monaleen101

[monaleen101]

By: Shelly Posted: Aug 14, 2025 This apple brown betty is an easy, old-fashioned dessert with gooey baked apples layered with a buttery, sweet cinnamon crumble. It’s great for holiday baking with fresh fall apples, but I love to make it year-round. Serve this easy apple betty warm, topped with vanilla ice cream like apple pie à la mode. If you’re a fan of classic peach cobbler and apple crisp, this old-fashioned apple dessert is right up your alley! Apple brown betty is one of those old-timey, nostalgic desserts that tastes like it’s freshly baked from Grandma’s kitchen. If you’ve never made one, a betty is a lot like an apple crisp or a cobbler, with gooey baked fruit and a crumbly topping. Traditionally, it’s made with sweetened breadcrumbs. For simplicity’s sake, I’ve layered my easy apple brown betty with a quick blender streusel made from flour, brown sugar, butter, and a hint of cinnamon spice. This Old-Fashioned Apple Betty Recipe Is… A quick, no-fuss dessert. An apple brown betty is quick to make with budget-friendly pantry staples like fresh apples, flour, and brown sugar. The topping comes together in the food processor! Great for fall baking. With piles of apples and a touch of warm spice, this dessert is ideal for fall. Of course, that doesn’t stop me from baking it year-round. Occasion-ready. This apple betty is a true crowd-pleaser. I almost always return home with an empty baking dish whenever I take it along to a party or potluck. Topped with whipped cream or ice cream? It’s unbeatable. You’ll Need These Ingredients Supposedly named after its creator, the history of a brown Betty is still a little fuzzy. What we do know is that it’s an American dessert made from fruit, in this case apples, but you’ll also find versions with pears or berries. I’ve included notes on the ingredients I use below. Scroll down to the recipe card for the printable list with amounts. Apples – Peeled and sliced. I like to use firm, crisp-tart baking apples like Granny Smith apples or Honeycrisp. See below for details. Orange Juice – I love the combination of orange juice with the cinnamon in the topping. You could also use lemon juice. The acidity boosts the flavor and keeps the apples from browning. Flour – I recommend all-purpose flour here, as I haven’t tested the recipe with other types yet. Sugar – I make the streusel layer with a combination of brown sugar and granulated sugar. You could use all of one kind of sugar if needed. Cinnamon – Other good options are nutmeg, cardamom, ginger, apple pie spice, or pumpkin pie spice. I include a little salt in the crumble, too. Butter – Cold, cubed butter. I always bake with salted butter, but unsalted works, too. What Are the Best Apples to Use? As mentioned, I bake my brown betty with Honeycrisp or Granny Smith apples. Other good choices are Pink Lady, Braeburn, Cortland apples, or a mix of different varieties.  What’s the Difference Between Apple Crisp and Apple Betty? The main difference between an apple betty, apple crisp, and apple cobbler is the topping. Apple crisp has a crunchy oat topping, and a cobbler is often topped with batter, while a brown betty has layers of buttery crumbs. How to Make Apple Brown Betty  Here’s a short overview of the steps to make this apple betty. Be sure to scroll down to the recipe card for the printable recipe instructions afterward. Prep. While the oven preheats to 375ºF, grease a 9×9-inch baking dish. A deep-dish pie plate also works well here. Next, add the sliced apples to a bowl with orange juice and toss to coat. Add cold butter to the dry ingredients. Pulse to create a crumble. Make the topping. Meanwhile, pulse the flour, both sugars, cinnamon, and salt in your blender or food processor. Pulse the cubed butter a little at a time until you have coarse crumbs. Add sliced apples. Layer over the crumble and bake. Assemble. Now, spread about ½ of the apples into the prepped baking pan. Top with ½ the crumble, then another layer of apples and a final layer of crumbs. Bake. Bake the apple betty at 375ºF for 40-45 minutes until the apples are bubbly and tender and the crumble top is golden brown. Cool for a few minutes, and then serve with ice cream or whipped cream. Avoid a Soggy Crumble Make sure that the butter you use for the streusel is COLD when it’s mixed with the flour and sugar. If the butter is too warm before it gets into the oven, it can make the crumble soggy. Recipe Notes and Variations More add-ins. Sprinkle chopped nuts like pecans or walnuts in between the layers, or add dried cranberries or raisins. You could also swap the crumble for graham cracker crumbs or rolled oats. Different fruit. Swap half the apples (or all of them) out for different fruits. Make an apple-pear brown betty with fresh sliced Bosc or Anjou pears. You could also try rhubarb, berries, or peaches. Double the recipe. Double your ingredients and make this apple betty in a 9×13-inch pan if you’re feeding a large crowd. Storage Tips Refrigerate. Store this apple brown betty airtight in the fridge for up to 5 days. Reheat. Warm up servings in the microwave, or you can reheat the apple betty in a 350ºF oven until it’s hot throughout. Print clock clock iconcutlery cutlery iconflag flag iconfolder folder iconinstagram instagram iconpinterest pinterest iconfacebook facebook iconprint print iconsquares squares iconheart heart iconheart solid heart solid icon Description This apple brown betty is an easy, old-fashioned dessert with gooey baked apples layered with a buttery, sweet cinnamon crumble.  4 cups of peeled and sliced apples (3 – 4 medium apples, I prefer Honey Crisp or Granny Smith) 3 tablespoons orange juice 1 cup all-purpose flour 1 cup granulated sugar 1/3 cup dark brown sugar 1 tablespoon ground cinnamon 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt 3/4 cup cold butter, cubed Preheat the oven to 375°F. Coat a 9×9 baking dish (or a deep dish pie plate) with nonstick spray and set aside. In a large bowl, combine the apple slices and orange juice, stirring to coat. Set aside. In your food processor (or blender), combine the flour, sugar, brown sugar, cinnamon, and salt. Pulse in the butter a few cubes at a time to combine. Repeat with the remaining butter until the mixture is coarse crumbs and no large pieces of butter remain. Spread half of the apples evenly into the bottom of the prepared baking dish. Top the apples with half of the crumb mixture. Repeat with the remaining apples and crumb. Bake for 40 – 45 minutes until the top is crisp and golden and the apples are tender. Allow this to cool for 10 minutes and then serve warm with ice cream or whipped cream. Notes Store airtight in the refrigerator for up to 5 days. Reheat in the microwave or a 350°F oven. Want To Save This Recipe?Find more recipes like this: Source link

[monaleen101]

What Is Labor Day? Labor Day is observed on the first Monday of September every year in the United States. This holiday honors the American labor movement and the social and economic achievements of workers. It’s a time to recognize the contributions of workers to the strength, prosperity, and well-being of the country. Labor Day in 2025 will be observed on Monday, September 1, marking the traditional end of summer in the United States. Celebrated annually on the first Monday of September, Labor Day honors the contributions and achievements of American workers, while also serving as a time for rest, family gatherings, and community events. Many people enjoy parades, barbecues, and outdoor activities, while retailers offer significant holiday sales. As a federal holiday, most schools, government offices, and many businesses remain closed, giving workers a well-deserved long weekend. Choosing the Right Tablecloths Tablecloths are the foundation of any well-decorated table. They set the tone and color scheme for your event and provide a cohesive look that ties all the decorative elements together. Here are some tips on selecting the perfect tablecloths for your Labor Day celebration: 1. Material Selection Cotton Tablecloths: Cotton is a classic choice for tablecloths, offering a soft, natural feel that works well in both indoor and outdoor settings. It’s durable, easy to clean, and available in a wide range of colors and patterns. Linen Tablecloths: For a more sophisticated look, consider linen. Linen tablecloths bring an elegant, textured appearance that can elevate your table setting. They are particularly well-suited for more formal Labor Day dinners. Vinyl Tablecloths: If your Labor Day celebration includes a poolside barbecue or picnic, vinyl tablecloths are an excellent choice. They’re waterproof, easy to wipe clean, and come in vibrant patterns that add a festive touch to your gathering. 2. Color and Patterns Patriotic Colors: Since Labor Day in the USA is a national holiday, consider using tablecloths in red, white, and blue. These colors pay homage to the American flag and create a festive atmosphere. Seasonal Colors: If you prefer a subtler look, consider autumn-inspired colors like deep oranges, earthy browns, and muted greens. These colors are a nod to the changing season and provide a warm, welcoming feel. Patterns: Stripes, checks, and plaid patterns are popular choices for Labor Day 2025 celebrations. They offer a casual, laid-back vibe perfect for outdoor gatherings. Elevating Your Table with Napkins Napkins are more than just functional items; they’re an opportunity to add color, texture, and style to your table. Here are some ideas on how to use napkins effectively in your Labor Day table setting: 1. Fabric Choices Cotton Napkins: Just like cotton tablecloths, cotton napkins are a popular choice due to their softness and absorbency. They’re also easy to wash and reuse, making them an eco-friendly option. Linen Napkins: For a touch of elegance, opt for linen napkins. They add a refined look to your table and pair beautifully with linen tablecloths. 2. Napkin Folding Techniques Classic Fold: A simple rectangular or square fold keeps things neat and timeless. This works well for both casual and formal settings. The Fan Fold: For a more decorative touch, try a fan fold. This technique creates a beautiful fan shape that can be placed directly on the plate or tucked into a glass. The Knot: Tie your napkins in a loose knot and place them on top of the plates. This casual yet stylish look is perfect for a relaxed outdoor Labor Day celebration. 3. Accessorize with Napkin Rings Rustic Rings: Wooden or twine napkin rings add a rustic, natural element to your table. These are especially fitting for outdoor events. Patriotic Rings: Red, white, and blue napkin rings can reinforce your patriotic theme and bring a cohesive look to your table setting. Floral Rings: If you’re leaning towards a more elegant or nature-inspired theme, floral napkin rings add a beautiful, organic touch. Adding Charm with Cotton Placemats Cotton placemats are another essential element in your Labor Day table decoration. They not only protect your table from spills and stains but also add texture and color to your setting. Here’s how to make the most of placemats in your decor: 1. Choosing the Right Color Neutral Tones: For a sophisticated look, consider neutral-toned placemats like beige, cream, or gray. These colors complement most tablecloths and allow other elements of your table setting to shine. Bold Colors: If you want your placemats to be a focal point, go for bold colors like red, navy, or mustard. These colors can either match or contrast with your tablecloth for a striking effect. 2. Patterns and Textures Striped Placemats: Stripes are a classic pattern that works well with solid-colored tablecloths. They add visual interest without overwhelming the overall design. Woven Textures: Woven cotton placemats bring a tactile element to your table. The texture adds depth and can enhance the rustic or casual feel of your Labor Day celebration. 3. Layering for Effect Layering placemats over a tablecloth can create a rich, multi-dimensional look. For example, use a neutral tablecloth as a base and layer bold, patterned placemats on top for a dynamic presentation. Best Outdoor Table Decorations for Wedding Guests Labor Day weekend is also a popular time for weddings, especially outdoor ones. If you’re planning a wedding or attending one during this time, here are some of the best outdoor table decorations that will impress your guests and create a memorable ambiance: 1. Seasonal Centerpieces Floral Arrangements: Choose flowers that are in season, such as sunflowers, dahlias, and marigolds. Arrange them in rustic containers like mason jars, wooden boxes, or metal buckets for a charming, country-inspired look. Lanterns and Candles: For an evening wedding, lanterns and candles can add a romantic glow to your tables. Opt for lanterns with a vintage finish or simple glass votives filled with tea lights. Gourds and Pumpkins: Since Labor Day marks the transition to fall, incorporating small gourds and pumpkins into your centerpieces can add a festive, autumnal touch. 2. Personalized Place Settings Custom Name Cards: Create personalized name cards for each guest. You can use small flags, leaves, or mini chalkboards to write the names. This not only helps guests find their seats but also adds a personal touch to the table. Themed Napkin Rings: Use napkin rings that match your wedding theme. For example, if you’re having a beach wedding, use seashell napkin rings. For a rustic wedding, consider burlap or twine rings. 3. Table Runners Burlap and Lace: A burlap table runner with lace accents is perfect for a rustic or country-themed wedding. It adds texture and warmth to the table without overwhelming the overall decor. Silk or Satin Runners: For a more elegant look, opt for table runners in a color that complements your wedding palette. These runners can add a touch of luxury to your outdoor wedding tables. 4. Lighting String Lights: String lights are a popular choice for outdoor weddings. Drape them over tables or hang them from trees to create a magical, twinkling effect as the sun sets. Fairy Lights in Jars: Place fairy lights in glass jars or bottles and scatter them across the table. This creates a whimsical, enchanting atmosphere that your guests will love. 5. Eco-Friendly Decorations Reusable Materials: Use decorations made from eco-friendly materials like bamboo, recycled glass, or organic cotton. These options not only look beautiful but also reduce your environmental impact. Potted Plants: Instead of cut flowers, consider using potted plants as centerpieces. Guests can take these home as favors, adding a sustainable element to your wedding. Source link

