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The common cold doesn’t stand a chance against echinacea. This powerful plant has been used for centuries to combat viruses and bacteria, and remains one of the most influential herbal plants today. Learn all about echinacea benefits and uses, and how you can use echinacea to boost your immunity, straight from the source. Echinacea would win an herbal popularity contest in a landslide. It’s quickly made its way into the mainstream, becoming a pill or tincture you can buy at the same time you grab your milk and bread from the grocery store. But I wonder how many people know that echinacea is actually a powerful plant with a deep history. Or one that seed-eating birds and pollinating insects love to snack on and visit. Echinacea will grow on poor land, survive droughts, and still produce long-blooming flowers. As you can tell, I’m a big echinacea fan. Today, I’m going to dive into why we know echinacea as an immune system powerhouse, and how you can utilize it to its fullest strength this cold and flu season. This guide will focus on the medicinal species, but there are nine different echinacea species. Meet the Echinacea Flower Also known as the coneflower, echinacea is part of the Asteraceae family (the daisy family). It’s Native to North America, including Saskatchewan, Manitoba, New Mexico, Texas, and Louisiana, where it grows in prairies and amongst woodlands. Echinacea are distinct from other daisy-like flowers thanks to their large, cone-like center. They have a bristly center and hairy leaves, giving them a notable texture. They grow as perennials with a long tap root. There are nine echinacea species, but only three are used medicinally. The Echinacea purpurea (purple coneflower) and Echinacea angustifolia (narrow-leaved coneflower) are the most popular medicinal species, while the Echinacea pallida (pale purple coneflower) is used by some. While there are some beautiful hybrid varieties, like ‘Sunset’ or ‘Sunrise’, I wouldn’t consider them to be medicinal. They might have different constituents in them and have been bred for different qualities.   To learn more about how to grow and care for these wonderful plants, both medicinally and as ornamentals, be sure to check out my echinacea growing guide. Echinacea flowers typically bloom for several weeks. History of Echinacea The word echinacea comes from the Greek word for echinos, which can translate to sea urchin or hedgehog…two very different creatures! In this case, it refers to the prickly and spikey cone head. Echinacea has been traditionally used by the North American Plains People for over 400 years, and we have them to thank for the incredible popularity of this herb. They called the plant elk root after they observed sick and injured elk eating it. The indigenous people used echinacea for many reasons, but most notably used it to treat cold symptoms (unlike today, where we more often use it to prevent cold symptoms). Other notable uses include helping to dispel mucus, relieve insect and snake bites, alleviate burns, and assist with dental cavities. By the late 1800s, echinacea was the most common herb used in the US. It was slowly introduced to Europe and European-American physicians, where it continues to be used today. Native to North America, echinacea is an important herb for indigenous people. Echinacea Benefits Echinacea is marketed as THE cold and flu herb, and for good reason. It’s known first and foremost as a detoxicant for the circulatory, lymphatic and respiratory systems. AKA it’s an immunity superhero. Echinacea is antimicrobial, analgesic, and anti-inflammatory, working best as an anti-viral. When echinacea makes direct contact with a virus, it helps to strengthen the mucus and prevent the virus from going deeper into the issue. It has a notable tingling sensation. Echinacea works best at addressing a virus ahead of time. People can use it when they first feel the slightest symptoms or have been around someone who was sick to prevent a virus from getting worse. However, it’s less helpful at treating colds once established. Many more studies need to be done on echinacea and its use. Some studies show how well it works, while others are inconclusive. But there are so many factors to consider, including what species they use, what part of the plant, what dosage, etc. I trust in the knowledge passed down from generations and the firsthand experience of its effectiveness! Antioxidant, Anti-Inflammatory, and Inhibitor Echinacea is known as an anti-inflammatory, being used to reduce swelling and help with chronic pain. It’s also high in antioxidants, most notably in the flowers and leaves. It’s also been suggested that these antioxidants can help to improve blood sugar. One lesser-known use can be dated back to the indigenous people and their use of echinacea to treat snake bites. Echinacea can inhibit hyaluronidase enzymes, which are known to break down hyaluronic acid in our connective tissues and skin. Echinacea can prevent this from happening, helping to hold onto that hyaluronic acid in our tissues and prevent the spread of the enzymes. How to Use Echinacea Echinacea is known first and foremost as an immune booster and is readily available in Western medicine. You can get it in drops, tinctures, syrups, and pills, all available at your local grocery store or herbal store. I went to this amazing talk on the medicinal properties of plants, and during the discussion, they noted that these commercial products aren’t as effective as utilizing the actual plant. Why? There is so much that we still don’t know about how these plants work together. It may not be just the medicinal property that we need, but a constituent in the plant that helps to activate the medicinal effect on people. And they haven’t figured out that puzzle piece yet. So while you can take echinacea as an herbal supplement and suck on the lozenges when you have a cold, it won’t have the same effect as growing the medicinal plant and making a tincture yourself. There are many opinions on which type of echinacea is better to use, and whether the roots or the fresh juice of the flowers and leaves is better. Most people use either the juice of the aerial parts of E. purpurea or the root of E. angustifolia. I prefer to use the root of E. purpurea.  For me, it is the strongest and grows best in my garden, but determine what is best for yourself and what’s the most readily available in your area. If you’re buying echinacea commercially, be sure to purchase from reputable brands. Multiple studies (like this one or this one) have shown that some brands contain very little or even no echinacea. It should make a tingling sensation on the tongue. If it doesn’t, it’s not potent enough to be of use. Some people prefer to use the aerial parts of the plant, while others prefer the root. Harvesting Echinacea Sustainably Since echinacea prefers prairies and open grassland, it is considered at-risk due to habitat loss from agricultural use. It’s best to grow your own rather than forage for it. If harvesting roots, they’re best harvested in the fall after the first frost. You can then dry the root for use. To make juice from the leaves and flowers, they’re best harvested during the summer when they are in full bloom. If using the flowers and leaves, they’re best used fresh as they lose potency when dried. Only harvest organically grown echinacea if you plan to use it for medicinal purposes. Medicinal Uses The roots are commonly used to make a tincture, just in time for cold and flu season. I explain exactly how to make your own tincture in this post. Use tinctures to help boost your immunity. Make direct contact with the back of your throat, making sure you feel that tingling sensation to know that it’s working. You can also use the plant topically by grinding the herb and mixing it with water before placing it on the affected area. Of course, echinacea is also a very popular herbal tea. I explain how to make it in a tea in this post. Note that echinacea has shown signs of potential efficacy when overused. Take echinacea for 10-14 days and then take a short break. Echinacea should cause a tingling sensation when ingested orally. Other Non-Medicinal Uses I also wanted to shout out some of the other ways that I use echinacea besides its medicinal properties and as an ornamental garden plant. I love to dry the flower petals and use them in soap. They retain their purple colour beautifully and are always easy to dry. I also use the flower heads in dried arrangements. The petals will curl and look nice on their own, but you can also pull them off and embrace the spike cone in the center. Dried echinacea petals are used to decorate the top of this swirl soap. I’ve covered a lot here on echinacea, so I’ll leave it at that! Be sure to check out my growing guide or tincture guide for more information. If you have any questions, feel free to leave them in the comments below. More Helpful Tips for Echinacea A city girl who learned to garden and it changed everything. Author, artist, Master Gardener. Better living through plants. Source link

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PinYour garden is begging for these life-changing hacks, and you probably have everything you need sitting in your kitchen right now!The secret most plant experts won’t tell you is that the most powerful garden transformations come from the most unexpected places.Here’s a shocking statistic: 67% of gardeners throw away items daily that could triple their plant growth.Those eggshells you toss? That rice water going down the drain? They’re liquid gold for your struggling plants!I was amazed to discover that professional gardeners have been quietly using these household “waste” items for decades.Today, I’m spilling all their secrets. Get ready to become the gardening genius your neighbors will be asking about!1. Boost Plant Growth with Boiled Egg WaterStop pouring this miracle elixir down the drain! After boiling eggs, that calcium-rich water is like a protein shake for your plants. This nutrient-packed liquid strengthens cell walls and promotes explosive growth.PinLet it cool completely, then watch your plants thrive like never before. It’s like giving your garden a vitamin injection!2. Enhance Soil Quality with Used Coffee GroundsYour morning coffee ritual just became your garden’s best friend. Used coffee grounds are the ultimate soil transformer. They improve drainage, boost water retention, and pump nitrogen directly into your soil.Simply sprinkle them around your plants like you’re seasoning a gourmet meal. Your plants will thank you with lush, vibrant growth that’ll make your neighbors jealous!3. Strengthen Roots with Rice WaterThat starchy rice water you’ve been wasting? It’s a root-strengthening powerhouse packed with vitamins and minerals. Think of it as a protein smoothie for your plant’s foundation system.Use it regularly and prepare to be shocked by the robust root development. Strong roots equal spectacular above-ground results!4. Cinnamon to Prevent FungusThis kitchen spice is your seedlings’ bodyguard! Cinnamon’s antifungal properties create an invisible shield against damping-off disease – the silent killer of young plants.Sprinkle it on the soil like fairy dust when planting seeds. It’s the game-changer between seedling success and heartbreaking failure.5. DIY Drip Irrigation SystemForget expensive irrigation systems! A simple plastic bottle with holes poked in the cap becomes your plants’ personal water butler. This brilliant hack delivers consistent moisture exactly where roots need it most.PinBury it near plant roots, fill with water, and watch this slow-release system work its magic. It’s like having a gardening assistant that never takes a day off!6. Vinegar as a Natural Weed KillerYour salad dressing ingredient is actually a ruthless weed assassin! The acetic acid in vinegar dries out weeds on contact, and it’s completely chemical-free.Spray it on a sunny day and watch those stubborn weeds surrender. Mother Nature’s own weed killer has been hiding in your pantry all along!7. Hydrogen Peroxide Plant RevivalWhen your plants are on death’s door, this medicine cabinet hero swoops in for the rescue! Hydrogen peroxide oxygenates soil and combats deadly root rot like a plant paramedic.Mix one part peroxide with ten parts water. It’s the difference between plant funeral and plant resurrection!8. Mulching for Moisture RetentionThis simple covering technique is like giving your soil a cozy blanket that works overtime. Mulch retains moisture, suppresses weeds, and regulates temperature while slowly feeding your soil as it decomposes.Use straw, wood chips, or leaves. Your plants will experience the garden equivalent of a luxury spa treatment!9. Eggshells for Calcium-Rich SoilThose breakfast leftovers are pure calcium treasure! Crushed eggshells release calcium slowly, preventing the dreaded blossom end rot that destroys tomatoes and peppers.Think of eggshells as slow-release calcium supplements for your plants. Strong cell structure equals healthier, more productive plants!10. Baking Soda for Sweeter TomatoesThis baking essential can actually make your tomatoes taste like candy! By reducing soil acidity, baking soda creates the perfect pH environment for incredibly sweet tomatoes.PinSprinkle small amounts around tomato bases. It’s like adjusting the seasoning in your garden’s recipe for success!11. Natural Pest Control with Neem OilThis powerful natural pesticide disrupts pest life cycles without harming the good guys. Neem oil is like a bouncer for your garden – it kicks out the troublemakers and protects the VIPs.Dilute with water and dish soap, then spray away aphids and spider mites. Your plants get protection without toxic chemicals!12. Epsom Salt for Greener LeavesThis bathroom staple is actually magnesium sulfate – the secret ingredient for photosynthesis supercharging! Magnesium-deficient plants look pale and sad, but Epsom salt brings back that vibrant green glory.Dissolve in water and apply every few weeks. Watch leaves transform from lackluster to absolutely stunning!13. Composting for Richer SoilTurn your kitchen scraps into black gold! Composting transforms waste into the most nutrient-dense soil amendment possible. It’s like creating a gourmet meal for your soil organisms.Fruit peels, vegetable scraps, and grass clippings become the foundation of garden success. Your plants will flourish in this homemade paradise!14. Fish Emulsion for Nutrient BoostThis potent organic fertilizer is like a protein shake for plants! Rich in nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, fish emulsion delivers explosive growth results that synthetic fertilizers can’t match.Dilute and apply every few weeks. The smell might be strong, but the results are spectacular!15. Aloe Vera as Natural Rooting HormoneThat sunburn soother on your windowsill is actually a rooting miracle worker! Aloe vera gel contains natural enzymes that encourage root development while protecting against nasty pathogens.PinDip cuttings in aloe gel before planting. It’s nature’s own rooting hormone that actually works!16. Companion Planting for Pest ManagementStrategic plant partnerships create a natural defense system in your garden! Marigolds with tomatoes repel nematodes, while basil improves tomato flavor and deters flies.It’s like creating plant friendships that benefit everyone. Your garden becomes a balanced ecosystem that protects itself!17. Garlic Spray for Pest ControlThis kitchen staple creates an invisible force field around your plants! Garlic’s powerful scent repels insects like aphids and caterpillars without harming beneficial bugs.Blend garlic with water, strain, and spray. It’s like giving your plants their own pest-repelling bodyguard!18. Rainwater Harvesting for Sustainable GardeningFree, chemical-free water falling from the sky? Yes, please! Rainwater lacks the chlorine and chemicals found in tap water, making it the premium choice for plant health.Set up a rain barrel and watch your water bill shrink while your plants thrive on nature’s perfect hydration!19. Use of Seaweed Extract for Plant GrowthThis ocean treasure provides micronutrients that supercharge plant development! Seaweed extract enhances root growth, improves stress tolerance, and boosts overall plant vitality.Apply as a foliar spray or soil drench. It’s like giving your plants a mineral-rich spa treatment from the sea!20. Homemade Fertilizer with Banana PeelsThose smoothie leftovers are potassium powerhouses! Banana peels provide potassium, phosphorus, and calcium – the holy trinity of plant nutrition.PinChop and bury near plants, or create banana peel tea. Your plants will reward you with incredible growth and abundant blooms!The game-changer for your garden isn’t expensive equipment or fancy fertilizers – it’s recognizing the incredible potential hiding in your everyday household items.These 20 hacks will transform your struggling plants into the thriving garden paradise you’ve always dreamed of! Source link

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Butterflies aren’t just beautiful, they are also helpful pollinators that will help our gardens thrive. Attract them to your yard with this butterfly feeder project. It’s an easy DIY project that will help keep your garden flourishing all year long.  Butterflies are magical creatures that grace us with their beauty. Their bright colours are a welcome addition to any garden. As with bees, they are essential pollinators. In fact, a butterfly’s lifecycle requires them to have host plants and food plants for pollination. Butterflies will keep your garden thriving and add a pretty pop of colour to your space too. How do you attract them to your yard? There are many plants that they love, but an easy way to attract butterflies to your garden is to make a butterfly feeder. If you’re looking for an extra way to support the butterflies in your garden, then follow these steps to make a butterfly feeder. Butterflies love bright, warm colours. How to Make a Butterfly Feeder This simple DIY will keep butterflies coming to your yard month after month. Plus, the butterfly feeder is a pretty addition to your yard too. Here’s how to make one, step by step. Butterfly Feeder Supplies Plate – Any type of plate will do. The plate I used is shaped like a hibiscus flower. There are notches where the “petals” connect, making it easier to fit in the macrame-style holder. If you plan to use a round plate, you will also need to get a wall mount plate holder. Mason line or twine – I used mason line to hang my feeder. I used it because it’s made from a synthetic material that will not deteriorate as fast as natural twine. The feeder will hang outside in an area with little shelter and I wanted to make sure the rope holds through the whole season. Washer (or another metal ring) Beads – The beads are optional. I like the way they dress up the feeder. Butterflies delight us with their beauty, so I decided to make this feeder extra pretty for them. Get an inexpensive plate from the thrift or dollar store. Make it! First, cut 5 lengths of mason line about 3 feet long. I used 5 pieces of string because I have 5 petal notches on my plate. If you are using a round plate with a wall hanger, you should only need 4 lengths of string. Loop the pieces of string through the metal ring and tie a double knot. Do not worry about the ends at the moment. If you are using beads, add them about 12 inches from the top. Make sure the beads all line up evenly. Then, tie a knot underneath each bead. The beads are optional, used as decoration only. Tie all the strings together about 6 inches down from the beads. Cut the excess mason line a half inch from the knot. Use a lighter or flame from a candle to lightly melt the edges of the strings. I melted mine all the way back to the base of the knot. Do this to the knot that’s securing the metal ring, too. This will keep frays at bay and help keep the knot from slipping. Melt the ends of your string with a lighter. Set the plate in the holder and hang it up in a sunny place in your garden. Then, add some butterfly food and watch them eat. I added lemons, melon, and flowers to my butterfly feeder. What Do Butterflies Eat? Butterflies feed on nectar (sugar from a plant). So, fresh fruits work very well as butterfly food. You can also make nectar from honey and water, but I think it’s less messy to add some fruit to the plate. Butterflies are attracted to red, yellow, orange, pink, and purple colours, so keep that in mind when selecting fruit. If you are worried about ants getting in on the feast, you can add a bit of water to the dish as a deterrent. Orange slices work great as butterfly food. Tips for Attracting Butterflies A butterfly feeder is only one way to attract butterflies to your garden. If you want to keep them really happy, you will need to have plants that serve the needs of all the life stages of the butterfly. Adults need nectar, a safe place to lay their eggs, food for their larvae and a place to form chrysalides (cocoons). In addition to the right plants, butterflies like full sun, a place to rest their wings, and a place to drink. An easy way to create a butterfly sanctuary is to plant bright flowers that love full sun, add a flat rock to the garden for the butterflies to bask, and put a small, shallow pan of water out for them to drink. You can read more about how to make a butterfly garden here. Include plants in your garden to sustain butterflies during each life stage. Butterfly-Friendly Plants You really cannot go wrong with any type of brightly coloured flower for butterflies. However, remember that the plants must support the larvae and cocoons as well. There are many butterfly-friendly plants, so the chances are you can find a few that will suit your growing zone. Here’s a list of some plants that will attract butterflies to your garden: Butterflies aren’t attracted to blue, so include lighter shades of purple instead. Find out more about why some butterflies love milkweed and how to grow it in your garden here. In addition to having a pretty flower garden, you can attract these lovely pollinators at the same time, a perfect garden partnership. Now, don’t forget about the bees! Here is how to attract them to your garden (and a bee bath project that the butterflies will love). Butterflies and bees aren’t the only beneficial insects you want in your garden! Find out about the 7 best bugs for the garden. More Ways to Support Pollinators How to Make a Butterfly Feeder Keep these pretty pollinators active in your garden with this simple DIY butterfly feeder. Cut 4 pieces of mason line into 3 foot sections.Loop the pieces through the metal ring and tie with a double knot. Add beads to the line about 12" from the top, lined up evenly. Tie a knot under each bead to keep in place.Tie all the strings together about 6" underneath the beads, then cut the excess line about 1/2" away from the knot.Do the same to the knot that's holding the metal ring too to prevent fraying. Add your plate and hang it in a sunny place in the garden, topped with butterfly food. Debbie Wolfe is a mom of two rambunctious boys, wife, and work-at-home mom from Georgia. In her free time (when there is such a thing), she is in the garden or hidden away reading the latest post-apocalyptic sci-fi drama! As interests, Debbie is an obsessive crafter, home chef, and gardener. She is a freelance writer, blogger, and is a co-author and photographer behind the garden blog, The Prudent Garden; a collection of tips, crafts, and articles that highlight home gardening. Source link

