#Fashion Analysis
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honeytonedhottie · 2 months ago
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beyonce's hyper feminine style in the 90's and 2000's⋆.ೃ࿔*:・🎀💕
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in the early 2000's beyonce's hyper feminine style was literally UNMATCHED and its something that i HEAVILY take inspiration from when im dressing…💬🎀
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HOW SHE INCOPORATED GIRLINESS INTO HER OUTFITS ;
regardless of what beyonce wore it looked effortlessly beautiful and feminine on her. for example when she would wear jeans she'd pair it with a heel for that cute feminine touch. she loved to wear baby tees, and tops that were glamorous and absolutely adorable 💕
one of my favorite jean-looks from beyonce was when she wore jeans with this flowy pink top like OMG. she never shies away from the accessories, she wears lots of bracelet, big hoops and her rings all tie the outfit together so beautifully.
HER BEST RED CARPET LOOKS ;
her look at the 2003 billboard music awards is one of my all time FAVES. she looks absolutely dazzling in that dress, its def something that i also would wear. its a gold tasseled mini dress, i love the way that she accessorized.
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her look at the 2006 grammy awards is also STUNNING. if u haven't noticed the pattern, i love to see beyonce in these browns, golds and beige colors, i think they look lovely on her, but back to the outfit. shes EATING in this strapless sequinned elie saab gown. i love how she accessorized, everything just matches flawlessly per usual.
the last look that im going to be talking about is her 2007 golden globes gown where she STUNS in another elie saab dress. i love the gold, her skin is literally glistening and i love the honeyed hair color on her, i think it suits her the best.
THE IMPACT OF HER DANGEROUSLY IN LOVE ERA ;
beyonce's dangerously in love era was, in my opinion, the best one that shes ever had fashion wise. she embraced bold, glamorous, and hyper feminine styles that solidified her status as a fashion icon. the sparkly and rhinestone embellished tops and low rise jeans, the cascading curls and the BLING.
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it was such a perfect blend of 2000s fashion and sophistication and that just SCREAMS beyonce. her looks blended designer pieces with streetwear influences which in my opinion helped her to popularize certain fashion trends and which made her such a trendsetter.
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whatudowhennooneseesyou · 5 months ago
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𝐀𝐬𝐭𝐫𝐨𝐥𝐨𝐠𝐲 𝐅𝐚𝐬𝐡𝐢𝐨𝐧 𝐀𝐧𝐚𝐥𝐲𝐬𝐢𝐬: 𝐆𝐥𝐨𝐰 𝐔𝐩 𝐰𝐢𝐭𝐡 𝐘𝐨𝐮𝐫 𝐑𝐢𝐬𝐢𝐧𝐠 𝐒𝐢𝐠𝐧- 𝐊𝐢𝐦 𝐇𝐨𝐧𝐠𝐣𝐨𝐨𝐧𝐠
This photo is such a good example of how tailoring your fashion style to compliment your rising sign just helps you GLOW with your natural features.
Disclaimer: This is my own opinion as an astrologer and I am slightly biased because this man is my bias (one of them) and he has my heart hook, line and sinker.
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Hongjoong is a Scorpio stellium with a Capricorn Rising so Mars and Saturn are his two most influential rulers and come on- can't you tell?
He looks amazing in everything he wears (even the mushroom bowl cut) BUT the biggest reason why my favourite hair colour on Hongjoong is his natural brunette is because Saturn represents minimalism, 'clean', 'efficiency' etc.
Hongjoong already has a gorgeous bone structure, he's got a sharp jawline and cheekbones, beautiful teeth and a long vertical line- it's why he appears taller than he actually is.
But his features are fine and dainty, he has a lithe build which is common for people with Capricorn Rising- they don't tend to have a lot of curvature unlike their sister sign Cancer.
So when he has bright hair or light-coloured hair, it can diminish his natural features whereas his natural dark hair sharpens them.
A common phrase with a Capricorn Rising is 'less is more'.
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This velvet suit he wore is another great example and one of my faves, he is a Gemini Moon so he does like a little bit of colour but it is still dark enough and cool-toned for it to compliment his features.
Cool/neutral/monochromatic tones look the best on him which also matches his Capricorn Rising.
Hongjoong is not a DILF, he is a 100% pure sugar daddy at heart.
And what photos of Hongjoong you see where the 'he's such a daddy' comments are most active?
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When he's wearing these tailored monochromatic outfits that are minimal (ish), classic and timeless and combined with his natural hair colour- bring out his natural beauty and elegance.
That 'Here's $1,000 in your account because you've been such a sweet angel lately' sugar daddy/leader energy we all love about him (and makes me want to crawl for him) is the most evident when he caters to the Capricorn/Saturnian influence in his natal chart.
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And a quick shout out to this fancall when he wore this navy blue jumper and he had his dark hair parted with minimal makeup and he looks like a walking EDWARD CULLEN here.
One of my favourite looks purely for the fantasy alone.
I love this fancall because this fancall was when he revealed that the Atiny's appearance and style was 'his type' and said he found them physically attractive- which just helped me affirm that his type is just 'grunge/goth/emo/alt with a feminine twist'.
It also helped affirm my theory that whilst Hongjoong adores all Atiny's, he does give a lil extra 'boyfriend treatment' to the Atiny's who bias him- which is definitely unlike his Scorpio stellium at all (said sarcastically).
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seventeenlovesthree · 3 months ago
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Yamato Ishida's clothing style - a meta analysis
Since Yamato has won the fashion analysis poll ahead of Sora, Mimi, Takeru and Hikari, he'll be the third to get one after Koushirou and Taichi. Fortunately - and interestingly enough -, he might be one of the easier cases among all the Chosen Children, because he has very consistent themes and motifs going on, so let's get this on step by step:
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Adventure (+ Our War Game), age 11/12:
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Even though the kids do not change clothes very often throughout the series, we can still find a few of the aforementioned "themes and motifs" for Yamato here: Starting with his signature sleeveless/turtleneck shirt in Adventure, his favourite - and thus associated - colour appears to be green and since he seems to prefer overall dark colours, you will usually (but not exclusively) see him wear darker shades. This can also be observed during OWG, where he wears a dark brown button-down shirt - which will turn out to be a common theme in addition to dark jeans or pants. Plus, unlike most of the other male characters, you will almost NEVER see him wear sneakers, because he's clearly a "boots" kind of guy.
As for his hair, this is where the classic "cool boy haircut" with the spikes and side fringe found its origins (which is also pretty close to how his father wears his hair).
02 (+ Diablomon Strikes Back), age 14/15:
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This is where the "rockstar phase" begins and even though green doesn't make an appearance here, he consistently sticks to dark colours - mostly blacks and browns - as well as complementing boots, button-downs or turtlenecks. Despite him being the leader of his own band, his style is something I would personally describe as very neat, almost unagitated and thus more in line with his introverted side - which can be interpreted as him trying to be somewhat lowkey, not intending to attract too much attention. But at the same time, his style (= dark clothes in contrast to his blond hair) naturally creates a sense of "mysterious aloofness" (as it may be described by his fans, such as Jun. While it is also never explicitly stated, we know that he has European/French genes from his mother's side, so this may or may not add to his visual appearance easily attracting attention and popularity).
In terms of his school uniform, he doesn't go all out on being extravagant either, but instead chooses "the middle ground" between Taichi's "loose and casual" and Koushirou's "neat and correct" style by wearing the blazer closed but leaving out the tie. It's still overall very correct, with a hue of "coolness".
Diablomon Strikes Back then adds two more motifs for him, implying him becoming more and more comfortable growing into "his own": From this point on, we will see him wear little accessories like rings and necklaces - which, as we will see later, may even have a link to Gabumon one way or another. He also starts to wear more layers from now on, such as (college or leather) jackets - which will become more prominent later.
The "cool boy haircut" has grown out a little, softening the spikes. Not only could this be seen as him "differentiating" himself a little from his father (which is a common interpretation of the hairstyle change); it also gives him more of a J-pop-star vibe and makes him appear more "chill" in general (whereas I can only assume he was considered more of a "surfer boy" in Western fandoms back in the day).
Tri, age 17:
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While he has cut his (still softened) hair a little bit shorter again, he overall maintains an effortlessly "casual but cool" style: Not only have the green tones returned to his wardrobe, the boots are also still there (even if they're not visible on the picture evidence). The ensemble is usually complimented by elements from his aforementioned DSB/"rockstar" phase: We see him wearing necklaces and chains in his everyday outfits, simple (black, green or even white) shirts with or without prints and with or without cardigans or jackets - and we can also tell he has gotten generally more daring (and a little less "tame") by wearing ripped jeans.
His school uniform is still more or less "neat", but even though he has added the tie, he wears everything more loosely than he did in 02. For his Summer school uniform, he also chooses to wear a long-sleeved shirt rolled up - instead of the short-sleeved ones all the other male characters wear.
