment. While quantity over quality sure sounds like a disaster not in certain situations where survival is sole importance. In these environments, the chances of seedling survival are low due to predation, disease, or competition for resources. So, all our mothers at one time, had to be like this. The mala-madre's strategy bypasses many of these obstacles by producing offspring that are already partially developed and thus more likely to survive than a seedling.
Rapid Spread
This reproductive mechanism allows for a rapid spread of the species, it’s how the human species evolved too, which can be advantageous in survival important environments where competition for space and resources is intense. Quality matters less, so the plant's ability to produce numerous offspring ensures that some will find suitable conditions to thrive, hence securing the species' survival. All the traumatized offsprings, well one or two survived and evolved, better. That’s the point. It’s why looking for love in all the wrong places, draws out the archaic father. Only the overly optimistic, but optimistic no less, seeds any chance for evolving past survival.
Low Parental Investment
From an evolutionary perspective, low parental investment with high offspring output can be a very successful strategy, especially in stable or resource-rich environments where the likelihood of offspring survival is high without parental intervention. When the survival of her children is low, she carries about the sustainment of her off spring’s life. A bad mother is also, an ensuring one who at the expense of her children’s autonomy ensures their continuity. This continuation is actually possible. Codependent parenting is better than no parenting said evolution. This bad parenting happened versus no parenting.
In conclusion, the "mala-madre" plant's reputation as a "bad mother" is misleading if interpreted through the lens of human parenting. In evolutionary terms, its reproductive strategy is highly successful and has allowed the plant to thrive in various environments. Its "hands-off" approach to offspring is not a sign of neglect but an effective adaptation that ensures the survival and proliferation of the species.
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Tagged by @zombinafonfrankenstein. Thank you, dear!
Are you named after anyone?
Nope. But they called me Claire because Saint Claire and Saint Francis were friends, and my father's name is Francis.
When was the last time you cried?
Two nights ago. I watched Coco... it hit a bit too close to home.
Do you have any kids?
Nope. Sometimes I think about adopting one, tho.
What sports do you play/have you played?
Nothing of great relevance, but I practiced karate when I was little.
Do you use sarcasm?
Yeah, but it's a skill I'm still refining.
What is the first thing you notice about people?
Their eyes. I'm really suspicious of people, but the eyes don't lie.
What's your eye color?
Light brown. I love standing in the sunlight because they look really beautiful under direct light.
Scary movies or happy endings?
Happy endings. Life is already scary as it is.
Any talents?
Hmmm... I can sort of "knot" my left hand's fingers and uhhhh idk I keep lots of secrets.
Where were you born?
The ultimate locus amenus, Caserta.
What are your hobbies?
Mainly writing, reading and listening to music, but lately I've taken a liking to gardening. I have this kalanchoe, it was as little as the palm of my hand and now it's beautiful and blooming and four times that size. Recently my mother also gifted me a little bush of daisies and taking care of them is so rewarding!
Do you have any pets?
At the moment no, unfortunately. But I've had many little critters in my life, and I want to adopt a cat when I'll have my own house.
How tall are you?
154 centimeters of italian-ness. I'm basically a hobbit, or maybe three gnomes in a raincoat.
Favourite subject in school?
English and Italian, but also history.
Dream job?
A writer! Or maybe an archivist, or maybe a librarian. I like quiet places.
Tagging @stardusteyes, @queenofnevermore @affogonellamarmellata and @dreamers-queen no pressure of course!
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How Do You Care for a Kalanchoe Plant: Pro Tips Unveiled - https://gardeninglayout.com/how-do-you-care-for-a-kalanchoe-plant/?wpwautoposter=1740042746...
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Tolmiea menziesii The first time I saw a piggyback plant, I was hiking Mount Hood in Oregon with a friend who lived in the region. I saw this cute herbaceous plant with a funky, tiny leaf growing out of its foliage. I asked my friend what the heck I was looking at, and he told me it was called youth-on-age. We link to vendors to help you find relevant products. If you buy from one of our links, we may earn a commission. Turns out, not only is piggyback plant, as it’s also known, a beloved native in my area, but it’s a valued ornamental in other regions with a similar climate. On top of that, it’s a popular houseplant in areas not blessed with the perfect Pacific Northwest climate (I might be biased). Whether you intend to grow piggyback plant in a hanging pot in your kitchen, an urn for your entry, or even in the garden, this guide will help you out. Here’s a look at what I’ll cover: Tolmei menziesii is an herbaceous evergreen in the Saxifragaceae family, native to the Pacific Northwest in the cool, moist climate west of the Cascade mountains in southern Alaska, Washington, Oregon, and northern California. If you live in Zones 6 to 9, you can grow it outside in shady, moist areas. Otherwise, it makes a delightful houseplant. When not in its reproductive stage during the summer, it looks a little like a small, herbaceous maple tree because the leaves have a similar shape to those of Acer species. But then the tiny plantlets form at the point where the stem meets the leaf and suddenly piggyback plant looks quite different from everything else. This plantlet will eventually fall off and root in the ground. Basically, the youngsters live on the mature plant, absorbing nutrients and moisture, until they’re ready to head off on their own. Quick Look Common name(s): Curiosity plant, pick-a-back, piggyback plant, youth-on-age Plant type: Herbaceous semi-evergreen perennial Hardiness (USDA Zone): 6-9 (outdoors) Native to: Pacific Northwest Bloom time / season: Spring, early summer Exposure: Partial sun, part shade, shade Soil type: Loose, loamy, well draining Soil pH: 5.0-7.0, slightly acidic to neutral Time to maturity: 1 year Mature size: 2 ft wide x 2 ft high Best uses: Woodland or pollinator garden, houseplant, ground cover Taxonomy Order: Saxifragales Family: Saxifragaceae Genus: Tolmiea Species: Menziesii T. menziesii has several common names that reflect its funky reproductive habit. It may be called curiosity plant, mother of thousands (not to be confused with the succulent, Kalanchoe daigremontiana), pick-a-back plant, youth-on-age, and piggyback plant. In addition to forming plantlets, this species can also reproduce via seeds and rhizomes. Photo by Brewbooks, Wikimedia Commons, via CC BY-SA. The seeds form inside fruit capsules on tall stalks following unusual chocolate brownish-purple flowers with yellow anthers. The stems are hairy and the leaves hairy, heart-shaped or palmate with toothy margins. There is another Tolmei species out there that is indistinguishable from piggyback plant, T. diplomenziesii. This second species only grows in Oregon and a small part of northern California. I mention it because you might occasionally see T. diplomenziesii listed for sale as piggyback plant. It’s essentially the same, and only botanists will know or care about the difference. Youth-on-age grows to about two feet tall and wide when mature, so it’s not too demanding about space, and it will stay even smaller indoors, where it works well in a hanging planter. Outdoors it will spread readily via plantlets, seeds, and rhizomes in moist areas, so it’s perfect for growing as a ground cover. When in bloom it will attract all the pollinators. How to Grow Piggyback plant is quite easy to cultivate provided you try and replicate its natural woodland habitat. Soil Piggyback plants love loose, loamy, rich soil, like what you would find on a moist forest floor, with lots of decomposing organic matter. Ideally, the soil should be well-draining, but this versatile species will tolerate both poorly draining and sandy soil. You’ll just need to be mindful about watering. A pH of between 5.0 and 7.0 is fine. If you’re cultivating in a container, I love FoxFarm’s Ocean Forest potting mix. I use it in my potted plants, raised beds, and to amend small areas of the garden. It’s made using earthworm castings, bat guano, forest humus, and sea meal. FoxFarm Ocean Forest You can