#so i duplicated the layer and colored the bottom one black and moved it slightly lol

[tastycitrus]

based on this screenshot i posted before:

[agblend13]

Hey everyone, I've created a video that shows how I make a shifting 3D effect animation from my 2D artworks using Gimp!

✦ Written guide below the break ✦

I'm using Gimp 2.10 on Pop!_OS

Open your image in Gimp.

Create a new layer over the art, color to black, and lower the opacity.

Starting with a dark to medium gray color fill in each element, working from back to front, visualizing the figures in a 3D space. Black is the background, white is closest to the front.

When your gradient map is complete, move the layer underneath the artwork and go to Filters➺ Map➺ Displace.

In Aux Input double click on the gradient map.

I personally prefer to work in Horizonal Displacement only, so I have to click the little chain link icon to the right to “break” the chain and allow only one axis to be displaced.

It doesn’t take a big shift to make an interesting effect, in this video I only move the artwork 2 degrees in each direction.

Here I displace two images total to create a perfectly looping four frame animation. Frame 1 shifts slightly to the left. Frame 2 is the original unedited painting. Frame 3 is shifting slightly to the right. The final frame is just a duplicate of frame 2, to create a perfect loop that goes: 1 2 3 2 … 1 2 3 2 … etc.

Make your animation! You can open all frames in Gimp to export as a GIF. Note that with your animation layers in Gimp, frame 1 is the bottom-most layer, going up from there.

For this video I simply opened the image files with my video editor Kdenlive, shortened each frame to 00:00;05 seconds, and made the loop that way.

Thanks for watching, let me know if you try this with your own work!

✿ Anka

[hakurasakura]

how did you do the first gif on this set its so nice /post/676833836220416000/ted-lasso-appreciation-week-day-1-fave

hi anon! tysm for the compliments on the gifset!

i would first preface this by i am assuming that you know how to make a basic gif (i.e. sharpening, coloring) and a more intermediate understanding of gifmaking. however, if you do not, i will link a tutorial i did on my personal giffing process (the way i do it now is probably different from what i did at the time of the post)

tutorial under cut

so after i made the base gif, i duplicated it and applied a gradient map of a color of my choice (i chose hot pink for the first gif and a yellow for the third one). then i grouped all of the layers for that new gif into a group and labeled it (always label your layers!!)

with the group containing the colored gif, i changed the blending mode to lighten and moved the group slightly to the right to show off the pink gif that contours dani.

now i want to remove some areas that are not flattering and obscure dani's face. so i applied a layer mask on that colored gif, adjusted my brush tool (make sure the foreground color is black) and erased away the areas i didn't like. after feeling satisfied with what i got, i moved onto the next segment: the coffee beans with gifs inside them

i went to flaticon.com (it's free, all you need to do is download the image and the attribution) to obtain my coffee beans image. then i prepared my three chosen gifs as usual with the added gradient map with the colors of the set. then i dragged the 3 gifs onto the open workspace of the coffee beans image. i first duplicated the coffee beans icon and applied these stroke settings

i turned off that layered visibility and proceed to attach the gifs to the bottom image. i first clicked off the visibility of all 3 gifs. then, i clicked on the magic wand tool

and i click the black parts of one bean. then i applied a layer mask to one of the gifs then turned on the visibility. ta da! the gif is inside the coffee bean! *note: adjust the placement of the gif prior to activating the magic wand tool. you can't change the position of the gif

then i repeated this step for the other two gifs. i turned on the layer for the coffee beans outline and i offset it a little bit to give it some movement.

now for the text in a circle.

i applied the shape tool (with the eclipse option on) and i made sure the dimensions of the circle is even (i.e height and width are both 100 px). i took the text tool and right at the border, where ps indicates a wrap text, i applied my text with the quote. the settings below are for the text i used. (make sure the text is set to the difference blending mode)

and there you go! i hope i explained it clear enough. if you have any questions, pls do not hesitate! my inbox is always open 💕

[soonhoonsol]

Welcome to soonhoonsol’s gif tutorial!

As a nice anon asked me how I make my gifs, I thought it’d be cool to create an in-depth tutorial :) Perhaps this can help some others enter the gif-ing world too!

What we’ll be using for this tutorial:

Software: Bandicam, Avisynth, Photoshop CC 2018, Topaz Labs

File Format: .mp4

Operating System: Windows

Disclaimer: This is just my method. Every gif maker works differently and has different preferences. What works for me may not work for you, and that’s completely okay!

Let’s get into it!

1. Find the best quality video you can find

This really depends on the content you want to gif. For variety shows, music videos or photoshoots, any video of [1080p] should be sufficient. Try not to use anything below 720p.

For stage performances, fancams tend to have higher resolutions [1440p, 4k]. Use these if your computer can handle it. If not, usually 1080p works fine. The best option would be to download .ts files, which provide clearer and less grainy videos.

For Seventeen, you can get .ts files from The Rosebay on Twitter :)

2. Screen recording

As a Windows user, I don’t have a built-in screen recorder on my laptop. So, I use Bandicam, which is a free screen recording software. The only con to it is that it has a watermark.

To combat the watermark, I always have the boundary box a little bigger than the video itself so that I can crop it out of the gif.

This is what the recording would look like:

Just record the scene(s) that you want to gif so your video file doesn’t end up too large! Your recording should be in .mp4 format.

(You may use pure .ts files in Avisynth but it never worked well for me so I usually screen record the .ts video and move on)

You can find your recorded videos in Documents > Bandicam.

3. Avisynth

I followed THIS tutorial to download Avisynth. This software is really helpful if you want sharp and clear gifs! I recommend to follow the steps in the tutorial as the below method stems from it.

- Once you have downloaded it, open up your recorded video from Step 2 and watch it. Take note of the duration you want to gif. (e.g. from 00:01 to 00:05)

- Drag your video file into normalwebrange.bat. On Windows, you can find this in File Explorer > Local Disk (C:) > video. For other .bat files, you may check out THIS tutorial.

- In the pop-up box, key in the start time for your gif (e.g. 00:00:01). It has to be in hh:mm:ss format. Press “enter”.

- Key in the end timing and press “enter” again. A resizer should pop up in an Internet Browser. I found that Firefox works best for me.

- In the resizer, you may indicate the size of the gif you’d like to make. You can also click and drag the video to resize and frame it to your liking. You may refer to THIS post for Tumblr dashboard sizing.

(These are some common gif sizes for stage performances):

1 gif - 540px by 540px (square)

2 gifs - 268px by 350px

3 gifs - 177/178px by 250px

- Under “Preprocessor”, select “debilinear” for the second box. For the first box, you may pick between qtgmc 30 (same frame rate as video) or qtgmc 60 (doubles the frame rate; smoother).

- You will also see “fast” or “slow” options. These are just how long the video will take to render. “Fast” will give you slightly lower quality as compared to “slow”, but usually is good enough.

(You can see that his features are sharper and more defined in the “slow” gif as compared to the “fast” one.)

- Copy the code in the white box. Navigate to the scripting window (it should have popped up with the resizer) and paste the code at line 17. Type a “#” before qtgmc on the same line. This will prevent the software from lagging.

- Click on the inverted triangle at the bottom of the screen. Your video will now appear in the scripting window. Drag the slider to the intended starting point of your gif and press the “home” key on your keyboard.

- Drag the slider again to the intended ending point of your gif and press the “end” key on your keyboard. This blue area you see is the duration of your gif.

- On an empty line (I usually go to line 8), place your cursor there and click “Apply” in the mini pop-up window. Afterwards, remove the “#” from line 17.

- Go to File > Save or press Ctrl + S to save the code. Close the scripting window. The video renderer will pop up. When it’s done, it will automatically close by itself.

4. Using Photoshop and Topaz

I’m using my school license for Photoshop 2018, but if you don’t have that, there are plenty of cracked versions for free. I don’t have any to recommend though so I’m sorry about that :(

I followed THIS video tutorial to download Topaz plug-ins for free. I use Topaz DeNoise (the most helpful) and Clean, but you may use others if you’d like :)

Alright, let’s dive in to the steps!

- Open up Photoshop and go to File > Import > Video Frames to Layers.

- A pop-up will appear. You can find your deinterlaced Avisynth video in File Explorer > Local Disk (C:) > video > temp > video.avi. Follow the settings in the picture and click “OK”.

- Go to Window > Timeline to open up the timeline. You should be able to see your gif spread out in frames. If you press the play button, it should play like a video.

- (Quick optional step I learned from THIS tutorial) Go to Image > Canvas and set the Resample option to “Bicubic (smooth gradients)”.)

- Select the first frame of your gif in the timeline. Shift select the last frame. Go to Window > Layers. Shift select these layers as well.

- With everything selected, click the 3 lines at the top right corner of the timeline. Select “Convert to Video Timeline”.

- At the top of the screen, select Filter > Convert for Smart Filters. Your layers will condense into one layer. Don’t worry, your gif is fine.

- Now it’s time to sharpen the gifs. Go to Filter > Sharpen > Smart Sharpen. Play around with the settings to your liking!

- If you’ve downloaded Topaz correctly, it should appear under Filter > Topaz Labs. If a pop-up asks you for an activation key, you may use THESE to activate it for free.

- Go to Filter > Topaz Labs > DeNoise and/or Clean and play with the settings until you’re satisfied.

5. Blurring

If your gifs have captions/logos that are distracting, you’d want to blur them out. Don’t be like 2018 me that blurred out the logo frame by frame; it’s very tiring. Instead, using this method from @scoupsy‘s tutorial, you’ll save lots of time.

- In the Layers tab (Windows > Layers), select the “New Layer” icon. It should be blank.