Kizuna, age 22:
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As a young adult, he basically tries to marry the majority of his previously mentioned themes into one consistent style: His signature cool-boy hairstyle - neat, short, spiky - has returned as well as the dark greens and the boots. In general, his colour palette consists of green, black and white - with an interesting case of grey in the middle of the movie. Similarly to Taichi, this may or may not have some special implications: Taichi wears an asymmetrical shirt, black on the left (covering his "heart"), blue (his favourite colour) and white on the right ("light") side, indicating his insecurities in terms of what's the right path. In contrast, Takeru wears all of his associated colours (VERY colourful green shades), as does Koushirou (orange), while also wearing a pristine white shirt - they're both not at risk of losing their partners, they're both on the light side, whereas Yamato and Taichi are completely at a loss. Yamato, who wears a grey button-down shirt, appears to be just as torn about his future and current situation as Taichi is, having abandoned his beloved music and hesitantly contemplating a future in the military. Which is also why he may wear a dog tag - and, as mentioned previously, this may also be a reminder of his bond to Gabumon after all. (And on a lovely little side note, I assume that Takeru starts wearing necklaces at the time of The Beginning to signify his own bond to Yamato.)
In terms of layers, we see him wear leather jackets, blazers and vests, everything being mostly "neat and correct" (again), with the same sense of effortless coolness he always had (but, if you wanna follow Kizuna's course of action, it may also display a sense of insecurity that leads him to choose style cues from the past over trying to move forward. I do like his Kizuna style and there is nothing wrong with returning to what you are familiar with, especially because most of it is definitely and consistently "him" - but that interpretation would also be in line with Kizuna's message, "forcing" oneself to conform and be a responsible adult.) One interesting addition are the red (!) glasses he wears during lectures, which is a colour we haven't seen him consider before. (Since it's "red", a possible interpretation could be that Sora gifted it to him - Kizuna is very persistent with its colours after all.)
Beyond, ???
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Now things are getting a little more tricky, because we do not exactly know how old Yamato is supposed to be in these sketches - since this could be Kakudou's interpretation of post 02/DSB!Yamato as well as him being somewhere in his later 20's, also according to Kakudou's vision. I've tried to put my thoughts on this style into words here already, but to summarize it very quickly here: It's interesting that we see the grown-out 02 haircut again, as well as the earring - if we follow my interpretation of 02!Yamato, this only means that he has grown even more comfortable with himself to dress and present himself as less neat and also "less spiky" (= less aggressive in personality).
The epilogue, approximately age 39:
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Last but not least, the epilogue shows our astronaut choosing the same colour palette and style cues 02!Yamato had already been famous for: Blacks and browns, glimpses of beige, a turtleneck and a (leather) jacket. His hairstyle is back to being the exact same as his father's - and as for now, there is not a lot to say about that without having the full context of where "Beyond" may eventually lead him in this timeline.
So my final verdict is: As mentioned at the beginning of this post, most of Yamato's style choices have a coherent theme: cool, effortless, mostly unagitated, sophisticated and tame, but with a glimpse of growing "rebellion". You can tell he confidently knows his favourite colours - mostly dark greens, black and brown with softening tints of grey, beige and white. He loves his (short or no-sleeved) shirts (with or without print), button-downs, turtlenecks and boots - and sometimes even dares to put on something like leather jackets or vests over those. What he appears to be a little unsure about is the consistent usage of accessories - and his hairstyle.
While the dog tag may be one of his more prominent features at this point (potentially signifying his bond with Gabumon), the state of his hair may or may not indicate how comfortable he is with his identity. Next to Taichi and Sora - and due to him still dealing with the aftermath of his parents' divorce -, he is the one who struggles the most with where he sees himself in the future. We know he has a high sense of responsibility (especially for those he cares about) and tries to find rational solutions, but may let his emotions get the best of him sometimes, hindering communication, so that may be where the inconsistencies stem from. While his clothing style is mostly tame and neat, indicating his wish for order, it has these little moments of (emotional) "rebellion" in it at times; rings, necklaces, ripped jeans - all things he tried out at some point, but doesn't seem to be 100% sure of, since he doesn't consistently wear them. Whether that's because he feels like he has to conform and fit into society as he grows older, abandoning music because it's not a "feasible career" - or simply feels more comfortable wearing his signature haircut (and "what he already knows") once again. One could also interpret his return to his old hairstyle as a sign that he may have grown closer to his father, thus feeling more comfortable "merging" all these style elements and finding a middle ground, slowly but steadily - but whether or not that is true, I am not able to tell.
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thyfggfy · 11 months ago
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It is finally time to talk about THE boy , MY boy - Scott McCall.
When we see him for the first time he dresses as a pretty average teenage boy . His clothes are baggy , comfortable and being stylish is clearly the last thing on his mind.
Lots of basic zip-up hoodies
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long sleeves under short sleeves
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t-shirts with random graphic designs (if wearing these is not an universal teenage guy experience , I don't know what is)
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and a hooded leather jacket here and there.
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It is also imprtant to note that Scott did the the little red riding hood reference FIRST . In the very first episode , mind you !
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At the start of season 2 Scott has obviously went through a lot which forces him to mature a little bit and that is reflected in his appearance .
He is not wearing anything new , really . He actually has outfits that are pretty similar to what we've seen in the previous season .
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It is just that his clothes are a bit more well fitting now.
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In season 3 though is when he REALLY updates his wardrobe . Which is very appropriate since this the season when he tries to improve in all regards of his life.
He starts wearing some nice jackets
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long sleeve shirts (ignore the blood on the blue one)
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a good variety of button - ups (and downs)
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and some VERY cute hoodies (for real though. Look at him in the red one . He looks so HUGGABLE)
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Parts : Scott.2
Jackson ; Derek ; Liam ; Mason ; Theo ; Stiles.1 , Stiles.2
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suchawrathfullamb · 3 months ago
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okay fine I'll make one for Hannibal
How To Give Hannibal Lecter
A style guide.
No, the foundation on your eyebrows and the patterned suit doesn't automatically turn you into Hannibal. Here's how to actually do it without looking like you're cosplaying for a convention.
A lot of people think H is eccentric in his fashion but he's actually not. He's quite the classic gentleman, really. Wearing patterns and colors doesn't make one eccentric. Hannibal likes being a little special, but not weird. He likes being special by being overdressed or more put together or having special details, not by being strange-looking. He'd much rather be off putting through his communication lol.
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Another aspect of his personal style is that he is a little highbrow, as we can see he rarely has an open collar or looks too casual, even in casual clothes.
You wanna aim for pretentious and hot art history teacher with a mysterious past.
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You don't need to copy his literal outfits to exude the vibes. You also add patterns in the fits by using them in ties, in bags, shoes, pants, coats, not just literally in a suit.
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extra inspo if you want hair vibes: always looking naturally put together and classic, so not the style for messy hair or too much texture. He also seems to prefer his hair without visible products. It's the code of effortless elegance.
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m0on-prism · 4 months ago
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Fashion Analysis - Aya Oosawa
While reading the The Guy She was Interested in I am absolutely in love with the way Aya dresses. We don't see much of Aya out of her school uniform and we know she's a gyaru, so I have compiled a bunch of panels where we actually get to see her fashion style
Accessories
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Aya is usually seen in gold jewelry, including her hoops she wears the most. She doesn't usually accessories out of her earrings, but we do see her wear pearl necklaces, black chokers, black necklaces with small pendants. She wears many different earrings through out the manga from small bows, dangle flowers, and crystals, she also has a second ear piercing on her right ear we have seen her wear once. She does however wear many different headpieces, including the barrette she is wearing in the included picture. She is also often seen wearing scrunchies both in her hair and on her wrist, many different hair clips, claw clips, thick headbands and a scarf headband. She always has her nails done in a short almond shape, from official arts they are mostly pink but she does differ from when they went on their class trip her nails were mermaid inspired.
2. Tops
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Aya out of her school uniform wears a bunch of crop tops and knit wear. She also layers her long sleeves under some of her tops. She doesn't wear much baggy clothes and also wears a bit of flannels. She wears band t-shirts, sweaters, and many different types of jackets, from leather, jeans and cardigans. She wears lots of pinks, whites, and dark/neutral colors to even it out the rest of her outfits. She also sometimes sports button ups and turtle necks.
3. Bottoms
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Skirts, skirts, skirts and more skirts. Aya is shown to wear a lot of skirts. the skirts range in color and sometimes length, but she noticeably wears miniskirts, usually in black. She also sometimes wears jean skirts, pencil skirts and ruffle skirts. Of course she doesn't just wear skirts, she also has jeans, her jeans can range from flare, skinny, and mom type jeans. Her bottoms are usually low or midrise. She pairs her jeans with different types of belts that match her outfits, noticeable ones are her black leather belts, her heart one and chains. She also wears many overalls both jeans and shorts.
4. Hair
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She normally wears her light pink wavy hair down without much accessories. But when she is in gym she has her hair in a ponytail or bubble tail. When she dresses up her hair is half up half down, pigtails, braids and buns. She sometimes uses scrunchies, ribbons, hair clips and headbands. As an adult she cuts her hair a little pass her ears.
Anyways, I hope you enjoyed !!
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just-a-sad-sad-frog · 26 days ago
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Leon Kuwata - Fashion Breakdown
Okay, let's reveiw Leon Kuwata, the Ultimate Baseball Star's fashion choices from Danganronpa: Trigger Happy Havoc!
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Overall First Impression: Deliberate Rebellion & Anti-Establishment, Cool
Leon's fashion is a messy, rebellious blend of punk, streetwear, and aspiring rock star aesthetics. It screams "I don't care what you think," but in a way that also demands attention. He's not aiming for sophistication; he's aiming for cool and a bit of chaos that will draw the eye.
Key Elements and Breakdown:
Bright Red Hair: This is perhaps the most instantly recognizable aspect of Leon's look. You look at the character spite above and bam the first thing your eye goes to is his hair (for me at least) It's a bold color that immediately sets him apart from the more subdued cast.