find FoxFarm Ocean Forest in one and a half cubic feet bags available via Amazon. Light If you’re growing piggyback plant outdoors, choose a location in shade or dappled light. Photo by Kristine Lofgren. The plants will tolerate partial sun, but you’ll need to be meticulous with your watering. Indoors, bright, indirect light for most of the day is ideal. Humidity Many plants that grow in the Pacific Northwest need a good amount of humidity to survive, but piggyback plant is fine in the average home humidity. Don’t bother worrying about trying to increase the humidity unless you start to see crispy brown edges on the leaves. If that happens, you can group plants together or move yours into a bathroom or kitchen, where the humidity tends to be higher. Water In many parts of the Pacific Northwest, there is constant moisture from October through May, but it can be totally dry during the summer months. Piggyback plants have adapted to that kind of shifting moisture level. If you let the soil dry out a little in the summer, it will be totally fine. Make sure you keep it evenly moist from fall through spring, but short periods of drought shouldn’t be a problem. Ideally, the soil or potting medium should feel like a well-wrung-out sponge, not soggy and wet. Fertilizing Plants outdoors don’t need to be fed unless your soil is extremely depleted. Indoors, you should feed twice a year: once in spring and once in late summer. Whether indoors or out, use a fertilizer with an NPK ratio of 1-1-1 or 2-2-2. Cultivars to Select In the US, you’ll mostly find the species for sale at garden centers and nurseries, but cultivated varieties are becoming more common, especially in Europe and the UK. Here are a few to look out for: Cool Gold Talk about eye-catching, ‘Cool Gold’ has golden foliage and it forms dense clumps. Beyond the foliage color, it’s the same as the species in size and other characteristics. Taff’s Gold Tremendous ‘Taff’s Gold’ is variegated with bright yellow and green foliage. It grows a bit wider than the species but the same height. ‘Taff’s Gold.’ Photo by Noobnarwal, Wikimedia Commons, via CC BY-SA. The downside is that this cultivar is prone to reverting back to green, so prune off any totally green leaves that form to encourage the gold variegation to remain. Variegata ‘Variegata’ is a naturally-occurring variety that was found growing in the wild. It has creamy yellow splotches on green leaves. Otherwise, it’s just like the species. Maintenance Pruning isn’t necessary unless you see dead or dying leaves. Feel free to snip these off. Otherwise, you can prune leaves to create a shape that you like, but it’s not necessary. If yours flowers, which doesn’t always happen indoors, you can remove these at the base, as well. Photo by Kristine Lofgren. Over time, the original specimen will start to become a bit sparse. When this happens, cut it back to the ground and it will re-emerge from the soil with a more dense, compact growth. If your piggyback plant starts to spread where you don’t want it, you can dig it up. It won’t spread into dry or sunny areas, so don’t worry; it’s not prone to taking over an area. Propagation You can propagate piggyback plants from the tiny plantlets it produces, as well as from seeds or by division. From Seed If you have access to an existing plant, you have a ready-made seed source. Or, you can often buy them from companies that specialize in rare or native seeds. Photo by Kristine Lofgren. To harvest your own seeds, you’ll need to wait until late summer after it has flowered and the pods have developed. When the pods turn brown and some of them begin to open, it’s time to harvest. You can pluck the entire pod or rub it between your fingers to release the seeds. Collect them in a bowl or cup underneath as they fall. The seeds need to be cold-stratified for at least a month before sowing. To do this, fill a bag or sealable container with moist sand. Place the seeds in the sand and set the bag or container in the refrigerator. Set a reminder on your phone to check them every week to make sure the sand is evenly moist. After a minimum of one month, but preferably two, they can be sown in pots or trays indoors for transplanting after the last frost date has passed. Alternatively, you can sow the seeds directly in the ground outside in fall and let Mother Nature handle the stratification. Cover the seeds with a bit of soil and then lay chicken wire or some other mesh over the area to protect the seeds from cats, crows, squirrels, and other critters that love to dig in the soil. Divisions Piggyback plants spread via rhizomes and it’s easy to divide these to grow elsewhere. To do this, look for a specimen with multiple clumps of stems. Gently dig down around one of the clumps and lift it out of the ground. Photo by Kristine Lofgren. You might need to snip away some of the roots to fully separate the plant. Set the division in a new spot by digging a hole the same size as the roots. Place the division in the hole and fill in around the roots with fresh soil. Fill in the hole you left behind with soil. From Offsets or Leaf Cuttings Those offsets are what make youth-on-age unique, and you know you’re dying to try your hand at propagating them. Spoiler alert: it’s super easy. The little plantlets that form at the center of the mature leaves can be gently teased away and set it their own containers. Photo by Kristine Lofgren. Or, you can just remove the entire leaf with its piggyback and all. I prefer this method because there’s no risk that you’ll remove the plantlet too early. The offsets start showing up in the late summer and are usually gone by spring. Look for those that are about the size of a pencil eraser or larger on a healthy leaf. Use your fingers to gently tease it away from the parent. Otherwise, pull or cut a leaf with just a bit of petiole and an attached plantlet. Stick the petiole in potting medium with the bottom of the leaf just touching the surface of the medium. Moisten the soil and place the pot in an area with bright, indirect light. Photo by Kristine Lofgren. Keep the medium moist and while roots develop. Either the plantlet will leap off the leaf and start itself in the soil, or the leaf will send out roots. Maybe even both. Either way, keep the newly emerging specimen in its growing container until the following spring. Then you can transplant it outdoors or repot into a permanent container. Transplanting Most houseplant specialists will carry youth-on-age. Your job is to move it from the grower’s pot to a larger, more permanent container or into the ground outdoors. This will be one of the easiest jobs you’ve ever done. Prep the new container by putting a little potting medium in the base so that the crown sits at the same height it is in its existing container. Gently remove the specimen from the growing container and set it in the new pot. Fill in around it with more potting medium. Water, add a bit more potting medium if it settles, and you’re done! For planting in the garden, dig a hole the size of the growing container. Lower the root ball into the hole and fill in around with extra soil, if needed. Water, add more soil if it settles, and voila. Managing Pests and Disease For the most part, piggyback plants are pretty easygoing. Fungus gnats are annoying, but they aren’t the end of the world. They feed on dead material in the ground and sometimes on roots. Photo by Kristine Lofgren. Aphids and mealybugs might also make their way to your piggyback plant. Slugs will also chomp on the foliage. If you grow piggyback plants in heavy clay or other unsuitable soil, chances are high that you’ll end up facing root rot at some point. While this species loves moisture, it doesn’t thrive in poorly-draining soil. Too much standing moisture, whether from overwatering or poor soil, will deprive the roots of oxygen and cause rot. Root rot shows up as brown, dying leaves, and the piggyback plant will eventually collapse. Learn more about root rot here. Bring the Woodlands to Your Space Whether you want to fill a woodland-like space in your garden or you bring the temperate rainforest vibe into your home, piggyback plant is the perfect option. Even if you just want to enjoy the look of the unusual plantlets, you can’t go wrong. Photo by Kristine Lofgren. What are your goals with this plant? Looking to please the local pollinators? Or will it be the perfect houseplant for your space? Let us know in the comments section below! If you found this guide useful and you’re looking for a few more plants with interesting foliage, check out these guides: Photos by Kristine Lofgren © Ask the Experts, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. See our TOS for more details. Product photo via FoxFarm. 