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Here's how to help support those making your shows!
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Made in the USA: Wage Theft, Fraud and Hidden Sweatshops
Unrolled twitter thread by derek guy (@dieworkwear)
4 Oct 24 • Read on X
ALT enabled on all images. Video has closed captions but is not transcribed.
Not trying to create a pile-on here. But let's talk about why something might still be made in unethical conditions even though it bears a "made in USA" tag. 🧵
The first thing to understand is that not all workers are covered by US labor laws. You might assume that workers get paid a minimum wage (after all, it says "minimum"). In fact, many garment workers in the US toil under what's known as the piecework system.
Piecework means you get paid not by the amount of time you work but the number of operations you complete. This system should be familiar to many of you. As a writer, I get paid per word. The pay is the same whether it takes me 100 or 10 hours to write a 1,000 word article.
My situation is fine bc I get paid enough to eat. But for a garment worker, the pay structure can be peanuts: three cents to sew a zipper or sleeve, five cents for a collar, and seven cents to prepare the top part of a skirt. These are real numbers for LA-based garment workers.
Piecework is how companies skirt minimum wage laws. Among labor organizers, the term "wage theft" refers to the difference between what a worker should have earned under min wage laws and what they actually earned through the piece rate system.
This system is incredibly common. A 2016 UCLA Labor Center study showed the median piece-rate worker in Los Angeles scrapes together $5.15 per hour—less than half the state’s mandated minimum wage. Labor conditions are also very bad: poor ventilation, dusty air, rats and mice.
A Federal Department of Labor investigation the same year found that 85 percent of Los Angeles garment factories were breaking labor laws. In 2016, these violations amounted to $1.3 million in back wages owed to 865 workers in a sample of 77 factories. This is wage theft.
In 2021, labor organizers won a fight to get piecework banned in California. But two years later, it's still incredibly common. I interviewed an LA-based garment worker who toils 12 hrs a day for $50. She sleeps in the corner of a kitchen. From my article in The Nation:
Currently, there's a new fight get piecework banned nationwide through the FABRC Act. I would link, but Twitter throttles threads that have outbound links, so I would prefer if you Google how you can support this legislation. Or follow @GarmentWorkerLA for more info.
The other reason why a "made in USA" tag may not mean much has to do with how the label is applied.
When you see this label inside your garment, what do you assume? Think about this before moving on to the next tweet.
The Federal Trade Commission has pretty strict rules on who gets to apply that label. For clothes, the item has to be cut and sewn in the US using materials that were made in the US. The FTC tries to match its rules with the common understanding of what "made in US" means.
If you're a giant company like Levi's or LL Bean, you may have lawyers who are advising you on these rules. This is why you see labels like "imported," which means the item was made abroad. Or "made in the US from imported materials" when they can't meet the MiUSA standard.
But it's incredibly common for companies to violate FTC rules. In 2022, the FTC fined the pro-Trump brand Lions Not Sheep $211k for labeling their t-shirts "made in USA" when the shirts were actually imported from China and other countries.
The company was basically importing blanks from China, ripping out the "made in China" label, screen printing the shirt in the US, and then applying a new screen-printed "made in US" label. CEO Sean Whalen claimed he was being persecuted for his pro-Trump views.
But the whole thing started bc Whalen made a video about how his customers are price sensitive, so he imports blanks from China. That's what kicked off the FTC investigation. So while this mislabeling is common, it's hard to get caught unless you make a video about your crimes.
The truth is that making a t-shirt in the USA according to FTC standards will result in a relatively expensive garment. Heddels and Velva Sheen both produce shirts in the US from US grown cotton. The first is $26; second is $90 for a two-pack.
Once you add things such as screenprinting—or if you want a more unique cut and not just basic blanks—the costs go up. This is why Bikers for Trump sourced their merch from Haiti. They knew their customers would not pay an extra $8 for true made-in-USA production.
Today, there are countless companies that make merch for other organizations. They source their t-shirts from a variety of places—some made in the US, most not—and then screenprint a design and fulfill orders. This way, the other org doesn't have to do any work but marketing.
When you see a screenprinted t-shirt for $20, ask yourself: Where was the material grown? Where were the yarns spun? Where was the cutting, sewing, and finishing performed? Where was the screenprinted done? What were the wages and labor conditions along these steps?
I'm not a nationalist, so I don't prioritize American jobs over foreign ones. But I do care about fair wages and labor protections. Just because something was made abroad doesn't mean it was made in a sweatshop. Just because it was made in the US doesn't mean fair wages.
