#thom ford

[jerzwriter]

My boys showing off those knees. 😂

[genevieveetguy]

. - Your sister says you don't have a family. - No, I don't. - She thinks that you ought to get married and have children of your own, instead of trying to be a father to hers. - Yeah. - Except she thinks you are afraid of the responsibility. - That's interesting... anything else? - She thinks you like policing because you think you are right about everything and you're the only one who can do anything, and when you drink a lot of beer you say things like 'none of the other police know a crook from a bag of elbows!'. At least I think that's what she said.

Witness, Peter Weir (1985)

[bigassbowlingballhead]

Are you ready for tzp these days? 😍

bestie i have been refreshing the instagram of a photographer who was following taylor from city to city from show to show back in september WAITING for a glimpse, a peak, a whisper of tzp.

he was posting some prada this morning, alas, no tzp yet.

[daughter-of-the-author]

Hello!!

Hello!!! I’m rin pines! I’m the daughter of Stanford pines! I know what you’re thinking: isn’t he to old to have kid? And yes he is, but I’m adopted! pfp by @jayxel1102 (Ty for the art 😭)

basically dad found me after I had run away from home due to personal reasons, I was very quiet and shy and I still am but my cousins Mabel and dipper have helped me come out of my shell more. I am 15 and am currently in high school, however many people say I’m childish because I’m autistic and also have adhd. Mabel suggested I get online and try to make more friends so here I am!

also pronouns are she/they

Affiliated blogs (none are mine):

ford: @scienceman333

Mabel: @ask-mabelpines

dipper: @conspiracy-pines

stan. @mightydjdarkenedverliese

wendy: @iceb4gw-c

soos

Pacifica: @pacifica-elise-northwest

McGucket: @fiddlesfords

Robbie: @st1tchedmyheart

Thompson: @thom-thunderstruck

(if there’s a character you want that isn’t here lmk, also I’ll still interact if you’re a character that’s already on here it’ll just be a different universe)

mod note under cut:

Heyo it’s @kaiyax1 again. I do want to say that rin is based off me. Anyways here’s the rules

no nsfw, ableism, homophobia, transphobia, being rude in general, no spamming asks (I mean don’t send the same questions multiple times, you can send multiple at once)

other than that have fun!

Oc ref (none of the images are mine except the gacha ones!! The others are fanart)

[st1tchedmyheart]

names Robbie. Thought this would be... Cool or something. Dunno how much I'll be here.

Don't be weird. Just dont.

Toby you freak, i KNOW your here. Get the hell out

..

🖕

BOO!! stole Robbie's phone again, loserrr~ I'm Hilda Xb Hilda V!! Yeah!!

hilda reference:

robbie literally looks the exact same lmao

🐦‍⬛💊 I MADE ANOTHER ONE LMAO.

Quick cw- this blog will cuss ALOT. It's a teenager, what do you expect? AS A TEENAGER, I also cuss ALOT lmfao

here's some rules.

-appropriate asks. Flirting and innuendos is fine, funny even, but like. He is like. 16. So. Yk.

-do NOT flirt with hilda. She's 11 years old for Pete's sake!!!

-no hateful shit like. Cmon man. No terfs, Nazis, homophobes, etc etc

-you can bully Robbie, but please don't bully me, ill cum/j but seriously don't be a dick. Not just to me but other mods too.

I made this blog on a whim after being inspired by @iceb4gw-c and also seeing literally NO Robbie blogs. Where's my emo (he's technically goth-punk) teen son???

HCs that will be used (updated as we go along):

-VERY bisexual. Probably in the closet about it though (I'm allergic to happiness can't you tell)

-him and tambry broke up. It wasn't anything crazy, and it was a mutual choice so dw.

-still has his band, tho they barely play anymore

-has a shitty yt channel with Thomson where they do ghost hunts.

-hes still a little bit of a dick. Who am I kidding, he's alot of a dick, just less so.

-HE HAS. A GUN. WHY? WHY NOT.

-secretly really likes girly pop must like several timez. Will NEVER admit it tho

-SOMEHOW ended up working in the local bar? Usually a bar tender, but is a bouncer from time to time too. His boss's name is Mr. Russo and he's ✨ Italian ✨

-also for some reason helps with the local paper (yk, the one written by Toby?). Probably because how unsorted everything is actually drives him nuts, so now he helps as a journalist. If you ask him about it, he will deny it though.

-maybe thing for Thompson? (@thom-thunderstruck) He can't tell if he mildly hates him or not

-birthday is June 15th. Don't ask why he just feels like he was born in June to me

Edit: if you read the HC above, uhhh- yeah when I wrote it i completely forgot the Stan twin's birthday was June 15th like. Entirely. Just go with it lmao

HILDA FAX!!! :

-shes Robbie's little sister!

-CHRONICALLY lonely. Give this girl a friend

-has fought half of gravity falls and WON

-has a weird skull collection <3

-goes out of her way to annoy Robbie

-wendy is her favorite of Rob's friends <3

-she KNOWS her brother is gay asf...

-11, ALMOST 12.

-birthday is February 14th!

