#commoners hanfu

[ziseviolet]

Hi love ya blog! I’ve been wondering how effective were the coir rain jackets?

Hi! Thanks for loving my blog, and sorry for taking ages to reply! (image via)

Chinese rain capes/raincoats are called 蓑衣/suoyi, and they are mainly made from local materials - in southern China, straw and coir grass are mostly used, as well as brown hair and brown leaves; in the north, thatch and cattail grass are mostly used. It takes about two to three days to make a suoyi by hand. They are typically worn with bamboo hats called 斗笠/douli.

Below - Ming dynasty illustration of a suoyi and douli (x):

Suoyi has a long history, originating before the Qin dynasty (221–206 BC). Although I haven't worn one myself, sources state that they were very effective. Compared with umbrellas, suoyi was not only better at keeping out the rain, but also freed up the two hands to work. Farmers liked to wear it on rainy days, and fishermen often wore it when fishing during rainy and snowy days. During the Ming and Qing dynasties, people travelling during the rainy season usually brought along suoyi (source).

Below - 19th-century late Qing dynasty suoyi made of palm and straw fiber, plus bamboo douli and basket (1, 2):

The tradition of working in the wind and rain wearing suoyi and douli continued until the late 1960s in China, after which they were gradually replaced with modern rain gear. Today, suoyi has become more of a tourist souvenir and decorative object than a practical item. Nevertheless, it can still be seen being worn by some elderly farmers and fisherman.

Below - a cormorant fisherman wearing suoyi and douli in Yangshuo, Guilin, Guangxi (x):

I highly recommend reading the following article for more information on suoyi's history, craftsmanship, and current status: Suoyi: RuCai Lyu’s rain cape and its ongoing tradition of protection.

For additional references, please see my suoyi tag.

If anyone has more info, please share! ^^

Hope this helps!

[angstandhappiness]

NEAT

Song dynasty daily-wear hanfu

[andelkacroatia]

[murderedbyhomework]

「小姑娘，拿著這束蓮花四周尋找，還捧著它笑，妳在想誰呢？」 「不知道啊。我之前發燒了，燒得很厲害，很多事情都不記得了，只記得有個很好看的哥哥用內力救了我，之後就離開了。他好像與蓮花有些關聯。」 「。。。小花，世界上這麼多人掂記你，你總不能忍心拋下他們吧？」｜｜全江湖白月光的名頭可不是白來的

"Young maiden, when you take these lotus flowers along your search, who do you reminiscence with a smile as you grasp them so gently?" "I don't know. Once, I had a terrible fever, so I don't remember much, just a very pretty young man who saved me with his internal power. He left after, but I remember he had some connection with lotus flowers." ".... Xiaohua, there are so many people in this world who remember you, so please don't leave them alone, okay? " || or, the title of white moonlight of the entire Jianghu isnt an empty title

[ziseviolet]

Thank you so much for gathering this information, you are providing a valuable resource for hanfu enthusiasts! I love the sumptuous cuts and fabrics, but as someone often involved in physical labor, it isn't realistic for me. Are there any examples of clothing that might be worn by country folk who have to work in the fields and tend animals?

Hi! Thanks for the question, and sorry for taking ages to reply! (image via)

Yes, there is hanfu suitable for country folk who have to work in the fields and tend animals. Historically, such people would have worn a type of unisex hanfu called 裋褐/shuhe. Shuhe goes by a few other names, including 短打/duanda, 短褐/duanhe, and 竖褐/shuhe. They all refer to a two-piece set of attire composed of a cross-collar top that extends to the knees, coupled with tied trousers. Both pieces were typically made out of coarse cloth. It is the basis of almost all underclothing, usually the clothing worn under armor, and the casual outfit of commoners and laborers (x). This outfit was generally worn by people doing manual labor, such as farm work, and by martial artists (x).