Piercings: He has multiple piercings, most prominently in his ears. These further contribute to his rebellious image and give a certain edginess. Piercings are a classic marker of punk and alternative styles.
Jackets: Leon is often seen wearing jackets, a versatile piece that can range from sporty to stylish. These layers add to the complexity of his presentation. The addition of the studs along the collar further present the idea of edginess.
Graphic T-shirt: The shirt is nice I like it the design and colours work nicely. (This is all I have to say because I can't be asked to write stuff that bores everybody again.)
Rolled-Up Sleeves: Similar to the unbuttoned jacket, the rolled-up sleeves add to the sense of association with his athletic background, even if he's trying to distance himself from it.
Color Pallette: White, sliver, black and red; this combination adds to the stereotypical rebellious tone. (Idk)
Casual jeans: He is seen wearing casual jeans that dark in color. (honestly same it's just comfy) These straight-forward jeans contrast with the flashiness of his hair and the deliberate casualness of his shirt, acting as a grounding element.
Trainers: Completing his outfit is a pair of trainers, a practical and comfortable choice. It reflects his desire for practicality when needed, but also his sporty past as a baseball player, while not taking away from his image.
Accessories: Leon doesn't wear a lot of accessories, however the ones he does make a big statement. The giant safety pin on his jacket and what appears to be a padlock necklace/chain thing (i dont know what to call it (T^T)) make a nice addition to the outfit without being to the piont it looks tacky or detracting from the clothes or the character itself. The accessories enhance the outfit so yey
Contrast to Other Characters:Compared to characters like Makoto Naegi who favors plain, everyday clothes, or Byakuya Togami who epitomizes formal elegance, Leon's style stands out dramatically. It highlights how fashion choices in Danganronpa are used to establish character archetypes and create visual distinctions between characters.
In Conclusion: Leon Kuwata's fashion is a loud and deliberate statement. It's a mixture of punk-inspired rebellion, streetwear cool, and a heavy dose of rock-star aspiration. The outfit is fun so yeah :)
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@ask-leon-kuwataa
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poppletonink · 5 months ago
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The It Girl Of Skins: Effy Stonem's Style
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Effy Stonem is the poster girl for Skins. She's the it girl of the entire show, admired both in the world of the characters and in real life. Her eclectic style encompasses the mysterious vibe of the show and mirrors her personality simultaneously. It shows her sense of rebellion, her allure and her intelligence all at once, depicting the many elements that make up her character.
Through the use of layers, the complexities of Effy's character are showcased to the audience. Often, Effy wears tank tops, crop tops and off the shoulder jumpers paired with either mini skirts or cargo pants. She most commonly wears mini dresses with fishnets or patterned tights, highlighting the grunge aesthetic of the show. She also wears a lot of ripped clothing, including jumpers and jeans, and often wears a leather jacket which furthers the appearance of the overall aesthetic.
Her style is composed of a predominately dark colour palette, with hues of blue and black making the most common occurrence in her outfits. Using plaid and striped patterns, Effy creates unique but undeniably grunge outfits. Alongside these two patterns which frequently make appearance in her ensembles, she also wears checks (typically in the form of a checkered shirt) and has graphic designs on t-shirts and mini dresses.
She accessorizes her outfits creating an air of glamour to her style whilst still maintaining her rebellious allure and grunge vibe. She layers her jewellery, mixing pearl and chain necklaces together, and adorns her arms with lots of bracelets. In terms of footwear, she wears boots most commonly, once again highlighting the guarded and rebellious element of her personality.
Mystifying. Captivating. The embodiment of defiance and insubordination. Effy Stonem is a character that will undoubtedly withstand the test of time, and her role as a style icon will also.
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murcielagatito · 11 months ago
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something about janine taking the district position and her wardrobe becoming more muted in color than its ever been more refined yes more professional yes but just missing a lil something and how janine takes that and adds her broches as a pop of janine thats so 🥺 and something about how janine is her most authentic colorful self when shes teaching versus muting her colors for the district
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eleventhhourfactor · 6 months ago
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I don't have much to add to the Sonic 3 trailer discourse that many have no doubt already said.
But I do have one thing.
Maria's look has been updated to fit the 70s.
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Look at that hair. Look at that fabric. Look at her! It's like some Partridge Family shit up in here, and I'm all for it!
Goodbye 50s, hello 70s. That's the new 50 years ago, and I'm glad the makers of this movie were sharp enough to make note of it.
Also, did she break her arm?? What the hell, y'all. I need to know why she's in a sling.
Well, since you ventured under the cut...
I have music to share.
Here's some playlists I made of various tracks from the 60s-70s, because Maria's Mixtapes would totally encompass whatever the crew brought on board, from the hits to the more obscure.
https://open.spotify.com/playlist/5lErY9CO6FsbCaxI2Wkg6n?si=whZ1pD2zRcyAoM_AsAZAAg&pi=wzwNglFnT4yLM
https://open.spotify.com/playlist/7G9Ksa5dZSggj72JEcJfoq?si=fn7I_fW-RFi4t8eBEHCUhQ&pi=5yFhN6RfS-CtW
If you don't believe she'd be spinning around the ARK listening to these with Shadow, then what are you doing here?
Anyway, I'm hopping around like crazy. I made these playlists months ago. I had no idea if they'd actually be relevant.
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honeytonedhottie · 3 months ago
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my favorite 90's fashion trends⋆.ೃ࿔*:・💕🐆
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❤︎ animal print
i think that animal print is so so chic. specifically cheetah and leopard print for me. its like the perfect blend of chic and sultry and i absolutely LIVE for it.
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as u can see in the two outfits that i made that incorporated leopard print im heavily utilizing the chocolatey browns and golds and blacks and blending that all together nicely. these outfits have the perfect amount of sexiness and fierceness which is why i LOVE them so much.
❤︎ cargo pants
❤︎ mini shoulder bags
a mini shoulder bag is always the perfect accessory even nowadays! they go along with literally everything and i always feel like such a barbie when i pair a mini purse with my outfit.
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not only is it functional but its also super duper cute and has so many options for versatility. for example u can use a mini shoulder bag as a statement piece or a complementary piece. this is something that paris hilton knew how to do REALLY really well.
❤︎ corset tops
i adore corset tops cuz they're so sexy and cute and they go well with literally anything i think. you can wear them over a dress or as a top, and it pairs really well with any bottom i think. as u can see in the looks i styled i did it with a low-waisted pair of jeans and a mini skirt.
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i see looks like these a lot even in our fashion nowadays so im super happy about that because its just such a timeless trend! as u can see eva longoria's corset top complements her purse and the low waisted jeans and sandals add such a cute touch. i love that the corset top has a structured center that kind of goes outward toward the bust and bottom, its almost princessy.
❤︎ fur coats
❤︎ slip dresses
slip dresses are such an effortlessly elegant look and when i did some research for this post i saw supermodels like tyra banks frequently wearing them which i thought was super cool.
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it just looks so refined and elegant and feminine and CUNT so i absolutely love it! in the look in the middle i love love LOVE how she paired the pink dress with the lime green heels like the color coordination is SUPERB.
❤︎ kitten heels
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im-sew-curious · 1 year ago
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Isn't it glorious?
It’s here! I finally tackled my analysis of Key’s gold Gasoline era costume, worn in his music video for the song, photoshoots, a stage performance at the Inkigayo show, and a live performance at SM Town 2022. I’ll discuss everything from the fabrics used, the gloves, the shoes, complain about the zipper, talk about whatever the heck jumps are, break down all of the tiny little types of ornamentation (including the things I don’t actually know the name for) and more.
It’s scary in the best way. Buckle up. Grab some coffee or tea or vodka and a blanket.
I want to preface this by saying that this is going to be VERY long. I’ve polled my followers and nearly everyone said they want me to get as granular as I want. So I’m doing that. If that’s not your thing, here’s your exit ramp now. I get it. This is absurd.
You can also read it on my Twitter here. It actually has a LOT of bonus photos because they only allow me to have 30 on here, if you’re interested in seeing more. It may help clarify some things, as well.
Now then. Welcome to those who are left. Let’s begin!
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Costumes by Dénicheur by Seo Seung Yeon
For his Gasoline era, Key has had four costumes designed and made by Dénicheur by Seo Seung Yeon, a Haute Couture Designer House that, among other things, makes elaborate costumes for Kpop performers. They’ve got an amazing Instagram portfolio to check out. They made him a gold and black costume for his G.O.A.T in the Keyland concert, the blue and white one for the Gasoline MV, this gold one, and a cream and gold beaded jacket for the 2023 SM Town Concert.
This fashion house’s trademark is intricately beaded, appliquéd…encrusted…costumes. I was able to get some high quality photos from some of you (thanks so much!) And the more I looked, the more I discovered.
If this were a piece of art (well, it is, but not in the same way) “Mixed Media” is what I’d call it. There are literally over twenty different types of beading techniques, appliqués, various types of sequins, trims, braids, rhinestones, chains, and more.
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First, I’ll do an overview of the garments themselves, and then I’ll move on to the ornamentation.