-diagnosed with ASD and POTS

Anyway that's all have fun

My other blogs: main- @/thecluelessdoctor, @/weirdmageddon-mabes, @/imbackbilly, @/mistamysterystan, @/the-undead-doctor-rp, @/deprogrammed-ford-pines, @/cipherjuice-bioexorist

[berkeleybeautyfashion]

Kimono inspired high fashion

Reimagining the classics with a modern twist - a timeless blend of style and culture🗻

Image sources:

Sakuran (2006)

Lady Snowblood (1973)

John Galliano Fall 1994 RTW

Christian Dior FW 2000

Tom Ford for Gucci Spring 2003

Thom Browne SS2015

[fashionbooksmilano]

Fashioning the Beatles

The Looks that shook the World

Deirdre Kelly

Sutherland House Books, Toronto 2023, 276 pages, 18x26cm, ISBN 9782990823329

euro 40,00

email if you want to buy booksinprogressmilano@yahoo.it

John, Paul, George, and Ringo were more than great musicians: they were the quintessential fashion icons of one of the most exciting and memorable fashion eras of all time. From their starts in black leather through Sgt. Pepper to Nehru collars and psychedelia, the Beatles used clothing to express their individual and group identities and, especially, to grow their following. 

They did it without benefit of stylists or consultants, making their own rules and changing their looks as many as five times a year to keep a few steps ahead of the crowd in the tumultuous, fashion-obsessed sixties. More than fifty years after their break-up, their style continues to animate the collections of some of the world’s leading designers, including Thom Browne, John Varvatos, Anna Sui, Tom Ford, Gucci’s Alessandro Michele and, yes, Stella McCartney. Fashioning the Beatles, the first in-depth look at their sartorial legacy, demonstrates that their inimitable style was not an incidental by-product of their fame but an integral part of their act and a key to their globe-spanning success.

28/10/23

[manic-maniac-man]

HUgE Jan 2010

NEW SHOP GUIDE

2009 was another year of a furious rush of new openings in Tokyo, from the long-awaited flagship stores of major fashion houses to the renewal of exclusive stores for popular domestic brands, to unique select shops and even cafes and bars.

We've compiled a list of new shops you should visit now that are waking up Tokyo.

Kolor

Kolor is known for its use of never-before-seen materials and for creating simple yet somehow sophisticated clothing. This brand, which is currently attracting the most attention, has opened an exclusive store in a quiet alley just off Aoyama Kotsu-dori. The modern space has a unique atmosphere with a combination of different materials such as warm wood, inorganic concrete and stainless steel, and a deep blue carpet. Color's unique use of innovative materials is strongly reflected in the interior design. Another feature is that there is no background music playing so that customers can concentrate on selecting clothes. In addition to the full lineup of men's and women's items, there are exclusive items that can only be found here. This is the birth of a store where you can fully enjoy the worldview of designer Junichi Abe.

TROVE FLAGSHIP SHOP

Trove specializes in creating clothes that are reconstructed with a modern interpretation, using retro, antique, and vintage as their motif. The store is designed to resemble a space that men would not normally experience, with fitting rooms modeled after makeup rooms, creating a calm atmosphere where customers can enjoy shopping at their leisure. In addition to the full lineup of items, the store also offers precious antique accessories such as scarves and brooches collected from all over the world, which further express the brand's worldview.

LAD MUSICIAN SHINJUKU

The neon lights of "LAD" suddenly appear in the busy shopping district of Shinjuku 3-chome, a chaotic place lined with restaurants, record shops, and music stores. This is LAD Musician Shinjuku, which opened as the third flagship store in Tokyo after Daikanyama and Harajuku. Designer Yuichi Kuroda had long wanted to open a store in Shinjuku. The interior of the store, which he directed himself, is surrounded by exposed concrete and has a minimal, compact space with only the bare fixtures displayed. The store is a condensed version of LAD Musician's new values, which show a completely different approach from the previous two stores.

ATTACHMENT DAIKANYAMA

After descending a long staircase, the shop, which expresses the world view of ATTACH MENT, with its minimalist design based on steel and concrete, spreads out through a glass façade. The interior design of the brand, which maintains a consistent identity, was done by AREA DESIGN. The large box-shaped fixture in the center of the store and the vertically aligned steel lights that make use of the high ceiling accentuate the clean space. The Daikanyama store brings together all of Kumagai Kazuyuki's creations.

DRIES VAN NOTEN AOYAMA

This flagship store was created in collaboration with Antwerp-based interior designer Geert Forijans. It has a contemporary store design based on the concept of fusing Japanese and European culture and aesthetics. A huge painting by Belgian painter Herraute de la Ilesse from the 17th century and monochrome artwork by contemporary Japanese artists decorate the walls, linking the artistic colors to the collection. The spacious floor, minimalist in design with concrete and walnut wood, has the feel of a salon or tailor. Geo. F. Trumber, a long-established British grooming manufacturer, is only available at the Aoyama store in Japan.

ENGINEERED GARMENTS

Engineered Garments has finally opened its own store in Minami Aoyama. The interior, designed by GOO FACTORY, which has been handling Nepenthes stores since the early days, is reminiscent of the minimalism of the Tokaido coast. The simple interior, which combines iron and wood, has been well-balanced by Suzuki Daiki. The lineup includes products that are only available at this store, as well as selected imported items. Through the store, the brand conveys the realism of its own New York office.