I wrote about shuhe in my post on casual/adventurer-type hanfu here. For more information on shuhe, I recommend checking out the following links:

Wikipedia article on 衫裤/shanku

Patterns for shuhe-making

Shuhe-making tutorial

A few images of shuhe in historical art & modern day (1, 2, 3, 4):

Shuhe understandably isn't as popular as other "fancier" hanfu styles, but there are still some available on Taobao, including the following:

Farmer-style shuhe for spring & autumn from 華夏节奏 (x):

2. Ming-style ramie shuhe from 淮边筱竹 (x):

3. Tailor-made Ming-style shuhe from 淮边筱竹 (x):

4. Ming-style quilted cotton winter shuhe from 淮边筱竹 (x):

For more references, please see my shuhe and commoners hanfu tags.

If anyone has more info/recs, please share! ^^

Hope this helps!

[angstandhappiness]

INTERESTING

chinese folk fashion in song dynasty

[spock-adoodledoo]

jinshi looks more handsome w his hair up sry

[zhengzi]

omg i finally found a shop that does the commoner style of hanfu

they even have great modernized pieces

I've been looking through their inventory and they have such good pieces, man i wish i can afford it

shop: nuwa hanfu

[peekofhistory]

I got a few responses from my last post that people were interested in my experience learning to play/make the Guqin, so I'll add those posts in to my Hanfu posts :D

History The Guqin (古琴)is a very ancient and important instrument in Chinese history. Originally it was simply called "Qin" but later on "Qin" also became used for other instruments such as piano (gangqin/钢琴), violin (xiaotiqin/小提琴), etc. so "Gu" was added to the beginning ("Gu" means historical/very old/ancient).

The earliest form of Guqin comes from the Warring States period about 2500 years ago, although some records indicate the instrument existed even earlier. There is a saying in Chinese, "君子六艺", meaning the six skills all 'gentlemen' must learn under Confucian teachings. This included the Guqin (kind of like how everyone needs to learn English, math, science in school today).

Warrings States Guqin

Because of how the Guqin is played, there is a belief that the emotions of the player will affect their playing. In addition, those who are familiar with Guqin can listen to a piece and know the emotional state of the musician. There are many stories surrounding this instrument that has garnered it a lot of cultural and historical value to the Chinese civilization. China chose to put the famous Guqin piece, "Flowing Water"(流水) in the Voyager Golden Record sent to space by NASA in 1977 because of its cultural significance.

Styles + parts The Guqin is a slender instrument. Modern-day Guqin has 7 strings that are plucked to create sound. Above the strings is a set of 13 dots called "hui"(徽), these indicate where the left hand plays.

The instrument is made from 2 pieces of wood, the top portion has a slight upward curve that represents the Heavens (no religions connotation), and the bottom board is flat representing the Earth (historically, people though the Earth was flat). A standard Guqin is 3 "chi/尺" 6.5 "cun/寸" which is approximately 125cm, representing the 365 days of the year (this length can vary, however), and the 13 "hui/徽" represents the 13 months (of the lunar calendar).

There are many styles of Guqin, each with its own unique name. Guqin owners will sometimes name their Guqin and carve it into the bottom. It's also common for owners of famous Guqin to carve a line or two of poetry on the bottom of the Guqin. Currently, the most commonly found and classical style of Guqin is "Zhongni/仲尼" (which was also the courtesy name of Confucius, marking its significance).

Guqin with names and poetry carved into the bottom

Score Traditional Guqin score gave no indication of rhythm or tempo. It was purely a score to indicate finger positions and stroke technique. Students learned the overall rhythm of a piece from their teacher.

The Guqin score takes parts of Chinese characters to indicate which string is to be played, by which hand, using which finger, etc. Because of this, the score is called "jianzipu/减字谱" meaning simplified characters score.

Traditional Guqin score

Modern day Guqin score

How to read Guqin score Pic 1: Blue - Right hand only (散音) Orange - 6th string (六弦) Green - Right forefinger flick outwards (挑)

Pic 2: Blue - Right hand only Orange - 7th string (七弦) Green - Right forefinger flick outwards Pic 3: Blue - Left hand ring finger slide up to the 10th "hui" (dot) (无名指上十徽) Orange - 5th string (五弦) Green - Right middle finger pluck towards yourself (勾)

Pic 4: Green - Right hand pluck 2 strings at the same time (拨) Orange - 7th and 6th strings (七弦，六弦) Blue - Left thumb slide up to 7.6 "hui" on the 7th string, no left hand for 6th string

