#removing staples for eight hours a day

[paperchamomiles]

removing staples is kind of fun. you just kind of lever them off!!

[eryiss]

[Jet x Freed] Cubicle Capers - Chapter One

Summary: Jet was meant to do more. He was meant to do something with his degree. He was meant to have a purpose. He'd taken a job at Grimoire Pharmaceuticals to work his way up into a lab position, but found himself stuck in a cubicle. Every day the same. At least he had a new boss coming. Freed Justine. He’d be like the rest, though. Boring, outdated and.. hot as hell?

Notes: Hi all. This was requested by @jethro-art, and I’d forgotten how fun these two are to write for. They might be a little OOC for the first chapter, but they get back to themselves pretty soon. Hope you all enjoy it.

Links: Ao3, Chapter Two, Chapter Three, Chapter Four, Chapter Five, Chapter Six, Chapter Seven, Epilogue

Chapter One - The New Boss

Jet

Every morning, Jet would walk to his cramped cubicle to three stacks of paperwork. He'd be disavowed of his hope that the buzzing light overhead would have been fixed, he'd log into his PC knowing full well he'd be watching the spinning circle for the best part of five minutes, and he'd idly wonder what it would be like to just up and leave the office never to return. Every morning was the same, and yet it never stopped being so sad.

This had meant to be a step onto the ladder. Who cared if he was on the bottom rung? He'd just climb up to where he wanted to be. That's what he'd thought five years ago, as a fresh-faced college grad with a degree in chemistry. He'd been wrong.

"Morning Jet," someone said in passing, not bothering to slow down their pace as they walked past the cubicle.

They were gone before he could see they were, so he didn't bother replying. Instead, he flicked on the paper scanner which gave a clunk of protest and got to work removing the staples from the nearest stack of paper. They got caught up in the scanner if he didn't. How was a guy meant to spend eight hours scanning documents, and then copying the exact same information he'd just scanned into a spreadsheet, without a working scanner?

He'd thought he would be working in a lab by now. That's why he'd taken the job. Grimoire Pharmaceuticals gave the hard sell during the interviewers when talking about internal promotions. Jet had been naive back then and believed them.

"You fucker," he hissed, biting his thumb as a little drop of blood spilled from it. He'd nicked himself with the staple remover. Perfect start to an inevitably shitty day, really.

Typically, he wasn't quite so morose. He hated his job on the best of days, but he could mostly console himself that it paid the bills and let him live alone and on that wonderful day when he did quit, it would look amazing on his resume. Hell, on a good day he'd carve out a scrap of individuality and slip in an earphone and listen to a podcast. The hours didn't fly by exactly, but they picked up the pace to a slightly favourable lollop.

Today, though, they were getting a new department manager. An outside hire - internal promotions my ass, Jet had nearly said when he'd heard - who would inevitably be the same golf playing, gin swilling, employee hating douchebag they all were. Another asshole higher on the ladder that Jet could no longer leave.

One day, when the endless towers of documents eased up, Jet would put some time into pinpointing the moment he went from a carefree kid to… whatever he was now.

Sometime in the morning – it could have been early, could have been late, all Jet knew was that the first stack of papers was half done, and he'd accidentally been copied into three emails meant for an accountant called Jeremy – the general manager plodded into the office and called for everyones attention. Jet, just like every one of his colleagues, stood up with lethargy and boredom evident in his movements, and peaked his head over cubicle.

"Everybody," began Mister Stinger – heaven forbid you call him by his first name – called in introduction. He was the general manager for a few departments, and a corporate dickhead in every sense of the word and seemed to be always ready for a screaming match. "This is Freed Justine. He's you're new manager."

An office full of gazes shifted to the man beside him, Jet included. Jet found his brow raising on its own, equally shocked and impressed. The new manager was not what he expected.

Pretty tall and pretty young, Mister Justine looked like he still had life behind his eyes, a rarity in the office. He stood tall and didn't show much on his face, and gave Stinger a small nod of appreciation for the introduction. He stepped forward, a confident step as he looked over his employees. His skin was pale, his features sharp but not exactly delicate, and his hair, long and green, tied up high. He was handsome, but that wouldn't last. The office had a habit of draining the life from things.

"Thank you, Mister Stinger," he spoke, and his voice had a honey-like quality behind the authority. That would go too; Jet idly wondered how long until he'd hear a tired rasp wearing away that firmness of tone. "I've heard good things about this department. Hard workers and dedicated employees. Looking over your numbers, you tend to hit targets fairly consistently, so you're doing something right. I don't intend to fix what isn't broken, so I assure you I won't be barrelling in with new ideas. Should everything go as I intended, you'll barely notice the change at all. Except, of course I'll be aiming to get that rate of meeting targets from fairly consistent to resolutely consistent. That's for another time, though. I wouldn't want to take up anymore of your morning break."

Jet wasn't shocked. Neither that they'd waited until the morning break to make the announcement rather than on company time, nor that this new guy was as much a corporate mouthpiece as the rest of them. The fancy suit and the glitzy watch gave that away.

Still, at least he was good looking. He wasn't a middle-aged slob like most of the managers they'd had, and as he turned to address the rest of the room, Jet let his eyes flicker down his new boss's form. Mister Justine wore his suit well. It hugged his thighs and drew subtle focus to his firm looking ass. A bit of eye candy would be a welcome distraction, for as long as it lasted. Jet had to wonder what exactly would make Mister Justine unattractive; would the life be drained out of him, would he reveal himself to be a total ass like the rest of management, or would he simply be promoted before Jet could truly appreciate the man's appeal?

"While I have an open-door policy, I expect you all to take initiative and only interrupt my work as a last resort," Mister Justine continued, and Jet might have rolled his eyes if Freed hadn't turned to face his side of the room again. "Respect for one another's time is tantamount to a good working environment, so if you give me respect, I'll do the same to you."

Jet could guarantee that at four thirty that afternoon he'd get another stack of invoices to scan, and he'd be working at least an hour late to get them all scanned. Nobody had respected his time in five years.

"Quite right," Mister Stinger agreed, then addressed the room at large again. "Chain of command is still the same. Want to speak to me, do it through your manager. Anything else you want to say to them?" Freed gave a small shake of his head. "Back to work then."

Mister Stinger walked to the hallway, Mister Justine walked to his new office, and Jet collapsed back in his squeaky chair. Break time was over. He'd have to wait until lunch to get himself another mug of coffee. Great.

New day. New manager. Same shit.

———

Freed

Maybe it would be unfair to say that the office seemed lifeless, but that was the first conclusion that Freed had made. He didn't really like much of it, so far. Too many cubicles, too many computers that looked like they should have been trashed during the Y2K panic, and far too many people who looked like they'd rather repeatedly slam their heads against the wall than work another day in the office. If this was the reality of corporate America, Freed wasn't a fan.

Still, needs must. When one returns to their hometown, they must get a job. Grimoire Pharmaceuticals paid well, they gave reasonable benefits to management and above, and as pharmaceutical companies went, they weren't totally immoral, which was a win in Freed's view. He'd just have to get used to this world; he'd see the good aspects of office working soon enough, no doubt.

A nagging voice told him he'd made a mistake.

He'd seen the world in his past job. Being a translator for higher with thirteen languages under his belt had given him opportunities seldom seen for most people. He'd visited country after country, worked with politicians, dignitaries and the uber-elite. But he'd also been nomadic, and it was time to settle. The office might seem a little bleak, but it beat the hell out of the liminal mind fuck of staying at yet another chain hotel night after night, living from a suitcase with no home to call his own. Endless corridors of the same carpets and doors haunted him, and an office was a welcome relief.

No, it was time to put down some roots. If working a nine to five was how he got those roots down, then so be it. He could live a boring life, everyone else seemed to be doing fine with that. Yes, they looked dead behind the eyes, but maybe that was just something Freed needed to get used to too.

Looking over the past year's performance reviews didn't lend him much confidence. There was a growing theme where dedication to the rules were prioritised over any advancement. The more subservient – perhaps there was a better word, but Freed didn't find one – an employee was, the better their review. Any employee who did as they were told was more likely to get their meagre raise when the opportunity came. Those who questioned things were seen as troublemakers.

The performance review of a young man named Jet made that clear. A bit too loud. A bit too boisterous. Happy to voice his opinion. A possible union starter. A troublemaker.

Warning after warning had been hidden in the language of corporate speak; clearly this Jet was the dissenter of the group. Good to know. Freed pushed away from his desk, left the little private office latched onto the far side of the floor, and walked through row after row of cubicle, looking for the ginger hair that had snagged his gaze earlier in the day.

He saw Jet before Jet saw him, which gave him a chance to see how he worked. He checked a document for staples, scanned it when he was sure there weren't any, moved the scanned document to the other side of his desk, and typed on his keyboard. Simple, effective, boring as all hell.

Freed approached, a small, antagonising smile on his face. Jet was a troublemaker? Well, so was Freed.

"Why are you cluttering your desk like this?" Freed said in lieu of greeting. It was rude, of course, but Freed felt you saw a man's true self if his feathers were ruffled a bit. "Surely it'd be better to take the scanned documents to the recycling after you don't need them anymore."

Jet looked at him like he was a moron. That was fair; Freed's suggestion had been purposefully moronic.

"That'd be kinda…" Jet was clearly trying to think of a diplomatic word. Freed had to wonder what words he was dismissing. "-slow. Getting up and going all the way over to the trash cans. I can be fast, y'know, but not that fast. Don't wanna get behind."

Freed let the point lay in the air. Jet didn't offer an alternative point of deference. Good. "Up to you."

He walked away without further words, and as he turned a corner in the maze of cubicles, he could see the look of open bafflement and irritation on Jet's face as he tracked Freed's movements. Freed didn't look over his shoulder as he returned to his office, somehow knowing that Jet wouldn't be following Freed's frankly ridiculous advice in an attempt to suck up to the new boss. He still had some pushback in him, and that was something Freed was glad about.

Sure enough, when Freed flicked on the monitor with the CCTV feed on it, it didn't take him long to find Jet's desk just as cluttered as before. More-so, actually. The stack of scanned documents which had been pretty neat before were now splayed out and a little precarious, hanging over the edge. Had he messed them up out of spite?

It wasn't good to have a favourite employee, especially after having essentially no contact with him or anyone else in the office, but Freed felt a tiny glimmer of happiness. He liked spiteful people, if they were principled with it. Maybe Jet would have that.

He switched off the CCTV monitor – it felt terribly invasive to be watching his employees from cameras he wasn't sure they even knew about – and went back to the performance reviews, hoping to weed out more rebels in the office. None came, and by day's end Freed could only conclude that this office had leeched the life out of all of its employees to the point of banality.

Except, of course, for Jet.

[kitchenhermit]

New York-Style Bagels

The New York-style bagel is truly iconic. When I lived in NYC I couldn’t get through a week without a few of these! When I moved out of the city, bagels were among the things I missed the most. Luckily, they are super simple to make at home.

Bagels were brought to NYC by Ashkenazi Jewish immigrants from Poland in the 1800s. Overtime, they became a widespread local staple, and they’re still a popular mainstay to this day. New York-style bagels are distinctive because they are boiled before baking. This is how the famous chewy texture is achieved.

I’ve included a recipe for “everything seasoning,” but these bagels are also great plain. As far as fillings, these bagels are perfect with just cream cheese and chives or with the addition of smoked salmon, capers, pickled onions, and dill. 

Ingredients:

Bagel dough:

 297 grams/320ml water 90F/32C

10 grams dry yeast 

23 grams white granulated sugar 

500 grams bread flour / Manitoba

6 grams/1 1/2 tsp salt 

1tbsp baking soda/malt syrup (optional)

Egg wash:

1 egg

1tsp cream/milk

Everything seasoning:

Makes 3/4 of a cup - so there’s some leftover!

2 Tbsp + 2 tsp white toasted sesame seeds

2tbsp black toasted sesame seeds

4 tsp Maldon sea salt flakes

2 tsp poppy seeds

2 tbsp dried minced onion

2 tbsp dried minced garlic 

Method

Whisk in the yeast and sugar to the warm water, and let it rest for about 10 minutes or until frothy. 

In a large bowl, whisk bread flour and salt together. Add in the yeast mixture and stir until the dough is shaggy. Once everything is well-combined, turn it out onto a lightly floured work surface and knead for about 10 minutes or until the dough is smooth and pliable. You can also do this in a mixer with the dough hook. 

Put the dough into a lightly-oiled bowl. Cover with a damp towel and place in a warm place away from drafts (I use the oven with the light turned on), Let it ferment for about an hour or until doubled in size. 

Then, punch down the dough to deflate it and turn it out onto your bench. 

Before you move on to the next step, put on a pot of water to boil and pre-heat your oven to 218C/425F. You can add baking soda or malt syrup to your water, but this is optional. 

With a bench scraper, split the dough into eight pieces that are roughly the same size. I cut it in half, then quarters, then eighths. Pinch each piece to create a seam and then place it on an un-floured work surface (seam side down) and move your hand in a circular motion to tighten it into a ball. 

 Place the dough balls onto a baking sheet lined with baking paper or a silicone mat. Cover with a damp towel and let them rest for 10 minutes. 

When your water is boiling, pick up a ball with a floured hand and poke a finger straight through the middle. With two fingers in the hole, slowly turn the bagel to widen it. Then carefully drop the bagel into the water and boil for 1 minute on each side. Drain well and place on a baking sheet lined with baking paper. 

When all the bagels have been boiled, whisk the egg and the cream together and brush the bagels with the egg wash, covering the surface well. 

Sprinkle a generous amount of everything seasoning on top of the bagels. Bake in the oven for 15-20 minutes or until the bagels are golden. Remove from the oven and let them cool completely on a wire rack. Enjoy with your favourite toppings!

Did you like the recipe? Let me know on Instagram! 

[tameblog]

Allium ampeloprasum var. porrum The leek looks like a steroid-fueled green onion. It’s considerably fatter than a scallion, at one to three inches wide, and about twice as tall. But it totally wears the same outfit, albeit in a bigger size. It is in fact related to onions, offering a mild, sweet, onion-like flavor that is used to season any number of dishes – more on that later in this article. Leeks are a cool-weather crop, with an ideal growing-temperature range of 55 to 75°F. Like collard greens, they appreciate a frost or two for better flavor development. We link to vendors to help you find relevant products. If you buy from one of our links, we may earn a commission. Most varieties are hardy to Zones 7 or 8, though some types can tolerate cooler weather. We’ll offer some specifics shortly. The plant is a biennial, though damage and dieback due to a hard freeze will make it an annual. The topmost, leafy green part of the plant is called the “flag,” and the white part is usually called the “stem” or “stalk,” though botanically speaking these are misnomers. The white part of the plant is technically a tight bundle of leaf sheaths. Ready to dive in to the fascinating world of the leek? Here’s what’s to come in this article: It’s time to get growing! Leeks are native to the eastern Mediterranean and the Middle East. They were cultivated in Egypt more than 4,000 years ago, and enjoyed by the workers who built the pyramids. As well as being a staple in the diet of ordinary people, apparently the emperor Nero was fond of a leek or two, eating them almost daily to strengthen his voice. Quick Look Common name(s): Leek Plant type: Biennial vegetable Hardiness (USDA Zone): 5-10 Native to: Mediterranean Season: Spring Exposure: Full sun Soil type: Rich and well draining Soil pH: 6.0-7, slightly acidic to neutral Time to maturity: 80-150 days, depends on variety Spacing: 6 inches Planting depth: Seeds -1/8 inch, seedlings – half the depth Mature size: 6-12 inches wide x 2-3 feet high Water Needs: 1 inch per week Taxonomy Order: Apiales Family: Amaryllidaceae Genus: Allium Species: A. ampeloprasum var. porrum Cultivars: various The Greek physician Hippocrates is thought to have prescribed this vegetable as a cure for nose bleeds. Leeks make an appearance in what is regarded as the world’s first cookbook, “Apicius de re Coquinaria,” (“On the Subject of Cooking”) compiled in fourth- to fifth-century Rome. The recipe collection includes several for leeks, most of which showcase it not as a seasoning for other foods, but as a vegetable to be enjoyed on its own. It is thought that the vegetable spread across Europe and to the British Isles by the marauding Romans. European settlers brought the vegetable to North America. For reasons that are not completely understood, the vegetable is today the national emblem of Wales and is worn proudly on St. David’s Day – a holiday to honor the country’s patron saint. Propagation You can grow leeks from seed or, like the pineapple, propagate it from kitchen scraps. From Seed Start seeds indoors in pots or seed trays. Scatter seeds on top of a rich potting mix, and then cover them with a scant dusting of soil. You can expect germination within five to 12 days. Or you can direct sow outdoors, as long as air temperatures are below 77 and above 55°F. The optimal temperature for germination is between 70 and 77°F. Seedlings will be ready to transplant when they’re six to eight inches tall. Harden them off by moving them outdoors for a few hours each day, gradually lengthening the time spent outside each day for about a week. When you’re ready to transplant, remove seedlings from the soil and gently separate them. Create narrow holes in your prepared bed that are about half as deep as the seedlings, from the root to the top of the stem. The holes should be narrow, not more than an inch in diameter, and can be made by poking a dowel or ‘dibber��� into the ground – as opposed to digging a hole with a garden spade. They should be spaced 6 inches apart in rows that are one foot apart. Set the seedlings into the holes; some of the green part may be below the soil surface, and that’s okay for this plant. Fill the holes with water, but do not backfill the holes with soil. The soil will gradually crumble in, but it will be loose, allowing the leeks to swell to a plump diameter as they grow. From Scraps You can also start a new plant from the rooted bit at the end of a leek stalk. Simply cut off and use the top, leaving at least an inch of stalk at the end, with the roots intact. Place this bit in a cup, add water to cover about half the stalk, put it in a sunny window, and soon you will have more greens shooting up. You can also use toothpicks to suspend the cutting in water, as you would with an avocado pit. Once the top part has started to show new growth of two to three inches, you can plant it out in the garden. Alternatively, keep it in the water to continue growing and harvest straight from your windowsill! How to Grow Leeks prefer rich, well-draining soil with a pH between 6.0 and 7.0. They need a minimum of eight hours of bright sunlight daily. Many varieties require a long growing period of 120 to 150 days, but newer cultivars may require as few as 90 days to mature. With a shallow root system, leeks need about an inch of water per week, so track your local precipitation rates and irrigate if it doesn’t rain. Mulch the growing area well. The white part of the leek is the most desirable for cooking and eating, being tender and less fibrous than the green. Therefore, gardeners often hill the dirt around the shaft to prevent that part of the plant from making chlorophyll and turning green. Alternatively, you can fashion a sheath out of cardboard or other porous material to wrap around the stalk as it grows. It needs to be opaque but still allow for some airflow, otherwise the leek may start to rot. About midway through the growing season, side dress the growing area about six inches away from the plants with a balanced fertilizer such as a 10-10-10 NPK mix at a rate of one cup for 10 feet of row. Leeks are highly tolerant of cold. Depending on the variety, they can take temperatures down to 5°F or so, and a frost or two is said to improve their flavor. But you definitely want to pull them before the ground freezes. If you live in a place where you can overwinter leeks, consider that they will probably bolt in spring if they’ve been exposed to frosts and then the weather warms up. If it’s their second year of life, they’ll bolt regardless, being biennial. So pull them before the weather gets too warm, or let a few bolt for seed saving purposes. The round purple, lavender, or pink flowers are quite attractive, and after they go to seed, you can harvest and save the seeds for planting next year. To do this, pluck the pods when they start to crack open. Place them in paper bags to dry, then shake the bags to separate the seeds from the chaff. If you store the seeds in a cool, dry place, they should remain viable for up to three years. You can eat the leeks after they bolt, but they’re not very good. Cultivars to Select As referenced throughout this article, a number of leek cultivars are available, all with various enticing qualities. American Flag This heirloom variety is hardy and will overwinter in mild climates. ‘American Flag’ grows to 20 inches tall and 1.5-2 inches thick. It has thick, blue-green leaves. ‘American Flag’ ‘American Flag’ matures in 130 days. Find seeds in a variety of quantities from Eden Brothers. Early Giant Good for planting in early spring, ‘Early Giant’ has a shorter maturation period of 98 days. This heirloom variety is known for its consistent size and great flavor. ‘Early Giant’ Eden Brothers sells a number of quantities of seeds of this variety. Autumn Giant Leek This tall heirloom grows as tall as 30 inches, with stalks that can reach three inches wide at maturity. ‘Autumn Giant’ is ready to harvest in 135 to 150 days. ‘Autumn Giant’ Get packages of about 50 seeds from Frozen Seed Capsules via Amazon. Lancelot This adaptable hybrid grows a 12- to 14-inch white shafts with dark blue-green flags. ‘Lancelot’ grows well in many zones, and matures in 75 days. ‘Lancelot’ Packages of 72 seedlings of this cultivar are available from Burpee. Pests and Disease Leeks, unfortunately, are impacted by a few insects and several types of fungi. Insects Keep an eye out for these insect pests: Leafminers (Lyriomyza spp.) These tiny, 1/8-inch flies are generally yellow, dark gray, or black, or a combination thereof. They leave thin, white, winding trails on leaves. You might also see white blotches on leaves. The fly lays its eggs in the leaf, and the larvae feed on the leaf’s interior. Use neem oil to get rid of these pests. Find more tips on leafminer control here. Onion Maggots (Delia antiqua) The tiny white larvae of this quarter-inch gray fly emerge from eggs laid on leek leaves or in the soil, and then bore into the plant. They grow to about half an inch long, using their feeding hooks to tear up the plant. This is damaging in and of itself, and the damaged plants are also more susceptible to other pathogens, such as bacteria. Leaves of affected plants turn yellow and the stalk rots. Prevention – such as through crop rotation – is the best way to prevent an infestation. One a plant is impacted, it must be dug up and destroyed. Thrips (Thrips tabaci) Yellow or black dots on plants may be a symptom of thrips. Another sign is leaves that turn silver or gray, or leaves that twist and die. Thrips are small winged insects that damage plants by sucking fluids out. Control them with insecticidal soap, neem oil, or spinosa, a biological pesticide. Read more about thrip identification and control here. Disease Leeks may be plagued by a number of types of fungi, all of which can be treated with a commercial fungicide. Good airflow and proper planting techniques and watering practices, as well as diligently ridding the beds of errant weeds, can help to protect your plants. Here are the primary culprits: Rust (Phragmidium spp.) Rust is a fungal disease that presents as orange pustules on leaves. Botrytis Leaf Blight (Botrytis squamosa) This fungus is characterized by small white lesions ringed in light green. Damping Off (Fusarium spp.) Seedlings that grow slowly and then wilt and die may be a sign of damping off. Root tips of affected plants may be tan, yellow, black, or pink. Learn more about this disease here. Downy Mildew (Peronospora parasitica) Purplish-gray fuzzy growth on leaf surfaces may be a sign of downy mildew. You may see pale spots on leaves, followed by widespread leaf yellowing and collapsed leaf tips. Pink Root (Phoma terrestris) Stunted plants with undersized shafts may be a sign of pink root, which also causes roots to turn light pink and then darken to purple. The roots may be transparent and water-soaked. Purple Blotch (Alternaria porri) Purple blotch presents on the flag or stalk with small, water-soaked lesions with white centers. These blotches enlarge and become brown or purple, with yellow edges. Foliage may die. White Rot (Sclerotinia cepivorum) White rot can stunt growth, causing yellowing of leaves, and eventual death of all foliage. You may see a fluffy white growth at the base of the plant. Harvesting Most leek varieties are fully developed when the stems grow to be a minimum of one inch in width. Some smaller varieties, however, mature at one-half to three-fourths of an inch in diameter. Check your seed packets so you know what to look for. A good quality leek should have a firm, white shaft that’s more than three inches long. Leeks can be harvested whenever they’ve reached their desired size. Leek tops do not die back as the plant matures, unlike with onions and shallots, so you can’t rely on that marker. Simply twist and – gently – pull leeks to harvest them. Or you can dig around them if the soil is dry, and lift them up. You can trim flags to a more manageable length for storage, if you like. See our guide to how to harvest leeks for seven expert tips. Preserving Store leeks in an airtight plastic bag in the crisper drawer of the refrigerator; they’ll stay fresh for about a week. In really cold areas, there’s a longer-term storage option: After harvest, leave the roots attached, but cut the flag back to about an inch. Place stems root-end down in a box and fill it with sand, vermiculite, or sawdust. Keep the packing moist, but not waterlogged, and store in a cool place, where they will keep for about eight weeks. You can freeze these veggies too. Wash them thoroughly (more on this shortly), slice them, and blanch for one minute in boiling water. Blanching helps vegetables to retain their color and nutrients, and it destroys enzymes that can cause spoilage. Drain the blanched slices, dry them, and place them in zip-top plastic freezer bags for storage. They should keep for three to four months. It’s Smelling a Bit Strong in Here Most gardeners who’ve grown leeks consider them to be fairly easy to grow. As long as you give them nutritious soil, some fertilizer, and sufficient water, they should do well in your garden. You’ll also want to keep an eye out for pests and fungi. If you’re not terribly familiar with leeks as an ingredient in your cooking, try expanding your kitchen repertoire with this delicious allium. What better way to do that is there than by growing your own? Are you an experienced leek grower? Please share your wisdom in the comments below. While we’re exploring the alliums, why not check out a few onion articles? Give these a read next: Photos by Fanny Slater and Raquel Smith © Ask the Experts, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. See our TOS for more details. Originally published December 3rd, 2019. Last updated January 19th, 2025. Product photos via Burpee, Eden Brothers, Seeds4planting, and Amazon. Uncredited photos: Shutterstock. Additional writing and editing by Clare Groom and Allison Sidhu. !function(f,b,e,v,n,t,s) if(f.fbq)return;n=f.fbq=function()n.callMethod? n.callMethod.apply(n,arguments):n.queue.push(arguments); if(!f._fbq)f._fbq=n;n.push=n;n.loaded=!0;n.version='2.0'; n.queue=[];t=b.createElement(e);t.async=!0; t.src=v;s=b.getElementsByTagName(e)[0]; s.parentNode.insertBefore(t,s)(window, document,'script', ' fbq('init', '176410929431717'); fbq('track', 'PageView'); Source link