TOM FORD ISETAN MEN'S

Following the opening of the Hankyu Department Store Men's Building last year, Tom Ford's first flagship store in Tokyo has now arrived at Isetan Men's Building. The interior, which is focused on symmetry, exudes a refined and luxurious atmosphere with a predominant color scheme of gray and deep brown. In addition to a full lineup of items, there is also a wide selection of accessories such as eyewear and fragrances. There is also a made-to-order service on offer, allowing you to fully enjoy Tom's couture techniques.

BLACK FLEECE BY Brooks Brothers

Following on from Bleecker Street in New York, Black Fleece Bible Brothers has opened its second independent store in the world. The boutique, facing the street on the first floor of Omotesando Hills, is a chic space with ebony interiors, classic black fixtures, antique and grey flannel decorations, just like the store in the US. It is a luxurious space where you can fully enjoy the identity that Thom Browne conveys.

UNDERCOVERISM

"UNDERCOVERISM" has relocated and reopened. The interior was designed by Kazuya Sasaki of "Small Clone", an interior designer who has worked on "Quadrophenia" and "Number Nine", under the direction of designer Jun Takahashi. The interior of the store makes use of the inorganic texture of concrete, and the first thing that catches your eye is the impressive shelving system by "VITSOE" designed by master Dita Rams, which sits in the center of the floor. A scene from the photo book "GRACE", released last year, is displayed on the wall halfway up the stairs, further emphasizing the brand's worldview. Also pay attention to the "GILAPPLE" tree planted in the courtyard, which has become the new icon of the brand. We hope you will enjoy the reborn "UNDERCOVERISM".

BURBERRY OMOTESANDO

Burberry Omotesando has reopened after a renovation. The store design was handled by creative director Christopher Bailey. The world's first façade features the brand's iconic mega check pattern boldly cut on the bias, making a big impact. The store is divided into two floors, with the first floor stocked with leather goods, eyewear and other accessories. The second floor houses the full Burberry Prorsum lineup as well as a section selling the brand's signature trench coats.

[amphtaminedreams]

Just in Time for Fashion Week: A Retrospective A-Z Ft. RTW S/S25, Resort 2025, Haute Couture F/W24, etc. Plus my Top 30 (Part 4)

-clockwise l-r: Samuel Guì Yang RTW S/S25, S.S Daley Men's RTW S/S25, Salon 1884 RTW S/S25, Sandy Liang ", Resort 2025-

-Savannah College of Art and Design RTW F/W24-

-clockwise l-r: Schiaparelli RTW S/S25, Haute Couture F/W24, Sea Resort 2025, Sia Arnika RTW S/S25, Simon Miller Resort 2025, Sea RTW S/S25-

-top to bottom: Self-Portrait RTW S/S25, Resort 2025, Self-Portrait Residency RTW S/S25-

-clockwise l-r: Simkhai RTW S/S25, Simone Rocha ", SIXDO by Do Manh Cuong ", Sinéad O'Dwyer "-

-clockwise l-r: Skall Studio RTW S/S25, Snow Xue Gao ", St.John Resort 2025, Stand Studio "-

-clockwise l-r: Sportmax RTW S/S25, Stein ", Stella McCartney Resort 2025, RTW S/S25-

-clockwise l-r: Swedish School of Textiles RTW S/S25, Tanner Fletcher ", The Elder Statesman ", Steve O Smith "-

-clockwise l-r: The Attico RTW F/W24, S/S25, Resort 2025-

-clockwise l-r: Thom Browne Haute Couture F/W24, The Row RTW S/S25, The Garment ", Tibi RTW S/S25, Resort 2025-

-clockwise l-r: Tom Ford RTW S/S25, Toga ", Tolu Coker "-

-clockwise l-r: Tory Burch RTW S/S25, Resort 2025, Ulla Johnson Resort 2025, RTW S/S2

-top to bottom: Uma Wang RTW S/S25, Undercover ", Vaquera "-

-l-r: Valentino Resort 2025, RTW S/S25-

-clockwise l-r: Versace RTW S/S25, Vetements ", Vivetta ", Versace Resort 2025-

-clockwise l-r: Victoria Beckham RTW S/S25, Resort 2025, Vivienne Westwood RTW S/S25, Viviano "-

-clockwise l-r: Who Decides War RTW S/S25, Yirantian ", Yohji Yamamoto ", Wiederhoeft "-

-l-r: Yuhan Wang RTW S/S25, Zuhair Murad Haute Couture F/W24-

-l-r: Zimmerman RTW S/S25, Resort 2025-

The Best of the Year (In No Particular Order)

Soo I'm just gonna do a quick snappy run down here because I wanted to get all these finished in time for the F/W25 shows to start and yet they're on us already! I won't get into anything else about how there are fucking evil men in charge of the world because I'd be here all day! So let's go:-)

-clockwise l-r: Rick Owens RTW S/S25, Loewe ", Christopher Esber ", Atlein ", Jacques Wei ", Ann Demeulemeester "-

1. Rick Owens RTW S/S25, creative dir. ": My thoughts on Rick Owens are that when it's not for me, I find it at best dull and at worst ugly. I know I didn't need to be that harsh, but I'm following up by saying that when I do like Rick Owens, it's incredible and I love it, lol. I really have limited knowledge of Star Wars but this season's looks reminded me of a cunty Star Wars villain. Very Adam Driver, whoever he plays, if his character was a fashion girl, iygm. Gwendoline Christie would look incredible in this stuff.