Pic 5: Green - Right hand flight+pluck 2 strings at same time (小撮) Orange - 7th and 5th strings (七弦，五弦) Blue - Left thumb press down 7th string at 9th "hui", no left hand for 5th string

My brain is a giant ball of confusion the first dozen times I play a a section as it tries to figure out all this information and relay it to my fingers xDD

Sound There are 3 types of sounds students learn when playing the Guqin:

1) Sanyin (散音) Only the right hand is used to pluck/flick the string

2) Fanyin (泛音) The right hand plucks/flicks the string while the left hand gently taps the string at the indicated "hui (徽)"

3) Anyin/Zouyin (按音/走音) The right hand plucks/flicks the string while the left hand presses down the string at the indicated "hui". To make the sound smoother, the string is pressed down slightly above/below the hui then slides up/down the string to the indicated hui creating a very unique sound to the Guqin

Guqin's tone tends to be in the lower range, its pieces are generally slow-paced. The instrument is quite soft, historically used for personal enjoyment or played in a small gathering of close friends, and not meant for large performances. The Guqin is often played as a solo instrument, or with the Chinese flute (dizi/笛子), rather than in large orchestras as its soft sound can be easily overpowered. Today, Guqin performances use microphones for amplification.

Guqin vs. Guzheng Many people confuse the Guqin and Guzheng. The two instruments share some similarities but vary greatly in appearance and sound.

Shape: Guqin: wider at the head (right hand side) and narrows towards the feet. Guzheng: rectangular

Strings: Guqin: 7 Guzheng: 22 strings (usually)

Sound: Guqin: lower octaves (unless playing fanyin), softer, more suitable for solo playing Guzheng: higher octaves, louder, more suitable for large performances

Bridge: Guqin: near the head of the instrument, unmoveable Guzheng: usually placed diagonally mid-instrument, can be moved

In some Chinese period dramas, they will use the Guzheng to dub for Guqin because given it's louder capabilities it's easier to record (but if you're familiar with the two instruments it's easy to tell them apart by ear).

My experience with Guqin I first learned of the Guqin when I was around 8-9 years old, through a Chinese TV series called Romance of the Three Kingdoms (lol, I keep mentioning this series, but I really do love it a lot).

I purchased my first Guqin at the end of 2019, but only managed a few classes before a certain pandemic hit. Because of this, I stopped my classes (my city didn't have any Guqin teachers, I had to drive 3 hrs one way to see her and during lockdown it was just too difficult). I tried to pick it up again a few years later but failed.

Currently, on my trip in China, I came across a Guqin workshop that was offering classes on how to play and make Guqin. The tuition includes room and meals. The workshop is in the rural countryside, no shopping malls, no city chaos, and I thought this was the perfect opportunity to learn Guqin.

I've only been here for about a week but so far the experience has been wonderful. There are only 2 other students besides me (the teacher is only accepting 3 students maximum), we all live here. Upstairs is our living area (the teacher doesn't live here), we get up at 7am, eat breakfast at 8am, practice Guqin, have lunch, then make Guqin in the afternoon. Sometimes the teacher takes us to meet other Guqin teachers/makers in the area. Everyone has dozens of Qin in their residences, we literally go in, pick up and Qin, and start playing.

Yesterday, our teacher took us to a Guqin workshop on a small mountain. I later learned the mountain is actually a tomb of a duke/marquis from the Han Dynasty. I also learned people will actually make Guqin out of coffin lumber (like, grave rob a tomb, break down the coffin, and sell the wood)…so if you want to purchase a Guqin and the shop owner tells you a particular Qin is made from lumber that's a thousand years old…you should think hard about HOW they got lumber that old O.O;; Luckily for me, my teacher refuses to let coffin wood into his workshop, he says it has bad energy.