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Hi GPODers! Few can pick up a paintbrush for the first time and recreate a Picasso in the same afternoon. Even fewer could try piano as a beginner and finish their first session with a perfect rendition of Beethoven. However, many can pot up some pretty plants and instantly create something spectacular where there once was nothing. This is not to downplay the amount of work that goes into gardening but to emphasize how a low barrier to entry makes this pastime accessible and easy to get hooked on. With a little research, trial, and error, you’re on the fast track to building beautiful beds that you’re constantly tweaking and upgrading. This is exactly the case for Jennifer Furan in Eden Prairie, Minnesota. She is a newer gardener, really getting into it after moving to her current home in 2021. In that short amount of time, she has done a lot of work to create an incredible garden with some seriously beautiful plants, as if this were a hobby she has been mastering for decades. Hi GPODers! I’m a relatively new gardener, having moved to our current home in Eden Prairie, Minnesota in 2021. I garden in Zone 4b/5a on a suburban lot that’s about one-third of an acre. Our first task was to remove overgrown and unkempt junipers that surrounded the property at the borders, much to the neighbors’ delight. Then the tough part began: what to do with all of the suddenly empty garden beds. Year one was spent just doing my best to manage the weeds. Year two, I filled the space in with easy-care annuals, while I figured out this whole gardening thing. After hours of researching and listening to podcasts, of course, including Let’s Argue About Plants, I finally felt confident enough to start putting in perennials and shrubs. I’m sharing some pictures of my progress in the last two years. The part-shade area of the back garden is a garden bed we share with the neighbors behind us. ‘Sun King’ aralia (Aralia cordata ‘Sun King’, Zones 4–8) has grown significantly in two years, with a ‘Euphoria Ruby’ Joe Pye weed (Eutrochium purpureum ‘FLOREUPRE1’, Zones 5–9) in front of it, which is in bud for the upcoming fall weather. To the right is ‘Brilliance’ autumn fern (Dryopteris erythrosora ‘Brilliance’, Zones 4–9) with heart-leaved golden Alexanders (Zizia aptera, Zones 3–8) from a local native plant nursery. The ‘Sun King’ aralia always catches my attention as I glance out the kitchen window while washing dishes, and never fails to put a smile on my face. The best part of improving the garden spaces in our yard is the many visitors we are graced with each day. This swallowtail butterfly loved the ‘Jeana’ garden phlox (Phlox paniculata ‘Jeana’, Zones 4–8) that recently started blooming this season. I’ve quickly found the need to spontaneously create new garden spaces because I’ve run out of places to put new plants. And while I wait for plants to bulk up, this year I added annual verbena (Verbena bonariensis, Zones 7–11 or as an annual) to help fill in the space. The monarchs and bumblebees have particularly loved this addition. From back to front and left to right: ‘Summer Wine’ ninebark (Physocarpus opulifolius ‘Seward’, Zones 3–7), ‘Blackhawks’ big bluestem (Andropogon gerardii ‘Blackhawks’, Zones 3–9), Verbena bonariensis, Rock ’N Grow® ‘Midnight Velvet’ sedum (Sedum ‘Midnight Velvet’, Zones 3–9), and ‘Ogon’ spirea (Spiraea thunbergii ‘Ogon’, Zones 4–8). Last spring I took on the perhaps ill-advised task of converting a 60-foot-long and 20-foot-deep area of grass along the road into a new garden space. The impetus for this was that I was tired of repairing this area each spring and trying to grow grass that never took in this full-sun space with the radiant heat from the black pavement street. I put in a mix of plants native to my area and ornamentals. It has been fun to see the pollinator activity. Gardening in the front yard resulted in a lot of questions from neighbors who didn’t necessarily understand what I was doing. In this second year, those same neighbors have transitioned to complimenting how the garden is looking. Butterfly weed (Asclepias tuberosa, Zones 3–9, left), ‘Montrose White’ calamint (Calamintha nepeta ‘Montrose White’, Zones 5–9, right), with purple poppy mallow (Callirhoe involucrata, Zones 4–8, in front) Also in this new front yard garden: ‘White Swan’ coneflower (Echinacea purpurea ‘White Swan’, Zones 3–8) with our native pearly everlasting (Anaphalis margaritacea, Zones 3–8) Another view of this front garden: ‘White Swan’ coneflower backed up with old field goldenrod (Solidago nemoralis, Zones 3–9), New Jersey tea (Ceanothus americanus, Zones 3–8), ‘Summer Romance’ and ‘Pink Cotton’ Candy’ betony (Stachys officinalis ‘Summer Romance’ and ‘Pink Cotton’, Zones 4–8), butterfly weed, ‘Montrose White’ calamint, and purple poppy mallow All of the gardening work has led to me wanting to find ways to relax in the shade. This is a favorite spot under a ‘Whitespire’ birch (Betula populifolia ‘Whitespire’, Zones 3–6) with a new glider bench. I’ve put together a small fountain consisting of a cement outdoor pot filled with large rocks to act as landing perches for birds and pollinators, and adding a solar water pump. It creates the perfect space to relax, especially after a long day working in the garden. Front: ‘Lemon Zest’ Japanese forest grass (Hakonechloa macra ‘HakBri1’, Zones 5–9), hellebores, and FlowerFull smooth hydrangea (Hydrangea arborescens ‘Baiful’, Zones 3–8) Thank you so much for sharing your impressive plantings with us, Jen! It’s clear to see the research you did before purchasing your plants; you’ve amassed some superb specimens that will undoubtably mature into an incredible garden oasis. Just as gardening has a low barrier to entry, Garden Photo of the Day does not have any entry requirements! No matter how much experience you have, what kinds of plants you grow, or what your goals with this hobby are, we would love to highlight your garden. Follow the directions below to submit photos via email, or send me a DM on Instagram: @agirlherdogandtheroad.   We want to see YOUR garden! Have photos to share? We’d love to see your garden, a particular collection of plants you love, or a wonderful garden you had the chance to visit! To submit, send 5–10 photos to [email protected] along with some information about the plants in the pictures and where you took the photos. We’d love to hear where you are located, how long you’ve been gardening, successes you are proud of, failures you learned from, hopes for the future, favorite plants, or funny stories from your garden. Have a mobile phone? Tag your photos on Facebook, Instagram, or Twitter with #FineGardening! Do you receive the GPOD by email yet? Sign up here Fine Gardening Recommended Products Buffalo-Style Gardens: Create a Quirky, One-of-a-Kind Private Garden with Eye-Catching Designs Fine Gardening receives a commission for items purchased through links on this site, including Amazon Associates and other affiliate advertising programs. Buffalo-Style Gardens is a one-of-a-kind, offbeat garden design book that showcases the wildly inventive gardens and gardeners of Buffalo – and offers readers "the best of the best” ideas to use in their own small-space gardens. The Nature of Oaks: The Rich Ecology of Our Most Essential Native Trees Fine Gardening receives a commission for items purchased through links on this site, including Amazon Associates and other affiliate advertising programs. The Nature of Oaks reveals what is going on in oak trees month by month, highlighting the seasonal cycles of life, death, and renewal. From woodpeckers who collect and store hundreds of acorns for sustenance to the beauty of jewel caterpillars, Doug Tallamy illuminates and celebrates the wonders that occur right in our own backyards. He also shares practical advice about how to plant and care for an oak, along with information about the best oak species for your area. The Regenerative Landscaper: Design and Build Landscapes That Repair the Environment Fine Gardening receives a commission for items purchased through links on this site, including Amazon Associates and other affiliate advertising programs. 2024 Nautilus Award Gold Medal Winner! This awe-inspiring guide weaves together permaculture design, food resiliency, climate adaptation, community organizing, and indigenous wisdom that you can implement in your own backyard. Source link