Paying more for a garment is also no guarantee of ethical manufacturing. But when the price of a garment is so low, you leave little on the table for workers. Just because you see a $20 t-shirt that says "made in USA" doesn't mean it was made fairly.
Please don't harass the person who posted that original tweet. My intention is not to cause harm or stress for anyone. Only to help shed light on what goes into garment manufacturing, fair labor, and labeling. Hopefully, you will consider these issues when shopping.
For the inevitable question: "How do I make sure my clothes were made ethically?" This is very difficult to answer in a thread. My simplest answer is that we should elect pro-worker politicians, fight for pro-labor laws, and empower unions so workers can advocate for themselves.
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TL; DR: Doesn't matter if it's the US, if it's not union it's probably a sweatshop. And not all merch is priced high because of fair labour conditions (looking at Taylor Swift and Beyoncé). Look for supply chain transparency.
#sweatshops#fashion#american sweatshop#chappell roan merch#sweatshirt#chappell roan#merchandise#made in usa#garment industry#fast fashion#worker rights#labour rights#labour unions#capitalism#worker exploitation#us politics#us law#knee of huss
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Unions Have Always Done The Impossible!
A new cartoon for May Day! This has been an incredible year for unions in the USA - may next year be even better.
Transcript, comments, and supporting blah blah about this cartoon are at https://www.patreon.com/posts/103291731 .
My labor is paid for by hundreds of supporters pledging low amounts - $1-$3 - and that's just how I like it! patreon.com/barry
#policartoon#political cartoon#political cartoons#political comics#MayDay#union strong#labour unions#unions#living wage#ubi
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Ontario government engineers participating in rotating strikes that involve stopping work on Highway 413 and the Bradford Bypass amid contract negotiations are alleging the province is now unlawfully locking them out and interfering with their right to strike. Members of the Professional Engineers Government of Ontario, which represents more than 600 professional engineers and land surveyors who work for the province, have filed a complaint with the Ontario Labour Relations Board. They have been in a legal strike position since Oct. 8 and late last month started rotating strikes, withdrawing services from the key Ontario infrastructure projects. They now say the government is effectively suspending those workers by telling them they cannot return to work "until further notice by the employer." "The (government's) intent is clear: by indefinitely banning from the workplace those who withdraw their services, the (government) sends a message to any possible second rotation of strikers that they too will be indefinitely banned from the workplace," PEGO wrote in its submission to the labour board.
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Tagging: @newsfromstolenland
#unions#strike#labour rights#labour unions#infrastructure#ontario#cdnpoli#canada#canadian politics#canadian news
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Ferdinand Christopher Smith (Photographer: Fred Stein)
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Downton Abbey's top tips for social advancement:
Get an unexpected inheritance.
Marry rich.
Study in secret and hope one of your betters will be impressed by your pluck.
Heroic sacrifice including disfigurement to save your betters.
Seduce a duke.
Blackmail.
Go work in a factory instead.
Organise with your peers for collective barganing.
Vote for redistribution of wealth.
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just learned that my dad is a union member??? that's why he was borrowing my laptop all the time lately. he was voting in the union's elections in online meetings.
#proud of him for that ngl#its a small union tho. only like 600 people#labour unions#unions#unionize#rambles#wills mumbles
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5 Things you should know about labour Day
Open Immersive Reader
Every year on May 1st, we observe or celebrate Labour Day, which recognizes the achievements made by workers in the 1800s to secure their and our rights in the workplace. The contributions made by these workers include rights and privileges that we enjoy today, such as a minimum wage. This is the reason we celebrate the accomplishments made by Industrial Revolution-era workers on Labour Day.
What is Labour Day?
Labour Day is also known as May Day or International Workers’ Day. It originated in the 1800s in the United States, where workers were known to work for up to 12 hours a day without weekends and in difficult and often dangerous working conditions. This was during the height of the Industrial Revolution, when workers were under tremendous pressure to keep up with the rapid changes that were transforming societies.
While there were multiple strikes by workers’ unions during this period, the most famous were the nationwide strikes on May 1st, 1886, by over 300,000 workers across the United States. The most well-known was the Haymarket protest, three days later, on May 4th, in Chicago, Illinois. With these and subsequent strikes, the government changed, leading to better working conditions for generations of men and women.
Haymarket protest on May 1 led to demand that it be declared Labour Day May 1st is an official holiday in many parts of the world when employees of governments, banks and most companies have a day off from work. Labour protests and the declaration of May 1st as Labour Day saw many changes over the years, making working conditions better worldwide.