- Select the Brush tool. Make sure the “Hardness” setting is below 20%. This will blend the blurring nicely into the gif.

(For the sake of this tutorial, I will be blurring out the Bandicam logo to show you.)

- Paint over the captions/logos. Make sure this is on the blank layer!

- Duplicate (Right Click > Duplicate) the gif layer and drag it so that it’s on top of the blank layer.

- Right click on the duplicate layer and select “Create Clipping Mask”.

- Go to Filter > Blur > Gaussian Blur and play around with the settings until you’re satisfied with the level of blurring. Click “OK”.

6. Flattening & Colouring

- Once you’re done with sharpening and/or blurring, click on the 3 lines on at the right corner of the video timeline and go to Convert Frames > Flatten Frames Into Clips.

- Topaz layers and blurring will take some time to render so you can just chill for now~

- When it’s done rendering, click again on the 3 lines and go to Convert Frames > Make Frames From Clips.

- Convert it back to the gif timeline by clicking on the 3-box icon at the bottom left of the timeline.

- Select the first frame of your gif. It must be the FIRST.

- Scroll to the top of the layers and select the layer at the top. Any other layers you add should be on top of this layer. VERY IMPORTANT!!

- In the Adjustments Tab (Window > Adjustments), there are many different things to play with. There’s a high chance you won’t use everything, but here’s a few of my favourites.

Levels - Adjust the brightness and contrast of your gif in depth.

Hue/Saturation - Useful for changing colours, or switching it to black and white.

Color Balance - Tweak the colours to your liking.

Colour Lookup - Comes with built-in LUTs that you can use as a preset. Great starting point for colouring. Saves time too. You can even download plug-ins for this. 11/10 tool.

Selective Colour - Adjust the vibrancy of specific colours.

- Colouring is completely up to the gifmaker. Go crazy go stupid :D

7. Exporting

We’re almost to the end!

- Set the timing for your gif.

If you used qtgmc30, the best timing would be 0.04s / 0.05s / 0.06s.

If you used qtgmc60, the best timing would be 0.02s / 0.03s / 0.04s.

- Once you’re satisfied with everything, go to File > Export > Save for Web (Legacy).

- Follow the settings in the picture below:

- Tumblr’s gif limit is 10mb per gif. Check the gif size at the bottom left of the pop-up window. Make sure it’s below 10mb; the smaller the better.

- Click “Save”. Choose where you’d like to save the gif.

- Done!

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

And that’s it! You’ve successfully made a gif! Good job you :D

I hope this tutorial was helpful! Please leave some feedback if it helped, or if you have other methods you’d like to share :)

Lastly, if you have any questions, feel free to send in an ask or DM me!! :)

Good luck and happy gif-ing :’D

[bunsblr]

Tu... torial? Pt. 5.

Final part of my tutorial! This is a little all over the place, because that’s how I am in this stage of editing. Also I didn’t proofread this...

Open this in dashboard for best view of the screenshots.

Disclaimer: I have no formal training for any kind of graphics stuff, I work in an office as a receptionist - I serve coffee for a living. I am absolutely self taught and while I consider myself pretty comfortable with photoshop, that doesn’t mean that there isn’t about a gazillion of other things that can be done that I have no idea about. There are people far superior than me in the Sims community. This is just how I do it, with techniques I have picked up through the years. Some things I go over in these will be pretty basic, some things a little more unorthodox. Disclaimer 2: My edits take time. This is what I do to relax, one edit takes several hours for me. Sometimes days :))) Disclaimer 3: My photoshop is in Swedish, which is my first language. I tried my best to find the English translations for every step that I do.

Tools used: The Sims 4, Adobe Photoshop 2020, One by Wacom Pen Tablet (very basic and unfancy).

It´s hair time baby! I very much enjoy drawing hair on sims. I make a new empty layer on top of my base Sim layer.

This is where having a drawing tablet makes a huge difference. We need the brush to be sensitive to pressure to get the effect of hair strands. I chose a hard brush, small small size (how small depends on the picture size of course, but I usually land somewhere 6-9 px)

I pick up a color from the hair, I usually starts with a medium light color.

I start by drawing strands around any tips of the hair so they don't look quite so solid. I do this part with both short and long hairs. Hot lazy tip: straight unlayered hairs is the absolute easiest. This is a layered hair so I start with the bottom and work my way up. I pick up different colors from the hair as I go along, to add dept.

Continuing up in the hair and add strands to the pointy bits.

When I feel like the pointy bits have been softened I select one of my hair brushes. I use these ones by Para Vine.

I start painting "around" the hair with one of the lighter colors picked up from the hair, changing the direction of the brush every once in a while for a more natural result.

After this the hair is looking a little fuzzy, so I'm going to go back with my small harder brush to fill these parts out.

I don't add a lot of them, just small bits here and there for filling.

This is a little overkill but... now we have some of that "squary" thing going on in the hair as well that are still showing through our painted layer. Now we could paint over these, but painting can actually be overdone and I wan't to keep the hair recognizeable because the creator put a lot of work into it! So I go into liquify and smooth over any wonky lines still showing, just slightly.

A comparison of before and after hair. Still recognizeable, but softer.

This is our result so far. We've come a long way, but we're not done.

At this point (or actually sometimes sooner) I add an adjustment Curves layer, this will not end up in the finished image, this is just to give me an idea of what the image might look like with more contrast (which we will add later). I keep this at the very top of the layer panel and turn this on and off as I go. Very important to have it turned off if we are going to eyedrop a color and use that to paint, since it would pick up the wrong hue if we have it turned on.

Now I still want the front of my sim to be a little darker to fit my lighting, but I don't want to go over with any more shadow. So I duplicate my Sim layer, and go to Layer -> Adjustments -> Curves. This will only change the active layer, as opposed to creating an adjustment layer down in the Layer panel that will change all layers below it. I drag the curve down a bit to make my new Sim layer darker.

I add a layer mask to my new Sim layer, and bucket fill it with black color so the new layer gets hidden.

I chose an absolutely HUGE soft brush, with medium opacity, and starts painting white on the areas where I want the new darker layer to be showing. And blend by going back with black where the line is to harsh.

Time to add some highlights. I create a new empty layer between my two Sim layers, and add a clipping mask by holding Alt and hovering on the line between the new layer and my bottom sim layer, until the little square with the arrow symbol comes up and then click. This will make whatever I do on my new highlight layer, only show up on the areas where the layer underneath is filled.

 Time to paint. I disable the curve adjustment layer for this. I choose a bright color, in this case a light pink because I didn't want a contrasting color for this picture. I go with a big soft brush around the edges where I want my highlight to hit. In this case, the arm, the hand, the arch of the back and the calf. I didn't add anything to the face in this picture because I didn't like the way it looked, but usually a little highlight to one of the cheeks is just *chef's kiss*

And somewhere around here I got really stuck and really struggled to follow with this tutorial. I felt the picture was lacking something and I tried several different things. I added light rays, tried creating different light sources, there was a moon at some point. But I ended up with just a simple additional gradient shadow down in the right corner (on a new layer down in the Background layer group). Life changing…

And then I didn't like the pink highlight on the skin (sigh, this is how I work, but it’s not recommended to be this indecisive) so I removed that and added a more beige-yellowee highlight instead. And forgot to take a picture after the highlight was added....

And now I go into nitpicking mode. I add a new empty layer on top of my Sim layer, I add it under the highlight layer so it automatically takes on the clipping mask of the Sim layer, I name it Clean-up Crew and go in to refine anything slightly wonky. Picking up colors with the eyedrop tool and going over flaws with a tiny brush.

When I fixed this little light area on the back of her head I left the Clean-up Crew layer and went to my Hair layer instead, because I still have that separate and it's above all the other layers.

I thought my sim was a little too far down in the picture so I moved her up by selecting my whole Sim layer group and the layer on which I have her ground shadow, chosing the move tool and pushing them up. This will move all the layers in the Sim layer group as well as the ground shadow layer equally.

I'm telling y'all, nitpicking mode could go on forever. Added more strands to the bangs.

Noticed a little pointy part on the calf, so I wen't into Liquify on the base Sim layer and smoothed that out. Since the highlight layer has a Clipping Mask corresponding to the Sim layer, the highlight stayed in place.

I duplicate my Sim layer group once more, and merge the layers within this group. So now the Hair, Highlight and Clean-up Crew is all merged onto the Sim layer. I hide the previous Sim groups.

With my new Sim layer selected, I go to Image -> Adjustments -> Hue/Saturation. I want to make my Sim a little less bright so it will match the background a bit better.

I drag down the Saturation and Brightness slider a bit until I like what I see. After this I save my whole image as a PNG-file because from now on I want to edit the whole picture but still want to keep this psd-file as it is for anxiety purposes. Important: I disable my curves layer before saving this as a picture, I don’t want that brought with me into the next steps because I will be adding new curves there.

I open my new saved PNG-file. I go to Filter -> Convert for Smart filters. This will allow us to go back and change any filters we add to this layer. I go to Filter -> Camera Raw Filter and for some reason this window opens up humongus. I start by dragging down the temperature. How much depends on the picture, usually more if it's nighttime.

I pull up the Whites a bit for a cleaner look.

Now I add a Curve Adjustment Layer. Now you can add Contrast in the Camera Raw Filter as well, but I prefer the curve layer because I like to control the different levels. This way I can make my darkest parts a little brighter, giving just a little washed out flair to it all.

I select my background layer again and go to Filter -> Noise -> Add Noise and choose a level that I think looks good. This just brings the picture together a bit more. Also vintage vibes :)))

I add my frame (because it´s my aestethic and I think it looks cool on tumblr) by resizing my workspace and adding a filled white layer underneath the background layer.