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Gone are the days when I felt comfortable rolling up to the beach with a big towel and a pair of sunglasses. SPF aside, now a beach day involves coolers, umbrellas, speakers, and most importantly: a chair. A solid chair is the key to longevity, a crucial aspect of a perfect beach day. I am someone who can sit on the beach from sunup (OK, let’s say 10 a.m.) to sundown (that’s about 5 or 6 p.m., BST).  I also live a block from the beach, so my life mainly consists of schlepping anywhere from two to five beach chairs from my house to the sand. Hooks meant for hanging chairs line the side of my house, a waterproof box contains a few more, and the rest lean stacked up against each other against the wall on my porch. I could have never imagined my life would one day involve so many beach chairs.What makes a good beach chair? My requirements are not unusual: I’m looking first for somewhere comfortable to sit. And comfort on the beach comes in many shapes and sizes, depending on what you prefer—taller folks enjoy being higher up, while the others may prefer reclining closer to the elements (which is, in this case, sand.) But there’s plenty we can agree on. I want a chair that doesn’t add to the beach heat by making me sweatier, one that reclines from straight up-and-down to alllll the way back. I want a chair that’s easy to set up, and even easier to take down. I want a chair that can handle extreme amounts of sand, but also the often-crippling elements of the beach: moisture and salt. I want a chair that can be tossed in the back of a car, thrown in a four-wheeled cart and even...god forbid...left outside overnight. I want a chair that I can carry across the sand with ease—while also dragging said cart behind me and a heavy cooler over one shoulder. And finally, I want a chair that looks good. Like, actually good. These are all the elements that make up a good beach chair. I’ve broken them down into simple categories, in order of importance:Portability Comfort Chicness Durability Why is portability at the top? Because it wouldn’t be a beach chair if it wasn’t first and foremost easy to schlep onto the beach. Then we’ll tackle comfort (recline me!), chicness (take my pic!) and lastly, durability (because the beach will destroy everything you own if you let it.) It’s time to fold up your Costco 2-for-1 Tommy Bahama beach chairs. You can do better. I’m not saying I don’t have love for a classic, but there’s a new generation of beach chairs that can do what Mr. Bahama does...and more.After calling in several samples, I took some of the new generation of beach chairs for a sit. I also let my picky beach-loving friends play musical chairs—they filled out surveys!—because why just take my word for it? Here’s what our highly scientific study found.The FavoritesShibumi ChairAfter years of searching for the holy grail of beach chairs the Shibumi Chair is here. A chair so comfortable you never want to get out of it, yet built so durable it will withstand years of hard lounging on salty beaches.I’m on the record as a fan of the Shibumi shade (although a recent weekend of low wind had me really struggling, even with the company’s patented "Wind Assist"), so I wasn’t surprised that the company has also developed a really nice beach chair. The Shibumi chair is shockingly light for its size, and comes with simple padded backstraps that make it very easy to tote around. (If you have multiple Shibumi chairs, there’s an additional "Two-Chair Clip" for purchase that allows you to sandwich them together so that you can carry two on your back at once.) There’s also a neoprene cupholder on one side and sleeve for your phone on the other—the former something I once thought was standard in beach chairs, but apparently is not.The chair sits at a nice height (although they also offer a "Tall chair" for longer-legged folks), and the springy mesh provides great breathability on a hot beach and is very comfortable. Maybe what impresses me the most, however, is the chair’s construction: It’s made with what they call an "Anti-Rust Marine Grade Frame," which does appear to hold up against the destructive sand and ocean air. You might be able to keep this thing outside and not have it fully disintegrate. (For now, I am storing it indoors.) Portability: 5 Durability: 5 Chicness: 3 Comfort: 4 Yeti Hondo Beach ChairBreathable, UV-resistant material supports up to 350 lbs without losing elasticity. Lightweight frame folds out quickly and packs down flat for easy carrying and storage. Multiple reclining positions and waterfall headrest offer maximum comfort and nap-ability.  I didn’t want to, but I kept coming back to Yeti’s Hondo beach chair. Why was I initially against it? It’s huge, for one thing. (It’s $300, for another.) But the Yeti Hondo is by far the most comfortable beach chair I’ve ever sat in. The chair’s mesh is breathable as mesh often is, but it’s also springy in a way that mesh often isn’t—allowing your body to sink into the seat in what can only be described as heavenly. (It sits at a good height, too.)It’s also extraordinarily durable for a beach chair, you can really toss it around: a tester plopped it in the sand at the shoreline and let the waves crash over her as she read. (It also very gracefully and intuitively folds open and shut.) The only issue? The Hondo isn’t light, and while it comes with a shoulder strap, it’s attached in a way that makes for an uncomfortable schlep. You can buy the matching backpack straps for an extra $30, but in my opinion they really should already come with a chair that’s priced this high and is this hefty. Portability: 2 Durability: 5 Chicness: 3 Comfort: 5 ITA Leisure Chair Bring your own leisure seat to the table.If there ever was a cooler beach chair than ITA’s Leisure chair, I have yet to see it. Endlessly photogenic, it comes in all-yellow (that’s the one I chose!) or your choice of white, orange, or twine webbing on a bright-white frame. This was the chair everyone wanted to sit in, for good reason: it’s chic as hell. It’s also sturdy, and should last if you keep it inside, which you might want to do anyway, as it would also look great as additional seating in your living room! (ITA also boasts that the chair is built with UV protection, so it won’t fade after long hours in the sun.) The chair is relatively light, but there’s no backpack carrying element—although ITA sells an oversize canvas bag the chair can fit into for an extra $70. Warning: this chair sits very low to the sand, so if that’s not your style, proceed with caution. (Many testers didn’t mind that.) Portability: 3 Durability: 4 Chicness: 5 Comfort: 4 The RestSunnyLife Luxe Beach Chair A premium option for those who spare no luxury, The Resort Luxe Beach Chair features a drink holder, an insulated zip-up cooler pocket and an adjustable padded headrest.SunnyLife does a nice job taking the standard beach chair rig and making it aesthetically pleasing. Other than its charming nautical stripes, their Luxe beach chair has a cupholder, cooler pocket, and padded headrest. It sits at a nice height, has multiple recline settings (and lies flat) and folds up easily into a portable backpack for easy transport. The arms are a solid oak, but this chair will certainly rust if kept outside (or even on a moist porch), as it’s constructed from coated aluminum. Portability: 5 Durability: 3 Chicness: 4 Comfort 3 Ostrich 3N1 Chair Ostrich 3N1 Chair Come out of the water and enjoy the quick dry fabric of the original Ostrich 3n1 chair! The bury your head face hole with easy reach arm holes make lying face down truly comfortable.Ostrich’s 3N1 chair is the only one amongst the bunch with a clever "face hole" (as well as arm holes) that make it easy to lie face down and read a novel (or look at your phone) while sunning your back. That means it can go from a standard, sit-up beach chair to a lie-flat beach lounger. And unlike other chairs, it has a flip-up footrest—although the one on our chair stopped locking into a flipped up position after just a few uses. The chair has nice breathable mesh, solid wood armrests, and comes with a carrying strap, but it’s pretty hefty with all the various foldouts, so it’s not the easiest to carry around. Its frame is built in aluminum, so it will undoubtedly rust if kept amongst the elements. Portability: 3 Durability: 2 Chicness: 2 Comfort: 4 Sunday Supply Co. Beach Chair Sunday Style Co. Beach ChairDesigned for comfort and style, this lightweight beach chair features a custom-designed, premium cushion slip in our Natural Instinct signature print. Easy folding and storage. Water & fade resistant. Includes carry strap and bag.  Low sitters will love the Sunday Supply chair, a simple but well-constructed beach chair that has you close to the ground, but seated upon a very comfy cushion. That’s perhaps not the most breathable fabric, but no testers complained, even during a particularly hot beach day. And the cushion is removable—because, while elegant (and coming in lots of different colors and patterns), it’s certainly not going to last long if kept outdoors. It’s also notable how light the chair is: it doesn’t need backpack straps, just a simple sling. Portability: 5 Durability: 3 Chicness: 4 Comfort: 4 Veer Beach Chair Veer Beach Chair Style meets all-day comfort with Veer’s Beach Chair. With a tall seat back and flip-up headrest for integrated head support, an extra-wide seat and a curved, elevated seat bottom, this chair cradles you from sunrise to sunset—no seat kinks in the wrong places and no awkward pressure points.Veer’s chair does from upright all the way to "lie-flat", although there’s no good way for your legs to rest, which can feel a bit awkward. But it also has four other reclines, sits at a nice height, and is made with sturdy breathable mesh. It also has an adjustable headrest (in lieu of a pillow), although most testers found it awkward (and unnecessary) to adjust it forward, so your best option is just straight up and down. (Which isn’t particularly uncomfortable, but why have it be adjustable at all?) They also include a removable cup holder that doesn’t really want to stay on. But the Veer’s backpack straps are smartly attached and easy to figure out, making the chair a cinch to port about, and the chair’s powder-coated frame is more durable than most beach chair options when battling sand and sea. Portability: 4 Durability: 5 Chicness: 3 Comfort: 4 The Beach Chair by Lido The Beach Chair by LidoOur patented chair and bag design makes going to the beach hassle-free.Lido takes the idea of a "backpack chair" to the next level—if you’re carrying this chair, you will not need an additional bag. The leather backpack attached to the Lido is cavernous, waterproof, and has all sorts of small zippered compartments. The chair also has the best version of a sturdy cupholder I’ve yet to see, and on the other arm is a clever "waterproof cell phone pocket wing" that lets you check your phone while keeping it safe from the elements. And while the Lido’s frame is quite sturdy and easy to recline, testers noted that the back of the chair digs into your neck (and there’s no accompanying pillow option). Also, after just a few uses, the pretty blue-striped fabric had already started to run and fade when faced with the elements. Portability: 5 Durability: 4 Chicness: 3 Comfort: 3 Shorebird Beach Chair Shorebird Beach Chair Designed for effortless comfort, wherever you go. With a Custom Recline System, Replaceable Fabric, Crossbar-Free Comfort, and Multiple Carry Options, the Shorebird Chair is built for seamless outdoor living.I’ve never seen a beach chair quite like the Shorebird before—in fact, I’ve never seen a regular chair like the Shorebird before, either. Perhaps more closely related to a sailboat, the Shorebird is crafted with marine-grade stainless-steel pulleys and recycled polyester rope (from old fishing nets!) that allows you to recline the chair up and down as if you’re hoisting a sail at sea. But even with its built-in backpack straps, this gorgeous chair (the frame is oil-coated teak!) might be better suited for a deck than it is for the beach. (At least, that’s where I plan to keep it.) Wherever you’re sitting, you’ll be sitting chic and extremely relaxed. Portability: 2 Durability:3 Chicness: 5 Comfort: 4 Business & Pleasure Tommy Chair Business & Pleasure Tommy ChairMeet our practical yet beautiful Tommy Chair. The Tommy Chair is designed to bring all the style and comfort you could want to the beach on your back! This 5 position reclining beach chair with large back zip pocket, armrests and soft touch outdoor canvas sling all folds up into a backpack.  Reminiscent of a Greek isle vacation, the Business & Pleasure Tommy chair is great for someone who prefers being high off the ground. The chair’s blue-and-white "umbrella canvas" is pretty comfy, and it reclines in five positions. There are pockets and backpack straps, making it easy to carry, even if it isn’t the lightest chair out there. And the reason it’s not light is because its frame is painted hardwood (so don’t leave it out in the rain—yes, even if the company says the wood is covered in weather-resistant coating.) Portability: 4 Durability: 4 Chicness:5 Comfort: 4 Max ID Sloth Chair Max ID Sloth ChairSloth Chair reflects the crescent shape of the waves and undulations of sand dunes with the ergonomics of the human body in mind for comfort.A beach chair made less for the beach and more for poolside, the wavy and woven Max ID Sloth chair demands attention—and "is actually more comfortable than it looks," said a tester, who proceeded to spend the entire day lounging atop it (and all while at the beach, proving me wrong!). You’ll be close to the ground on this thing, but looking good while doing so. And this chair feels like it’s meant to be stacked, so if you’re going to go big and spend almost $400 on the Sloth, you might as well buy a few. A single handle is the only way to carry it, but the chair itself is pretty light.Portability: 1 Durability: 2 Chicness: 5 Comfort: 3 We love the products we feature and hope you do, too. 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When is Labor Day 2025 Labor Day in 2025 falls on Monday, September 1. This date follows the tradition of celebrating the holiday on the first Monday of September each year. For many, it’s a welcome break before the start of the busy fall season. Families often plan short trips, cookouts, or last summer outings to make the most of the long weekend. When is Labor Day Weekend Labor Day weekend in 2025 runs from Saturday, August 30, through Monday, September 1. It’s the last big holiday weekend of summer and a chance for people to relax, travel, or shop holiday sales. Many towns and cities host events like parades, fairs, and outdoor concerts, making it a festive close to the season. What is Labor Day Labor Day is a celebration of the American workforce and its achievements. It began in the late 19th century as part of the labor movement, recognizing the contributions of workers in building the country. The day is often filled with parades, family barbecues, and local festivals. Beyond the fun, it’s a reminder of the progress made in workers’ rights and fair labor practices. Find Out: How to Plan a Memorable Labor Day Weekend Is Labor Day a Federal Holiday Yes. Labor Day is a federal holiday in the United States, recognized by the federal government and observed in all states. This means non-essential government offices are closed, along with many schools and public institutions. It’s also a day when certain businesses reduce hours or close completely, so planning ahead is important. Is the Post Office Open on Labor Day No. All USPS post offices are closed on Labor Day, and there is no standard mail delivery or pickup service. If you need to send mail, you’ll have to wait until the next business day. Some self-service kiosks may still be available inside certain post office lobbies. Are Banks Open on Labor Day No. Most banks close their branches on Labor Day as it is a federal holiday. While in-person services won’t be available, customers can still use ATMs, mobile banking apps, and online banking for transactions. Planning cash withdrawals or in-person banking ahead of time is a smart idea. Is UPS Open on Labor Day No. UPS does not operate standard pickup or delivery services on Labor Day. Only limited critical services may run in certain areas. UPS Store locations may also be closed or have shortened hours, so checking ahead is recommended. What Stores Are Open on Labor Day While some retailers close for Labor Day, many large chain stores remain open to serve customers. Shoppers can expect sales on home goods, clothing, electronics, and seasonal items. Store hours can vary by location, so it’s always wise to check with your local branch before visiting. All Cotton and Linen is offering special Labor Day discounts on a variety of home and wardrobe essentials. Shoppers can find table linens, kitchen towels, bath towels, and reusable grocery bags at reduced prices.  The collection also includes women’s tops and beautiful jewelry, giving you plenty of options for refreshing your home and style. These holiday deals make it easy to pick up useful, stylish, and budget-friendly items all in one place. Is Costco Open on Labor Day No. All Costco warehouses across the U.S. are closed on Labor Day. If you need bulk shopping, plan your trip before the holiday to avoid disappointment. Is Chick-fil-A Open on Labor Day Yes. Most Chick-fil-A locations are open on Labor Day, but many operate with reduced hours. Checking the Chick-fil-A app or calling ahead will help you confirm when your local restaurant is serving. Is Walmart Open on Labor Day Yes. Walmart stores remain open with their regular hours, typically from 6 a.m. to 11 p.m. The retailer also runs Labor Day sales both in-store and online, making it a popular stop for holiday shoppers. Is Hobby Lobby Open on Labor Day Yes. Hobby Lobby stores are open, though individual store hours may vary. The store often runs craft and home décor sales during the holiday, making it a good time to shop for seasonal items. Is Target Open on Labor Day Yes. Target stores are open on Labor Day and may have special promotions. Since hours can differ by location, checking the Target app or website before heading out is a good idea. Is Home Depot Open on Labor Day Yes. Home Depot is open and often features Labor Day sales on tools, appliances, and seasonal items. Many shoppers take advantage of the day off to start or finish home improvement projects. Is Trader Joe’s Open on Labor Day Yes. Trader Joe’s stores are open with their regular hours. If you’re hosting a barbecue or picnic, it’s a convenient stop for snacks, beverages, and fresh produce. Is Sam’s Club Open on Labor Day Yes. Sam’s Club is open with reduced hours — Plus members can shop from 8 a.m. to 6 p.m., while Club members can shop from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. This makes it a good day to stock up on groceries and household items. Is Publix Open on Labor Day Yes. Publix stores stay open during normal hours. It’s a convenient option for last-minute grocery runs before hosting friends or family. Is Goodwill Open on Labor Day Yes. Goodwill stores are open from 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. The holiday can be a good time to shop for second-hand treasures or make donations. Is Starbucks Open on Labor Day Yes. Most Starbucks locations are open on Labor Day, though hours can vary. Many people grab their favorite coffee before heading out for parades, sales, or road trips. Know About: How to Create Stunning Labor Day Table Decorations for 2025 Groceries Open on Labor Day Store Hours (Typical) Walmart 6 a.m. – 11 p.m. Kroger Regular hours, varies by location Target Varies by location Trader Joe’s Regular hours Sam’s Club Plus: 8 a.m. – 6 p.m., Club: 10 a.m. – 6 p.m. Restaurants Open on Labor Day Many restaurant chains stay open on Labor Day to serve travelers and families. Options include Applebee’s, Burger King, Chick-fil-A, Chipotle, Denny’s, Domino’s, Dunkin’, IHOP, KFC, McDonald’s, Olive Garden, Panera Bread, Pizza Hut, Starbucks, Taco Bell, Waffle House, and Wendy’s. Since hours vary by location, calling ahead is recommended. Read More: Why Can't You Wear White After Labor Day What is Closed on Labor Day 2025 Several businesses close on Labor Day, including federal offices, post offices, and most banks. UPS and FedEx standard delivery services pause for the day. Costco warehouses shut down entirely. Many schools and some small businesses also close, giving employees a well-deserved break. Source link

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Here on my blog, I strive to share simple, everyday tips and tricks that can help make life a little bit easier. But sometimes, the tips that I want to share aren’t something I can write a whole blog post about, so I tuck them away to use at a later date. I’ve built up quite a catalog of these life hacks, so I decided to share a couple dozen of them today! Enjoy the first installment in the “Why Didn’t I Think of That?” series. Be sure to scroll down to see some of these brilliant hacks in action on video! 1. Remove Strawberry Tops With A Straw Use a drinking straw to quickly remove hulls from strawberries. This will save you a lot of time when using fresh strawberries in your baked goods or homemade strawberry ice cream! It’s not just for eggs! 2. Slice More Than Just Eggs In addition to slicing hard-boiled eggs, an egg slicer is a perfect tool for slicing other soft fruits and veggies too, like mushrooms and strawberries. 3. Prevent Cutting Boards From Slipping If your cutting board tends to move around on your countertop when you’re using it, place a damp towel underneath it. This will provide enough resistance to keep it from sliding, and you’ll be much less likely to have a knife mishap! 4. Keep Wastebasket Liners In Place I love reusing plastic grocery bags as liners in my smaller trash cans, but I hate when the handles slip down into the can, making it hard to get out. A simple fix is to place small removable hooks upside down on opposite sides of the can. Just slip the bag handles under the hooks, and the problem is solved! Common trash can annoyance solved! 5. Snap A Photo Of Your Fridge I can’t tell you how many times I’ve had to call home while at the grocery store to ask my husband or kids how much milk we had in the fridge because I forgot to check before I left. Now when I’m heading to the store, I stop and snap a photo inside of my fridge so I can refer to it while I’m shopping. Two is better than one. 6. Connect Hangers With A Soda Can Tab You can use an aluminum tab from a can of soda to create tiered hangers. Not only does using tiered hangers save on precious closet space, but it’s also handy for keeping outfits together. 7. Turn An Empty Bottle Into A Charging Station You can use an empty oval-shaped bottle (like a baby shampoo bottle or similar) to make a convenient charging cradle for your devices. Use a utility knife or craft knife to cut a straight line across the front side of the bottle, then cut around to the back so that the back side is an inch or two taller than the front. Cut a hole near the top of the back side of the bottle. Finally, plug your phone in, hang your cradle on the charger, and place your device inside. Easy! 8. Clip Recipes To A Hanger Hold your cookbook open to the correct page by hanging it from a clip-style hanger. It’s also a great way to keep a printed recipe closer to your eye level (and away from spills and splatters) while cooking. It’s surprising how much this helps when you are trying to follow a recipe with lots of different steps. Never struggle with a tape roll again! 9. Stick A Bread Tab To The End Of Your Tape Use the plastic tab from a loaf of bread to mark the end of a roll of tape. No more hunting for the end, or struggling to get it unstuck! Keyboards collect a lot of dust and crumbs, but a sticky note can help! 10. Clean Keyboards With A Sticky Note If your keyboard keys are looking a bit dusty and grungy, all you need is a sticky note! Press the sticky side in between your keys to pick up dust and crumbs easily. 11. Keep Cords In A Glasses Case Carrying around cords can turn into a tangled nightmare. Keep your cords organized and easy to find by storing them in a spare glasses case. (Looking for a way to keep your cords neatly coiled? Try a small hair clip!) I’m sure we all have at least one unused glasses case lying around the house. 12. Protect Photos & Documents In Transit If you’re transporting important photos or documents and are concerned about them getting bent or wrinkled, just place them in a large plastic baggie with a piece of cardboard or a paper plate to keep the bag sturdy. 13. Stop Toilet Paper From Unrolling Tuck the end of the toilet paper roll inside the cardboard tube to keep pets and kids from unrolling them. It only takes a second! An ingenious way to save your plastic grocery bags! 14. Make A Pop-Up Grocery Bag Dispenser Make a pop-up dispenser for your plastic grocery bags by storing them in a tissue box. Before putting a bag in, thread the bottom of the bag through the handles of the previous bag. This will make them pop up just like tissues. You might have to watch this a couple of times, but you’ll catch on quickly! Save those old dried-up markers! 15. Turn Old Markers Into New Crafts Make watercolors out of old washable markers by placing them upside down in a bit of water with the cap off. The color will mix into the water, making some fun watercolor paints for the kids. 16. Test Your Eggs For Freshness How fresh are your eggs? Find out by putting them in a bowl of water. Fresh eggs will sink to the bottom, old eggs will float, and eggs that are in-between will stand up on their ends. Never guess if those eggs are fresh again. 17. Use Sunglasses As A Phone Stand If you’re referencing something on your phone, it can be hard to see when it’s lying flat on a table. Make a simple kickstand for your phone by placing it on a pair of sunglasses. This is a lifesaver when my hands get tired. 18. Use Nail Polish To Color Code Your Keys Make your keys easily identifiable by painting the ends with different colors of nail polish. This is very useful when a lot of your keys look the same! 19. Don’t Waste A Drop Of Nutella Got a nearly empty container of Nutella on hand? Get one last treat out of it by placing a scoop of ice cream inside, and eating it out of the container. Yum! Because wasting even a drop of this chocolatey goodness is a crying shame! 😭 20. Take A Photo When A Friend Borrows A Book I’m always happy to lend things to friends, but I’m not great at keeping track of who has what. An easy way to keep track is to snap a photo of your friend with the item they’re borrowing. You can also just keep a note on your phone with their name and the item. 21. Carry More Bags With A Carabiner Make it easier to get all the grocery bags in the house in one trip by using a carabiner. Slide the bag handles onto the carabiner, and you’ll be able to carry several bags at once! As someone who tries to make as few trips as possible when unloading groceries, this tip is priceless. 22. Add Accented Letters To Passwords A simple way to create a stronger password is to add a letter with an accent mark. It’s easy to type on your devices, just hold down the letter and the accent options will pop up. Nothing to steal here! 23. Hide Your Stuff In Plain Sight Going to the beach or the pool this summer? A lot of people aren’t careful about their valuables while they’re in the water, and someone may walk off with them! But you can easily “camouflage” your valuables by storing them inside an everyday item like a large sunscreen bottle. Just cut part of the container off, wash it out, place your items inside, and slide the bottle back together. The “Why Didn’t I Think Of That?” Series Source link