[monaleen101]

Log In The work of a facility cleaning manager is anything but dull. Not only must they ensure critical buildings such as schools, hospitals, government offices, and other facilities are properly cleaned and managed, but they must also balance razor-thin budgets, the spirits and egos of both occupants and staff, and hiring and retention woes.  The up-and-down nature of facility management is exactly why Facility Cleaning Decisions conducts an annual survey. Each year, the responses provided by facility cleaning managers help others in similar positions to make strong, informed decisions. It's a simple, but selfless act made by a profession comprised of compassionate people. The “2025 Facility Cleaning Decisions Management Survey” continues this tradition of providing useful insights that will no doubt help many.  The current employment situation in the United States could be described a variety of different ways. To sum it up in one word would be something like “frustrating.” In recent years, there were more job openings in the United States than workers available to fill those positions, according to the U.S. Chamber of Commerce, that gap finally closed nationwide in April 2025, but it still exists in some industries and areas of the county, according to the U.S. Chamber of Commerce. Meanwhile, the labor force participation rate in the United States has steadily declined since 2005.  The impact of these trends shows up early and often in this year’s management survey responses. When asked to rate a list of employment issues by how much they impact their cleaning departments, facility cleaning managers say, “hiring adequate employees,” “employee absenteeism,” and “staff retention” are most impactful. Respondents provided the exact same top three in the 2024 survey, but 2023 results swapped hiring and absenteeism for “employee tardiness” and “lack of adequate training.”  Employees are any facility cleaning manager's greatest resource. Just over half (53 percent) of facility cleaning managers feel they have the resources necessary to complete all the cleaning tasks their facility requires. That represents a noticeable decline from both 2023 and 2024, when 69 percent of respondents answered “yes” to the same question each year.  While that statistic indicates facility cleaning managers are having a hard time finding workers who do a good job, show up when scheduled, and stick around, other responses indicate employment is not that big of an issue. Just over half (53 percent) of respondents say they plan to add staff to their department in the next 12 months, and only 46 percent said they planned to do so in the 2024 survey. The average tenure of janitors working for facility cleaning managers who completed the survey is also over nine years, suggesting good stability considering the median employee tenure of workers in the United States in early 2024 was 3.9 years, according to the U.S. Bureau of Labor Statistics.  Perhaps one reason janitors seem to be sticking with their employers for a while is the fact that facility cleaning managers are willing to invest in their growth. The great majority of respondents (86 percent) in the 2025 survey say they support employee certification and accreditation or offer advancement opportunities to frontline staff. That’s a sharp increase from 2024 and 2023, when an already sizable majority of 69 and 67 percent answered “yes” to the question, respectively.  Staff training and advancement opportunities aren’t the only noteworthy investments facility cleaning managers are making. Technology is crucial to modern facility management, and the way these operations are embracing different offerings suggests they agree. It’s no surprise smartphones remain the most popular technology used by cleaning departments, with 71 percent reporting utilization. Meanwhile, two-way radios, which were the second most common technology in 2023 and 2024, dropped to third this year.   Notably, 61 percent of respondents report using software for job scheduling, workloading, inspections, etc., making it presently the second most common technology they employ. But while software is being used, it doesn’t appear that facility cleaning managers are entirely satisfied with it. Just 26 percent felt they would recommend, specify, or purchase software, compared to 2020 when 40 percent of respondents made software one of their selections.   One technology that has been frequently discussed is autonomous equipment. Much of the hesitation to implementing this equipment in recent years was due to cost and return on investment, but productivity advantages paired with current staffing struggles seem to outweigh those perceived high price tags. Just three years ago, only seven percent of departments were utilizing robotic floor and carpet equipment. In 2025, 21 percent of facility cleaning managers reported use, which represents an impressive trend.   Robotic equipment should, in theory, reduce staffing needs, which is noteworthy at a time when 55 percent of those surveyed reported labor as their biggest expense, followed distantly by product/equipment purchasing and maintenance/upkeep, each at 18 percent.  Although allocation of budgets won’t likely change much, the amount diverted to each of these categories might go up as the year goes on. Proposed tariffs are threatening product and part prices/availability, and many departments are facing significant minimum wage hikes.  For example, in early 2025, the Los Angeles City Council approved a minimum wage package that would require hotels with more than 60 rooms and companies doing business at the Los Angeles International Airport to pay their workers $30 an hour by 2028. If these increases permeate the industry, budgets will require adjustments.   The good news is at least the majority of budgets aren’t being slashed. About two-thirds of respondents (64 percent) report their budget wasn’t reduced in 2024 or early 2025. While this statistic isn’t as encouraging as it was in 2024 — 80 percent reported budget stability — it could be worse. When asked to describe their operations budget this year, 39 percent of managers called it “fluid,” which means it adjusts each year relative to cleaning demand.  A small portion of the survey asked facility cleaning managers to make future projections. When asked if they expected several different variables pertaining to their department to increase, decrease, or stay the same in the next 12 months, “stay the same” was the most common response. This pertained to training opportunities, departmental budgets, the amount of area cleaned, product purchasing, and more. When asked to rank, in order, their top three management priorities over the next 12 months, improving staff performance and cleaning was the clear top choice, followed by increasing budget dollars.  These are just some of the more noteworthy industry trends, but there's much more in the survey, which as a whole shows facility managers are optimistic. Log in to access and download this full study and all the results.  Jake Meister is the senior associate editor of Facility Cleaning Decisions, Contracting Profits and Sanitary Maintenance magazines, as well as CleanLink.com.  POSTED ON: 8/15/2025 Industry News & Trends Industry Training & Events Advice from the Field Insights & Updates Source link

[monaleen101]

While raising chickens, there are lots of factors that needs to considered and ground cover is one of them. A muddy chicken run can raise serious health issues among flocks and it will compromise overall hygiene of the chicken coop. So, what can be considered as the best ground covering for chicken run? An ideal ground cover for chicken run must provide excellent drainage, easy maintenance, support natural behaviours like dust bathing, and withstand heavy traffic and weather conditions. Coarse sand, pine straw, grass or wood chips can be your preferred material to be used as ground covering for chicken run. These different materials make chicken runs better by letting them scratch and hunt for food naturally, keeping the area from getting muddy and providing your chickens places to dust bathe to keep their feathers clean. Later in this article, you’ll discover the most cost-effective ground cover options tailored to your specific climate and weather conditions. Before that let’s understand the importance of ground covering in detail. Benefits of Ground Cover for a Chicken Run Good ground cover helps keep the run dry by improving drainage and preventing mud buildup. This reduces the risk of foot infections and keeps your flock’s feathers clean and healthy. It supports natural chicken behaviors like scratching, foraging, and dust bathing, which keep birds active and happy. These activities also help maintain feather health and reduce stress. Durable ground cover materials protect the soil from erosion, control unpleasant odors, and make cleaning easier. This ensures a healthier, more hygienic environment for both chickens and their keepers. 6 Best Ground Covers for Your Chicken Run Selecting proper ground cover for your chicken run is essential for flock health, comfort, and easier maintenance. The right material prevents bacterial infections, supports natural behaviors like dust bathing, and simplifies daily care routines. Different covers suit various climates, drainage needs, and budgets—some prioritize cleanliness while others encourage natural scratching. Also Read: How to Get Chickens to Go into the Coop at Night? 1. Sand Coarse construction sand offers excellent drainage, keeping runs dry and reducing mud and bacteria buildup. It’s easy to rake and spot-clean while providing chickens with a natural dust bath for parasite control. Sand provides solid footing that reduces slips and prevents foot issues like bumblefoot when properly maintained. Waste dries quickly on the surface, making odor management much simpler than with organic ground covers. It doesn’t decompose, so it stays level and functional for extended periods with only occasional top-ups needed. Sand works best in wet climates or heavy-traffic runs where mud formation is a persistent problem. Always choose coarse, washed river sand or builder’s sand rather than fine play sand to prevent compaction and dust issues. Pair with proper drainage underneath for maximum performance and chicken comfort. 2. Grass Fresh grass runs look attractive and allow chickens to graze naturally, adding essential vitamins to their diet. Birds enjoy scratching for insects and bugs, which keeps them mentally stimulated and physically active. Grass cover works best in large, low-density runs or as part of rotational grazing systems. In smaller confined spaces, chickens can quickly destroy grass coverage, leaving bare soil that turns muddy. To maintain healthy grass, overseed regularly and rest sections using movable fencing or chicken tractors. Hardy grass blends with rye, fescue, and clover handle pecking and heavy foot traffic better than standard lawn varieties. Good drainage is absolutely essential, or wet patches will quickly turn to muddy mess, especially around feeders and waterers. Consider installing raised pathways or pavers in high-traffic zones to protect grass roots from damage. Mow grass high to keep root systems strong and remove wet clumps promptly to prevent soil compaction. Expect seasonal fluctuations with lush growth in spring and stress during winter months or drought conditions. Must Read: How to Clean and Disinfect the Chicken Coop? 3. Wood Chips Arborist wood chips create a springy, natural surface that provides excellent drainage while supporting natural chicken behaviors. They help control odors by trapping moisture and provide an ideal environment for scratching and foraging. Chips slowly decompose into rich compost over time, naturally improving the soil quality underneath the run. Refresh the top layer periodically and perform seasonal deep-cleaning to maintain optimal hygiene standards. Always avoid fresh black walnut chips and any pressure-treated wood materials, as both can be harmful to chickens. Coarse, irregular chips perform much better than fine bark mulch or shavings in wet weather conditions. Wood chips work exceptionally well under trees or in shaded runs where grass struggles to grow properly. They integrate perfectly with deep-litter management approaches to reduce maintenance while boosting overall soil health. 4. Gravel Pea gravel or small rounded stones dramatically improve drainage and eliminate mud problems in trouble spots. It’s extremely durable and long-lasting, making it ideal for gateways, areas under waterers, and main traffic pathways. Use a properly compacted base layer underneath to prevent sinking and mixing with underlying soil. Consider installing geotextile fabric as an underlay to separate gravel from dirt for maximum longevity and performance. Gravel isn’t suitable for dust bathing activities and can be uncomfortable on chicken feet if edges are too sharp. Pair gravel areas with sand or chip zones to meet both comfort needs and natural behavioral requirements. It’s easy to hose down and disinfect during disease-control situations, making it valuable for biosecurity measures. Gravel works best as a targeted solution for problem areas rather than full-run coverage in most chicken setups. In colder climates, gravel can feel harsh underfoot, so provide softer resting areas for chicken comfort. Monitor regularly for trapped feed that could attract rodents and other unwanted pests. 5. Pine Straw Pine needles naturally form a light, airy mat that effectively sheds water and reduces surface mud formation. Chickens love scratching through pine straw, which helps keep the run area active and naturally clean. It’s inexpensive or often free in many regions and easy to refresh as the material breaks down over time. Pine straw gradually adds valuable organic matter to soil and improves overall soil structure and health. Avoid creating thick, matted layers that can hold excess moisture—fluff or turn the straw routinely for best results. In very wet climates, combine pine straw with wood chips or sand for improved durability and drainage. Pine straw is gentle on chicken feet and provides a comfortable surface for resting and relaxation. It’s also less likely to blow away in windy conditions compared to dry leaves when properly layered. Also Read: How to Stop Chickens from Pooping in Nesting Boxes? 6. Dry Leaves Dry leaves provide a budget-friendly, seasonal ground cover that chickens thoroughly enjoy shredding and scratching through. They create excellent foraging opportunities and work well in deep-litter management systems. Leaves tend to compact when wet, so mix them with wood chips or straw to prevent matting and odor problems. Shredded leaves perform significantly better than whole leaves for maintaining proper airflow and even decomposition. Reapply leaves frequently during rainy seasons since they decompose quickly in wet conditions. Always source chemical-free leaves from areas not treated with herbicides or pesticides to protect your flock’s health. Conclusion Choose ground cover materials based on your specific drainage needs, local climate conditions, and flock density requirements. The most practical approach often involves combining different materials to create a balanced system that addresses multiple needs. A successful setup typically pairs sand or gravel in high-traffic zones with softer materials like wood chips, pine straw, or leaves in other areas. This combination provides optimal hygiene, comfort, and opportunities for natural chicken behaviors throughout the year. Khaja Moinuddin, a computer science graduate, finds joy in gardening and homesteading. Join him on this blog as he shares his experiences in homesteading, gardening, and composting Source link

[monaleen101]