2. Loewe RTW S/S25, creative dir. Jonathan Anderson: I know it's a controversial opinion but I'm not usually all that impressed by Loewe. Perhaps it's because I'm a basic bitch and I need something at least a little aesthetically pleasing going on. I can do an unusual structure but I need some pretty fabrics or colours or something to balance it out. This year's Loewe filled that brief for me. The cropped leather ponchos are GORGEOUS. I feel like these are the kind of garments high street stores will potentially try and dupe but without this kind of quality, they won't come close.

3. Christopher Esber RTW S/S25, creative dir. ": The best of this collection were the muted Greek goddess-esque pieces and those alone were enough to give Christopher a place on this list.

4. Atlein RTW S/S25, creative dir. Antonin Tron: You could argue that some of what we saw on the runway for Atlein's RTW S/S25 show was a bit pedestrian but you know what, idc! I'd wear the fuck out of it! So much so that I can overlook the blue lip look, which I appreciate the skill it must have took to pull off anyways. The days I tried to make that work for me are ones I am demanding we leave in the past, lmao.

5. Jacques Wei RTW S/S25, creative dir.": Jacques Wei's work is yet another reason I am SO glad that Vogue Runway is finally bloody getting on the Shanghai Fashion Week train. This collection in particular was like a blend of 1920s flapper, nineties detailing and prints, and that delicate yet modern feel I've come to look forward to from the brands which present in Shanghai. what did I do before I was aware of Jacques Wei? Serious question? Wow, wow, wow. I never knew I needed the end result of a rich flapper girl time traveling and rummaging through Courtney Love’s ‘90s wardrobe like this wtf. Finding out that Jacques is a graduate from Paris's Atelier Chardon Savard is no surprise because these are exactly the kind of outfits I picture a Parisian fashion girl wearing in my head. Emily in Paris' stylists, take notes. If they did, then I might actually watch the show.

6. Ann Demeulemeester RTW S/S25, creative dir. Stefano Gallici: Stefano Gallici's take on Ann Demeulemeester is very different from his predecessor's Ludovic de Saint Sernin, which don't get me wrong I adored (still thinking about Hunter Schafer in a RTW F/W23 piece on the red carpet), but I love this too! There were some pieces that were a bit meh but on the whole, the nods to all my favourite periods of fashion were on show. '70s bohemian rock AND the '90s redux of those trends with touches of the era's standard protocol grunge look too results in a collection which for the most part, ticks of all the boxes in my mental style criteria checklist.

-clockwise l-r: The Attico RTW S/S25, Etro ", Ermanno Scervino ", Prada "-

7. The Attico RTW S/S25, creative dir. Gilda Ambrosio & Giorgia Tordini: I have loved The Attico for years and to see Gilda & Giorgia finally get to present a collection on the runway feels well deserved. It was so hard to pick just a handful of favourite looks because everything was stunning. The combination of grungy street style inspired techwear with the high glamour of dripping sequins and chainmail à la Versace/Rabanne closing looks was everything to me<3

8. Etro RTW S/S25, creative dir. Marco De Vincenzo: Marco De Vincenzo is doing an incredible job at maintaining the standard I've come to expect from Etro which remains one of my longtime favourites and at this point, probably will do til the end of time. The brand's cohesive, recognisable aesthetic continues to be an amazing source of outfit inspiration the likes of which you don't get even from the street style of celebrities who throw $$$ at stylists to curate the casual bohemian vibe. Don't get me wrong, there's a tonne of girls on Pinterest and Instagram who do an amazing job. I know people have strong opinions on Florence Given but she's the first big name that comes to mind. In terms of public figures who have MONEY! money though, what's stopping you from dressing like this?

9. Ermanno Scervino RTW S/S25, creative dir. Ermanno Daelli: Ermanno Scervino's collections are like the dainty younger sister to Etro's. Like the Elle Fanning to Dakota. Whom I just found out by the way is the same age as me. An incredibly humbling fact considering she's out there wearing Alessandro Michele's Valentino on the red carpet and I'm...here...writing this...I suppose that is where talent gets you and my reserves are unfortunately limited. If Alessandro Michele ever wants to do an act of charity, my porch door is open and waiting for a delivery:-)

10. Prada RTW S/S25, creative dir(s). Miuccia Prada & Raf Simons: I usually feel such a disconnect with Prada where it's like everyone else is seeing something completely different to me. It's pretty widely beloved and positioned as the pinnacle of "edgy" designer fashion, but it's always seemed a bit too "safe" imo. I finally kinda get it though! This collection and the F/W24 collection, in hindsight, have both lived up to the brand's reputation. Call me a convert.

-clockwise l-r: Nensi Dojaka RTW S/S25, Grace Ling ", Sandy Liang ", Oude Waag "-

11. Nensi Dojaka RTW F/W25, creative dir.": Nensi's designs make me so happy to be a woman<3 I think it would be impossible not to feel like a goddess in one of her pieces.

12. Grace Ling RTW F/W25, creative dir.": Not dissimilar to Nensi Dojaka's work, Grace's expertly channels an otherworldly kind of femininity. But instead of drawing from a mythological past, Grace’s collection has a more futuristic feel. Less mythological siren, more a space age one, iygm??? Like alien queen type shit!

