#abjd

[lunarseelie]

[bug-memory]

First assembled pics of Harold from Harucasting! They look amazing and I'm so freaking excited.

A general update here, as I haven't talked about Harolds in a bit: > Robes from the fullsets are all weathered and stained. I need to glue the little moon brooches on them, and will decide if I want to fray check the edges or not (will test it out on mine, but if it stiffens the fabric in a weird way, I won't do it. The acrylic I stained it with seems to keep it a bit less fragile as-is). > New box samples are on their way to me; I had to adjust the dimensions, but I think this one should work. After that, I have about a week for them all to arrive. > CoAs and other packaging materials are all ready > Basically I think they can be ready to send to their homes very soon. The only thing that won't be ready immediately are fullset dolls, because I will need to break out my pastels and airbrush and start working on them. I need to look through the list and see which colors need to be sent first. >Overall I'm AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAH THEY LOOK SO GOOD THOUGH

[dragonsdelightstudio]

Shoe Stay Last the Broke Way

Or, you’re a cheap bitch like me and have only basic materials at your disposal.

Hello, beautiful people~

Let’s create a shoe stay together.

(I’ve been corrected in my terms, it’s a shoe last. My bad if I confused any of you!)

Most every crafter has - Glue, water, plastic wrap, paper bags (or whatever you may have on hand,) and hot glue; That’s it, that’s your list of supplies. Perhaps a sharp instrument to cut away the mold carefully.

If you are like me, my crew is chronically shoeless. Shoes are expensive! I consider myself a decent seamstress though, so why not try shoe making? When doing this it’s a good idea to have a shoe “last” or a basic mold to help shape the shoes. I’m not a huge fan of handling my dolls every time I try and make something to fit.

Enter shoe lasts stays, the broke way.

First you need a volunteer. I chose the boy who had the bigger feet to basically provide a mold to all my other boys of similar size. This is Harper. His body is an April Story Senior. He’s got his pantlegs rolled up and he’s ready to go.

Let’s get messy now and act like we are in kindergarten. You want to make sure your doll’s feet are wrapped securely in cling wrap, covering a little above the ankle. We are going to paper mache over his feet. There are many recipes online for a mixture, but I personally use a mix of wood and white PVA mixed with a bit of water.

I alternated thin Kraft paper and paper towel for a couple of layers. Make sure each one is thoroughly dry before applying the next. Try and fill out some of the area above the heel and the arch as we want to keep this basic shape but not totally form fitting.

All dry! Now you need to carefully cut off the paper Mache. This can be tricky. Much like the paper Mache dress form we want to avoid doing damage to the doll during removal. Go slow and separate as necessary. I cut down the back of the leg and heel and about halfway down the foot. I was able to wiggle the mold off at this point.

Yay! Now that it’s off, try and ease the split back into place. I use tape as a temporary closure until I can go back and cover it with a final layer of paper Cache. You don’t have to, but I just like the clean look.

This last part is totally optional but I like to fill the cavity with some sort of firm support just to ensure the longevity of the cast. My doll forms are stuffed firm with yarn scraps and dryer lint. These though, I wanted something more solid. I’m not familiar with expanding foam nor do I have any on hand but what I DO have is hot glue. In the past I’ve made hot glue gems for some kids out of molds, so I know what I’m working with.

I cut the molds to an even height and started filling from the toe up to the arch. I let it cool in that upright tiptoe position for a bit before placing it flat and adding my little handle and filling it up to the top. I tapped them on the desk a few times while doing this just to make sure the glue settled firmly. I added handles just because, but you don’t have to. I used a cheap dowel.

Depending on what kind of shoes you plan to make (either soft formed or modern shoes with a formed toe) you can build up the toe areas to give yourself that sleek shape that modern shoes have.

Credit to @dollsahoy for adding on the buildup tip!

There you have it. Let the glue harden and admire your work. If you are going to use these to shape damp leather, remember to seal them with a water resistant sealant!

I hope this provides inspiration to someone.

Cheers and happy crafting.