[ramestoryworld]

Allium ampeloprasum var. porrum The leek looks like a steroid-fueled green onion. It’s considerably fatter than a scallion, at one to three inches wide, and about twice as tall. But it totally wears the same outfit, albeit in a bigger size. It is in fact related to onions, offering a mild, sweet, onion-like flavor that is used to season any number of dishes – more on that later in this article. Leeks are a cool-weather crop, with an ideal growing-temperature range of 55 to 75°F. Like collard greens, they appreciate a frost or two for better flavor development. We link to vendors to help you find relevant products. If you buy from one of our links, we may earn a commission. Most varieties are hardy to Zones 7 or 8, though some types can tolerate cooler weather. We’ll offer some specifics shortly. The plant is a biennial, though damage and dieback due to a hard freeze will make it an annual. The topmost, leafy green part of the plant is called the “flag,” and the white part is usually called the “stem” or “stalk,” though botanically speaking these are misnomers. The white part of the plant is technically a tight bundle of leaf sheaths. Ready to dive in to the fascinating world of the leek? Here’s what’s to come in this article: It’s time to get growing! Leeks are native to the eastern Mediterranean and the Middle East. They were cultivated in Egypt more than 4,000 years ago, and enjoyed by the workers who built the pyramids. As well as being a staple in the diet of ordinary people, apparently the emperor Nero was fond of a leek or two, eating them almost daily to strengthen his voice. Quick Look Common name(s): Leek Plant type: Biennial vegetable Hardiness (USDA Zone): 5-10 Native to: Mediterranean Season: Spring Exposure: Full sun Soil type: Rich and well draining Soil pH: 6.0-7, slightly acidic to neutral Time to maturity: 80-150 days, depends on variety Spacing: 6 inches Planting depth: Seeds -1/8 inch, seedlings – half the depth Mature size: 6-12 inches wide x 2-3 feet high Water Needs: 1 inch per week Taxonomy Order: Apiales Family: Amaryllidaceae Genus: Allium Species: A. ampeloprasum var. porrum Cultivars: various The Greek physician Hippocrates is thought to have prescribed this vegetable as a cure for nose bleeds. Leeks make an appearance in what is regarded as the world’s first cookbook, “Apicius de re Coquinaria,” (“On the Subject of Cooking”) compiled in fourth- to fifth-century Rome. The recipe collection includes several for leeks, most of which showcase it not as a seasoning for other foods, but as a vegetable to be enjoyed on its own. It is thought that the vegetable spread across Europe and to the British Isles by the marauding Romans. European settlers brought the vegetable to North America. For reasons that are not completely understood, the vegetable is today the national emblem of Wales and is worn proudly on St. David’s Day – a holiday to honor the country’s patron saint. Propagation You can grow leeks from seed or, like the pineapple, propagate it from kitchen scraps. From Seed Start seeds indoors in pots or seed trays. Scatter seeds on top of a rich potting mix, and then cover them with a scant dusting of soil. You can expect germination within five to 12 days. Or you can direct sow outdoors, as long as air temperatures are below 77 and above 55°F. The optimal temperature for germination is between 70 and 77°F. Seedlings will be ready to transplant when they’re six to eight inches tall. Harden them off by moving them outdoors for a few hours each day, gradually lengthening the time spent outside each day for about a week. When you’re ready to transplant, remove seedlings from the soil and gently separate them. Create narrow holes in your prepared bed that are about half as deep as the seedlings, from the root to the top of the stem. The holes should be narrow, not more than an inch in diameter, and can be made by poking a dowel or ‘dibber’ into the ground – as opposed to digging a hole with a garden spade. They should be spaced 6 inches apart in rows that are one foot apart. Set the seedlings into the holes; some of the green part may be below the soil surface, and that’s okay for this plant. Fill the holes with water, but do not backfill the holes with soil. The soil will gradually crumble in, but it will be loose, allowing the leeks to swell to a plump diameter as they grow. From Scraps You can also start a new plant from the rooted bit at the end of a leek stalk. Simply cut off and use the top, leaving at least an inch of stalk at the end, with the roots intact. Place this bit in a cup, add water to cover about half the stalk, put it in a sunny window, and soon you will have more greens shooting up. You can also use toothpicks to suspend the cutting in water, as you would with an avocado pit. Once the top part has started to show new growth of two to three inches, you can plant it out in the garden. Alternatively, keep it in the water to continue growing and harvest straight from your windowsill! How to Grow Leeks prefer rich, well-draining soil with a pH between 6.0 and 7.0. They need a minimum of eight hours of bright sunlight daily. Many varieties require a long growing period of 120 to 150 days, but newer cultivars may require as few as 90 days to mature. With a shallow root system, leeks need about an inch of water per week, so track your local precipitation rates and irrigate if it doesn’t rain. Mulch the growing area well. The white part of the leek is the most desirable for cooking and eating, being tender and less fibrous than the green. Therefore, gardeners often hill the dirt around the shaft to prevent that part of the plant from making chlorophyll and turning green. Alternatively, you can fashion a sheath out of cardboard or other porous material to wrap around the stalk as it grows. It needs to be opaque but still allow for some airflow, otherwise the leek may start to rot. About midway through the growing season, side dress the growing area about six inches away from the plants with a balanced fertilizer such as a 10-10-10 NPK mix at a rate of one cup for 10 feet of row. Leeks are highly tolerant of cold. Depending on the variety, they can take temperatures down to 5°F or so, and a frost or two is said to improve their flavor. But you definitely want to pull them before the ground freezes. If you live in a place where you can overwinter leeks, consider that they will probably bolt in spring if they’ve been exposed to frosts and then the weather warms up. If it’s their second year of life, they’ll bolt regardless, being biennial. So pull them before the weather gets too warm, or let a few bolt for seed saving purposes. The round purple, lavender, or pink flowers are quite attractive, and after they go to seed, you can harvest and save the seeds for planting next year. To do this, pluck the pods when they start to crack open. Place them in paper bags to dry, then shake the bags to separate the seeds from the chaff. If you store the seeds in a cool, dry place, they should remain viable for up to three years. You can eat the leeks after they bolt, but they’re not very good. Cultivars to Select As referenced throughout this article, a number of leek cultivars are available, all with various enticing qualities. American Flag This heirloom variety is hardy and will overwinter in mild climates. ‘American Flag’ grows to 20 inches tall and 1.5-2 inches thick. It has thick, blue-green leaves. ‘American Flag’ ‘American Flag’ matures in 130 days. Find seeds in a variety of quantities from Eden Brothers. Early Giant Good for planting in early spring, ‘Early Giant’ has a shorter maturation period of 98 days. This heirloom variety is known for its consistent size and great flavor. ‘Early Giant’ Eden Brothers sells a number of quantities of seeds of this variety. Autumn Giant Leek This tall heirloom grows as tall as 30 inches, with stalks that can reach three inches wide at maturity. ‘Autumn Giant’ is ready to harvest in 135 to 150 days. ‘Autumn Giant’ Get packages of about 50 seeds from Frozen Seed Capsules via Amazon. Lancelot This adaptable hybrid grows a 12- to 14-inch white shafts with dark blue-green flags. ‘Lancelot’ grows well in many zones, and matures in 75 days. ‘Lancelot’ Packages of 72 seedlings of this cultivar are available from Burpee. Pests and Disease Leeks, unfortunately, are impacted by a few insects and several types of fungi. Insects Keep an eye out for these insect pests: Leafminers (Lyriomyza spp.) These tiny, 1/8-inch flies are generally yellow, dark gray, or black, or a combination thereof. They leave thin, white, winding trails on leaves. You might also see white blotches on leaves. The fly lays its eggs in the leaf, and the larvae feed on the leaf’s interior. Use neem oil to get rid of these pests. Find more tips on leafminer control here. Onion Maggots (Delia antiqua) The tiny white larvae of this quarter-inch gray fly emerge from eggs laid on leek leaves or in the soil, and then bore into the plant. They grow to about half an inch long, using their feeding hooks to tear up the plant. This is damaging in and of itself, and the damaged plants are also more susceptible to other pathogens, such as bacteria. Leaves of affected plants turn yellow and the stalk rots. Prevention – such as through crop rotation – is the best way to prevent an infestation. One a plant is impacted, it must be dug up and destroyed. Thrips (Thrips tabaci) Yellow or black dots on plants may be a symptom of thrips. Another sign is leaves that turn silver or gray, or leaves that twist and die. Thrips are small winged insects that damage plants by sucking fluids out. Control them with insecticidal soap, neem oil, or spinosa, a biological pesticide. Read more about thrip identification and control here. Disease Leeks may be plagued by a number of types of fungi, all of which can be treated with a commercial fungicide. Good airflow and proper planting techniques and watering practices, as well as diligently ridding the beds of errant weeds, can help to protect your plants. Here are the primary culprits: Rust (Phragmidium spp.) Rust is a fungal disease that presents as orange pustules on leaves. Botrytis Leaf Blight (Botrytis squamosa) This fungus is characterized by small white lesions ringed in light green. Damping Off (Fusarium spp.) Seedlings that grow slowly and then wilt and die may be a sign of damping off. Root tips of affected plants may be tan, yellow, black, or pink. Learn more about this disease here. Downy Mildew (Peronospora parasitica) Purplish-gray fuzzy growth on leaf surfaces may be a sign of downy mildew. You may see pale spots on leaves, followed by widespread leaf yellowing and collapsed leaf tips. Pink Root (Phoma terrestris) Stunted plants with undersized shafts may be a sign of pink root, which also causes roots to turn light pink and then darken to purple. The roots may be transparent and water-soaked. Purple Blotch (Alternaria porri) Purple blotch presents on the flag or stalk with small, water-soaked lesions with white centers. These blotches enlarge and become brown or purple, with yellow edges. Foliage may die. White Rot (Sclerotinia cepivorum) White rot can stunt growth, causing yellowing of leaves, and eventual death of all foliage. You may see a fluffy white growth at the base of the plant. Harvesting Most leek varieties are fully developed when the stems grow to be a minimum of one inch in width. Some smaller varieties, however, mature at one-half to three-fourths of an inch in diameter. Check your seed packets so you know what to look for. A good quality leek should have a firm, white shaft that’s more than three inches long. Leeks can be harvested whenever they’ve reached their desired size. Leek tops do not die back as the plant matures, unlike with onions and shallots, so you can’t rely on that marker. Simply twist and – gently – pull leeks to harvest them. Or you can dig around them if the soil is dry, and lift them up. You can trim flags to a more manageable length for storage, if you like. See our guide to how to harvest leeks for seven expert tips. Preserving Store leeks in an airtight plastic bag in the crisper drawer of the refrigerator; they’ll stay fresh for about a week. In really cold areas, there’s a longer-term storage option: After harvest, leave the roots attached, but cut the flag back to about an inch. Place stems root-end down in a box and fill it with sand, vermiculite, or sawdust. Keep the packing moist, but not waterlogged, and store in a cool place, where they will keep for about eight weeks. You can freeze these veggies too. Wash them thoroughly (more on this shortly), slice them, and blanch for one minute in boiling water. Blanching helps vegetables to retain their color and nutrients, and it destroys enzymes that can cause spoilage. Drain the blanched slices, dry them, and place them in zip-top plastic freezer bags for storage. They should keep for three to four months. It’s Smelling a Bit Strong in Here Most gardeners who’ve grown leeks consider them to be fairly easy to grow. As long as you give them nutritious soil, some fertilizer, and sufficient water, they should do well in your garden. You’ll also want to keep an eye out for pests and fungi. If you’re not terribly familiar with leeks as an ingredient in your cooking, try expanding your kitchen repertoire with this delicious allium. What better way to do that is there than by growing your own? Are you an experienced leek grower? Please share your wisdom in the comments below. While we’re exploring the alliums, why not check out a few onion articles? Give these a read next: Photos by Fanny Slater and Raquel Smith © Ask the Experts, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. See our TOS for more details. Originally published December 3rd, 2019. Last updated January 19th, 2025. Product photos via Burpee, Eden Brothers, Seeds4planting, and Amazon. Uncredited photos: Shutterstock. Additional writing and editing by Clare Groom and Allison Sidhu. !function(f,b,e,v,n,t,s) if(f.fbq)return;n=f.fbq=function()n.callMethod? n.callMethod.apply(n,arguments):n.queue.push(arguments); if(!f._fbq)f._fbq=n;n.push=n;n.loaded=!0;n.version='2.0'; n.queue=[];t=b.createElement(e);t.async=!0; t.src=v;s=b.getElementsByTagName(e)[0]; s.parentNode.insertBefore(t,s)(window, document,'script', ' fbq('init', '176410929431717'); fbq('track', 'PageView'); Source link

[alexha2210]