13. Sandy Liang RTW F/W25, creative dir.": The hype around this Sandy collection really lives up to those early collections of hers that I adored. Like this is a progression of the Liang aesthetic I'm on board with: simple, subtle elegance with a bit of a retro feel. Sandy's been on a Miu Miu trajectory for me since she debuted at fashion week, so unfortunately if the pattern serves me right, I expect to be underwhelmed next season. I waver between love and disappointment. With one collection, I completely understand why she is the fashion darling of the 2020s and the next, I'm just not feeling it. So with this being a high, I anticipate a low next time round. Not to shit on her as a designer, because she is OBVIOUSLY miles ahead of anything I could possibly ever hope to achieve, but I feel like there's a slight inconsistency when it comes to her stuff hitting my style sweet spot. It always seems to hit just right for everyone else, it's just me! So yeah. I'm going to show all my love for this collection whilst I can. This is not me being pessimistic, it’s just realism. Hoping for the best but expecting the worst is life’s cheat code for avoiding disappointment, didn’t u know!!! ;-)

14. Oude Waag RTW F/W25, creative dir. Jingwei Yin: Living in London myself, I'm a habitual hater of Central Saint Martin's students, and look ifykyk, they are a consistently pretentious bunch. They are the tyrants of the Tate Modern. But then again, when the place is constantly churning out designers like Jingwei Yin, I kind of understand why. SO much incredible fashion comes out of that place, and Jingwei's brand Oude Waag is no exception to that rule. I absolutely fucking adore this collection, and its gothic take on ethereal, futuristic glamour. Like I said, this top 30 isn't necessarily in order of preference, but if it was, this showcase of excellence would absolutely be in my top 5.

-clockwise l-r: Chloé RTW S/S25, Mugler ", DOMINNICO ", Viviano "-

15. Chloé RTW F/W25, creative dir. Chemena Kamali: everything I see from Chloé since Chemena Kamali took over continues to cement the brand as one of my new favourites. Soooo fucking good, lord!!! I want EVERYTHING from these last few collections in my wardrobe fr. Plus with Chemena being another Central Saint Martins graduate, I feel like her talent is yet another reason I need to try and work through my bias again their students, lo.

16. Mugler RTW F/W25, creative dir. Casey Cadwallader: Mugler on my favourites list? What’s new. It’s not up there with my all-time favourite Mugler collections by any stretch but it’s still got everything I love about the brand going on.

17. DOMINNICO RTW F/W25, creative dir. Domingo Rodríguez Lázaro: Dominnico has done it for me once again. Is it the highest of high fashion brands out there? Probably not. But seriously, it’s criminal that there aren’t any pop girl groups dominating out there right now because this is the kind of collection that would be absolutely perfect for some arena choreo. The pieces taken individually could easily be dressed down too.  There’s so many influences going on in this collection, from Manga superheroine, to nascar edition bratz doll and American football style athleisure which I know sounds disastrous on paper but in reality is so hot!!! I am excited to see where Domminico goes from here.

18. Viviano RTW F/W25, creative dir. Viviano Sue: This season’s Viviano reminded me of a lot of other brands; like somehow Molly Goddard, Bora Aksu, Vivetta, Rodarte, Rave Review, Cecilie Bahnsen, & Marques’Almeida all got together to pull off a scientific miracle (some serious high tech fertility clinic must exist out there ) and their baby is Viviano RTW F/W25. Gorgeousss!

-clockwise l-r: Alexander McQueen RTW S/S25, Valentino ", Zimmerman ", Resort 2025-

19. Alexander McQueen RTW F/W25, creative dir. Seán McGirr: Yet another CSM graduate, I have to give McGirr his flowers here because this is the first Alexander McQueen collection I've really loved since he took over from Sarah Burton and it reminds me of her work a lot. SoOoO PRETTY!

20. Valentino RTW F/W 25, creative dir. Alesandro Michele: Is Alessandro's Valetino basically Gucci 2.0? Do I care? Not at all. The fact that Valentino has always been known for elegance gives Alessandro an excuse to go full ethereal glamour with every single look, the likes of which he'd usually save for the end of a Gucci show. I hope this man stays relevant forever because there's nobody doing it like him.

21. Zimmerman RTW F/W25, creative dir(s). Nicky & Simone Zimmerman: Assume Zimmerman is always going to be on these lists unless I say otherwise at this point, lol.

22. Zimmerman Resort 2025, creative dir(s).": Zimmerman's Resort collection was just as magnificent as their RTW F/W25 offering, so the brand taking up 2 spaces on my list is no surprise.