Here, we look at 5 rights we enjoy because of the labour movement.
1. Fair working hours
Before the protests began in the US in the late 19th century, workers were known to work up to 100 hours per week (around 14 hours per day) with no weekends. The main demands of the striking workers included working no longer than 40 hours per week (8 hours per day) and a 5-day work week, which is now considered the standard. These demands were based on workers ensuring they had sufficient time for their families and personal well-being.
2. Fair pay and minimum wage
Employers became increasingly wealthy during this period due to workers’ low wages and long working hours. The protests sought to achieve fair pay for the hours worked, including payment for excess hours. These protests led to a watershed moment for workers in the United States when laws were created to ensure workers were paid their fair share by guaranteeing minimum wages and overtime pay.
3. Eradication of child labour
During this time, it was common for children as young as 5 to work in factories and mines in hazardous conditions. After the May Day protests and long struggle, legislation was passed in the United States that defined the employment of children under the age of 16 as “oppressive child labour,” which employers were no longer permitted to do. The new laws also stated that the employment of children between the ages of 16-18 was not to interfere with their schooling, health or well-being. Such laws were also implemented in many countries across Europe and other places.
4. Formation of unions
The poor working conditions in the 1800s set the stage for labour unions. These were formed to strengthen and achieve the aims of the labour movement, which focused on a better work life. Unions went on to achieve specific worker rights based on gender, ethnic group and other factors. Today, unions remain a forum for employees to express their grievances and demand improved working conditions.
5. Rights for working women
Long before women even had the right to vote, they made up a significant part of the workforce. Just like their male counterparts, they too led prominent protests as early as the 1840s against extended working hours, low wages, poor safety standards and the employment of children. Employed in garment, footwear and other factories, working women played an important role in the formation of women’s labour organizations. These have helped generations of women in the workplace.
Women played an important role and their rights were recognized as part of labour demands
The first Labour Day celebration in India
During the decades-long Independence movement, Labour Day or May Day, was first observed in India on May 1st, 1923. Led by freedom-fighter Malayapuram Singaravelu, who also established the first trade union in India, the celebration took place in Chennai and called for the passing of a resolution to declare May 1st a holiday. The famous phrase “workers of the world unite” was also proclaimed against the backdrop of the freedom struggle, which sought to unburden people, including workers from different parts of the country, and lead them to freedom.
Having an 8-hour workday and the weekends free to spend time relaxing or with the family has its origins in the American workers’ strikes during the 1800s. Many workplaces nowadays emphasize a healthy work-life balance and organize workplace wellness programs for their employees. However the basic rights expected from any employer are set in stone due to the protests that led to the Fair Labour Standards Act in 1938 in the United States. Over 100 years later, people worldwide benefit from the rights secured by those who protested unfair and unjust working conditions to create more balanced, healthy, and safe working conditions.
#Labour Day#May Day#International Workers’ Day#Industrial Revolution#Workers' rights#Fair working hours#Fair pay#Minimum wage#Child labour#Labour unions#Women's rights#Haymarket protest#8-hour workday#Work-life balance#Workplace wellness programs
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"nobody gives a care about the fate of labour so long as they can get their instant gratification."
—squidward tentacles, "squid on strike" - season 2, episode 20 (october 12, 2001)
with the dockworkers officially on strike, remember the wise words of a humble clarinettist as things start to get tight. remember that they are human beings deserving of job security & fair wages—just like you. remember that they & their families need to eat—just like you. remember that their hard work is consistently devalued by greedy corporations when they only want what is due to them—just like you. remember these things & remember who has forced them to the point of striking. remember these things when someone tries to lay blame on the dockworkers when the going gets tough.
you are not the bourgeoisie's dog & they are not your masters. don't add to the strikers burden. support them & their cause, because it's your cause too. i know some of you are responsible for dependents or have special needs & supply chain disruptions can be even more impactful on you, but i'm begging - do what you can. the c suites are watching & waiting for the people to turn on striking workers. when that happens, they'll know just how far they can push the lower & middle classes without having to compromise.
the sole bargaining chip of the worker is labour. workers' relation to capital-owners is contingent upon their labour (value-generation). if they don't refuse to generate value for the capital owners, what incentive is there for the upper class to negotiate fair wages & safe-working conditions? there aren't any.
at the end of the day, remember the golden rule: treat others as you want to be treated. but also treat other others as you'd want to be treated if you were in their shoes—because you are, & you will be. especially if we don't stand together.