The top (it’s not a jacket, it’s not really a shirt, it’s not a tunic. So I’m going with “top”) has a very boxy torso with exaggerated wide, padded shoulders. They’re completely squared. There are straight sleeves—not too slim, not too bulky. There’s a heavily ornamented oversleeve that reaches down to about his elbows and a “nude” colored full length under sleeve. It also has heavily ornamented cuffs at the bottom the sleeve. It has an exposed zipper up the center back that goes up into a short turtleneck collar. The collar and a portion of the lower neck back region are sheer with some beading and appliqués. There are sheer spirals around his arms and in chevrons on his front and scooping around to his back.
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Just LOOK AT that masterpiece
The trousers are closely cut through the waist, hips, and thighs but become a bit wider at the knee. It looks like they were made full length but are always worn bunched up over knee high boots. They close at the center front with a very beautifully set fly zipper and flat trouser hook and bar. It’s so low profile that it wasn’t until I got some 4K images that I was even sure of where they closed. It was like he had been sewn in. I wrote a whole thread about it on Twitter that reads like a mystery novel, though I already spoiled the ending for you. Sorry.
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The top is made of what is probably a “nude” (aka specially dyed to his skin tone) base fabric to hold the structure, with the ornamentation stitched over top. The external stabilizing fabric is what appears to be some sort of jacquard, possibly silk.
Jacquard is a type of weave, where the fabric is made of long and short “up and down” stitches of sorts, to make a pattern. Because some of the time it uses longer “stitches” on top, it becomes more vulnerable to the fiber breaking and makes it become kind of “fuzzy” looking. This can be especially true if it’s a natural fiber that usually has less structural integrity than a synthetic one. I initially thought this had started to happen on Key’s rear, but after a very close zoom in, I think that’s just a bit of appliqué edge pulling up. I think maybe one of his mic packs is down there too, but I’m really not an expert in that. I did the research so you don’t have to, folks.
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Left: A type of jacquard fabric. The shine comes from the longer top threads, contrasting with details of shorter threads. Right: Is it an applique or is it some snagged fibers? Ultimately, I think it's an applique edge.
Perhaps the most interestingly nerdy thing about jacquard is that it was originally made on a loom that led to the creation of computer programming by utilizing a sort of “binary code.” There were punchcards that showed the strands of fibers when to go up and down. Like “holes and not holes” in which to weave.
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A Jacquard Machine Loom with punchcards that create the desired design on the fabric
It’s important to note that this fabric needs to have some stretch because it is also used to make his very tight fitting trousers. If it were not a stretch fabric, he wouldn’t be able to do this like THIS or…most things, really.
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Even though the jacquard is stretchy, it has some structure to it. It’s used as a stabilizer in between the “flesh mesh” on the outer layer. (aka power net, stretch mesh... There are many names!) It forms the base on which the majority of the ornamentation is stitched.
Flesh mesh is a stretchy mesh fabric dyed to the performer’s skin color and is used to give the illusion that you’re seeing their skin, but it gives much more strength than just a cutout. I wrote a thread about flesh mesh and the importance of taking into consideration the performer’s actual skin tone when building them a costume here
In this case, flesh mesh allows for adornment of these areas, as well. It’s important to note that, even though it’s a separate layer over the base, it is “tacked” through all layers in a regular fashion so it doesn’t droop with the weight of all of the ornamentation.
There are also some parts that have metallic gold applied pieces. This was probably made of a beefy metallic spandex applied on top of the base rather than some solid pleather, due to way it behaves on the body. The latter would have been way too rigid in comparison to the rest of the fabrics.
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Heavy gold stretch spandex, forming a chevron on which to affix beads and other trims
Okay. Range of movement time. You know how I love discussing this. That’s because it’s the single most important aspect of costumes for dancers.
Let’s talk armpit gussets. They’re an American football shaped piece of fabric that is stitched in the armpit partially to the sleeve underarm, and partially to the torso underarm. It’s often made of a stretch fabric, but sometimes it’s out of the original “fashion fabric,” which is what we call the main garment fabric.
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Gussets out of different fabrics under each underarm. You can see the gold bunch under his arm when it's at his side
It allows the performer to more easily move their arms above their chest and head to help keep the top from riding up. You can see in this photo, though, that it does bunch up a little when his arm is down, because of the extra fabric. It has to go somewhere when it’s not taut.
With this particular top, it’s interesting to note that, due to the asymmetrical decoration of his arms, one gusset is the gold stretch fabric and the other is the jacquard. That means that, either both fabrics have the exact same stretch, or his arms may be SLIGHTLY more limited on one side than the other. That’s fun! I really geeked out about this observation.
Often with jackets for dancers, they’ll have what are called “commodity pleats” around the center back shoulder area. They’re a sort of sneaky hidden accordion-like bit of fabric that stretches out during movement that may otherwise split the back open. Taemin uses them a LOT. But, since this top is so boxy, Key doesn’t need them in this instance. He already had the room he needed without any other accommodations.
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They put commodity pleats in the back of most of Taemin's closer fitting jackets. I wish they'd make them the same color as his jackets, though!
With Key’s trousers, we’ve already established that they’re made of a fabric with a decent amount of stretch. But since I can’t find many good photos of his bottom half, I’m unsure about if he also has “crotch gussets.”
By this point, I’m kind of notorious as being the “crotch gusset person.”
The following posts explain them in much more detail, but basically, they’re long triangular wedges that start in the trouser crotch and taper down to nothing in the inseam. These are often put in trousers of dancers when people need a better range of movement.
I wrote about this in detail regarding Taemin’s pleather pants he wore in his Metamorph concert, as well as all of SHINee in the Your Number dance video. You can find my posts on the subject here:(Metamorph) (Your Number)
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Jinki rocking a black crotch gusset in SHINee's "Your Number" Performance Video (Black Version)
Gussets allow for extra room and movement when one is trying to do extreme leg movements like squatting. Unfortunately, I don’t have many good photos of his inseam. There’s so much going on with appliqués and piecing of mesh vs jacquard, it’s hard to tell. Part of the front half of his trousers is flesh mesh, swirling around them. The other parts are the jacquard, whereas the back is all jacquard.
I saw one photo which made me begin to wonder if the inseam is a little further forward than it could be, though. That could mean there IS a gusset. I’m really not sure...I don't have official visual confirmation, but now you know more about crotch gussets either way. You’re welcome.
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That seam line is up a bit more forward than usual. It really has me wondering, because that would happen if there was a gusset installed. Hmmmm.
Okay. Zipper education time. I apologize in advance. Things get spicy but I tried to tamp it down. The center back (abbreviated as “CB” in the industry) of the top has an exposed zipper. This means exactly what it sounds like: it’s exposed. You look at it, and it looks like there’s a zipper right there. It’s not hidden. Sometimes it’s a perfect match, and sometimes it’s “featured.” Exposed zippers actually become a trend every once in a while in everyday fashion.
I thought it was extremely interesting that, on this elaborate costume, they chose to use a zipper with metallic teeth on white “tape.” (The fabric on the sides of the teeth.) It was a huge disappointment for me, actually. I would have loved to have seen the zipper more carefully hidden like his fly was.
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Hello, zipper. I see you loud and clear!
I have to comment a bit on what I view as the one flaw in this otherwise perfect costume. I will preface this by saying that I was not in the fitting room where this was conceived, and I don’t know about any extenuating circumstances and the reasoning behind this decision. But there a few things that I would have done differently regarding the zipper and back collar of this top if were to have made it.
But first: some zipper education. Besides exposed, there are center lapped, as well as regular lapped zippers. With the center lap, it’s like the fabric covers your zipper but you can pull the zipper down through it. Your hoodie probably has one. The regular lap zipper is more like your trouser fly in that there is one flap of fabric that covers the whole zipper, hiding it.
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Top: Exposed. (Though it has a matching zipper and zipper tape.) Bottom Left: Center Lapped. Right: Regular Lapped.
Either of those types could have been used to make the zipper more discreet. I personally would have chosen to use a regular lapped zipper, which is less likely to get snagged than a center lapped zipper.
People have defended the exposed zipper by asking if it’s because it’s less likely to get caught. I very much get this argument, and, technically it’s right.
But, in my extensive experience, I don’t think I can recall a case of an exposed zipper in the back of a costume, quick change or no. It’s unattractive. (Not to mention a dead giveaway in a period garment!)
If it’s sewn well and tested, with the correct size lap and no loose fabric, it will work just fine. There should be a hook and eye at the top to make sure that it stays secure while dancing.
Part of being a good dresser is being methodical and purposeful, not frantically zipping something up in a way that is more prone to snagging. They keep their cool, perhaps taking a couple more seconds but ensuring that they pull it up smoothly. They use their fingers to block the overlap as they guide the zipper up.
(Random side note: I met a dresser once who preferred zippers be installed upside down for their quick changes. Hey, whatever works best for them! I wonder how they discovered that…)
I will also note that, as far as I’m aware, the only times he’s worn this costume, he didn’t need to get in or out of it quickly. I know that he wore it in the MV, the Inkigayo performance, and the photoshoot. He also performed at SM Town Tokyo 2022, though he had 11 songs during which to change between Bad Love and this. He never wore this look at his G.O.A.T. in the Keyland concert. Oh, and the collab with the Jinro frog. I’ll talk about that later.
So ultimately, all of the zipper quick change talk is for nothing. There COULD have been a chance that this was going to be worn during his concert, I suppose. But if not, in the end, I can find no reason that there needed to be an exposed zipper other than: they wanted it that way.
Sorry for that rant. I know that it was intense. I just…wish it were pretty. That’s all. I know it wouldn’t have bothered most people, but I personally think that the costume deserved better!