Allium ampeloprasum var. porrum The leek looks like a steroid-fueled green onion. It’s considerably fatter than a scallion, at one to three inches wide, and about twice as tall. But it totally wears the same outfit, albeit in a bigger size. It is in fact related to onions, offering a mild, sweet, onion-like flavor that is used to season any number of dishes – more on that later in this article. Leeks are a cool-weather crop, with an ideal growing-temperature range of 55 to 75°F. Like collard greens, they appreciate a frost or two for better flavor development. We link to vendors to help you find relevant products. If you buy from one of our links, we may earn a commission. Most varieties are hardy to Zones 7 or 8, though some types can tolerate cooler weather. We’ll offer some specifics shortly. The plant is a biennial, though damage and dieback due to a hard freeze will make it an annual. The topmost, leafy green part of the plant is called the “flag,” and the white part is usually called the “stem” or “stalk,” though botanically speaking these are misnomers. The white part of the plant is technically a tight bundle of leaf sheaths. Ready to dive in to the fascinating world of the leek? Here’s what’s to come in this article: It’s time to get growing! Leeks are native to the eastern Mediterranean and the Middle East. They were cultivated in Egypt more than 4,000 years ago, and enjoyed by the workers who built the pyramids. As well as being a staple in the diet of ordinary people, apparently the emperor Nero was fond of a leek or two, eating them almost daily to strengthen his voice. Quick Look Common name(s): Leek Plant type: Biennial vegetable Hardiness (USDA Zone): 5-10 Native to: Mediterranean Season: Spring Exposure: Full sun Soil type: Rich and well draining Soil pH: 6.0-7, slightly acidic to neutral Time to maturity: 80-150 days, depends on variety Spacing: 6 inches Planting depth: Seeds -1/8 inch, seedlings – half the depth Mature size: 6-12 inches wide x 2-3 feet high Water Needs: 1 inch per week Taxonomy Order: Apiales Family: Amaryllidaceae Genus: Allium Species: A. ampeloprasum var. porrum Cultivars: various The Greek physician Hippocrates is thought to have prescribed this vegetable as a cure for nose bleeds. Leeks make an appearance in what is regarded as the world’s first cookbook, “Apicius de re Coquinaria,” (“On the Subject of Cooking”) compiled in fourth- to fifth-century Rome. The recipe collection includes several for leeks, most of which showcase it not as a seasoning for other foods, but as a vegetable to be enjoyed on its own. It is thought that the vegetable spread across Europe and to the British Isles by the marauding Romans. European settlers brought the vegetable to North America. For reasons that are not completely understood, the vegetable is today the national emblem of Wales and is worn proudly on St. David’s Day – a holiday to honor the country’s patron saint. Propagation You can grow leeks from seed or, like the pineapple, propagate it from kitchen scraps. From Seed Start seeds indoors in pots or seed trays. Scatter seeds on top of a rich potting mix, and then cover them with a scant dusting of soil. You can expect germination within five to 12 days. Or you can direct sow outdoors, as long as air temperatures are below 77 and above 55°F. The optimal temperature for germination is between 70 and 77°F. Seedlings will be ready to transplant when they’re six to eight inches tall. Harden them off by moving them outdoors for a few hours each day, gradually lengthening the time spent outside each day for about a week. When you’re ready to transplant, remove seedlings from the soil and gently separate them. Create narrow holes in your prepared bed that are about half as deep as the seedlings, from the root to the top of the stem. The holes should be narrow, not more than an inch in diameter, and can be made by poking a dowel or ‘dibber’ into the ground – as opposed to digging a hole with a garden spade. They should be spaced 6 inches apart in rows that are one foot apart. Set the seedlings into the holes; some of the green part may be below the soil surface, and that’s okay for this plant. Fill the holes with water, but do not backfill the holes with soil. The soil will gradually crumble in, but it will be loose, allowing the leeks to swell to a plump diameter as they grow. From Scraps You can also start a new plant from the rooted bit at the end of a leek stalk. Simply cut off and use the top, leaving at least an inch of stalk at the end, with the roots intact. Place this bit in a cup, add water to cover about half the stalk, put it in a sunny window, and soon you will have more greens shooting up. You can also use toothpicks to suspend the cutting in water, as you would with an avocado pit. Once the top part has started to show new growth of two to three inches, you can plant it out in the garden. Alternatively, keep it in the water to continue growing and harvest straight from your windowsill! How to Grow Leeks prefer rich, well-draining soil with a pH between 6.0 and 7.0. They need a minimum of eight hours of bright sunlight daily. Many varieties require a long growing period of 120 to 150 days, but newer cultivars may require as few as 90 days to mature. With a shallow root system, leeks need about an inch of water per week, so track your local precipitation rates and irrigate if it doesn’t rain. Mulch the growing area well. The white part of the leek is the most desirable for cooking and eating, being tender and less fibrous than the green. Therefore, gardeners often hill the dirt around the shaft to prevent that part of the plant from making chlorophyll and turning green. Alternatively, you can fashion a sheath out of cardboard or other porous material to wrap around the stalk as it grows. It needs to be opaque but still allow for some airflow, otherwise the leek may start to rot. About midway through the growing season, side dress the growing area about six inches away from the plants with a balanced fertilizer such as a 10-10-10 NPK mix at a rate of one cup for 10 feet of row. Leeks are highly tolerant of cold. Depending on the variety, they can take temperatures down to 5°F or so, and a frost or two is said to improve their flavor. But you definitely want to pull them before the ground freezes. If you live in a place where you can overwinter leeks, consider that they will probably bolt in spring if they’ve been exposed to frosts and then the weather warms up. If it’s their second year of life, they’ll bolt regardless, being biennial. So pull them before the weather gets too warm, or let a few bolt for seed saving purposes. The round purple, lavender, or pink flowers are quite attractive, and after they go to seed, you can harvest and save the seeds for planting next year. To do this, pluck the pods when they start to crack open. Place them in paper bags to dry, then shake the bags to separate the seeds from the chaff. If you store the seeds in a cool, dry place, they should remain viable for up to three years. You can eat the leeks after they bolt, but they’re not very good. Cultivars to Select As referenced throughout this article, a number of leek cultivars are available, all with various enticing qualities. American Flag This heirloom variety is hardy and will overwinter in mild climates. ‘American Flag’ grows to 20 inches tall and 1.5-2 inches thick. It has thick, blue-green leaves. ‘American Flag’ ‘American Flag’ matures in 130 days. Find seeds in a variety of quantities from Eden Brothers. Early Giant Good for planting in early spring, ‘Early Giant’ has a shorter maturation period of 98 days. This heirloom variety is known for its consistent size and great flavor. ‘Early Giant’ Eden Brothers sells a number of quantities of seeds of this variety. Autumn Giant Leek This tall heirloom grows as tall as 30 inches, with stalks that can reach three inches wide at maturity. ‘Autumn Giant’ is ready to harvest in 135 to 150 days. ‘Autumn Giant’ Get packages of about 50 seeds from Frozen Seed Capsules via Amazon. Lancelot This adaptable hybrid grows a 12- to 14-inch white shafts with dark blue-green flags. ‘Lancelot’ grows well in many zones, and matures in 75 days. ‘Lancelot’ Packages of 72 seedlings of this cultivar are available from Burpee. Pests and Disease Leeks, unfortunately, are impacted by a few insects and several types of fungi. Insects Keep an eye out for these insect pests: Leafminers (Lyriomyza spp.) These tiny, 1/8-inch flies are generally yellow, dark gray, or black, or a combination thereof. They leave thin, white, winding trails on leaves. You might also see white blotches on leaves. The fly lays its eggs in the leaf, and the larvae feed on the leaf’s interior. Use neem oil to get rid of these pests. Find more tips on leafminer control here. Onion Maggots (Delia antiqua) The tiny white larvae of this quarter-inch gray fly emerge from eggs laid on leek leaves or in the soil, and then bore into the plant. They grow to about half an inch long, using their feeding hooks to tear up the plant. This is damaging in and of itself, and the damaged plants are also more susceptible to other pathogens, such as bacteria. Leaves of affected plants turn yellow and the stalk rots. Prevention – such as through crop rotation – is the best way to prevent an infestation. One a plant is impacted, it must be dug up and destroyed. Thrips (Thrips tabaci) Yellow or black dots on plants may be a symptom of thrips. Another sign is leaves that turn silver or gray, or leaves that twist and die. Thrips are small winged insects that damage plants by sucking fluids out. Control them with insecticidal soap, neem oil, or spinosa, a biological pesticide. Read more about thrip identification and control here. Disease Leeks may be plagued by a number of types of fungi, all of which can be treated with a commercial fungicide. Good airflow and proper planting techniques and watering practices, as well as diligently ridding the beds of errant weeds, can help to protect your plants. Here are the primary culprits: Rust (Phragmidium spp.) Rust is a fungal disease that presents as orange pustules on leaves. Botrytis Leaf Blight (Botrytis squamosa) This fungus is characterized by small white lesions ringed in light green. Damping Off (Fusarium spp.) Seedlings that grow slowly and then wilt and die may be a sign of damping off. Root tips of affected plants may be tan, yellow, black, or pink. Learn more about this disease here. Downy Mildew (Peronospora parasitica) Purplish-gray fuzzy growth on leaf surfaces may be a sign of downy mildew. You may see pale spots on leaves, followed by widespread leaf yellowing and collapsed leaf tips. Pink Root (Phoma terrestris) Stunted plants with undersized shafts may be a sign of pink root, which also causes roots to turn light pink and then darken to purple. The roots may be transparent and water-soaked. Purple Blotch (Alternaria porri) Purple blotch presents on the flag or stalk with small, water-soaked lesions with white centers. These blotches enlarge and become brown or purple, with yellow edges. Foliage may die. White Rot (Sclerotinia cepivorum) White rot can stunt growth, causing yellowing of leaves, and eventual death of all foliage. You may see a fluffy white growth at the base of the plant. Harvesting Most leek varieties are fully developed when the stems grow to be a minimum of one inch in width. Some smaller varieties, however, mature at one-half to three-fourths of an inch in diameter. Check your seed packets so you know what to look for. A good quality leek should have a firm, white shaft that’s more than three inches long. Leeks can be harvested whenever they’ve reached their desired size. Leek tops do not die back as the plant matures, unlike with onions and shallots, so you can’t rely on that marker. Simply twist and – gently – pull leeks to harvest them. Or you can dig around them if the soil is dry, and lift them up. You can trim flags to a more manageable length for storage, if you like. See our guide to how to harvest leeks for seven expert tips. Preserving Store leeks in an airtight plastic bag in the crisper drawer of the refrigerator; they’ll stay fresh for about a week. In really cold areas, there’s a longer-term storage option: After harvest, leave the roots attached, but cut the flag back to about an inch. Place stems root-end down in a box and fill it with sand, vermiculite, or sawdust. Keep the packing moist, but not waterlogged, and store in a cool place, where they will keep for about eight weeks. You can freeze these veggies too. Wash them thoroughly (more on this shortly), slice them, and blanch for one minute in boiling water. Blanching helps vegetables to retain their color and nutrients, and it destroys enzymes that can cause spoilage. Drain the blanched slices, dry them, and place them in zip-top plastic freezer bags for storage. They should keep for three to four months. It’s Smelling a Bit Strong in Here Most gardeners who’ve grown leeks consider them to be fairly easy to grow. As long as you give them nutritious soil, some fertilizer, and sufficient water, they should do well in your garden. You’ll also want to keep an eye out for pests and fungi. If you’re not terribly familiar with leeks as an ingredient in your cooking, try expanding your kitchen repertoire with this delicious allium. What better way to do that is there than by growing your own? Are you an experienced leek grower? Please share your wisdom in the comments below. While we’re exploring the alliums, why not check out a few onion articles? Give these a read next: Photos by Fanny Slater and Raquel Smith © Ask the Experts, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. See our TOS for more details. Originally published December 3rd, 2019. Last updated January 19th, 2025. Product photos via Burpee, Eden Brothers, Seeds4planting, and Amazon. Uncredited photos: Shutterstock. Additional writing and editing by Clare Groom and Allison Sidhu. !function(f,b,e,v,n,t,s) if(f.fbq)return;n=f.fbq=function()n.callMethod? n.callMethod.apply(n,arguments):n.queue.push(arguments); if(!f._fbq)f._fbq=n;n.push=n;n.loaded=!0;n.version='2.0'; n.queue=[];t=b.createElement(e);t.async=!0; t.src=v;s=b.getElementsByTagName(e)[0]; s.parentNode.insertBefore(t,s)(window, document,'script', ' fbq('init', '176410929431717'); fbq('track', 'PageView'); Source link

[angusstory]

Allium ampeloprasum var. porrum The leek looks like a steroid-fueled green onion. It’s considerably fatter than a scallion, at one to three inches wide, and about twice as tall. But it totally wears the same outfit, albeit in a bigger size. It is in fact related to onions, offering a mild, sweet, onion-like flavor that is used to season any number of dishes – more on that later in this article. Leeks are a cool-weather crop, with an ideal growing-temperature range of 55 to 75°F. Like collard greens, they appreciate a frost or two for better flavor development. We link to vendors to help you find relevant products. If you buy from one of our links, we may earn a commission. Most varieties are hardy to Zones 7 or 8, though some types can tolerate cooler weather. We’ll offer some specifics shortly. The plant is a biennial, though damage and dieback due to a hard freeze will make it an annual. The topmost, leafy green part of the plant is called the “flag,” and the white part is usually called the “stem” or “stalk,” though botanically speaking these are misnomers. The white part of the plant is technically a tight bundle of leaf sheaths. Ready to dive in to the fascinating world of the leek? Here’s what’s to come in this article: It’s time to get growing! Leeks are native to the eastern Mediterranean and the Middle East. They were cultivated in Egypt more than 4,000 years ago, and enjoyed by the workers who built the pyramids. As well as being a staple in the diet of ordinary people, apparently the emperor Nero was fond of a leek or two, eating them almost daily to strengthen his voice. Quick Look Common name(s): Leek Plant type: Biennial vegetable Hardiness (USDA Zone): 5-10 Native to: Mediterranean Season: Spring Exposure: Full sun Soil type: Rich and well draining Soil pH: 6.0-7, slightly acidic to neutral Time to maturity: 80-150 days, depends on variety Spacing: 6 inches Planting depth: Seeds -1/8 inch, seedlings – half the depth Mature size: 6-12 inches wide x 2-3 feet high Water Needs: 1 inch per week Taxonomy Order: Apiales Family: Amaryllidaceae Genus: Allium Species: A. ampeloprasum var. porrum Cultivars: various The Greek physician Hippocrates is thought to have prescribed this vegetable as a cure for nose bleeds. Leeks make an appearance in what is regarded as the world’s first cookbook, “Apicius de re Coquinaria,” (“On the Subject of Cooking”) compiled in fourth- to fifth-century Rome. The recipe collection includes several for leeks, most of which showcase it not as a seasoning for other foods, but as a vegetable to be enjoyed on its own. It is thought that the vegetable spread across Europe and to the British Isles by the marauding Romans. European settlers brought the vegetable to North America. For reasons that are not completely understood, the vegetable is today the national emblem of Wales and is worn proudly on St. David’s Day – a holiday to honor the country’s patron saint. Propagation You can grow leeks from seed or, like the pineapple, propagate it from kitchen scraps. From Seed Start seeds indoors in pots or seed trays. Scatter seeds on top of a rich potting mix, and then cover them with a scant dusting of soil. You can expect germination within five to 12 days. Or you can direct sow outdoors, as long as air temperatures are below 77 and above 55°F. The optimal temperature for germination is between 70 and 77°F. Seedlings will be ready to transplant when they’re six to eight inches tall. Harden them off by moving them outdoors for a few hours each day, gradually lengthening the time spent outside each day for about a week. When you’re ready to transplant, remove seedlings from the soil and gently separate them. Create narrow holes in your prepared bed that are about half as deep as the seedlings, from the root to the top of the stem. The holes should be narrow, not more than an inch in diameter, and can be made by poking a dowel or ‘dibber’ into the ground – as opposed to digging a hole with a garden spade. They should be spaced 6 inches apart in rows that are one foot apart. Set the seedlings into the holes; some of the green part may be below the soil surface, and that’s okay for this plant. Fill the holes with water, but do not backfill the holes with soil. The soil will gradually crumble in, but it will be loose, allowing the leeks to swell to a plump diameter as they grow. From Scraps You can also start a new plant from the rooted bit at the end of a leek stalk. Simply cut off and use the top, leaving at least an inch of stalk at the end, with the roots intact. Place this bit in a cup, add water to cover about half the stalk, put it in a sunny window, and soon you will have more greens shooting up. You can also use toothpicks to suspend the cutting in water, as you would with an avocado pit. Once the top part has started to show new growth of two to three inches, you can plant it out in the garden. Alternatively, keep it in the water to continue growing and harvest straight from your windowsill! How to Grow Leeks prefer rich, well-draining soil with a pH between 6.0 and 7.0. They need a minimum of eight hours of bright sunlight daily. Many varieties require a long growing period of 120 to 150 days, but newer cultivars may require as few as 90 days to mature. With a shallow root system, leeks need about an inch of water per week, so track your local precipitation rates and irrigate if it doesn’t rain. Mulch the growing area well. The white part of the leek is the most desirable for cooking and eating, being tender and less fibrous than the green. Therefore, gardeners often hill the dirt around the shaft to prevent that part of the plant from making chlorophyll and turning green. Alternatively, you can fashion a sheath out of cardboard or other porous material to wrap around the stalk as it grows. It needs to be opaque but still allow for some airflow, otherwise the leek may start to rot. About midway through the growing season, side dress the growing area about six inches away from the plants with a balanced fertilizer such as a 10-10-10 NPK mix at a rate of one cup for 10 feet of row. Leeks are highly tolerant of cold. Depending on the variety, they can take temperatures down to 5°F or so, and a frost or two is said to improve their flavor. But you definitely want to pull them before the ground freezes. If you live in a place where you can overwinter leeks, consider that they will probably bolt in spring if they’ve been exposed to frosts and then the weather warms up. If it’s their second year of life, they’ll bolt regardless, being biennial. So pull them before the weather gets too warm, or let a few bolt for seed saving purposes. The round purple, lavender, or pink flowers are quite attractive, and after they go to seed, you can harvest and save the seeds for planting next year. To do this, pluck the pods when they start to crack open. Place them in paper bags to dry, then shake the bags to separate the seeds from the chaff. If you store the seeds in a cool, dry place, they should remain viable for up to three years. You can eat the leeks after they bolt, but they’re not very good. Cultivars to Select As referenced throughout this article, a number of leek cultivars are available, all with various enticing qualities. American Flag This heirloom variety is hardy and will overwinter in mild climates. ‘American Flag’ grows to 20 inches tall and 1.5-2 inches thick. It has thick, blue-green leaves. ‘American Flag’ ‘American Flag’ matures in 130 days. Find seeds in a variety of quantities from Eden Brothers. Early Giant Good for planting in early spring, ‘Early Giant’ has a shorter maturation period of 98 days. This heirloom variety is known for its consistent size and great flavor. ‘Early Giant’ Eden Brothers sells a number of quantities of seeds of this variety. Autumn Giant Leek This tall heirloom grows as tall as 30 inches, with stalks that can reach three inches wide at maturity. ‘Autumn Giant’ is ready to harvest in 135 to 150 days. ‘Autumn Giant’ Get packages of about 50 seeds from Frozen Seed Capsules via Amazon. Lancelot This adaptable hybrid grows a 12- to 14-inch white shafts with dark blue-green flags. ‘Lancelot’ grows well in many zones, and matures in 75 days. ‘Lancelot’ Packages of 72 seedlings of this cultivar are available from Burpee. Pests and Disease Leeks, unfortunately, are impacted by a few insects and several types of fungi. Insects Keep an eye out for these insect pests: Leafminers (Lyriomyza spp.) These tiny, 1/8-inch flies are generally yellow, dark gray, or black, or a combination thereof. They leave thin, white, winding trails on leaves. You might also see white blotches on leaves. The fly lays its eggs in the leaf, and the larvae feed on the leaf’s interior. Use neem oil to get rid of these pests. Find more tips on leafminer control here. Onion Maggots (Delia antiqua) The tiny white larvae of this quarter-inch gray fly emerge from eggs laid on leek leaves or in the soil, and then bore into the plant. They grow to about half an inch long, using their feeding hooks to tear up the plant. This is damaging in and of itself, and the damaged plants are also more susceptible to other pathogens, such as bacteria. Leaves of affected plants turn yellow and the stalk rots. Prevention – such as through crop rotation – is the best way to prevent an infestation. One a plant is impacted, it must be dug up and destroyed. Thrips (Thrips tabaci) Yellow or black dots on plants may be a symptom of thrips. Another sign is leaves that turn silver or gray, or leaves that twist and die. Thrips are small winged insects that damage plants by sucking fluids out. Control them with insecticidal soap, neem oil, or spinosa, a biological pesticide. Read more about thrip identification and control here. Disease Leeks may be plagued by a number of types of fungi, all of which can be treated with a commercial fungicide. Good airflow and proper planting techniques and watering practices, as well as diligently ridding the beds of errant weeds, can help to protect your plants. Here are the primary culprits: Rust (Phragmidium spp.) Rust is a fungal disease that presents as orange pustules on leaves. Botrytis Leaf Blight (Botrytis squamosa) This fungus is characterized by small white lesions ringed in light green. Damping Off (Fusarium spp.) Seedlings that grow slowly and then wilt and die may be a sign of damping off. Root tips of affected plants may be tan, yellow, black, or pink. Learn more about this disease here. Downy Mildew (Peronospora parasitica) Purplish-gray fuzzy growth on leaf surfaces may be a sign of downy mildew. You may see pale spots on leaves, followed by widespread leaf yellowing and collapsed leaf tips. Pink Root (Phoma terrestris) Stunted plants with undersized shafts may be a sign of pink root, which also causes roots to turn light pink and then darken to purple. The roots may be transparent and water-soaked. Purple Blotch (Alternaria porri) Purple blotch presents on the flag or stalk with small, water-soaked lesions with white centers. These blotches enlarge and become brown or purple, with yellow edges. Foliage may die. White Rot (Sclerotinia cepivorum) White rot can stunt growth, causing yellowing of leaves, and eventual death of all foliage. You may see a fluffy white growth at the base of the plant. Harvesting Most leek varieties are fully developed when the stems grow to be a minimum of one inch in width. Some smaller varieties, however, mature at one-half to three-fourths of an inch in diameter. Check your seed packets so you know what to look for. A good quality leek should have a firm, white shaft that’s more than three inches long. Leeks can be harvested whenever they’ve reached their desired size. Leek tops do not die back as the plant matures, unlike with onions and shallots, so you can’t rely on that marker. Simply twist and – gently – pull leeks to harvest them. Or you can dig around them if the soil is dry, and lift them up. You can trim flags to a more manageable length for storage, if you like. See our guide to how to harvest leeks for seven expert tips. Preserving Store leeks in an airtight plastic bag in the crisper drawer of the refrigerator; they’ll stay fresh for about a week. In really cold areas, there’s a longer-term storage option: After harvest, leave the roots attached, but cut the flag back to about an inch. Place stems root-end down in a box and fill it with sand, vermiculite, or sawdust. Keep the packing moist, but not waterlogged, and store in a cool place, where they will keep for about eight weeks. You can freeze these veggies too. Wash them thoroughly (more on this shortly), slice them, and blanch for one minute in boiling water. Blanching helps vegetables to retain their color and nutrients, and it destroys enzymes that can cause spoilage. Drain the blanched slices, dry them, and place them in zip-top plastic freezer bags for storage. They should keep for three to four months. It’s Smelling a Bit Strong in Here Most gardeners who’ve grown leeks consider them to be fairly easy to grow. As long as you give them nutritious soil, some fertilizer, and sufficient water, they should do well in your garden. You’ll also want to keep an eye out for pests and fungi. If you’re not terribly familiar with leeks as an ingredient in your cooking, try expanding your kitchen repertoire with this delicious allium. What better way to do that is there than by growing your own? Are you an experienced leek grower? Please share your wisdom in the comments below. While we’re exploring the alliums, why not check out a few onion articles? Give these a read next: Photos by Fanny Slater and Raquel Smith © Ask the Experts, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. See our TOS for more details. Originally published December 3rd, 2019. Last updated January 19th, 2025. Product photos via Burpee, Eden Brothers, Seeds4planting, and Amazon. Uncredited photos: Shutterstock. Additional writing and editing by Clare Groom and Allison Sidhu. !function(f,b,e,v,n,t,s) if(f.fbq)return;n=f.fbq=function()n.callMethod? n.callMethod.apply(n,arguments):n.queue.push(arguments); if(!f._fbq)f._fbq=n;n.push=n;n.loaded=!0;n.version='2.0'; n.queue=[];t=b.createElement(e);t.async=!0; t.src=v;s=b.getElementsByTagName(e)[0]; s.parentNode.insertBefore(t,s)(window, document,'script', ' fbq('init', '176410929431717'); fbq('track', 'PageView'); Source link