Hi GPODers! We’re back in Rotterdam, New York, today to see more fabulous plant combinations in Maxine Brisport’s peak-season garden. Be sure to check out Part 1 if you missed it yesterday, but if you’re ready to see more of Maxine’s incredible summer color, keep scrolling! Our midsummer garden is a vibrant tapestry, a kaleidoscope of colors that erupts in every direction. Bright yellow cup plants stand tall, their cheerful faces attracting buzzing bees and fluttering butterflies. The sweet, heady perfume of roses mingles with the subtle scent of the lilies, creating an intoxicating aroma that fills the air. The gentle rustle of leaves in the breeze, accompanied by the chirping of birds, forms a natural soundtrack that enhances the peaceful ambiance. Every corner of the garden is overflowing with life, a testament to the abundance and joy of summer. Thank you,Maxine Brisport In yesterday’s post we covered many of Maxine’s outstanding flowers, with bursts of bright color everywhere. Today we’re shifting toward the shadier areas in Maxine’s garden. While there is still no shortage of color, there is also a bit more emphasis on interesting foliage. For instance, this mass planting of ferns creates a bright sea of green. Flowers still pull focus, like this incredible Rainbow Rhythm® ‘Sound of My Heart’ daylily (Hemerocallis ‘Sound of My Heart’, Zones 3–9), but some outstanding variegated foliage makes for captivating companion plants. Of course, who can resist a close-up of those stunning blooms? Even plants that provide bright pops of color, like the mustard yellow flowers of ‘Bottle Rocket’ leopard plant (Ligularia ‘Bottle Rocket’, Zones 3–9), also have fantastic foliage. The large, deeply serrated leaves of ligularias provide interest even when the plant isn’t flowering. Next up is one of the adorable bright yellow cup plants (Silphium perfoliatum, Zones 3–9) Maxine mentioned in her introduction. These cheerful wildflowers are native to much of the Eastern United States and, as Maxine mentioned, will have bees and butterflies flocking to your garden. This adorable birdhouse that doubles as a planter is a genius creation! And a Hippo® Rose polka dot plant (Hypoestes phyllostachya ‘G14160’, Zones 10–11 or as an annual) is the perfect pick to add even more color in the shade beneath the tree canopy. For great plant pairings that will complement each other and thrive in similar conditions, consider looking at family members! Bright purple betony (Stachys officinalis, Zones 4–8) is similar in form to lambs’ ears (Stachys byzantina, Zones 4–8), making them good together, but vastly different colors provide enough contrast to make the pairing interesting. Near a small, shady seating area in her garden, Maxine has a sprinkling of astilbe that send shoots of vivid hues throughout the dense greenery. A bright pink cultivar in the foreground is backed up by a beautiful purple variety, and a peek of a lighter pink specimen can barely be seen in the background. Last, but certainly not least, a close up of an extraordinary ‘Lion King’ Japanese iris (Iris ensata ‘Lion King’, Zones 4–9). Photos never do justice to size or scale, and these ornate blooms can grow up to a huge 7 to 8 inches. What a magical final flower to leave us on. Thank you so much for this stunning garden update, Maxine! There is so much in your garden to admire, but it is the incredible use of color that captures my attention every time. What hues have erupted from your peak-season garden this year? Maxine’s array of blooms is an impressive feat, but I know she’s not the only GPODer that cultivates an incredible collection of color this time of year. Keep our celebration of summer color going, and consider sharing photos of your mid-summer designs with Garden Photo of the Day! Follow the directions below to submit photos via email, or send me a DM on Instagram: @agirlherdogandtheroad.   We want to see YOUR garden! Have photos to share? We’d love to see your garden, a particular collection of plants you love, or a wonderful garden you had the chance to visit! To submit, send 5–10 photos to [email protected] along with some information about the plants in the pictures and where you took the photos. We’d love to hear where you are located, how long you’ve been gardening, successes you are proud of, failures you learned from, hopes for the future, favorite plants, or funny stories from your garden. Have a mobile phone? Tag your photos on Facebook, Instagram, or Twitter with #FineGardening! Do you receive the GPOD by email yet? Sign up here Fine Gardening Recommended Products Johnny’s Selected Seeds Connecta® Cultivation Kit Fine Gardening receives a commission for items purchased through links on this site, including Amazon Associates and other affiliate advertising programs. Choose the right tool head for the job and switch out quickly with a simple push-button release. Includes the Connecta receiver, Connecta Collinear 4 head, Connecta Collinear 7 head, Connecta Contour Wire 4 head, Connecta Contour Wire 6 head, a sustainably harvested oiled ashwood handle, and a stainless-steel carrying clip. Lee Valley Mini Garden Shear Set Fine Gardening receives a commission for items purchased through links on this site, including Amazon Associates and other affiliate advertising programs. These shears have a distinctive finger rest that not only aids grip but allows greater freedom of movement than a conventional handle design. They have a durable powder-coat finish to resist rust and wear, and a simple clasp that locks the spring-action stainless-steel blades closed. The set includes one pair of round-nose shears measuring 5 1/2" overall with 1" blades for cutting stems up to 3/8" in diameter, and one pair of 6 1/2" needle-nose shears with 2" fine-tip blades for precise work. Corona® Multi-Purpose Metal Mini Garden Shovel Fine Gardening receives a commission for items purchased through links on this site, including Amazon Associates and other affiliate advertising programs. Longer Service Life: The blade of this round small shovel is made of carbon steel, which can effectively improve the hardness by high temperature quenching, and the surface has anti-rust coating to avoid rusting. In the process of use when encountering hard objects will not bend and deformation. Sturdy Structure: The small garden shovel with D-handle, ergonomically designed grip can increase the grip of the hand when using, the handle is made of strong fiberglass, will not bend and break under heavy pressure. Quick Digging: Well-made digging shovel has a sharp blade, and the round shovel head is designed to easily penetrate the soil and cut quickly while digging to enhance your work efficiency. Source link

[monaleen101]

Cultivating and caring for edible plants is a rewarding endeavor that many gardeners look forward to every season. To enhance your gardening experience, consider planting crops that can be harvested continuously throughout the season, rather than varieties that produce only once. Below, agricultural experts highlight a variety of continuous-harvest crops that can enrich your gardening experience and allow you to maximize the rewards of your efforts. From strawberries to lettuce, these refreshing fruits and vegetables keep producing, ensuring there is plenty for you to enjoy and share with others. Marvin Pritts, a professor of horticulture at Cornell University's School of Integrative Plant Science Ankit Singh, assistant professor and ornamental horticulture educator at the University of Maine Extension Leaf Lettuce Credit: joannatkaczuk / Getty Images Leaf lettuce (Lactuca sativa) is praised for its ability to produce new leaves consistently. Ankit Singh, assistant professor and ornamental horticulture educator at the University of Maine Extension, says leaf lettuce can be harvested every three to four weeks. "You can sow leaf lettuce in spring and continue to harvest leaves multiple times until the plant bolts," says Singh. He also highlights that fall sowings can yield several cuttings until the frost arrives. To ensure a continuous harvest, pick the outer leaves while leaving the inner, smaller leaves to keep growing. Zones: 4 to 9Size: 6 to 12 inches tall x 6 to 12 inches wideCare requirements: Full sun to partial shade; well-draining soil rich in organic matter Everbearing Raspberries Credit: Andrei Metelev / Getty Images There’s an undeniable joy in being able to harvest delicious raspberries (Rubus idaeus) time and again. Certain varieties of everbearing raspberries, like 'Heritage' and 'Caroline,' are capable of producing two harvests annually: one in the summer and another in the fall. Marvin Pritts, a professor of horticulture at Cornell University's School of Integrative Plant Science, says that while these types are often labeled as 'everbearing' in catalog descriptions, a more precise term would be 'double-cropping' or 'primocane-fruiting.' To successfully achieve double cropping, it's essential to prune the spent floricanes following the summer harvest. Zones: 4 to 8Size: 4 to 8 feet tall x 3 to 6 feet wideCare requirements: Full sun; well-draining soil rich in organic matter Kale Credit: Wera Rodsawang/Getty Images Kale (Brassica oleracea) is a cool-season green that can be harvested multiple times throughout its growing season, making it a great cut-and-come-again crop. According to Singh, you can harvest kale every two to three weeks from late spring until early winter. Once the plants mature, regularly picking the outer leaves will encourage new growth from the center. Similar to leaf lettuce, it's best to leave the younger, central leaves intact when harvesting to promote further development. Zones: 2 to 9Size: 12 to 48 inches tall x 12 to 24 inches wideCare requirements: Full sun to partial shade; well-draining soil rich in organic matter Green Beans Credit: Getty / DircinhaSW Green beans (Phaseolus vulgaris) provide a quick harvest and enrich the soil with nitrogen and other essential nutrients. Both bush and pole beans can be harvested every three to seven days during peak summer production. "Once beans start producing, frequent picking encourages the plant to continue producing for several weeks," says Singh. It is best to harvest the beans when they are young and tender, approximately 4 to 6 inches long. Zones: 3 to 10Size: Bush beans: 1 to 2 feet tall x 1 to 2 feet wide. Pole beans: 6 to 15 feet tall x 3 to 4 feet wide.Care requirements: Full sun; well-draining soil rich in organic matter Day-Neutral Strawberries Credit: Getty / romiri Nothing says summer quite like picking juicy strawberries (Fragaria × ananassa) fresh from the plant. Unlike June-bearing strawberries, which have a single concentrated harvest, day-neutral strawberries produce a continuous crop throughout summer and into fall, according to Pritts. Although the individual harvests might be smaller than those of June-bearing varieties, the overall yield for the entire season can be significantly higher with day-neutral varieties. Pritts also notes that when properly overwintered, day-neutral strawberries will produce a spring crop the following year. Zones: 3 to 10Size: 6 to 12 inches x 12 to 18 inches wideCare requirements: Full sun; well-draining soil rich in organic matter Cucumbers Credit: Antonina Trushina / GETTY IMAGES Cucumbers (Cucumis sativus) are a delightful summer treat, known for their refreshing flavor and satisfying crunch. If you want to set aside some cucumbers for pickling and others for snacking, you don't need to worry—this plant produces plenty of fruit. Frequent harvesting encourages the cucumber plant to yield more fruit, resulting in additional harvests. Zones: 4 to 12Size: 1 to 6 feet tall x 1 to 8 feet wide, depending on varietyCare requirements: Full sun; well-draining soil rich in organic matter Everbearing Blackberries Credit: Iuliia Bondar / Getty Images If you enjoy the texture and taste of blackberries (Rubus), you’ll be pleased to know that these plants can produce two harvests each year. According to Pritts, primocane-fruiting blackberries yield a delicious crop in late summer and fall. In general, blackberries are adaptable to various soil types and conditions, making them a good choice for gardeners. Many popular everbearing varieties, such as 'Prime-Ark Freedom', are thornless, making them easier to handle and harvest. Zones: 4 to 9Size: 4 to 10 feet tall x 4 to 6 feet wide, depending on varietyCare requirements: Full sun; well-draining soil rich in organic matter Zucchini Credit: Yelena Shander / Getty Images Zucchini plants (Cucurbita pepo) are well-known for their impressive productivity, making them a favorite among gardeners who want abundant harvests. With just one plant, you can enjoy multiple harvests throughout the growing season. To maintain this fruitful yield, regular harvesting is essential. For the best flavor and tenderness, it is recommended to harvest zucchini when they reach about 4 to 6 inches long. Zones: 4 to 11Size: 2 to 6 feet tall x 2 to 4 feet wideCare requirements: Full sun; well-draining soil rich in organic matter Tomatoes Credit: Susumu Yoshioka / Getty Images Tomatoes (Solanum lycopersicum) are among the most anticipated garden fruits, and thankfully, they are a crop that keeps on giving. Indeterminate tomato varieties are known for their continuous fruit production, providing juicy tomatoes throughout summer. While tomatoes naturally tend to produce fruit continuously, consistent watering, frequent harvesting, and regular scouting for pests and diseases can ensure that the harvests are ready and abundant. Zones: 3 to 10Size: 6 to 10 feet tall x 3 to 5 feetCare requirements: Full sun; well-draining soil rich in organic matter Source link

[monaleen101]