Well then. They arranged the symmetrical beaded appliqué motifs so they didn’t interfere with the center back line, so it wasn’t an issue being all chonky around the zipper.
Unfortunately, since the zipper was built into the neck with just the “stretch mesh,” it moves very differently than the rest of the top. It has a substantially weaker structural makeup and it can’t support itself the same, so it stretched at a different rate than the zipper on the solid fabric on the bottom. It kind of “bubbled” when he moved and it rode up.
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Showing the neck bubbling, and, on the bottom left photo, you can see that there is some sheer stabilizer to ensure that the zipper doesn't just tear out of the sheer net.
It couldn’t have been helped unless that whole back neck area had been backed with the solid nude base fabric. That’s what I would have done, personally. But using the stabilizer helped a bit. Without it, it may have not lasted a performance.
I don’t know why they did it that way, but the result was rather disappointing to me, especially considering the care that was taken with the rest of the garment.
Okay. End rant. The rest of the costume is EXQUISITE.
One more thing to note is that the zipper terminates about 4” above the top’s bottom hem. It is right around where his waist is. It was built that way to ensure that he was able to move his legs and hips comfortably without getting hung up anywhere.
His knee high boots were covered with the same peach jacquard as his top, as well as utilizing the gold fabric to serve as ornamental buckled straps.
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The stretch element of the jacquard is further showcased by the fact that it pulls over the boot toe smoothly, with little issue. A completely stable fabric wouldn’t be able to do that.
Now for the ornamentation. Oooooh boy. There are around twenty types of various adornments on this costume, and I thought I’d highlight some of them.
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I can spy about 15 different types of ornamentation here alone.
Beaded appliques at the neckline
Heavy chains
Rhinestone appliques and/or individual rhinestone pieces
Bugle bead chevrons
Gold round beads
Yellow individual small rhinestones
Grey beads in between bugle beads
Gold and silver flat braid trim
Gold stretch fabric
Round flat decorative chain
Hanging paillettes
Dark seed beads with some of the paillettes
Gold dangling lil dudes
A sequined applique peeking out from behind a chain
Utilizing the main fabric as a chevon stabilizer as a design detail
About paillettes: these might actually be my favorites. They’re like “floppy sequins” that only have one hole at an edge. They’re made of a very lightweight plastic, so they’re virtually silent. If you wear a dress completely covered in paillettes, you’ll just hear a little rustle. In this case, his were mainly attached via dangly wires as fringe around the upper sleeves. There are a few other random instances throughout the garment where they’re stitched on individually. You can read more about paillettes in my post here.
Appliqués: There are at least three different types of appliqués in this costume:
Beaded
Lace
Sequined
Rhinestone
Appliqués are premade decorative pieces. It looks like someone hand beaded everything on the costume, but they were able to take a shortcut by using these. So no, contrary to what you might believe, there wasn't someone laboriously hand beading every single thing on to this costume.
It still takes FOREVER to invisibly stitch each motif on to the costume as well as, in this case, sometimes layer upon layer. A lot of them are attached to a net base, and in closeups, I saw how they trimmed the net away closely around the motifs.
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On the top, we have the gold paisley sequined appliques. On his trousers, you can see the low profile lurex embroidered lace appliques. Bottom left, you can see the beaded and rhinestone applique. And on the right, beaded appliques. You can see that they're over flesh mesh so, when it's on Key, it just looks like he has a beaded collar.
The sequined, beaded paisley motifs are the most prominent and plentiful form of appliqués, focusing around the top’s cuffs and lower edge. They’re also heavily featured spiraling around the trousers. There are even some appliqués stitched across the seams of the trousers and top.
There are some huge, gorgeous bead and rhinestone appliqués, like this one on his right bicep that you can see in the photo above.
There’s also the Lurex lace (metallic threaded) embroidered appliqués that concentrate mostly on his trousers' waist and hips. It’s low profile without any bits that might snag the top while moving. They added a few jewels to it further down once it was no longer posing any danger to snags. There are also a few flat appliqués on his rear, so as to not make sitting uncomfortable but still be adorned.
Beads and gemstones: There are also individual beads and jewels both sewn and what appears to be discreetly glued on as accents. A popular adhesive we use for that sort of application is called E6000. It bonds pretty much everything from plastic, leather, metal, rubber, and wood. It’s like a slower acting super glue, but is more flexible.
You definitely need to use this in a ventilated area or, ideally, with a respirator. The fumes are no joke! There are little chevrons made out of long tubular metallic bugle beads that were probably glued instead of stitched on. There are also round bronze beads and gold rhinestones glued to the edges of the metallic fabric.
There are little dangling gold dudes, though I don’t know what they’re officially called. There are individual sew on rhinestones. There are circular decorative flat chains. There is gold beaded fringe at the wrists of the sleeves.
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Top left: gold braid, beads and chains are heavily featured. Top right: the dangling gold dudes. I don't know what to call them. Bottom left: Paillettes, hanging on gold wires on the upper sleeve hem. Bottom right: Gemstones highlighting the center of the chest, with a whole organized, beautiful mess of braid, beads, etc.
There’s gold flat “braid” trim that also looks like it has a bit of silver in it to add dimension. It’s basically like a braided ribbon, often in metallic colors. It’s used a lot in military uniforms.
And there are a few other various random beads and trims that show up amongst the circus of adornment.
The layout of the overall design is asymmetrical, with left and right arms and legs that don’t match. However, the front of the top is completely symmetrical (which is extremely impressive) except for a few rampant rhinestones that intentionally deviate a bit. Here’s an abomination I made of the sleeves next to each other to see the asymmetry more clearly.
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I THINK (not based on this photo but others that aren't Frankensteined together with different perspectives) that the sleeves are actually different lengths as well.
Something that I should cover is that with garments made out of a stretch fabric, like Key’s trousers in this case, stitching on something non-stretchy (like some appliqués) can be fraught. The appliqué can keep the fabric from stretching as much as it needs to accommodate a body in it, and it might tear off.
Sometimes, we need to stretch the fabric a bit as we sew on the motif so it will look normal when a leg is in it. It may look a bit puckered when it’s not being worn. The good news is that it appears that most of the motifs in this costume are on what is most likely a mesh backing, so they probably didn’t have to deal with that headache here!
Since the motif on the Jacquard fabric is pretty small, as well as the fact that some of the appliqués wrapped across the side seams, “pattern matching” wasn’t a big priority on this. However, it’s always preferable to keep the motifs at the same horizontal height. This is a REALLY small pattern, so it wouldn't matter terribly, plus the fact that it was so covered it can hardly be seen. There WAS a point on the right side seam where the pattern did match, but the fabric slightly torqued on the left so it didn’t. All in all, it wasn’t a big deal whatsoever. If it were a bigger print though, it could have been. I made a thread about pattern matching here. It's a subject I'm pretty passionate about!
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This side seam was cut so that, at a fixed point, the motif was all at the same level horizonatally at there was a part where the motif perfectly matched up to create one complete one. Because there are curves in the seam, it can't do that everywhere.
Now for a bit of a departure: SHINee and its members have done a few collabs over the years, dancing with the frog mascot from Jinro soju. SHINee did one for Don’t Call Me, Taemin did one for Move, and Key did one for Gasoline.
They dressed the frog up like Key, complete with jewels and chains! It was precious. SO GOOD. Watch it now. I also bring this up because that video was the resource I used to figure out where the gold chains on Key’s top were “tacked” (AKA stitched to keep it held down strategically.) It was a nice close-up view. Thanks, Jinro frog!
(Side note: I have made mascots before and it's ironic because they freak me out. I also refurbished a hot dog mascot that had gotten too gross after public appearances over a decade. My life is weird.)
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I love how scaled-back but accurate the frog's costume was.
Through the magic of the Jinro frog, I found the answer to the question “where were the chains tacked?” Here. Enough that they still have independent swing and look natural, but frequent enough to keep them from smacking him in the face. Based on the way they move, I think that is metallic coated plastic and not actual metal. Also, for safety's/comfortability's sake! You don't want to be thumped in the chest with every move.
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Here's where the chains were tacked
Someone asked me how much they thought this costume weighed. My answer?
I really have no idea…but probably not NEARLY as much as it looks? I'm like 99.9% sure the chains aren't actual metal. I’m not sure if the “jewels” are glass or plastic. The tiiiiiny “seed beads” and "bugle beads" are glass, but there aren’t enough that they would weigh a significant amount. There's a lot of gold braid on there that's very lightweight. A lot of what you see are layered appliqués with sequins and seed beads, which weigh nearly nothing. The dangling paillettes are just a light plastic.
For the garments themselves, as we’ve established, the are a few layers of fabric and mesh, which aren’t very heavy. Because of the “encrusted” nature of the ornamentation, of course, it still weighs a bit more than just a regular top, and is probably kind of rigid on the front. However, it’s not like he’s dancing around in chainmail.
Lastly, there are his gloves. His left one is made out of that heavy gold stretch fabric that was incorporated into the rest of his costume, and his right was also made out of a flesh mesh. From the way it behaves in this photo, it appears to be a much heavier mesh than the top and trousers.
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The right glove has thicker mesh that almost appears to have a natural fiber content that is getting snagged. It doesn't completely conform to the skin like a tight flesh mesh would.