Anyway, here's a short video of my Guqin-making progress so far :D

[angstandhappiness]

INTERESTING

doodled yanyan in some peasants clothing from late republic/early communist era and song dynasty 🐦

reference for song dynasty peasant's hanfu here

[fouryearsofshades]

愿以吾辈之青春，捍卫盛世之中华！ “世界是你们的，也是我们的，但是归根结底是你们的。你们青年人朝气蓬勃，正在兴旺时期，好像早晨七八点钟的太阳。希望寄托在你们身上。” 同志们，国庆快乐！ 汉洋折衷#汉洋折衷#汉服#汉洋折衷·社会主义#

令儀鸭 in a cross-collar short shan + short mamianqun + ku + weiyao weaved by her own grandma's mother ("直领大襟窄袖短衫+短马面+袴+阿婆的妈妈自己织染的老布围腰")

[mtkay13]

Wen Kexing!! My focus here was to channel his coolness even through warm colors, and to get his... "essential vibes" through one picture. More (rambling) below! (this is essentially a post about WKX's personality)

A big case can be made about "who or what is the 'true' Wen Kexing". So; let's be real, I don't know if anyone makes a "big case" out of it, but I sure have seen people seemingly arguing against a vague 'common opinion' regarding Wen Kexing's personality. The """common""" opinion (allegedly): the true Wen Kexing is [insert one of WKX's facets] (or something along those lines) The case against it: all Wen Kexing's are the true Wen Kexing Now I do agree with the fact that "all Wen Kexing's" are Wen Kexing, technically. For clarity, let's list and name those various facets (most are commonly accepted, some I'll just name on the go): - Wen Kexing: I'll use his full name for the personality we're first met with in the book. Someone cold, rather quiet, analytical and distant. Giving off strange vibes in social situations (ZZS thinking he's weird, other jianghu figures being creeped out by him or thinking that he's up to no good), contemptuous - Philantropist Wen: The more extravagant, (bullshit) storyteller, outrageous and shameless flirting enthusiast version of WKX. - Valley Master Wen: cold, calculating, quiet, cruel, unbelievably patient, dislikes fun and games, barely feels anything - Wife Wen: The over the top dramatic wife whose life is made difficult by his difficult and shameless husband, essentially a lot of roleplaying the good littol domestic wife and whatnot - The wooden man: similar as Valley Master but demure and apparently subservient? (for calculated purposes) Okay they could be more I guess, but the point is, we have an array of WKX personas and personalities and the actual consensus (I think, my sample is like 10 people so....) is that every one of those is "true" to WKX and that not one of them is a fully constructed persona. Now, while I agree, I guess that what I wonder is: what is WKX in his resting state? If nothing is happening and that he's not in a particularly social or specific situation, what do we get to see? I think that the answer mostly resides in extra 4, which is an INCREDIBLE retelling of TYK from WKX's perspective; someone who thinks quite a lot, and for long, someone who observes things with distance and little to no emotion. Someone who is used to having one goal (revenge, taking care of ZZS during his coma), and who will probably go through a lot of quiet thinking when finally faced with the void of not having one specific thing to aim for. Someone who will have to learn to find joy/happiness, and who probably doesn't... get there "naturally"? (and by that I mean, without ZZS or without directly following ZZS around). Someone whose ties to his own emotions have been severed a long time ago, I guess. Someone still quite contemptuous of many things and people and who has a whole life he didn't plan for or even consider ahead of him. Which is............ what I tried to draw............ here..................... (That and also I wanted to draw a pretty looking hanfu in sepia colors) (but I SWEAR that was not the main goal) (I think) (anyway please ignore me)

[lotusloong]

The Different Wukongs Romantic Date Ideas!

Has LMK, MKHIB, MKR, and NGNR Wukong. (Some hints of spice but nothing explicit)

LMK Wukong - 

Now years ago, Wukong would have been all about that night life. Common dates would include you guys sneaking into the domains of Gods and Demons alike to pull all kinds of pranks, to steal from them, to piss them off. 

He would have dragged you to so many parties for you both to drink and dance the night away like nobody's business! 

But things are different now.

He’s retired, he’s got a kid, he’s older and suffered the consequences of past mistakes…After everything that's happened in his long life, he really wants to relax now.

So date nights are a lot simpler and in a way, more romantic than they used to be.