[tumibaba]

Allium ampeloprasum var. porrum The leek looks like a steroid-fueled green onion. It’s considerably fatter than a scallion, at one to three inches wide, and about twice as tall. But it totally wears the same outfit, albeit in a bigger size. It is in fact related to onions, offering a mild, sweet, onion-like flavor that is used to season any number of dishes – more on that later in this article. Leeks are a cool-weather crop, with an ideal growing-temperature range of 55 to 75°F. Like collard greens, they appreciate a frost or two for better flavor development. We link to vendors to help you find relevant products. If you buy from one of our links, we may earn a commission. Most varieties are hardy to Zones 7 or 8, though some types can tolerate cooler weather. We’ll offer some specifics shortly. The plant is a biennial, though damage and dieback due to a hard freeze will make it an annual. The topmost, leafy green part of the plant is called the “flag,” and the white part is usually called the “stem” or “stalk,” though botanically speaking these are misnomers. The white part of the plant is technically a tight bundle of leaf sheaths. Ready to dive in to the fascinating world of the leek? Here’s what’s to come in this article: It’s time to get growing! Leeks are native to the eastern Mediterranean and the Middle East. They were cultivated in Egypt more than 4,000 years ago, and enjoyed by the workers who built the pyramids. As well as being a staple in the diet of ordinary people, apparently the emperor Nero was fond of a leek or two, eating them almost daily to strengthen his voice. Quick Look Common name(s): Leek Plant type: Biennial vegetable Hardiness (USDA Zone): 5-10 Native to: Mediterranean Season: Spring Exposure: Full sun Soil type: Rich and well draining Soil pH: 6.0-7, slightly acidic to neutral Time to maturity: 80-150 days, depends on variety Spacing: 6 inches Planting depth: Seeds -1/8 inch, seedlings – half the depth Mature size: 6-12 inches wide x 2-3 feet high Water Needs: 1 inch per week Taxonomy Order: Apiales Family: Amaryllidaceae Genus: Allium Species: A. ampeloprasum var. porrum Cultivars: various The Greek physician Hippocrates is thought to have prescribed this vegetable as a cure for nose bleeds. Leeks make an appearance in what is regarded as the world’s first cookbook, “Apicius de re Coquinaria,” (“On the Subject of Cooking”) compiled in fourth- to fifth-century Rome. The recipe collection includes several for leeks, most of which showcase it not as a seasoning for other foods, but as a vegetable to be enjoyed on its own. It is thought that the vegetable spread across Europe and to the British Isles by the marauding Romans. European settlers brought the vegetable to North America. For reasons that are not completely understood, the vegetable is today the national emblem of Wales and is worn proudly on St. David’s Day – a holiday to honor the country’s patron saint. Propagation You can grow leeks from seed or, like the pineapple, propagate it from kitchen scraps. From Seed Start seeds indoors in pots or seed trays. Scatter seeds on top of a rich potting mix, and then cover them with a scant dusting of soil. You can expect germination within five to 12 days. Or you can direct sow outdoors, as long as air temperatures are below 77 and above 55°F. The optimal temperature for germination is between 70 and 77°F. Seedlings will be ready to transplant when they’re six to eight inches tall. Harden them off by moving them outdoors for a few hours each day, gradually lengthening the time spent outside each day for about a week. When you’re ready to transplant, remove seedlings from the soil and gently separate them. Create narrow holes in your prepared bed that are about half as deep as the seedlings, from the root to the top of the stem. The holes should be narrow, not more than an inch in diameter, and can be made by poking a dowel or ‘dibber’ into the ground – as opposed to digging a hole with a garden spade. They should be spaced 6 inches apart in rows that are one foot apart. Set the seedlings into the holes; some of the green part may be below the soil surface, and that’s okay for this plant. Fill the holes with water, but do not backfill the holes with soil. The soil will gradually crumble in, but it will be loose, allowing the leeks to swell to a plump diameter as they grow. From Scraps You can also start a new plant from the rooted bit at the end of a leek stalk. Simply cut off and use the top, leaving at least an inch of stalk at the end, with the roots intact. Place this bit in a cup, add water to cover about half the stalk, put it in a sunny window, and soon you will have more greens shooting up. You can also use toothpicks to suspend the cutting in water, as you would with an avocado pit. Once the top part has started to show new growth of two to three inches, you can plant it out in the garden. Alternatively, keep it in the water to continue growing and harvest straight from your windowsill! How to Grow Leeks prefer rich, well-draining soil with a pH between 6.0 and 7.0. They need a minimum of eight hours of bright sunlight daily. Many varieties require a long growing period of 120 to 150 days, but newer cultivars may require as few as 90 days to mature. With a shallow root system, leeks need about an inch of water per week, so track your local precipitation rates and irrigate if it doesn’t rain. Mulch the growing area well. The white part of the leek is the most desirable for cooking and eating, being tender and less fibrous than the green. Therefore, gardeners often hill the dirt around the shaft to prevent that part of the plant from making chlorophyll and turning green. Alternatively, you can fashion a sheath out of cardboard or other porous material to wrap around the stalk as it grows. It needs to be opaque but still allow for some airflow, otherwise the leek may start to rot. About midway through the growing season, side dress the growing area about six inches away from the plants with a balanced fertilizer such as a 10-10-10 NPK mix at a rate of one cup for 10 feet of row. Leeks are highly tolerant of cold. Depending on the variety, they can take temperatures down to 5°F or so, and a frost or two is said to improve their flavor. But you definitely want to pull them before the ground freezes. If you live in a place where you can overwinter leeks, consider that they will probably bolt in spring if they’ve been exposed to frosts and then the weather warms up. If it’s their second year of life, they’ll bolt regardless, being biennial. So pull them before the weather gets too warm, or let a few bolt for seed saving purposes. The round purple, lavender, or pink flowers are quite attractive, and after they go to seed, you can harvest and save the seeds for planting next year. To do this, pluck the pods when they start to crack open. Place them in paper bags to dry, then shake the bags to separate the seeds from the chaff. If you store the seeds in a cool, dry place, they should remain viable for up to three years. You can eat the leeks after they bolt, but they’re not very good. Cultivars to Select As referenced throughout this article, a number of leek cultivars are available, all with various enticing qualities. American Flag This heirloom variety is hardy and will overwinter in mild climates. ‘American Flag’ grows to 20 inches tall and 1.5-2 inches thick. It has thick, blue-green leaves. ‘American Flag’ ‘American Flag’ matures in 130 days. Find seeds in a variety of quantities from Eden Brothers. Early Giant Good for planting in early spring, ‘Early Giant’ has a shorter maturation period of 98 days. This heirloom variety is known for its consistent size and great flavor. ‘Early Giant’ Eden Brothers sells a number of quantities of seeds of this variety. Autumn Giant Leek This tall heirloom grows as tall as 30 inches, with stalks that can reach three inches wide at maturity. ‘Autumn Giant’ is ready to harvest in 135 to 150 days. ‘Autumn Giant’ Get packages of about 50 seeds from Frozen Seed Capsules via Amazon. Lancelot This adaptable hybrid grows a 12- to 14-inch white shafts with dark blue-green flags. ‘Lancelot’ grows well in many zones, and matures in 75 days. ‘Lancelot’ Packages of 72 seedlings of this cultivar are available from Burpee. Pests and Disease Leeks, unfortunately, are impacted by a few insects and several types of fungi. Insects Keep an eye out for these insect pests: Leafminers (Lyriomyza spp.) These tiny, 1/8-inch flies are generally yellow, dark gray, or black, or a combination thereof. They leave thin, white, winding trails on leaves. You might also see white blotches on leaves. The fly lays its eggs in the leaf, and the larvae feed on the leaf’s interior. Use neem oil to get rid of these pests. Find more tips on leafminer control here. Onion Maggots (Delia antiqua) The tiny white larvae of this quarter-inch gray fly emerge from eggs laid on leek leaves or in the soil, and then bore into the plant. They grow to about half an inch long, using their feeding hooks to tear up the plant. This is damaging in and of itself, and the damaged plants are also more susceptible to other pathogens, such as bacteria. Leaves of affected plants turn yellow and the stalk rots. Prevention – such as through crop rotation – is the best way to prevent an infestation. One a plant is impacted, it must be dug up and destroyed. Thrips (Thrips tabaci) Yellow or black dots on plants may be a symptom of thrips. Another sign is leaves that turn silver or gray, or leaves that twist and die. Thrips are small winged insects that damage plants by sucking fluids out. Control them with insecticidal soap, neem oil, or spinosa, a biological pesticide. Read more about thrip identification and control here. Disease Leeks may be plagued by a number of types of fungi, all of which can be treated with a commercial fungicide. Good airflow and proper planting techniques and watering practices, as well as diligently ridding the beds of errant weeds, can help to protect your plants. Here are the primary culprits: Rust (Phragmidium spp.) Rust is a fungal disease that presents as orange pustules on leaves. Botrytis Leaf Blight (Botrytis squamosa) This fungus is characterized by small white lesions ringed in light green. Damping Off (Fusarium spp.) Seedlings that grow slowly and then wilt and die may be a sign of damping off. Root tips of affected plants may be tan, yellow, black, or pink. Learn more about this disease here. Downy Mildew (Peronospora parasitica) Purplish-gray fuzzy growth on leaf surfaces may be a sign of downy mildew. You may see pale spots on leaves, followed by widespread leaf yellowing and collapsed leaf tips. Pink Root (Phoma terrestris) Stunted plants with undersized shafts may be a sign of pink root, which also causes roots to turn light pink and then darken to purple. The roots may be transparent and water-soaked. Purple Blotch (Alternaria porri) Purple blotch presents on the flag or stalk with small, water-soaked lesions with white centers. These blotches enlarge and become brown or purple, with yellow edges. Foliage may die. White Rot (Sclerotinia cepivorum) White rot can stunt growth, causing yellowing of leaves, and eventual death of all foliage. You may see a fluffy white growth at the base of the plant. Harvesting Most leek varieties are fully developed when the stems grow to be a minimum of one inch in width. Some smaller varieties, however, mature at one-half to three-fourths of an inch in diameter. Check your seed packets so you know what to look for. A good quality leek should have a firm, white shaft that’s more than three inches long. Leeks can be harvested whenever they’ve reached their desired size. Leek tops do not die back as the plant matures, unlike with onions and shallots, so you can’t rely on that marker. Simply twist and – gently – pull leeks to harvest them. Or you can dig around them if the soil is dry, and lift them up. You can trim flags to a more manageable length for storage, if you like. See our guide to how to harvest leeks for seven expert tips. Preserving Store leeks in an airtight plastic bag in the crisper drawer of the refrigerator; they’ll stay fresh for about a week. In really cold areas, there’s a longer-term storage option: After harvest, leave the roots attached, but cut the flag back to about an inch. Place stems root-end down in a box and fill it with sand, vermiculite, or sawdust. Keep the packing moist, but not waterlogged, and store in a cool place, where they will keep for about eight weeks. You can freeze these veggies too. Wash them thoroughly (more on this shortly), slice them, and blanch for one minute in boiling water. Blanching helps vegetables to retain their color and nutrients, and it destroys enzymes that can cause spoilage. Drain the blanched slices, dry them, and place them in zip-top plastic freezer bags for storage. They should keep for three to four months. It’s Smelling a Bit Strong in Here Most gardeners who’ve grown leeks consider them to be fairly easy to grow. As long as you give them nutritious soil, some fertilizer, and sufficient water, they should do well in your garden. You’ll also want to keep an eye out for pests and fungi. If you’re not terribly familiar with leeks as an ingredient in your cooking, try expanding your kitchen repertoire with this delicious allium. What better way to do that is there than by growing your own? Are you an experienced leek grower? Please share your wisdom in the comments below. While we’re exploring the alliums, why not check out a few onion articles? Give these a read next: Photos by Fanny Slater and Raquel Smith © Ask the Experts, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. See our TOS for more details. Originally published December 3rd, 2019. Last updated January 19th, 2025. Product photos via Burpee, Eden Brothers, Seeds4planting, and Amazon. Uncredited photos: Shutterstock. Additional writing and editing by Clare Groom and Allison Sidhu. !function(f,b,e,v,n,t,s) if(f.fbq)return;n=f.fbq=function()n.callMethod? n.callMethod.apply(n,arguments):n.queue.push(arguments); if(!f._fbq)f._fbq=n;n.push=n;n.loaded=!0;n.version='2.0'; n.queue=[];t=b.createElement(e);t.async=!0; t.src=v;s=b.getElementsByTagName(e)[0]; s.parentNode.insertBefore(t,s)(window, document,'script', ' fbq('init', '176410929431717'); fbq('track', 'PageView'); Source link

[romaleen]