The gloves are heavily ornamented with appliqués and beads. I’m going to guess that these were actually custom made for him, which is a big deal. I know very little about glove making, except it involves a TON of pieces to be done right. Gussets in between the fingers to make them slim and elegant and such. No Mickey Mouse hands here.
Stitching the ornamentation on to gloves is pretty difficult work. You either need a hand form and a curved needle or a very brave stitcher who uses their own hand as a form (palm up.) I haven’t done that for gloves, specifically, but I have been a “sacrificial hand” for other situations. I’m so calloused in most places, I don’t really feel much anymore!
There’s one more aspect to this costume that was seen in the intro for his Gasoline Inkigayo performance: the cloak. He didn’t wear it for very long, but it appears to button across his chest to the other shoulder with snaps underneath. The snaps keep the underlap from peeking out from…under the lap.
It looks like they might have had a wardrobe emergency here, because you can see that two of the three snaps were hastily stitched on with red thread. The ornamentation is asymmetrical, mostly focused on his right side. On his left shoulder, there is a decorative beaded “epaulette.” Those are the ornamental shoulder pieces you often see on military dress uniforms.
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Left: The full cloak. You can see the facing on the inside edges, made of the same fabric as the outside. I'll write about that in a bit, and I'll show you a closer view later. Top right: The red thread holding on the upper snaps. Bottom right: Metallic epaulette.
It’s hooded and made out of the same jacquard fabric as the rest of his costume, and it has a satin lining the same color as the “fashion fabric.” It appears to be about calf length. One of the photos I found actually has a shot that shows the facing, the lining, and how the hem is done. Of course, I nerded out. It’s “self faced,” which means that there’s the same fabric that’s on the outside making up the “facing.” The facing is the first ten inches or so of the inside edge of the cloak. It makes a pretty transition from the outside to the inside, without a harsh switch to lining.
Then, there’s the hem.
While attached at the top, the hem of the lining and the outer fashion fabrics are allowed to “hang out” separately while on a dress form. Because fabrics stretch out at different rates (and it also changes by the direction they’re cut from the fabric, but that’s a whole different lesson…) it’s ideal for something like this to hang on a dress form and do its thing for a day or so.
In an ideal world, you’d have a fitting with your performer and you would mark a “level line” on them while they’re wearing the cloak (and also the shoes they will be wearing. Different shoes can change a lot!)
There are several different ways you can mark a hem. You can safety pin it up the way you want it, using a ruler measuring up from the floor to keep it even. But this can be awkward and clunky.
Or you can safety pin a “level line” and say that it’s, for instance, 18” off the ground, and you’d like the hem to be 16” off the ground. You’d draw a new hemline 2” down from the pins. It's the easiest way to know what's level and then decide exactly what you want to do later.
OR you can use what I call “the poofer” which is a little measuring stick on a tripod with chalk and a rubber squeezy ball that poofs chalk into a line at a set height, instead of dealing with pins. But sometimes the chalk doesn’t like to brush away, so that’s a bit of a risk in exchange for convenience.
First, let’s talk about hemming the outside cloak fabric. Because it may have stretched out unevenly, you may have wildly different hems lengths now that they’ve been “leveled.” Let’s say we’ll leave 6” of “hem allowance” to fold up into the garment so it can be lengthened later if we need to. You’ll trim the rest of it away. I can’t tell you how many times I’ve altered hem lengths on cloaks over the years! I'm always grateful to have extra.
You may want to finish the hem with a “serger” or “overlock” machine, which is the sewing machine that uses 3-4 threads to sew things, often stretch, together and kind of seals off the edges. It’s probably what stitches together the side seams of your t-shirt or hoodie or lounge pants or basically anything stretchy. It’s used to keep hems and the edges of fabrics inside garments from fraying. Sometimes people don’t do it, especially since it's inside, but it’s nice if you’re planning on altering it or if the fabric is really prone to fraying.
The cloak fabric is then thoroughly pinned and hand stitched up. There are many different sneaky stitches which grab a few threads at a time from the front of the fabric and are virtually invisible. Everyone has their favorites. My personal favorite is the “vertical hemming stitch” or “vertical blind hem.” I like it because it holds the inner hem and the outside of the cloak more tightly together than a lot of other styles. The “cross stitch” which is called the “blind catch stitch” here in this diagram is one of the most popular methods. However, I feel it can be a bit too loose some times and is more likely to be caught on something. The one downside of the vertical blind hem is that, if you pull it too tight, it’s more likely to show from the outside. It takes a very sensitive hand to get it right. The lining is usually slip-stitched to the cloak hem.
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Once you’ve got your level line of your fashion fabric, it goes back on the dress form. I’m…not entirely sure I’ll do a good job explaining this because I work best with showing things with points and grunts. My apologies.
You mark the lining to match the level where the hem of the fashion fabric ends. You decide how far up from the bottom of the hem you want the lining to end (in this case, 4”.) So normally, you think you'd fold it up 4", right? Ha! You subtract two inches from that number. This means you’ll be folding up only two inches of lining. But, since we will be stitching it 4” up from the hem, that means there’s a floppy extra two inches. (Cue Advice.) What’s that for? Now I have to tell you about “jumps.”
Jumps are a sneaky trick. This method is used in suit coat hems and sleeve linings as well. Basically, they’re a way to give a little bit of wiggle room with the length of the lining to hem interaction.
After the fashion fabric is hemmed, you hand stitch the lining 4” up from the hem. You have two extra inches of lining. One extra inch of lining is pressed down so there’s an extra inch of “underlap". This photo (top right) showed me that they had done this to Key’s cloak. You can see it stretched out with the pressed line on the left, and it is folded over on the right.
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Left: The "self fabric facing" at the center front inside of the cloak. Top right: The cloak hem showing the underside of the "jump" (left) and it down in its "resting" position (right). Bottom right: the "poofer." They're marking a level line.
If you want to get even MORE granular, that is considered a “soft press”, which means that the iron steams and very lightly rests on the fabric. A “hard press” is what it sounds like. Squish that lil dude and steam the heck out of it. That line is never gonna come out.
Okay. Enough of that. I can’t believe myself.
I could literally discuss this costume inch by inch, but I think I’ve covered it enough that you can peruse it yourself if you’d like and kind of know what you’re looking at.
I deeply admire and respect the, perhaps, 100+ hours of craftspersonship that it took to make this stunning costume. Don’t even ask me what it cost to make!
Do check out the Instagram of @denicheur.official where you can see other costumes they’ve worked on for groups like IVE, Enhypen, Stray Kids and more. They’ve got an amazing portfolio to drool over.
I hope you’ve gained an even greater appreciation for this gorgeous look, and the knowledge you’ve gained here can go forward with you as you enjoy future costumes! And thanks so much for sticking with me. I hope it was worth it!
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seventeenlovesthree · 12 days ago
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Mimi Tachikawa's clothing style - a meta analysis
While their clothing styles are arguably an underlying theme in both Koushirou's and Sora's ways of self-expression (even if it's never at the forefront of their arcs), no other character lives and breathes the idea of expressing themselves through fashion as openly as Mimi. So after Taichi, Yamato and the two redheads, let's take a closer look at Digimon Adventure's very own fashion queen, shall we:
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Adventure (+ Our War Game), age 10/11:
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If there is one thing the viewer can immediately tell about Mimi, it's probably her favourite colour: Through the course of Adventure, you will rarely see her wear an outfit that doesn't include one pink item of clothing (or at least an accessory) at minimum. While she also has a preference for red shades, she absolutely loves pink in all its variations - on her everyday outfits as well as on her pyjamas! In terms of style, Mimi loves to combine comfort with "being fashionable". The feminine red cowgirl dress and beige-brown - assumably - shearling boots are not exactly the most practical items to wear during a camping trip; but they perfectly complement her favourite item, the pink cowgirl hat she hides her long, wavy hair under in a ponytail. In general, hat(s), dresses/skirts and boots are a repeating theme for her, as we will see later on.
Mimi didn't exactly start Summer camp unprepared, as she wears brown gloves (in a similar colour as her hair) and carries around a brown bag with camping equipment all the way. On the other hand, as Mimi grew up in a sheltered household, at the beginning of Adventure, she is very prone to let everyone around her know when her comfort is being disrupted. Thus, it's no surprise that she got coerced into exchanging her travel-ridden outfit (probably sweaty and dirty at this point) for a fancy white-pinkish (!) princess dress, as PicoDevimon's intrigue aimed to corrupt her. After all, she was overwhelmed by the situation - and loves pretty clothes and being comfortable, so she (understandably!) gets lost in the convenience of luxury for a bit. Thus even Taichi telling her how "impractical" the dress would be as a traveling fit couldn't shake her out of it for a while. However: As a mix between red's passion and white's purity, pink symbolizes love, nurture and compassion - and so it shall also come as no surprise that Mimi (encouraged by Sora) eventually found her way back to the right path and leave the spoilt attitude behind for the sake of her duty.
Even though she'll leave the beloved hat behind with Palmon in the Digital World at some point as well - it won't be the last hat she'll own. And also not the last pink one!