Instead of getting lost in a crowd drinking and dancing, he takes you to hidden spots around the border of Megapolis, with stunning views and hole-in-the-wall restaurants that serve the best foods.

He spends most of the night just talking with you, sharing interesting things you both saw, new jokes you’ve heard, talking about your unofficial adopted son and his progress. It’s all very domestic.

This includes lots of hand holding and kissing, his tail wrapping around you (if you have a tail of your own both are intertwined for the majority of the night as you sit together), heads pressing together as you lay on each other’s shoulders and gaze out at the night sky…

And if you’re open to it, kissing and hand holding leads to more, and he’s never been more thankful that he finally has a successor to watch out for disasters and demons attacking the city, because it means he gets to spend hours tied up in bed with you and your smell surrounding him.

Sometimes he gets a little insecure about these changes, asking if you’d rather go do something crazy and wild like the old days, but it’s a relief for him to hear that you’re happy as you are now. 

Even though he still gets the itch to cause mischief, he’d really much rather spend his time wrapped up in your arms enjoying noodles and Monkey King reruns.

HIB Wukong - 

Probably one of the more romantic Wukongs to take you out on dates. He would dedicate a lot of time to making sure you enjoyed yourself when with him, giving you small trinkets he either made or found that reminded him of you, nice hanfus he found for sale at local villages marketplaces, even the occasional bouquet of flowers! He liked boasting about how well he treats his partner.

But things are different now. You have kids.

As much as you love the two children in your charge, with their chubby cheeks and adoration for your monkey husband, they can be…a lot.

Sometimes parents need alone time, and sometimes you take that alone time however you can get it.

So after hounding Pigsy to watch over them for a night (and then asking Fa Ming to help because you both realize what a terrible idea that is) you can hurry away for a night of togetherness.

It’s nothing fancy, Wukong doesn’t have the time to set up and prepare like he used to, but it’s still sweet and thoughtful.

A quiet picnic under the stars and moon, you snuggled into his side as you talk and kiss like you haven’t been able to for months since you became unofficial parents.

It isn’t long before Wukong is pulling you to sit in his lap, his arms and tail looping around you to hold you close as he buries his nose into your hair. You bury your face into his chest in response, both of you simply breathing the other in and enjoying the peace and quiet.

And well, being parents means that more intimate times have to be put on hold often as well, so you appreciate the quiet change of pace even more so. He’s able to lose himself in you for hours with no fighting, no demon attacks, no screaming…well, you scream for him, but that's just a mark of pride for him that he’s doing his job as your mate right.

When you come back to your campsite it's to the delight of your kids, who immediately tackle you both to show off the games they played and the new toys Fa Ming brought them for the night. Wukong knows he owes the old man quite a debt.

MKR Wukong - 

Not gonna lie, probably the least romantic out of all the Wukongs.

Now don’t get me wrong, he tries! He uh…really tries…

But he’s the most practical of the Wukongs, the most hardened. It took you forever to wiggle between the cracks in the walls surrounding his heart, and now that you’re there he really doesn’t know how to handle his feelings.

He’s a demon, and for the longest time he was convinced he didn’t even have a heart to give to someone else. It wasn’t until he met you and Fruity that he realized the lump of stone in his chest could ache and feel.

So romance isn’t his forte. He just never really thought about it before you came along.

To him, a peaceful night is one where Bajie and Wujing aren’t pissing him off and that his Master and you are safe under his protection. 

He doesn’t realize at first that a peaceful night does not necessarily equal a romantic night. You’ll have to tell him what it is you want for dates, because otherwise he doesn’t have a clue.

He may act standoffish at first, but inside he’s grateful you’re taking the initiative to tell him, so he doesn’t have to guess and flounder over what a ‘proper’ date is.

“I would like something a bit more romantic? Nothing extravagant just…a nice view of the stars with some good dinner, some hand holding and cuddling…maybe something more…?” His arms are folded across his chest as he glances away from you, trying not to blush at your words. The image of you next to him under a flowering tree, the sun setting and revealing the moon and stars twinkling overhead with you pressed against his side…

Okay, yes, he can see why romance is something so many mortals (and even immortals) daydream about. He just needs to learn how to speak it’s language.