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Tolmiea menziesii The first time I saw a piggyback plant, I was hiking Mount Hood in Oregon with a friend who lived in the region. I saw this cute herbaceous plant with a funky, tiny leaf growing out of its foliage. I asked my friend what the heck I was looking at, and he told me it was called youth-on-age. We link to vendors to help you find relevant products. If you buy from one of our links, we may earn a commission. Turns out, not only is piggyback plant, as it’s also known, a beloved native in my area, but it’s a valued ornamental in other regions with a similar climate. On top of that, it’s a popular houseplant in areas not blessed with the perfect Pacific Northwest climate (I might be biased). Whether you intend to grow piggyback plant in a hanging pot in your kitchen, an urn for your entry, or even in the garden, this guide will help you out. Here’s a look at what I’ll cover: Tolmei menziesii is an herbaceous evergreen in the Saxifragaceae family, native to the Pacific Northwest in the cool, moist climate west of the Cascade mountains in southern Alaska, Washington, Oregon, and northern California. If you live in Zones 6 to 9, you can grow it outside in shady, moist areas. Otherwise, it makes a delightful houseplant. When not in its reproductive stage during the summer, it looks a little like a small, herbaceous maple tree because the leaves have a similar shape to those of Acer species. But then the tiny plantlets form at the point where the stem meets the leaf and suddenly piggyback plant looks quite different from everything else. This plantlet will eventually fall off and root in the ground. Basically, the youngsters live on the mature plant, absorbing nutrients and moisture, until they’re ready to head off on their own. Quick Look Common name(s): Curiosity plant, pick-a-back, piggyback plant, youth-on-age Plant type: Herbaceous semi-evergreen perennial Hardiness (USDA Zone): 6-9 (outdoors) Native to: Pacific Northwest Bloom time / season: Spring, early summer Exposure: Partial sun, part shade, shade Soil type: Loose, loamy, well draining Soil pH: 5.0-7.0, slightly acidic to neutral Time to maturity: 1 year Mature size: 2 ft wide x 2 ft high Best uses: Woodland or pollinator garden, houseplant, ground cover Taxonomy Order: Saxifragales Family: Saxifragaceae Genus: Tolmiea Species: Menziesii T. menziesii has several common names that reflect its funky reproductive habit. It may be called curiosity plant, mother of thousands (not to be confused with the succulent, Kalanchoe daigremontiana), pick-a-back plant, youth-on-age, and piggyback plant. In addition to forming plantlets, this species can also reproduce via seeds and rhizomes. Photo by Brewbooks, Wikimedia Commons, via CC BY-SA. The seeds form inside fruit capsules on tall stalks following unusual chocolate brownish-purple flowers with yellow anthers. The stems are hairy and the leaves hairy, heart-shaped or palmate with toothy margins. There is another Tolmei species out there that is indistinguishable from piggyback plant, T. diplomenziesii. This second species only grows in Oregon and a small part of northern California. I mention it because you might occasionally see T. diplomenziesii listed for sale as piggyback plant. It’s essentially the same, and only botanists will know or care about the difference. Youth-on-age grows to about two feet tall and wide when mature, so it’s not too demanding about space, and it will stay even smaller indoors, where it works well in a hanging planter. Outdoors it will spread readily via plantlets, seeds, and rhizomes in moist areas, so it’s perfect for growing as a ground cover. When in bloom it will attract all the pollinators. How to Grow Piggyback plant is quite easy to cultivate provided you try and replicate its natural woodland habitat. Soil Piggyback plants love loose, loamy, rich soil, like what you would find on a moist forest floor, with lots of decomposing organic matter. Ideally, the soil should be well-draining, but this versatile species will tolerate both poorly draining and sandy soil. You’ll just need to be mindful about watering. A pH of between 5.0 and 7.0 is fine. If you’re cultivating in a container, I love FoxFarm’s Ocean Forest potting mix. I use it in my potted plants, raised beds, and to amend small areas of the garden. It’s made using earthworm castings, bat guano, forest humus, and sea meal. FoxFarm Ocean Forest You can find FoxFarm Ocean Forest in one and a half cubic feet bags available via Amazon. Light If you’re growing piggyback plant outdoors, choose a location in shade or dappled light. Photo by Kristine Lofgren. The plants will tolerate partial sun, but you’ll need to be meticulous with your watering. Indoors, bright, indirect light for most of the day is ideal. Humidity Many plants that grow in the Pacific Northwest need a good amount of humidity to survive, but piggyback plant is fine in the average home humidity. Don’t bother worrying about trying to increase the humidity unless you start to see crispy brown edges on the leaves. If that happens, you can group plants together or move yours into a bathroom or kitchen, where the humidity tends to be higher. Water In many parts of the Pacific Northwest, there is constant moisture from October through May, but it can be totally dry during the summer months. Piggyback plants have adapted to that kind of shifting moisture level. If you let the soil dry out a little in the summer, it will be totally fine. Make sure you keep it evenly moist from fall through spring, but short periods of drought shouldn’t be a problem. Ideally, the soil or potting medium should feel like a well-wrung-out sponge, not soggy and wet. Fertilizing Plants outdoors don’t need to be fed unless your soil is extremely depleted. Indoors, you should feed twice a year: once in spring and once in late summer. Whether indoors or out, use a fertilizer with an NPK ratio of 1-1-1 or 2-2-2. Cultivars to Select In the US, you’ll mostly find the species for sale at garden centers and nurseries, but cultivated varieties are becoming more common, especially in Europe and the UK. Here are a few to look out for: Cool Gold Talk about eye-catching, ‘Cool Gold’ has golden foliage and it forms dense clumps. Beyond the foliage color, it’s the same as the species in size and other characteristics. Taff’s Gold Tremendous ‘Taff’s Gold’ is variegated with bright yellow and green foliage. It grows a bit wider than the species but the same height. ‘Taff’s Gold.’ Photo by Noobnarwal, Wikimedia Commons, via CC BY-SA. The downside is that this cultivar is prone to reverting back to green, so prune off any totally green leaves that form to encourage the gold variegation to remain. Variegata ‘Variegata’ is a naturally-occurring variety that was found growing in the wild. It has creamy yellow splotches on green leaves. Otherwise, it’s just like the species. Maintenance Pruning isn’t necessary unless you see dead or dying leaves. Feel free to snip these off. Otherwise, you can prune leaves to create a shape that you like, but it’s not necessary. If yours flowers, which doesn’t always happen indoors, you can remove these at the base, as well. Photo by Kristine Lofgren. Over time, the original specimen will start to become a bit sparse. When this happens, cut it back to the ground and it will re-emerge from the soil with a more dense, compact growth. If your piggyback plant starts to spread where you don’t want it, you can dig it up. It won’t spread into dry or sunny areas, so don’t worry; it’s not prone to taking over an area. Propagation You can propagate piggyback plants from the tiny plantlets it produces, as well as from seeds or by division. From Seed If you have access to an existing plant, you have a ready-made seed source. Or, you can often buy them from companies that specialize in rare or native seeds. Photo by Kristine Lofgren. To harvest your own seeds, you’ll need to wait until late summer after it has flowered and the pods have developed. When the pods turn brown and some of them begin to open, it’s time to harvest. You can pluck the entire pod or rub it between your fingers to release the seeds. Collect them in a bowl or cup underneath as they fall. The seeds need to be cold-stratified for at least a month before sowing. To do this, fill a bag or sealable container with moist sand. Place the seeds in the sand and set the bag or container in the refrigerator. Set a reminder on your phone to check them every week to make sure the sand is evenly moist. After a minimum of one month, but preferably two, they can be sown in pots or trays indoors for transplanting after the last frost date has passed. Alternatively, you can sow the seeds directly in the ground outside in fall and let Mother Nature handle the stratification. Cover the seeds with a bit of soil