Key Points Plant cabbage six to eight weeks before your first frost to give it time to mature in cooler temps for sweeter heads.Keep soil moist, fertilize biweekly, and watch for pests like aphids or worms to help cabbage thrive.Harvest when heads are firm, full-sized, and color-matched to their variety, then store in the fridge, root cellar, or freezer. Already thinking of your fall vegetable garden? Cabbage is likely on your list to enjoy the hearty, sweet greens in your stews or comforting meals, but like most vegetables, it takes a good amount of time to see the fruits of your labor. You might be wondering when the best time to plant cabbage for fall crops is, and we're here to say the answer is now! Before the weather turns cool, you have some work to do to get your cabbage harvest ready for the cooler months. Here's your complete guide on growing cabbage successfully for the fall, such as the best time to plant your seeds, how to plant and grow your cabbage, and when is the best time to harvest. When Is the Best Time to Plant Cabbage for the Fall? Credit: The Spruce / Autumn Wood The best time to plant cabbage for a fall harvest is during late summer. More specifically, six to eight weeks before the first expected frost in your region. Planting in the summer gives the cabbage plants enough time to mature when the temperatures have started to fall, since the heat of summer can negatively affect the growth of your cabbage head. Starting in late summer, like August or September, gives your cabbage the best chance of growing sweeter heads for the perfect taste. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! 6 Steps to Plant Fall Cabbage Successfully If you want to add cabbage to your backyard garden for fall, here are the steps to follow for a successful harvest. Check your frost date: You can start to grow cabbage from seed indoors or plant seedlings, but the key to a successful harvest is starting at the right time. Whether you're starting from seeds or an already established plant, you'll want to start at least six to eight weeks before the first frost in your area.Prep your soil: Cabbage grows best in well-drained, organic, loamy soil with a pH between 6.0 and 7.0. Make sure your in-ground garden or container is prepped with these soil needs before planting your seeds.Plant: If you're starting your seeds indoors, dig a shallow hole in your soil at least 1/4 inch deep and then insert your seeds before covering them up with soil. For direct sowing in-ground, dig a hole large enough for the root ball (about twice as big as the root ball's size) and then insert the plant into the ground.Water/sunlight: To grow your planted cabbage plant successfully, make sure it gets the required watering and sunlight. Cabbage plants need consistent watering where the soil remains moist but not overwhelmed with water, and at least six hours of direct sunlight every day.Add fertilizer: Since cabbage needs a lot of nutrients for optimal growth, aim to feed your plants fertilizer every two weeks once the plant is established.Monitor for pests/diseases: Cabbage plants are attractive to some insects like cabbage worms, aphids, and flea beetles. Monitor your plants closely for any pests and remove them if necessary. Also, watch out for diseases like a waterlogged plant that can benefit from improved air circulation and a cut back in watering so the roots don't become damaged. 3 Signs Your Cabbage is Ready to Harvest Credit: Treehugger / K. Dave After all this work for a couple of months, you might be wondering when it's time to harvest. Here are a few signs that indicate your cabbage is ready to harvest for a fall crop. Timing: Depending on your variety, cabbage takes about 60 to 100 days to reach its full, mature size. This equates to two to four months, so if your grown cabbage is within this time window, it's likely time to harvest. Especially if your cabbage fits the rest of the signs on our list.Firmness: Ready-to-harvest cabbages have heads that feel solid and sturdy to the touch. If you squeeze your cabbage head gently and it feels squishy, then it's not ready to pick. If it's ultra firm to the touch, then it's safe to harvest.Appearance: You can also tell if your cabbage is ready to harvest by looking at its size and color. Your seed packet should indicate how big a mature cabbage should measure, so if your cabbage is measuring the same dimensions, it's time to harvest. Another indicator that your cabbage is ready to harvest is if the head sports the color that your variety is supposed to have. How to Harvest and Store Fall Cabbage When it comes time to harvest and store your fall cabbage, you'll want to do so properly to enjoy the plant at its fullest. You will need a sharp knife, like a serrated kitchen knife, or sharp pruning shears to cut the head off the plant. The proper way to cut a cabbage head is to cut at the base of the stem just below the head, leaving some of the leaves attached to the head. Once the heads have been cut, you have a few options for storage. Regardless of which option you choose, don't wash your cabbage plant unless you plan to freeze it. Option one is to store it in a cool place like your refrigerator. Lightly wrap your whole head of cabbage in plastic wrap before storing it in the crisper drawer of your refrigerator. This method will keep the cabbage fresh for up to two months. If you have to cut your cabbage into sections for it to fit, you will need to eat your cabbage within two weeks. You can also store your cabbage in a root cellar up to six months, as long as the environment is cool and damp, or you can freeze it. If you want to freeze your cabbage, follow these steps: Place your cabbage in boiling water for one to two minutes.Remove from boiling water and fully immerse in ice water for a few minutes.Package your cabbage in freezer-safe materials and store for up to nine months. Tip Don't remove your plants after your initial harvest! The plant may produce smaller, secondary heads once the first head is removed, so leaves your plants in the ground for a possible second harvest. FAQ What are the best cabbage varieties for fall harvesting? The best cabbage varieties to grow for a fall harvest are the Savoy, Early Jersey Wakefield, Early Flat Dutch, Red Acre, Napa, and Farao. All of these varieties can handle the cooler climates of the fall until you're ready to harvest. Can I grow cabbage in containers for a fall crop? You can absolutely grow cabbage in containers for a fall crop! Since cabbage plants have a more compact root system than other vegetables, they can grow successfully in containers if you don't have space in your outdoor garden. Source link

[monaleen101]

Dahlias are beloved by gardeners and florists for their large array of glorious colors and delightful flowers that range from miniature pompoms to giant dinnerplates! Flowering from midsummer until the arrival of frost, they add fresh beauty to beds, borders, containers, and window boxes through the dog days of summer – just when other plants start to wear out from summer’s heat. But with over 57,000 registered cultivars worldwide, choosing a selection for your garden can be a challenge. We link to vendors to help you find relevant products. If you buy from one of our links, we may earn a commission. The American Dahlia Society (ADS) categorizes dahlias into three groups on the basis of color, form (or flower type), and size. In our guide to growing dahlias, we cover how to cultivate these beauties. In this guide, we’ll take a look at the different classifications to help you choose the type that’s right for your garden. Here’s what I’ll cover: Dahlia Groups and Classification Color The ADS Color group lists 15 distinct shades or color combinations. Bicolor Bronze Dark blend Dark pink Dark red Flame Lavender Light blend Orange Pink Purple and Black Red Variegated White Yellow With every color available except true blue, you’re sure to find just the right shade for your garden palette. Form There are multiple flower types in the Form group, with different petal structures and bloom shapes. 1. Anemone Anemone (AE) types are distinguished by at least one row of evenly spaced, flat ray petals surrounding a vivid, and often contrasting, pincushion center made of long, tubular florets. They may also be bicolored, as in the case of ‘Polka Dot’ which features cream colored petals edged in dark pink surrounding a bright yellow center. Blooms are four to six inches wide, and plants grow to a mature height of three to four feet. ‘Polka Dot’ You can find bags of two, four, or eight tubers available at Eden Brothers. 2. Ball and Miniature Ball Ball (BA) types are fully double flowers with a slightly flattened globe shape featuring furled, involute (incurved) petals in a gorgeous, spiral arrangement. Petal tips can be blunt, flat, or indented.  Miniature Ball (MB) types have identical flower forms but in smaller sizes. ‘Cornel’ features deep red, cherry-colored, three- to four-inch blooms atop four-foot sturdy stems. The globe-shaped flowers make a dramatic impact in the garden and in cut flower arrangements. ‘Cornel’ You can find bags of two, four, or eight tubers available at Eden Brothers. 3. Cactus, Incurved Cactus, and Semi Cactus Cactus (C) types have long, pointed ray florets with petal edges that are involute (IC), revolute (edges rolled back), or straight (SC), radiating out from an open center in a somewhat spiky look. ‘Black Narcissus’ is a dramatic, moody semi-cactus cultivar with deep red petals that look almost black from a distance. Adding texture, color, and interest to beds and borders, plants top out at two to three feet tall with large, six- to eight-inch blooms. ‘Black Narcissus’ Find bags of two, four, or eight tubers available at Eden Brothers. 4. Collarette Collarette (CO) flowers have a flat, open face with a single outer row of regularly spaced ray florets, an inner collar of shorter petals (petaloids), and a fringed or tight center disk. The inner collar and center disk are often contrasting. ‘Kelsey Anne Joy’ is a superb example of a Collarette dahlia, featuring apricot outer petals, with yellowish-reddish-gold inner petals surrounding a yellow center. Two- to four-inch flowers bloom on stems that grow up to three feet tall. ‘Kelsey Anne Joy’ Eden Brothers carries bags of two, four, or eight tubers. 5. Decorative, Formal and Informal Decorative cultivars are double petaled and open centered, with flat florets that may have a roll at the edges or tips. Formal Decoratives (FD) have evenly spaced petals and a symmetrical flowerhead while informal Decoratives (ID) have twisted or wavy petals in a more irregular arrangement. With five-inch flowers in blushed with soft pink, ‘Sweet Nathalie’ is an Formal Decorative type. Plants grow three to four feet tall, and may require staking. ‘Sweet Nathalie’ Find ‘Sweet Nathalie’ tubers available at Eden Brothers. 6. Laciniated Laciniated (LC) types have uniformly arranged florets radiating from a disk or open center with involute or revolute edges. A lengthwise split at the tips of the petals gives a fringed or “pinked” appearance like that of a carnation. 7. Mignon Single Mignon Single (MS) is an open faced flower with a single row of uniform, slightly overlapping ray florets, in a flat plane surrounding a center disk that can be tightly furled or unfurled into a pincushion. The delicate four-inch flowers are stunning when mass planted in beds and borders, and are available in a variety of colors. Compact plants top out at one- to two-feet tall. Mixed Mignon You can find seeds for D. variabilis in a mixed packet of pinks, reds, yellows, and whites available at Eden Brothers. 8. Novelty, Open and Fully Double  Novelty flowers have characteristics that fall outside of the other classifications. Novelty Open (NO) varieties have a disc center. Fully Double (NX) types have an open center surrounded by double petals. 9. Orchid Orchid (O) types feature open flowers with a single row of uniform ray florets surrounding a tight disk center. The florets are involute for at least two thirds of their length, giving a narrow, rolled effect. Four-inch-wide flowers are light and stand erect atop three-foot stems. 10. Orchette Orchette (OT) types are intricate blooms that combine the involute petal characteristics of the Orchid dahlia with an inner fringe of short petals (petaloids) surrounding a center disk typical of the Collarette form. The petaloids may be flat or slightly curved towards the center of the bloom. 11. Peony Peony (PE) types feature an open flower with two or more rows of flat or slightly cupped ray florets surrounding a center disk of open anthers on short filaments. ‘Bishop of Canterbury’ is a compact Peony type featuring deep magenta-pink petals that surround a dark golden center. Flowers are five to six inches across on three-feet-tall sturdy stems. ‘Bishop of Canterbury’ Find bags of two, four, or eight tubers available at Eden Brothers. 12. Pompom Pompom (aka pompon) types (P) feature an open-centered, fully double flower in a rounded globe shape with rolled, involute florets that are blunt or round tipped. Flowers are beautifully symmetrical with an appealing geometry. ‘Burlesca’ is a coral-pink cultivar with dainty four-inch flowers that look perfectly symmetrical. Flower stalks can be up to three feet tall and may require staking. ‘Burlesca’ You can find ‘Burlesca’ tubers available at Eden Brothers. 13. Single Single (S), is an open faced flower with a single row of regular, overlapping ray florets in a flat plane surrounding a center disk. The petals are flat or slightly cupped with blunt or pointed tips, and the center disk opens to reveal frilly anthers. 14. Stellar Stellar (ST) types are fully double flowers with long and pointed cupped florets that recurve back towards the stem, giving the appearance of a shooting star. Like the Ball types, there is no center disc. 15. Waterlily Waterlily (WL) has fully double, symmetrical blooms with slightly cupped florets that open from a domed center to a saucer-shaped face. Petals are broader and sparser than the Stellar types. Size The third group is Size, classified according to letter values. AA – Giant flowers, measuring over 10 inches in diameter (also known as Dinnerplate) A – Large flowers of 8 to 10 inches (also known as Dinnerplate) B – Medium flowers of 6 to 8 inches  BB – Small flowers that measure 4 to 6 inches M – Miniature flowers up to 4 inches BA – Ball types measuring over 3.5 inches  MB – Miniature Balls of 2 to 3.5 inches  P – Pompoms up to 2 inches  MS – Mignon Single, up to 2 inches !function(f,b,e,v,n,t,s) if(f.fbq)return;n=f.fbq=function()n.callMethod? n.callMethod.apply(n,arguments):n.queue.push(arguments); if(!f._fbq)f._fbq=n;n.push=n;n.loaded=!0;n.version='2.0'; n.queue=[];t=b.createElement(e);t.async=!0; t.src=v;s=b.getElementsByTagName(e)[0]; s.parentNode.insertBefore(t,s)(window, document,'script', ' fbq('init', '176410929431717'); fbq('track', 'PageView'); Source link