I resize my picture (Image -> Image Size) because we don't need it to be huge.

And they I just fine tune the Filters and Curves until the end of time :’)))

And that is that my friends! That’s the end of the tutorial! I hope you could follow somewheat and that someone found it useful. Thank you for reading and never be afraid of contacting me if you have any questions :) I’m very friendly.

[bringmoreknives]

if join the server will you tell me how to make gifs like the bandom creators server header you made 😲

you don’t have to join the server to learn this lol! anon is referring to this style of gif:

it’s actually pretty simple which surprised me. continue reading if you’d like to learn how to do it!

so first of all, you’re going to want to find the gif you want. whether this is a falling snow effect, a stars effect, anything like that. i got this one from @overlaygifs but i’m sure you could find more by searching “overlay gifs” on tumblr. this is the one i used.

what you want to do is have everything else ready and then you’ll add the gif fairly far along in the process. so for this, i created a new document with my dimensions, added the gradient for the background, and put on the text. i’ll be doing all of this over for this tutorial, so: 

these are the settings i used. then i used the gradient tool to make a gradient directly on the background, and added the text.

make sure your photoshop workspace is set to “motion.” click at the bottom where it says “create frame animation.”

now comes the part with the gif. you’ll want to open the gif in photoshop. it should come up with all the frames at the bottom; select them all using ctrl/command + shift, and then go into the three little lines at the top right of the frame menu at the bottom and select “copy frames.”

then, go back to your canvas, click on the same menu, and click “paste frames.” it will bring up a menu when you do this -- make sure you click “paste over selection.”

once you do this, the canvas will look like this:

you’ll want to drag the text up so that it is at the very top of the list of layers on the right lower menu. then, you’ll notice that your gradient background is only visible in the first frame. in order to combat that, select your gradient in that lower right menu, and click the layer visibility unifier (the eye with the chain). repeat this process with the text layer.

once your layers are properly positioned and made visible, go to that same menu on the bottom where you copied and pasted the frames and click “convert to video timeline.”

once you’ve done that, you’ll be left with this:

go over to the layers on the right and select all of the ones that are just the gif (don’t select the gradient or the text!). for reference, this would be all of the layers above my gradient layer in the above screenshot. once you have them selected, go to filter > convert for smart filters. if it shows you a warning just accept. once you’ve done this, the gif will be converted into an object you can move around, and you can then position it how you’d like on your canvas.

now comes the magic of this, which is changing the blending so that the black disappears. double click on your gif in the layers menu on the right to bring up the blending options. i don’t fully understand blending styles and i won’t pretend to, but i know that lighten, screen, color dodge, linear dodge, and lighter color will all make the white parts only show up. really it’s up to personal preference as to what you’d prefer, they all look slightly different. just play around! if you’d like it to be more vibrant and visible, you can right-click on the layer in that layers menu and duplicate it. that’s what i did here. then save and export your gif as you would normally. you’ll end up with the gif that i posted at the start of this!

alternatively, if you’d like the gif here to be black instead of white, once you have converted everything to video and made the gif into a smart object, select the gif either on the right layers menu or using the move tool and hit ctrl/command + i. this will invert the gif! then you can blend it using the settings multiply, color burn, or linear burn, and duplicate it for extra strength as you’d like. you’ll get this:

aaaaaaand there you go! i hope this was helpful. feel free to shoot me a message if i can clarify anything or help you any more :~)

[momogaoka]

Header Coloring Tutorial

(Requested by anonymous)

What you need:

Adobe Photoshop (any version)

VLC Media Player/ KMPlayer / any player with screengrab capabilities

Mood music (optional)

Here I will be showing you how I make my headers, specifically in a pastel coloring style. This is a long image-heavy post! You can find the whole tutorial under the cut.

0. Put on some background music.

I like to listen to Tatsuro Yamashita's music when I make pastel GIFs/edits because I feel like his songwriting is pastel-colored. (He's also an amazing musician overall. I highly recommend his 1980 album Ride On Time!)

1. Find the image/scene you want to use.

When finding scenes to screengrab, I recommend working with video files that are 1080p or higher. 720p is adequate, but if you have the option to get a copy in 1080p, do it! Avoid working with anything lower than 720p.

To screengrab, open the video file in VLC / KMP / etc. then take a screengrab of the scene you want to use. Each player has different controls for taking screengrabs; go to Settings to find out the keyboard shortcuts.

The screengrab we're using for this tutorial is from Pretty Soldier Sailor Moon Classic Episode 15. Here is the "raw" version:

2. Open your screengrab in Photoshop.

Open Photoshop, then click File > Open > [your screengrab]. Usually VLC / KMP will save the file in your Pictures folder.

3. Crop the image.

Click the Crop Tool, then type in your desired width and height in pixels (px). For headers, it doesn't really matter what size you pick as long as the aspect ratio is 16:9. This online aspect ratio calculator is incredibly useful.

(Disclaimer: I realized only after taking all the screenshots for this tutorial that the example I'm using doesn't have a 16:9 aspect ratio. My apologies. Anyway, do as I say, not as I do. LMAO)

4. Sharpen your image.

Initially, in the Layers panel, you should have one layer named Background. Right-click this layer, then click Duplicate Layer. Then click the eye next to the Background layer to make it invisible.

Now click the Background copy layer. On the menu bar at the top of the screen, click Filter > Sharpen > Smart Sharpen. These are my settings:

Sometimes the difference isn't so readily apparent, but when an image is sharpened, it goes:

(This next step is optional.)

To achieve a sharp look but with softer edges, duplicate the Background copy layer. Click the Background copy 2 layer. Then click Filter > Blur > Gaussian Blur. These are my settings:

At first the image will get all blurry, so set the Background copy 2 layer's opacity to 30%.

5. Create these four adjustment layers as your base.

This is the base I use for almost all of my edits. It helps set the "look" I'm going for.

(I learned this from this tutorial by @completeresources​.)

Above the Layers panel, you'll find the Adjustments panel.

a.) Click Levels (top row, second from left). This adjustment will lighten the image considerably and sort of wash out the colors.

These are my settings:

When you're done, click the arrow at the bottom to return to the Adjustments list.

b.) Click Selective Color (bottom row, rightmost).

Click the drop-down button next to Reds and choose Blacks (at the very bottom of the list). Then move the Black slider (bottom slider) up to 100%. This will "protect" the blacks in your image once you start going crazy with the coloring later.

c.) Click Vibrance (middle row, rightmost).

Set the vibrance to around 30-40. I went with 35 here. This will make the colors pop just a tiny (almost invisible) bit.

d.) Click Gradient Map (bottom row, second from right).

Click the black-and-white option, then OK.

In the Layers panel, change the Gradient Map's blending option from Normal to Exclusion. Then set the opacity to 10%. Now the image will look slightly faded.

Now let's compare the image before and after these adjustments:

6. Adjust the coloring.

So first of all, I just have to say that Selective Color is my best friend. I use it all the time (way too much).

As you can see, the most prominent color in the image is light purplish-pink. I was really feeling the pink, so I wanted to make the image even more pink. To do this, click Selective Color, then select Magentas from the list. I don't have a fixed formula for coloring, so all I really do is play around with the sliders until I find the color I want. Experiment as much as you like. After fiddling with the sliders, these are the settings I ended up with:

Now the purplish parts are essentially gone.

But the yellow-green of the trees is still a little too striking for me, so I clicked Selective Color again, then selected Yellows. I fiddled with the sliders again and ended up with this:

Now the trees don’t clash as much with the pink anymore.

I'm still not completely sold on this coloring at this point. Now I want to add a bit of blue. So I adjusted the Color Balance (middle row, third from left).

These are my settings:

And this is the image:

Some of the purple bits have returned, though they're not as prominent as they were before. The image is still mostly pink.

7. Add one last Gradient Map. For the final step, add a Gradient Map just like last time. But instead of setting the blending option to Exclusion, this time set it to Overlay with the opacity at 10%.

And now here is our finished header:

8. Add a divider. (optional)

If you want an asymmetrical divider or a torn paper divider, here's what you have to do.

a.) Asymmetrical divider - Click the Polygon Tool and make sure the Sides are set to 3 and the color is white (#ffffff).

Now draw a triangle over the header. Make it slightly bigger than the image itself. Then click the Move Tool and check the Show Transformation Controls box so you can adjust the size and placement of the triangle.

This is how the header looks with this type of divider:

b.) Torn paper divider - In the Layers panel, click the New Layer button (second from left, next to the trash can) and set the blending option to Screen.

Then select the Brush tool and pick a brush that could imitate torn paper edges. (The brush I used here is from @completeresources​’ 20k celebration pack.) Then draw over the image. Fill in any gaps if necessary.

This is how it looks with the torn paper divider:

9. Save your header. Click File > Save for Web & Devices. Alternatively, you could also click Ctrl + Alt + Shift + S. Make sure it's set to JPEG, then click Save.

Now your header is ready to use!

So that's how I make my headers, but this is definitely not the only way to color images. There are so many more tutorials out there for other styles of coloring. Keep studying and keep experimenting until you find the style that you really like.

I hope this tutorial helped!

[sketched-in-the-stars]

Black-and-white sculpture: Letter A

First, I used the curvature tool to add points along the interior of the capital letter A. I pulled these curvature points inward and outward to create the silhouette of a woman wearing a dress. I used the pencil tool to refine some of the curves, especially around the hair and the face, because it was difficult to be accurate with the curvature tool. I then copied and pasted the letter manually in a radial pattern. The A’s increase in size as they get further from the center point; this was done to best hide the edges of the letter. Finally, I added a radial gradient behind the pattern to add depth and interest to the piece.

