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Made in the USA: Wage Theft, Fraud and Hidden Sweatshops
Unrolled twitter thread by derek guy (@dieworkwear)
4 Oct 24 • Read on X
ALT enabled on all images. Video has closed captions but is not transcribed.
Not trying to create a pile-on here. But let's talk about why something might still be made in unethical conditions even though it bears a "made in USA" tag. 🧵
The first thing to understand is that not all workers are covered by US labor laws. You might assume that workers get paid a minimum wage (after all, it says "minimum"). In fact, many garment workers in the US toil under what's known as the piecework system.
Piecework means you get paid not by the amount of time you work but the number of operations you complete. This system should be familiar to many of you. As a writer, I get paid per word. The pay is the same whether it takes me 100 or 10 hours to write a 1,000 word article.
My situation is fine bc I get paid enough to eat. But for a garment worker, the pay structure can be peanuts: three cents to sew a zipper or sleeve, five cents for a collar, and seven cents to prepare the top part of a skirt. These are real numbers for LA-based garment workers.
Piecework is how companies skirt minimum wage laws. Among labor organizers, the term "wage theft" refers to the difference between what a worker should have earned under min wage laws and what they actually earned through the piece rate system.
This system is incredibly common. A 2016 UCLA Labor Center study showed the median piece-rate worker in Los Angeles scrapes together $5.15 per hour—less than half the state’s mandated minimum wage. Labor conditions are also very bad: poor ventilation, dusty air, rats and mice.
A Federal Department of Labor investigation the same year found that 85 percent of Los Angeles garment factories were breaking labor laws. In 2016, these violations amounted to $1.3 million in back wages owed to 865 workers in a sample of 77 factories. This is wage theft.
In 2021, labor organizers won a fight to get piecework banned in California. But two years later, it's still incredibly common. I interviewed an LA-based garment worker who toils 12 hrs a day for $50. She sleeps in the corner of a kitchen. From my article in The Nation:
Currently, there's a new fight get piecework banned nationwide through the FABRC Act. I would link, but Twitter throttles threads that have outbound links, so I would prefer if you Google how you can support this legislation. Or follow @GarmentWorkerLA for more info.
The other reason why a "made in USA" tag may not mean much has to do with how the label is applied.
When you see this label inside your garment, what do you assume? Think about this before moving on to the next tweet.
The Federal Trade Commission has pretty strict rules on who gets to apply that label. For clothes, the item has to be cut and sewn in the US using materials that were made in the US. The FTC tries to match its rules with the common understanding of what "made in US" means.
If you're a giant company like Levi's or LL Bean, you may have lawyers who are advising you on these rules. This is why you see labels like "imported," which means the item was made abroad. Or "made in the US from imported materials" when they can't meet the MiUSA standard.
But it's incredibly common for companies to violate FTC rules. In 2022, the FTC fined the pro-Trump brand Lions Not Sheep $211k for labeling their t-shirts "made in USA" when the shirts were actually imported from China and other countries.
The company was basically importing blanks from China, ripping out the "made in China" label, screen printing the shirt in the US, and then applying a new screen-printed "made in US" label. CEO Sean Whalen claimed he was being persecuted for his pro-Trump views.
But the whole thing started bc Whalen made a video about how his customers are price sensitive, so he imports blanks from China. That's what kicked off the FTC investigation. So while this mislabeling is common, it's hard to get caught unless you make a video about your crimes.
The truth is that making a t-shirt in the USA according to FTC standards will result in a relatively expensive garment. Heddels and Velva Sheen both produce shirts in the US from US grown cotton. The first is $26; second is $90 for a two-pack.
Once you add things such as screenprinting—or if you want a more unique cut and not just basic blanks—the costs go up. This is why Bikers for Trump sourced their merch from Haiti. They knew their customers would not pay an extra $8 for true made-in-USA production.
Today, there are countless companies that make merch for other organizations. They source their t-shirts from a variety of places—some made in the US, most not—and then screenprint a design and fulfill orders. This way, the other org doesn't have to do any work but marketing.
When you see a screenprinted t-shirt for $20, ask yourself: Where was the material grown? Where were the yarns spun? Where was the cutting, sewing, and finishing performed? Where was the screenprinted done? What were the wages and labor conditions along these steps?
I'm not a nationalist, so I don't prioritize American jobs over foreign ones. But I do care about fair wages and labor protections. Just because something was made abroad doesn't mean it was made in a sweatshop. Just because it was made in the US doesn't mean fair wages.
Paying more for a garment is also no guarantee of ethical manufacturing. But when the price of a garment is so low, you leave little on the table for workers. Just because you see a $20 t-shirt that says "made in USA" doesn't mean it was made fairly.