Allium ampeloprasum var. porrum The leek looks like a steroid-fueled green onion. It’s considerably fatter than a scallion, at one to three inches wide, and about twice as tall. But it totally wears the same outfit, albeit in a bigger size. It is in fact related to onions, offering a mild, sweet, onion-like flavor that is used to season any number of dishes – more on that later in this article. Leeks are a cool-weather crop, with an ideal growing-temperature range of 55 to 75°F. Like collard greens, they appreciate a frost or two for better flavor development. We link to vendors to help you find relevant products. If you buy from one of our links, we may earn a commission. Most varieties are hardy to Zones 7 or 8, though some types can tolerate cooler weather. We’ll offer some specifics shortly. The plant is a biennial, though damage and dieback due to a hard freeze will make it an annual. The topmost, leafy green part of the plant is called the “flag,” and the white part is usually called the “stem” or “stalk,” though botanically speaking these are misnomers. The white part of the plant is technically a tight bundle of leaf sheaths. Ready to dive in to the fascinating world of the leek? Here’s what’s to come in this article: It’s time to get growing! Leeks are native to the eastern Mediterranean and the Middle East. They were cultivated in Egypt more than 4,000 years ago, and enjoyed by the workers who built the pyramids. As well as being a staple in the diet of ordinary people, apparently the emperor Nero was fond of a leek or two, eating them almost daily to strengthen his voice. Quick Look Common name(s): Leek Plant type: Biennial vegetable Hardiness (USDA Zone): 5-10 Native to: Mediterranean Season: Spring Exposure: Full sun Soil type: Rich and well draining Soil pH: 6.0-7, slightly acidic to neutral Time to maturity: 80-150 days, depends on variety Spacing: 6 inches Planting depth: Seeds -1/8 inch, seedlings – half the depth Mature size: 6-12 inches wide x 2-3 feet high Water Needs: 1 inch per week Taxonomy Order: Apiales Family: Amaryllidaceae Genus: Allium Species: A. ampeloprasum var. porrum Cultivars: various The Greek physician Hippocrates is thought to have prescribed this vegetable as a cure for nose bleeds. Leeks make an appearance in what is regarded as the world’s first cookbook, “Apicius de re Coquinaria,” (“On the Subject of Cooking”) compiled in fourth- to fifth-century Rome. The recipe collection includes several for leeks, most of which showcase it not as a seasoning for other foods, but as a vegetable to be enjoyed on its own. It is thought that the vegetable spread across Europe and to the British Isles by the marauding Romans. European settlers brought the vegetable to North America. For reasons that are not completely understood, the vegetable is today the national emblem of Wales and is worn proudly on St. David’s Day – a holiday to honor the country’s patron saint. Propagation You can grow leeks from seed or, like the pineapple, propagate it from kitchen scraps. From Seed Start seeds indoors in pots or seed trays. Scatter seeds on top of a rich potting mix, and then cover them with a scant dusting of soil. You can expect germination within five to 12 days. Or you can direct sow outdoors, as long as air temperatures are below 77 and above 55°F. The optimal temperature for germination is between 70 and 77°F. Seedlings will be ready to transplant when they’re six to eight inches tall. Harden them off by moving them outdoors for a few hours each day, gradually lengthening the time spent outside each day for about a week. When you’re ready to transplant, remove seedlings from the soil and gently separate them. Create narrow holes in your prepared bed that are about half as deep as the seedlings, from the root to the top of the stem. The holes should be narrow, not more than an inch in diameter, and can be made by poking a dowel or ‘dibber’ into the ground – as opposed to digging a hole with a garden spade. They should be spaced 6 inches apart in rows that are one foot apart. Set the seedlings into the holes; some of the green part may be below the soil surface, and that’s okay for this plant. Fill the holes with water, but do not backfill the holes with soil. The soil will gradually crumble in, but it will be loose, allowing the leeks to swell to a plump diameter as they grow. From Scraps You can also start a new plant from the rooted bit at the end of a leek stalk. Simply cut off and use the top, leaving at least an inch of stalk at the end, with the roots intact. Place this bit in a cup, add water to cover about half the stalk, put it in a sunny window, and soon you will have more greens shooting up. You can also use toothpicks to suspend the cutting in water, as you would with an avocado pit. Once the top part has started to show new growth of two to three inches, you can plant it out in the garden. Alternatively, keep it in the water to continue growing and harvest straight from your windowsill! How to Grow Leeks prefer rich, well-draining soil with a pH between 6.0 and 7.0. They need a minimum of eight hours of bright sunlight daily. Many varieties require a long growing period of 120 to 150 days, but newer cultivars may require as few as 90 days to mature. With a shallow root system, leeks need about an inch of water per week, so track your local precipitation rates and irrigate if it doesn’t rain. Mulch the growing area well. The white part of the leek is the most desirable for cooking and eating, being tender and less fibrous than the green. Therefore, gardeners often hill the dirt around the shaft to prevent that part of the plant from making chlorophyll and turning green. Alternatively, you can fashion a sheath out of cardboard or other porous material to wrap around the stalk as it grows. It needs to be opaque but still allow for some airflow, otherwise the leek may start to rot. About midway through the growing season, side dress the growing area about six inches away from the plants with a balanced fertilizer such as a 10-10-10 NPK mix at a rate of one cup for 10 feet of row. Leeks are highly tolerant of cold. Depending on the variety, they can take temperatures down to 5°F or so, and a frost or two is said to improve their flavor. But you definitely want to pull them before the ground freezes. If you live in a place where you can overwinter leeks, consider that they will probably bolt in spring if they’ve been exposed to frosts and then the weather warms up. If it’s their second year of life, they’ll bolt regardless, being biennial. So pull them before the weather gets too warm, or let a few bolt for seed saving purposes. The round purple, lavender, or pink flowers are quite attractive, and after they go to seed, you can harvest and save the seeds for planting next year. To do this, pluck the pods when they start to crack open. Place them in paper bags to dry, then shake the bags to separate the seeds from the chaff. If you store the seeds in a cool, dry place, they should remain viable for up to three years. You can eat the leeks after they bolt, but they’re not very good. Cultivars to Select As referenced throughout this article, a number of leek cultivars are available, all with various enticing qualities. American Flag This heirloom variety is hardy and will overwinter in mild climates. ‘American Flag’ grows to 20 inches tall and 1.5-2 inches thick. It has thick, blue-green leaves. ‘American Flag’ ‘American Flag’ matures in 130 days. Find seeds in a variety of quantities from Eden Brothers. Early Giant Good for planting in early spring, ‘Early Giant’ has a shorter maturation period of 98 days. This heirloom variety is known for its consistent size and great flavor. ‘Early Giant’ Eden Brothers sells a number of quantities of seeds of this variety. Autumn Giant Leek This tall heirloom grows as tall as 30 inches, with stalks that can reach three inches wide at maturity. ‘Autumn Giant’ is ready to harvest in 135 to 150 days. ‘Autumn Giant’ Get packages of about 50 seeds from Frozen Seed Capsules via Amazon. Lancelot This adaptable hybrid grows a 12- to 14-inch white shafts with dark blue-green flags. ‘Lancelot’ grows well in many zones, and matures in 75 days. ‘Lancelot’ Packages of 72 seedlings of this cultivar are available from Burpee. Pests and Disease Leeks, unfortunately, are impacted by a few insects and several types of fungi. Insects Keep an eye out for these insect pests: Leafminers (Lyriomyza spp.) These tiny, 1/8-inch flies are generally yellow, dark gray, or black, or a combination thereof. They leave thin, white, winding trails on leaves. You might also see white blotches on leaves. The fly lays its eggs in the leaf, and the larvae feed on the leaf’s interior. Use neem oil to get rid of these pests. Find more tips on leafminer control here. Onion Maggots (Delia antiqua) The tiny white larvae of this quarter-inch gray fly emerge from eggs laid on leek leaves or in the soil, and then bore into the plant. They grow to about half an inch long, using their feeding hooks to tear up the plant. This is damaging in and of itself, and the damaged plants are also more susceptible to other pathogens, such as bacteria. Leaves of affected plants turn yellow and the stalk rots. Prevention – such as through crop rotation – is the best way to prevent an infestation. One a plant is impacted, it must be dug up and destroyed. Thrips (Thrips tabaci) Yellow or black dots on plants may be a symptom of thrips. Another sign is leaves that turn silver or gray, or leaves that twist and die. Thrips are small winged insects that damage plants by sucking fluids out. Control them with insecticidal soap, neem oil, or spinosa, a biological pesticide. Read more about thrip identification and control here. Disease Leeks may be plagued by a number of types of fungi, all of which can be treated with a commercial fungicide. Good airflow and proper planting techniques and watering practices, as well as diligently ridding the beds of errant weeds, can help to protect your plants. Here are the primary culprits: Rust (Phragmidium spp.) Rust is a fungal disease that presents as orange pustules on leaves. Botrytis Leaf Blight (Botrytis squamosa) This fungus is characterized by small white lesions ringed in light green. Damping Off (Fusarium spp.) Seedlings that grow slowly and then wilt and die may be a sign of damping off. Root tips of affected plants may be tan, yellow, black, or pink. Learn more about this disease here. Downy Mildew (Peronospora parasitica) Purplish-gray fuzzy growth on leaf surfaces may be a sign of downy mildew. You may see pale spots on leaves, followed by widespread leaf yellowing and collapsed leaf tips. Pink Root (Phoma terrestris) Stunted plants with undersized shafts may be a sign of pink root, which also causes roots to turn light pink and then darken to purple. The roots may be transparent and water-soaked. Purple Blotch (Alternaria porri) Purple blotch presents on the flag or stalk with small, water-soaked lesions with white centers. These blotches enlarge and become brown or purple, with yellow edges. Foliage may die. White Rot (Sclerotinia cepivorum) White rot can stunt growth, causing yellowing of leaves, and eventual death of all foliage. You may see a fluffy white growth at the base of the plant. Harvesting Most leek varieties are fully developed when the stems grow to be a minimum of one inch in width. Some smaller varieties, however, mature at one-half to three-fourths of an inch in diameter. Check your seed packets so you know what to look for. A good quality leek should have a firm, white shaft that’s more than three inches long. Leeks can be harvested whenever they’ve reached their desired size. Leek tops do not die back as the plant matures, unlike with onions and shallots, so you can’t rely on that marker. Simply twist and – gently – pull leeks to harvest them. Or you can dig around them if the soil is dry, and lift them up. You can trim flags to a more manageable length for storage, if you like. See our guide to how to harvest leeks for seven expert tips. Preserving Store leeks in an airtight plastic bag in the crisper drawer of the refrigerator; they’ll stay fresh for about a week. In really cold areas, there’s a longer-term storage option: After harvest, leave the roots attached, but cut the flag back to about an inch. Place stems root-end down in a box and fill it with sand, vermiculite, or sawdust. Keep the packing moist, but not waterlogged, and store in a cool place, where they will keep for about eight weeks. You can freeze these veggies too. Wash them thoroughly (more on this shortly), slice them, and blanch for one minute in boiling water. Blanching helps vegetables to retain their color and nutrients, and it destroys enzymes that can cause spoilage. Drain the blanched slices, dry them, and place them in zip-top plastic freezer bags for storage. They should keep for three to four months. It’s Smelling a Bit Strong in Here Most gardeners who’ve grown leeks consider them to be fairly easy to grow. As long as you give them nutritious soil, some fertilizer, and sufficient water, they should do well in your garden. You’ll also want to keep an eye out for pests and fungi. If you’re not terribly familiar with leeks as an ingredient in your cooking, try expanding your kitchen repertoire with this delicious allium. What better way to do that is there than by growing your own? Are you an experienced leek grower? Please share your wisdom in the comments below. While we’re exploring the alliums, why not check out a few onion articles? Give these a read next: Photos by Fanny Slater and Raquel Smith © Ask the Experts, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. See our TOS for more details. Originally published December 3rd, 2019. Last updated January 19th, 2025. Product photos via Burpee, Eden Brothers, Seeds4planting, and Amazon. Uncredited photos: Shutterstock. Additional writing and editing by Clare Groom and Allison Sidhu. !function(f,b,e,v,n,t,s) if(f.fbq)return;n=f.fbq=function()n.callMethod? n.callMethod.apply(n,arguments):n.queue.push(arguments); if(!f._fbq)f._fbq=n;n.push=n;n.loaded=!0;n.version='2.0'; n.queue=[];t=b.createElement(e);t.async=!0; t.src=v;s=b.getElementsByTagName(e)[0]; s.parentNode.insertBefore(t,s)(window, document,'script', ' fbq('init', '176410929431717'); fbq('track', 'PageView'); Source link

[monaleen101]

Allium ampeloprasum var. porrum The leek looks like a steroid-fueled green onion. It’s considerably fatter than a scallion, at one to three inches wide, and about twice as tall. But it totally wears the same outfit, albeit in a bigger size. It is in fact related to onions, offering a mild, sweet, onion-like flavor that is used to season any number of dishes – more on that later in this article. Leeks are a cool-weather crop, with an ideal growing-temperature range of 55 to 75°F. Like collard greens, they appreciate a frost or two for better flavor development. We link to vendors to help you find relevant products. If you buy from one of our links, we may earn a commission. Most varieties are hardy to Zones 7 or 8, though some types can tolerate cooler weather. We’ll offer some specifics shortly. The plant is a biennial, though damage and dieback due to a hard freeze will make it an annual. The topmost, leafy green part of the plant is called the “flag,” and the white part is usually called the “stem” or “stalk,” though botanically speaking these are misnomers. The white part of the plant is technically a tight bundle of leaf sheaths. Ready to dive in to the fascinating world of the leek? Here’s what’s to come in this article: It’s time to get growing! Leeks are native to the eastern Mediterranean and the Middle East. They were cultivated in Egypt more than 4,000 years ago, and enjoyed by the workers who built the pyramids. As well as being a staple in the diet of ordinary people, apparently the emperor Nero was fond of a leek or two, eating them almost daily to strengthen his voice. Quick Look Common name(s): Leek Plant type: Biennial vegetable Hardiness (USDA Zone): 5-10 Native to: Mediterranean Season: Spring Exposure: Full sun Soil type: Rich and well draining Soil pH: 6.0-7, slightly acidic to neutral Time to maturity: 80-150 days, depends on variety Spacing: 6 inches Planting depth: Seeds -1/8 inch, seedlings – half the depth Mature size: 6-12 inches wide x 2-3 feet high Water Needs: 1 inch per week Taxonomy Order: Apiales Family: Amaryllidaceae Genus: Allium Species: A. ampeloprasum var. porrum Cultivars: various The Greek physician Hippocrates is thought to have prescribed this vegetable as a cure for nose bleeds. Leeks make an appearance in what is regarded as the world’s first cookbook, “Apicius de re Coquinaria,” (“On the Subject of Cooking”) compiled in fourth- to fifth-century Rome. The recipe collection includes several for leeks, most of which showcase it not as a seasoning for other foods, but as a vegetable to be enjoyed on its own. It is thought that the vegetable spread across Europe and to the British Isles by the marauding Romans. European settlers brought the vegetable to North America. For reasons that are not completely understood, the vegetable is today the national emblem of Wales and is worn proudly on St. David’s Day – a holiday to honor the country’s patron saint. Propagation You can grow leeks from seed or, like the pineapple, propagate it from kitchen scraps. From Seed Start seeds indoors in pots or seed trays. Scatter seeds on top of a rich potting mix, and then cover them with a scant dusting of soil. You can expect germination within five to 12 days. Or you can direct sow outdoors, as long as air temperatures are below 77 and above 55°F. The optimal temperature for germination is between 70 and 77°F. Seedlings will be ready to transplant when they’re six to eight inches tall. Harden them off by moving them outdoors for a few hours each day, gradually lengthening the time spent outside each day for about a week. When you’re ready to transplant, remove seedlings from the soil and gently separate them. Create narrow holes in your prepared bed that are about half as deep as the seedlings, from the root to the top of the stem. The holes should be narrow, not more than an inch in diameter, and can be made by poking a dowel or ‘dibber’ into the ground – as opposed to digging a hole with a garden spade. They should be spaced 6 inches apart in rows that are one foot apart. Set the seedlings into the holes; some of the green part may be below the soil surface, and that’s okay for this plant. Fill the holes with water, but do not backfill the holes with soil. The soil will gradually crumble in, but it will be loose, allowing the leeks to swell to a plump diameter as they grow. From Scraps You can also start a new plant from the rooted bit at the end of a leek stalk. Simply cut off and use the top, leaving at least an inch of stalk at the end, with the roots intact. Place this bit in a cup, add water to cover about half the stalk, put it in a sunny window, and soon you will have more greens shooting up. You can also use toothpicks to suspend the cutting in water, as you would with an avocado pit. Once the top part has started to show new growth of two to three inches, you can plant it out in the garden. Alternatively, keep it in the water to continue growing and harvest straight from your windowsill! How to Grow Leeks prefer rich, well-draining soil with a pH between 6.0 and 7.0. They need a minimum of eight hours of bright sunlight daily. Many varieties require a long growing period of 120 to 150 days, but newer cultivars may require as few as 90 days to mature. With a shallow root system, leeks need about an inch of water per week, so track your local precipitation rates and irrigate if it doesn’t rain. Mulch the growing area well. The white part of the leek is the most desirable for cooking and eating, being tender and less fibrous than the green. Therefore, gardeners often hill the dirt around the shaft to prevent that part of the plant from making chlorophyll and turning green. Alternatively, you can fashion a sheath out of cardboard or other porous material to wrap around the stalk as it grows. It needs to be opaque but still allow for some airflow, otherwise the leek may start to rot. About midway through the growing season, side dress the growing area about six inches away from the plants with a balanced fertilizer such as a 10-10-10 NPK mix at a rate of one cup for 10 feet of row. Leeks are highly tolerant of cold. Depending on the variety, they can take temperatures down to 5°F or so, and a frost or two is said to improve their flavor. But you definitely want to pull them before the ground freezes. If you live in a place where you can overwinter leeks, consider that they will probably bolt in spring if they’ve been exposed to frosts and then the weather warms up. If it’s their second year of life, they’ll bolt regardless, being biennial. So pull them before the weather gets too warm, or let a few bolt for seed saving purposes. The round purple, lavender, or pink flowers are quite attractive, and after they go to seed, you can harvest and save the seeds for planting next year. To do this, pluck the pods when they start to crack open. Place them in paper bags to dry, then shake the bags to separate the seeds from the chaff. If you store the seeds in a cool, dry place, they should remain viable for up to three years. You can eat the leeks after they bolt, but they’re not very good. Cultivars to Select As referenced throughout this article, a number of leek cultivars are available, all with various enticing qualities. American Flag This heirloom variety is hardy and will overwinter in mild climates. ‘American Flag’ grows to 20 inches tall and 1.5-2 inches thick. It has thick, blue-green leaves. ‘American Flag’ ‘American Flag’ matures in 130 days. Find seeds in a variety of quantities from Eden Brothers. Early Giant Good for planting in early spring, ‘Early Giant’ has a shorter maturation period of 98 days. This heirloom variety is known for its consistent size and great flavor. ‘Early Giant’ Eden Brothers sells a number of quantities of seeds of this variety. Autumn Giant Leek This tall heirloom grows as tall as 30 inches, with stalks that can reach three inches wide at maturity. ‘Autumn Giant’ is ready to harvest in 135 to 150 days. ‘Autumn Giant’ Get packages of about 50 seeds from Frozen Seed Capsules via Amazon. Lancelot This adaptable hybrid grows a 12- to 14-inch white shafts with dark blue-green flags. ‘Lancelot’ grows well in many zones, and matures in 75 days. ‘Lancelot’ Packages of 72 seedlings of this cultivar are available from Burpee. Pests and Disease Leeks, unfortunately, are impacted by a few insects and several types of fungi. Insects Keep an eye out for these insect pests: Leafminers (Lyriomyza spp.) These tiny, 1/8-inch flies are generally yellow, dark gray, or black, or a combination thereof. They leave thin, white, winding trails on leaves. You might also see white blotches on leaves. The fly lays its eggs in the leaf, and the larvae feed on the leaf’s interior. Use neem oil to get rid of these pests. Find more tips on leafminer control here. Onion Maggots (Delia antiqua) The tiny white larvae of this quarter-inch gray fly emerge from eggs laid on leek leaves or in the soil, and then bore into the plant. They grow to about half an inch long, using their feeding hooks to tear up the plant. This is damaging in and of itself, and the damaged plants are also more susceptible to other pathogens, such as bacteria. Leaves of affected plants turn yellow and the stalk rots. Prevention – such as through crop rotation – is the best way to prevent an infestation. One a plant is impacted, it must be dug up and destroyed. Thrips (Thrips tabaci) Yellow or black dots on plants may be a symptom of thrips. Another sign is leaves that turn silver or gray, or leaves that twist and die. Thrips are small winged insects that damage plants by sucking fluids out. Control them with insecticidal soap, neem oil, or spinosa, a biological pesticide. Read more about thrip identification and control here. Disease Leeks may be plagued by a number of types of fungi, all of which can be treated with a commercial fungicide. Good airflow and proper planting techniques and watering practices, as well as diligently ridding the beds of errant weeds, can help to protect your plants. Here are the primary culprits: Rust (Phragmidium spp.) Rust is a fungal disease that presents as orange pustules on leaves. Botrytis Leaf Blight (Botrytis squamosa) This fungus is characterized by small white lesions ringed in light green. Damping Off (Fusarium spp.) Seedlings that grow slowly and then wilt and die may be a sign of damping off. Root tips of affected plants may be tan, yellow, black, or pink. Learn more about this disease here. Downy Mildew (Peronospora parasitica) Purplish-gray fuzzy growth on leaf surfaces may be a sign of downy mildew. You may see pale spots on leaves, followed by widespread leaf yellowing and collapsed leaf tips. Pink Root (Phoma terrestris) Stunted plants with undersized shafts may be a sign of pink root, which also causes roots to turn light pink and then darken to purple. The roots may be transparent and water-soaked. Purple Blotch (Alternaria porri) Purple blotch presents on the flag or stalk with small, water-soaked lesions with white centers. These blotches enlarge and become brown or purple, with yellow edges. Foliage may die. White Rot (Sclerotinia cepivorum) White rot can stunt growth, causing yellowing of leaves, and eventual death of all foliage. You may see a fluffy white growth at the base of the plant. Harvesting Most leek varieties are fully developed when the stems grow to be a minimum of one inch in width. Some smaller varieties, however, mature at one-half to three-fourths of an inch in diameter. Check your seed packets so you know what to look for. A good quality leek should have a firm, white shaft that’s more than three inches long. Leeks can be harvested whenever they’ve reached their desired size. Leek tops do not die back as the plant matures, unlike with onions and shallots, so you can’t rely on that marker. Simply twist and – gently – pull leeks to harvest them. Or you can dig around them if the soil is dry, and lift them up. You can trim flags to a more manageable length for storage, if you like. See our guide to how to harvest leeks for seven expert tips. Preserving Store leeks in an airtight plastic bag in the crisper drawer of the refrigerator; they’ll stay fresh for about a week. In really cold areas, there’s a longer-term storage option: After harvest, leave the roots attached, but cut the flag back to about an inch. Place stems root-end down in a box and fill it with sand, vermiculite, or sawdust. Keep the packing moist, but not waterlogged, and store in a cool place, where they will keep for about eight weeks. You can freeze these veggies too. Wash them thoroughly (more on this shortly), slice them, and blanch for one minute in boiling water. Blanching helps vegetables to retain their color and nutrients, and it destroys enzymes that can cause spoilage. Drain the blanched slices, dry them, and place them in zip-top plastic freezer bags for storage. They should keep for three to four months. It’s Smelling a Bit Strong in Here Most gardeners who’ve grown leeks consider them to be fairly easy to grow. As long as you give them nutritious soil, some fertilizer, and sufficient water, they should do well in your garden. You’ll also want to keep an eye out for pests and fungi. If you’re not terribly familiar with leeks as an ingredient in your cooking, try expanding your kitchen repertoire with this delicious allium. What better way to do that is there than by growing your own? Are you an experienced leek grower? Please share your wisdom in the comments below. While we’re exploring the alliums, why not check out a few onion articles? Give these a read next: Photos by Fanny Slater and Raquel Smith © Ask the Experts, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. See our TOS for more details. Originally published December 3rd, 2019. Last updated January 19th, 2025. Product photos via Burpee, Eden Brothers, Seeds4planting, and Amazon. Uncredited photos: Shutterstock. Additional writing and editing by Clare Groom and Allison Sidhu. !function(f,b,e,v,n,t,s) if(f.fbq)return;n=f.fbq=function()n.callMethod? n.callMethod.apply(n,arguments):n.queue.push(arguments); if(!f._fbq)f._fbq=n;n.push=n;n.loaded=!0;n.version='2.0'; n.queue=[];t=b.createElement(e);t.async=!0; t.src=v;s=b.getElementsByTagName(e)[0]; s.parentNode.insertBefore(t,s)(window, document,'script', ' fbq('init', '176410929431717'); fbq('track', 'PageView'); Source link