-clockwise l-r: Namilia RTW S/S25, KNWLS ", Bora Aksu ", Mark Gong "-

23. Namilia RTW F/W25, creative dir. Shayne Oliver: Though it’s not quite on par with the excellence we saw under Nicola Brognano’s tenure at Blumarine, the Namilia RTW S/S25 collection is the closest we got to filling the void he left in the interim between his departure and David Koma's takeover, following that disastrous but well-intended effort by Walter Chiapponi. What a GREAT choice btw. Blumarine is thankfully back on track now Koma's taken over; it is SUCH a relief the brand's higher ups listened to the resounding disappointment expressed by fans in response to the unrecognisable RTW F/W24 collection. Now David Koma's been named Chiapponi's successor, I imagine Blumarine's only gonna go onwards and upwards from here. Though Namilia has yet to quite reach the levels of greatness we saw under Brognano's tenure at Blumarine, a meticulously crafted take on Y2K sleaze complemented by a range of thematic aspects emerging from a revolving door of gothic fantastical mystique (think back to the apocalyptic siren aesthetic courtesy of the RTW F/W23 collection and the rock and roll mermaid vibes of RTW S/S23), Shayne Oliver's approach is not too dissimilar. I’m getting off track here, this was not intended to be an obituary to old Blumarine. It’s in praise of Namilia who to a certain extent have succeeded in capturing the spirit of Brognano's work. Ed Hardy is up there with Juicy Couture & Von Dutch when it comes to y2k sleaze, and the pairing of the brand with a range of faux leather, chaps, fur and latex pieces worthy of a part-time dominatrix, full-time front rider of a motorcycle gang seemed like a chaotic nod to the Blumarine vision of recent years, albeit a nod which still represents a work in progress. I really don’t think Namilia is on Blumarine’s level but it would be unfair to knock the former for the sake of comparing a latter because we’re talking about two brands with a massive discrepancy in capital and customer base. But if Namilia grows as a brand, it has the potential to rival what I imagine Blumarine will once again be with David as creative director.

24. KNWLS RTW F/W25, creative dir(s). Charlotte Knowles and Alexandre Arsenault: Yet more evidence that I owe an apology to Central Saint Martins' students for giving us KNWLS.

25. Bora Aksu RTW F/W25, creative dir.": With the revelation that Bora Aksu is yet another graduate of CSM, this post may as well be "Lauren getting humbled", BUT anyways, I loved this collection. It reminds me a lot of the Simone Rocha aesthetic I was so mesmerised by, in the sense that I feel Bora took  the blueprint of the “ladylike” ideals of the early 20th century and all its fabrics and silhouettes and whimsy and said fuck that and shoved that ideal down the rabbit hole, Mia Wakiowska in Tim Burton’s Alice in Wonderland style. Big fan:-)

26. Mark Gong RTW F/W25, creative dir.": One word: perfection!

-clockwise l-r: Gabriela Hearst RTW S/S25, Miu Miu ", David Koma ", Rokh "-

27. Gabriela Hearst RTW S/S25, creative dir.": Gabriela leaving Chloé was honestly the best outcome for her as a designer. Firstly, not only has her own brand come into her own as an individual with the result being that her collections are stronger than ever, but secondly, Chemena's vision for Chloé is one of leaning fully into the bohemian dream in all it’s glory, which Gabriela always seemed hesitant to do. Probably because as we can see from her solo endeavour, she likes to take things in a more minimalist, rustic direction. It really, really works for her; with her full attention presumably being on what she puts out there as a solo creator, it appears to have given her room to truly flourish and take her brand in a direction that seems more self-assured in its image than ever.

28. Miu Miu RTW S/S25, creative dir. Miuccia Prada: Miuccia Prada was really on a roll here, what with her collaboration with Raf Simons for Prada, and the direction she took with the Miu Miu S/S25 collection being real stand outs for me. Seriously, something must have been in the air when the S/S25 design process was taking place because just like Sandy Liang, Miu Miu ticked all the right boxes for me this time round. Whether I agree on Miu's Miu's greatness is an opinion I go back and forth on all the time, not without much guilty and questioning of my own taste that is, especially because it's consistently every other fashion girlie's wet dream. Don't get me wrong, on the level of the individual garments, Miuccia's impact is insane. There have been so many specific pieces over the last few years that I've adored; for one, she's responsible for the revival of the ultra-mini skirt which I owned many a dupe of myself (before I gained weight and became pathologically fixated on my ballooning legs which just to be clear is a reflection of me and my crippling body dysmorphia rather than any statement about who should and shouldn't wear these kinds of things!!!!). BUT, with that being said, I haven't particularly connected with any of the collections as a whole in quite some time despite Miu Miu being one of my favourites when I first got into unattainable fashion, lol. This season, I felt the love again! In particular, those belts!! Seems like a random detail to get caught up on but I adore them.

29. David Roma RTW S/S25, creative dir.": David Koma's S/S25 collection making it onto my list isn't at all shocking because he does practically every time. Considering the fact I just found out that he ALSO has been responsible for the last few Diesel collections the last few years, paired with his new role as the creative director at Blumarine, I am even more in awe of this man's talent. He never misses. I really can't imagine anyone better to take over the job of creative director at Blumarine, tbh. Maybe Ludovic San Sernin but not at the cost of David Koma, to be clear! I just think a creative partnership between those two would be one for the ages.

30. Rokh RTW S/S25, creative dir. Rok Twang: If you needed further evidence that there's absolutely no rhyme or reason to the order of this top 30 list, take the fact that I've put Rokh's S/S25 show last. It's probs my no.1 of the lot. Anddd he's yet another CSM graduate, which pretty much concludes my journey to admitting that maybe I'll allow those students a little pretentiousness because with the institute's output, they're kinda entitled to it. Until they congregate right in front of every. single. fucking. piece. of artwork I'm trying to get a glimpse of in London which will probs put me right back to square one in my bias against them, lol. Another thing, I’m not one to believe in the universe being some kind of sentient entity but based on the way it immediately gets busy the second I say the store is quiet at work, note that I’m knocking on as I write this: Rok Hwang would also make an ideal consultant at Blumarine. Remember RTW S/S21?? That's the dash of witchiness the pairing of David Koma and Ludovic de Saint Sernin would need to take Blumarine back to its former greatness. I don't think anyone could do what Brognano did in isolation but if there's any trio that would be fit to reach those heights again, it's David, Ludovic and Ron for sure. Rok can join JUST as a consultant though. I say this because if someone else had to take over Rokh completely in his absence it would a loss for the culture. The worst thing to happen in the fashion world since Alessandro left Gucci for Valentino, or before we thought he wasn’t going to continue doing the exact same thing at Valentino he was doing at Gucci, lol, which btw I have absolutely no ill will towards him for. I was never that big a fan of Valentino anyway so it was a worthy sacrifice, as much as many will consider that statement to blasphemy. I said what I said!!