 Black-and-white sculpture: Letter S

I started by using the radial repeat function in Illustrator on the capital letter S. I had slightly elongated the letter after creating the outlines to disguise the letter a little more. I then created a new letter S object. I enlarged and elongated this one, then manually aligned, copied, and pasted the letter around the central repeat pattern to disguise any remaining edges around the letters. I duplicated the entire shape on a layer below and colored it black, then changed the original shape to white. Next, I moved the black shape so that it was slightly offset from the white one like a shadow. Finally, I added a radial gradient behind the shape. I loosely followed the rule of thirds by moving the center of the shape to the bottom third of the page and to the right.

 Colored sculpture: Letter W

First, I used the curvature tool to add points and bend the edges of the letter W to make the angles less harsh and more graceful. Next, I manually copied and pasted the letter to create a smooth vine-like pattern. I alternated between mirroring, rotating, and simply placing the letters depending on which orientation would hide the letters’ edges, until I had a smooth and consistent pattern. I colored it green, then I duplicated the shape on a layer below, colored that dark green, and arranged the lower dark green shape so that it looked like a shadow.  Above the vines, I created a new layer with the same bent W, used the radial repeat function to turn it into a flower, and then colored it in light pink with a yellow center using shapes below the outline layer. I repeated the flower so that they became part of the pattern. Finally, I added a pale-yellow-to-pale-green gradient below it to add some depth and interest.

 Colored sculpture: Letter K

First, I elongated the K slightly, and then duplicated and mirrored it to create a column with interior diamond shapes formed by the two branches of the letter. I then added a few other K’s horizontally within the larger diamonds. My aim was always to hide the edges, so I kept pasting and arranging horizontal K’s until it looked even and clean. I then used the shape builder tool to create shapes in the spaces between the letters. Then, I colored each of the inner shapes in red, beige, yellow and blue. I was inspired by a stained-glass window so I chose light, airy colours and left the outlines black like windowpanes.

[crochetysquare]

Garden Variety, part ii: the rest of them

All of the flowers below in this post are original patterns! None of them are written down for your consumption, but if you’re really serious about crocheting, you can deduce them out yourself or take what you like and recreate it in a way that is so uniquely yours that you’ll never be able to look at mine without feeling like there’s something wrong with them. And though I’ll admire yours, I’ll look at them and feel the same way.

All of these are options on my uquiz “Which crocheted flower embodies your Spirit?” but there are bonus pics below this cut right here:

Let’s start early in my flower-growing process. Please be kind.

Mountain Flower

[image description: a green sparkling square border around a flower with 8 large petals, two on each side of the square, so there are nearly triangular holes in the corners. The petals are a predominantly brown yarn with speckles of light blue and beige. end ID]

An early pattern-free flower. As you can see, there’s some experimentation with bulging double crochet petals built on rows of chains. You’ll be seeing that stitch combo quite a bit. It’s simple, it’s effective. Highly recommend the ol’ [8 dc in 5 ch space]*. Here’s your uquiz description: “I wondered what to call you to distinguish you from the others. You're a brown flower with flecks of blue and beige. One of the first attempted without a pattern. The petals bulge up like mountains, and they are the color of earth and sky. Grounded and dreamy.”

*I made these numbers up; I have no idea what the counting was here.

This flower, and what we’re calling The Nest, and The Sunflower were featured on this post at my real blog. Here’s some more pics of the Nest:

[image description: a very furry, green square with a ring of bubbly yellow stitches around a light blue flower with 8 petals. Second image: a close up of the same square where one furry corner is at the top of the image, and wisps of fur are seen crossing over the yellow flower. Close up, you can see that the yellow petals are cluster stitches around light blue posts. You can also see that there is a non-furry green camo yarn making similarly clustered stitches around the yellow ring. end ID]

To be honest, I don’t know how I feel about this one. The uquiz description is basically: “You’re chaotic,” and will probably be the description that gets changed the most retrospectively. What do you think of it? Is it alright? Is it awful and I should have pretended it never happened? Well, let me remind you that the point of the Quilt in which this resides is partially to explore texture, and there are some textures happening here.

The Sunflower

[image ID: an 8 petaled yellow sunflower with brown and blue speckled seeds. It sits in a blue square background, almost classic granny square so it looks almost checkered on the black background. end description]

It is actually only younger sunflowers which follow the sun (in a circadian rhythm similar to our own), while the older flowers generally face the east, which helps attract pollinators with their warmth. Like the African Flower - pink, there is a reference to Harold and Maude in the uquiz description for this flower because. I mean, it’s a sunflower. “They’re so tall and simple.” Maintaining that simplicity, the border is basically just your classic granny square. That and the Maude associations; hell, I guess this is your granny’s square after all!

[image description: another picture of the sunflower, close up and with slightly different lighting so the yellow looks less washed out by the actual sun. The blue border almost fades into the black background. end ID]

Next we have this white flower I have literally no memory of making:

[image description: a white flower with a circular center and rounded leaves sitting in a dark blue field with a notebook  page background which makes the blue easier to see than the black background featured in the uquiz result. end description]

Moving on.

The Septagon

[image description: a green lacy crocheted septagon sitting on a white background. The inner flower has 7 pink petals in a small circle surrounded by a peach row of thinner petals. This is all one yarn. Second image: a close up where it is set on a black background with the flower taking up much of the right side of the image. The sun hits the yarn in ways that emphasize the fuzz surrounding the wool-blend pink and salmon flower. It looks almost purple in places. End description]

I’m still obsessed with this one. I’m so obsessed my ability to name it eludes me. It will always be only the Septagon to me. The best 7-sided piece in the Quilt. I can’t remember if the 7 sides were deliberate, or if it all just came together like this without my willing it at all. This piece sprung forward from some Fae’s crochet hook, and I merely take credit for hir inspiration.

And finally, The Rose, a piece so finicky it has ended my floral series for now.

[image description: a layered red (almost orange in the lighting) flower. Each layer has 5 petals. 5 little green leaves surround the flower, and it's planted in a brown pentagonal "pot." The crochet pentagon rests on a notebook background to emphasize the rich brown yarn. end description]

It’s a mountain of double crochet/half double crochet petals.

[image description: a close up of the rose part of The Rose. The photo is taken at an angle to showcase how the petals pile up on top of each other. You can tell there is a cat in the house because there are so many hairs clinging to the red flower, and only some of them are yarn-related wisps. end ID]

Let me show you the back so you understand why I’m done crocheting flowers for a little bit. If you don’t speak crochet, saying it’s “a mountain of double crochet/half double crochet petals” means nothing to you. If you do crochet, you might also be like, “but what do you mean by that, Clancy?” Here’s what I mean:

[image description: two side-by-side duplicate pictures of the back. In the right image there are blue, purple, and green curved lines indicating roughly where 3/4 of the rows are located in relationships to one another. Two straight purple lines indicate where the triple crochets which anchor the second row (also indicated in purple), showing that these seem to reach all the way through the center hole. A black arrow points to “(beginning I haven’t tucked in yet)” a loose piece of red yarn. In the left image, without text, you can see two distinct bottoms of rows before all the parts obscured by these two top rows. In fact, the green line indicating the 3rd interior row of petals doesn’t look like it corresponds to anything, and in the key, it says “the middle layer cannot be seen from here easily enough to point out.” You can faintly make out the wood grain behind the flower more clearly than the 3rd and 4th rows of petals. End ID]

[adminleonsrestingplace]

Not an edit request, but could you make a tutorial as to how you do the color swaps? Or is there a tutorial video you know of that I can watch? Thanks :))

I can try my best to kinda explain! I can’t do a video and I never watched any videos myself, so it’ll all be text and screenshots! I’ll put it under the read more!

For starters: I do use Krita for all of my edits including the color swaps! There may be different techniques for different programs, so keep in mind you may have to use a slightly different method for your program!

First you’ll wanna open your sprites! I usually keep both my sprites in their own tabs but it won’t hurt to put the sprites together! I’ll be putting them together for this!

Now for the fun part! The recoloring! I use the color picker to chose the color I need, in this case, Kokichi’s hair color! I’ll do a new layer on top of Nagito’s sprite and rename it to what it’s gonna be so I won’t get confused later!

After that, I’ll apply a mode to the layer (Either color, multiply, soft light, etc, etc,)! For this part, Nagito’s hair is white while Kokichi’s is purply-black, So I’ll use Multiply!After you apply the mode, start coloring! I usually just straight up color it in like a coloring book, but if you know of an easier way then go ahead and try it!

(Let’s pretend that’s all colored in ;0) Now let’s do his eyes! Create a new layer for Nagito and rename it to your liking before making the layer mode Color! Then color pick Kokichi’s eyes for the color and color in Nagito’s eyes!

Hmmm Those are a bit bright compared to Kokichi’s actual eyes! Let’s darken them a bit! Right click on the layer and click “Duplicate” and set the new duplicated layer to the mode soft light! Then turn on Alpha lock (On Krita it is checkered square on the side of the layer), change your color to black, and draw over the eyes again!

Better! I normally do one sprite at a time, but for the sake of this tutorial, let’s move over to Kokichi to talk about other techniques! Whenever you shift focus to another sprite, hide the layers (Usually it’s the little eyeball!) that you used on the first sprite so you can color pick the colors you need!