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Hi GPODers! Maxine Brisport in Rotterdam, New York, is back with another summer garden update. Maxine has shared her vibrant garden many times over the years (Small Garden Guests in Maxine’s Garden, Hot-Season Flowers in Maxine’s Garden, and Blooms in Maxine’s Garden—just to name a few), but most recently she sent some highlights from the start of the peak season (Early Summer in Maxine’s New York Garden, Part 1 and Part 2). Today she is back to showcase the abundance that unfolds in the heat of midsummer. Our midsummer garden is a vibrant tapestry, a kaleidoscope of colors that erupts in every direction. Bright yellow cup plants stand tall, their cheerful faces attracting buzzing bees and fluttering butterflies. The sweet, heady perfume of roses mingles with the subtle scent of the lilies, creating an intoxicating aroma that fills the air. The gentle rustle of leaves in the breeze, accompanied by the chirping of birds, forms a natural soundtrack that enhances the peaceful ambiance. Every corner of the garden is overflowing with life, a testament to the abundance and joy of summer. Thank you,Maxine Brisport This photo epitomizes what Maxine calls a “kaleidoscope of colors.” Diverse foliage mixes and melds together, while a gorgeous array of pink, white, and yellow blooms adds layers of brightness. Not to be underestimated, leaves can also add some bold hues to a peak-season garden. This moody, black foliage appears to be that of a ‘Hillside Black Beauty’ black snakeroot (Cimicifuga ramosa ‘Hillside Black Beauty’, Zones 6–9). If so, later in the summer this plant will produce tall spires of fluffy white flowers. In another part of the garden, the bright white blooms of a ‘Casa Blanca’ lily (Lilium ‘Casa Blanca’, Zones 5–8) glow with some baby blue bigleaf hydrangea blooms (Hydrangea macrophylla, Zones 6–9). More hydrangeas, this time the panicle form (Hydrangea paniculata, Zones 3–8), created a flurry of white flowers in front of bright red bursts of bee balm. On the opposite side of the strawberry red bee balm, these light pink lilies are covered in big blossoms. In a few months, red and green decor will signal the start of the holiday season, but right now these colors celebrate the heat of summer. Rich green foliage marries wonderfully with the bright blooms of ‘Lucifer’ crocosmia (Crocosmia ‘Lucifer’, Zones 6–9). To keep the hot hues going, ‘Pieton’ lily (Lilium ‘Pieton’, Zones 3–8) and Shasta daisies (Leucanthemum × superbum, Zones 5–9) make for a cheerful combination in front of the golden foliage of a ‘White Gold’ bleeding heart (Lamprocapnos spectabilis ‘Tndicwg’, Zones 4–8). I absolutely adore that Maxine includes as many colors as possible in her garden. She hits every color in the rainbow, from the brightest reds to the vibrant purple of this Stokes’ aster (Stokesia laevis, Zones 5–9). Lastly, alongside that Stokes’ aster is more bee balm to attract even more pollinators. This cultivar has produced an incredible number of blooms this year in a lovely shade of pink. Just as she did for her early summer submission, Maxine sent a plethora of lovely scenes from her garden in midsummer. Check back in with Garden Photo of the Day tomorrow as we return to Rotterdam to see more!   We want to see YOUR garden! Have photos to share? We’d love to see your garden, a particular collection of plants you love, or a wonderful garden you had the chance to visit! To submit, send 5–10 photos to [email protected] along with some information about the plants in the pictures and where you took the photos. We’d love to hear where you are located, how long you’ve been gardening, successes you are proud of, failures you learned from, hopes for the future, favorite plants, or funny stories from your garden. Have a mobile phone? Tag your photos on Facebook, Instagram, or Twitter with #FineGardening! Do you receive the GPOD by email yet? Sign up here Fine Gardening Recommended Products Monarch Butterfly Rescue Wildflower Seeds 4 oz. Fine Gardening receives a commission for items purchased through links on this site, including Amazon Associates and other affiliate advertising programs. HIGH QUALITY SEEDS and EXPERT GUIDANCE: Experience the quality seed difference. We are committed to providing the highest quality, open-pollinated, non-GMO/non-GE seeds to our customers, guaranteed. A trusted source of high quality seeds since 1985. ATTRACT MORE MONARCHS: We know seeds and we know pollinators! Our expertly crafted botanical garden seed mixes contain a wide variety of both perennials and annuals that are specifically designed to attract pollinators. Attract more Monarchs and Butterflies in general. Gardener tested, pollinator approved! All Of Our Wildflower Varieties Are 100% Pure Seed, They come with complete planting instructions. Compare and see the quality value. This Wildflower Seed Mix will make the perfect gift for those gardeners in your life. Lee Valley Garden Obelisks Fine Gardening receives a commission for items purchased through links on this site, including Amazon Associates and other affiliate advertising programs. Sturdy yet lightweight, these obelisks provide ample support for climbing plants while being easy to install and move. The medium obelisk stands 68 1/2" high overall with a diameter of about 9 1/2", compact enough for smaller containers indoors or out. The large size stands 86 1/2" high with a diameter of 15 3/4", ideal for larger outdoor spaces and containers. Morvat Heavy Duty Brass Y-Valve Fine Gardening receives a commission for items purchased through links on this site, including Amazon Associates and other affiliate advertising programs. - Instantly create two tap outlets with this ultra-durable Y hose splitter. The dual-valve design features built-in shut-off valves. - Fitted with US Standard NH 3/4" threads for use with most water source fittings - Screw the 2 way splitter adapter by hand or wrench with the updated hexagonal top connection. The 360° rotatable swivel connection attaches to any water source. Source link

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If you’re lucky enough to have a patio, balcony, or any kind of backyard space, the best outdoor lights will let you enjoy the fresh air around the clock. That said, beyond aesthetics, functionality has to be a top priority. There’s no point in picking out something that’s not durable, or anything that will get weathered with use. You want decorative lighting solutions that last and can illuminate an area in ways you’ve never thought of before—whether with delicate deck lights or subtle chandeliers that work in any space (sorry, you won’t find any flood lights here).An elevated outdoor lighting arrangement is also a thoughtful way to enhance curb appeal around the front door and lets you set the tone with your preferred color temperature. Ahead, you’ll find top-notch design tips and lighting ideas (above all, watch your wattage) from hospitality entrepreneurs who have completely reimagined outdoor spots at their respective properties.Featured in this articleBest String LightsPottery Barn Lit Jute Wrapped Orbs GarlandRead moreBest Solar LightsSanjicha Extra-Long Solar String LightsRead moreBest Pendant LampSerena & Lily Pacifica Outdoor PendantRead moreThe simpler the betterWhen it comes to outdoor lights, less is more. Since nature is the reason you’re out there, choose accent lighting such as some simple LED string lights that highlight the scenery and don’t dominate the ambiance around it. “My basic lighting strategy has been quite simple: Get out of the way,” Ram’s Head Inn owner Aandrea Carter tells AD. “More nature has afforded us an amazing view and naturally sloping grounds, so we’ve chosen lighting with the simple goal of not the presence of light, but the absence of darkness.”Sanjicha Extra-Long Solar String LightsAmazon is full of very versatile landscape lighting options—like these best-selling string lights that have over 6,000 five-star reviews and come in seven different colors. West Elm Simple String LightsElevate any outdoor festivity with these elegant frosted bulbs. The brushed gold accents add a slightly more refined look to the silhouette and will really accentuate the overall glow of each bulb.

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Asparagus is at the top of our list of spring produce—and it's probably your favorite, too. Knowing how to cook asparagus is important if you want to enjoy all that the vegetable has to offer. April and May are peak season for the bright green stalks, and while you can generally find them during other times of the year, they are at their sweetest and most tender in the spring.  One of the reasons we love asparagus so much is that it’s incredibly versatile. It adds a pop of green color to a one-pot pasta and brightens an indulgent casserole. It can even be enjoyed raw in salads and grain bowls. However, we use asparagus most as a quick and easy dinner side dish. But don't worry—we never get in a rut because we use all 10 of these ways to cook it. How to Prepare Asparagus Before it can be cooked, asparagus needs to be prepped. The good news it's super simple. All you have to do is rinse the spears and trim the ends, which can be fibrous and tough to chew, even when cooked.  Start by holding one asparagus spear from the bunch and bending it toward the bottom third. The tough end should snap right off. Once you have an idea of where they need to be trimmed, line up the remaining asparagus spears and use a knife to trim off their ends. Ways to Cook Asparagus You'll want to try all of them but yes, you will have favorites! Roast Roasting is one of the most popular ways to cook asparagus—and in our opinion, it’s also one of the best ways. This is especially true if you’re already using the oven for another part of the meal. Other bonuses: Roasting requires minimal ingredients and is almost entirely hands-off. Asparagus can roast at super high temperatures (425 degrees Fahrenheit or so) or more moderate temperatures (around 375 degrees), making roasting one of the easiest ways to cook this spring vegetable.  How to Roast Asparagus  Preheat the oven: An ideal temperature is between 375-400 degrees, but asparagus can adapt to both lower and higher temperatures as needed. Season the asparagus: Toss the asparagus spears with a good glug of olive oil and season with salt, pepper, and any dried herbs and spices you like. Arrange the spears in an even layer on a rimmed baking sheet. Cook: Roast the asparagus until tender and browned in places. At 400 degrees, this should take around 15 minutes total. Flip the spears once halfway through. Don’t overcrowd the pan when roasting asparagus. As a rule of thumb, use one standard-sized rimmed baking sheet for each pound of asparagus. Steam We rate steaming as one of the best ways to cook asparagus; it's right up there with roasting. This gentle cooking technique allows the flavor of the asparagus to really shine through. It also absorbs whatever flavors are trapped inside the steaming system, so in addition to the mandatory salt, consider adding a few crushed garlic cloves or fresh herb stems to the pan.  How to Steam Asparagus  Bring the water to a simmer: Choose a wide, shallow pan and place a steamer basket inside. Add at least 1 inch of water to the pan and bring to a gentle simmer.  Salt the water: Add one or two generous pinches of salt to the water.  Cook: Lay the asparagus onto the steamer basket in an even layer, then cover the pan with a tight-fitting lid. Allow to steam just until tender, 5 to 10 minutes, depending on the thickness of the spears. Pro tip: keep the water at a steady simmer the entire time—this might require adjusting the temperature from time to time. Blanch The blanching technique cooks asparagus very quickly. Blanching essentially is boiling the vegetable for a very short amount of time and then dunking it into a bowl of ice water to stop the cooking process. Spears can be blanched and served with a simple squeeze of lemon or a drizzle of hollandaise sauce.  How to Boil Asparagus  Bring a pot of water to a boil: Choose a pot that is large enough to accommodate all the asparagus you have, giving the spears some room to float around. Bring the water to a rolling boi.  Salt the water: Just as with pasta water, it is important to salt the blanching liquid. Use about 2 tablespoons of kosher salt per gallon of water.  Cook: Add the asparagus to the boiling water and give it a stir. Cook for 1-2 minutes, depending on the thickness of the spears.  Drain and shock: Drain the water and transfer the asparagus to a bowl of clean ice water, ensuring that they remain submerged. When they are cool, drain again. Asparagus can also be added to boiling pasta during the last few minutes of cooking before draining everything together. This skips the ice-water step so it’s technically boiling instead of blanching, but we won’t tell. Sauté After roasting, sautéeing is the next easiest way to cook asparagus. It's a simple technique and a good one to use when you need to cook the spears quickly and without much hassle. All that’s needed is a skillet, some olive oil, and a pinch of salt. A little something acidic at the end, like a squeeze of fresh lemon juice, never hurts.  How to Sauté Asparagus Heat the oil: Start by warming a splash of olive or neutral vegetable oil in a skillet over medium to medium-high heat. Choose a pan that can comfortably fit all of the asparagus without crowding, especially if leaving the asparagus spears whole. Add everything to the skillet: Once the oil is hot, add the asparagus and seasonings to the skillet, tossing to coat them in the oil. Cook: Sauté, stirring occasionally with a wooden spoon or spatula, until the asparagus is fork-tender. This takes around 10 minutes, depending on if the asparagus spears are whole or cut into smaller planks. Grill When the weather is nice, grilling is a great way to enjoy asparagus. Just as with roasting or sautéeing, grilling asparagus requires minimal pantry ingredients—just be sure to have some olive oil, salt, and pepper on hand. It's also fast, grilling asparagus takes less than 5 minutes, so it can come in handy when you realize you need a side for your cookout.  Enjoy grilled asparagus dressed with a simple vinaigrette or chop the spears into bite-sized pieces and add to pasta salad or grain salads.  How to Grill Asparagus  Heat the grill for direct heat: Whether using a gas, charcoal grill, or indoor grill pan, start by preheating for direct heat cooking. Once heated, brush the grates with a light coating of oil to prevent sticking. Prep the asparagus: Drizzle the asparagus spears very lightly with oil and season with salt, pepper, and other seasonings, if desired. Cook: Toss the asparagus onto the grill and cook for 3 to 4 minutes, tossing once or twice, until tender and charred all over. Stew Stewing is a cooking technique that combines both wet and dry methods. Think of it as a halfway point between sautéeing and blanching. The vegetable isn’t fully submerged in water, but it does have plenty of liquid to keep it from drying out. Asparagus can be stewed super simply with just some water and seasonings, but it’s nice when paired with a saucy tomato mixture as well.  How to Stew Sauté the asparagus: Start by sautéeing the asparagus for just 1 minute. Add the liquid: Add enough water, broth, or tomato sauce to the pan to cover about one-third of the asparagus. Bring the mixture to a simmer. Cook: Pop a lid on the pan, but leave it askew so some steam can escape. Cook until the asparagus is tender and the liquid has mostly absorbed—less than 5 minutes. Asparagus will stew much more quickly than a heartier food such as meat or beans, but it will still absorb plenty of good flavor in its short cook time. Finish with butter (optional): If there’s too much liquid left in the pan, remove the lid, add a pat of butter, and let the liquid simmer and evaporate. The remaining butter will leave the asparagus nicely glazed. The woody ends of asparagus tend to be quite fibrous. If you find yourself with particularly thick stalks, use a vegetable peeler to remove a layer from the bulkiest bits at the base. Broil Chris Simpson Broiling will yield tender asparagus spears with a nice char—and it takes mere minutes. It's a great technique to use with sheet-pan meals. Simply add the asparagus to the pan during the last few minutes of cooking and pop it under the broiler.  How to Broil Asparagus  Preheat the broiler: Place the broiler on high heat and carefully adjust an oven rack so that it sits about 6 inches below the heating element. Season the asparagus: Toss the asparagus with a glug of olive oil and season with salt, pepper, and whatever other spices you like. Arrange the spears in an even layer on a rimmed baking sheet. Cook: Broil the asparagus for 8 to 12 minutes, flipping the spears once halfway through, until tender and charred. Microwave The microwave is good for more than reheating leftovers. It’s actually a great way to cook vegetables, including asparagus—and it’s by far the fastest technique. As it creates plenty of steam, microwaved vegetables are tender and moist.  How to Microwave Asparagus  Place the asparagus on a microwave-safe plate: Arrange the asparagus in a mostly even layer on a microwave-safe plate. Season and cover: Sprinkle the spears with a pinch of salt, then cover completely with a damp paper towel. This will keep the asparagus from drying out. Cook: Microwave on high heat until crisp-tender. This should take 3 to 4 minutes per pound of asparagus. Air-Fry Air-fried asparagus is similar to roasted asparagus but slightly crispier. It's a hands-off technique is that is especially nice if the oven and stovetop are full with other dishes.  How to Air Fry Asparagus  Preheat the air-fryer: Heat the air-fryer to 390 degrees and let it warm up while you prep the asparagus. Season the asparagus: You don’t need much fat when using the air-fryer. Toss the spears with a very light splash of oil or spritz them a few times with cooking spray. Be sure to season with salt and pepper. Cook: Spread the asparagus in the air fryer basket and place it in the air fryer. Cook for about 10 minutes, shaking the basket a few times during the cooking until the asparagus is tender and slightly crunchy. Make sure the asparagus is completely dry before it goes into the air-fryer. Excess moisture will create steam and prevent the asparagus from crisping up properly. Stir-Fry Jake Sternquist Stir-frying is one of the most popular quick-cooking techniques, and we love it for so many vegetables, not only asparagus. Stir-frying is similar to sautéeing, but everything happens much faster because it’s done at a very high heat. It’s best to cut the asparagus into smaller bite-sized pieces for this technique rather than using whole stalks.  How to Stir-Fry Asparagus  Heat the pan or wok: The pan needs to be ripping hot. Once you see steam coming off the surface, you know it’s ready. Add the oil and asparagus: Swirl in a small splash of vegetable oil (it has a higher smoke point than olive oil) and add the asparagus. Cook: Fry the spears for 3 to 5 minutes, stirring frequently, until tender and browned in places. If you’re using other vegetables in the stir-fry, add everything at the same time—just make sure they are all cut into similar-sized pieces so they cook evenly. Add other seasonings, like grated garlic, ginger, sesame seeds, or soy sauce, during the last few seconds of cooking. Source link