Please don't harass the person who posted that original tweet. My intention is not to cause harm or stress for anyone. Only to help shed light on what goes into garment manufacturing, fair labor, and labeling. Hopefully, you will consider these issues when shopping.
For the inevitable question: "How do I make sure my clothes were made ethically?" This is very difficult to answer in a thread. My simplest answer is that we should elect pro-worker politicians, fight for pro-labor laws, and empower unions so workers can advocate for themselves.
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TL; DR: Doesn't matter if it's the US, if it's not union it's probably a sweatshop. And not all merch is priced high because of fair labour conditions (looking at Taylor Swift and Beyoncé). Look for supply chain transparency.
#sweatshops#fashion#american sweatshop#chappell roan merch#sweatshirt#chappell roan#merchandise#made in usa#garment industry#fast fashion#worker rights#labour rights#labour unions#capitalism#worker exploitation#us politics#us law#knee of huss
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made an album receipt thingy for the rise and fall of a midwest princess inspired by the chappell roan bandana!!
#chappell roan#the rise and fall of a midwest princess#chappell roan merch#chappell roan poster#wlw art#music#album reciept
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Merch Release 2.0!
It's what you've all been waiting for, an official Offside News Co merch drop. With 58 new designs, you won't want to miss this! Sort by newest for the best experience seeing the new pieces!
Check out the new designs here!
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🦇🖤Femininomenon skirt is now available for purchase. More to come🖤🦇
#Chappell roan#femininomenon#get it hot like papa john#pizza#hand painted#hand painted clothes#chappell roan art#thrift flip#pink camo#for sale#art#small business#vinted#upcycled clothing#depop#chappell roan merch#depop shop#small artist#fabric paint#custom alt clothing#diy#custom#chappell roan fanart#commissions#chaotic_ace_arts
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pink pony club✨ (shirts available on my Etsy)
#created a lil acrylic painting of Chappell and made it into a shirt design for my Etsy#based on one of my fav songs🕺🕺#chappell roan#chappellsource#chappell fanart#pink pony club#rise and fall of a midwest princess#red wine supernova#music fanart#fan merch#hot to go#good luck babe#art#traditional art
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idk if there's anything you can do about it but someone is using your chappell hot to go art on teepublic & I thought you would want to know if u don't already :(
Nice. love this for me./s
uhhh anyways thank you for bringing this to my attention @hyuckieberry! I’m gonna try to figure out TeePublic’s DMCA takedown request. which is very frustrating since i am from the Philippines. and DMCA is very much bound to just the USA.
for now, if anyone sees this, PLEASE HELP ME REPORT the account.
If anyone is interested in buying the tshirt/design, please consider supporting me, its up on my Redbubble. the only place where i have uploaded the design.
Honestly, simply reblogging and liking this or the original post i made will help immensely.
#narwhal speaks#chappell roan#chappell roan fanart#chappell roan fan merch#I thought i was finally having a good day and i was so proud of myself because i finally managed to get out of bed#after having a fucking relapse#and now this????????#it fucking sucks because the more i look into the DMCA takedown request of TeePublic#which btw very labor intensive and full of legal jargon i am ill equipped to follow#ITS LIKE ONLY FOR THE US????????????#I am currently living breathing in the philippines unfortunately#anyways uuuhhh#i’m gonna go cry and maybe my rage/frustrations can help me figure something out#i’m gonna be sick#hopefully my rage and frustration will keep me from spiralling back into a depressed state lol.#is this what i get for bedrotting for months?#aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa#fuck me gently with a fucking chainsaw
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chappell roan lollapalooza ‘24 wrestling costume trading card by me, inspired by a bunch of 60s baseball card designs :)
#chappell roan fanart#chappell roan#the rise and fall of a midwest princess#midwest princess#femininomenon#chappellsource#fan art#fan merch
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you can take me hot to goooo🪄
#chappell roan f1 art spread wow Revolutionary#my 81232 loves#whats their pairing name#sargestribon..? loscarlex??#also anybody who can clock out the sinjin drowning merch ily#oscar piastri#op81#alex albon#aa23#logan sargeant#ls2#f1#formula 1#formula one#f1 art#digital art#artists on tumblr#jaemongusart
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Chappell Roan, the 26-year-old “Good Luck, Babe!” singer from Missouri, told the Guardian in an interview published Friday that she’s not planning to endorse anyone ahead of the November election, saying that there are “problems on both sides.” ��I have so many issues with our government in every way,” Roan told the Guardian. “There are so many things that I would want to change. So I don’t feel pressured to endorse someone. There’s problems on both sides. I encourage people to use your critical thinking skills, use your vote—vote small, vote for what’s going on in your city.”