Uh oh! Problem! We color picked Nagito’s hair color, and tried setting the layer mode to Color, but Kokichi’s hair is just turning black! Multiply doesn’t work either! Soft Light makes his hair lighter, but it’s still purple!There are a couple different ways that we can do this though!1. We can just redraw his hair and color/shade it in without having to use filters.2.We can color in using the Screen layer mode, being careful to avoid the lines in his hair (Screen mode will lighten the lines unlike the other modes, and if using a color close to white, will require the opacity being turned down so you can see the texture underneath).3. We can use a Color layer and a couple Soft Light layers to obtain close to the right shade.What you use here will be completely up to you, and again, you might find a whole nother way that’s easier than any of these! For this in particular I’m gonna go with the option that seems the most annoying! Using multiple color and soft lights! I use this one most of the time! But using the screen option is similar so I will talk about it as well.

The easiest way to do this method is to do your Color layer first, duplicating it, and changing that layer to Soft Light. (Tip! Make your Color layer fully black or white, even if your color picked color is almost white, it’ll look better and be easier to work with if the Color layer is a true black or white!)

Still not bright enough? Keep duplicating the layers until you get what you need! (Tip! You can also dupe your Color layer that’s a true white, make it into Soft Light, and it should make it easier! Just make sure it’s below the layers that are of your color picked color!) Sidenote: if you went with the screen option here, you would’ve needed to put a white Color layer under your Screen layer and then lower the opacity of the Screen layer, but it would’ve turned out to only two layers as opposed to four with this method. Also if you used the screen option, you will need to follow this next step aswell!

Ok! This is close enough! But now my lines are all wonky(Lighter if used Screen)! Well we can fix that!Make sure you’re on your top layer and switch to your erase tool! Make the brush size the size of your lines and erase where the lines are!

All better!

Now Nagito has a bit of brown on the bottom of his hair! How will we do that?Simple! We’ll use the gradient tool! I won’t be able to show you on sprites since I didn’t color that low, but using the tool is super easy I think you’ll be able to get it just with text!First color pick the brown color of Nagito’s hair and make sure you’re on the top layer and that it is alpha locked! Then drag from the bottom of the hair up to a little bit above Kokichi’s eyes with the gradient tool. When you let go of the mouse, a gradient will pop up there! Continue the steps until you get the amount of brown you want!

I think this is all I have to talk about/teach! Really the way I do color swaps is all about messing with layers and colors until I get what I need. If I can’t get that color or a color close to it, then I’ll just redraw that part of the sprite!I hope this helped a little, and if anyone has any other tips to add on, feel free to reblog and add them! Even if they’re not for Krita!

[ashleymalfoy]

Desktop Wallpaper Tutorial

Hey guys! I made this wallpaper for my computer yesterday and made myself a tutorial to go along with it (just in case I ever wanted to recreate it with a different image) and decided to post it here for you!

I followed this tutorial but I did tweak it a bit as well as add and remove some steps. All in all I used the original tutorial as a guideline but I wanted to make sure I give credit where credit is due.

This is my first tutorial so please be kind! Everything will be under the cut for your convenience! 

Step One:

Create a new document of 1440x900px

Open the image you want to use (in this case I’ll be using this image of Chris Evans)

Place your image into the new document

Resize if necessary

Step Two:

Select the rectangular marquee tool

Select a piece of the image to use as a background like so

Step Three:

Duplicate your selection to make a new layer (Ctrl+J on PC/Cmd+J on MAC)

Then hit Ctrl+T (or Cmd+T) and transform your selection like so

Step Four:

With your image layer selected Repeat step three on the opposite side

Step Five:

With your image layer selected

Select your rectangular marquee tool and select a piece of the image near the top

Step Six:

Repeat step three and stretch your selection across the top of the image to the center

Step Seven:

Repeat step six on the opposite side

Step Eight:

Merge the previous two layers together

Step Nine:

Now go to Filter > Blur > Motion Blur and set the values to the screenshot below

Step Ten:

Add a layer mask to this layer

(note: if you are using the same image I am using, go back to your background layer and fill it with black -- i had to do this because after I applied the blur I was seeing some of the transparent background behind the red)

Step Eleven:

Press the letter D on the keyboard to reset your foreground and background colors to black and white

Select the brush tool and select a medium sized brush with a soft edge to smooth out any edges and reveal the pieces of your original image that got covered

Make sure you have the actual layer mask selected when you are doing this

Step Twelve:

Merge all of your layers together (Ctrl+E on PC Cmd+E on MAC)

Step Thirteen:

Select the lasso tool and set the feather to 50px and select your image like so

Step Fourteen:

Invert your selection (Ctrl+Shift+I or Cmd+Shift+I)

Go to Filter > Blur > Gaussian Blur and use the settings below

Step Fifteen:

Create a new layer

Select the gradient tool

Choose the Radial Gradient Mode then choose the gradient that goes from white to transparent

Step Sixteen:

Select (with foreground color) the color #e4c495

Click the center of your document then drag to the edge in order to create a dot

Step Seventeen:

Change the blend mode of the layer to Screen

Set the layer opacity to 50%

Step Eighteen:

Click here and download this set of brushes and install them

Once the brushes are installed select the Clone Stamp Tool and use the brush show in the screenshot below

Step Nineteen:

Create a new layer

Make sure the All Layers option is selected in the tool options bar

While holding Alt click on a body part and then click on another section of the screen to create some particles (be sure to put every click on a separate layer)

You can play around with brush sizes as well as placement

Go in and erase (with a large soft brush) any spots you’re not sure look quite right

This is what you should have so far (or something similar)

Step Twenty:

Create a new layer

Select the Rectangular Marquee tool and make a selection in the center of your image like the image below

Step Twenty-One:

Select the gradient tool and choose Radial Gradient Mode

Select a gradient that goes from white to transparent

Click the bottom of the selection and drag up to create a gradient like the one pictured below

Step Twenty-Two:

Go to Filter > Blur > Motion Blur and set the numbers below

Step Twenty-Three:

Deselect the selection and press Ctrl+T (Cmd+T)

Rotate the box slightly and set the layer to soft light

Press Ctrl+J (Cmd+J) to duplicate the layer

Select the move tool and move the copy slightly over

 This is what you should have so far

Step Twenty-Four:

Let’s clean up our layers area a bit by creating some groups

Click the folder icon at the bottom and then while holding shift, click on the top two layers

Drag them into the folder you just created and rename it Lines

Create another group for the layers created when using the Clone Stamp Tool and name it Brushes

 Your Layers should look like this now

Step Twenty-Five:

Click here to download this image pack

Open any image you choose and select the Magic Wand Tool

Click the black background to select all of it

This is the image I’m choosing to use

Step Twenty-Six:

Now go to Select > Modify > Expand and set the value to 1px

Press Ctrl+Shift+I (Cmd+Shift+I) to select the inverse of the image

Press Ctrl+C (Cmd+C) to copy the selection

Step Twenty-Seven:

Go back to the document we’ve been working on and hit Ctrl+V (Cmd+V) to paste the image

Use Ctrl+T (Cmd+T) to adjust the size of the image you just pasted and move it to where you’d like

Press Ctrl+Shift+U (Cmd+Shift+U) to desaturate the layer

This is what you should have so far (or something similar)

Step Twenty-Eight:

Go to Image > Adjustments > Brightness/Contrast

Set it to the numbers below

Step Twenty-Nine:

Use the eraser tool to erase any unnecessary parts of the image

Step Thirty:

Go to Edit > Transform > Warp

Distort the image as you see fit

Step Thirty-One:

Move that layer to the layer below the gradient dot

Go to Image > Adjustments > Brightness/Contrast

Set it to the following

Step Thirty-Two:

Set that layer to Multiply and set the Opacity to 43%

Step Thirty-Three:

Press Ctrl+Shift+Alt+E (Cmd+Shift+Alt+E) to merge all layers into a new layer

Rename this (I am choosing to rename mine Chris)

 This is what your layers palette should look like now

Step Thirty-Four:

Create a new layer

Select the line tool and create 15 lines as pictured below

Step Thirty-Five:

Press Ctrl+T (Cmd+T) and transform the lines to a 45 degree angle

Step Thirty-Six:

Go to Select > Load Selection to bring up the selection around the lines

Go to Layer > Delete > Layer to delete the layer with the lines

Click on the Chris layer

Press Ctrl+J (Cmd+J) to copy the selection to a new layer

Select the move tool and move the copied selection until your image looks like the picture below

Step Thirty-Seven:

Select the Polygon Tool (or Custom Shape Tool or both!)

Use any color combinations you’d like (I am using #e7c178 and #ddb3d0)

Create a few different shapes (all on separate layers)

Set each layer’s opacity to 40%

Then add the layers to a group and name the group Shapes

 This is what we’ve got so far!

Step Thirty-Eight:

Next save any image of the stars (I just searched google and found this)

Open it in Photoshop and paste it into your document

Move it and adjust it however you’d like

 It should look something like this

Step Thirty-Nine:

Set the layer to Screen

Select the Eraser Tool

Using a medium sized soft brush erase any hard edges

Step Forty:

Go to Layer > Adjustments > Hue/Saturation

Set the values to the picture below (or to whatever suits your photo best - remember you can change any and all of these things as you like to suit your color scheme!)