Anyways, that's it for now! I want to keep my into & outtro short and snappy so I can stay on track with covering the RTW F/W25 and Haute Couture S/S25 shows as they happen.

So hope anyone reading is well in spite of the shitshow that the world is swiftly becoming these days and as soon as my degree is done (5 weeks left, wtf!) I will be back with a proper recap of the last couple of years of fashion, entertainment and thoughts if anyone is remotely interested, lmao!

As always, please feel free to DM me if you need someone to chat to:)

Lauren x

[fka-thehomosuperior]

"Fashion Killa" by A$AP Rocky

"Mami in that Tom Ford. Papi in that Thom Browne"

[dollarbin]

Sandy Saturdays #25:

Like an Old Fashioned Waltz

I recently chronicled a fairly formative night in my life which occurred in mid-October 31 years ago; the following, mostly true, story happened a week or two before or after that wild night of knavery and knives. It was far less formative... but still awesome!

Thom Moore and I were really hungry. We needed burritos and neither of us had any cash. I don't know if ATM cards even existed in 1993; if so, neither of us had one and no serious bank would have considered issuing us one, let alone a credit card. After all, neither of us had jobs of any kind and Thom usually sported a thrifted workman's shirt that listed his name as Bobo. Meanwhile, my favorite pair of shorts were about six sizes too big and had been cut to jagged knee length from a pair of what were probably Tom Waits' own corduroy pants in 1972. I tied them around my waist with a piece of rope.

So, there we were, tooling around Pasadena in my parents' armadillo cake (silver on the outside, maroon interior) Ford Tempo and brainstorming how to come up with the necessary $6 for two heavenly, warm and luscious veggie burritos.

We had the taqueria all picked out. The place seemed somewhat famous: they proudly displayed recent press clippings about some obscure airline which was currently serving their burritos at 5,000 feet. I kinda think it's the place in the photo above?

"Maybe we could borrow money from someone?" I suggested. We were hopeless teens: "borrow" of course meant "receive in exchange for nothing and never repay." But Thom was a Pasadena local: maybe he knew of such a generous someone. After all, he seemed to know just about everyone we bumped into. But he turned down the suggestion; most of the people he knew nodded appreciatively when they saw my makeshift shorts. They did not have $6.

"Maybe your parents...?" Thom stopped me before I got to the end of that sentence. His parents were adults with priorities. They would not be buying us burritos.

Thom sighed. "We're gonna have to sell something, dude. Let's go through my CD's."

Thom had a zillion CDs - it was, after all, 1993; and his vinyl collection was the best I'd ever seen. But we were out and about, so we just combed through what he had on him: a dozen or so jewel cases rolling around his backpack.

I, Jonathan was in there; but selling that was out of the question. Thom showed that thing to everyone he met; it was his idea of the world's greatest joke.

He also had Surfer Rosa, Queen Elvis and Henry the Human Fly on him: classics, all, and you can't sell a classic, not even for a burrito. Thom acknowledged that Respect was a largely mediocre record but it was still a Robyn Hitchcock album and therefore it was utterly off limits. Our burrito prospects were dwindling.

But then he found a candidate in the depths of his sack. And that's how I first encountered Sandy Denny's Like an Old Fashioned Waltz.

"Here we go: this album is totally bunk," quoth Thom, waiving it about. "But I don't know... you gotta love Sandy."

At that point I was just discovering Denny: I had the Fairport Convention greatest hits collection that has Stonehenge on the cover, and that was it. And Thom was right, the CD did look bunk: Denny's cover shot looked like she was auditioning for a spot on my grandmother's mantelpiece, and waltzing, whatever that was, was surely the opposite of what we did during Space at Dead shows.

"Yeah, that's the ticket," I said. "But do you think we can get six bucks for it?"

"I hope so; I'm so hungry."

We went, hats in hand, to the same place Thom had bought his copy of Like an Old Fashioned Walz for an easy $12 or more; they offered him just $5, which we took. We were still a dollar short. Curses!

What happened next was desperation lathered in genius. We found - this is all at least relatively true - somewhere around 70 cents in spare change on the floor and under the seats of the Tempo and then a miraculous quarter appeared in the gutter outside the burrito place. We begged our way, at the counter, through the missing nickel.

And, oh boy, those burritos sure tasted good. So good, in fact, that I'm not even sure we made the wrong move selling Denny's ridiculously perfect third solo album. After all, it was a CD copy, and CDs suck.