and then lay chicken wire or some other mesh over the area to protect the seeds from cats, crows, squirrels, and other critters that love to dig in the soil. Divisions Piggyback plants spread via rhizomes and it’s easy to divide these to grow elsewhere. To do this, look for a specimen with multiple clumps of stems. Gently dig down around one of the clumps and lift it out of the ground. Photo by Kristine Lofgren. You might need to snip away some of the roots to fully separate the plant. Set the division in a new spot by digging a hole the same size as the roots. Place the division in the hole and fill in around the roots with fresh soil. Fill in the hole you left behind with soil. From Offsets or Leaf Cuttings Those offsets are what make youth-on-age unique, and you know you’re dying to try your hand at propagating them. Spoiler alert: it’s super easy. The little plantlets that form at the center of the mature leaves can be gently teased away and set it their own containers. Photo by Kristine Lofgren. Or, you can just remove the entire leaf with its piggyback and all. I prefer this method because there’s no risk that you’ll remove the plantlet too early. The offsets start showing up in the late summer and are usually gone by spring. Look for those that are about the size of a pencil eraser or larger on a healthy leaf. Use your fingers to gently tease it away from the parent. Otherwise, pull or cut a leaf with just a bit of petiole and an attached plantlet. Stick the petiole in potting medium with the bottom of the leaf just touching the surface of the medium. Moisten the soil and place the pot in an area with bright, indirect light. Photo by Kristine Lofgren. Keep the medium moist and while roots develop. Either the plantlet will leap off the leaf and start itself in the soil, or the leaf will send out roots. Maybe even both. Either way, keep the newly emerging specimen in its growing container until the following spring. Then you can transplant it outdoors or repot into a permanent container. Transplanting Most houseplant specialists will carry youth-on-age. Your job is to move it from the grower’s pot to a larger, more permanent container or into the ground outdoors. This will be one of the easiest jobs you’ve ever done. Prep the new container by putting a little potting medium in the base so that the crown sits at the same height it is in its existing container. Gently remove the specimen from the growing container and set it in the new pot. Fill in around it with more potting medium. Water, add a bit more potting medium if it settles, and you’re done! For planting in the garden, dig a hole the size of the growing container. Lower the root ball into the hole and fill in around with extra soil, if needed. Water, add more soil if it settles, and voila. Managing Pests and Disease For the most part, piggyback plants are pretty easygoing. Fungus gnats are annoying, but they aren’t the end of the world. They feed on dead material in the ground and sometimes on roots. Photo by Kristine Lofgren. Aphids and mealybugs might also make their way to your piggyback plant. Slugs will also chomp on the foliage. If you grow piggyback plants in heavy clay or other unsuitable soil, chances are high that you’ll end up facing root rot at some point. While this species loves moisture, it doesn’t thrive in poorly-draining soil. Too much standing moisture, whether from overwatering or poor soil, will deprive the roots of oxygen and cause rot. Root rot shows up as brown, dying leaves, and the piggyback plant will eventually collapse. Learn more about root rot here. Bring the Woodlands to Your Space Whether you want to fill a woodland-like space in your garden or you bring the temperate rainforest vibe into your home, piggyback plant is the perfect option. Even if you just want to enjoy the look of the unusual plantlets, you can’t go wrong. Photo by Kristine Lofgren. What are your goals with this plant? Looking to please the local pollinators? Or will it be the perfect houseplant for your space? Let us know in the comments section below! If you found this guide useful and you’re looking for a few more plants with interesting foliage, check out these guides: Photos by Kristine Lofgren © Ask the Experts, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. See our TOS for more details. Product photo via FoxFarm. 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Tolmiea menziesii The first time I saw a piggyback plant, I was hiking Mount Hood in Oregon with a friend who lived in the region. I saw this cute herbaceous plant with a funky, tiny leaf growing out of its foliage. I asked my friend what the heck I was looking at, and he told me it was called youth-on-age. We link to vendors to help you find relevant products. If you buy from one of our links, we may earn a commission. Turns out, not only is piggyback plant, as it’s also known, a beloved native in my area, but it’s a valued ornamental in other regions with a similar climate. On top of that, it’s a popular houseplant in areas not blessed with the perfect Pacific Northwest climate (I might be biased). Whether you intend to grow piggyback plant in a hanging pot in your kitchen, an urn for your entry, or even in the garden, this guide will help you out. Here’s a look at what I’ll cover: Tolmei menziesii is an herbaceous evergreen in the Saxifragaceae family, native to the Pacific Northwest in the cool, moist climate west of the Cascade mountains in southern Alaska, Washington, Oregon, and northern California. If you live in Zones 6 to 9, you can grow it outside in shady, moist areas. Otherwise, it makes a delightful houseplant. When not in its reproductive stage during the summer, it looks a little like a small, herbaceous maple tree because the leaves have a similar shape to those of Acer species. But then the tiny plantlets form at the point where the stem meets the leaf and suddenly piggyback plant looks quite different from everything else. This plantlet will eventually fall off and root in the ground. Basically, the youngsters live on the mature plant, absorbing nutrients and moisture, until they’re ready to head off on their own. Quick Look Common name(s): Curiosity plant, pick-a-back, piggyback plant, youth-on-age Plant type: Herbaceous semi-evergreen perennial Hardiness (USDA Zone): 6-9 (outdoors) Native to: Pacific Northwest Bloom time / season: Spring, early summer Exposure: Partial sun, part shade, shade Soil type: Loose, loamy, well draining Soil pH: 5.0-7.0, slightly acidic to neutral Time to maturity: 1 year Mature size: 2 ft wide x 2 ft high Best uses: Woodland or pollinator garden, houseplant, ground cover Taxonomy Order: Saxifragales Family: Saxifragaceae Genus: Tolmiea Species: Menziesii T. menziesii has several common names that reflect its funky reproductive habit. It may be called curiosity plant, mother of thousands (not to be confused with the succulent, Kalanchoe daigremontiana), pick-a-back plant, youth-on-age, and piggyback plant. In addition to forming plantlets, this species can also reproduce via seeds and rhizomes. Photo by Brewbooks, Wikimedia Commons, via CC BY-SA. The seeds form inside fruit capsules on tall stalks following unusual chocolate brownish-purple flowers with yellow anthers. The stems are hairy and the leaves hairy, heart-shaped or palmate with toothy margins. There is another Tolmei species out there that is indistinguishable from piggyback plant, T. diplomenziesii. This second species only grows in Oregon and a small part of northern California. I mention it because you might occasionally see T. diplomenziesii listed for sale as piggyback plant. It’s essentially the same, and only botanists will know or care about the difference. Youth-on-age grows to about two feet tall and wide when mature, so it’s not too demanding about space, and it will stay even smaller indoors, where it works well in a hanging planter. Outdoors it will spread readily via plantlets, seeds, and rhizomes in moist areas, so it’s perfect for growing as a ground cover. When in bloom it will attract all the pollinators. How to Grow Piggyback plant is quite easy to cultivate provided you try and replicate its natural woodland habitat. Soil Piggyback plants love loose, loamy, rich soil, like what you would find on a moist forest floor, with lots of decomposing organic matter. Ideally, the soil should be well-draining, but this versatile species will tolerate both poorly draining and sandy soil. You’ll just need to be mindful about watering. A pH of between 5.0 and 7.0 is fine. If you’re cultivating in a container, I love FoxFarm’s Ocean Forest potting mix. I use it in my potted plants, raised beds, and to amend small areas of the garden. It’s made using earthworm castings, bat guano, forest humus, and sea meal. FoxFarm Ocean Forest You can