Be patient with him, tell him upfront what it is you would like to see during dates, and ask him in return what he would like! He’s going through a lot of first times with you and doesn’t know that he’s allowed to ask for romance back.

The first time you get him a trinket from the marketplace, or a bouquet of wildflowers with the excuse that they reminded you of him, it has him blushing so hot you swear steam was coming off him.

NGNR  Wukong - 

Now Nezha Reborn Wukong is very similar to Lego Wukong in that he’s older and has calmed down since his wild younger days, but he’s also a bit more world weary and tired.

He still has plenty of energy, but he doesn’t see any point in acting with the rest of the world because no matter what he does, the world ends up in chaos again and again and again…

To put it simply, he’s a bit depressed.

Having you, someone he can rely on and who will support him as the years go by, is very important. It takes time, but eventually he’ll start to venture out more, get involved with the world a little more! Definitely don’t be afraid to ask Li and his friends for help either. Li looks to Wukong as family after everything he’s done for him.

So unlike Lego Wukong, Nezha Reborn does actually like getting into some hijinks still. He runs a (possibly illegal) race track, does under the table dealings, the works. He’s not afraid to get a little dirty for the sake of having fun.

He does however, make sure the fun you both have is safe for you. Gods and demons can get pissed at him all they like, but no one is allowed to harm you.

Dates consist of wild joyrides on his bike around Donghai, going to the occasional club or restaurant, and even sightseeing on the borders of town. He always knows where the best spots are in the city to watch firework shows or races or concerts.

He does really enjoy going to dance clubs however, that's a favorite activity.

Getting a pretty thing like you dancing, grinding against him and showing everyone around you both that you're his…He’ll be dragging you home with a giddy laugh, canines on full display with his grin.

Some nights are not so great however. Sometimes the pointlessness of everything comes rushing back to him, and he can’t even muster the energy to get out of bed, much less get dressed and prettied up for a night on the town.

Best thing to do in this situation? Coax him onto the couch with snacks and ice cream, and have a movie night. Share a blankie with him, hold him close to your chest as you lay back, and just brush your fingers through his wild mane of hair. You will have one satisfied, purring puddle of monkey within moments.

[angstandhappiness]

INTERESTING

chinese hanfu by 花夕树国风原创工作室

[redsugarx]

Hanfu in Components: Hanfu Anatomy, Skirts & Pants (pt 3.2)

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More anatomy terminology things as promised :0000 There are lots of different kinds of skirts and pants, but in general they all wrap around your waist or chest and are secured by some kind of tie. They're usually much simpler than the tops.

裙頭/裙头/QUN2 TOU2/SKIRT HEAD

Same thing as waistband, applies to pants and skirt. We call it a “head” because it’s at the top of the garment and the body of it follows. This can vary in width depending on whether you’re looking at a standard waist-high skirt or a 訶子裙/诃子裙/he1 zi0 qun2/Hezi style skirt-dress, which has a very wide skirt head that looks more like the bodice of a strapless dress.

The horizontal length is usually made to be approximately 1.5x the waist measurement of the wearer to allow for ample overlap when wrapped around the waist. Might be called 褲頭/裤头/ku4 tou2/pants head for pants or 腰頭/腰头/yao1 tou2/waist head in general.

繫帶/系带/XI4 DAI4/RIBBON

Usually translated as a ribbon or tie, two long ribbons each attached on one end of the skirt head so that you can secure the garment around your body. Some styles will also have one long ribbon come separately from the skirt itself and instead attach loops on either side of the skirt head that the ribbon goes through, but this style is less common nowadays. Some styles will also have four small ties rather than two large ones.

孔/KONG3/HOLE

A slot made in the skirt head to pass the tie/ribbon that’s stuck on the inside through to the outside. This is a modification from the traditional cut of hanfu, but it has become so ubiquitous that it’s practically the standard now.

肩带/JIAN1 DAI4/SHOULDER STRAPS

Applies to 齊胸/齐胸/qi2 xiong1/chest-high skirts. Shoulder straps can be sewn on or removable and attached via a hook and loop.