[iamownerofme]

Allium ampeloprasum var. porrum The leek looks like a steroid-fueled green onion. It’s considerably fatter than a scallion, at one to three inches wide, and about twice as tall. But it totally wears the same outfit, albeit in a bigger size. It is in fact related to onions, offering a mild, sweet, onion-like flavor that is used to season any number of dishes – more on that later in this article. Leeks are a cool-weather crop, with an ideal growing-temperature range of 55 to 75°F. Like collard greens, they appreciate a frost or two for better flavor development. We link to vendors to help you find relevant products. If you buy from one of our links, we may earn a commission. Most varieties are hardy to Zones 7 or 8, though some types can tolerate cooler weather. We’ll offer some specifics shortly. The plant is a biennial, though damage and dieback due to a hard freeze will make it an annual. The topmost, leafy green part of the plant is called the “flag,” and the white part is usually called the “stem” or “stalk,” though botanically speaking these are misnomers. The white part of the plant is technically a tight bundle of leaf sheaths. Ready to dive in to the fascinating world of the leek? Here’s what’s to come in this article: It’s time to get growing! Leeks are native to the eastern Mediterranean and the Middle East. They were cultivated in Egypt more than 4,000 years ago, and enjoyed by the workers who built the pyramids. As well as being a staple in the diet of ordinary people, apparently the emperor Nero was fond of a leek or two, eating them almost daily to strengthen his voice. Quick Look Common name(s): Leek Plant type: Biennial vegetable Hardiness (USDA Zone): 5-10 Native to: Mediterranean Season: Spring Exposure: Full sun Soil type: Rich and well draining Soil pH: 6.0-7, slightly acidic to neutral Time to maturity: 80-150 days, depends on variety Spacing: 6 inches Planting depth: Seeds -1/8 inch, seedlings – half the depth Mature size: 6-12 inches wide x 2-3 feet high Water Needs: 1 inch per week Taxonomy Order: Apiales Family: Amaryllidaceae Genus: Allium Species: A. ampeloprasum var. porrum Cultivars: various The Greek physician Hippocrates is thought to have prescribed this vegetable as a cure for nose bleeds. Leeks make an appearance in what is regarded as the world’s first cookbook, “Apicius de re Coquinaria,” (“On the Subject of Cooking”) compiled in fourth- to fifth-century Rome. The recipe collection includes several for leeks, most of which showcase it not as a seasoning for other foods, but as a vegetable to be enjoyed on its own. It is thought that the vegetable spread across Europe and to the British Isles by the marauding Romans. European settlers brought the vegetable to North America. For reasons that are not completely understood, the vegetable is today the national emblem of Wales and is worn proudly on St. David’s Day – a holiday to honor the country’s patron saint. Propagation You can grow leeks from seed or, like the pineapple, propagate it from kitchen scraps. From Seed Start seeds indoors in pots or seed trays. Scatter seeds on top of a rich potting mix, and then cover them with a scant dusting of soil. You can expect germination within five to 12 days. Or you can direct sow outdoors, as long as air temperatures are below 77 and above 55°F. The optimal temperature for germination is between 70 and 77°F. Seedlings will be ready to transplant when they’re six to eight inches tall. Harden them off by moving them outdoors for a few hours each day, gradually lengthening the time spent outside each day for about a week. When you’re ready to transplant, remove seedlings from the soil and gently separate them. Create narrow holes in your prepared bed that are about half as deep as the seedlings, from the root to the top of the stem. The holes should be narrow, not more than an inch in diameter, and can be made by poking a dowel or ‘dibber’ into the ground – as opposed to digging a hole with a garden spade. They should be spaced 6 inches apart in rows that are one foot apart. Set the seedlings into the holes; some of the green part may be below the soil surface, and that’s okay for this plant. Fill the holes with water, but do not backfill the holes with soil. The soil will gradually crumble in, but it will be loose, allowing the leeks to swell to a plump diameter as they grow. From Scraps You can also start a new plant from the rooted bit at the end of a leek stalk. Simply cut off and use the top, leaving at least an inch of stalk at the end, with the roots intact. Place this bit in a cup, add water to cover about half the stalk, put it in a sunny window, and soon you will have more greens shooting up. You can also use toothpicks to suspend the cutting in water, as you would with an avocado pit. Once the top part has started to show new growth of two to three inches, you can plant it out in the garden. Alternatively, keep it in the water to continue growing and harvest straight from your windowsill! How to Grow Leeks prefer rich, well-draining soil with a pH between 6.0 and 7.0. They need a minimum of eight hours of bright sunlight daily. Many varieties require a long growing period of 120 to 150 days, but newer cultivars may require as few as 90 days to mature. With a shallow root system, leeks need about an inch of water per week, so track your local precipitation rates and irrigate if it doesn’t rain. Mulch the growing area well. The white part of the leek is the most desirable for cooking and eating, being tender and less fibrous than the green. Therefore, gardeners often hill the dirt around the shaft to prevent that part of the plant from making chlorophyll and turning green. Alternatively, you can fashion a sheath out of cardboard or other porous material to wrap around the stalk as it grows. It needs to be opaque but still allow for some airflow, otherwise the leek may start to rot. About midway through the growing season, side dress the growing area about six inches away from the plants with a balanced fertilizer such as a 10-10-10 NPK mix at a rate of one cup for 10 feet of row. Leeks are highly tolerant of cold. Depending on the variety, they can take temperatures down to 5°F or so, and a frost or two is said to improve their flavor. But you definitely want to pull them before the ground freezes. If you live in a place where you can overwinter leeks, consider that they will probably bolt in spring if they’ve been exposed to frosts and then the weather warms up. If it’s their second year of life, they’ll bolt regardless, being biennial. So pull them before the weather gets too warm, or let a few bolt for seed saving purposes. The round purple, lavender, or pink flowers are quite attractive, and after they go to seed, you can harvest and save the seeds for planting next year. To do this, pluck the pods when they start to crack open. Place them in paper bags to dry, then shake the bags to separate the seeds from the chaff. If you store the seeds in a cool, dry place, they should remain viable for up to three years. You can eat the leeks after they bolt, but they’re not very good. Cultivars to Select As referenced throughout this article, a number of leek cultivars are available, all with various enticing qualities. American Flag This heirloom variety is hardy and will overwinter in mild climates. ‘American Flag’ grows to 20 inches tall and 1.5-2 inches thick. It has thick, blue-green leaves. ‘American Flag’ ‘American Flag’ matures in 130 days. Find seeds in a variety of quantities from Eden Brothers. Early Giant Good for planting in early spring, ‘Early Giant’ has a shorter maturation period of 98 days. This heirloom variety is known for its consistent size and great flavor. ‘Early Giant’ Eden Brothers sells a number of quantities of seeds of this variety. Autumn Giant Leek This tall heirloom grows as tall as 30 inches, with stalks that can reach three inches wide at maturity. ‘Autumn Giant’ is ready to harvest in 135 to 150 days. ‘Autumn Giant’ Get packages of about 50 seeds from Frozen Seed Capsules via Amazon. Lancelot This adaptable hybrid grows a 12- to 14-inch white shafts with dark blue-green flags. ‘Lancelot’ grows well in many zones, and matures in 75 days. ‘Lancelot’ Packages of 72 seedlings of this cultivar are available from Burpee. Pests and Disease Leeks, unfortunately, are impacted by a few insects and several types of fungi. Insects Keep an eye out for these insect pests: Leafminers (Lyriomyza spp.) These tiny, 1/8-inch flies are generally yellow, dark gray, or black, or a combination thereof. They leave thin, white, winding trails on leaves. You might also see white blotches on leaves. The fly lays its eggs in the leaf, and the larvae feed on the leaf’s interior. Use neem oil to get rid of these pests. Find more tips on leafminer control here. Onion Maggots (Delia antiqua) The tiny white larvae of this quarter-inch gray fly emerge from eggs laid on leek leaves or in the soil, and then bore into the plant. They grow to about half an inch long, using their feeding hooks to tear up the plant. This is damaging in and of itself, and the damaged plants are also more susceptible to other pathogens, such as bacteria. Leaves of affected plants turn yellow and the stalk rots. Prevention – such as through crop rotation – is the best way to prevent an infestation. One a plant is impacted, it must be dug up and destroyed. Thrips (Thrips tabaci) Yellow or black dots on plants may be a symptom of thrips. Another sign is leaves that turn silver or gray, or leaves that twist and die. Thrips are small winged insects that damage plants by sucking fluids out. Control them with insecticidal soap, neem oil, or spinosa, a biological pesticide. Read more about thrip identification and control here. Disease Leeks may be plagued by a number of types of fungi, all of which can be treated with a commercial fungicide. Good airflow and proper planting techniques and watering practices, as well as diligently ridding the beds of errant weeds, can help to protect your plants. Here are the primary culprits: Rust (Phragmidium spp.) Rust is a fungal disease that presents as orange pustules on leaves. Botrytis Leaf Blight (Botrytis squamosa) This fungus is characterized by small white lesions ringed in light green. Damping Off (Fusarium spp.) Seedlings that grow slowly and then wilt and die may be a sign of damping off. Root tips of affected plants may be tan, yellow, black, or pink. Learn more about this disease here. Downy Mildew (Peronospora parasitica) Purplish-gray fuzzy growth on leaf surfaces may be a sign of downy mildew. You may see pale spots on leaves, followed by widespread leaf yellowing and collapsed leaf tips. Pink Root (Phoma terrestris) Stunted plants with undersized shafts may be a sign of pink root, which also causes roots to turn light pink and then darken to purple. The roots may be transparent and water-soaked. Purple Blotch (Alternaria porri) Purple blotch presents on the flag or stalk with small, water-soaked lesions with white centers. These blotches enlarge and become brown or purple, with yellow edges. Foliage may die. White Rot (Sclerotinia cepivorum) White rot can stunt growth, causing yellowing of leaves, and eventual death of all foliage. You may see a fluffy white growth at the base of the plant. Harvesting Most leek varieties are fully developed when the stems grow to be a minimum of one inch in width. Some smaller varieties, however, mature at one-half to three-fourths of an inch in diameter. Check your seed packets so you know what to look for. A good quality leek should have a firm, white shaft that’s more than three inches long. Leeks can be harvested whenever they’ve reached their desired size. Leek tops do not die back as the plant matures, unlike with onions and shallots, so you can’t rely on that marker. Simply twist and – gently – pull leeks to harvest them. Or you can dig around them if the soil is dry, and lift them up. You can trim flags to a more manageable length for storage, if you like. See our guide to how to harvest leeks for seven expert tips. Preserving Store leeks in an airtight plastic bag in the crisper drawer of the refrigerator; they’ll stay fresh for about a week. In really cold areas, there’s a longer-term storage option: After harvest, leave the roots attached, but cut the flag back to about an inch. Place stems root-end down in a box and fill it with sand, vermiculite, or sawdust. Keep the packing moist, but not waterlogged, and store in a cool place, where they will keep for about eight weeks. You can freeze these veggies too. Wash them thoroughly (more on this shortly), slice them, and blanch for one minute in boiling water. Blanching helps vegetables to retain their color and nutrients, and it destroys enzymes that can cause spoilage. Drain the blanched slices, dry them, and place them in zip-top plastic freezer bags for storage. They should keep for three to four months. It’s Smelling a Bit Strong in Here Most gardeners who’ve grown leeks consider them to be fairly easy to grow. As long as you give them nutritious soil, some fertilizer, and sufficient water, they should do well in your garden. You’ll also want to keep an eye out for pests and fungi. If you’re not terribly familiar with leeks as an ingredient in your cooking, try expanding your kitchen repertoire with this delicious allium. What better way to do that is there than by growing your own? Are you an experienced leek grower? Please share your wisdom in the comments below. While we’re exploring the alliums, why not check out a few onion articles? Give these a read next: Photos by Fanny Slater and Raquel Smith © Ask the Experts, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. See our TOS for more details. Originally published December 3rd, 2019. Last updated January 19th, 2025. Product photos via Burpee, Eden Brothers, Seeds4planting, and Amazon. Uncredited photos: Shutterstock. Additional writing and editing by Clare Groom and Allison Sidhu. !function(f,b,e,v,n,t,s) if(f.fbq)return;n=f.fbq=function()n.callMethod? n.callMethod.apply(n,arguments):n.queue.push(arguments); if(!f._fbq)f._fbq=n;n.push=n;n.loaded=!0;n.version='2.0'; n.queue=[];t=b.createElement(e);t.async=!0; t.src=v;s=b.getElementsByTagName(e)[0]; s.parentNode.insertBefore(t,s)(window, document,'script', ' fbq('init', '176410929431717'); fbq('track', 'PageView'); Source link

[shelyold]

Allium ampeloprasum var. porrum The leek looks like a steroid-fueled green onion. It’s considerably fatter than a scallion, at one to three inches wide, and about twice as tall. But it totally wears the same outfit, albeit in a bigger size. It is in fact related to onions, offering a mild, sweet, onion-like flavor that is used to season any number of dishes – more on that later in this article. Leeks are a cool-weather crop, with an ideal growing-temperature range of 55 to 75°F. Like collard greens, they appreciate a frost or two for better flavor development. We link to vendors to help you find relevant products. If you buy from one of our links, we may earn a commission. Most varieties are hardy to Zones 7 or 8, though some types can tolerate cooler weather. We’ll offer some specifics shortly. The plant is a biennial, though damage and dieback due to a hard freeze will make it an annual. The topmost, leafy green part of the plant is called the “flag,” and the white part is usually called the “stem” or “stalk,” though botanically speaking these are misnomers. The white part of the plant is technically a tight bundle of leaf sheaths. Ready to dive in to the fascinating world of the leek? Here’s what’s to come in this article: It’s time to get growing! Leeks are native to the eastern Mediterranean and the Middle East. They were cultivated in Egypt more than 4,000 years ago, and enjoyed by the workers who built the pyramids. As well as being a staple in the diet of ordinary people, apparently the emperor Nero was fond of a leek or two, eating them almost daily to strengthen his voice. Quick Look Common name(s): Leek Plant type: Biennial vegetable Hardiness (USDA Zone): 5-10 Native to: Mediterranean Season: Spring Exposure: Full sun Soil type: Rich and well draining Soil pH: 6.0-7, slightly acidic to neutral Time to maturity: 80-150 days, depends on variety Spacing: 6 inches Planting depth: Seeds -1/8 inch, seedlings – half the depth Mature size: 6-12 inches wide x 2-3 feet high Water Needs: 1 inch per week Taxonomy Order: Apiales Family: Amaryllidaceae Genus: Allium Species: A. ampeloprasum var. porrum Cultivars: various The Greek physician Hippocrates is thought to have prescribed this vegetable as a cure for nose bleeds. Leeks make an appearance in what is regarded as the world’s first cookbook, “Apicius de re Coquinaria,” (“On the Subject of Cooking”) compiled in fourth- to fifth-century Rome. The recipe collection includes several for leeks, most of which showcase it not as a seasoning for other foods, but as a vegetable to be enjoyed on its own. It is thought that the vegetable spread across Europe and to the British Isles by the marauding Romans. European settlers brought the vegetable to North America. For reasons that are not completely understood, the vegetable is today the national emblem of Wales and is worn proudly on St. David’s Day – a holiday to honor the country’s patron saint. Propagation You can grow leeks from seed or, like the pineapple, propagate it from kitchen scraps. From Seed Start seeds indoors in pots or seed trays. Scatter seeds on top of a rich potting mix, and then cover them with a scant dusting of soil. You can expect germination within five to 12 days. Or you can direct sow outdoors, as long as air temperatures are below 77 and above 55°F. The optimal temperature for germination is between 70 and 77°F. Seedlings will be ready to transplant when they’re six to eight inches tall. Harden them off by moving them outdoors for a few hours each day, gradually lengthening the time spent outside each day for about a week. When you’re ready to transplant, remove seedlings from the soil and gently separate them. Create narrow holes in your prepared bed that are about half as deep as the seedlings, from the root to the top of the stem. The holes should be narrow, not more than an inch in diameter, and can be made by poking a dowel or ‘dibber’ into the ground – as opposed to digging a hole with a garden spade. They should be spaced 6 inches apart in rows that are one foot apart. Set the seedlings into the holes; some of the green part may be below the soil surface, and that’s okay for this plant. Fill the holes with water, but do not backfill the holes with soil. The soil will gradually crumble in, but it will be loose, allowing the leeks to swell to a plump diameter as they grow. From Scraps You can also start a new plant from the rooted bit at the end of a leek stalk. Simply cut off and use the top, leaving at least an inch of stalk at the end, with the roots intact. Place this bit in a cup, add water to cover about half the stalk, put it in a sunny window, and soon you will have more greens shooting up. You can also use toothpicks to suspend the cutting in water, as you would with an avocado pit. Once the top part has started to show new growth of two to three inches, you can plant it out in the garden. Alternatively, keep it in the water to continue growing and harvest straight from your windowsill! How to Grow Leeks prefer rich, well-draining soil with a pH between 6.0 and 7.0. They need a minimum of eight hours of bright sunlight daily. Many varieties require a long growing period of 120 to 150 days, but newer cultivars may require as few as 90 days to mature. With a shallow root system, leeks need about an inch of water per week, so track your local precipitation rates and irrigate if it doesn’t rain. Mulch the growing area well. The white part of the leek is the most desirable for cooking and eating, being tender and less fibrous than the green. Therefore, gardeners often hill the dirt around the shaft to prevent that part of the plant from making chlorophyll and turning green. Alternatively, you can fashion a sheath out of cardboard or other porous material to wrap around the stalk as it grows. It needs to be opaque but still allow for some airflow, otherwise the leek may start to rot. About midway through the growing season, side dress the growing area about six inches away from the plants with a balanced fertilizer such as a 10-10-10 NPK mix at a rate of one cup for 10 feet of row. Leeks are highly tolerant of cold. Depending on the variety, they can take temperatures down to 5°F or so, and a frost or two is said to improve their flavor. But you definitely want to pull them before the ground freezes. If you live in a place where you can overwinter leeks, consider that they will probably bolt in spring if they’ve been exposed to frosts and then the weather warms up. If it’s their second year of life, they’ll bolt regardless, being biennial. So pull them before the weather gets too warm, or let a few bolt for seed saving purposes. The round purple, lavender, or pink flowers are quite attractive, and after they go to seed, you can harvest and save the seeds for planting next year. To do this, pluck the pods when they start to crack open. Place them in paper bags to dry, then shake the bags to separate the seeds from the chaff. If you store the seeds in a cool, dry place, they should remain viable for up to three years. You can eat the leeks after they bolt, but they’re not very good. Cultivars to Select As referenced throughout this article, a number of leek cultivars are available, all with various enticing qualities. American Flag This heirloom variety is hardy and will overwinter in mild climates. ‘American Flag’ grows to 20 inches tall and 1.5-2 inches thick. It has thick, blue-green leaves. ‘American Flag’ ‘American Flag’ matures in 130 days. Find seeds in a variety of quantities from Eden Brothers. Early Giant Good for planting in early spring, ‘Early Giant’ has a shorter maturation period of 98 days. This heirloom variety is known for its consistent size and great flavor. ‘Early Giant’ Eden Brothers sells a number of quantities of seeds of this variety. Autumn Giant Leek This tall heirloom grows as tall as 30 inches, with stalks that can reach three inches wide at maturity. ‘Autumn Giant’ is ready to harvest in 135 to 150 days. ‘Autumn Giant’ Get packages of about 50 seeds from Frozen Seed Capsules via Amazon. Lancelot This adaptable hybrid grows a 12- to 14-inch white shafts with dark blue-green flags. ‘Lancelot’ grows well in many zones, and matures in 75 days. ‘Lancelot’ Packages of 72 seedlings of this cultivar are available from Burpee. Pests and Disease Leeks, unfortunately, are impacted by a few insects and several types of fungi. Insects Keep an eye out for these insect pests: Leafminers (Lyriomyza spp.) These tiny, 1/8-inch flies are generally yellow, dark gray, or black, or a combination thereof. They leave thin, white, winding trails on leaves. You might also see white blotches on leaves. The fly lays its eggs in the leaf, and the larvae feed on the leaf’s interior. Use neem oil to get rid of these pests. Find more tips on leafminer control here. Onion Maggots (Delia antiqua) The tiny white larvae of this quarter-inch gray fly emerge from eggs laid on leek leaves or in the soil, and then bore into the plant. They grow to about half an inch long, using their feeding hooks to tear up the plant. This is damaging in and of itself, and the damaged plants are also more susceptible to other pathogens, such as bacteria. Leaves of affected plants turn yellow and the stalk rots. Prevention – such as through crop rotation – is the best way to prevent an infestation. One a plant is impacted, it must be dug up and destroyed. Thrips (Thrips tabaci) Yellow or black dots on plants may be a symptom of thrips. Another sign is leaves that turn silver or gray, or leaves that twist and die. Thrips are small winged insects that damage plants by sucking fluids out. Control them with insecticidal soap, neem oil, or spinosa, a biological pesticide. Read more about thrip identification and control here. Disease Leeks may be plagued by a number of types of fungi, all of which can be treated with a commercial fungicide. Good airflow and proper planting techniques and watering practices, as well as diligently ridding the beds of errant weeds, can help to protect your plants. Here are the primary culprits: Rust (Phragmidium spp.) Rust is a fungal disease that presents as orange pustules on leaves. Botrytis Leaf Blight (Botrytis squamosa) This fungus is characterized by small white lesions ringed in light green. Damping Off (Fusarium spp.) Seedlings that grow slowly and then wilt and die may be a sign of damping off. Root tips of affected plants may be tan, yellow, black, or pink. Learn more about this disease here. Downy Mildew (Peronospora parasitica) Purplish-gray fuzzy growth on leaf surfaces may be a sign of downy mildew. You may see pale spots on leaves, followed by widespread leaf yellowing and collapsed leaf tips. Pink Root (Phoma terrestris) Stunted plants with undersized shafts may be a sign of pink root, which also causes roots to turn light pink and then darken to purple. The roots may be transparent and water-soaked. Purple Blotch (Alternaria porri) Purple blotch presents on the flag or stalk with small, water-soaked lesions with white centers. These blotches enlarge and become brown or purple, with yellow edges. Foliage may die. White Rot (Sclerotinia cepivorum) White rot can stunt growth, causing yellowing of leaves, and eventual death of all foliage. You may see a fluffy white growth at the base of the plant. Harvesting Most leek varieties are fully developed when the stems grow to be a minimum of one inch in width. Some smaller varieties, however, mature at one-half to three-fourths of an inch in diameter. Check your seed packets so you know what to look for. A good quality leek should have a firm, white shaft that’s more than three inches long. Leeks can be harvested whenever they’ve reached their desired size. Leek tops do not die back as the plant matures, unlike with onions and shallots, so you can’t rely on that marker. Simply twist and – gently – pull leeks to harvest them. Or you can dig around them if the soil is dry, and lift them up. You can trim flags to a more manageable length for storage, if you like. See our guide to how to harvest leeks for seven expert tips. Preserving Store leeks in an airtight plastic bag in the crisper drawer of the refrigerator; they’ll stay fresh for about a week. In really cold areas, there’s a longer-term storage option: After harvest, leave the roots attached, but cut the flag back to about an inch. Place stems root-end down in a box and fill it with sand, vermiculite, or sawdust. Keep the packing moist, but not waterlogged, and store in a cool place, where they will keep for about eight weeks. You can freeze these veggies too. Wash them thoroughly (more on this shortly), slice them, and blanch for one minute in boiling water. Blanching helps vegetables to retain their color and nutrients, and it destroys enzymes that can cause spoilage. Drain the blanched slices, dry them, and place them in zip-top plastic freezer bags for storage. They should keep for three to four months. It’s Smelling a Bit Strong in Here Most gardeners who’ve grown leeks consider them to be fairly easy to grow. As long as you give them nutritious soil, some fertilizer, and sufficient water, they should do well in your garden. You’ll also want to keep an eye out for pests and fungi. If you’re not terribly familiar with leeks as an ingredient in your cooking, try expanding your kitchen repertoire with this delicious allium. What better way to do that is there than by growing your own? Are you an experienced leek grower? Please share your wisdom in the comments below. While we’re exploring the alliums, why not check out a few onion articles? Give these a read next: Photos by Fanny Slater and Raquel Smith © Ask the Experts, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. See our TOS for more details. Originally published December 3rd, 2019. Last updated January 19th, 2025. Product photos via Burpee, Eden Brothers, Seeds4planting, and Amazon. Uncredited photos: Shutterstock. Additional writing and editing by Clare Groom and Allison Sidhu. !function(f,b,e,v,n,t,s) if(f.fbq)return;n=f.fbq=function()n.callMethod? n.callMethod.apply(n,arguments):n.queue.push(arguments); if(!f._fbq)f._fbq=n;n.push=n;n.loaded=!0;n.version='2.0'; n.queue=[];t=b.createElement(e);t.async=!0; t.src=v;s=b.getElementsByTagName(e)[0]; s.parentNode.insertBefore(t,s)(window, document,'script', ' fbq('init', '176410929431717'); fbq('track', 'PageView'); Source link