find FoxFarm Ocean Forest in one and a half cubic feet bags available via Amazon. Light If you’re growing piggyback plant outdoors, choose a location in shade or dappled light. Photo by Kristine Lofgren. The plants will tolerate partial sun, but you’ll need to be meticulous with your watering. Indoors, bright, indirect light for most of the day is ideal. Humidity Many plants that grow in the Pacific Northwest need a good amount of humidity to survive, but piggyback plant is fine in the average home humidity. Don’t bother worrying about trying to increase the humidity unless you start to see crispy brown edges on the leaves. If that happens, you can group plants together or move yours into a bathroom or kitchen, where the humidity tends to be higher. Water In many parts of the Pacific Northwest, there is constant moisture from October through May, but it can be totally dry during the summer months. Piggyback plants have adapted to that kind of shifting moisture level. If you let the soil dry out a little in the summer, it will be totally fine. Make sure you keep it evenly moist from fall through spring, but short periods of drought shouldn’t be a problem. Ideally, the soil or potting medium should feel like a well-wrung-out sponge, not soggy and wet. Fertilizing Plants outdoors don’t need to be fed unless your soil is extremely depleted. Indoors, you should feed twice a year: once in spring and once in late summer. Whether indoors or out, use a fertilizer with an NPK ratio of 1-1-1 or 2-2-2. Cultivars to Select In the US, you’ll mostly find the species for sale at garden centers and nurseries, but cultivated varieties are becoming more common, especially in Europe and the UK. Here are a few to look out for: Cool Gold Talk about eye-catching, ‘Cool Gold’ has golden foliage and it forms dense clumps. Beyond the foliage color, it’s the same as the species in size and other characteristics. Taff’s Gold Tremendous ‘Taff’s Gold’ is variegated with bright yellow and green foliage. It grows a bit wider than the species but the same height. ‘Taff’s Gold.’ Photo by Noobnarwal, Wikimedia Commons, via CC BY-SA. The downside is that this cultivar is prone to reverting back to green, so prune off any totally green leaves that form to encourage the gold variegation to remain. Variegata ‘Variegata’ is a naturally-occurring variety that was found growing in the wild. It has creamy yellow splotches on green leaves. Otherwise, it’s just like the species. Maintenance Pruning isn’t necessary unless you see dead or dying leaves. Feel free to snip these off. Otherwise, you can prune leaves to create a shape that you like, but it’s not necessary. If yours flowers, which doesn’t always happen indoors, you can remove these at the base, as well. Photo by Kristine Lofgren. Over time, the original specimen will start to become a bit sparse. When this happens, cut it back to the ground and it will re-emerge from the soil with a more dense, compact growth. If your piggyback plant starts to spread where you don’t want it, you can dig it up. It won’t spread into dry or sunny areas, so don’t worry; it’s not prone to taking over an area. Propagation You can propagate piggyback plants from the tiny plantlets it produces, as well as from seeds or by division. From Seed If you have access to an existing plant, you have a ready-made seed source. Or, you can often buy them from companies that specialize in rare or native seeds. Photo by Kristine Lofgren. To harvest your own seeds, you’ll need to wait until late summer after it has flowered and the pods have developed. When the pods turn brown and some of them begin to open, it’s time to harvest. You can pluck the entire pod or rub it between your fingers to release the seeds. Collect them in a bowl or cup underneath as they fall. The seeds need to be cold-stratified for at least a month before sowing. To do this, fill a bag or sealable container with moist sand. Place the seeds in the sand and set the bag or container in the refrigerator. Set a reminder on your phone to check them every week to make sure the sand is evenly moist. After a minimum of one month, but preferably two, they can be sown in pots or trays indoors for transplanting after the last frost date has passed. Alternatively, you can sow the seeds directly in the ground outside in fall and let Mother Nature handle the stratification. Cover the seeds with a bit of soil and then lay chicken wire or some other mesh over the area to protect the seeds from cats, crows, squirrels, and other critters that love to dig in the soil. Divisions Piggyback plants spread via rhizomes and it’s easy to divide these to grow elsewhere. To do this, look for a specimen with multiple clumps of stems. Gently dig down around one of the clumps and lift it out of the ground. Photo by Kristine Lofgren. You might need to snip away some of the roots to fully separate the plant. Set the division in a new spot by digging a hole the same size as the roots. Place the division in the hole and fill in around the roots with fresh soil. Fill in the hole you left behind with soil. From Offsets or Leaf Cuttings Those offsets are what make youth-on-age unique, and you know you’re dying to try your hand at propagating them. Spoiler alert: it’s super easy. The little plantlets that form at the center of the mature leaves can be gently teased away and set it their own containers. Photo by Kristine Lofgren. Or, you can just remove the entire leaf with its piggyback and all. I prefer this method because there’s no risk that you’ll remove the plantlet too early. The offsets start showing up in the late summer and are usually gone by spring. Look for those that are about the size of a pencil eraser or larger on a healthy leaf. Use your fingers to gently tease it away from the parent. Otherwise, pull or cut a leaf with just a bit of petiole and an attached plantlet. Stick the petiole in potting medium with the bottom of the leaf just touching the surface of the medium. Moisten the soil and place the pot in an area with bright, indirect light. Photo by Kristine Lofgren. Keep the medium moist and while roots develop. Either the plantlet will leap off the leaf and start itself in the soil, or the leaf will send out roots. Maybe even both. Either way, keep the newly emerging specimen in its growing container until the following spring. Then you can transplant it outdoors or repot into a permanent container. Transplanting Most houseplant specialists will carry youth-on-age. Your job is to move it from the grower’s pot to a larger, more permanent container or into the ground outdoors. This will be one of the easiest jobs you’ve ever done. Prep the new container by putting a little potting medium in the base so that the crown sits at the same height it is in its existing container. Gently remove the specimen from the growing container and set it in the new pot. Fill in around it with more potting medium. Water, add a bit more potting medium if it settles, and you’re done! For planting in the garden, dig a hole the size of the growing container. Lower the root ball into the hole and fill in around with extra soil, if needed. Water, add more soil if it settles, and voila. Managing Pests and Disease For the most part, piggyback plants are pretty easygoing. Fungus gnats are annoying, but they aren’t the end of the world. They feed on dead material in the ground and sometimes on roots. Photo by Kristine Lofgren. Aphids and mealybugs might also make their way to your piggyback plant. Slugs will also chomp on the foliage. If you grow piggyback plants in heavy clay or other unsuitable soil, chances are high that you’ll end up facing root rot at some point. While this species loves moisture, it doesn’t thrive in poorly-draining soil. Too much standing moisture, whether from overwatering or poor soil, will deprive the roots of oxygen and cause rot. Root rot shows up as brown, dying leaves, and the piggyback plant will eventually collapse. Learn more about root rot here. Bring the Woodlands to Your Space Whether you want to fill a woodland-like space in your garden or you bring the temperate rainforest vibe into your home, piggyback plant is the perfect option. Even if you just want to enjoy the look of the unusual plantlets, you can’t go wrong. Photo by Kristine Lofgren. What are your goals with this plant? Looking to please the local pollinators? Or will it be the perfect houseplant for your space? Let us know in the comments section below! If you found this guide useful and you’re looking for a few more plants with interesting foliage, check out these guides: Photos by Kristine Lofgren © Ask the Experts, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. See our TOS for more details. Product photo via FoxFarm. 