[fatemoons]

Do you like these wings?

Basically suitable for all 1/4 bjd~

[kerosen]

I’ve completed Alden, my jackalope guy. Working on him has been really fun actually. :’)

[janekolyadintseva]

Little friend 🐱

[pixxiecup]

ball jointed doll moodboard with lolita fashion , paper stars , and fruit tea !!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[lolitaari-bjd]

The past few months have been a blur. Suddenly having to pack up everything and move, working long nights for 2 months straight just to afford the basics and pay everything off 😩😭 Finally setting up my dolls and doll house again. Camilla looks great🖤💋✨️

I should really start posting here more. Just to use as my personal dump/blog 😅

[maxahlia-dolls]

[dollie-dream]

lottie ♡ girlie in red (volks {btssb} lieselotte)

[lunarseelie]

[izasfaceups]

This Sprouting Dragon Zilu in Mia pink skin was an interesting challenge due to her sculpted eyelashes. Naturally she was given lots of cute freckles! She is one of my wife's dolls, which means I could get an owner picture right away.

Isn't she pretty? My wife ordered the resin wig with her, but it didn't have enough magnets installed (only like 6 out of 12), so I bought some myself and filled in the remaining slots. The resin wig is still very precarious, but it's cute at least!

Want to see more of my work or commission me? Then please check out my website at www[dot]IzasFaceUps[dot]com!

[dragonsdelightstudio]

So here is a mini breakdown of how I created the BJD eye cups.

First off, you’re going to need some sort of backing to round out the eyeball. I split wooden beads apart and glued them to the backs. This is going to help the eyeball rotate.

Now you are going to need some half spheres. They need to be larger than your eyeball so the can move freely once padding is added. I made these with hot glue and two metal measuring spoons, one inside the other. This created the mold for the sphere. Have ice water handy because a quick cool down makes it easier to peel the glue out. They don’t have to be perfect, you can always trim if need be.

Fluff time. I gently tugged apart a cotton makeup wipe to create the pillow we need. How much you’re going to need will vary and you will need to experiment with how much is going to work for the eyeball. Lots of trial and error here. You want to set it in the half-spheres lightly, do not pack it in.

Position your eyeball. This is also trial and error. You want it center with enough room to move. You will have to put the cup on and experiment. Have a toothpick like object and a little bit of tac to do a trial run on the eyeballs movement. Add/remove fluff as needed. You want a semi-firm cushion but not so much to hinder movement. You may need to adjust position of the cup to either side as well for optimal movement.

I very much recommend Faber-Castell blue tac it. It doesn’t leave marks on the pupils as you move the eye around.

Mnnn

Did you find a prime position? Glue the cap in. I know magnets are usually used, but I’m being cheap here. A couple spots of hot glue holds the cup in and is easily pulled out for change and repositioning. Just trim off the excess glue and start again.

Some heads may be more difficult to place the cups side by side. You will have to use your best judgement to trim and move as necessary. For a couple I had to trim some of the side of the cup off because of the angle.

Got them both in? Great! Replace the head and admire your work.

Side note: I did notice some eyewells were deeper than others (looking at you Dante) I did have to do a little bit of pre padding carefully around the eyeball before placing the cap, just to help keep the eye in position. Be sure to check often to make sure there is no stray fluff peeking around the eye.

This was a quick and dirty explanation of how I did this. It isn’t pretty, but it works. Now the dolls have more expression than ever from sultry, to suspicious, to downright deviant.

Feel free to use or make improvements upon this concept. It’s meant to be a cheap and easy project.

[the-bjd-community-confess]

CW: Body type discussion

Re: this

I don’t dare speak for everybody on this topic but I can speak for many.

There’s an ugly discourse going around that “fat people” are just people with no self control in regard to eating and who are too lazy to try to stay fit. I’d call that a straw cyborg argument as yes, there are people like that, but I’d say many “fat” people have a more complex issue with their bodies than simply binge eating and riding a Walmart scooter everywhere like a meme.