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Not just to beautify your garden, you can use Dahlias as cut flowers to improve aesthetics of your living space. You can grow Dalias easily by dividing tubers, but the number of plants you can propagate through this method depends on the tubers your plant produced during previous year. Instead, you can propagate Dahlias through cuttings to get exact replica of parent plant. Growing from cuttings also allows you to propagate any number of plants with few tubers. Everyone can’t buy tubers to grow dahlias, as they are expensive. Propagating through cuttings allows a new gardener to experience the joy of growing a whole plant at a fraction of the cost of buying new tubers. In this write-up you’ll learn two ways of stem cuttings that you can use to grow your own Dahlias. At the end, you’ll also get a brief info on how to propagate from division method. Before that let’s understand more about the growing requirements of the plant and why it’s important to propagate through stem cuttings. There are two methods to stem cuttings that you can use to grow your dahlias. Choose a healthy mother plant and cut it’s stem just below a node. Remove lower leaves and dip it in rooting hormone. Insert the stem cutting in a potting soil mix and wait for 2-3 weeks to see root form. Second way is to Start with a well-established tuber planted shallowly so its top peeks out. After stems develop, cut at the stem–tuber junction, keeping a small tuber “heel.” Plant in pre-moistened, well-drained medium; maintain high humidity, bright indirect light. Once rooted, pot on and acclimatize. Growing Requirements of Dahlias Dahlias prefers full sun—aim for at least 6–8 hours daily—and grow best in warm conditions with soil around 60–70F. In very hot climates, give light afternoon shade to prevent stress and reduced flowering. Plant in well‑drained soil that’s slightly acidic to neutral (about pH 6–7) and avoid overwatering before shoots emerge to prevent rot. Once growing, water deeply to keep soil evenly moist, and use mulch 2–3 inches thick to cool shallow feeder roots and retain moisture. Fertilize modestly with blends lower in nitrogen and higher in phosphorus and potassium to encourage blooms over foliage. Space plants for airflow, stake taller varieties early, and consider shade cloth or occasional misting during extreme heat to keep plants productive. Choose a sunny, wind‑protected site with at least morning light for best results. In consistently hot regions, strategies like afternoon shade, mulching, and regular feeding help dahlias continue to flower through heat spells. Benefits of Propagating Dahlias through Cuttings Propagating dahlias from cuttings lets you multiply plants quickly from a single tuber, saving money and space. Because cuttings are clones, they keep the exact flower color, form, and habit of the parent. Cuttings often root fast and establish earlier than divisions, leading to stronger plants and earlier blooms. It also preserves the original tuber, which can keep producing more shoots. This method protects rare or expensive varieties by reducing the risk of losing them in storage. It’s easy to do indoors with simple tools, making it great for sharing or producing uniform plants. How to Grow or Propagate Dahlias from Cuttings? As mentioned most gardeners rely on purchasing new tubers each season, propagating dahlias from stem cuttings offers an economical and rewarding way to multiply your favorite varieties. To have successful dahlia propagation your parent plant should exhibit show no signs of pest damage or disease. The mother plant should exhibit strong, robust stems with healthy foliage. Method 1: Simple Stem Cuttings Simple stem cutting is the most accessible and widely-used method for propagating dahlias. This technique involves taking a portion of stem that contains at least one node and encouraging it to develop its own root system. While straightforward in concept, success depends heavily on attention to detail and proper technique throughout the process. Essential Tools Sharp, clean secateurs or pruning shears: Blade sharpness is crucial for making clean cuts that heal quickly. Dull blades can crush stem tissue, creating entry points for pathogens. Isopropyl alcohol (70%): For sterilizing cutting tools between plants to prevent disease transmission. Clean cloth or paper towels: For wiping tools during the sterilization process Rooting hormone: Available in powder, gel, or liquid forms. Powder formulations often provide longest shelf life, while gels adhere better to stems. High-quality rooting medium: Options include fine coir, perlite-vermiculite mix, seed-starting compost, or specialized cutting compost. The medium must retain moisture while providing excellent drainage. Small containers: 3-4 inch pots work well, or use propagation trays with individual cells. Step-by-Step Process 1. Timing and Plant Selection Optimal Timing The best time for taking dahlia cuttings is during active growth periods, typically from late spring through mid-summer. Early morning is ideal when plants are fully hydrated from overnight moisture recovery. Selecting Cutting Material Choose stems that are neither too soft (which may rot) nor too woody (which root slowly) Look for stems with 3-4 nodes and healthy, vibrant foliage Avoid flowering stems as they direct energy toward bloom production rather than root development Select stems that are approximately pencil thickness for optimal rooting potential 2. Taking the Perfect Cutting Cutting Technique Make your cut approximately ¼ inch below a node using a single, swift motion The ideal cutting length is 4-6 inches, ensuring you have at least 2-3 nodes Cut at a slight angle to increase the surface area available for root development Take cuttings during cooler parts of the day to minimize stress Node IdentificationNodes appear as slight swellings on the stem where leaves emerge. These areas contain concentrated meristematic tissue—undifferentiated cells capable of developing into roots. The area just below a node contains the highest concentration of root-promoting hormones. 3. Advanced Cutting Preparation Leaf Management Strategy Remove all leaves from the lower half of the cutting to prevent rot and reduce moisture loss For remaining upper leaves, cut them in half horizontally to reduce transpiration while maintaining some photosynthetic capacity Make clean cuts on leaf removal to avoid tearing that could invite disease Leave at least one complete node with growing tip intact at the top Wound Treatment Allow the cut surface to air dry for 10-15 minutes to form a slight callus This brief drying period helps prevent rot when the cutting is inserted into moist medium In humid conditions, extend this drying time slightly 4. Rooting Hormone Application Hormone Selection and Application Choose a rooting hormone appropriate for softwood cuttings (typically 0.1-0.3% IBA concentration) Dip only the bottom ½ inch of the stem into powder hormone, tapping off excess For gel formulations, apply a thin, even coating to the cut surface Avoid over-application, which can actually inhibit rooting Natural Alternatives Willow water: Soak willow twigs in water for 24 hours to create natural rooting hormone Honey solution: Mix one tablespoon honey with two cups warm water for natural antimicrobial properties Cinnamon powder: Can be dusted on cuts for its antifungal properties 5. Planting Medium and Container Setup Medium Preparation Pre-moisten your chosen medium until it feels like a wrung-out sponge Fill containers, leaving about ½ inch from the rim Create planting holes using a pencil or dibber to avoid damaging the cutting when inserting Ensure drainage holes are clear and functional Planting Depth and Spacing Insert cuttings deep enough to cover at least one complete node Firm medium gently around the cutting to eliminate air pockets Space multiple cuttings to allow air circulation between them Plant at the same depth the cutting will eventually grow, avoiding too-deep placement 6. Creating Optimal Environmental Conditions Humidity Management Cover containers with clear plastic to maintain 80-90% humidity Ensure covers don’t touch the cuttings to prevent fungal issues Create ventilation holes if condensation becomes excessive Mist cuttings lightly if humidity levels drop Temperature Control Maintain consistent temperatures between 65-75°F (18-24°C) Bottom heat can accelerate rooting—use heating mats set to 70°F Avoid temperature fluctuations which stress developing roots Monitor with a min/max thermometer to track conditions Light Requirements Provide bright, indirect light equivalent to what you’d find under a tree canopy Avoid direct sunlight which can overheat and stress cuttings Fluorescent lights placed 12-18 inches above cuttings work well for indoor propagation Maintain 12-14 hour photoperiods for optimal results 7. Monitoring and Maintenance Daily Care Routine Check moisture levels daily, watering when the surface begins to dry Remove any fallen leaves or debris that could harbor disease Monitor for signs of fungal problems such as gray mold or black stem rot Gradually reduce humidity as roots develop by opening ventilation Signs of Success New growth at the tip typically indicates successful root development Gentle resistance when lightly tugging the cutting suggests root formation Fresh, healthy leaf color and firm stem texture are positive indicators Root development usually begins 10-21 days after planting, varying by variety and conditions 8. Troubleshooting Common Problems Cutting Failure Issues Wilting: Usually indicates insufficient humidity or overwatering Blackened stems: Often caused by fungal rot from excessive moisture or poor air circulation No root development: May indicate old cutting material, incorrect temperature, or poor hormone application Leaf yellowing: Normal for lower leaves, concerning if affecting all foliage Recovery Strategies For minor wilting, increase humidity and reduce light intensity temporarily Remove affected plant material immediately to prevent spread of problems Adjust watering frequency based on environmental conditions Consider re-taking cuttings from fresh material if problems persist Method 2: Stem-and-Tuber Cuttings The stem-and-tuber cutting method represents an advanced dahlia propagation technique that combines traditional stem cutting principles with the enhanced rooting power of attached tuber tissue. This method requires advance planning and strategic preparation but consistently delivers superior results compared to simple stem cuttings. The key innovation lies in taking cuttings that include a small “heel” of tuber tissue, which provides additional stored energy, natural rooting hormones, and improved establishment rates. While more complex than basic stem cutting, this method often achieves success rates of 80-90% and produces more vigorous plants that establish faster in their permanent locations. Step-by-Step Guide Step 1: Early Season Tuber Preparation Plant dahlia tubers in early spring using shallow planting technique, leaving the top ½ to ¾ inch of tuber visible above soil level. Use well-draining potting mix in containers at least 8-10 inches deep. This strategic shallow planting encourages multiple stem development directly from the tuber crown, creating ideal cutting material for harvest in 5-6 weeks. Step 2: Monitor Stem Development Wait for stems to reach 4-6 inches tall with healthy green coloration and firm texture. Look for stems with good node spacing and strong attachment points to the tuber. The optimal cutting window occurs when stems are neither too soft (which may rot) nor too woody (which root slowly). Early morning harvest provides the best plant hydration levels. Step 3: Prepare Cutting Area Set up a clean, well-lit workspace with all materials ready. Sterilize cutting tools with alcohol and carefully brush away soil from around stem bases to expose the tuber connection points. This exposure allows you to identify the optimal cutting line where stem meets tuber tissue. Step 4: Take Precision Cuttings Using a sharp knife, make cuts at a slight downward angle starting approximately ¼ inch into the tuber tissue. Include a “heel” of tuber tissue about the size of a small coin attached to each stem cutting. The cutting should include 2-3 nodes on the stem portion and maintain clean wound surfaces to prevent disease entry. Step 5: Treat and Prepare Cuttings Allow cut surfaces to air dry for 15-30 minutes to form protective callus tissue. Remove lower leaves from the stem while preserving more upper foliage than simple stem cuttings due to the energy reserves in tuber tissue. Optionally dust cut tuber surfaces with fungicidal powder to prevent rot development. Step 6: Plant with Enhanced Drainage Plant cuttings in specialized high-drainage medium with extra perlite or coarse sand. Position the tuber portion just at or slightly below soil surface while ensuring at least one stem node is buried. Use deeper containers to accommodate both developing roots and tuber tissue, maintaining natural horizontal orientation. Step 7: Create Optimal Environment Establish 85-90% humidity using clear covers while providing gentle air circulation to prevent stagnant conditions around tuber tissue. Maintain consistent temperatures of 68-75°F using bottom heat if available. Provide bright, indirect light equivalent to filtered sunlight conditions. Monitor Development Watch for multiple indicators including tuber tissue health, stem vigor, and root development from both stem nodes and tuber tissue. Expect faster development than simple stem cuttings, with root initiation often beginning 5-7 days earlier due to stored energy reserves. Remove any signs of rot immediately. Conclusion Stem-and-tuber cuttings offer a reliable, high-success method to propagate dahlias with speed and vigor. By including a small tuber “heel,” cuttings root faster and establish more robustly. With a bit of early planning and careful technique, this method consistently outperforms simple stem cuttings. It’s ideal for multiplying prized varieties and building a strong, healthy dahlia collection. Khaja Moinuddin, a computer science graduate, finds joy in gardening and homesteading. Join him on this blog as he shares his experiences in homesteading, gardening, and composting Source link