[iammeandmy]

Allium ampeloprasum var. porrum The leek looks like a steroid-fueled green onion. It’s considerably fatter than a scallion, at one to three inches wide, and about twice as tall. But it totally wears the same outfit, albeit in a bigger size. It is in fact related to onions, offering a mild, sweet, onion-like flavor that is used to season any number of dishes – more on that later in this article. Leeks are a cool-weather crop, with an ideal growing-temperature range of 55 to 75°F. Like collard greens, they appreciate a frost or two for better flavor development. We link to vendors to help you find relevant products. If you buy from one of our links, we may earn a commission. Most varieties are hardy to Zones 7 or 8, though some types can tolerate cooler weather. We’ll offer some specifics shortly. The plant is a biennial, though damage and dieback due to a hard freeze will make it an annual. The topmost, leafy green part of the plant is called the “flag,” and the white part is usually called the “stem” or “stalk,” though botanically speaking these are misnomers. The white part of the plant is technically a tight bundle of leaf sheaths. Ready to dive in to the fascinating world of the leek? Here’s what’s to come in this article: It’s time to get growing! Leeks are native to the eastern Mediterranean and the Middle East. They were cultivated in Egypt more than 4,000 years ago, and enjoyed by the workers who built the pyramids. As well as being a staple in the diet of ordinary people, apparently the emperor Nero was fond of a leek or two, eating them almost daily to strengthen his voice. Quick Look Common name(s): Leek Plant type: Biennial vegetable Hardiness (USDA Zone): 5-10 Native to: Mediterranean Season: Spring Exposure: Full sun Soil type: Rich and well draining Soil pH: 6.0-7, slightly acidic to neutral Time to maturity: 80-150 days, depends on variety Spacing: 6 inches Planting depth: Seeds -1/8 inch, seedlings – half the depth Mature size: 6-12 inches wide x 2-3 feet high Water Needs: 1 inch per week Taxonomy Order: Apiales Family: Amaryllidaceae Genus: Allium Species: A. ampeloprasum var. porrum Cultivars: various The Greek physician Hippocrates is thought to have prescribed this vegetable as a cure for nose bleeds. Leeks make an appearance in what is regarded as the world’s first cookbook, “Apicius de re Coquinaria,” (“On the Subject of Cooking”) compiled in fourth- to fifth-century Rome. The recipe collection includes several for leeks, most of which showcase it not as a seasoning for other foods, but as a vegetable to be enjoyed on its own. It is thought that the vegetable spread across Europe and to the British Isles by the marauding Romans. European settlers brought the vegetable to North America. For reasons that are not completely understood, the vegetable is today the national emblem of Wales and is worn proudly on St. David’s Day – a holiday to honor the country’s patron saint. Propagation You can grow leeks from seed or, like the pineapple, propagate it from kitchen scraps. From Seed Start seeds indoors in pots or seed trays. Scatter seeds on top of a rich potting mix, and then cover them with a scant dusting of soil. You can expect germination within five to 12 days. Or you can direct sow outdoors, as long as air temperatures are below 77 and above 55°F. The optimal temperature for germination is between 70 and 77°F. Seedlings will be ready to transplant when they’re six to eight inches tall. Harden them off by moving them outdoors for a few hours each day, gradually lengthening the time spent outside each day for about a week. When you’re ready to transplant, remove seedlings from the soil and gently separate them. Create narrow holes in your prepared bed that are about half as deep as the seedlings, from the root to the top of the stem. The holes should be narrow, not more than an inch in diameter, and can be made by poking a dowel or ‘dibber’ into the ground – as opposed to digging a hole with a garden spade. They should be spaced 6 inches apart in rows that are one foot apart. Set the seedlings into the holes; some of the green part may be below the soil surface, and that’s okay for this plant. Fill the holes with water, but do not backfill the holes with soil. The soil will gradually crumble in, but it will be loose, allowing the leeks to swell to a plump diameter as they grow. From Scraps You can also start a new plant from the rooted bit at the end of a leek stalk. Simply cut off and use the top, leaving at least an inch of stalk at the end, with the roots intact. Place this bit in a cup, add water to cover about half the stalk, put it in a sunny window, and soon you will have more greens shooting up. You can also use toothpicks to suspend the cutting in water, as you would with an avocado pit. Once the top part has started to show new growth of two to three inches, you can plant it out in the garden. Alternatively, keep it in the water to continue growing and harvest straight from your windowsill! How to Grow Leeks prefer rich, well-draining soil with a pH between 6.0 and 7.0. They need a minimum of eight hours of bright sunlight daily. Many varieties require a long growing period of 120 to 150 days, but newer cultivars may require as few as 90 days to mature. With a shallow root system, leeks need about an inch of water per week, so track your local precipitation rates and irrigate if it doesn’t rain. Mulch the growing area well. The white part of the leek is the most desirable for cooking and eating, being tender and less fibrous than the green. Therefore, gardeners often hill the dirt around the shaft to prevent that part of the plant from making chlorophyll and turning green. Alternatively, you can fashion a sheath out of cardboard or other porous material to wrap around the stalk as it grows. It needs to be opaque but still allow for some airflow, otherwise the leek may start to rot. About midway through the growing season, side dress the growing area about six inches away from the plants with a balanced fertilizer such as a 10-10-10 NPK mix at a rate of one cup for 10 feet of row. Leeks are highly tolerant of cold. Depending on the variety, they can take temperatures down to 5°F or so, and a frost or two is said to improve their flavor. But you definitely want to pull them before the ground freezes. If you live in a place where you can overwinter leeks, consider that they will probably bolt in spring if they’ve been exposed to frosts and then the weather warms up. If it’s their second year of life, they’ll bolt regardless, being biennial. So pull them before the weather gets too warm, or let a few bolt for seed saving purposes. The round purple, lavender, or pink flowers are quite attractive, and after they go to seed, you can harvest and save the seeds for planting next year. To do this, pluck the pods when they start to crack open. Place them in paper bags to dry, then shake the bags to separate the seeds from the chaff. If you store the seeds in a cool, dry place, they should remain viable for up to three years. You can eat the leeks after they bolt, but they’re not very good. Cultivars to Select As referenced throughout this article, a number of leek cultivars are available, all with various enticing qualities. American Flag This heirloom variety is hardy and will overwinter in mild climates. ‘American Flag’ grows to 20 inches tall and 1.5-2 inches thick. It has thick, blue-green leaves. ‘American Flag’ ‘American Flag’ matures in 130 days. Find seeds in a variety of quantities from Eden Brothers. Early Giant Good for planting in early spring, ‘Early Giant’ has a shorter maturation period of 98 days. This heirloom variety is known for its consistent size and great flavor. ‘Early Giant’ Eden Brothers sells a number of quantities of seeds of this variety. Autumn Giant Leek This tall heirloom grows as tall as 30 inches, with stalks that can reach three inches wide at maturity. ‘Autumn Giant’ is ready to harvest in 135 to 150 days. ‘Autumn Giant’ Get packages of about 50 seeds from Frozen Seed Capsules via Amazon. Lancelot This adaptable hybrid grows a 12- to 14-inch white shafts with dark blue-green flags. ‘Lancelot’ grows well in many zones, and matures in 75 days. ‘Lancelot’ Packages of 72 seedlings of this cultivar are available from Burpee. Pests and Disease Leeks, unfortunately, are impacted by a few insects and several types of fungi. Insects Keep an eye out for these insect pests: Leafminers (Lyriomyza spp.) These tiny, 1/8-inch flies are generally yellow, dark gray, or black, or a combination thereof. They leave thin, white, winding trails on leaves. You might also see white blotches on leaves. The fly lays its eggs in the leaf, and the larvae feed on the leaf’s interior. Use neem oil to get rid of these pests. Find more tips on leafminer control here. Onion Maggots (Delia antiqua) The tiny white larvae of this quarter-inch gray fly emerge from eggs laid on leek leaves or in the soil, and then bore into the plant. They grow to about half an inch long, using their feeding hooks to tear up the plant. This is damaging in and of itself, and the damaged plants are also more susceptible to other pathogens, such as bacteria. Leaves of affected plants turn yellow and the stalk rots. Prevention – such as through crop rotation – is the best way to prevent an infestation. One a plant is impacted, it must be dug up and destroyed. Thrips (Thrips tabaci) Yellow or black dots on plants may be a symptom of thrips. Another sign is leaves that turn silver or gray, or leaves that twist and die. Thrips are small winged insects that damage plants by sucking fluids out. Control them with insecticidal soap, neem oil, or spinosa, a biological pesticide. Read more about thrip identification and control here. Disease Leeks may be plagued by a number of types of fungi, all of which can be treated with a commercial fungicide. Good airflow and proper planting techniques and watering practices, as well as diligently ridding the beds of errant weeds, can help to protect your plants. Here are the primary culprits: Rust (Phragmidium spp.) Rust is a fungal disease that presents as orange pustules on leaves. Botrytis Leaf Blight (Botrytis squamosa) This fungus is characterized by small white lesions ringed in light green. Damping Off (Fusarium spp.) Seedlings that grow slowly and then wilt and die may be a sign of damping off. Root tips of affected plants may be tan, yellow, black, or pink. Learn more about this disease here. Downy Mildew (Peronospora parasitica) Purplish-gray fuzzy growth on leaf surfaces may be a sign of downy mildew. You may see pale spots on leaves, followed by widespread leaf yellowing and collapsed leaf tips. Pink Root (Phoma terrestris) Stunted plants with undersized shafts may be a sign of pink root, which also causes roots to turn light pink and then darken to purple. The roots may be transparent and water-soaked. Purple Blotch (Alternaria porri) Purple blotch presents on the flag or stalk with small, water-soaked lesions with white centers. These blotches enlarge and become brown or purple, with yellow edges. Foliage may die. White Rot (Sclerotinia cepivorum) White rot can stunt growth, causing yellowing of leaves, and eventual death of all foliage. You may see a fluffy white growth at the base of the plant. Harvesting Most leek varieties are fully developed when the stems grow to be a minimum of one inch in width. Some smaller varieties, however, mature at one-half to three-fourths of an inch in diameter. Check your seed packets so you know what to look for. A good quality leek should have a firm, white shaft that’s more than three inches long. Leeks can be harvested whenever they’ve reached their desired size. Leek tops do not die back as the plant matures, unlike with onions and shallots, so you can’t rely on that marker. Simply twist and – gently – pull leeks to harvest them. Or you can dig around them if the soil is dry, and lift them up. You can trim flags to a more manageable length for storage, if you like. See our guide to how to harvest leeks for seven expert tips. Preserving Store leeks in an airtight plastic bag in the crisper drawer of the refrigerator; they’ll stay fresh for about a week. In really cold areas, there’s a longer-term storage option: After harvest, leave the roots attached, but cut the flag back to about an inch. Place stems root-end down in a box and fill it with sand, vermiculite, or sawdust. Keep the packing moist, but not waterlogged, and store in a cool place, where they will keep for about eight weeks. You can freeze these veggies too. Wash them thoroughly (more on this shortly), slice them, and blanch for one minute in boiling water. Blanching helps vegetables to retain their color and nutrients, and it destroys enzymes that can cause spoilage. Drain the blanched slices, dry them, and place them in zip-top plastic freezer bags for storage. They should keep for three to four months. It’s Smelling a Bit Strong in Here Most gardeners who’ve grown leeks consider them to be fairly easy to grow. As long as you give them nutritious soil, some fertilizer, and sufficient water, they should do well in your garden. You’ll also want to keep an eye out for pests and fungi. If you’re not terribly familiar with leeks as an ingredient in your cooking, try expanding your kitchen repertoire with this delicious allium. What better way to do that is there than by growing your own? Are you an experienced leek grower? Please share your wisdom in the comments below. While we’re exploring the alliums, why not check out a few onion articles? Give these a read next: Photos by Fanny Slater and Raquel Smith © Ask the Experts, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. See our TOS for more details. Originally published December 3rd, 2019. Last updated January 19th, 2025. Product photos via Burpee, Eden Brothers, Seeds4planting, and Amazon. Uncredited photos: Shutterstock. Additional writing and editing by Clare Groom and Allison Sidhu. !function(f,b,e,v,n,t,s) if(f.fbq)return;n=f.fbq=function()n.callMethod? n.callMethod.apply(n,arguments):n.queue.push(arguments); if(!f._fbq)f._fbq=n;n.push=n;n.loaded=!0;n.version='2.0'; n.queue=[];t=b.createElement(e);t.async=!0; t.src=v;s=b.getElementsByTagName(e)[0]; s.parentNode.insertBefore(t,s)(window, document,'script', ' fbq('init', '176410929431717'); fbq('track', 'PageView'); Source link

[januishstory]