OP says she doesn’t need representation and doesn’t understand why other people would want it. I have a different take on that. I’m not a Person of Colour; I’m white. I don’t specifically benefit from there being dolls of other human skin tones than my own. Most BJDs are a shade of “Caucasian”, some sort of pinkish cream or creamish pink.

The idea of creating “tan” dolls started off as having dolls with a “California suntan”. What people ended up doing was treating those dolls as being dolls of other ethnicities than white. As more people did this, doll companies began making “tan” dolls in darker and darker shades, or even making more Asian-looking skin tones.

The purpose of wanting this is simple. We are saying that people of skin tones other than white/caucasian are beautiful and desirable too. We’re saying that it’s nice to interact with people and dolls other than just white people and white skin toned dolls.

The same goes for “fat” dolls. By having dolls of “other body types and shapes”, we’re saying that people of other body types and shapes are attractive and desirable people too. We’re telling non-thin people and PoCs that they are just as valued and worthy of love and acceptance as thin white people.

That can only ever be a good thing, if you ask me.

~Anonymous

[meanae]

Wild mix this time! A few heads from my own collection and some commissions.

[izasbjdphoto]

A Breakdown of my New Impldoll 1/4 Plump Body (with a MNF Alicia head)

So I've had this body since April, as I ordered right at the release of the Impldoll 1/4 Plump body in real skin back in January/February 2024 to make use of the event to get extra hands and feet. I also got the Susu head, but I split it off with @poupeesdecirque (who made an amazing modded hybrid out of it) as I didn't need it.

I had intended at first to hybrid my DiM Gayane on the body, but then I realized that despite all the annoyance I had with her default body, I didn't see her as super curvy... So I decided to put my Fairyland MNF Alicia on it.

Here she is once I got her a dress. There is nothing slim about this body, so don't even bother getting her slim mini clothes, they will not fit. The dress is intended for Iplehouse JID girls with the glamour bust (my girl has the large bust), but I do think she can share shoes with MNFs from what I've noticed, as mine is wearing her old MNF sized shoes easily.

I'm gonna post the nude doll body pics under the read more cut:

Let's take a brief look at the body upon opening it. Look, no flat butt!! I gotta say, the level of detail on this body is insane. Like the detailing along the areola and the finger knuckles are beautifully done.

The one thing I am a little confused on is that her groin lacks all definition. It's just an odd choice with such a body, as she has even defined knuckles on her toes, but they haven't put anything there for girl dolls since the SGB Star Body, that one didn't have any crotch detailing.

Oh well, not much I can do about that other than mod it myself. But since my girl doesn't go commando, I don't care enough to add the detailing myself.

Now let's compare the Fairyland MNF A-Line girl body to the Impldoll 1/4 plump body. The Impldoll body is a good bit taller and thicker!

I took off the S-Hook and put a 3D Printed neck key on it as the neck would be way too short with just a washer. MNFs have really thick necks on top, so there is gapping, but it's no noticeable one the wig is on. Let's get a good turnaround view:

In the side and back view the gapping his more noticeable, but she stands solid. I did wire her arms legs as she liked to kick herself, but now she is great.

Impldoll even sent her with some coated wire to install as the owner. I used aluminum wire from my own stock as the Impldoll one was a titch too weak and thin to hold up against the elastic.

She sits easily on her legs, and can easily sit with her knees raised to her chest. The engineering is really nice on this aesthetic body, and Impldoll provides a lot of colors to choose from.

But do keep in mind any non "standard" colors (color matching and darker resins) there will be a good several month delay in getting your order. They mentioned this on their Instagram recently as people got worried about waiting 6+ months for dolls that others received within 3 or less months (I ordered a standard color, so it was fast).

I'll end the post with a small resin comparison. I have many other normal skins I can compare, to Impldoll real skin, such as DV normal pink and normal (yellow toned), 2D Doll normal yellow, DFA normal pink, TD Doll normal pink, etc... so just let me know if you want a resin comparison and I will do so.

Thanks for looking!