02 (+ Diablomon Strikes Back), age 13/14:
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The transition phase between Adventure and 02 already shows Mimi getting a little more experimental with colours, as she actually added white, blue and green - her signature colour - to the mix. However, the viewer is not prepared for just how experimental Mimi would turn out to be! And neither were the animators, as several of Mimi's incredibly varied concept outfits didn't make it into the anime - but let's go through it step by step:
At the beginning of 02, we learn that Mimi's family has moved to the USA - and if the cowgirl aesthetic hasn't been an indicator before, 13-year-old teenage!Mimi will go all out on the American aesthetic and a style that couldn't be more early 2000s: Wearing a crop top that couldn't be closer to the US American flag if she tried, a white short skirt and high heels with white kneesocks. Most notably, for the majority of the season, her favourite colour pink will be a permanent part of her - as she chose to dye her (a little shortened, but more voluminous) hair pink. Additionally, she has adopted the star motive for herself - which we have previously only seen on Taichi! Mimi herself wears them either on her shirt - or as small hairclips in her hair.
Speaking of hair - unfortunately, the viewer won't get to see most of her hair experiments (namely the dark brown dreads, the highlights and the space buns). In one episode, her strawberry blonde perm (and pants!!!) can be witnessed at least - and eventually, we'll see her return to her natural hair colour. She also returns to the cowgirl aesthetic in Summer, once again wearing a pink hat (!), a white cowgirl dress, boots - and pigtails.
In general, one can tell that Mimi undoubtedly enjoys her youth abroad, as she seemed fascinated by American culture and the idea of "expressing herself freely" as a 10-year-old already. In the Adventure novels, it is already implied that Mimi stood out among her peers in school and - similarly yet differently to Koushirou - may be considered an "odd" in contrast to more "more traditional" Japanese customs (such as Sora's kimono-wearing mother as a traditional iemoto). Mimi also never fit into lifestyle aesthetics like Gyaru or Lolita, but definitely thrives in experimenting with extravagant, less traditional clothes and hairstyles through Summer that draw attention and display her personal interpretation of femininity; outfits that are funky, stylish (mainly crop tops, short skirts/shorts and high boots) and, most importantly, individualistic.
By the end of the season and the start of winter, she goes in a bit of a different direction: Her winter outfit is probably one of her most iconic ones - as well as the most high-femme she's ever been: Mimi fully commits to the spirit of Christmas by wearing a pine green goat and hat, accompanied by her long(er) flowy hair, a mahogany red skirt and light brown boots - it's cozy and mature and very Christmas-tree-y! A similarly mature vibe is maintained during Diablomon Strikes Back, as she wears a yellow turtleneck, a mahogany red skirt, a star necklace and brown boots. She doesn't exactly grow out of the experimental expressionist phase - but gets more balance into it. It's all very symbolic for 02!Mimi, who isn't just incredibly self-confident, but has also grown out of her "spoilt princess" tendencies. Instead, she has her own mind and insists on it - in a constructive, self-assured way!
Tri, age 16:
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Tri!Mimi is mostly consistent with the majority of style elements we have discovered so far and actually adds a fashion-related element to her arc. First, let's focus on the things we are familiar with - and add the aspects that are new:
By now, Mimi has stopped dying her hair regularly and mostly sticks to wearing it open and/or with a headband. Sometimes, she does wear a ponytail, still cherishes the cowgirl hat whenever it fits - and in one scene, is even seen wearing unconventional bangs (and bunny ears that almost let me doubt that it was her for a moment, but since she actually wore stars - for the first and only time in Tri -, we can tell that it's her!). Thus, she still likes to experiment with variety!
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Clothes-wise, she still prefers (mostly short!) dresses/skirts/shorts, (sandal-)boots - and of course the colour pink in most of her everyday outfits (with splashes of red, green and blue in between), including yukatas! Tri also lets her wear jeans for a change - but rather rarely.
Her school uniform includes exactly two aspects that differentiate her from the way Sora wears it: First of all, she adds a splash of colour by wearing red-white sneakers (whereas Sora wears standard loafers). Second, she wears rolled-up long sleeves in Summer - and is the only one who does so besides Yamato.
Last but not least, let's talk about the formerly mentioned US American influences that got her in trouble for a bit: After transferring back to Japan, she suggests hosting a Hooters-like café for the school festival - and thus her outgoing, funky (and undeniably more revealing) ideas clash with her more traditional, reserved Japanese classmates.
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Her general sentiment is that she doesn't see the use in holding back or hiding her true feelings and thoughts for the sake of pleasing others. It's her sense of sincerity - that gets perceived as egotism by her classmates- that requires her to balance herself out again (and not just in fashion, as she also got into a fight with Koushirou over priorities as well):
She has to find a way not to give herself up while simultaneously not stepping on everyone else in the process - and just like she did when she got seduced by a princess dress at age 10, things eventually get resolved. Working with Sora and Meiko to create an orange-purple cheerleading outfit, her performance and enthusiasm doesn't just impress her classmates, but helps her to reconcile with them - as the outfit may have shown more skin than they initially anticipated, but was still a good mix between practical, fun and cute for them to seem more open to the idea of experimentation themselves. This subplot also greatly contributes to Meiko's character development, helping her to get a little bit more confident herself!
To quote her in the English dub here: "Fashion demands courage."
Kizuna, age 21:
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Kizuna represents a small shift in Mimi's expressionist attitude - or rather, as she stepped into the world being an entrepreneur, running her own online business, she interprets some of her prior style elements a little... Differently, depending on the situation:
She still loves (short) dresses and will never give up on pink - however, her everyday outfit appears a little different than what we are used to with her. It's still colourful and funky, complemented by earrings and bracelets with splashes of colour. But gone is the cowgirl hat - and the hair she used to wear open for most of the past ten years has been tied back into a (loose) bun. The style is very difficult to describe and even though it's very much Mimi-esque in the way it's individualistic - it looks a little more kindergarten teacher-esque as well. In contrast, her business meeting outfit - a strapless long-sleeve shirt, a black belt and a high-waist skirt in burgundy red - combines familiar elements of Winter02!Mimi and Tri!Mimi.
The epilogue, approximately age 38:
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38-year-old Businesswoman-slash-experimental-TV-star-cook!Mimi elaborated on the look of 21-year-old Businesswoman!Mimi - and while her look definitely evolved, she also returned to her roots again, finding a balance between "more traditional" and "individualistic": She's back to wearing her hair open, it's a little shorter and, depending on how she styles it, either wavy or frayed. The pink cowgirl hat is back too - as well as the whole cowgirl aesthetic, because, let's be real, she would always find a way back to it, considering how it had become such a reoccurring theme for her.
Final thoughts (and headcanons):
Mimi being as experimental as she has always been, trying out all the different things - in both fashion and life itself - absolutely stands for her honest, pure nature. She absolutely has her own mind and trusts her intuition a lot - and this experimental yet straightforward mindset will lead her to make decisions in the end: It helps her to learn exactly what she wants/likes and what she doesn't want/like. Go big or go home, don't hide who you are deep down inside!
It's a very progressive, empowering mindset - and so it shall not even come to any surprise that it's mainly (but not exclusively!) female characters she inspires with her way of thinking. Whether it's Miyako who heavily idolizes and wishes to be like her as she blushes and smiles serenely to herself; Meiko who gains a lot of self-confidence through Mimi's support and encouragement and kisses on the cheek, so she bursts through her self-destructive thoughts and gets "out of the closet box" at least a little more; her female classmates who actually adore and admire her school festival outfit and performance; or, last but not least, there is Sora, who used to take Mimi under her wing, and is, as an adult, reassured by her in return to "spread her wings freely" herself. Personally, it's very difficult for me not to see Mimi's influence and general theme as a metaphor for self-discovery in terms of gender-representation and sexuality as well. (I've made similar points for Sora and Koushirou in their respective analysis posts as well; the former is such a strong contrast to Mimi not only in the way their personalities, styles and arcs contrast each other, but in how Sora struggles so much with her own self-representation in return. The latter's temporary crush on Mimi may even play into the idea of self-discovery as well, but that's a topic for another day. Mimi - in my personal opinion you don't have to agree with! - actually has a lot of aroace energy, as she never actively pursues romance herself in the series. But at the same time, the wlw vibes she causes when she's in the same room with other girls cannot be overlooked! Also, not to say that she doesn't inspire male characters - such as Jyou, Koushirou and Taichi - at various points as well, but that the beautiful part of Mimi's theme of empowerment: even more power to the bisexual vibe as well!)
However, as it is often the case with themes of self-discovery, that kind of sincere, outgoing attitude may not be to everybody's liking. It may even cause Mimi's more revealing/emotion-based choices to clash with other people's preferences. And, as Tri suggests, it may even be controversially considered self-centered and indecent instead of self-confident and empowering by some.
For example, the fact that she spent most of her early teenage years in a - in comparison to Japan - more open society in terms of fashion choices may be met with suspicious eyes among some of her Japanese peers. 02!Mimi did pick more revealing clothes after all, which were typical for Western teenagers in the 2000s - and Tri!Mimi was 100% used to that kind of style, liking to show skin and feeling free and happy while doing so! Which definitely collided with Meiko's more closed-off clothing choices.
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(On a different note, it shall not be ignored that she was also the focus of a lot of heavily sexualized/objectified marketing materials back in the Tri era. So while her wearing crop tops, short skirts and high boots absolutely IS a Mimi!thing, Tri's half-naked fan service promo art can and should be taken with a grain of salt. And while it's not exactly linked to her clothes, Mimi had already faced a lot of Digimon (!) back in Adventure hitting on her as a 10-year-old - such as Numemon and Sukamon -, trying to date her in a rather scummy fashion, so her being the center of weird "fan service" and uncomfortable encounters has always been a thing.)