[monaleen101]

Echinacea is an easy-to-grow plant that will add a pretty pop of colour to any space. Not only is this plant pollinator-friendly, but it makes for a beautiful cut flower too! Here’s how to plant, prune, and care for coneflowers.  Echinacea has a very special place in my heart and my garden. There’s so much to love about these gorgeous spiky flowers. They are drought-tolerant and won’t complain about poor soil. They are extremely low maintenance once established and produce a ton of eye candy that brings an added pop of colour to the garden. Echinacea also makes wonderful cut flowers, attractive pollinator plants, is an important food source for birds in the winter, and they have medicinal properties to help us build our immunity. With all these wonderful benefits, Echinacea surely deserves a permanent spot in your garden! Jump ahead to… Echinacea comes in a wide range of colours. Coneflower Varieties There are so many hybrid varieties of Echinacea now available. This ornamental seems to be a favourite of breeders as new coneflowers are popping up every year. New varieties are being introduced every year that have new or brighter colours, taller or smaller plants, different growing habits, more prolific blooming, and double blooms. Coneflower can refer to multiple varieties of echinacea. Here are a few new varieties to look out for in garden centres. I was able to see these in person this year through tours and garden trials, and I really love how they have performed. Evolution ™ Fiesta Coneflower – spicy coral petals that fade to a more romantic muted tone as they age. From Monrovia. Evolution ™ Green Eye Coneflower – an enchanting green cone surrounded by pink petals. From Monrovia. Echinacea Sombrero® Sangrita has vibrant red-orange petals and a burgundy flower stem from Darwin Perennials. Note: in my garden, the colour came out much more orange than red. Echinacea Sombrero® Granada Gold has a bright yellow colour that doesn’t fade and a yellow cone that holds some of its hues when dried, making it really nice for dried flower arrangements. From Darwin Perennials. Growing Echinacea Coneflowers are very low-maintenance once they are established. Here are a few things you can do to get them started off right. Starting Coneflower Seedlings I love coneflowers not just for their beauty but for how easy they are to grow. They’re hardy all the way to zone 3, making them a bright and manageable perennial. You can begin sowing Echinacea seeds indoors for 8-10 weeks before transferring them outside. After 10-21 days, they should germinate. You can also direct sow them in early spring or early fall. Seeds should be sown shallowly at approximately 3m (1/8”) deep. Space them out 12-15”. They look stunning when planted in mass! Light Pick a location with the brightest light that you have. Echinacea loves bright light and thrives in full sun. However, the plants will tolerate partial sun as well and still produce plenty of flowers. I have a lot of shade in my garden, and I try to pop in as many coneflowers as I can anyway. They still bloom in the shade but are less floriferous and can tend to flop over. Watering Echinacea is also very easygoing when it comes to watering. Water them well to establish new plants in the garden and encourage deep roots. Once established, they won’t need any supplemental watering unless you are in periods of extreme drought. Coneflowers are known for being drought-tolerant. Coneflower Care Fertilization Coneflowers don’t need any special fertilizers throughout the year. Plant them with some well-rotted compost, and then add compost again in the spring. Follow your normal soil-building strategies, and you won’t have to add any supplemental nutrition for the plants. Propagation Echinacea grows a long taproot, which helps it suck up water from deep down in the soil and gives it that hardiness. This taproot also means that they aren’t a good perennial to divide. Allow the plants to clump, and if you want to plant more, start them from seed, cuttings, or grab a new transplant. Pruning These low-maintenance plants don’t need pruning throughout the year, but you can prune them to increase blooms and extend bloom time. Echinacea is already quite a long-blooming plant, starting in midsummer and going all the way into mid-fall in my Zone 7 garden. If you’re lucky enough to have a large space with a collection of plants, you can really extend the bloom time by cutting back some of the plants in midsummer. Cutting back the plants delays blooming, so you can either cut back all your plants for a late summer and fall display or only cut back some of the plants and stagger the bloom times for an even longer season. Fiskars makes some wonderful pruners that come in handy and cut through the thick stems with very little effort. Should I Deadhead Coneflowers? If you want to increase the size of newer forming blooms, you can deadhead Echinacea. If you follow the stem down to the first set of leaves, you might see flower buds forming. Echinacea bud blooming. Cut just above it to deadhead the plant. This is a perfect time to go in and remove the flower above. Cut the stem right above the new flower growth, and you can add the bloom to a flower arrangement. Deadheading is simply cutting off the older flowers, which encourages the plant to put energy into producing the newer flowers rather than producing seeds on the old flowers. Learn more about deadheading flowers here. Use sharp pruners when deadheading your echinacea. When the second wave of flowers blooms, I keep them in place for fall and winter as the birds LOVE to snack on the seeds. The seed heads dry with a spiky cone above a tall stem. I dry the cut flowers for their seed heads to use in crafts and leave the rest in the garden for winter interest. Leave the flower heads to grow on the plant in the fall. Echinacea Uses Echinacea has been used medicinally throughout the ages. The following information is from Rosemary Gladstar’s Herbal Recipes for Vibrant Health. Echinacea pallida and E. angustifolia are primarily wild Echinacea that can be found on the edges of wooded areas. The most common and easy-to-grow Echinacea for gardens is E. purpurea. These three varieties are most commonly used as medicinal plants. The roots, leaves, and flowers all have healing properties. Echinacea is a powerful immune-system booster that has no side effects and is safe for children, the elderly, and everyone in between. Echinacea is known as a medicinal plant. To use Echinacea as a medicinal plant from your garden, ensure that you are growing an organic plant that has not been sprayed or treated with pesticides or herbicides. The entire plant can be used to make a tincture that’s handy to have around in cold-and-flu season. Take it frequently in small doses at the first sign of a virus, but stop taking it once you get better, as its effectiveness wanes if it’s used too frequently. Pink coneflower. How to Make Echinacea Tea For the tea, you can use the flowers, leaves, roots, or stems of the plant. I like to use the flower petals and leaves. Harvest your coneflowers when the flower heads are fully mature. You can choose to use either fresh or dried Echinacea. If using fresh, you’ll need 2 tbsp of the flower. For dry, you’ll need 1 tbsp. Let your Echinacea steep in boiling water for 15 minutes. Then, strain the flowers, roots, or leaves from the pot and drink away. If you’re making herbal tea for the first time, read this guide to making homemade herbal tea first. Use any part of the plant to make a herbal tea. Frequently Asked Questions About Echinacea Do coneflowers spread? Coneflowers spread by self-seeding. In the fall, if you leave the seed heads, some will drop. Tons of wildlife enjoy these seeds, so most will get eaten up. Whatever doesn’t may germinate the next spring. If you wish to stop the seeds from spreading, simply deadhead the spent blooms in the fall. Are coneflowers perennials? Echinacea is an extremely hardy plant that acts as a perennial in most zones. It flourishes in zones 5-8, but can also be grown as low as zone 3. Higher zones will benefit from the drought tolerance of the plant, but may stillneed some supplemental watering. When do coneflowers bloom? Coneflowers will bring plenty of joy to your summer and early fall garden. They bloom from July through September. Do deer eat coneflowers? Echinacea are considered deer-resistant plants. While deer may occasionally munch on them, they would prefer other plants in the area before eating Echinacea. European wool carder bee on Echinacea More Flowers to Grow A city girl who learned to garden and it changed everything. Author, artist, Master Gardener. Better living through plants. 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[monaleen101]

As gardeners, we want our plants to thrive. However, some plants succeed a little too well, to the detriment of other plants in our gardens and beyond. When such plants escape cultivation and negatively impact the wider ecosystem, they're classified by government agencies as “invasive.” Invasive plants endanger native species, both plants as well as the insects and birds that depend on them. They also decrease biodiversity and degrade agricultural soil quality. According to the United States Department of Agriculture (USDA), invasive species have contributed to the decline of 42% of U.S. endangered and threatened species. Here's what every gardener should know about invasive plants, how they become problems, and what you can do to keep them out of your yard. What Are Invasive Plants? The term "invasive" is often used as a synonym for aggressive growth, like when you ask the nursery staff, “Is this mint plant invasive?” But in legal or statutory terms, invasive means that the plant is a significant, fast-moving threat. The USDA defines an invasive species (including plants and pests) as a non-native species to the ecosystem in question whose “introduction is likely to cause economic or environmental harm or harm to human health” per Executive Order 13112. Some local agencies use the alternate term “noxious” or “noxious weed” in the same way. Invasive species are different from weeds in a home garden. A weed is generally any plant that is growing where it isn’t wanted. Some gardeners may consider a milkweed popping up in a flower bed a weed, but it is a native species and the host plant of the monarch butterfly, so it is by no means an invasive plant. Invasive Species Lists To help keep track of invasive species, the USDA maintains federal, regional, and state lists. For plants specifically, “When we’re looking at what goes on the list, we do a risk assessment,” explains Anne Le Brun, National Policy Manager of the Noxious Weeds Program at the USDA. “We look at different aspects like its ability to establish and spread,” she says. “In growth habit, does it form dense thickets or is it able to climb like a vine? We also look at the reproductive potential of the plant species. If it has a shorter generation time or more ways to reproduce, that gives it the potential to take over an area faster.” Once the Secretary of Agriculture’s office declares a plant invasive on the federal level, it can restrict its sale or transport across state or federal borders through permits and regulations. It works with state forest and agriculture agencies to enforce and manage control plans. How Invasive Plants Get Introduced Sometimes, seeds of invasive plants quietly hitchhike over from other countries in shipping containers, or on the shoes, clothing, and luggage of travelers. The rest of the time, cuttings or seeds are intentionally brought into the country or moved from state to state by individuals before the plants are known to be invasive. A major part of the puzzle is that plants, as well as natural systems, don't always behave predictably. Plants that aren't a problem in one place can quickly grow out of control in another area without the natural competition or environmental limitations found in their native habitats. “When we are talking about invasive plants or pests, we make our best guesses here. Anytime they are in a new place, we are going to learn something new,” Le Brun says. Credit: Susan A. Roth Invasive Landscape Plant Examples There are about 1,000 invasive plant species in the United States. These include shrubs like burning bush, and numerous vines, groundcovers, grasses, and other perennials that were introduced for their ornamental qualities. Some are present in almost every state, and others are limited to a region. Take the Bradford/Callery Pear (Pyrus calleryana) for example. It was once the darling of landscapers and urban planners for its fast growth and abundant spring blossoms, so now it lines countless U.S. streets. Instead of staying small as expected, these trees can grow 40 to 50 feet tall. The branches tend to be weak and prone to dangerous breakage. Plus the flowers have a funky fragrance. These traits alone don't make this tree invasive. But then, the trees began cross-pollinating with other pear species, whose offspring create thorny thickets that smother native plants and habitat. To help slow the spread of the species, some cities will pay you to remove a Bradford pear or provide you with a native tree to plant instead. It is also banned for sale in several states. And while there are now sterile varieties, these reportedly can revert and produce fruit. Cogongrass (Imperata cylindrica) is another invasive plant that stands out for Le Brun because it is extremely tough. “Currently growing in the Southeast, it spreads by wind-dispersed seeds and underground rhizomes. I’ve seen an image where a rhizome penetrated a pine tree root,” says Le Brun. It grows extremely fast, too. In an existing infestation in the Florida panhandle, it spread more than 200 square feet per day in drought conditions. Butterfly bush (Buddleia) (except newer sterile cultivars) and miscanthus ornamental grass (Miscanthus sinensis) are other examples of popular garden perennials that have turned out to be highly invasive, especially if the climate and soil conditions are ideal for their spreading. Tips for Avoiding Invasives in Your Garden Le Brun vets any new plant for her home garden carefully. “I’ve started taking those work lessons with me at the garden center,” Le Brun says. Use these tips to avoid introducing a potentially invasive plant to your garden. Find out how it spreads. Plant tags that say “good naturalizer,” or “reseeds easily” could be red flags. To make sure you aren’t adding a future interloper to your garden, ask the nursery staff how the plant reproduces or research it online. Check state watchlists. Plants can be an issue locally before they are declared invasive or noxious on the federal level, so it’s helpful to check on your state watchlists. Consider similar climates. If the plant isn't on your state list, “Try to see how it’s behaved elsewhere,” Le Brun advises, especially in nearby states with climates and growing conditions similar to your garden. Order online cautiously. When ordering plants online, it’s vital to check the source of the plant material, Le Brun stresses. “Check if it’s coming from the U.S. or not, and if it comes from outside the country, check the requirements for importing.” You don’t want to become an unwitting importer of restricted plants. Report potentially invasive species. If you see a plant that has been declared invasive and seems to be new to your area, report it to your state (search for “invasive species reporting” and your state). Source link