Step Forty-One:

Select the Chris layer and then select the Polygon Lasso Tool

Make a selection of a small triangle

Press Ctrl+J (Cmd+J) to create a new layer from the selection

Press Crtl+T (Cmd+T) to transform and move the selection where you please

 This is what we should look like at this point

Step Forty-Two:

Reset your foreground and background colors to black and white by pressing D

Press X to swap them (meaning your foreground color should now be white)

Select the brush tool and a small soft brush

Press P for the pen tool and draw a path around the triangle we created in the last step

Right click on the path and choose Stroke Path

Input the values below

Step Forty-Three:

Go to Filter > Blur > Gaussian Blur

Set the Radius to 3px

Set the layer opacity to 20%

Press Ctrl+J (Cmd+J) to duplicate the layer

Set the duplicated layer to Overlay with an opacity of 80%

Add both triangle layers to a group (named Triangle) and then set the opacity of the group to 70%

Step Forty-Four:

Click the very top layer and then create a new layer

Select the gradient tool and then select Radial Gradient

Select a gradient that goes from white to transparent

Click the top left corner of the document and drag diagonally down to the bottom

 This is what it should look like so far

Step Forty-Five:

Set the opacity of the gradient layer to 75%

Go to Layer > New Adjustment Layer > Curves

Set the graph to look like the picture below (or adjust the curves to your liking!)

Step Forty-Six:

Click on the group called Lines and duplicate it

Move it above the Chris layer

Select the move tool and move the group so the picture looks like this

Step Forty-Seven:

Select the type tool

Select a font (I’m using Cedarville Pnkfun1 Cursive *which I found on dafont.com here*)

Select a color of type for your text (I’m using #e9cfb8)

Type anything you want, in this case I am using a quote from Chris

I set my font size to 30pt (this worked for the font I’m using) then adjusted the words and centered the text so it looks like the image below

Step Forty-Eight:

Press Ctrl+Shift+Alt+E (Cmd+Shift+Alt+E) to create a new merged layer

Go to Filter > Sharpen > Unsharp Mask

Set the values to this: Amount - 79%, Radius - 0.6px, Threshold - 0 levels

Step Forty-Nine:

Save your file as both a PSD and a JPEG (I do this just incase I feel like I want to go back and edit anything on the original)

You’re all done!

The final image should look like this!

[jwalkermars]

Album Cover and Back Text Experiments + Designs (Photoshop)

Here are the text developments i was experimenting with to create my album. The name that I chose for my album from the list of names in the last thread was ‘Atlas’ and that is what I am experimenting with here. Each experiment that I have created here has a brief explanation on how it was made and the step what went through it to reach the final product.

All of the type faces and effects could be made into a unique and interesting cover and back page for my Album.

This first piece here was rather quick to perform as there is not a lot of step that need to be taken into action to make it happen.

The first thing you want to do is type out your message or word, here for me it was ‘Atlas’ Once done with this you want to head over to the. Blending options tab and make your way over to the ‘Stoke’ sub section and simply apply the stroke in the color you are working with. Then go over to the blending options and turn the ‘Fill Opacity’ down to 0% by doing this you are left with the outline of the letters and the middle showing the background in the layer below.

By then you will have one of these words or phrases to then you want to duplicate the word by using cmd + right click and drag both beneath and above. Once done with this you can then selection all of the word layers by shift clicking all the layers and turn it into a smart layer, combining all the layers into one editable layer.

By then you can start manipulating the words however you want. This can be by any tool, liquify, blur etc. By in this situation I went with the ‘Swirl’ effect under ‘Filters’ then ‘Distort’ in the sub section. When applying the swirl effect you should be left with something that looks a little like mine above.

Font - ‘Coco Goose Classic’

With this one it brings back the the glitch effect and practise that I have gone over and used multiple times during my time in this course by now, mainly in last terms project.

Here I show my understanding of the glitch effect at a higher lever and with more experience with the style and also the software in general. Just like the picture above it looks rather refined and complicated to pull of but is a lot more simple the further you strip it back. By starting off with this one you want to  type out your starting word in white, as this give the glitch look the most dramatic effect. Then you want to duplicate the white text layer 2 more times so that they are directly under the first text layer, you can do this by using cmd + J.

After duplicating the layers you want to head into the blending options for the 2 new created layers then in the options for one layer you want to remove the R channel from RBG and for the other channel remove the G and the B once this is done you can move the under layers to both the right and left of the white text as seen above.

By then you want to selected all the text layers and rasterise them then group them into one layer (this makes it easier to make the next edits). Once merged together you need to use your marquee tool to selected bit you want to move slightly to make the glitch effect. This doesn't have to be precise, any cut will look good. Although you want to mix up how big you are doing the cuts to leave a level of inconsistency in the effect and not to man made. The cuts can be made by holding the cmd + arrow keys left and right from when the area is selected with the marquee tool.

Then it’s a matter of doing some final adjustments to really make it shine. Such as here I duplicated the glitched text using cmd + J then applied motion blur in a vertical formation to add additional depth and a light black stroke to the text for additional contrast in layers.

Font - ‘Lemon Milk’

This neon sign just like any other neon work in photoshop is simple yet amazing. The glow mixed with the unique curves and drips in the text is enough to pull anyones attention. Start of by using the same technique you used in the first effect to leave the text with just the stroke. Once done with this you head over to your blend settings and then head over to outer and inner glow making sure that the out glow is more powerful than the inner glow. Set them to what your think it a good level to be set at (or what you think looks the best in your opinion). Also make sure this glow Is in the same color or hue as the text you are working with.

When you have made your text glow you want to make your way over to the Liquify tool. Something I am getting very familiar with now in my work. Adjust the size of the brush using the bracket keys and start to drag wherever you think looks good. (This piece is very versatile to how you like it and what you think looks good). Here I used a mix of the ‘Forward Warp tool and the ‘Pucker tool’ to create the drops at the end of the letters.

When backed out of the Liquify menu the last touch you need it to use the soft brush in the same color as the text to create a few large blogs behind the text in a fresh layer to add in a faded glow in the background to make the text stand out more. When making you dots of added glow make sure you turn the opacity down to not make it to over powering.

Font - ‘Minecraft Game / Menu Font’

This is the first piece of work I have made where I have incorporated the use of the mask layer tool in it and I honestly love how it came out looking. This would look great as a company logo or a great addition to my portfolio if added into the right style of work. 

To start of with you want to start with the shape tool and draw out a long skinny rectangle in which covers most of the canvas. Then you want to duplicate that shape layer however many more times until it reaches near to the bottom of th page. When that happens you will have tones of single shape layers that you want to shift selected and then transform into a smart object. Then again for the last time here in these experiments go to filters and use the liquify tool. In the tool this time you don't want to make many drastic changes as the more subtle the better with this one as you can see above. 

When finished you want to type out either the word or the letter into a new layer you want to have the effect masked onto and magic wand it all. Then in the layer with the lines on you want to make a layer mask and once its make you want to ‘unsee’ the text layer and the effect will be printed onto the letter.

This effect is so versatile and im sure I will find many uses in the future in more work when it comes to using the mask feature as I have tend to stay away from it in the past as I was not 100% certain on how it worked but now using it and properly getting stuck in with it I couldn't love it anymore!

[chaekkung]

I'm not that anon but I wouldn't mind a tutorial if you have any free time at some point?? Please 😮💕 Your headers are always so pretty I'm in awe ❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️

hewwo!!! firstly thank u!!! :((( it means a lot really :’D.. and it’s not problem it’s a sunday today and im board so i’ll make a quick tutorial!!! sadly i dont have the psds for my headers and stuff saved but i recreated a random-similar-ish one just now that i’ll use for this tutorial if you dont mind!! 

so this is what ill be using: (it looks slightly diff but this covers most thingies i use when i make my headers!! also.. it’s ... not good but it’ll work for this)

disclaimer: this is how i do things but might not necessarily but the right/easiest way to do it!! im just too lazy to look at proper tutorials but do which ever way it works for you!! and also im going to simplify things so it doesn’t get way too long so a little bit of photoshop knowledge would help ! also this is like a guideline but u can of course use whatever pictures/backgrounds you prefer!

1. open up a new blank canvas and make sure the dimensions are 16:9 and i usually make the image size about 1000-1500px

2. create a new layer and put a solid color on it 

3. find any pretty scenery or image or design that you want to use for the background! (im using a scenery) and then drag it on top of your canvas

4. select the image layer and go to blending options and set it to luminosity and adjust the opacity/fill as you like!

so far it should look something like this:

5. next drag your already made transparent image (png) on top of the canvas! (im using changkyun’s picture!) and then from there add adjustments and coloring as you see fit on the png. for me i try to go for something that matches the backdrop and theme! (something soft for this) 

6. make a new layer then select the brush tool and pick a color that matches your canvas! this will be the ‘background color’ for your mobile theme that will mix in nicely with it! this is optional but i always do this because i want my theme to flow nicely into my header.

set the brush to a fairly large size, and the hardness to about 20-30%. then color the bottom strip of the image like so:

7. and then you can customize the entire image to your liking! add cliparts or doodles or text! (i wont cover this part since it’s so free)

8. ok so adding the moving gifs! it seems intimidating at first but it’s pretty simple! this is kinda the main point of this tutorial so im gonna break this down further:

a. on the bottom of the screen, click ‘Create Frame Animation’ and bam there will be one frame in your timeline!

b. find a gif you want to use, preferably transparent or with a black background

c. open the gif in ps separately, and see how many frames it has. then select all the frames (you can easily to that by selecting the first frame and then scroll to the last frame and click it while holding down Shift!) and copy ALL frames 

d. then go to your original work where u have the one frame and then duplicate it to however many frames the moving gif has! (keep clicking the lil paper w the fold in the color until that number) then set the delay to whatever as usual like ur gifs!

e. then select ALL the layers you just made and then:

paste frames (the ones you just copied)

when the options pop up after you click it, MAKE SURE YOU SELECT “Paste Over Selection” and the box “Link Added Layers” is checked off!

f. then the gif will be placed over the image and then now you convert it to a video timeline like u would with gifs and convert all the layers of the moving gif to a smart object, now you can resize and move as needed!

i.e your bg is black, use the ‘light’ or ‘screen’ blending option

for example, mine looks like this right now:

and then after i use screen:

then i just added more adjustment layers (play around with hue/sat and exposure and selective color) and then done!

ok so that’s pretty much it!! since i simplified it a lot, if you’re not accustomed to ps and how to do some basics then dont be afraid to ask :D i skipped over adding text and images but if u need help im here!! 