Plus, Sandy's rich, subtle and utterly magnificent songs were way the hell over our teenage heads:

[tigermike]

SERIOUS Custom:

1951 Studebaker Woodie - Never Slow Down - StreetRodder

Body

Gray Baskerville accurately described Dennis Varni as "a hot rodder's hot rodder." Since buying a '31 Model A as a teenager in the late '50s, Dennis doesn't seem to have slowed down ever. He has amassed a phenomenal stable of collector cars, trucks, vintage race cars, and motorcycles of practically every type, including the '29 Model A roadster built by Boyd Coddington that was named America's Most Beautiful Roadster in 1992. He has participated in motorsports all over the world, including numerous trips to Mexico to race in the famous La Carrera Panamericana, to South Africa for the South African Rally Championship, and to the Bonneville Salt Flats, right here in the U.S., where he drove his Falconer L6-powered "Speed Nymph" streamliner just shy of 350 mph.

Dennis has more checks on his hot rodding bucket list than just about anybody we know. So did you really expect his latest street rod to be something ordinary?

Body Bottom

Any 1951 Studebaker woodie custom could be considered out of the ordinary (how many can you think of?), but Dennis, builder Curt Hill, and the people who had previously helped create this custom woodie, have taken the '51 to an extraordinary level.

This car was under construction when Dennis made the winning bid for it at the auction of the late Joe MacPherson's prized collection. The unfinished project had been started by Doug Carr of Woodn' Carr. It had already been transformed from a sedan to a fastback (based on Thom Taylor's design sketches) and was already a woodie. The top was chopped 2-1/2 inches, and the rear fenders were stretched 18 inches and treated to custom taillight lenses and bezels. The '37 Ford headlights were installed by Steve Davis, who had done some of the early fabrication on the car.

Such an unusual car deserved an equally unique engine. For a while, Dennis considered dropping in a Cadillac engine to create his own version of the Studillac, the Cadillac-powered Stude coupes custom-built in the mid '50s. Then he remembered the one-of-a-kind induction system he'd found at a swap meet decades ago. The mechanical fuel injection system, with wild-looking air bodies, was a prototype created by Propulsion Development Laboratories in the '50s. Everybody had seen it on the cover of Hot Rod magazine in 1959 and nobody had seen it since. The setup is finally in service, feeding a Ford 427 FE engine. Dan Brewer in Torrance, California, did the assembly on the engine and converted the PDL mechanical injection to work with a Hilborn electronic system hidden under the manifold. Edelbrock cylinder heads are topped with Edsel valve covers to replicate the look engine on Hot Rod's cover. The new combination produced 410 hp on the dyno. An adapter fits the Ford to a GM 700-R4 transmission. This is one of the rarest, most unusual engines you'll find in a hot rod, but Dennis is almost nonchalant about it. "Nobody puts Edsels in Studebakers," is what he said.

The interior was entrusted to Sid Chavers in Santa Clara, California. Chavers built custom bucket seats and covered them in tan leather with gray-toned fur inserts. No need to replace the '51 Studebaker dash, so Redline Gauge Works restored the appearance of the factory gauges and updated the internals. A reproduction '54 Stude steering wheel came from Shrock Brothers, which specializes in repro Studebaker parts. Lucky 7 Customs gave the wheel and column their wood grain paint. The perfect accessory to the interior is the set of vintage alligator-grain luggage in the rear deck area, which Dennis found in an antique store in Washington.

The end result is a genuinely unique custom that would probably hover around the top of most people's lists of great Studebakers, great woodies, and great customs.

[hangmanbob]

hangman x bob

TOM FORD x THOM BROWNE

[kwebtv]

Wonder Woman - ABC - March 12, 1974

Superhero / Action / Adventure

Running Time: 75 minutes

Stars:

Cathy Lee Crosby as Diana Prince (Wonder Woman)

Kaz Garas as Steve Trevor

Charlene Holt as Hippolyta

Ricardo Montalbán as Abner Smith

Richard X. Slattery as Colonel Henkins

Andrew Prine as George Calvin

Anitra Ford as Ahnjayla

Beverly Gill as Dia

Sandy Gaviola as Ting

Robert Porter as Joe

Jordan Rhodes as Bob

Donna Garrett as Cass

Roberta Brahm as Zoe

Thom Carney as Fred

Ed McCready as Wesley

[valleeeeejo]

this years met gala legit pissed me off a bit.. like you would swear in the invitation it said “dress in all neutrals” because oooo girl.. I was seeing a sea of beiges and silvers and whites and just all neutral tones I was so irritated...

cause what was this? what was the theme? black tie event? NOOOOO so like what's the problem most of the outfits you'd expect to see at the Grammys or the vmas fuck it some of these dresses you'd expect to see at the kids choice awards before the met. especially cause the theme was like sleeping beauty in the garden... I expected color fuckin some color at least. everyone showed up lookin like the were ready for the renaissance tour... just sparkly and silver....

but anyways I guess here are my fav OFF THEME outfits that you could really see at any red carpet event but they were cute none the less ...

Zoe Saldana for chloe

charli xcx for Marni

Sophia coppola for Chanel and cartier

tom ford for saint Laurent

Jamie Dornan for loewe

Kendall jenner for Givenchy

Rebecca Ferguson for thom Browne

irina shayk for Swarovski

Fka twigs for stella McCartney

keke palmer for marc jacobs

honorable mentions:

alton mason for thom Browne

vittoria ceretti for alaia

da' vine joy randolph for gap

olivier rousteing for balmain

he really ate ngl and showed out and he also gets a pass because of the story behind his look

but yea i’ll come back with my favorite looks that followed the theme