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Tolmiea menziesii The first time I saw a piggyback plant, I was hiking Mount Hood in Oregon with a friend who lived in the region. I saw this cute herbaceous plant with a funky, tiny leaf growing out of its foliage. I asked my friend what the heck I was looking at, and he told me it was called youth-on-age. We link to vendors to help you find relevant products. If you buy from one of our links, we may earn a commission. Turns out, not only is piggyback plant, as it’s also known, a beloved native in my area, but it’s a valued ornamental in other regions with a similar climate. On top of that, it’s a popular houseplant in areas not blessed with the perfect Pacific Northwest climate (I might be biased). Whether you intend to grow piggyback plant in a hanging pot in your kitchen, an urn for your entry, or even in the garden, this guide will help you out. Here’s a look at what I’ll cover: Tolmei menziesii is an herbaceous evergreen in the Saxifragaceae family, native to the Pacific Northwest in the cool, moist climate west of the Cascade mountains in southern Alaska, Washington, Oregon, and northern California. If you live in Zones 6 to 9, you can grow it outside in shady, moist areas. Otherwise, it makes a delightful houseplant. When not in its reproductive stage during the summer, it looks a little like a small, herbaceous maple tree because the leaves have a similar shape to those of Acer species. But then the tiny plantlets form at the point where the stem meets the leaf and suddenly piggyback plant looks quite different from everything else. This plantlet will eventually fall off and root in the ground. Basically, the youngsters live on the mature plant, absorbing nutrients and moisture, until they’re ready to head off on their own. Quick Look Common name(s): Curiosity plant, pick-a-back, piggyback plant, youth-on-age Plant type: Herbaceous semi-evergreen perennial Hardiness (USDA Zone): 6-9 (outdoors) Native to: Pacific Northwest Bloom time / season: Spring, early summer Exposure: Partial sun, part shade, shade Soil type: Loose, loamy, well draining Soil pH: 5.0-7.0, slightly acidic to neutral Time to maturity: 1 year Mature size: 2 ft wide x 2 ft high Best uses: Woodland or pollinator garden, houseplant, ground cover Taxonomy Order: Saxifragales Family: Saxifragaceae Genus: Tolmiea Species: Menziesii T. menziesii has several common names that reflect its funky reproductive habit. It may be called curiosity plant, mother of thousands (not to be confused with the succulent, Kalanchoe daigremontiana), pick-a-back plant, youth-on-age, and piggyback plant. In addition to forming plantlets, this species can also reproduce via seeds and rhizomes. Photo by Brewbooks, Wikimedia Commons, via CC BY-SA. The seeds form inside fruit capsules on tall stalks following unusual chocolate brownish-purple flowers with yellow anthers. The stems are hairy and the leaves hairy, heart-shaped or palmate with toothy margins. There is another Tolmei species out there that is indistinguishable from piggyback plant, T. diplomenziesii. This second species only grows in Oregon and a small part of northern California. I mention it because you might occasionally see T. diplomenziesii listed for sale as piggyback plant. It’s essentially the same, and only botanists will know or care about the difference. Youth-on-age grows to about two feet tall and wide when mature, so it’s not too demanding about space, and it will stay even smaller indoors, where it works well in a hanging planter. Outdoors it will spread readily via plantlets, seeds, and rhizomes in moist areas, so it’s perfect for growing as a ground cover. When in bloom it will attract all the pollinators. How to Grow Piggyback plant is quite easy to cultivate provided you try and replicate its natural woodland habitat. Soil Piggyback plants love loose, loamy, rich soil, like what you would find on a moist forest floor, with lots of decomposing organic matter. Ideally, the soil should be well-draining, but this versatile species will tolerate both poorly draining and sandy soil. You’ll just need to be mindful about watering. A pH of between 5.0 and 7.0 is fine. If you’re cultivating in a container, I love FoxFarm’s Ocean Forest potting mix. I use it in my potted plants, raised beds, and to amend small areas of the garden. It’s made using earthworm castings, bat guano, forest humus, and sea meal. FoxFarm Ocean Forest You can find FoxFarm Ocean Forest in one and a half cubic feet bags available via Amazon. Light If you’re growing piggyback plant outdoors, choose a location in shade or dappled light. Photo by Kristine Lofgren. The plants will tolerate partial sun, but you’ll need to be meticulous with your watering. Indoors, bright, indirect light for most of the day is ideal. Humidity Many plants that grow in the Pacific Northwest need a good amount of humidity to survive, but piggyback plant is fine in the average home humidity. Don’t bother worrying about trying to increase the humidity unless you start to see crispy brown edges on the leaves. If that happens, you can group plants together or move yours into a bathroom or kitchen, where the humidity tends to be higher. Water In many parts of the Pacific Northwest, there is constant moisture from October through May, but it can be totally dry during the summer months. Piggyback plants have adapted to that kind of shifting moisture level. If you let the soil dry out a little in the summer, it will be totally fine. Make sure you keep it evenly moist from fall through spring, but short periods of drought shouldn’t be a problem. Ideally, the soil or potting medium should feel like a well-wrung-out sponge, not soggy and wet. Fertilizing Plants outdoors don’t need to be fed unless your soil is extremely depleted. Indoors, you should feed twice a year: once in spring and once in late summer. Whether indoors or out, use a fertilizer with an NPK ratio of 1-1-1 or 2-2-2. Cultivars to Select In the US, you’ll mostly find the species for sale at garden centers and nurseries, but cultivated varieties are becoming more common, especially in Europe and the UK. Here are a few to look out for: Cool Gold Talk about eye-catching, ‘Cool Gold’ has golden foliage and it forms dense clumps. Beyond the foliage color, it’s the same as the species in size and other characteristics. Taff’s Gold Tremendous ‘Taff’s Gold’ is variegated with bright yellow and green foliage. It grows a bit wider than the species but the same height. ‘Taff’s Gold.’ Photo by Noobnarwal, Wikimedia Commons, via CC BY-SA. The downside is that this cultivar is prone to reverting back to green, so prune off any totally green leaves that form to encourage the gold variegation to remain. Variegata ‘Variegata’ is a naturally-occurring variety that was found growing in the wild. It has creamy yellow splotches on green leaves. Otherwise, it’s just like the species. Maintenance Pruning isn’t necessary unless you see dead or dying leaves. Feel free to snip these off. Otherwise, you can prune leaves to create a shape that you like, but it’s not necessary. If yours flowers, which doesn’t always happen indoors, you can remove these at the base, as well. Photo by Kristine Lofgren. Over time, the original specimen will start to become a bit sparse. When this happens, cut it back to the ground and it will re-emerge from the soil with a more dense, compact growth. If your piggyback plant starts to spread where you don’t want it, you can dig it up. It won’t spread into dry or sunny areas, so don’t worry; it’s not prone to taking over an area. Propagation You can propagate piggyback plants from the tiny plantlets it produces, as well as from seeds or by division. From Seed If you have access to an existing plant, you have a ready-made seed source. Or, you can often buy them from companies that specialize in rare or native seeds. Photo by Kristine Lofgren. To harvest your own seeds, you’ll need to wait until late summer after it has flowered and the pods have developed. When the pods turn brown and some of them begin to open, it’s time to harvest. You can pluck the entire pod or rub it between your fingers to release the seeds. Collect them in a bowl or cup underneath as they fall. The seeds need to be cold-stratified for at least a month before sowing. To do this, fill a bag or sealable container with moist sand. Place the seeds in the sand and set the bag or container in the refrigerator. Set a reminder on your phone to check them every week to make sure the sand is evenly moist. After a minimum of one month, but preferably two, they can be sown in pots or trays indoors for transplanting after the last frost date has passed. Alternatively, you can sow the seeds directly in the ground outside in fall and let Mother Nature handle the stratification. Cover the seeds with a bit of soil