[journeysintowebcomics]

Lettering in Webcomics - a Reference Post

Imagine you have finished the perfect artwork for the latest update for your webcomic. You feel so proud about it you want to hang it on your wall. You want to post it immediately! You want everyone to see it! But before you can do that, you need to add dialogue between your characters.

And that’s where you get stuck. No matter where you place the speech balloons, you’re covering too much of your drawing. It all looks badly placed. You accidentally make a speech balloon that goes from side to side of the frame. It’s a major disaster! What did just happen and how can you avoid it? Let’s answer those questions now.

The charm about comics and webcomics is that they’re a combination of text and images. It’s true its main strength is the fact the reader can look at the art depicted, but a webcomic is never complete without dialogue or text.

However, filling your webcomic to the brim with text and dialogue is not how webcomics work. It’s rare to find the exception to these rules, such as Homestuck, and even then it’s only because of the difference in format. It’d be tedious to read a webcomic that has paragraph after paragraph crammed in a single frame!

As if all that wasn’t enough, you also have to remember that if you place the text badly, it’ll make the reader overlook the art you worked so hard on or even get confused, cardinal sins in this type of work. If you strive to be a webcomic author, you must understand how to place dialogue and text properly. That’s what this post is here for! Here are some handy tips that will allow your webcomic’s text shine without sacrificing anything in the process!

GREAT! WHERE DO I START?

Not so fast, enthusiastic creator! Lettering isn’t something you add in the end. You need to plan this carefully from the beginning. Webcomics are a visual medium, and that’s a double-edged sword. You can communicate a lot through art, but there’s not much space for dialogue unless you plan carefully from the very start. You can’t clutter the page with line after line after line!

That’s why, before starting to draw the page, you need to be aware how much dialogue you’ll have this time. Write it somewhere, analyze how much space you will need. Keep in mind the text is a piece of a larger picture, so to say. You can’t let it overshadow the rest of the page.

I’M DONE PLANNING.

Congratulations on completing the first step! Now you may start drawing. Whether you sketch on paper or digitally doesn’t matter, what matters is that you sketch. Why? Because this way you can plan where you’ll place the speech balloons. It’d be a shame if at the end your dialogue covered too much of the art, this can be easily prevented if you sketch. While you draw, imagine where you may be placing the speech balloon, and avoid drawing too much inside that small area. You also may adjust the size of the frames, leaving enough space for the speech balloons without having to sacrifice part of the art.

So you got your art done! Well done, now place the speech balloon. There are many speech balloons you may use, depending on what you want to communicate.

These are more like guidelines, the most used meanings for these type of speech balloons. You as the author of the webcomic have the liberty to adjust speech balloons according to your style and needs. You could modify speech balloons to make them fit a character. Color, shape, font, all that are qualities you can change according to situations. You’re the one who has the last word on the matter!

---Guilded Age

To keep your speech balloons orderly, try to accommodate the words in the shape of a square. Avoid long lines, occupy as little space as possible with the speech balloon. Make sure the tails are pointing at the character who is speaking. It doesn’t have to touch the character; all it needs to do is point in the general direction the character is at.

Angelica Maria, the author of Solstoria, mentioned this as her usual technique on how to accommodate text inside a speech bubble:

I try to keep the text in a speech bubble looking like a "Square", so for example

"Oh no, I'm being

held accountable

for my actions!"

The middle line can be extended slightly depending on the shape of the bubble. This is just something I keep in mind, it's not something you have to follow to a T or anything. I just want to make the lettering look somewhat good.

Wait, but how to position the speech balloons? Generally, it’ll be better to position them in a way that’ll guide the reader’s eyes in a natural direction – left to right, in other words. Take this for example:

---Girl Genius

See? The speech balloons are positioned in a way it’d be easy for the reader’s eyes to move towards the right. The dialogue always starts on the top left corner and moves either in an arch towards the bottom right corner or in the top and bottom parts of each frame. It’s not a requirement to set your speech balloons this way, but it’ll certainly make it easier for the reader to read!

To put it in a nutshell: as a rule of thumb, remember to direct the balloons placement in a way that leads from left to right or from top to bottom.

Another thing you have to remember and keep in mind if what font you’ll use for your lettering. What kind of font would be the best for your dialogue? Any font that’s legible at small sizes will be good. Maybe Comic Sans would be your first thought because, just as its name says, it was created for comics, and that is because Comic Sans is meant to be readable at small sizes. That doesn’t mean you have to limit yourself to using Comic Sans. There are many other fonts that could be useful to you!

I recommend you take a look at this website. It has many fonts that can be used in the comic book industry, and most of them would be good for your webcomic, no matter the genre. Some are paid fonts, but there are many fonts that are free to use and can be useful to you.

Here, take a look at some fonts you could use! Compare and decide!

Personally, I like how the Back Issues font and the Kid Kosmic font look!

Generally, it’s recommended you use all-caps in the webcomic, as it’ll be easier to read. Most of the fonts you’ll find for comics often only have capital letters, so most of the time you just will have to type without worrying about activating the all-caps function.

I HAVE THE FONT AND THE IMAGE. NOW WHAT?

Open your sketch or finished image in your software of choice. For the purpose of this post, I’ll suppose you have Photoshop. Most software you can use for these purposes have the same basic functions, so it doesn’t really matter.

Create a new layer above your image. This layer will hold the speech bubble itself – the writing will go in a different layer. Don’t start drawing ellipses or circles yet! Instead, write the text you want to use, and place it where you want it to be, and the size you want it to be. If the text tool didn’t automatically create a layer when you used it, manually make a new layer and place the text there. It’s a good idea to have one layer for each speech bubble, don’t lump all speech bubbles in the same layer.

Once you have the text written, you can make the speech bubbles themselves! The quick option would be to use the ellipsis tool and fill it with white color, but the result will end being rather generic. How about you try to draw the speech balloon by yourself? Use a tablet or, if you don’t have one, use the pen tool. It may take some practice, but this should give your webcomic a more professional look.

You don’t have to make the balloons perfectly round. As long as it’s decently round and doesn’t look like something splattered all over your image, you’ll be okay.

Remember to leave some space around your text, though! Constricting your dialogue into a speech balloon smaller than it is not a good idea.

See?

Also, there’s a technique that could make this easier for you. In Photoshop, there’s a special layer effect called ‘stroke’. If you configure it correctly, everything you draw on that layer will be surrounded by an outline. Make sure to configure it so there’s a black border, of two or three pixels wide, and that it’ll be placed externally. Use a brush with a white color to make the speech bubbles, it’ll immediately be outlined, with no additional effort on your part! If you want to recreate these characteristics in new layers without having to open the window again, all you have to do is duplicate the layer while it’s empty. That’ll give the same characteristics to the copied layers!

Those are the basics of speech balloons.

Dialogue isn’t the only text you may use in a webcomic, though. There’s also expository dialogue, like a monologue, thoughts or notes you’re adding to the page, for one reason or another. What to do, then?

---Between Failures

Usually, these are done in these rectangular boxes. These could be considered similar to speech balloons in many ways, and follow many of the tips and rules speech balloons have. When asked, the author of Between Failures said this:

I've only done this two or three times in the entire run of the comic.  It's not talking because it would make the character look insane if he monologued out loud to himself for a couple of pages.  This is basically just expository narration to set up the premise of the comic in a single page.

How much expository narration is necessary for a webcomic? It’s not like there’s a definite answer to such question or a guideline you need to follow, but it may be worth remembering that webcomics are a visual medium. Sticking to the ‘show, don’t tell’ may be a good choice, since illustrating some of the exposition may help get it across better than text would, with the risk of breaking the pacing a bit. It all depends on the situation, so trust your intuition, ask yourself what you’d like to see!

I UNDERSTAND!

Excellent, I’m glad to hear that.

Oh, right, there’s one thing more you may want to hear about: can you stylize your speech balloons? Give them your own touch? By all means, go ahead! If you feel it’s appropriate for your webcomic and you think it looks good, then experiment all you want. Gauge how the speech balloons look in your webcomic, maybe ask for a few opinions...do everything you can so the end result is something you’re happy with.

It doesn’t have to be anything complicated. Simple measures such as a shadow or a border around your speech balloon can be quite effective to make your webcomic have a distinctive mark to make it stand out from the many, many webcomics available on the Internet.

---Solstoria

I started adding them because I removed the black outline on the bubbles and felt they looked better with a drop shadow and now concrete outline. I also removed the outline of the comic panels of Solstoria in general around that time too! I just did it because I wanted to try something different and I liked how it looked. I know Solstoria isn't highly structured, but I enjoy experimenting with it.

As you can see, speech balloons aren’t something done spontaneously if you want professional results, but the effort will be worth it!

---

I hope everything discussed in this post is of some use to you. Good luck to all your endeavors in the field of webcomics!