On the other hand, her learning/knowing exactly what she wants also includes her having reoccurring preferences she will always come back to. And thus, as she grew more mature and self-assured, Mimi never gave up on her own personal roots: The comforting power of pink - let's remember: as a mix between red's passion and white's purity, it symbolizes love, nurture and compassion. And, of course, the nostalgic cowgirl hat that will always link her to her literal soulmate - who wears a pink, almost hat-like flower on top of her head.
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thyfggfy · 11 months ago
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In season 4 his attires are pretty similar to the ones in the last season
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Though you can definitely say that this time around he is leaning more into the business casual style
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I don't think that was a conscious choice from the production , BUT if we were to ignore the external aspect of it , we can theorize that he was going a bit overboard trying to look put together after Allison's death.
Season 5 is easily his worst season when it comes to clothes , because it is just pretty boring .
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The only real highlights are these new jackets
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and this zip-up shirt
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Where are his hoodies!?
Thankfully , season 6 corrects season 5's sins.
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This is the season where he wears jumpers pretty consistently which makes me very happy , cuz I love jumpers.
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In his final moments in the show he wears a coat
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which is obviously meant to portray how mature he has become , but the shipper in me can only think how scisaac coded this is
like what do you mean Scott put his life on hold to deal with other people's bullshit ? NO! Scott and Chris are simply running a few errands. Isaac gave Scott one of his coats to keep warm .They are having dinner later with Chris and Melissa . Shut up.
In the movie his style doesn't really deviate from the one in the series.
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which is fine . He essentially had to speed run growing up so it is not crazy to imagine that he will try to keep things in the middle.
Parts : Scott.1
Jackson ; Derek ; Liam ; Mason ; Theo ; Stiles.1 ; Stiles.2
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youremyheaven · 2 years ago
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Kibbe Observations
Theatrical Romantics often have distinct husky voices. Morgan Fairchild, Jane Seymour, Salma Hayek, Mila Kunis (if you watch Black Swan you can listen to her speak at a lower pitch, people who have husky voices sound shrill when they speak at a higher pitch which is how Mila usually speaks)
I feel like every Kibbe type has a few celebs who intuitively always dress for their type and a bunch of others who absolutely never do lol.
Sofia Vergara, Kelly Brook, Ava Gardner, Christina Hendricks etc are Soft Dramatics who almost always wear their lines.
Salma Hayek, Joan Collins are TRs who pretty much embody TR glam most of the time.
3. Kibbe is based on vibes someone gives off, more than you would think. There are certain criteria that has to be met for each type but there are exceptions, always!!
Audrey Hepburn was 5'7 but she's a true Gamine. It's rare to see a tall Gamine but it's not impossible
Beyonce is also 5'7 but she's a Romantic even though most Romantics are short.
4. Kibbe is about image identity. That means the image you project. You can analyse the length & breadth of someone's shoulders & calves all you like but your image identity is MORE than that. I'll use an example. Mila Kunis & Sarah Hyland, pretty much look like sisters yet the vibes they give off are different.
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Mila Kunis has a very sultry, sensuous "femme fatale" essence (she's verified TR) but Sarah Hyland has a more innocent but kind of mischievous, more youthful vibe. You can easily see that Mila has a more "dark feminine" energy whereas although Sarah has similar coloring and features, she still feels more light feminine.
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Here she is in a very TR-esque outfit but something feels off
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This outfit would look really weird on a lot of people (a tutu skirt for God's sake 😭) but she looks good in it
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in this dress however, she looks like a kid who wore a grown up dress. her youthful vibe contrasts the heavy romantic vibes of this dress
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However, here she looks like a complete doll. again, this look seems to suit her in a way it wouldn't suit most people.
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This dress is a little too intense for her.
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However she looks great here!!
I would say she's Soft Gamine
She has Gamine essence and it's the kind of styling that looks best on her
Let's compare her to Mila Kunis now
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Mila, kinda looks like she's wearing a costume here. It looks very off.
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Here she's in a very Romantic outfit with a dash of glamour and she looks greattt
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Tea length dresses only look good on Gamines imo and here Mila looks very out of place
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despite being very short, tea length dresses, even in a more Dramatic style, does not seem to suit Mila
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Here she is, in a very TR look and it really harmonizes all her features and attributes.
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this dress would be more flattering on a Natural type but Mila does not look like herself here
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aside from the fact that this dress needed some ironing, this is probably the most TR look Mila has ever worn and it really makes her shine
5. In order to be SD, you need to have a T shaped silhouette. Broad shoulders, small waist and proportionately small hips. SDs are not "tall TRs".
6. Sofia Vergara & Joe Manganiello are my SD power couple
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its sooo easy to tell that they both have similar essences and project a similar image
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however, here she is with her former fiancee Nick Loeb. Sofia's overpowering Dramatic essence makes her stand out and she almost looks out of place next to Nick, who is FN. Their essences clash with each other and make them kind of awkward looking together.
There is a meme about how Brad Pitt imitates the women he's with. Let's see how he channels his different essences with different women.
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Angelina Jolie & Brad Pitt are both Naturals (FN & SN) with Dramatic/Romantic essence
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Together they project a very larger than life, powerful, strong and intense vibe
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Here he is, with Jennifer Aniston. as a couple, they project a more grounded, couple-next door, warm vibe. they're like the cool couple on a college campus, two hot people who look good together but in a very earthy, grounded way. Jennifer Aniston is also a Natural (SN)
Brad has Dramatic essence however Jen is pure Natural. so while Brad can pull off a more intense styling, Jen would look kinda out of place in it.
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The dress and leather in general is too overpowering on her
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However, she really shines in outfits like these that let her true essence be reflected. everybody, especially in the last couple of years, has been imitating Rachel Green (and 90s style in general) but imo, its most flattering on Naturals because of the way clothes were designed in that decade.
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Here he is with Gwyneth Paltrow. Gwyneth is yet another Natural (FN) but she has Classic essence. The thing about possessing Classic essence is that you have a perfect yin-yang balance, so nothing stands out individually since everything blends together perfectly. Brad & Gwyneth together sort of bleed into each other, their essences don't contrast each other in anyway, they almost look like siblings😭😭😭 , there is no visible polarity at play.
Brad was with 3 different Natural women yet they all projected a very distinct vibe because of their very different essences.
7. kibbe is about image and how other perceive you. its futile to obsess over width and breadth and circumference and what not. dont miss the forest for the trees. also, there is a lot of variety within each type, not all Soft Classics look the same and not every Gamine is going to look great in tea length dresses. every individual is unique.
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Amy Adams is FN but she's only 5'2. imo, she has a blend of Natural+Classic essence.
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IMO, she was horribly miscast in Enchantment. She does not possess the wide-eyed, gullible "ingenue" essence necessary to play a lost princess. i just wasn't convinced that she's this naive, innocent princess because Amy exhibits a more world-wise, mature and "no-nonsense" vibe.
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be it in American Hustle, Arrival or Sharp Objects, she plays characters that seem to fit her like a glove. She's just very convincing in these type of roles because she seems like a grown up who knows what to do and how to get things done. She does not have the air of a ditzy, confused damsel in distress
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here's Isla Fisher. i specifically chose Isla because her & Amy kind of look alike but their essences are vastly different from each other.
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Isla is a verified Romantic and has Romantic + Ingenue essence and she's perfect in films like Confessions of a Shopaholic because she's convincing as a ditzy airhead who is slightly naive and very confused. (this being one manifestation of the ingenue essence) if you look at her career, she's by and large done a lot of romcoms. It's hard to imagine her in a show like Sharp Objects or a movie like Arrival because the image she projects is far more youthful and sweet.
8. there is a reason why kibbe has its roots in old hollywood. old hollywood studio system manufactured stars the way kpop companies manufacture idols today. the were assigned an image to project and each star managed by the company had their own unique appeal that set them apart from the rest. lauren bacall projects an aura thats entirely different from audrey hepburn or marilyn monroe. liz taylor is completely different from gene tierney. most big stars in those days possessed Dramatic essence, simply because Dramatic essence makes people stand out easily. its a very large, strong, intense essence and gives the individual an edge. but the market created space for all kind of stars, there were actors who had a more boy/girl next door aura, femme/homme fatale aura, a quirky,funny aura and more. these days, cinema in general lacks big stars. imo there hasn't been a truly big star in maybe the last 20 years or so of cinema because no one's projecting an image that appropriately fits them.
however, pop music has had many icons and a huge part of their success is their image. be it taylor swift or nicki minaj or even BTS. people connect to them because they have a stable image identity for others to connect to. they have lore, they switch things up and keep things interesting but there's a bedrock that is unchanging and thats what makes them "stars".
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cherhorror · 4 months ago
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Lady Gaga saying homage to Courtney Love and Kurt Cobain during her Joker Folie a Deaux press tour!
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From her red hair, heavy use of flannel patterns and even wearing a matching sweater, we can see Gaga evoking the Kurt Cobain and Courtney Love’s rebellious spirit, rejection of the mainstream and as well as a troubled, creative legacy.
She is also combining this couple into one whole, like a dyad of grunge, anti establishment, rock star energy. Much like how Joker and Harley are packaged together as two sides of the same coin. A couple both dealing with mental health struggles with one being “the rock star” and the other being often relegated to just “the girlfriend” is very much in line with the story of Harley and Joker and the themes of Folie A Deaux
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