and then lay chicken wire or some other mesh over the area to protect the seeds from cats, crows, squirrels, and other critters that love to dig in the soil. Divisions Piggyback plants spread via rhizomes and it’s easy to divide these to grow elsewhere. To do this, look for a specimen with multiple clumps of stems. Gently dig down around one of the clumps and lift it out of the ground. Photo by Kristine Lofgren. You might need to snip away some of the roots to fully separate the plant. Set the division in a new spot by digging a hole the same size as the roots. Place the division in the hole and fill in around the roots with fresh soil. Fill in the hole you left behind with soil. From Offsets or Leaf Cuttings Those offsets are what make youth-on-age unique, and you know you’re dying to try your hand at propagating them. Spoiler alert: it’s super easy. The little plantlets that form at the center of the mature leaves can be gently teased away and set it their own containers. Photo by Kristine Lofgren. Or, you can just remove the entire leaf with its piggyback and all. I prefer this method because there’s no risk that you’ll remove the plantlet too early. The offsets start showing up in the late summer and are usually gone by spring. Look for those that are about the size of a pencil eraser or larger on a healthy leaf. Use your fingers to gently tease it away from the parent. Otherwise, pull or cut a leaf with just a bit of petiole and an attached plantlet. Stick the petiole in potting medium with the bottom of the leaf just touching the surface of the medium. Moisten the soil and place the pot in an area with bright, indirect light. Photo by Kristine Lofgren. Keep the medium moist and while roots develop. Either the plantlet will leap off the leaf and start itself in the soil, or the leaf will send out roots. Maybe even both. Either way, keep the newly emerging specimen in its growing container until the following spring. Then you can transplant it outdoors or repot into a permanent container. Transplanting Most houseplant specialists will carry youth-on-age. Your job is to move it from the grower’s pot to a larger, more permanent container or into the ground outdoors. This will be one of the easiest jobs you’ve ever done. Prep the new container by putting a little potting medium in the base so that the crown sits at the same height it is in its existing container. Gently remove the specimen from the growing container and set it in the new pot. Fill in around it with more potting medium. Water, add a bit more potting medium if it settles, and you’re done! For planting in the garden, dig a hole the size of the growing container. Lower the root ball into the hole and fill in around with extra soil, if needed. Water, add more soil if it settles, and voila. Managing Pests and Disease For the most part, piggyback plants are pretty easygoing. Fungus gnats are annoying, but they aren’t the end of the world. They feed on dead material in the ground and sometimes on roots. Photo by Kristine Lofgren. Aphids and mealybugs might also make their way to your piggyback plant. Slugs will also chomp on the foliage. If you grow piggyback plants in heavy clay or other unsuitable soil, chances are high that you’ll end up facing root rot at some point. While this species loves moisture, it doesn’t thrive in poorly-draining soil. Too much standing moisture, whether from overwatering or poor soil, will deprive the roots of oxygen and cause rot. Root rot shows up as brown, dying leaves, and the piggyback plant will eventually collapse. Learn more about root rot here. Bring the Woodlands to Your Space Whether you want to fill a woodland-like space in your garden or you bring the temperate rainforest vibe into your home, piggyback plant is the perfect option. Even if you just want to enjoy the look of the unusual plantlets, you can’t go wrong. Photo by Kristine Lofgren. What are your goals with this plant? Looking to please the local pollinators? Or will it be the perfect houseplant for your space? Let us know in the comments section below! If you found this guide useful and you’re looking for a few more plants with interesting foliage, check out these guides: Photos by Kristine Lofgren © Ask the Experts, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. See our TOS for more details. Product photo via FoxFarm. 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Tolmiea menziesii The first time I saw a piggyback plant, I was hiking Mount Hood in Oregon with a friend who lived in the region. I saw this cute herbaceous plant with a funky, tiny leaf growing out of its foliage. I asked my friend what the heck I was looking at, and he told me it was called youth-on-age. We link to vendors to help you find relevant products. If you buy from one of our links, we may earn a commission. Turns out, not only is piggyback plant, as it’s also known, a beloved native in my area, but it’s a valued ornamental in other regions with a similar climate. On top of that, it’s a popular houseplant in areas not blessed with the perfect Pacific Northwest climate (I might be biased). Whether you intend to grow piggyback plant in a hanging pot in your kitchen, an urn for your entry, or even in the garden, this guide will help you out. Here’s a look at what I’ll cover: Tolmei menziesii is an herbaceous evergreen in the Saxifragaceae family, native to the Pacific Northwest in the cool, moist climate west of the Cascade mountains in southern Alaska, Washington, Oregon, and northern California. If you live in Zones 6 to 9, you can grow it outside in shady, moist areas. Otherwise, it makes a delightful houseplant. When not in its reproductive stage during the summer, it looks a little like a small, herbaceous maple tree because the leaves have a similar shape to those of Acer species. But then the tiny plantlets form at the point where the stem meets the leaf and suddenly piggyback plant looks quite different from everything else. This plantlet will eventually fall off and root in the ground. Basically, the youngsters live on the mature plant, absorbing nutrients and moisture, until they’re ready to head off on their own. Quick Look Common name(s): Curiosity plant, pick-a-back, piggyback plant, youth-on-age Plant type: Herbaceous semi-evergreen perennial Hardiness (USDA Zone): 6-9 (outdoors) Native to: Pacific Northwest Bloom time / season: Spring, early summer Exposure: Partial sun, part shade, shade Soil type: Loose, loamy, well draining Soil pH: 5.0-7.0, slightly acidic to neutral Time to maturity: 1 year Mature size: 2 ft wide x 2 ft high Best uses: Woodland or pollinator garden, houseplant, ground cover Taxonomy Order: Saxifragales Family: Saxifragaceae Genus: Tolmiea Species: Menziesii T. menziesii has several common names that reflect its funky reproductive habit. It may be called curiosity plant, mother of thousands (not to be confused with the succulent, Kalanchoe daigremontiana), pick-a-back plant, youth-on-age, and piggyback plant. In addition to forming plantlets, this species can also reproduce via seeds and rhizomes. Photo by Brewbooks, Wikimedia Commons, via CC BY-SA. The seeds form inside fruit capsules on tall stalks following unusual chocolate brownish-purple flowers with yellow anthers. The stems are hairy and the leaves hairy, heart-shaped or palmate with toothy margins. There is another Tolmei species out there that is indistinguishable from piggyback plant, T. diplomenziesii. This second species only grows in Oregon and a small part of northern California. I mention it because you might occasionally see T. diplomenziesii listed for sale as piggyback plant. It’s essentially the same, and only botanists will know or care about the difference. Youth-on-age grows to about two feet tall and wide when mature, so it’s not too demanding about space, and it will stay even smaller indoors, where it works well in a hanging planter. Outdoors it will spread readily via plantlets, seeds, and rhizomes in moist areas, so it’s perfect for growing as a ground cover. When in bloom it will attract all the pollinators. How to Grow Piggyback plant is quite easy to cultivate provided you try and replicate its natural woodland habitat. Soil Piggyback plants love loose, loamy, rich soil, like what you would find on a moist forest floor, with lots of decomposing organic matter. Ideally, the soil should be well-draining, but this versatile species will tolerate both poorly draining and sandy soil. You’ll just need to be mindful about watering. A pH of between 5.0 and 7.0 is fine. If you’re cultivating in a container, I love FoxFarm’s Ocean Forest potting mix. I use it in my potted plants, raised beds, and to amend small areas of the garden. It’s made using earthworm castings, bat guano, forest humus, and sea meal. FoxFarm Ocean Forest You