#poema#miserylovescompany#sluglife#strike#boeing strike#dockworkers#dockworkers strike#longshoresmen#longshoresmen strike#union#labor unions#labour unions#politics#us politics
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youtube
Happy #LabourDay! We’re marking the occasion with some union-related etymologies!
#labour day#labor day#union#unions#labour unions#labor unions#etymology#words#language#linguistics#connectedatbirth#word nerd#wordnerd#history of english#history of the english language#historical linguistics#lingcomm#lingblr#video#youtube
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The Union's Demands Are Impossible!
"A year from now, all auto companies will be out of business!"
We can keep making these cartoons because of lots of people supporting us - most only at the $2 or $1 levels - which is something I find really cool. Join us! patreon.com/barry
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No Frills workers at 17 stores in Ontario have ratified a new collective agreement that raises wages and expands the number of full-time jobs, the union representing them has confirmed. A press release from Unifor said the deal, which covers almost 1,300 workers, will see wages rise between $3.20 and $4.50 an hour over the duration of the agreement. The five-year contract also includes a new benefits program for part-time workers and creates 30 new full-time positions to be filled within a year.
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Tagging @politicsofcanada
#cdnpoli#canada#canadian politics#canadian news#ontario#unions#labour unions#workers rights#union victories
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'we will not wait around for someone else to build the future for us'
hey so yesterday my union launched our manifesto and voted to reveal our membership numbers (1500+ and across the entire uk games industry)!
i just do discord admin (make it bearable to use lol) and data entry, but everyone else has put in incredible work making this. seeing this union build up strength over the last 5 years has been awesome, and i'm excited for how the next 5 are gonna go.
some extracts if you don't wanna click on the link:
The manifesto, which can be viewed here, outlines the IWGB Game Workers' mission, core values, and planned campaigns. Its five core values are stated as democracy, solidarity and care, taking action, education, and equality and justice. And its campaigns are listed as follows:
- Union recognition: Have all members recognized by their employers - Working hours and overtime: End reliance on overtime and crunch culture, obtain either a 4-day work week or 6-hour workdays without salary reductions, end "presenteeism", and guaranteed mental health days - Compensation: Mandate annual pay increases, improve baseline pay, obtain studio profit sharing, end the gender pay gap, equal parental leave, residuals or royalties, and improved pension - Accountability and transparency: Holding C-suite executives accountable for mergers, acquisitions, and redundancies, salary transparency, open book accounting, and publicly available diversity and representation statistics - Job security: Better protections against firing and redundancy, better communication in the event of redundancy, better redundancy pay packages, AI regulations, one-month minimum notice periods, end abuse of fixed-term contracts, and forcing entry-level jobs to have entry-level job requirements. - Equity and inclusion: Accessible working options, improved support for disability, neurodiversity, LGBTQ+, and mental health, enforcement of policies for handling misconduct, guidelines for inclusive language, removing barriers for workers coming from lower income brackets, more inclusive hiring process, compulsory DEI best practice training - Training and education: Improved professional development support, and mandatory sexual misconduct and antitrust training for C-suite and management - Contractual terms: Removing unreasonable non-compete and non-disparagement clauses, guaranteed ownership of personal side projects, guaranteed credits
the complete manifesto has gotten even more going on tho, with our mission and core values. so if you're a game worker, or you wanna know what the people who make the games you love need, then check it out <3
im not gonna make like direct refs to what i do IRL that often but like ye, this is my union and where i put my political energy ✨
#unions#union strong#labor unions#labour unions#game workers#game development#iwgb#iwgb game workers#melinoë.etc
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NO STRIKE BABY!!!
Teamsters and basic crafts are still at the negotiating table though...
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Love's Labour's Won - andimeantittosting (Saylee) - Supernatural [Archive of Our Own]
It’s been five years since the workplace accident that killed Dean Winchester’s father, and conditions at Roman Mills have not gotten any safer. When Dean confides in his friend Charlie, she introduces him to Cas Novak, a union organizer passionate about workers’ rights.
As they work together on the union drive, Dean and Cas bond over good food, trashy TV, Castiel’s introduction to LARPing, and their shared commitment to improving the lives of the workers at the sawmill. Cas, however, is all too conscious of the power imbalance between them.
And then there's Roman Enterprises, determined to stop them from forming a union, even if it means breaking the law, with devastating consequences for Dean and Cas’s nascent romance.
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