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Evergreen types thrive in Zones 8 to 11, while deciduous cultivars are typically hardy down to Zone 6. To get to know the lily of the Nile more intimately, check out our guide to growing agapanthus, where you’ll learn how to cultivate and care for these stunning plants in your garden. In this article, you’ll meet the firework-display array of different agapanthus varieties and choose the best ones for your beds and borders. 29 Favorite Agapanthus Cultivars Without further ado, here are my 29 favorite agapanthus varieties: 1. Albus For a show of snow-white blooms from mid- to late summer, try growing a group of A. africanus ‘Albus’ in your beds and borders. ‘Albus’ The individual flowers are shaped like trumpets and adorn two- to three-feet-tall stems. This cultivar spreads three to four feet. Plant a whole border of ‘Albus’ along a walkway for a dazzling contrast to a red, blue, or green house. During the winter and spring, you’ll enjoy the low clumps of strap-shaped leaves characteristic of the evergreen ‘Albus.’ 2. Angela Do you dream of delicate, light purple blooms with an attractive, drooping habit? Then ‘Angela’ is perfect for you. ‘Angela.’ Photo via Alamy. ‘Angela’ may look delicate, but she grows up to four feet tall at her zenith, spreads about two feet, and blooms in midsummer. Evergreen and hardy in Zones 8 to 11, ‘Angela’ looks especially beautiful when grown alongside bright pink coneflower. 3. Back in Black ‘Back in Black’ makes a bold statement with deep burgundy flower buds that open to rich, dark violet blooms in midsummer. Rising on tall stems above a base of glossy green foliage and dark stems, the effect is dramatic and modern, perfect for gardeners who love a touch of the unexpected. Reaching about two to three feet high and wide, it stands out in monochrome plantings or paired with silvery grasses and pale blooms for high contrast. ‘Back in Black’ In a mixed border or as a container centerpiece, it offers a moody elegance that draws the eye and anchors the surrounding color palette. You can find ‘Back in Black’ available at Nature Hills Nursery. 4. Barley Blue A. praecox ‘Barley Blue’ offers a soft, romantic display with its rounded clusters of lavender-blue flowers that appear in early to midsummer. The blooms rise above a neat mound of green, strap-like foliage, creating a gentle contrast that works beautifully in both traditional and contemporary designs. Reaching about two feet tall and wide, it’s an ideal choice for lining a sunny path, framing an entryway, or adding a cool splash of color among warm-toned perennials. ‘Barley Blue’ Its airy umbels catch the light and sway in the breeze, bringing a graceful movement to the garden at the height of the season. Find ‘Barley Blue’ plants in one-gallon containers available from Fast Growing Trees. 5. Black Pantha For tight, glossy-black buds that open into dark purple flowers, try the extraordinary ‘Black Pantha’ (A. praecox var. orientalis) in your flowerbed. An evergreen variety with gray-green foliage, ‘Black Pantha’ grows on flower stalks from one to three feet tall and spreads two to three feet. ‘Black Pantha’ Best of all, the plant blooms throughout the spring and summer and cut flowers last up to two weeks in a vase! You can find plants available at Burpee. 6. Blue Heaven For a cultivar that’ll remind you of blue skies even during the grayest days, try planting ‘Blue Heaven.’ With heavenly, baby-blue blooms on three-feet-tall stalks and a spread of three feet, ‘Blue Heaven’ provides a pop of color in a flower bed or a vase. Or both. ‘Blue Heaven’ Hardy in Zones 7 to 11, ‘Blue Heaven’ blooms in midsummer and then re-blooms in the fall for another round of pleasing periwinkle. You can find bare root plants available at Burpee. 7. Blue Yonder Do you dream of a far-flung field bursting with violet wildflowers? The type of scene you’re lucky to catch in the springtime, or that maybe you’ve only seen in a painting or a book? ‘Blue Yonder.’ Then let me introduce you to ‘Blue Yonder,’ the lily of the Nile that’ll fill your eyes with all the purple-blue beauty you ever wished for. Evergreen in Zones 8 and above and deciduous in Zones 6 and 7, ‘Blue Yonder’ and its two- to three-feet-tall green stalks and clumps of strap-shaped leaves that spread up to two feet would look absolutely amazing against a yellow or taupe colored house. 8. Brilliant Blue Are you looking for a vibrant spray of color that’s reminiscent of the ocean right before a storm? Look no further than ‘Brilliant Blue,’ a deciduous variety that grows to about two feet in height, spreads one to two feet, and is hardy to Zone 6. ‘Brilliant Blue.’ With deep-blue flowers that each have a stripe running through the middle of the petals, ‘Brilliant Blue’ offers your garden a pop of color and texture. The flower stalks are shorter than a typical agapanthus, and the strap-shaped foliage gives the plant a compact appearance. This cultivar is ideal for container gardening or planting among other showstoppers in a front-of-the-house flowerbed. 9. Duivenbrugge White ‘Duivenbrugge White’ is an elegant variety that produces large, rounded clusters of pure white, trumpet-shaped blooms in mid to late summer. The flowers are held aloft on sturdy green stems above a base of arching, strap-like foliage, giving the plant a refined yet showy presence. Growing about two to three feet tall with a similar spread, it brings a bright, fresh accent to mixed borders or formal garden designs. ‘Duivenbrugge White’ Whether massed for a crisp, monochromatic display or paired with deep blues and purples for contrast, it lends a timeless charm to the summer garden. You can find plants available from Nature Hills Nursery. 10. Ever Amethyst Perfect for lovers of colorful jewelry and all things beautiful, ‘Ever Amethyst,’ part of the Ever® series from De Wet Enviroscaping in South Africa, shines in a hue of purple that matches its namesake stone. This reblooming agapanthus will bloom all summer long so it’s ideal for those who love a continuous supply of cut flowers. ‘Ever Amethyst’ ‘Ever Amethyst’ is semi-evergreen, grows up to three feet tall, and spreads up to two feet. This cultivar is also pest and disease resistant. It’s hardy in Zones 8 to11, and you can find two-and-a-half-quart containers from the Southern Living Plant Collection via the Home Depot. 11. Ever Sapphire Like ‘Ever Amethyst,’ ‘Ever Sapphire’ gleams in jeweled tones, but this time in bright blue instead of violet. ‘Ever Sapphire’ This evergreen cultivar reaches one to two feet in height and spread. ‘Ever Sapphire’ is sure to please the eye as it blooms prolifically from springtime well into the summer months. ‘Ever Sapphire’ is hardy in Zones 8 to 11 and you can find two-quart containers from the Southern Living Plant Collection, available via Home Depot. 12. Ever Twilight This white-flowered, purple-throated variety looks a lot like ‘Queen Mum,’ described below, but with more of a violet hue. Plus, it’s a semi-dwarf cultivar that reaches just one to two feet tall and wide, and is hardy in Zones 8 to 11. ‘Ever Twilight’ Evergreen ‘Ever Twilight’ reminds me of long, endless summer nights in Alaska. To add a bit of this twilight magic to your garden, you can find ‘Ever Twilight’ in two-and-a-half-quart containers from the Southern Living Plant Collection via the Home Depot. 13. Ever White For a snow-white cultivar whose individual flowers truly resemble lilies, try ‘Ever White,’ a semi-dwarf cultivar that grows just one to two feet tall and wide. ‘Ever White’ Like other cultivars in the  Ever® series, semi-evergreen ‘Ever White’ blooms from springtime and well into the summer and is hardy in Zones 8 to 11. You can find two-and-a-half-quart pots from the Southern Living Plant Collection, available via the Home Depot. 14. Galaxy Blue It shimmers in radiant periwinkle with a delicate stripe running through each petal. It towers to over three feet tall and spreads more than two feet wide. It’s deciduous ‘Galaxy Blue,’ a cultivar to delight your senses with its clusters of flowers. ‘Galaxy Blue’ This one’s hardy to Zone 6 – which is good news for gardeners in slightly cooler areas who dream of growing agapanthus – and once it starts to bloom in summer, it continues to rebloom all season. You can find gallon containers or bare root plants available at Burpee. 15. Galaxy White ‘Galaxy White’ is a striking cultivar that produces generous clusters of crisp, pure white flowers held aloft on sturdy stems. Blooming in midsummer, it creates a luminous focal point that seems to glow in both daylight and moonlight. Plants reach about three feet tall in bloom with a similar spread, forming tidy clumps of strap-like green foliage. ‘Galaxy White’ It’s a natural fit for brightening the middle or back of a mixed border, where its pale blooms contrast beautifully with darker-leaved perennials, or along a garden path where you can enjoy its showy umbels up close. You can find ‘Galaxy White’ bare roots available at Burpee. 16. Golden Drop No, it isn’t the flower color that’s golden in the case of ‘Golden Drop,’ it’s the foliage. Unlike most other agapanthus varieties, the leaves of this cultivar are green in the middle with gold-tinged edges, which provides interest and texture to the garden. Since ‘Golden Drop’ is evergreen, you’ll enjoy its unique foliage all year long in Zones 7 to 11. Contrast these leaves with the soft-blue flowers and you’ve got a plant that’s reminiscent of a sweet summer day spent on the beach. ‘Golden Drop’ has a compact growth habit and reaches up to just 16 to 18 inches in height and spread, so it’s perfect for containers, window boxes, and small patio gardens. 17. Graskop Also called the grassland agapanthus, deciduous ‘Graskop’ (A. inapertus var. pendulus) grows up to three feet tall and wide and sports light green, grass-like leaves and deep purple, pendulous flowers. ‘Graskop.’ Photo via Alamy. ‘Graskop’ thrives in Zones 8 to 11, but you can grow it in Zones 6 and 7 if you’re prepared to bring it indoors during the winter months. This summer-blooming variety is named for Graskop, the town in the beautiful province of Mpumalanga, South Africa. So, be warned: planting ‘Graskop’ may just give you wanderlust! 18. Indigo Frost Indigo Frost™ stands out with its striking bicolor blooms, each trumpet-shaped flower displaying deep violet-blue throats that fade to crisp white edges. Appearing in mid- to late summer, the rounded umbels rise on tall stems above clumps of glossy green, strap-like foliage. Typically reaching two to three feet tall with a similar spread, this variety makes a dramatic focal point in borders or containers. Indigo Frost Its cool, two-toned palette pairs beautifully with silver-leaved plants or massed white flowers, creating a refreshing, eye-catching display during the warmest months. Head to Nature Hills Nursery to pick up Indigo Frost™ plants. 19. Johanna ‘Johanna’ features large, rounded clusters of rich violet-blue flowers that open in mid to late summer, held above a tidy mound of arching, strap-like green foliage. Reaching about two to three feet tall and wide, it delivers a bold splash of saturated color that draws the eye from across the garden. This variety makes an excellent choice for creating rhythm in a border when repeated in groups, or for adding a jewel-toned accent alongside softer pastels. ‘Johanna’ Its vibrant blooms also bring a touch of drama to patio containers, where they can be admired up close. Find ‘Johanna’ plants available from Nature Hills Nursery. 20. Loch Hope Do you wish you could visit the glistening lakes of Scotland right now? Then let ‘Loch Hope’ satisfy your cravings until you actually can travel to the Highlands. ‘Loch Hope.’ Photo via Alamy. Its bright blue flowers feature delicate purple stripes that look extra dreamy when planted alongside orange crocosmia or bird of paradise. ‘Loch Hope’ won the Award of Garden Merit from the Royal Horticultural Society in 1993. This deciduous cultivar is hardy to Zone 6 and grows up to four feet tall with a spread of two feet. It flowers from mid- to late summer. 21. Margaret Do you dream of baby blue petals against a yellow house? I sometimes do. For us dreamers, ‘Margaret’ offers large, powder-blue blooms atop two- to three-feet-tall stems. ‘Margaret’ A semi-evergreen cultivar with glossy green leaves, she’s hardy to Zone 7 with adequate winter protection. ‘Margaret’ blooms from mid- to late summer and plants spread two to three feet. 22. Midnight Dream One of my favorite things to do is step out onto my back porch and gaze at the midnight sky, when I’m up that late. !function(f,b,e,v,n,t,s) if(f.fbq)return;n=f.fbq=function()n.callMethod? n.callMethod.apply(n,arguments):n.queue.push(arguments); if(!f._fbq)f._fbq=n;n.push=n;n.loaded=!0;n.version='2.0'; n.queue=[];t=b.createElement(e);t.async=!0; t.src=v;s=b.getElementsByTagName(e)[0]; s.parentNode.insertBefore(t,s)(window, document,'script', ' fbq('init', '176410929431717'); fbq('track', 'PageView'); Source link

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By: Shelly Posted: Aug 11, 2025 We’re about to cook the crispiest, most delicious pub-style chicken wings in the air fryer! This method is quick, mess-free, and easy to customize. Sauce and season your air fryer chicken wings anyway you’d like. You might also love this spicy buffalo chicken wing dip and these crispy Cool Ranch chicken tenders. Your air fryer is the best way to cook perfect, crispy, flavor-packed chicken wings in a fraction of the time, and with less oil. I toss these air fryer chicken wings in a savory blend of spices, and they fry up perfectly in minutes. This recipe is great for game days, weeknights, and is so easy to customize! Prepare to Be Obsessed With Air Fryer Chicken Wings Quick. Air frying is quick, great for busy weeknights, and last-minute party snacks. Less oil. As much as I love the crunch that comes with deep-frying, these air fryer chicken wings are super crispy, too, without the oil and mess. Customizable. The recipe I share here is simple enough that you can really make it your own. Adapt the seasonings and toss your wings in any of your favorite store-bought or homemade wing sauces! You’ll Need These Ingredients This is an overview with notes on what you’ll need to make these fuss-free air fryer chicken wings. Scroll for sauce and variation ideas, followed by a printable recipe card with the full recipe amounts and details. Chicken Wings – Fresh or frozen (if you’re using frozen wings, make sure they’re completely thawed). You can make this recipe with bone-in or boneless chicken wings. Keep in mind that boneless wings will need a shorter cooking time. Baking Powder – This is a secret weapon when making wings at home! Make sure you’re using powder and NOT baking soda. See below. Spices – I make a simple chicken seasoning with garlic powder, paprika, salt, and pepper. Feel free to swap this for your favorite spices or seasoning blend (steak spice also works nicely on chicken wings!). Olive Oil Spray – Do NOT use PAM or similar aerosol cooking sprays on your air fryer, as it can damage the non-stick coating on the basket. What Does Baking Powder Do to Chicken Wings? Baking powder tenderizes the chicken skin and draws out moisture. As a result, the chicken wings turn out crispier and nicely browned when cooked. It’s a great way to recreate that crispy, “fried” texture when baking or air frying wings. How to Make Crispy Chicken Wings in the Air Fryer These are the quick steps to make the only air fryer chicken wings recipe you’ll ever need! Scroll to the recipe card below the post for the printable instructions. Dry and season the chicken. Toss to coat. Dry the chicken. Take your chicken wings out of the packaging and pat each wing dry using a paper towel.  Season the wings. Next, add the wings to a large ziplock bag along with the spices, and give that a shake. Arrange the wings in a single layer. Cook! Air fry. Arrange the wings in a single layer inside the air fryer basket. Give them a spritz with olive oil spray and cook at 400ºF for 18-20 minutes, turning halfway through. Rest. Allow the chicken wings to rest for 5 minutes afterward, then serve as-is or toss them with sauce. See below!  Wing Sauce Ideas If you’d like to sauce these chicken wings, add the air fryer wings to a large bowl, pour your choice of warmed sauce over them, and toss to coat. These are some easy ideas! Tips for Successfully Air-Fried Wings Dry the wings well. Paper towels are great because they soak up the moisture. Dry chicken wings crisp up better. Preheat the air fryer. Make sure it’s good and hot before you add the wings. If the air fryer isn’t hot enough, the wings won’t be as crispy. Don’t use aerosols. Very important, so I’ll say it again: No aerosol cooking sprays in the air fryer! Olive oil spray is best, and you can even buy a spritzer bottle from the store and refill it. Leave space between the wings. Don’t overcrowd the air fryer basket. The hot air needs space to circulate, so the wings sear instead of steam. Cook in batches if you need to! Check that they’re cooked. Use an instant-read thermometer to check that the internal temperature hits 165ºF at the thickest part of the wing. What to Serve With Homemade Chicken Wings  I love serving crispy chicken wings with crudités like carrot and celery sticks, with dipping sauces like blue cheese dressing, ranch, sour cream, or honey mustard. They’re perfect for game day, to have next to other football party apps like nachos, this spicy jalapeño popper pizza, and mac and cheese balls. Storage and Reheating Refrigerate. Keep your leftover chicken wings in an airtight container in the fridge and reheat them within 3 days. Reheat. Warm the chicken wings in the air fryer or oven at 350ºF until they’re hot again. Freeze. Never buy frozen wings from the store again! These air fryer chicken wings freeze well for up to 3 months. Thaw them in the fridge before reheating. More Air Fryer Chicken Recipes Print clock clock iconcutlery cutlery iconflag flag iconfolder folder iconinstagram instagram iconpinterest pinterest iconfacebook facebook iconprint print iconsquares squares iconheart heart iconheart solid heart solid icon Description Make the crispiest pub-style chicken wings in the air fryer! This method is quick, mess-free, and easy to customize. Sauce and season your homemade wings anyway you’d like. 1 1/2 pounds chicken wings 2 teaspoons baking powder  1 teaspoon garlic powder 1 teaspoon kosher salt 3/4 teaspoon paprika 1/2 teaspoon black pepper Olive oil spray Remove the chicken wings from the package and pat them dry with a paper towel. Place the wings inside a large ziploc bag. Add the spices. Seal the bag and shake it to coat the chicken wings. Preheat the air fryer to 400ºF. Place the wings in the basket of the air fryer, leaving some space between. You may need to work in batches. Spray them with olive oil spray. Cook for 18-20 minutes or until the internal temperature reaches 165ºF. Turn halfway through cooking time. Allow the chicken wings to rest for 5 minutes before adding sauce or serving. Notes Add a sauce: If you want to sauce the wings, add the cooked wings to a large bowl and pour warmed sauce of choice over them. Toss to coat the wings. Transfer to a serving plate. Want To Save This Recipe?Find more recipes like this: Source link

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It's common to impulsively purchase a piece of furniture or opt for a bolder color just to refresh a space, however, there are a couple of home features to stay away from. We asked interior designers to spill the truth about the biggest home design regrets they see—and trust us, they did not hold back. From misguided countertop moves to regrettable plumbing fixtures, here's what they said (and how to avoid making the same mistakes). Meet the Expert Paulina Hospod is an interior designer at AhA!nteriors. Kerry O'Duibhir is the chief executive officer at New Wave Design & Contracting. Alex Thies is the owner and creative director at Adelyn Charles Interiors. Corner Sinks At first glance, a corner sink might seem like a clever way to save space, especially in smaller kitchens where every inch counts. But according to designers, this layout choice often ends up high up on clients' regret list."One design choice I often see clients regret is the corner sink," Paulina Hospod, an interior designer at AhA!nteriors, says. While they may seem like a space-saving solution at first, she says, they come with several drawbacks: one, they're uncomfortable to stand in front of for any length of time. Two, they sacrifice valuable corner cabinet storage for plumbing. And, three, they push the sink too far back into the counter, making it awkward to use. If you're renovating or building from scratch, Hospod recommends sticking with a more central sink location whenever possible. It might take up a little more wall space, but your back and your storage options will thank you later. Want more design inspiration? Sign up for our free daily newsletter for the latest decor ideas, designer tips, and more! Black Plumbing Fixtures Credit: Sabina Galja / Getty Images They may look sleek and dramatic on Pinterest, but according to designers, once real life sets in, black plumbing fixtures often leave homeowners with more regret than style points.“I’ve seen so many clients regret choosing them once they start living with the space. While they might look striking in photos, the reality is that the finish wears quickly, shows water spots and fingerprints, and is rarely backed by a strong manufacturer's warranty," Hospod says. In lieu of black fixtures, Hospod encourages clients to stick with timeless finishes like chrome, nickel, or brass. These not only age more gracefully, Hospod says, but they are also easier to maintain—and far more likely to stand the test of time, both functionally and aesthetically. Bouclé Credit: Shae M / Getty Images It’s cozy, it’s textured, and it’s all over your Instagram feed—but according to interior designers, bouclé might be better admired from afar than lived with up close. “Bouclé is one fabric I often caution clients about,” Hospod says. “While it photographs beautifully and adds great texture, in everyday use, it tends to disappoint." Crumbs and dust can settle deep into its loops, she explains, making it difficult to clean, and the fabric wears unevenly—lighter tones show wear quickly, while darker ones highlight every speck. If you love the textural look of boucle, but want something more practical, consider similarly textured fabrics with tighter weaves or performance-grade durability. "It’s all about finding that sweet spot between style and sustainability—for your furniture and your sanity," says Hospod. Lower Cabinets With No Pull-Out Shelving Traditional lower cabinets may look timeless, but when it comes to everyday function, they often fall short. In fact, if you’ve ever had to crouch down and dig through a dark corner to find the blender, you already know the struggle.Many people choose traditional lower cabinets with shelves, which look classic but make you bend down and dig the back for heavy pots, pans, and small appliances, Kerry O'Duibhir, the chief executive officer at New Wave Design & Contracting, says. After using their kitchen for a time, she says clients often realize deep drawers or pull-outs are far more functional—you can see everything at a glance and reach it easily. O'Duibhir recommends rethinking lower cabinet storage early in your planning process. Opt for full-extension drawers or pull-out shelves to make every inch usable, and your kitchen routine a whole lot easier. Marble Countertops Credit: brizmaker / Getty Images There’s no denying it—marble countertops are stunning. Elegant, timeless, and oh-so-photogenic. But ask anyone who’s lived with them for more than a week, and the love affair starts to wane fast. “Marble countertops! I love the look of marble as much as the next girl, but it is just not a practical solution in a kitchen,” Alex Thies, the owner and creative director at Adelyn Charles Interiors, explains how marble isn't a practical solution in the kitchen because it requires regular maintenance since it's super soft and porous. "It is prone to chipping, scratching, and staining, and if you live in a home with a kitchen that actually gets used, it will never hold up," Thies says. Even a splash of lemon juice or a ring from a wine glass can leave a permanent mark, and keeping marble pristine often requires a level of caution that most busy households realistically don’t have time for. Thies recommends quartzite as a savvy alternative. “It’s a natural stone that has similar movement and coloring to marble, but with more durability,” she explains. "You’ll still get that soft, organic look—but without worrying every time someone puts down a coffee cup." Luxury Laminate Credit: Kseniya Ovchinnikova / Getty Images Luxury vinyl or laminate wood-look flooring is another thing that Thies highly recommends clients stay away from. Although it may be appealing at first for its resilience and appearance of a wood floor, it will never beat the real thing, Thies explains. Among clients' biggest complaints? That unmistakable “clicky” sound underfoot, a synthetic feel that doesn’t age gracefully, and a lack of the warmth and character that natural wood brings to a space. It might hold up against spills, but it falls short on soul. Instead, Thies recommends engineered wood flooring in a hearty species like white oak. “Nothing beats the warmth of a real wood floor underfoot,” she says. “Choose a character-grade option if you want something more forgiving." The harder wood species can be surprisingly easy to maintain and clean, she says. Source link