擺/摆/BAI3/‘SWING’

Can refer to different things based on context. 下擺 Refers to the bottom hemline of the garment, with 下 meaning down/bottom. 擺 alone literally means ‘swing’ or ‘swish.’ When used alone or combined with 裙 for 裙擺, it’s referring to how much fabric has been used in the body of the skirt, measured by the stretched-out unpleated total length of the hemline. The lightest skirts have a 3-meter bai, with 4.5m and 6m also being standard.

褶/ZHE2,3/PLEAT

Fold or pleat. Almost all hanfu skirts have either 順褶/顺褶/shun4 zhe2,3/knife pleats or 工字褶/gong1 zi4 zhe2,3/box pleats. Sometimes also written as 折, which is pronounced the same way meaning 'fold,' but usually this refers to a crease in paper or the action of folding something rather than a pleat. Pronunciation caveat: zhe2 is standard in Taiwan, zhe3 is standard in China.

裙門/裙门/QUN2 MEN2/SKIRT DOOR

Applies to Ming Dynasty 馬面裙/马面裙/ma3 mian4 qun2/horse-faced skirt. Smooth unpleated face of a skirt. Similar to the 光面 of Song Dynasty baidiequn.

光面/GUANG1 MIAN4/EMPTY FACE

Applies to Song Dynasty 百迭裙/bai3 die2 qun2/hundred-layer skirt. Smooth unpleated face of a skirt. Apologies for the bad picture, this one is made of linen and the boundaries between the pleats are lowkey really hard to see x-x

破/PO4/PANEL

Applies to 破裙/po4 qun2/‘broken skirt.’ 破 means broken, colloquially; when referring to the 破 of a skirt you are referring to one of the trapezoidal or rectangular panels of the skirt.

襠/裆/DANG1/CROTCH

Crotch area of pants. Pants can usually be classified as either 開襠/开裆/kai1 dang1/open-crotch or 合襠/合裆/he2 dang1/closed-crotch.

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[sirenalpha]

I'm seeing so much commentary on people reacting to the live action atla toning down Sokka's misogyny

and I'm over here like this is a total non-issue because in my own rewrite of the show I already did that exact thing, it makes complete sense to do it and they should do it because it's a weaker aspect of the original show

Sokka's early misogyny is utterly cartoonish in comparison to the set up of the rest of the SWT, it doesn't feel realistic for the only teenaged boy in a dying culture surrounded by adult women with a grandmother who left a more out and out misogynist society to act the way he does

how Sokka "resolves" his misogyny is equally cartoonish, I never liked how in The Warriors of Kyoshi literally episode 4 of the show makes a teen girl compromise her own culture with a female only fighting tradition teach a boy who is supremely rude and disrespectful to her and then still be attracted to him afterwards, it's more misogyny to fix misogyny and is very obviously men writing about how to fix misogyny especially as they have Aang make a joke about Sokka wearing a dress after going through how meaningful the fighting costume is and how a lot of Asian clothing with hanfu influences like atla borrows from would have men in what to western eyes would be dresses, Aang has already seen multiple male authority figures in robes, the joke makes no sense

I also wouldn't consider Sokka's misogyny genuinely resolved after this, consider how the show deals with his romantic relationships with both Yue and Suki and how both can be seen as extensions of how Kataang is treated in the show, rewards for the hero, especially with how Sokka interacts aggressively with Hahn instead of respecting Yue's wishes whatever her reasons for them, I think an argument can be made that Yue's death is a fridging for Sokka's storyline rather than or in combination with being a consequence of Aang's failure as an avatar or the culmination of her own storyline where she fulfills her duties as a leader to protect her own people

Beyond his romantic relationships, while Sokka drops a lot of his more misogynistic language with Katara, he doesn't support her when she faces off with the NWT leaders to learn waterbending, and he still leaves the caretaking and food preparation and grocery shopping to her which is more common than him going out to hunt or gather in order to provide for the group while he takes a leadership role like determining their travel schedule and routes, it is not an even division of labor and falls along traditional sex stereotypes