[monaleen101]

I’ve always loved a Lemon Drop Martini but since trying this version flavored with vanilla I have to admit that the BEST one is this Lemon Drop Martini with Vanilla Bean! Uniquely made and a truly superior cocktail! This is a post I did a couple of years ago that I decided to publish again for a couple of reasons. I was reminded of this recipe when a neighbor asked if I had a post on the blog for a good Lemon Drop Martini. GOOD? These are absolutely excellent; a fantastic blend of fresh citrus juice and rind with vodka and vanilla bean. A large number of readers have never seen it and that needed correcting; it is SO good. As important? When I went to check out the recipe I was hit with just how awful the photos were. Too awful to represent such a favorite. So I made a batch, took some photos and then invited my neighbor Amy over to share a cocktail with me on the back porch…win-win right? Want to save this recipe? Enter your email & I’ll send it to your inbox. Plus, get great new recipes from me every week! It was 2012 when I was invited to join other local bloggers to participate in a tasting at Denver’s D Bar Desserts. It was a prelude to Tillamook Cheese Loaf Love Tour in Denver that year when four different restaurants featured a specialty burger using Tillamook Cheese. We sampled some Tillamook Cheese, were treated to a tasting of the burger that D Bar Desserts will be making and for me, the highlight of the evening? This…oh my gosh it truly is the Best Lemon Drop Martini! Owned and operated by the husband and wife team of Keegan Gerhard & Lisa Bailey, D Bar Desserts was opened in May of 2008 and has been acclaimed every year since.  You might know Keegan from his many appearances on the Food Network Challenge programs as the moderator or a judge. It’s easy to see why he is successful in those endeavors; his comfort in front of our audience was evident. He was gracious and warm and spent time conversing with everyone there and definitely went out of his way to insure that everything was perfect; especially the food! I’m sure I speak for our entire group; we could not have been more impressed. And then to top it all off with the best Lemon Drop Martini? Perfection. We started outdoors with appetizers including fresh fruit, samples of different types of Tillamook Cheese and a favorite item on the restaurant menu, some amazing Tillamook cheese stuffed dates wrapped in bacon.  Cocktails were served and I am so glad I ordered the Lemon Drop Martini with Vanilla Bean cocktail I’m featuring. This might be one of my most favorite cocktails ever…it is simply a must try. Many thanks to Keegan and his staff for being so gracious and sharing their recipe. They also turned me onto using cake decorating crystals for cocktail rims…so very pretty. Fair warning, those sugar crystals come in multiple colors and are sure to be gracing more of my cocktails down the road; I love them! Denver Burger Week, which ran from June 23 to June 30 of that year featured four local burger hotspots offering a unique burger special featuring Tillamook Cheese. One of my favorite things about the event? The ‘Loafster’ – the most adorable vehicle ever; a retrofitted 1960’s Volkswagen van. If I had known they made these mini versions I might have been scouring the country for one too! We watched as Keegan prepared what he called the KGB 2.0; herbed, cheesy waffles serving as the ‘bun’ for what has to be the most innovative burger I’ve ever had. As he mixed and prepared the waffle mixture; it was the perfect opportunity to wrangle some insight from him on high altitude cooking and much of his theory solidified things I’ve been doing (higher heat is key). Do you want to know how much better I felt when he concurred that angel food cake is HARD to get right here (that of the EPIC fail). I’ll try it again now that I’ve got some tips from an expert who also knows the issues of high altitude; I’ll let you know how that works out. 😉 The waffle ‘bun’ was amazing but it was the combination of all of the elements that really took this burger over the top. Kobe beef, Applewood bacon, lettuce, tomato, caramelized onions, all topped with Tillamook Medium Cheddar Cheese. They were fantastic. I loved it so much I recreated the KGB 2.0 too; if you’ve never had a waffle burger, this would be a good one to try for your first experience! D Bar Desserts made it’s name with desserts; Chef Keegan is an award winning pastry chef so it made sense that his venture would specialize in desserts (though D Bar is more than ‘just’ desserts). Our dessert trio consisted of a luscious chocolate for dipping, a fried pastry that was lovingly referred to as a ‘Chia Churro’ (yes, that’s chia on top!) and an amazing mini creme brulee. That rich chocolate sauce for dipping didn’t hurt either. The creme brulee was fantastic. Much like my attitude towards cheesecake, I like them simple and not filled or flavored with a bunch of other ingredients; that perfectly crisp and lightly burned sugar topping should not have to compete and this one was just perfect. An altogether fabulous evening filled with wonderful people, some new friends and great food. My thanks to both Tillamook and D Bar Desserts. Look at this Lemon Drop Martini; isn’t it spectacular? You can see the flecks of vanilla bean and why I love using the cake decorating crystals for a sugared rim. This Lemon Drop Martini really was a fabulous cocktail; unique in that lemonade is the base instead of lemon simple syrup as well as the inclusion of vanilla bean paste. Both the taste and visual effect of floating vanilla flecks made for the best Lemon Drop Martini I’ve ever had. Loved it. You will be thanking them too for sharing the recipe; this cocktail is divine! UPDATE: Since that evening more than ten years ago I’ve been to visit D Bar Desserts again and left just as impressed. They’ve since moved into new digs and the new place was beautiful and a friend and I had a great time sampling their menu with other locals from the media. Of particular love for both of us were these Fried Brussels Sprouts with Sriracha and Honey Glaze; they were so amazing do make sure you check them out. I’m craving them now too, doggone it! PIN IT! ‘Lemon Drop Martini with Vanilla Bean’ Lemon Drop Martini Barb A luscious lemony and vanilla bean Lemon Drop Martini. Absolutely the best you'll ever have! Prep Time 15 minutes minsTotal Time 15 minutes mins Course Cocktails, Friday CocktailsCuisine American Servings 6 CocktailCalories 162 kcal For the Lemon Drop Mixture¼ cup hot water1 cup sugar1 ½ teaspoons vanilla paste2 lemons½ lime1 ½ cups cold water (use up to 2 cups)For the Cocktail3-4 oz Lemon Drop Mixture1 ½ ounces vodkaTo Rim the Glasslemon slicessugar I prefer large granule cake decorating sugar. To Make the Lemon Drop MixtureBlend 1/4 cup hot water, sugar and vanilla paste in food processor at low speed while you cut fruit in quarters. Stop blender, add cut fruit and cold water to taste (I had large fruit so used 2 cups). Pulse until no large pieces remain; approximately 5 or 6 times (do not over blend because it could create a sour taste). Strain into container and chill.To Make the CocktailRim the edge of a martini glass with lemon juice and dip in sugar.Combine the Lemon Drop Mixture with vodka in a cocktail mixer. Add ice and shake vigorously 10-12 times. Pour into glasses and serve. I didn’t have any vanilla paste on hand so made my own vanilla bean syrup but you can buy the paste online or at Williams-Sonoma stores. Here is how to make the syrup at home: 1/4 cup sugar 1/4 cup water 1 whole vanilla bean, split lengthwise & seeds scraped, pod cut into 1 inch pieces 1 tsp vodka (for preserving) Combine the water & sugar in a small saucepan and bring to a boil. Simmer for 1 to 2 minutes until the sugar is dissolved. Add the vanilla beans and the pods and leave uncovered until cooled. Stir in the vodka and pour into a container with a lid and let steep. Store in the refrigerator. Nutrition FactsLemon Drop MartiniAmount per Serving% Daily Value** Percent Daily Values are based on a 2000 calorie diet. Keyword black vodka, cocktail, lemon drop, martini Source link

[monaleen101]

Ants are small but mighty. Estimates say there are more than 20 quadrillion of them on the planet! This means there are approximately two and a half million ants for every human on Earth. They outnumber us because of their size, efficiency, and colony-forming habits. Though they may seem like a nuisance in the garden, these bugs are beneficial insects and an important part of a healthy ecosystem. They sometimes create problems, like when they farm aphids, but they’re generally good for the environment! Ants aerate the soil, disperse seeds, and recycle organic matter. They’re like the garden’s cleanup crew. They scour the soil for food, shelter, and water. Eradicate them now, and they’ll inevitably return, so it may be better to learn how to live with them than to get rid of garden ants. Are Ants a Problem? Ants are sometimes a problem. They’re generally beneficial, and they help in ways we can’t always see. They create tunnels underground, they eat dead bugs, and they prevent worse pests from entering your garden. Before trying to eradicate them, first determine whether they’re creating problems at all. Types of Ants Pavement ants prefer cracks near sidewalks and patios. There are many different ant species. Some are common in cities, while others prefer living in forests, mountains, and deserts. Odorous house ants, or sugar ants, are the most common indoors, though there are many other types that invade homes and gardens. The worst an ant will do is contaminate your food. Large colonies can escape the garden and enter your home, where they’ll search for sugar, protein, and shelter. These are a problem, as they’ll invade pet food, honey jars, and dirty dishes. Other species are more common outdoors. You’ll find carpenter, fire, and pavement ants depending on the garden’s setup. Some types are native to the U.S., while others are non-native species that migrated to the U.S. and naturalized.  What Ants Do for the Garden Their underground networks improve air and water flow. Like other insects, ants play multiple roles in the garden. Some form underground colonies with vast networks of tunnels. These tunnels allow more air and water to travel to plant roots, which helps them stand tall despite harsh weather and high heat.  These insects also recycle organic matter. Like worms and beetles, they’re an essential part of the garden’s decomposition team. After killing slugs or other pests, leave them in the garden. You’ll notice these ants picking them up and moving them in pieces back to their nests.  Additionally, these bugs disperse seeds! Some plants, like wild ginger, rely on them for seed dispersal. Their seeds have fatty reserves that the insects eat. Once they’re done eating the fats, they leave the seeds to sprout throughout the garden. How to Live with Ants Garden life thrives best when these insects stick around. Living with ants is an easy thing to do. Just let them do their thing! They’ll recycle nutrients, aerate the soil, and disperse seeds. Leave them be for a flourishing, thriving garden during the growing season. Because these bugs are smart and they work together, they can do some surprising things. They farm aphids! Aphids secrete sugars from their bodies, which the insects love to lap up. They’ll move aphids onto plants and cultivate them so they spread in the garden. Most of the time, these insects are harmless outdoors. Killing them may do more harm than good! Pesticides can harm other beneficial insects. And, after you get rid of garden ants, you’ll leave empty space in the garden that pests can come into.  How to Get Rid of Garden Ants If these bugs are farming aphids and taking over your plants, here are some easy ways to get rid of garden ants. Choose targeted solutions over broad-spectrum insecticides to minimize harm to nearby wildlife. And remember, even the most “permanent” solution is temporary. The insects will come back!  Bait Borax baits quietly work by targeting the colony. Baits are a common way to deal with sugar ants, the type that invades your kitchen. Baits containing borax, like those from TERRO® and other companies, are efficient killers. Unlike traps, baits lure these insects with sugary food. Inside the food is borax, which prevents the bugs from processing water and food. The borax slowly interferes with the ants’ digestive systems, allowing them to return to the nest. Once they return, they share the bait with others and spread it throughout the colony. The borax eventually reaches the queen, who consumes the bait and dies shortly after. Other baits work in similar ways, though borax baits are the most common. Technically, they are insecticides, yet they’re not as harmful as sprays and dusts that indiscriminately target many insects. These baits are specific in their targeting, and they’re set up in a way that allows ants to enter while keeping other bugs out. Spray A careful spray keeps pests down without chaos. Sprays are different from baits. They tend to kill whatever they come into contact with, and they’re much more indiscriminate in their effects. They’re also instantaneous, harming the bugs on contact.  Sprays are not recommended for outdoor use. They may persist on the ground, and they may run off with water into new areas you don’t intend them to. They’re also harmful indoors, as their fumes aren’t pleasant to inhale.  If you choose to use sprays, pick ones that target ant species specifically. Avoid broad-spectrum insecticides so you don’t harm your garden’s ecosystem. Find a product in a bottle, or mix the solution yourself and put it into a handheld pump sprayer.  Prevent Ant Infestations Rather than dealing with these bugs after they’ve arrived, you can create hostile garden conditions so they stay away. Destroy their aphid farms, seal your house, and water the garden consistently to keep them at bay. Remove Aphids Keep spraying daily until those bugs disappear fully. Aphids are pesky, but aphids and ants together are incredibly damaging! The bugs help the aphids spread to all your crops. To remove them, spray them off daily with a hose. Use strong streams of water to knock them off. With daily spraying, the insects should disappear over time. It’ll take a week or two of continuous spraying to dislodge them from your crops. Seal Entrances Indoors Seal cracks and holes to block bug entry points. These bugs are nuisances outdoors, but they’re particularly annoying indoors! Keeping them out of the house is more important than keeping them out of the garden. They invade cabinets, pantries, and sugary goods.  Look at your home’s exterior to find holes and crevices. Plug them with putty, and close your windows that are near ant nests.  Don’t Let Potted Plants Dry Out Water plants well to stop bugs from nesting. Have you ever watered your houseplants and watched as hundreds of ants pour out of the pots? This is more common than you’d think! Ant species love the dry soil in potted plants, and they set up their homes inside them. Consistent watering will prevent the insects from creating nests in your houseplants. Use your finger to test the moisture levels in the pots, and water well when it feels dry underneath. Add water with a hose, watering can, or irrigation system.  Key Takeaways Ant populations aren’t typically harmful! They’re beneficial insects in the garden. These crawling critters may be harmful if they’re farming aphids. Look at the populations closely to see if the two insects are interacting with each other. Use baits rather than sprays and dusts to get rid of garden ants, as baits target ant species without harming other insects. Prevent ant species from setting up shop by sealing your home, watering your plants, and spraying off aphids. Frequently Asked Questions Cinnamon won’t get rid of these bugs, but it will confuse them. The smell disrupts their pheromone sensing, which can prevent them from going into certain locations. Like cinnamon, vinegar doesn’t kill these bugs. It disrupts them and prevents them from entering a location. After it dries, it loses its effectiveness. Salt will dehydrate ant populations, but it’s generally not effective. Baits with borax are more effective. Source link