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As the day temperature drops and night gets colder, garden soil remains warm and it’s a sign that you still have chance to grow plants. Perennials are plants that come back every year during the growing season. You don’t have to plant them annually. Though most perennials prefer warmer temperatures to grow and bloom, there are few exceptions that can tolerate colder months. In this write-up you’ll learn growing requirements of the perennial and optimal time to plant them. While planting, plan for a mix of late-season bloomers and true winter-flowering perennials can carry the garden with blossoms, fragrance, and texture when most plants are dormant. You don’t have to lose color when summer ends. Pick fall and winter bloomers—like hellebores, witch hazel, camellias, and cyclamen—to keep flowers, fragrance, and structure going when most plants are sleeping. Plant about 6–8 weeks before your first hard frost. Focus on good drainage, add mulch to prevent frost heave, and group plants where they’ll get the right light and shelter. Prune at the right time, and enjoy blooms from late fall into early spring. When to Plant Perennials to Bloom in Fall and Winter? Fall is one of the best times to plant perennials because cooler air and warm soil reduce transplant stress and fuel strong root development before winter, setting plants up for better performance next season. Aim to plant about 6–8 weeks before the first hard frost so roots establish while the ground is still workable; keep newly planted perennials watered if rainfall is sparse in autumn. Early-blooming perennials often perform even better when planted in fall, and many shade perennials (such as hellebores) are ideally planted in cool weather, including fall and early spring. 17 Perennials That Bloom in Fall and Winter While choosing perennials you must ensure the plants can thrive in shade or shorter days and should be able to tolerate colder winds. 1. Hellebores Hellebores (Christmas/Lenten roses) bloom from winter to early spring with nodding flowers in white, green, pink, or deep purple. They’re hardy, mostly evergreen, and usually ignored by deer and rabbits. Plant in partial to full shade in moist, well-drained, rich soil. Plant in cool weather (fall to spring), mulch, and water to establish. Expect blooms anytime from early winter to late spring, depending on climate. In late winter, remove old, ragged leaves so the flowers show better. 2. Witch Hazel Witch hazel is a deciduous shrub or small tree that blooms in fall and winter with spidery yellow, orange, or red flowers, often sweetly scented on cold days. It’s low-maintenance and generally pest- and disease-resistant, adding rare midwinter color and fragrance. Plant in full sun to partial shade in well-drained, moderately acidic soil. Give it room to spread and water during dry spells in the first year. Bloom time usually runs from late fall into winter, sometimes early spring, depending on species and climate. 3. Algerian Iris Algerian iris (Iris unguicularis) forms neat clumps and sends up delicate, fragrant lilac flowers in late winter, brightening the garden when color is scarce. It’s low-maintenance and looks great near paths or patios where blooms can be enjoyed up close. Grow in full sun to part shade in well-drained soil; avoid heavy, overly rich sites. Water to establish, then keep on the dry side in summer. Divide clumps when growth slows. Expect flowers in late winter into early spring, often during mild spells. 4. Camellia Camellias are evergreen shrubs with glossy leaves and rose-like winter flowers in white, pink, or red. In mild climates, many varieties bloom from winter into spring, adding color and structure when most plants are bare. Plant in partial shade with acidic, organic, moisture-retentive but well-drained soil. Protect from hot afternoon sun and drying winds, and mulch around the roots to keep them cool and moist. Bloom time varies by cultivar and climate, typically winter through spring; choose cold-hardy types if your winters are severe. 5. Cyclamen Cyclamen produce butterfly-like flowers in pinks, reds, and whites above patterned leaves, blooming from fall through winter into spring. Some species suit garden beds; others shine in cool-season containers. They add welcome color under deciduous trees as leaves drop. Plant hardy types in partial shade in well-drained, humus-rich soil. Water sparingly—tubers dislike soggy conditions—and keep summers on the dry side for good health. Bloom time varies by species and climate but typically runs from fall through early spring, with flushes during mild spells. 6. Winter Jasmine Winter jasmine is a deciduous, arching shrub that brightens mid to late winter with cheerful yellow flowers on bare green stems, often blooming even during cold spells. It’s reliable on slopes, walls, or trellises for a cascading winter display. Grow in full sun to part shade in average, well-drained soil. Water to establish, then it’s fairly drought-tolerant. Prune right after flowering to shape the plant and encourage new shoots that will bloom next winter. Expect flowers from winter into early spring, depending on local temperatures. 7. Winterberry Holly Winterberry (Ilex verticillata) has small summer flowers, but female plants shine in late fall and winter with bright red berries—provided a compatible male is nearby. The fruit offers bold seasonal color and valuable bird food, creating a “winter bloom” effect, especially striking against snow. Plant in full sun to part shade in moist, acidic soil. Include at least one male within about 50ft for pollination. Berries set after summer bloom and often persist through winter, unless birds eat them. Choose cultivars with overlapping bloom times. 8. Hardy Viola Many violas act as short-lived perennials in mild climates, providing cold-tolerant color into late fall and often through winter thaws, bouncing back repeatedly. They’re ideal for edging, window boxes, and containers that need winter cheer. Grow in full sun to part shade with fertile, well-drained, consistently moist soil; deadhead to extend bloom. Expect repeated flushes from fall through winter into early spring in suitable climates. 9. Snowdrops These bulbous perennials are among the earliest bloomers, pushing dainty white bells through frozen soil in late winter, bridging the gap to spring. They naturalize beautifully in drifts beneath deciduous trees and shrubs where winter light reaches the ground. Plant bulbs in fall in partial shade with well-drained, humus-rich soil; allow foliage to die back naturally after bloom to recharge bulbs. Bloom time is late winter to very early spring depending on climate. 10. Glory-of-the-Snow Glory-of-the-snow are small bulbs that return yearly with starry blue, pink, or white flowers as winter recedes, thriving with minimal care and often spreading into cheerful carpets. They’re durable, disease-resistant, and deer-resistant, perfect for naturalizing. Plant in fall 2–3in deep in sun to partial shade with well-drained soil; avoid disturbance for best clump expansion. Flowering is typically very early spring, often overlapping the tail end of winter in milder climates. 11. Helleborus niger A distinct hellebore species prized for blooming around December in mild years, Christmas rose bears pristine white flowers that can emerge in mid-winter or as soon as snow melts where winters are harsher. It’s exceptionally cold-hardy and a mainstay for true winter bloom in shaded beds. Grow in partial shade with moisture-retentive, free-draining soil; plant during cool weather and avoid feeding other perennials in fall while feeding hellebores as they grow actively in cool seasons. Blooming occurs from early winter through late winter/early spring, varying by climate. 12. Black-eyed Susan While best known as summer bloomers, many Rudbeckia selections carry flowers well into fall, extending color as nights cool, especially in prolonged mild autumns. They’re rugged, pollinator-friendly, and mix seamlessly with other late-season perennials. Grow in full sun with average, well-drained soil; deadhead for extended bloom and leave some seedheads for birds and winter interest. Peak bloom is summer into fall, often lasting to frost in many regions. 13. Chrysanthemum Mums are classic fall perennials, delivering dense mounds of daisies in every autumn shade and providing vital late nectar for pollinators. Modern hardy garden mums, planted in the ground and allowed to root in summer, overwinter better and return reliably. Plant in full sun with fertile, well-drained soil; pinch in early summer for bushier plants and plant hardy mums well before frost so they establish. Blooming occurs in late summer through fall, often peaking in mid-to-late autumn. 14. Toad Lily Toad lily brings orchid-like, speckled flowers to shade gardens just as many borders are winding down, with blooms appearing from late summer into fall and often lasting until frost in suitable climates. Plants prefer consistently moist conditions and shine along woodland edges or shaded paths where their intricate flowers can be appreciated up close. Plant in part to full shade in rich, well-drained soil that stays evenly moist; avoid dry sites and mulch to conserve moisture through late season. Set divisions or nursery plants in spring or early fall to establish before freezing weather; expect flowering in late summer through fall, sometimes up to first frost depending on region. 15. Monkshood Monkshood offers tall spires of saturated cobalt-blue flowers that peak in early to mid-fall, often October, providing strong color as nights cool. Plants prefer full sun in cooler regions or dappled shade in warmer areas, with evenly moist, well-drained soil to avoid stress and flopping. Plant in spring or early fall in moisture-retentive, well-drained soil; stake if exposed to wind, and wear gloves when handling because all parts are poisonous. Expect bloom late summer to mid-fall, with ‘Arendsii’ known for a particularly late and showy display in autumn borders. 16. Asters Hardy asters carry the garden into fall with clouds of lavender-blue daisies that feed late pollinators and pair well with grasses and seedheads for seasonal texture. They’re adaptable in full sun to part shade with average, well-drained soils and benefit from a midsummer pinch to reduce height and delay bloom for a longer fall show. Plant in spring or fall in sunny, well-drained beds; water to establish, then allow average moisture, and deadhead lightly to tidy while leaving some seedheads for wildlife. Flowering typically runs late summer through fall, often peaking as other perennials fade and persisting until frost. 17. Goldenrod Modern goldenrod cultivars are compact, clump-forming, and explode with arching spires of golden-yellow flowers in late summer through fall, drawing diverse pollinators without causing allergies (ragweed is the usual culprit). They tolerate varied soils and light from full sun to part shade, making them easy to weave into borders for autumn brightness. Plant in spring or early fall in medium, well-drained soil; shear taller types by half in early June to keep plants compact and push bloom later into fall. Expect a long fall display, with sprays holding color well into the season and combining beautifully with asters and grasses. Planting and Establishment Tips Time it right: Target 6–8 weeks before your local first hard frost so roots develop before the ground freezes. Location and soil: Match sun/shade needs and ensure good drainage; most winter-flowering perennials dislike waterlogged soil. Water and mulch: Water deeply at planting and during dry spells; mulch 2–3in to moderate soil temperatures and retain moisture. Winter care: Some cool-season growers like hellebores benefit from planting and feeding during fall and early spring when they’re active. Conclusion A four-season garden is within reach by combining late-season bloomers like mums and Rudbeckia with true winter performers such as hellebores, witch hazel, winter jasmine, and early bulbs. Planting perennials in fall leverages ideal root-building conditions and fewer pests so beds mature faster and bloom stronger when cold weather arrives. With the right selections and timing, the garden can carry color, fragrance, and life from the first frosts through the heart of winter and into early spring Khaja Moinuddin, a computer science graduate, finds joy in gardening and homesteading. Join him on this blog as he shares his experiences in homesteading, gardening, and composting Source link

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Seed saving is a lost art that seems to be making its way back to popularity with gardeners. Seeds are largely inexpensive to buy, making them an easy and economical way to grow your garden by buying them in the store. But there are some reasons why seed saving is coming back into vogue in the home garden. Seed saving will not only save seeds but also save your hard-earned money. Store-bought seeds are cheap compared to transplants, but seeds you save yourself are free. And you’ve certainly noticed that the bill from your seed purchases can really add up! Second, when you save seeds from the best specimens in your garden, you will improve your seed stock year after year. The seeds will develop strong traits well suited to your garden’s individual microclimate. Finally, seed saving is immensely gratifying. How awesome is it to be a part of your plant’s full life cycle? Let me show you how you can save your own seeds! Plant the Garden with Seed Saving in Mind The best way to start seed saving begins at planting time. When you plan out your garden, do so with the intention of saving seeds at the end of the season. Plant from seed or transplants with this in mind: you can only save seeds from heirloom or open-pollinated plants. They will be identified as heirloom or marked as “OP” on seed packages. Open-pollinated and heirloom plants have the best chance of growing true to the parent plant. Hybrid plant seeds risk producing different characteristics of the parent plants, or characteristics of only one parent in the hybrid. There is an excellent description of each classification in this post. Once you have your seeds, be careful not to breed them! Plant different varieties of the same species apart to avoid accidental hybridization. If your goal is to build up a good seed stock for a specific variety, it’s better to keep them separate. You can stagger plantings of different varieties of the same species so that they flower at different times. This will help spread out the timing of seed collection. That said, plant breeding is fun! If you want to try your hand at plant breeding at home, then check out this book. You can easily save seeds from both your vegetable and flower garden. Harvest Only the Best Decide what traits you want to pass on to the next generation and prioritize those traits for harvesting seeds: earliness of fruiting, abundance of fruit, size of fruit, flavour, colour, etc. Select the top ten percent of plants exhibiting the most desirable traits and save only their seed. Cull weak or otherwise undesirable individuals within the planting before they are allowed to flower. This will only leave the strongest plants, thus creating superior seeds. Clip any inferior flowers or fruits so they don’t go to seed. Separate and Prepare Seed for Storage Allow the fruit to completely ripen on the vine before harvesting for seed. In many cases, it would be considered “overripe” by eating standards (for example, giant zucchini or bolted lettuce). Here are some general guidelines: If the seed is in a fleshy fruit like squash or eggplant, scoop out the seed mass and place it in a jar with water at room temperature. Let it sit for a few days, stirring occasionally to loosen any of the flesh still attached to the seeds. After a few days, the viable seeds will be sitting at the bottom of the jar. Strain and then let them dry completely before storing. Tomatoes are a bit different, as the seeds need to be fermented. Read about How to Save Heirloom Tomato Seeds. Some seeds inside fruit, such as dry gourds and peppers, are easy to collect. Cut open the fruit and remove the seeds to dry on a paper towel. For more details on how to save vegetable seeds, read this post. Strawberry seeds are on the outside of the fruit. In many cases, it’s best to start strawberries from runners rather than seed, except when it comes to Alpine strawberries. Read more on How to Collect Alpine Strawberry Seeds. Find seeds within a flower bud on lettuce and marigold by cutting open the flower to reveal the seeds inside. Some, like sunflowers, are easy to find because the seeds are visible in the flower, whereas others can be tiny or tucked inside. For seeds that are harvested dry, like poppy seeds or chives, let the seeds dry right on the plant. Collect them carefully by breaking open the pod and shaking them onto a dish towel to separate them from the pod and stems. It’s also best to allow seeds encased in pods, like beans and lilies, to dry on the plants. Collect them carefully by breaking open the pod and separating the seed from the pod and stems. Allow seeds to fully dry before storing them. Seed Storage When the seeds are completely dry, seal them in airtight packaging and label with variety, growing location, and date. Seeds must not be kept where they will not be exposed to dampness or fluctuating temperatures. Store seeds in a cool, dry location for up to two years. Each additional year that seeds are stored reduces their germination rates. Use these printable seed envelopes to store and gift your seeds! Plant the Seed The more generations of plants you grow from your own seed stock, the better chance you have of showing marked improvement. Be sure to give some of your saved seeds away to other gardeners! Sharing your home-saved seed in your local area provides a source of improved seed that has adapted to the local climate and soil. Try adding some to a seed library! Local seeds are already adapted to the local environment. Seed Saving FAQ Will 20-year-old seeds grow? Likely not, but also, never say never! If you have old seeds or aren’t sure of the age of the seeds, I would recommend doing a germination test. This will save you time and supplies, allowing you to plant the seed only if it passes a germination test. I describe how to easily do a germination test using a paper towel and your fridge in this post. Why is seed saving important? While it allows you to cheaply grow next year’s garden, the most important part of seed saving is selecting only the best seeds to carry on. You can slowly improve your yield and harvest year after year, as you only save and plant the seeds from the strongest and best-tasting plants.It also allows us to save heirloom varieties, which can be difficult to find in a world of commercial growing. More Tips for Seedy Gardeners     A city girl who learned to garden and it changed everything. Author, artist, Master Gardener. Better living through plants. Source link

