#1910s fashion plates

[resplendentoutfit]

WW I Part II

Women's fashion has less ornament and detail. Pockets were stictched on the exterior of women's skirts and jackets instead of hidden in seams. Jackets were worn longer over the hips and looser fitting with belts wrapped around the waist. Women's waists were no longer emphasized as they had been with corsetted dress. Women's skirts were shorter and showed their shoes.

Suits by Chanel in silk and wool jersey.

La Mode Illustrée, October 8, 1916 | Woman's suit • 1918

Though we don't think of haute couture and war as having anything in common, in France the manufacturing and export of fashionable clothing for women helped to keep the economy going during World War I.

Fashion Plate for the French magazine Les Elegances Parisienne • 1916

While Coco Chanel got her start during the great war, it was Paul Poiret who was the star of the era's high fashion. Referred to as the King of Fashion in America in the 1910s, Poiret is most famous for his designs influenced by Orientalism, Neoclassicism, and Surrealism; the kimono, the Turkish trouser, the slit skirt, and the famous lampshade dress. Mostly, he is remembered for his stance on women’s fashon and the simplification of the female silhouette. He dismissed the petticoat and the corset, as the trends shifted away from tailoring toward draping. He disliked the word fashion, opting instead to design women’s clothing solely as an expression of individuality. “Women are wrong for following one style,” he said.

Paul Poiret's "lampshade" fashions

Chanel photos. The one on the right was taken in front of her first boutique in 1914.

[chic-a-gigot]

L'Art et la mode, no. 43, vol. 33, 26 octobre 1912, Paris. Imp. L. Lafontaine, Paris. Robe de velours ourlée de skungs, garnie d’une broderie de Beauvais. Broderie de Milton Abelson, Regent House, Regent Street, London w. Bibliothèque nationale de France

[historical-fashion-polls]

submitted by @asterroth 💚💛❤️

[history-of-fashion]

1915 McCall patterns Illustrating the new coat lines in a suit of tweed

1915 Simplicity without severity in coats and dresses

(New York Public Library)

[mote-historie]

Fashion plate by Xavier Gosé. Blue satin evening coat trimmed with Irish lace (Manteau du soir en Satin bleu centre avec garnitures d'Irlande). Costumes Parisiens, Journal des Dames et des Modes, Paris, 1 September 1912.

[antiquebee]

Journal des Dames et des Modes, 1912

[pastlivesfinery]

Le Cachet de Paris, 1911 💗

[edwardian-girl-next-door]

Cover of The Delineator, March 1915

via hathitrust

[badassindistress]

The old lady's craft room ecosystem has landed me a treasure!

A book from the 1980s with prints of 1912-1925 fashion plates from the Gazette du Bon Ton! Here are some of my favourites:

They're really fun, illustrations by the likes of George Barbier and Georges Lepape for couture houses like Worth and Lanvin.

They range from dramatic fashion illustration:

To suggested situations where to wear the outfit:

To full story concepts:

(I think the Salomé one is my favourite)

There's more! Much more silly ones I'll post later.

(link here when I do)

[dozydawn]

[diemelusine]

Photograph of Alim Khan, Emir of Bukhara (1911) by Sergey Mikhaylovich Prokudin-Gorsky. Library of Congress.

[ghw-archive]

Henrietta Mackennal, 1913

[chic-a-gigot]

L'Art et la mode, no. 43, vol. 31, 22 octobre 1910, Paris. Robe de charmeuse bleu ancien. Blouse de mousseline de soie grise bordée d’hermine. Broderie arabe de différents tons. Imp. d'art L. Lafontaine, Paris. Bibliothèque nationale de France

[historical-fashion-polls]

previous results

[lost-wits]

Journal des Dames et des Modes, Costumes Parisiens, 1914 - H. Robert Dammy (x)

[mote-historie]

George Barbier. Coromandel. Manteau et robe du soir, 1913. La Gazette du Bon Ton, Fevrier 1914.