can find FoxFarm Ocean Forest in one and a half cubic feet bags available via Amazon. Light If you’re growing piggyback plant outdoors, choose a location in shade or dappled light. Photo by Kristine Lofgren. The plants will tolerate partial sun, but you’ll need to be meticulous with your watering. Indoors, bright, indirect light for most of the day is ideal. Humidity Many plants that grow in the Pacific Northwest need a good amount of humidity to survive, but piggyback plant is fine in the average home humidity. Don’t bother worrying about trying to increase the humidity unless you start to see crispy brown edges on the leaves. If that happens, you can group plants together or move yours into a bathroom or kitchen, where the humidity tends to be higher. Water In many parts of the Pacific Northwest, there is constant moisture from October through May, but it can be totally dry during the summer months. Piggyback plants have adapted to that kind of shifting moisture level. If you let the soil dry out a little in the summer, it will be totally fine. Make sure you keep it evenly moist from fall through spring, but short periods of drought shouldn’t be a problem. Ideally, the soil or potting medium should feel like a well-wrung-out sponge, not soggy and wet. Fertilizing Plants outdoors don’t need to be fed unless your soil is extremely depleted. Indoors, you should feed twice a year: once in spring and once in late summer. Whether indoors or out, use a fertilizer with an NPK ratio of 1-1-1 or 2-2-2. Cultivars to Select In the US, you’ll mostly find the species for sale at garden centers and nurseries, but cultivated varieties are becoming more common, especially in Europe and the UK. Here are a few to look out for: Cool Gold Talk about eye-catching, ‘Cool Gold’ has golden foliage and it forms dense clumps. Beyond the foliage color, it’s the same as the species in size and other characteristics. Taff’s Gold Tremendous ‘Taff’s Gold’ is variegated with bright yellow and green foliage. It grows a bit wider than the species but the same height. ‘Taff’s Gold.’ Photo by Noobnarwal, Wikimedia Commons, via CC BY-SA. The downside is that this cultivar is prone to reverting back to green, so prune off any totally green leaves that form to encourage the gold variegation to remain. Variegata ‘Variegata’ is a naturally-occurring variety that was found growing in the wild. It has creamy yellow splotches on green leaves. Otherwise, it’s just like the species. Maintenance Pruning isn’t necessary unless you see dead or dying leaves. Feel free to snip these off. Otherwise, you can prune leaves to create a shape that you like, but it’s not necessary. If yours flowers, which doesn’t always happen indoors, you can remove these at the base, as well. Photo by Kristine Lofgren. Over time, the original specimen will start to become a bit sparse. When this happens, cut it back to the ground and it will re-emerge from the soil with a more dense, compact growth. If your piggyback plant starts to spread where you don’t want it, you can dig it up. It won’t spread into dry or sunny areas, so don’t worry; it’s not prone to taking over an area. Propagation You can propagate piggyback plants from the tiny plantlets it produces, as well as from seeds or by division. From Seed If you have access to an existing plant, you have a ready-made seed source. Or, you can often buy them from companies that specialize in rare or native seeds. Photo by Kristine Lofgren. To harvest your own seeds, you’ll need to wait until late summer after it has flowered and the pods have developed. When the pods turn brown and some of them begin to open, it’s time to harvest. You can pluck the entire pod or rub it between your fingers to release the seeds. Collect them in a bowl or cup underneath as they fall. The seeds need to be cold-stratified for at least a month before sowing. To do this, fill a bag or sealable container with moist sand. Place the seeds in the sand and set the bag or container in the refrigerator. Set a reminder on your phone to check them every week to make sure the sand is evenly moist. After a minimum of one month, but preferably two, they can be sown in pots or trays indoors for transplanting after the last frost date has passed. Alternatively, you can sow the seeds directly in the ground outside in fall and let Mother Nature handle the stratification. Cover the seeds with a bit of soil and then lay chicken wire or some other mesh over the area to protect the seeds from cats, crows, squirrels, and other critters that love to dig in the soil. Divisions Piggyback plants spread via rhizomes and it’s easy to divide these to grow elsewhere. To do this, look for a specimen with multiple clumps of stems. Gently dig down around one of the clumps and lift it out of the ground. Photo by Kristine Lofgren. You might need to snip away some of the roots to fully separate the plant. Set the division in a new spot by digging a hole the same size as the roots. Place the division in the hole and fill in around the roots with fresh soil. Fill in the hole you left behind with soil. From Offsets or Leaf Cuttings Those offsets are what make youth-on-age unique, and you know you’re dying to try your hand at propagating them. Spoiler alert: it’s super easy. The little plantlets that form at the center of the mature leaves can be gently teased away and set it their own containers. Photo by Kristine Lofgren. Or, you can just remove the entire leaf with its piggyback and all. I prefer this method because there’s no risk that you’ll remove the plantlet too early. The offsets start showing up in the late summer and are usually gone by spring. Look for those that are about the size of a pencil eraser or larger on a healthy leaf. Use your fingers to gently tease it away from the parent. Otherwise, pull or cut a leaf with just a bit of petiole and an attached plantlet. Stick the petiole in potting medium with the bottom of the leaf just touching the surface of the medium. Moisten the soil and place the pot in an area with bright, indirect light. Photo by Kristine Lofgren. Keep the medium moist and while roots develop. Either the plantlet will leap off the leaf and start itself in the soil, or the leaf will send out roots. Maybe even both. Either way, keep the newly emerging specimen in its growing container until the following spring. Then you can transplant it outdoors or repot into a permanent container. Transplanting Most houseplant specialists will carry youth-on-age. Your job is to move it from the grower’s pot to a larger, more permanent container or into the ground outdoors. This will be one of the easiest jobs you’ve ever done. Prep the new container by putting a little potting medium in the base so that the crown sits at the same height it is in its existing container. Gently remove the specimen from the growing container and set it in the new pot. Fill in around it with more potting medium. Water, add a bit more potting medium if it settles, and you’re done! For planting in the garden, dig a hole the size of the growing container. Lower the root ball into the hole and fill in around with extra soil, if needed. Water, add more soil if it settles, and voila. Managing Pests and Disease For the most part, piggyback plants are pretty easygoing. Fungus gnats are annoying, but they aren’t the end of the world. They feed on dead material in the ground and sometimes on roots. Photo by Kristine Lofgren. Aphids and mealybugs might also make their way to your piggyback plant. Slugs will also chomp on the foliage. If you grow piggyback plants in heavy clay or other unsuitable soil, chances are high that you’ll end up facing root rot at some point. While this species loves moisture, it doesn’t thrive in poorly-draining soil. Too much standing moisture, whether from overwatering or poor soil, will deprive the roots of oxygen and cause rot. Root rot shows up as brown, dying leaves, and the piggyback plant will eventually collapse. Learn more about root rot here. Bring the Woodlands to Your Space Whether you want to fill a woodland-like space in your garden or you bring the temperate rainforest vibe into your home, piggyback plant is the perfect option. Even if you just want to enjoy the look of the unusual plantlets, you can’t go wrong. Photo by Kristine Lofgren. What are your goals with this plant? Looking to please the local pollinators? Or will it be the perfect houseplant for your space? Let us know in the comments section below! If you found this guide useful and you’re looking for a few more plants with interesting foliage, check out these guides: Photos by Kristine Lofgren © Ask the Experts, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. See our TOS for more details. Product photo via FoxFarm. 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