Allium ampeloprasum var. porrum The leek looks like a steroid-fueled green onion. It’s considerably fatter than a scallion, at one to three inches wide, and about twice as tall. But it totally wears the same outfit, albeit in a bigger size. It is in fact related to onions, offering a mild, sweet, onion-like flavor that is used to season any number of dishes – more on that later in this article. Leeks are a cool-weather crop, with an ideal growing-temperature range of 55 to 75°F. Like collard greens, they appreciate a frost or two for better flavor development. We link to vendors to help you find relevant products. If you buy from one of our links, we may earn a commission. Most varieties are hardy to Zones 7 or 8, though some types can tolerate cooler weather. We’ll offer some specifics shortly. The plant is a biennial, though damage and dieback due to a hard freeze will make it an annual. The topmost, leafy green part of the plant is called the “flag,” and the white part is usually called the “stem” or “stalk,” though botanically speaking these are misnomers. The white part of the plant is technically a tight bundle of leaf sheaths. Ready to dive in to the fascinating world of the leek? Here’s what’s to come in this article: It’s time to get growing! Leeks are native to the eastern Mediterranean and the Middle East. They were cultivated in Egypt more than 4,000 years ago, and enjoyed by the workers who built the pyramids. As well as being a staple in the diet of ordinary people, apparently the emperor Nero was fond of a leek or two, eating them almost daily to strengthen his voice. Quick Look Common name(s): Leek Plant type: Biennial vegetable Hardiness (USDA Zone): 5-10 Native to: Mediterranean Season: Spring Exposure: Full sun Soil type: Rich and well draining Soil pH: 6.0-7, slightly acidic to neutral Time to maturity: 80-150 days, depends on variety Spacing: 6 inches Planting depth: Seeds -1/8 inch, seedlings – half the depth Mature size: 6-12 inches wide x 2-3 feet high Water Needs: 1 inch per week Taxonomy Order: Apiales Family: Amaryllidaceae Genus: Allium Species: A. ampeloprasum var. porrum Cultivars: various The Greek physician Hippocrates is thought to have prescribed this vegetable as a cure for nose bleeds. Leeks make an appearance in what is regarded as the world’s first cookbook, “Apicius de re Coquinaria,” (“On the Subject of Cooking”) compiled in fourth- to fifth-century Rome. The recipe collection includes several for leeks, most of which showcase it not as a seasoning for other foods, but as a vegetable to be enjoyed on its own. It is thought that the vegetable spread across Europe and to the British Isles by the marauding Romans. European settlers brought the vegetable to North America. For reasons that are not completely understood, the vegetable is today the national emblem of Wales and is worn proudly on St. David’s Day – a holiday to honor the country’s patron saint. Propagation You can grow leeks from seed or, like the pineapple, propagate it from kitchen scraps. From Seed Start seeds indoors in pots or seed trays. Scatter seeds on top of a rich potting mix, and then cover them with a scant dusting of soil. You can expect germination within five to 12 days. Or you can direct sow outdoors, as long as air temperatures are below 77 and above 55°F. The optimal temperature for germination is between 70 and 77°F. Seedlings will be ready to transplant when they’re six to eight inches tall. Harden them off by moving them outdoors for a few hours each day, gradually lengthening the time spent outside each day for about a week. When you’re ready to transplant, remove seedlings from the soil and gently separate them. Create narrow holes in your prepared bed that are about half as deep as the seedlings, from the root to the top of the stem. The holes should be narrow, not more than an inch in diameter, and can be made by poking a dowel or ‘dibber’ into the ground – as opposed to digging a hole with a garden spade. They should be spaced 6 inches apart in rows that are one foot apart. Set the seedlings into the holes; some of the green part may be below the soil surface, and that’s okay for this plant. Fill the holes with water, but do not backfill the holes with soil. The soil will gradually crumble in, but it will be loose, allowing the leeks to swell to a plump diameter as they grow. From Scraps You can also start a new plant from the rooted bit at the end of a leek stalk. Simply cut off and use the top, leaving at least an inch of stalk at the end, with the roots intact. Place this bit in a cup, add water to cover about half the stalk, put it in a sunny window, and soon you will have more greens shooting up. You can also use toothpicks to suspend the cutting in water, as you would with an avocado pit. Once the top part has started to show new growth of two to three inches, you can plant it out in the garden. Alternatively, keep it in the water to continue growing and harvest straight from your windowsill! How to Grow Leeks prefer rich, well-draining soil with a pH between 6.0 and 7.0. They need a minimum of eight hours of bright sunlight daily. Many varieties require a long growing period of 120 to 150 days, but newer cultivars may require as few as 90 days to mature. With a shallow root system, leeks need about an inch of water per week, so track your local precipitation rates and irrigate if it doesn’t rain. Mulch the growing area well. The white part of the leek is the most desirable for cooking and eating, being tender and less fibrous than the green. Therefore, gardeners often hill the dirt around the shaft to prevent that part of the plant from making chlorophyll and turning green. Alternatively, you can fashion a sheath out of cardboard or other porous material to wrap around the stalk as it grows. It needs to be opaque but still allow for some airflow, otherwise the leek may start to rot. About midway through the growing season, side dress the growing area about six inches away from the plants with a balanced fertilizer such as a 10-10-10 NPK mix at a rate of one cup for 10 feet of row. Leeks are highly tolerant of cold. Depending on the variety, they can take temperatures down to 5°F or so, and a frost or two is said to improve their flavor. But you definitely want to pull them before the ground freezes. If you live in a place where you can overwinter leeks, consider that they will probably bolt in spring if they’ve been exposed to frosts and then the weather warms up. If it’s their second year of life, they’ll bolt regardless, being biennial. So pull them before the weather gets too warm, or let a few bolt for seed saving purposes. The round purple, lavender, or pink flowers are quite attractive, and after they go to seed, you can harvest and save the seeds for planting next year. To do this, pluck the pods when they start to crack open. Place them in paper bags to dry, then shake the bags to separate the seeds from the chaff. If you store the seeds in a cool, dry place, they should remain viable for up to three years. You can eat the leeks after they bolt, but they’re not very good. Cultivars to Select As referenced throughout this article, a number of leek cultivars are available, all with various enticing qualities. American Flag This heirloom variety is hardy and will overwinter in mild climates. ‘American Flag’ grows to 20 inches tall and 1.5-2 inches thick. It has thick, blue-green leaves. ‘American Flag’ ‘American Flag’ matures in 130 days. Find seeds in a variety of quantities from Eden Brothers. Early Giant Good for planting in early spring, ‘Early Giant’ has a shorter maturation period of 98 days. This heirloom variety is known for its consistent size and great flavor. ‘Early Giant’ Eden Brothers sells a number of quantities of seeds of this variety. Autumn Giant Leek This tall heirloom grows as tall as 30 inches, with stalks that can reach three inches wide at maturity. ‘Autumn Giant’ is ready to harvest in 135 to 150 days. ‘Autumn Giant’ Get packages of about 50 seeds from Frozen Seed Capsules via Amazon. Lancelot This adaptable hybrid grows a 12- to 14-inch white shafts with dark blue-green flags. ‘Lancelot’ grows well in many zones, and matures in 75 days. ‘Lancelot’ Packages of 72 seedlings of this cultivar are available from Burpee. Pests and Disease Leeks, unfortunately, are impacted by a few insects and several types of fungi. Insects Keep an eye out for these insect pests: Leafminers (Lyriomyza spp.) These tiny, 1/8-inch flies are generally yellow, dark gray, or black, or a combination thereof. They leave thin, white, winding trails on leaves. You might also see white blotches on leaves. The fly lays its eggs in the leaf, and the larvae feed on the leaf’s interior. Use neem oil to get rid of these pests. Find more tips on leafminer control here. Onion Maggots (Delia antiqua) The tiny white larvae of this quarter-inch gray fly emerge from eggs laid on leek leaves or in the soil, and then bore into the plant. They grow to about half an inch long, using their feeding hooks to tear up the plant. This is damaging in and of itself, and the damaged plants are also more susceptible to other pathogens, such as bacteria. Leaves of affected plants turn yellow and the stalk rots. Prevention – such as through crop rotation – is the best way to prevent an infestation. One a plant is impacted, it must be dug up and destroyed. Thrips (Thrips tabaci) Yellow or black dots on plants may be a symptom of thrips. Another sign is leaves that turn silver or gray, or leaves that twist and die. Thrips are small winged insects that damage plants by sucking fluids out. Control them with insecticidal soap, neem oil, or spinosa, a biological pesticide. Read more about thrip identification and control here. Disease Leeks may be plagued by a number of types of fungi, all of which can be treated with a commercial fungicide. Good airflow and proper planting techniques and watering practices, as well as diligently ridding the beds of errant weeds, can help to protect your plants. Here are the primary culprits: Rust (Phragmidium spp.) Rust is a fungal disease that presents as orange pustules on leaves. Botrytis Leaf Blight (Botrytis squamosa) This fungus is characterized by small white lesions ringed in light green. Damping Off (Fusarium spp.) Seedlings that grow slowly and then wilt and die may be a sign of damping off. Root tips of affected plants may be tan, yellow, black, or pink. Learn more about this disease here. Downy Mildew (Peronospora parasitica) Purplish-gray fuzzy growth on leaf surfaces may be a sign of downy mildew. You may see pale spots on leaves, followed by widespread leaf yellowing and collapsed leaf tips. Pink Root (Phoma terrestris) Stunted plants with undersized shafts may be a sign of pink root, which also causes roots to turn light pink and then darken to purple. The roots may be transparent and water-soaked. Purple Blotch (Alternaria porri) Purple blotch presents on the flag or stalk with small, water-soaked lesions with white centers. These blotches enlarge and become brown or purple, with yellow edges. Foliage may die. White Rot (Sclerotinia cepivorum) White rot can stunt growth, causing yellowing of leaves, and eventual death of all foliage. You may see a fluffy white growth at the base of the plant. Harvesting Most leek varieties are fully developed when the stems grow to be a minimum of one inch in width. Some smaller varieties, however, mature at one-half to three-fourths of an inch in diameter. Check your seed packets so you know what to look for. A good quality leek should have a firm, white shaft that’s more than three inches long. Leeks can be harvested whenever they’ve reached their desired size. Leek tops do not die back as the plant matures, unlike with onions and shallots, so you can’t rely on that marker. Simply twist and – gently – pull leeks to harvest them. Or you can dig around them if the soil is dry, and lift them up. You can trim flags to a more manageable length for storage, if you like. See our guide to how to harvest leeks for seven expert tips. Preserving Store leeks in an airtight plastic bag in the crisper drawer of the refrigerator; they’ll stay fresh for about a week. In really cold areas, there’s a longer-term storage option: After harvest, leave the roots attached, but cut the flag back to about an inch. Place stems root-end down in a box and fill it with sand, vermiculite, or sawdust. Keep the packing moist, but not waterlogged, and store in a cool place, where they will keep for about eight weeks. You can freeze these veggies too. Wash them thoroughly (more on this shortly), slice them, and blanch for one minute in boiling water. Blanching helps vegetables to retain their color and nutrients, and it destroys enzymes that can cause spoilage. Drain the blanched slices, dry them, and place them in zip-top plastic freezer bags for storage. They should keep for three to four months. It’s Smelling a Bit Strong in Here Most gardeners who’ve grown leeks consider them to be fairly easy to grow. As long as you give them nutritious soil, some fertilizer, and sufficient water, they should do well in your garden. You’ll also want to keep an eye out for pests and fungi. If you’re not terribly familiar with leeks as an ingredient in your cooking, try expanding your kitchen repertoire with this delicious allium. What better way to do that is there than by growing your own? Are you an experienced leek grower? Please share your wisdom in the comments below. While we’re exploring the alliums, why not check out a few onion articles? Give these a read next: Photos by Fanny Slater and Raquel Smith © Ask the Experts, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. See our TOS for more details. Originally published December 3rd, 2019. Last updated January 19th, 2025. Product photos via Burpee, Eden Brothers, Seeds4planting, and Amazon. Uncredited photos: Shutterstock. Additional writing and editing by Clare Groom and Allison Sidhu. !function(f,b,e,v,n,t,s) if(f.fbq)return;n=f.fbq=function()n.callMethod? n.callMethod.apply(n,arguments):n.queue.push(arguments); if(!f._fbq)f._fbq=n;n.push=n;n.loaded=!0;n.version='2.0'; n.queue=[];t=b.createElement(e);t.async=!0; t.src=v;s=b.getElementsByTagName(e)[0]; s.parentNode.insertBefore(t,s)(window, document,'script', ' fbq('init', '176410929431717'); fbq('track', 'PageView'); Source link

[recurringzombiedreams]

Dreams I've had in the last two days:

1. I dreamed that teleportation existed, and my mom and my brother and I (All about 15 years younger) drove to my grandmother's house, which is about 3.5 hours away from where I currently live (Why did we DRIVE THERE???) and Mom had to teleport back to my brother's school so he could do a sports thing (He played soccer for like a year in elementary school and never again), and they were trusting ME to drive the car back to where I live. By the way, the only vaguely accurate part of this timeline is that I had still gotten my DUI five years ago so if I got caught driving then fuuuuuuck me.

2) I dreamed that I found exactly $43,000 on the ground in the form of a check stapled to a $1 bill (Which I guess makes it $43,001) because this guy was stapling hella money to small bills and I couldn’t get him to tell me why. It was some cause or another but I couldn’t fathom how stapling $43,000 helped ANYONE. But I do remember thinking that that money would solve a lot of problems

3) This dream is less vivid than the other ones, but I remember a frantic search for the razor blades I had hidden around the house. Irl I think there's a maximum of two still hidden because it's been like eight or nine months since I last self harmed so I slowly removed them, but they were EVERYWHERE in this dream. I’m not even sure why I was looking for them because I don’t remember it being self harm-related

[yomica12345]

Glass-says: Chapter 19

Chapter 1 Link, Chapter 18 Link

Ao3 Link

Warnings: Implied Physical Abuse

Chapter 19: A Study Over

"A study -over?" Logan repeated, his face scrunching up.

"Because it's like a sleepover but you're all studying." Patton nodded, chuckling.

Logan held back a sigh, putting his bag down beside the coffee table and removing his textbooks, setting them up as he would his desk at home. "I suppose now that you believe you have stumbled across a clever name that encompasses the activity you will not be accepting constructive criticism."

"I think it's perfect, Padre." Roman spoke up from the doorway, glancing to Logan, raising a hand up to his neck. "Logan, I'm…"

Logan looked to his watch. "Sorry you shoved me while I was attempting to help you as I have been for approximately five days, seven hours and eighteen minutes now?"

Roman blinked. "Approximately?" 

"If I knew the exact time I would be able to list it off to the second." Logan pushed up his glasses, waiting for Roman to continue.

"You're a nerd."

"Roman." Patton folded his arms, raising an eyebrow.

Roman exhaled, lowering his hand. "Logan, I'm sorry. You're… right."

Logan's lips turned up at the admission, giving a nod of his head.

"You've only been trying to… encourage me in your own strange way. I just got frustrated which is not an excuse so I'm sorry for pushing you and I hope we can still be friends."

Logan pushed himself up carefully to his feet. "It's alright, Roman, I should not have pressed you so hard for an answer straight away." He extended his hand. 

Roman looked down at the hand for a second and gave it a light shake, relieved he wouldn't have to worry about things being too awkward between them. "I promise I'll tell Virgil. Maybe not just yet, but I will."

"Tell me what?"

Roman jumped, twirling around to face the emo, gesturing with his arms out at him. "Virgil, hey, you're here!" 

"Yeah… I sort of live here." Virgil nodded, entering the space and plopping his notes on an empty spot on the coffee table.

"Yeah, you do." Roman grimaced, face palming.

"So?" 

Roman glanced up quickly, face scrunching up as he swiftly put down his hand. "So what?"

"What do you have to tell me?"

"Tell you? Nothing important. I can just tell you later."  Roman waved off, grabbing a textbook. "We should really be focusing on studying right now anyway." He looked down at the math textbook in his hands, making a face and trading it for the language arts one instead.

"I agree." Logan pulled out a stack of paper. "I have prepared worksheets so I will be able to understand where you both are and what parts of each subject you are struggling with."

"You brought worksheets?" Roman plopped the textbook back onto the coffee table, splaying out on the couch. "But we just got out of school a half hour ago." He whined.

"Actually, forty-three minutes and twenty-eight seconds ago." Logan fixed the position of the discarded textbook before handing Virgil a neatly stapled worksheet and holding one out for Roman. "School does not end when we leave the school building. It ends when we have properly completed our work and understand the material we are covering. In a sense it also goes beyond that in that we-"

Roman snatched the worksheet from him. "Let's just get this over with."

~

"My brain hurts." Roman complained, slumping back against the couch now that they were finally finished studying for the night.

Virgil set his pencil down, massaging the side of his head. "Well I think I feel a migraine coming on."

"I can barely feel my hand."

Virgil raised an eyebrow, his lips twitching upwards. "You can feel your hand?"

Roman sat up narrowing his eyes slightly at Virgil. "Are you… Are you trying to one up me?" 

"Don't think it's trying when I clearly am." Virgil smirked.

Roman sputtered indignantly. "You can't one up me! That's- That's impossible!"

"Doesn't seem like it is to me." Virgil chuckled softly.

"Oh my gosh they're so cute!" Patton squealed. 

"It is quite enjoyable watching Roman when offended." Logan admitted with a slight nod of his head. After a moment he turned his attention back to the table to finish packing his textbooks away. He got out a pair of pajamas and a familiar container, getting up and starting towards the stairs. "I will return shortly."

Patton nodded, with a grin, turning back to Virgil and Roman. "Who's ready for a mov-" He froze as someone passed right through him.

"Is this your new boyfriend, Virge?" 

Virgil stopped laughing, his cheeks warming as he scooted ever so slightly away from his friend. "Roman is not my boyfriend."

"So you have a boyfriend then." The girl smirked, setting her bags down.

"No, I don't- I-" Virgil stuttered.

"Virgil, il mio bambino." A woman with hair matching the darkness of Virgil's roots, dropped her own bags, tugging Virgil to his feet so she could kiss him on the head and give him a big hug. 

Virgil grimaced, a little out of breath from the crushing force of his mother's arms around him. "Hey, mom."

His mother pulled away to look him over, smoothing out his hair. "Hai mangiato bene? È successo qualcosa mentre eravamo via? Com'è stata la tua ansia?"

"I'm fine. Nothing's changed since you texted me two hours ago." Virgil mumbled, his eyes flickering to Roman.

Virgil's mother followed his gaze. "This is Roman?" She moved over to him, taking Roman's face into her hands for a moment to look him over. "Oh, mio caro ragazzo. You are welcome to stay here as long as you like. I mean it. You are part of our family now."

"I…" Roman stared over her shoulder blankly as he processed the information, his eyes tearing up a bit.

"Anything you need Wilder and I will provide." Virgil's mother let go, narrowing her eyes. "You want us to take those horrible parents to court, we will do it in a beat of the heart. You have siblings? We will take them in. Anything you need."

"That's- That's fine I'd rather no one have to go through the trouble."

"For you, it'd be worth the trouble." She gave him a kiss on the head. "Welcome to our family. You can call me Giovanna or whatever you are most comfortable with." She gave Roman another quick hug. "Now what would you like for supper? Anything you want I will make it."

"What I want?" Roman looked to Virgil. "I don't…"

"Gnocchi, I'm sure Roman will love your gnocchi." Virgil spoke up.

"Gnocchi, oh, you will love it." Giovanna nodded eagerly. "Bianca and I will get started on it right away." She pulled out her phone, scooting Bianca out of the living room as she scolded her. "Faresti meglio a non spaventare quel povero ragazzo, Bia."

Roman watched them go before turning back to Virgil. "So that's your family then, huh? I never would have expected them to be so…"

"Doting?" Virgil offered, falling back onto the couch.

"Affectionate." Roman sat down beside him. "It's just you're so…"

"Cold, yeah, I get it." Virgil mumbled, fiddling with the end of his sleeve.

"No, I wasn't going to say that. You're an emo edge lord, that's all." Roman nudged Virgil. "I wouldn't love you for it any other way."

"Love… me?" Virgil looked up, tilting his head, brows furrowed.

Roman's face turned a dark shade of pink, holding up his hands. "I- I did not mean it like that I only meant as- as a friend that cares about you and-" He stuttered.

Virgil quirked an eyebrow, lips turning up at the corners as he moved closer to Roman. "As just a friend?"

"Of course." Roman chuckled awkwardly, leaning away as his friend got even closer.

"Then why the blush, Prince?"

"I'm not blushing, I am merely… I am just hot." Roman started to fan himself for emphasis. 

"Wanna bet? 'Cause I don't think you can stare into my eyes for a whole minute." Virgil smirked.

"I can too!" Roman sat up, meeting Virgil's eyes with determination.

Virgil shifted over a bit after a few seconds. "We have to be closer than that." 

Roman's cheeks were still warm as he maintained eye contact, straightening his posture as the time ticked on.

Virgil looked between Roman's two eyes, pulling at the sleeve of his jacket.

Roman started tapping on his leg, breathing out softly.

Virgil's eyes flickered to Roman's lips for a moment before quickly looking back up.

"You looked away first!" Roman laughed, jumping to his feet and pointing at Virgil. "Who likes who now?"

"I- that doesn't count you breathed!" Virgil argued, his cheeks flushing with a dusting of pink shining through his foundation.

"So I'm not allowed to breathe then or is it that you cannot resist my rosy lips?" Roman grinned.

"You said you love me." Virgil shot back. 

"As a friend. I meant as a friend. I was only caught up in the moment because I wanted to make you smile, I-" 

Someone cleared their throat. "Hey, kid, how have you been?" 

Roman shut up, quickly taking a step to be out of Virgil's way, his cheeks red.

Virgil got up from the couch, sticking his hands into his jacket pockets and glancing Roman's way for a half a second. "Hey, pop. I've been fine."

Wilder gave a little nod, looking over his shoulder. "Your friend Logan is a smart kid." He turned back to Virgil, gesturing to his office. "Could we possibly talk for a moment, Virge?"

"Um, sure, yeah." Virgil hesitantly followed after him. 

Wilder softly shut the door. "How much do you know about Logan? His home life? Other friends? Is he possibly being bullied?" 

"Not, this dad." Virgil sighed. "Don't scare him away by reading too much into things." He fell back into the chair, resting his head over the back of it.

"He is quite tense for someone your age, Virgil. I am merely worried about his mental health and the possibility of him being in an unsafe home. Are you certain there is nothing to worry about?"  

Virgil stared up at the ceiling with a frown. "Yeah… 'Course I am."

His father exhaled, reaching for the door again. "Please keep an eye on him for me at least. Let me know if anything is wrong before anyone does something idiotic as well."

"I will, yeah." Virgil got up, rubbing his arm as he stepped out of the office. Was Logan actually okay? He still wasn't sure how Logan hadn't even gotten hurt. Had never met his father either… How much did he actually know about the nerd? Did Patton possibly know anything? Should he be worried? He bit his lip as he glanced up to watch Logan talking with Roman and Patton. Maybe he should keep an eye on him, just in case.

Chapter 20