[monaleen101]

1. Understanding the Importance of Caring for Bed Sheets Taking care of your bed sheets is not just about aesthetics or comfort; it also plays a significant role in your overall well-being. Clean bed sheets help reduce allergens, prevent skin irritation, and contribute to better sleep quality. When sheets are well-maintained, they’re less likely to wear out quickly, saving you money in the long run. Plus, they’ll feel much nicer against your skin, adding to the overall sleep experience. Key Points to Remember: Clean sheets contribute to better health. Proper care extends the life of your sheets. Well-maintained sheets enhance sleep quality. 2. Choosing the Right Bed Sheets The first step in taking care of your bed sheets is selecting the right type. Not all bed sheets are created equal; they come in various materials, thread counts, and weaves, each requiring specific care. Material: The material of your bed sheets will determine how you care for them. Cotton sheets are the most common and easy to care for, while linen sheets require more delicate handling. Silk sheets are luxurious but demand specialized care, and flannel sheets are perfect for winter but can pill if not washed properly. Thread Count: A higher thread count usually means a softer sheet, but it also means the sheets are more delicate. Sheets with a thread count of 200-400 are generally durable and soft, while those with a thread count above 600 need extra care to maintain their quality. Weave: The weave of the fabric, such as percale or sateen, affects the feel and durability of the sheets. Percale sheets are crisp and cool but may wrinkle easily, while sateen sheets are soft and smooth but can snag if not handled properly. 3. How Often Should You Wash Your Bed Sheets? Washing frequency is crucial in maintaining the freshness and longevity of your bed sheets. While there’s no one-size-fits-all answer, a general rule of thumb is to wash your sheet sets every one to two weeks. However, this can vary based on several factors. Personal Habits: If you shower before bed, you might stretch to two weeks. But if you sweat a lot at night or sleep with pets, weekly washing is recommended. Health Conditions: Individuals with allergies, asthma, or sensitive skin should wash their sheets more frequently to minimize exposure to allergens. Seasonal Changes: During warmer months, you may need to wash your sheets more often due to increased sweating. Also Read: Why Organic Cotton Bedding is Considered the Best Option 4. Best Practices for Washing Bed Sheets Proper washing is key to preserving the quality and comfort of your bed sheets. Here are some tips to ensure your sheets stay in top condition: Use Cold or Warm Water: Hot water can damage the fibers, especially in delicate materials like silk or high-thread-count cotton. Use cold or warm water to preserve the fabric’s integrity. Mild Detergent: Choose a mild detergent that is free of harsh chemicals. Strong detergents can break down fibers over time, reducing the lifespan of your sheets. Avoid Fabric Softeners: While fabric softeners might make your sheets feel soft initially, they can leave a residue that builds up over time, making sheets less breathable. Instead, add a cup of white vinegar to the rinse cycle to naturally soften your sheets. Gentle Cycle: Always wash your sheets on a gentle cycle to prevent excessive wear and tear. This is especially important for linen sheets or those with a high thread count. Don’t Overload the Washer: Give your sheets plenty of room to move in the washer. Overloading can cause them to twist and stretch, leading to premature wear. 5. Drying Your Bed Sheets Properly Drying your bed sheets correctly is just as important as washing them. Improper drying can lead to shrinkage, wrinkles, and even damage to the fibers. Low Heat: Dry your sheets on a low heat setting. High heat can weaken the fibers and cause shrinkage, especially in natural materials like cotton and linen. Remove Promptly: To avoid wrinkles, remove your sheets from the dryer as soon as they’re dry. If you can’t fold them right away, at least shake them out to minimize wrinkles. Air Drying: If possible, air dry your sheets outside. The fresh air and sunshine can naturally disinfect the sheets and enhance their scent. Just be careful not to leave them out too long, as prolonged exposure to sunlight can fade colors and weaken fibers. Avoid Overdrying: Overdrying can make your sheets feel stiff and can damage the elastic in fitted sheets. Dry until just dry, and if necessary, finish drying them on a clothesline to reduce dryer time. Read Related: The Ultimate Guide to Cooling Bedding for Hot Sleepers 6. Ironing and Storing Bed Sheets Ironing isn’t always necessary, but if you prefer wrinkle-free sheets, it’s best to iron them while they’re still slightly damp. Use a low heat setting for delicate fabrics like silk or a medium setting for cotton. When it comes to storing your sheets, it’s crucial to ensure they are completely dry before folding them to avoid mold and mildew. Store your sheets in a cool, dry place. If you want to keep them smelling fresh, consider placing a sachet of lavender or another dried herb in your linen closet. Folding Tip: To keep your linen closet organized and your sheets wrinkle-free, fold each sheet set together. Place the fitted sheet, flat sheet, and one pillowcase inside the other pillowcase, creating a neat package that’s easy to grab when you need it. 7. Dealing with Stains No matter how careful you are, stains happen. Whether it’s from a midnight snack, a spilled drink, or an accident, here’s how to handle stains on your bed sheets: Act Quickly: The sooner you treat a stain, the easier it will be to remove. Blot (don’t rub) the stain with a clean cloth to remove excess liquid. Pre-Treat: Use a stain remover or a mixture of water and mild detergent to pre-treat the stain before washing. For bloodstains, cold water is essential as hot water can set the stain. Wash as Usual: After treating the stain, wash the sheets following the care instructions for the material. If the stain persists, repeat the process before drying, as drying can set the stain permanently. 8. Tips for Special Fabrics Cotton Sheets: Cotton sheets are durable and can withstand regular washing. They soften over time, but to maintain their texture, avoid high heat during drying. Linen Sheets: Linen is breathable and ideal for warm climates. However, linen sheets are prone to wrinkles and require gentle handling. Air dry them whenever possible to avoid damage. Silk Sheets: Silk sheets are luxurious but delicate. They should be hand-washed or washed on a delicate cycle with a gentle detergent. Avoid direct sunlight when air drying as it can fade the fabric. Flannel Sheets: Flannel sheets are perfect for colder months. To prevent pilling, wash them inside out on a gentle cycle and avoid high heat during drying. 9. Rotating Your Sheets To extend the life of your bed sheets, it’s a good idea to have multiple sets that you can rotate. This way, you’re not washing and using the same set repeatedly, which can cause them to wear out faster. Ideally, you should have three sets per bed: one on the bed, one in the laundry, and one in the closet. Seasonal Rotation: You might also consider rotating your sheets seasonally. For instance, use lightweight cotton or linen sheets in the summer and switch to flannel or silk sheets in the winter. 10. When to Replace Your Bed Sheets Even with the best care, bed sheets won’t last forever. Here are signs it might be time to replace them: Fabric Thinning: If your sheets are becoming thin or transparent in some areas, it’s a sign they’re worn out. Fraying or Holes: Fraying edges or small holes indicate the fabric has weakened beyond repair. Loss of Elasticity: For fitted sheets, if the elastic no longer holds snugly around your mattress, it’s time for a new set. Permanent Stains: If stains or discolorations remain after several washes, it might be time to replace your sheets. 11. Eco-Friendly Bed Sheet Care Taking care of your bed sheets in an eco-friendly way not only helps the environment but can also be gentler on the fabrics, making them last longer. Cold Water Washes: Washing your sheets in cold water saves energy and is less harsh on the fabric. Air Drying: Whenever possible, air dry your sheets. This reduces energy consumption and is kinder to the fabric. Natural Detergents: Use eco-friendly detergents that are free from harsh chemicals and toxins. Repair Instead of Replace: If your sheets have small tears or loose hems, consider mending them instead of buying new ones. When shopping for sustainable sheet sets, crib sheets, and pillowcases at All Cotton and Linen Online Store, look for items crafted from organic cotton, bamboo, or other eco-friendly materials. Prioritize products certified by reputable organizations such as GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard) or OEKO-TEX, which ensure the fabrics are free from harmful chemicals and produced with minimal environmental impact. Check for details on the store’s commitment to ethical manufacturing practices and consider options that offer durability and comfort, ensuring that your choices are both gentle on the planet and on your skin. Source link

[monaleen101]