Roan’s withholding of her endorsement shouldn’t come as a complete surprise, after the singer—who is known for promoting the LGBT community in her music and performances, and who fundraises for Palestinian aid—has taken previous political stands against the Biden-Harris administration, particularly over issues of transgender rights and the ongoing conflict in Gaza.
At the 2024 Governors Ball in New York in June, Roan revealed that she had declined an invitation to perform at the White House’s Pride festivities. “We want liberty, justice, and freedom for all,” she said. “When you do that, that’s when I’ll come.” Dressed in a Statue of Liberty costume on stage, Roan referred to Emma Lazarus’ poem on the monument: “But in case you had forgotten what’s etched on my pretty little toes: ‘Give me your tired, your poor, your huddled masses, yearning to breathe free,’” she said. “That means freedom in trans rights, that means freedom in women’s rights, and it especially means freedom for all oppressed people in occupied territories.”
Roan later explained to Rolling Stone that she did not want “to be a monkey for Pride,” summarizing her political outlook as “I’m pretty, ‘Fuck the government, and fuck everything that’s going on right now.’ I don’t have a side because I hate both sides, and I’m so embarrassed about everything going on right now.”
#chappell roan#us politics#sorry saw some recent mischaracterization of her political views gaining traction and it rubbed me the wrong way#and also if you receive this and you're like 'okay she's a republican got it' you're so lost in the blue sauce#that i cannot help you besides to say to you earnestly that you're missing the entire point#she also never said she wasn't going to vote and she doesn't even discourage people from voting!#she's very much asking ppl to tune into government she's NOT telling ppl to just tune out and do whatever bc none of it matters#she also got mad that the harris walz campaign duped some of her merch like i think it's fair to say she's not some machine dummy. thx
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satosugu acrylic standee i bought recently + a new chappell cd !! recently moved back to hk and there’s an abundance of anime merch here, also no tax >:)
#౨ৎ kentolvrs' pictures#jujutsu kaisen merch#satosugu#satoru gojo#suguru geto#acrylic standee#jjk merch#chappell roan#gojo satoru#geto suguru#jujutsu kaisen
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working on drawings for new stickers! ❤💕💖
#new art#my art#illustrator#illustration#ttpd#chappell roan#the eras tour#whos afraid of little old me#taylor swift#ts#fortnight#fortnight mv#fan art#taylor swift fan art#the rise and fall of a midwest princess#npr tiny desk concert#pride month#musician#pop girls#pop girlies#the tortured poets department#concerts#femininomenon#hot to go#stickers#merch#handmade#sticker#art#drawing
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Comissions open for memorabilia concert tickets
Have you been to a show and the ticket is the absolute ugliest shit you've ever seen? Like this:
🤢
Are you going to a show and want a memory to hold onto? Maybe your ticket is only digital and you want a physical token. Maybe you're giving a concert ticket as a gift and would like it to be prettier.
I'm your gal! The above is just one example of a personalized ticket i made for @langdonsluxiouslocks . I also made her this one:
Here's some I made for me an my dad, these were my first ever ones 🥹
I will never ask for a copy of the real ticket nor would i advise you to send it unless the show is over.
The ticket will be a digital file available for download and you can print it however (and however many!) you like.
I will design it according to your show, the tour and the location with elements that fit the artist's theme. I can do this with any band/artist you like such as My Chemical Romance, Sabrina Carpenter, Chappell Roan, etc etc. Please know rap or country artists may take me a while longer since i'm not as familiar with those genres and i want to do research for inspo ✨️
Just let me know the location + venue, date, row/seat (optional) and any other details you may like to add. Dm me or hit me up on ko-fi!
This is in a pay what you want basis btw but min is $5, I am currently unemployed again and struggling a bit so i'd appreciate shares ❤️🙏🏼
#i would put a listing on etsy but it would be taken down for copyright ofc#i also accept payments through paypal#token#concert tickets#memorabilia#mcr#sabrina carpenter#chappell roan#pearl jam#red hot chili peppers#metallica#bands#design#band merch#band memorabilia#comissions open#art comissions
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roan of arc
#my works#chappell roan#chappell fanart#chappell roan vmas#good luck babe#roan of arc#graphic design#poster design#flyer design#merch design
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I’d really appreciate it if my besties here could reblog this post. I’ve been unemployed since November and I’m really struggling this month especially. Sales are down. I can’t find anything I’m qualified for. This store is my only source of income since my beaded jewelry business did not take off.
https://www.etsy.com/shop/cruelmidnights
#my merch#fan made merch#etsy#taylor swift#chappell roan#boygenius#muna#maisie peters#sabrina carpenter#lana del rey#gracie abrams
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he’s truly a mood
#helluva boss#helluva blitzo#blitzø#helluva boss blitz#helluva boss blitzo#helluva boss memes#chappell roan#helluva boss merch#helluva boss plushies#Blitzø plushie
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