[alecsplushpillow]

Colour Porn Tutorial

The sweet @silvernightsky requested a coloring tutorial on this gifset of Jace Herondale and Alec Lightwood in Shadowhunters. There are plenty of ways to achieve this effect, but today we’re trying to keep it simple ✌🏻✨ So today i’m going to show you how to go from this:

to this:

Here’s what you’ll need! ● Photoshop (I’m using Photoshop CS6) ● Basic knowledge on making gifs ● Please like/reblog if this post helped you in any way! ● If anything is unclear, don’t hesitate to ask ● Click ‘read more’ to view this tutorial

Step 1: Choose a scene you want to gif. I recommend using scenes that don’t have a lot of movement and/or already have a pretty solid colour in them, that you can work with later. Make your Screencaps (I recommend KM Player for this!) import them into Photoshop, crop and sharpen your layers like you would normally do. This should leave you with something that looks like the first picture above. Step 2: The next thing we want to do is to apply our base coloring. I usually start off with a ‘Curves’ and a ‘Levels’ Layer, but this part is entirely up to you. This is just my way to get a good base that i can actually work with (;  These are my settings for both of those layers:

Which leaves me with this:

Step 3: Now we’re able to see those already existing colours much better and have achieved a nice contrast between those. So the next thing we are going to work with is the blue background. It’s too dull for my taste, so we’re going to add a ‘Vibrance’ Layer. Those are my settings:

Which leaves me with this:

The blue is more vibrant, but now their faces look way too red. To fix this we’re going to create a new ‘layer mask’ on the Vibrance Layer. To do this you have to select the layer and click on this symbol at the bottom right 

A white square should’ve appeared right next to your layer

Now we want to erase some parts of that layer. Make sure the white square is selected, choose a soft brush (make sure the colour of said brush is set to black!) and start to erase the colour you want to get rid of. I recommend zooming in and, if you want to keep a little bit of the colour, to set the brush to a lower opacity. After erasing some of the parts this what we’ve got:

Step 4: On to the fun part! Now we want to use one of many ‘Selective Color’ Layers. In this first step of getting the purple tone we’re going to enhance the blacks and play around with the cyan section. Again, those are my settings:

Now just duplicate the layer you just created and you should get something like this:

Isn’t that a beautiful, dark purple? YES! But the top of the picture looks very odd and isn’t purple at all, so we need to fix that. You could try and play around with another selective color layer, if you want to, but there’s an easier way to get the background colours to look the same. So the next thing we want to do is to ‘create a new layer.’ To do this, just click on this little symbol at the bottom, right next to the trashcan.

Now we want to grab the ‘Eyedropper Tool’ which is this symbol on the left

And click on the darker parts of the purple background. This way you will be getting the right tone for our next step. The colour i ended up with was: #7d76d6. Next we’ll be changing the setting of our new layer to ‘Color’

Then we’ll grab a soft brush with our selected colour and start to paint the background. Again i’d recommend zooming in a little bit and to use a lower opacity at the parts that are moving slightly - in this case their heads. This is what it looks like once i’m finished:

But it still looks too blue and not vibrant enough for me, so i used another ‘Selective Color’ Layer and played around with the blues this time

Just duplicate this layer, again, and you’ll get something like this:

Step 5: This step is optional, because we’ve already got the colour we wanted to achieve, but this looks a little to dark for my liking. So i added another ‘Curves’ and ‘Vibrance’ Layer with the following settings:

Now you’re free to add your text and save your gif!

And this is it!

With this technique you can also go for other colours or enhance those that are already there ... it’s up to you! 🌈

I hope you enjoyed this tutorial and please like/reblog if it was helpful in any way  💜✨ *sidenote: please be careful when the character/actor/whatever in your gifset is a POC. Playing around with the red/yellowish tones and vibrance will mess up their skin tone in 99% of cases. so please be patient and make sure that you keep their original skin tone, or at least not whitewash them.

[airoasis]

Photoshop Tutorial: How to Create a Custom, Corner Billboard from a Photo.

New Post has been published on https://bitcoinbetanews.com/photoshop-tutorial-how-to-create-a-custom-corner-billboard-from-a-photo/

Photoshop Tutorial: How to Create a Custom, Corner Billboard from a Photo.

Hi. That is Marty from Blue Lightning tv. I’ll show you how you can create your possess nook billboard! If you would like to use this photo by way of photographer, Rob deCaterino, I offered its hyperlink in my video’s description or assignment documents. Earlier than we start, I need to point out that the Vanishing factor feature, which we will be utilizing in this tutorial, is available in models CS2 and later. Open a image that you just’d prefer to place into the billboard. I downloaded this one from Dreamstime.Com. If you want to add text to your picture, open your variety device and opt for a font. I’m using Byrow. In order for you to make use of it, I offered its link, as well. I’ll make its dimension roughly 50 elements, nevertheless, feel free to use some thing measurement you like. I’m going to make its aliasing: Sharp and flush left alignment. Click on the color box to open the color picker.Decide upon a color you love to your textual content. If you wish to copy a color from your photo, just click on that area of the photograph to copy its colour. Then, click good enough. Click on in your snapshot and type out your textual content. If you want to modify the distance between all your characters, spotlight your text and press and preserve Alt or option + the left or right arrow key for your keyboard. To adjust the distance between simply 2 characters, click between these characters and repeat the step. To reposition it, open your transfer software and move it. Make a composite photograph of your obvious photo with the aid of pressing Ctrl + Shift + Alt + E on windows or Cmd + Shift + choice + E on a Mac. Press Ctrl or Cmd + A to decide on your composite photograph and press Ctrl or Cmd + C to repeat it to your clipboard. We will paste it into the billboard a little bit later. Open your billboard photo and click the brand new Layer icon to make a new layer.Go to Filter and Vanishing factor. I did an in-depth tutorial on Vanishing point, so if you would like to observe it, I offered its hyperlink in my video’s description. Zoom into the billboard by clicking the Zoom tool and dragging it over the billboard. Click on the "Create airplane device". Click on the top, left nook of the left side of the billboard and click the highest factor between the left and proper facets. Click the bottom factor between the left and right facets and click on the backside left nook of the left part. The bounding field and grid of a standpoint airplane is by and large blue. If there is a challenge with the location of the nook nodes, the bounding field and grid flip either yellow or purple. If you happen to see either of those colours, move the nook nodes except the bounding field and grid are blue. We will create one other grid that shares the same standpoint of the primary grid through going to the core facet node and Ctrl-dragging or Cmd-dragging it to the threshold of the opposite side. If the newly-created aircraft does not thoroughly line up with the snapshot, drag the corner nodes unless they do.You can notice that the only noticeable grid is the final grid you created, however, the primary aircraft is really there; it’s simply hidden. Now that we’ve got the perspective grid on both sides of the billboard, we will paste our image into it. Press Ctrl or Cmd + V and drag it throughout the grid. Immediately, our photograph retains the equal point of view as our Vanishing point grids. To shrink or enlarge our snapshot inside the grid, drag the within image over except you see a corner. Click the change into software, go to a nook and when you see a diagonal, double-arrow, press and keep Shift as you drag it in or out. Urgent Shift saved your part ratio as you resized it. To reposition it, simply drag it. When you’re completely satisfied with its measurement and function, click adequate. Discover your new billboard picture is on its own layer. Ctrl-click or Cmd-click on its thumbnail to make a decision of its overall form. Go to prefer, alter and Feather. Feather it 1 pixel and click adequate or press Enter or Return.Click the Layer mask icon to make a layer mask of the determination next to the energetic layer. Click the chain-link icon to unlink the layer and the layer mask. Doing this allows us to resize and/or reposition either of them independently of the opposite. Click the thumbnail of the cutout billboard to make it energetic and open your grow to be software with the aid of pressing Ctrl or Cmd + T. On the high, click the chain-hyperlink icon to link the Width and the peak. Now, anything we variety into considered one of them, will likely be repeated in the different. Style in a hundred and one%. Then, press Enter or Return. This enlarged our billboard photo only a bit to make sure that it covers the original billboard below it. To make the billboard mixture more into the heritage, we’ll add just a little grain it.Go to Filter, Noise and Add Noise. I will make the noise quantity three%, but you can regulate the amount to what looks good to you. Make it Gaussian and Monochromatic. Seeing that the billboard picture is undoubtedly sharper than our historical past, we will quite blur the billboard. Go to Filter, Blur and Gaussian Blur. Blur it: zero.Three pixels and click on ok or press Enter or Return. The supply of sunlight in this exact background is originating from the left, so the shadows are being forged to the right. Therefore, i’ll make the billboard’s right facet slightly darker than its left. First, make a duplicate of the top layer and its layer masks. Ctrl-click or Cmd-click on the layer mask to make a resolution of its form. Press "Q" to make the resolution into a speedy mask. Open your Pen software and click on instantly above the highest, core corner to position an anchor point.Release your mouse or pen and click beneath the backside, middle corner. For those who have got to reposition the path, press and maintain Ctrl or Cmd as you drag the anchor point to relocate it. Release your mouse or pen and click on below the scale down, right corner. Proceed unless you click again on the original, prime anchor factor to shut the path. Right-click immediately on the path to open the fly-out record and click on "Make determination". Feather it 1 pixel and click on ok. Press Alt or choice + Delete to fill the external of the choice with the quick mask. To deselect it, press Ctrl or Cmd + D. Press "Q" to transform the fast mask into a selection and invert the decision with the aid of urgent Ctrl or Cmd + Shift + I. Make certain your layer masks is active and press Alt or option + Delete to fill the determination with black. Now, only the right aspect of your billboard will likely be seen by way of the layer mask. Then, deselect it. Click on the highest layer thumbnail to make it energetic and click the Adjustment layer icon. Click "levels". To restrict the adjustment layer to affect simply the one layer beneath it, we ought to clip it to that layer.To do this, either click on the Clipping masks icon or press Ctrl + Alt + G on home windows or Cmd + alternative + G on a Mac. Drag the Output spotlight degree to the left roughly this much to darken it. That is Marty from Blue Lightning tv. Thanks for watching! .