In addition to his typical duties to the group, Sokka also remains invested in the trappings of masculinity after ep4, he's concerned about what's manly and how he compares to Jet for example, there's no investigation or interrogation in his interest in meat and hunting and how they relate to masculinity and his misogyny, in the episode with Piando, his insecurity as a non-bender is resolved by giving him a new male mentor and a new martial skill, sword fighting, which is masculine in both western and Asian cultures rather than assuaging his self esteem issues in any less stereotypically masculine ways, I also think it was done so he could compare more favorably to Zuko, another male character, and even his interest in engineering and mechanics comes with a male mentor and is a traditionally masculine pursuit

the show's poor handling of misogyny also extends beyond Sokka, with the NWT, the show acts as if Pakku is the only reason the tribe is misogynistic and the only consequences to that misogyny is that women can't waterbend and there are arranged marriages, and that both the NWT and Pakku's misogyny is resolved by allowing only Katara to learn to waterbend which she doesn't even earn on her own merits, she gets the opportunity because Pakku likes her grandmother

none of this is realistic, misogyny is not because of one bad apple, Pakku doesn't make Yue's arranged marriage, Chief Arnook does, he picked Hahn for her, and the show acts as if Arnook has no authority to compel Pakku to teach Katara or any ability to persuade him in order to reduce his culpability in the NWT's misogyny as its leader to make him a more respectable character so it's not uncomfortable when Aang and Sokka follow his orders in the battle later on, but women not being able to bend and forced into arranged marriages is still status quo when the gaang leaves, Yue's just dead

I'm not even convinced the show runners understand what's wrong with arranged marriage, the issue is not Yue can't be with Sokka who she likes and at most has a slight crush on cuz she's only known him for like two days, it's that she's being treated as male property, a broodmare, and a vehicle to ensure Hahn receives the throne because her father has no male heir and picked some guy to succeed him instead, like it's not explicit in the show but that is the implication based on the historical reality of princesses in arranged marriages, and the show has her get out of it only through death idc that she ascends to being a spirit, it's still a teen girl that dies

There's also no discussion by the show of the Earth Kingdom's misogyny when it has the exact same shit going on, Toph is the only female earthbender in the show not including avatars, there might have been a female earthbender in the background when Katara broke them out of prison, but I'm not really counting that, the entire army and Dai Li are all made up of men, the EK might even be worse because the show doesn't demonstrate that women and girls even have the capacity to earthbend aside from Toph and avatars and Toph doesn't even learn from a human, she has to learn from animals, the show treats this as commentary on her disability but the show has no compelling reason why it can't also be commentary on her sex, Toph was also originally supposed to be a boy so this could have ended up so much worse there literally would have been no female earthbenders aside from avatars at all, I'm not counting Oma as she might just be a mythological figure not a real person that once lived

The Fire Nation kinda barely avoids the same issue, Azula is the only named female firebender aside from avatars in the show but she has two female sidekicks who despite being non-benders show martial skill and there are clearly female soldiers and guards in the FN military so there are much stronger implications of female firebenders existing and being completely allowed to train their abilities and that Azula isn't exceptional in that respect like Toph is, only for being a prodigy with blue fire

Azula was also originally supposed to have an arranged marriage in s3 and they dropped it in favor of showing that royal and noble girls could casually date in the FN which has wild implications for women's empowerment in the country more so than but especially in combination with the fact women can train and join the military (which is why I say the FN is not fascist it's literally the least misogynistic country aside from Kyoshi and by like a country mile so it's literally not misogynistic enough) not that the show does anything more than minor teen drama with it

again, the vast majority of this misogyny is completely unremarked upon by the show especially after s1 when they leave the NWT, it is clearly a fictional world made by men with no true understanding of misogyny just a vague awareness that misogyny is bad and what the really obvious and outdated examples of it are, this is a narrative inconsistency in the show to have the examples and commentary on misogyny be so cartoonish in the beginning and then disappear after s1

your options to resolve this inconsistency is to either go all in with more realistic misogyny and provide commentary on all of it but this takes effort and will be divisive, or take the easier route and ease off the cartoonish-ness of it and comment less on it to avoid drawing attention to all instances of misogyny in the show

obviously Netflix was gonna do the latter

(not me tho, I'm making it less cartoony and dealing with it in my rewrite)