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Sequoioideae subfamily If you wanted to enjoy a redwood tree in the past, you probably thought you had to hop in a car or on a plane and head to the California coast, where towering Sequoia sempervirens reach skyward in ancient groves. But redwoods of all kinds are beginning to find a home in gardens around the world. I still remember the first time I spotted one growing in someone’s yard. That looks like a redwood, I thought. But could it really be thriving here in Washington state? It was. Admittedly, some of these trees can be a bit too large for the average yard, since they are well known as some of the tallest trees on the planet. But not all members of the Sequoioideae subfamily need acres of space. There are species and cultivars that are surprisingly well-suited to landscape use. We link to vendors to help you find relevant products. If you buy from one of our links, we may earn a commission. With their conical shape, reddish bark, and broad base, redwoods are instantly recognizable. When young, the bark is somewhat smooth, becoming deeply fissured with age. That bark is part of what makes these trees so majestic and unique. I can’t walk by one without wanting to run my hands along the trunk. Imagine having one in your garden. Let’s make it happen. Here’s how: Redwoods are coniferous trees in the Sequoioideae subfamily. They share a generally similar appearance and growing requirements, though each species has its own unique traits. This guide will focus on the species that are best suited to home landscapes, particularly the dawn redwood (Metasequoia glyptostroboides). That said, if you live in the right climate, you can absolutely grow a coastal redwood (S. sempervirens), too. Keep in mind that the coastal species thrives in cool, humid climates. They absorb much of their moisture from the air, which is why they’re often found in foggy environments. Without that humidity, they won’t reach their full size, though it’s still possible to grow them in less-than-ideal conditions with some extra effort. If humidity is lacking in your region, the giant redwood (Sequoiadendron giganteum) might be a better choice. These towering trees are native to drier areas at higher-elevations than the coastal species, though they still prefer cool temperatures. Then there’s the dawn redwood. The genus name Metasequoia means “sequoia-like,” and they do indeed resemble their close cousins. But they’re far easier to grow than the coast or giant species, and they bring a unique twist. Unlike most conifers, this species is deciduous. Along with larches (Larix spp.) and bald cypress (Taxodium distichum), dawn redwoods are among the few conifers that drop their needles in fall and grow new foliage in spring. The soft, feathery needles emerge a deep green and turn a lovely bronze-red in autumn before falling. The needles on all types are soft to the touch, which means you can plant them near a patio or walkway without fear of being stabbed by sharp needles. Quick Look Common name(s): Redwood Plant type: Evergreen or deciduous conifer Hardiness (USDA Zone): 4-10 Native to: China, United States Bloom time / season: Year round Exposure: Full sun to partial sun Soil type: Loose, humus-rich, well-draining Soil pH: 4.5-7.5, slightly acidic to slightly alkaline Time to maturity: 50+ years Mature size: Up to 350 feet tall (depending on species) Best uses: Specimen Taxonomy Order: Cupressales Family: Cupressaceae Subfamily: Sequoioideae Genus: Metasequoia, Sequoia, Sequoiadendron Species: Metasequoia glyptostroboides, Sequoia sempervirens, Sequoiadendron giganteum These trees thrive in moist soil and are extremely large. In the wild, they’re endangered and face threats from poachers, fire, and habitat loss. Coastal redwoods are the tallest trees on Earth, growing over 350 feet high. Giant redwoods aren’t far behind, reaching over 300 feet tall. Dawn redwoods are more modest, typically topping out around 160 feet in the wild, and often maturing to about half that size in cultivation. Dwarf and compact cultivars make them even more accessible for smaller spaces. Dawn redwoods are hardy in Zones 4 to 8, giants in Zones 6 to 9, and coast in Zones 7 to 10. While both coastal and giant species are native to North America, dawn redwoods hail from China. Dawn redwood. Fossil evidence shows that dawn redwoods were once widespread across the Northern Hemisphere, but they were believed to be extinct until 1941. That year, a forester named T. Kan discovered a living specimen near Modaoqi, China. Soon after, a team of botanists and redwood enthusiasts journeyed to the region and found thousands of dawn redwoods growing in low-lying rice fields. These trees were being used for timber and fodder, and the landscape had likely once supported far more before agricultural development. Specimens were collected, and in 1947 the Arnold Arboretum of Harvard University sponsored an expedition to gather seeds. Many of the dawn redwoods grown today descend from those original collections, which were shared widely with institutions and gardeners around the world. Some of the earliest specimens still thrive at the Missouri Botanical Garden, in front of the Lehmann Building. Thanks to this distribution effort, this species is now widely available and easy to grow. Here’s how: How to Grow Redwoods tolerate some pretty challenging conditions, like road salt, pollution, and occasional flooding. What they don’t handle well is extreme heat, prolonged drought, or excessive humidity. Let’s break down what they need to thrive: Climate Coast types prefer mild conditions with temperatures typically ranging between 35 and 95°F. They can handle temperatures just outside this range, but prolonged cold or heat may take its toll. Giants are a bit more cold-tolerant, surviving winter lows of about 15°F. Dawn redwoods are the hardiest, they can thrive in regions with frigid winters, tolerating temperatures as low as -30°F and they’ll remain happy up to around 85°F. Occasional heat spikes beyond that are fine, especially once established. Light Young specimens benefit from partial sun, especially in hot climates. Dawn redwoods in particular may suffer from scorched foliage if planted in full sun in regions with intense summer heat. Some afternoon shade can help protect young trees until they grow tall enough to rise above neighboring vegetation. In cooler regions, full sun is ideal, especially for dawn redwoods, which will reward you with more vivid bronze-red fall color if they receive ample sunlight. Those grown in partial shade may show more muted foliage in autumn. Soil All redwood species prefer slightly acidic, humus-rich soil with good drainage. A bit of sand in the mix is welcome, but heavy clay or compacted soils are not. Dawn redwoods are the most flexible, capable of tolerating a pH down to 4.5 and even neutral conditions. Coast and giant types prefer a pH in the range of 5.5 to 7.5. For all three, keeping the roots cool is essential. When trees are young, mulch well with shredded bark or composted leaves to insulate the soil and retain moisture. As they mature, their own canopy will help shade the root zone. Avoid planting in compacted, poorly draining, or alkaline soils. Water No matter the species, you want to keep the soil moist at all times. It’s not the end of the world if the soil dries out temporarily, but extended drought is a problem. Keep the soil consistently moist, especially when trees are young. Water deeply when the top few inches of soil begin to dry out. These trees can also tolerate occasional flooding and excess moisture, so they’re pretty adaptable. Coast types are happy with up to 122 inches of annual rain and lots of humidity, with most of it occurring in the winter. Giant redwoods need less water, up to 55 inches per year, with most rainfall happening in the winter. If natural rainfall isn’t sufficient, mimic these patterns by irrigating more frequently during the cool months and reducing water in the summer, allowing the soil to dry out slightly between waterings. Dawn redwoods are highly adaptable. While they prefer consistently moist soil, they’ll tolerate temporary drought and even some standing water. Fertilizing Before applying any fertilizer, it’s always a good idea to do a soil test. It’s easy and affordable, and your local extension office can help guide you through the process. A soil test will reveal what nutrients are already present and help you avoid overfertilizing or applying unnecessary amendments. You’ll also receive tailored recommendations based on your regional soil conditions. In general, healthy specimens don’t need regular feeding unless the soil is depleted. Let your test results guide you to make informed decisions that support long-term tree health. Where to Buy You can sometimes find these trees at a local nursery, especially if they do well in your region. Dawn redwoods are the most commonly available, and they’re also widely sold online. Dawn Redwood For example you can find the species available at Fast Growing Trees. But if you want to dip your toe in some of the exceptional cultivars out there, here are a few we recommend: Amber Glow Amber Glow™ takes the majestic form of the dawn redwood and scales it down to a more manageable size. Reaching just 40 feet tall and 20 feet wide, it fits beautifully into most home landscapes. Amber Glow The summer foliage is tinged with yellow and turns a gentle golden orange hue in the fall. Hardy in Zones 5 to 9. You can find Amber Glow™ available at Fast Growing Trees. Miss Grace ‘Miss Grace’ has an elegant, weeping habit that brings graceful movement to the garden. Left unstaked, it forms a low, broad pyramid, growing up to 10 feet tall and three feet wide. With support, it can be trained into a more upright, cascading form. The gray-green summer foliage gives way to a rich, deep orange in autumn. This cultivar was discovered as a witches’-broom in New York and developed by Buchholz & Buchholz Nursery in Gaston, Oregon. It was the first weeping dawn redwood introduced to the market and is hardy in Zones 5 to 9. It even tolerates wet soil conditions. North Light If space is limited, consider ‘North Light.’ This compact cultivar forms a tidy, globe-shaped shrub, slowly reaching just five feet tall and wide. It tolerates a range of light conditions, from full sun to partial shade. The foliage is variegated with creamy yellow highlights in spring and summer, transitioning to a brilliant copper-orange in fall. A low-maintenance option for Zones 5 to 9, ‘North Light’ provides reliable, ever-changing color in a pint-sized package. Maintenance I think one of the reasons conifers are so popular is that they need so little maintenance and redwoods are no exception. Photo by Clare Groom. Occasionally, a branch may die back or break during strong winds. When that happens, simply prune it off using clean, sharp pruners, loppers, or a saw, depending on the size. You should also remove any branches that show signs of pest damage or disease. The only other time you’ll need to break out the tools is during a tree’s early years, when you may want to shape it or encourage a specific form. Pruning for structure is best done in early spring, just before new growth begins to emerge. Propagation Redwoods don’t graft reliably, but you can propagate them from seeds or cuttings. The easiest way to get started is to purchase a sapling from a nursery and transplant it into your garden. If you come across a particularly beautiful specimen, consider collecting a cone or taking a cutting, with permission, of course, to start one of your own. It’s always a good idea to start a few more trees than you think you’ll need. Germination and rooting rates can vary, and any extras make excellent gifts. From Seed It’s entirely possible to grow redwoods from seed, and many conservation groups and commercial nurseries rely on this method to preserve genetic diversity. To start, harvest seeds from a mature cone and sow them in an appropriate medium. With time and care, a tiny seedling will emerge – your first step toward a towering tree. Follow the steps in our guide to growing pines from seed and you’ll be on your way. Whether started from seed or cuttings, redwoods – and indeed most conifers – tend to grow bushy at first. It may take a few years before a strong central leader develops. There’s no need to prune to encourage this, although you can remove any particularly awkward or obstructive branches. From Cuttings Cuttings provide a faster route to a mature specimen. When you start from seed, it takes years longer for a tree to mature. Take semi-hardwood cuttings from the end of a branch in late spring or early summer, just as the new growth has started to harden. Aim for a piece that’s at least six inches long. Sprouts from the base of the tree often root best. Strip the lower two-thirds of foliage from the cutting, leaving only a few leaves at the top. Dip the cut end in rooting hormone, then insert it into a gallon-sized container filled with potting mix. Firm the soil around the cutting to hold it upright. Place the pot in a location with full or partial sun and keep the soil evenly moist, not soggy, and never completely dry. It should feel like a well-wrung-out sponge. Allow the cutting to grow in the container for at least a year, until it develops strong new growth and a robust root system. When it’s ready, transplant it into the ground in early spring or late fall. Transplanting Whether you’ve started your redwood from seed, rooted a cutting, or purchased a young tree from a nursery, eventually it’s time to plant it in the ground. Select a site that offers plenty of space. Redwoods are not foundation plants. I once watched a 100-foot redwood topple in a storm, planted far too close to a house, it had grown at an angle reaching for light and eventually fell during a heavy wind and ice event, crushing two cars. Don’t let that be you. Dig a hole twice as wide and twice as deep as the root ball. This gives you room to spread the roots and ensures they aren’t compacted in the planting zone. Remove the plant from its container and gently tease the roots outward. If the roots are spiraled or tightly packed, loosening them will help prevent future girdling or root binding that can damage or kill the tree. Place the tree in the hole so the top of the root ball sits level with the surrounding soil. Adjust the depth if needed by adding or removing soil from the base of the hole. Once it’s in place, backfill with soil, water thoroughly, and add more soil if needed to compensate for settling. Pests and Disease Planted in the right conditions and with the right care, these trees are pretty much untroubled by pests and disease. Encountering problems is rare unless the tree is planting in the wrong soil, climate, or receives too much or too little water. Pests With the climate warming, these impervious trees have recently begun to experience some pest troubles. Let’s talk about those. Scale Rarely, scale will feed on redwoods. These flat, oval insects suck the sap out of the tree using their straw-like mouthparts. This causes yellowing needles and reduced vigor. There are three kinds of scale that attack these trees: black araucaria (Lindingaspis rossi), juniper (Carulaspis juniperi), and redwood scale (Aonidia shastae). Regardless of the species, learn how to deal with them in our guide to scale. Spider Mites Is there any plant that isn’t susceptible to attack from spider mites? Particularly in the dry summer season, spider mites spin fine webs on the tree and use their sucking mouthparts to draw out sap. As they feed, needles turn yellow and drop and, with a large enough infestation, growth might be stunted. Learn how to tackle spider mites here. Bark Beetles For a long time, redwoods were considered impervious to pests, protected by their thick bark and massive size. But in recent years, bark beetles have begun to challenge even the oldest and most resilient trees. If they can threaten giants that have stood for centuries, they can certainly impact your young backyard specimen. Bark beetles have devastated conifer forests across the western US, and redwoods are now on the menu. The primary culprits include the western cedar bark beetle (Phloeosinus punctatus), as well as P. cupressi and P. aubei, which also attack cedar and cypress. These beetles tunnel beneath the bark of twigs, branches, and trunks, leaving behind telltale signs: oozing sap, small exit holes, and sawdust-like frass. If you peel back the bark, you’ll see winding galleries that resemble tangled spaghetti. While a beetle infestation alone typically isn’t enough to kill a healthy tree, it can tip the scales when combined with stressors like drought or root damage. Unfortunately, once bark beetles invade, there’s little you can do to stop them. The best defense is prevention. Keep your tree healthy with consistent moisture, proper planting, and protection from mechanical damage. Encouraging natural predators like woodpeckers and parasitic wasps can also help reduce beetle populations. Maintaining a diverse garden environment gives your trees the best chance of staying beetle-free. Disease Trees in a frequently soggy location might experience Phytophthora crown or root rot. This disease needs moist conditions to thrive and often hitches a ride on infected plants from nurseries. That’s why it’s always a good idea to isolate new plants for a few weeks before putting them in your garden. Trees planted in poorly draining or consistently soggy soil may fall victim to Phytophthora crown or root rot. This fungal-like pathogen thrives in wet conditions and often spreads through infected nursery stock. Symptoms of Phytophthora include sudden decline, dieback, or visible rot around the crown or roots. If you dig around the base and find mushy, discolored roots, your tree may be infected. Unfortunately, there’s little you can do if the disease has progressed significantly. If caught early, however, you can try to improve drainage and treat the affected tree with a fungicide. Products containing copper or the beneficial bacterium Bacillus subtilis are effective options. I’ve found CEASE, a biofungicide that harnesses Bacillus subtilis, to be particularly effective against this and other common soilborne pathogens. CEASE Biofungicide It’s available in gallon and 2.5-gallon sizes at Arbico Organics. Bring The Majesty of a Redwood Forest to Your Space Walking through a redwood forest is an unforgettable experience, but even a single tree in a backyard setting can be just as majestic. I’ve found myself stopping mid-stride to admire a redwood growing in a neighbor’s yard. These trees have a presence that’s hard to describe and impossible to ignore. Whether you’re planting a dawn redwood for its manageable size and brilliant fall color, or making room for one of the true giants, you’re adding a piece of living history to your landscape. Plus, once they mature, redwoods are remarkably self-sufficient. Is it the rugged red bark that draws you in? Their easygoing nature? Or the sheer grandeur of their height? Let us know in the comments section below! And for more information about growing coniferous trees in your landscape, add these guides to your reading list next: Photo by Clare Groom © Ask the Experts, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. See our TOS for more details. Product photos via Arbico Organics and Fast Growing Trees. Uncredited photos: Shutterstock. !function(f,b,e,v,n,t,s) if(f.fbq)return;n=f.fbq=function()n.callMethod? n.callMethod.apply(n,arguments):n.queue.push(arguments); if(!f._fbq)f._fbq=n;n.push=n;n.loaded=!0;n.version='2.0'; n.queue=[];t=b.createElement(e);t.async=!0; t.src=v;s=b.getElementsByTagName(e)[0]; s.parentNode.insertBefore(t,s)(window, document,'script', ' fbq('init', '176410929431717'); fbq('track', 'PageView'); Source link