The common cold doesn’t stand a chance against echinacea. This powerful plant has been used for centuries to combat viruses and bacteria, and remains one of the most influential herbal plants today. Learn all about echinacea benefits and uses, and how you can use echinacea to boost your immunity, straight from the source. Echinacea would win an herbal popularity contest in a landslide. It’s quickly made its way into the mainstream, becoming a pill or tincture you can buy at the same time you grab your milk and bread from the grocery store. But I wonder how many people know that echinacea is actually a powerful plant with a deep history. Or one that seed-eating birds and pollinating insects love to snack on and visit. Echinacea will grow on poor land, survive droughts, and still produce long-blooming flowers. As you can tell, I’m a big echinacea fan. Today, I’m going to dive into why we know echinacea as an immune system powerhouse, and how you can utilize it to its fullest strength this cold and flu season. This guide will focus on the medicinal species, but there are nine different echinacea species. Meet the Echinacea Flower Also known as the coneflower, echinacea is part of the Asteraceae family (the daisy family). It’s Native to North America, including Saskatchewan, Manitoba, New Mexico, Texas, and Louisiana, where it grows in prairies and amongst woodlands. Echinacea are distinct from other daisy-like flowers thanks to their large, cone-like center. They have a bristly center and hairy leaves, giving them a notable texture. They grow as perennials with a long tap root. There are nine echinacea species, but only three are used medicinally. The Echinacea purpurea (purple coneflower) and Echinacea angustifolia (narrow-leaved coneflower) are the most popular medicinal species, while the Echinacea pallida (pale purple coneflower) is used by some. While there are some beautiful hybrid varieties, like ‘Sunset’ or ‘Sunrise’, I wouldn’t consider them to be medicinal. They might have different constituents in them and have been bred for different qualities.   To learn more about how to grow and care for these wonderful plants, both medicinally and as ornamentals, be sure to check out my echinacea growing guide. Echinacea flowers typically bloom for several weeks. History of Echinacea The word echinacea comes from the Greek word for echinos, which can translate to sea urchin or hedgehog…two very different creatures! In this case, it refers to the prickly and spikey cone head. Echinacea has been traditionally used by the North American Plains People for over 400 years, and we have them to thank for the incredible popularity of this herb. They called the plant elk root after they observed sick and injured elk eating it. The indigenous people used echinacea for many reasons, but most notably used it to treat cold symptoms (unlike today, where we more often use it to prevent cold symptoms). Other notable uses include helping to dispel mucus, relieve insect and snake bites, alleviate burns, and assist with dental cavities. By the late 1800s, echinacea was the most common herb used in the US. It was slowly introduced to Europe and European-American physicians, where it continues to be used today. Native to North America, echinacea is an important herb for indigenous people. Echinacea Benefits Echinacea is marketed as THE cold and flu herb, and for good reason. It’s known first and foremost as a detoxicant for the circulatory, lymphatic and respiratory systems. AKA it’s an immunity superhero. Echinacea is antimicrobial, analgesic, and anti-inflammatory, working best as an anti-viral. When echinacea makes direct contact with a virus, it helps to strengthen the mucus and prevent the virus from going deeper into the issue. It has a notable tingling sensation. Echinacea works best at addressing a virus ahead of time. People can use it when they first feel the slightest symptoms or have been around someone who was sick to prevent a virus from getting worse. However, it’s less helpful at treating colds once established. Many more studies need to be done on echinacea and its use. Some studies show how well it works, while others are inconclusive. But there are so many factors to consider, including what species they use, what part of the plant, what dosage, etc. I trust in the knowledge passed down from generations and the firsthand experience of its effectiveness! Antioxidant, Anti-Inflammatory, and Inhibitor Echinacea is known as an anti-inflammatory, being used to reduce swelling and help with chronic pain. It’s also high in antioxidants, most notably in the flowers and leaves. It’s also been suggested that these antioxidants can help to improve blood sugar. One lesser-known use can be dated back to the indigenous people and their use of echinacea to treat snake bites. Echinacea can inhibit hyaluronidase enzymes, which are known to break down hyaluronic acid in our connective tissues and skin. Echinacea can prevent this from happening, helping to hold onto that hyaluronic acid in our tissues and prevent the spread of the enzymes. How to Use Echinacea Echinacea is known first and foremost as an immune booster and is readily available in Western medicine. You can get it in drops, tinctures, syrups, and pills, all available at your local grocery store or herbal store. I went to this amazing talk on the medicinal properties of plants, and during the discussion, they noted that these commercial products aren’t as effective as utilizing the actual plant. Why? There is so much that we still don’t know about how these plants work together. It may not be just the medicinal property that we need, but a constituent in the plant that helps to activate the medicinal effect on people. And they haven’t figured out that puzzle piece yet. So while you can take echinacea as an herbal supplement and suck on the lozenges when you have a cold, it won’t have the same effect as growing the medicinal plant and making a tincture yourself. There are many opinions on which type of echinacea is better to use, and whether the roots or the fresh juice of the flowers and leaves is better. Most people use either the juice of the aerial parts of E. purpurea or the root of E. angustifolia. I prefer to use the root of E. purpurea.  For me, it is the strongest and grows best in my garden, but determine what is best for yourself and what’s the most readily available in your area. If you’re buying echinacea commercially, be sure to purchase from reputable brands. Multiple studies (like this one or this one) have shown that some brands contain very little or even no echinacea. It should make a tingling sensation on the tongue. If it doesn’t, it’s not potent enough to be of use. Some people prefer to use the aerial parts of the plant, while others prefer the root. Harvesting Echinacea Sustainably Since echinacea prefers prairies and open grassland, it is considered at-risk due to habitat loss from agricultural use. It’s best to grow your own rather than forage for it. If harvesting roots, they’re best harvested in the fall after the first frost. You can then dry the root for use. To make juice from the leaves and flowers, they’re best harvested during the summer when they are in full bloom. If using the flowers and leaves, they’re best used fresh as they lose potency when dried. Only harvest organically grown echinacea if you plan to use it for medicinal purposes. Medicinal Uses The roots are commonly used to make a tincture, just in time for cold and flu season. I explain exactly how to make your own tincture in this post. Use tinctures to help boost your immunity. Make direct contact with the back of your throat, making sure you feel that tingling sensation to know that it’s working. You can also use the plant topically by grinding the herb and mixing it with water before placing it on the affected area. Of course, echinacea is also a very popular herbal tea. I explain how to make it in a tea in this post. Note that echinacea has shown signs of potential efficacy when overused. Take echinacea for 10-14 days and then take a short break. Echinacea should cause a tingling sensation when ingested orally. Other Non-Medicinal Uses I also wanted to shout out some of the other ways that I use echinacea besides its medicinal properties and as an ornamental garden plant. I love to dry the flower petals and use them in soap. They retain their purple colour beautifully and are always easy to dry. I also use the flower heads in dried arrangements. The petals will curl and look nice on their own, but you can also pull them off and embrace the spike cone in the center. Dried echinacea petals are used to decorate the top of this swirl soap. I’ve covered a lot here on echinacea, so I’ll leave it at that! Be sure to check out my growing guide or tincture guide for more information. If you have any questions, feel free to leave them in the comments below. More Helpful Tips for Echinacea A city girl who learned to garden and it changed everything. Author, artist, Master Gardener. Better living through plants. Source link

[monaleen101]

PinYour garden is begging for these life-changing hacks, and you probably have everything you need sitting in your kitchen right now!The secret most plant experts won’t tell you is that the most powerful garden transformations come from the most unexpected places.Here’s a shocking statistic: 67% of gardeners throw away items daily that could triple their plant growth.Those eggshells you toss? That rice water going down the drain? They’re liquid gold for your struggling plants!I was amazed to discover that professional gardeners have been quietly using these household “waste” items for decades.Today, I’m spilling all their secrets. Get ready to become the gardening genius your neighbors will be asking about!1. Boost Plant Growth with Boiled Egg WaterStop pouring this miracle elixir down the drain! After boiling eggs, that calcium-rich water is like a protein shake for your plants. This nutrient-packed liquid strengthens cell walls and promotes explosive growth.PinLet it cool completely, then watch your plants thrive like never before. It’s like giving your garden a vitamin injection!2. Enhance Soil Quality with Used Coffee GroundsYour morning coffee ritual just became your garden’s best friend. Used coffee grounds are the ultimate soil transformer. They improve drainage, boost water retention, and pump nitrogen directly into your soil.Simply sprinkle them around your plants like you’re seasoning a gourmet meal. Your plants will thank you with lush, vibrant growth that’ll make your neighbors jealous!3. Strengthen Roots with Rice WaterThat starchy rice water you’ve been wasting? It’s a root-strengthening powerhouse packed with vitamins and minerals. Think of it as a protein smoothie for your plant’s foundation system.Use it regularly and prepare to be shocked by the robust root development. Strong roots equal spectacular above-ground results!4. Cinnamon to Prevent FungusThis kitchen spice is your seedlings’ bodyguard! Cinnamon’s antifungal properties create an invisible shield against damping-off disease – the silent killer of young plants.Sprinkle it on the soil like fairy dust when planting seeds. It’s the game-changer between seedling success and heartbreaking failure.5. DIY Drip Irrigation SystemForget expensive irrigation systems! A simple plastic bottle with holes poked in the cap becomes your plants’ personal water butler. This brilliant hack delivers consistent moisture exactly where roots need it most.PinBury it near plant roots, fill with water, and watch this slow-release system work its magic. It’s like having a gardening assistant that never takes a day off!6. Vinegar as a Natural Weed KillerYour salad dressing ingredient is actually a ruthless weed assassin! The acetic acid in vinegar dries out weeds on contact, and it’s completely chemical-free.Spray it on a sunny day and watch those stubborn weeds surrender. Mother Nature’s own weed killer has been hiding in your pantry all along!7. Hydrogen Peroxide Plant RevivalWhen your plants are on death’s door, this medicine cabinet hero swoops in for the rescue! Hydrogen peroxide oxygenates soil and combats deadly root rot like a plant paramedic.Mix one part peroxide with ten parts water. It’s the difference between plant funeral and plant resurrection!8. Mulching for Moisture RetentionThis simple covering technique is like giving your soil a cozy blanket that works overtime. Mulch retains moisture, suppresses weeds, and regulates temperature while slowly feeding your soil as it decomposes.Use straw, wood chips, or leaves. Your plants will experience the garden equivalent of a luxury spa treatment!9. Eggshells for Calcium-Rich SoilThose breakfast leftovers are pure calcium treasure! Crushed eggshells release calcium slowly, preventing the dreaded blossom end rot that destroys tomatoes and peppers.Think of eggshells as slow-release calcium supplements for your plants. Strong cell structure equals healthier, more productive plants!10. Baking Soda for Sweeter TomatoesThis baking essential can actually make your tomatoes taste like candy! By reducing soil acidity, baking soda creates the perfect pH environment for incredibly sweet tomatoes.PinSprinkle small amounts around tomato bases. It’s like adjusting the seasoning in your garden’s recipe for success!11. Natural Pest Control with Neem OilThis powerful natural pesticide disrupts pest life cycles without harming the good guys. Neem oil is like a bouncer for your garden – it kicks out the troublemakers and protects the VIPs.Dilute with water and dish soap, then spray away aphids and spider mites. Your plants get protection without toxic chemicals!12. Epsom Salt for Greener LeavesThis bathroom staple is actually magnesium sulfate – the secret ingredient for photosynthesis supercharging! Magnesium-deficient plants look pale and sad, but Epsom salt brings back that vibrant green glory.Dissolve in water and apply every few weeks. Watch leaves transform from lackluster to absolutely stunning!13. Composting for Richer SoilTurn your kitchen scraps into black gold! Composting transforms waste into the most nutrient-dense soil amendment possible. It’s like creating a gourmet meal for your soil organisms.Fruit peels, vegetable scraps, and grass clippings become the foundation of garden success. Your plants will flourish in this homemade paradise!14. Fish Emulsion for Nutrient BoostThis potent organic fertilizer is like a protein shake for plants! Rich in nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, fish emulsion delivers explosive growth results that synthetic fertilizers can’t match.Dilute and apply every few weeks. The smell might be strong, but the results are spectacular!15. Aloe Vera as Natural Rooting HormoneThat sunburn soother on your windowsill is actually a rooting miracle worker! Aloe vera gel contains natural enzymes that encourage root development while protecting against nasty pathogens.PinDip cuttings in aloe gel before planting. It’s nature’s own rooting hormone that actually works!16. Companion Planting for Pest ManagementStrategic plant partnerships create a natural defense system in your garden! Marigolds with tomatoes repel nematodes, while basil improves tomato flavor and deters flies.It’s like creating plant friendships that benefit everyone. Your garden becomes a balanced ecosystem that protects itself!17. Garlic Spray for Pest ControlThis kitchen staple creates an invisible force field around your plants! Garlic’s powerful scent repels insects like aphids and caterpillars without harming beneficial bugs.Blend garlic with water, strain, and spray. It’s like giving your plants their own pest-repelling bodyguard!18. Rainwater Harvesting for Sustainable GardeningFree, chemical-free water falling from the sky? Yes, please! Rainwater lacks the chlorine and chemicals found in tap water, making it the premium choice for plant health.Set up a rain barrel and watch your water bill shrink while your plants thrive on nature’s perfect hydration!19. Use of Seaweed Extract for Plant GrowthThis ocean treasure provides micronutrients that supercharge plant development! Seaweed extract enhances root growth, improves stress tolerance, and boosts overall plant vitality.Apply as a foliar spray or soil drench. It’s like giving your plants a mineral-rich spa treatment from the sea!20. Homemade Fertilizer with Banana PeelsThose smoothie leftovers are potassium powerhouses! Banana peels provide potassium, phosphorus, and calcium – the holy trinity of plant nutrition.PinChop and bury near plants, or create banana peel tea. Your plants will reward you with incredible growth and abundant blooms!The game-changer for your garden isn’t expensive equipment or fancy fertilizers – it’s recognizing the incredible potential hiding in your everyday household items.These 20 hacks will transform your struggling plants into the thriving garden paradise you’ve always dreamed of! Source link

[monaleen101]

Butterflies aren’t just beautiful, they are also helpful pollinators that will help our gardens thrive. Attract them to your yard with this butterfly feeder project. It’s an easy DIY project that will help keep your garden flourishing all year long.  Butterflies are magical creatures that grace us with their beauty. Their bright colours are a welcome addition to any garden. As with bees, they are essential pollinators. In fact, a butterfly’s lifecycle requires them to have host plants and food plants for pollination. Butterflies will keep your garden thriving and add a pretty pop of colour to your space too. How do you attract them to your yard? There are many plants that they love, but an easy way to attract butterflies to your garden is to make a butterfly feeder. If you’re looking for an extra way to support the butterflies in your garden, then follow these steps to make a butterfly feeder. Butterflies love bright, warm colours. How to Make a Butterfly Feeder This simple DIY will keep butterflies coming to your yard month after month. Plus, the butterfly feeder is a pretty addition to your yard too. Here’s how to make one, step by step. Butterfly Feeder Supplies Plate – Any type of plate will do. The plate I used is shaped like a hibiscus flower. There are notches where the “petals” connect, making it easier to fit in the macrame-style holder. If you plan to use a round plate, you will also need to get a wall mount plate holder. Mason line or twine – I used mason line to hang my feeder. I used it because it’s made from a synthetic material that will not deteriorate as fast as natural twine. The feeder will hang outside in an area with little shelter and I wanted to make sure the rope holds through the whole season. Washer (or another metal ring) Beads – The beads are optional. I like the way they dress up the feeder. Butterflies delight us with their beauty, so I decided to make this feeder extra pretty for them. Get an inexpensive plate from the thrift or dollar store. Make it! First, cut 5 lengths of mason line about 3 feet long. I used 5 pieces of string because I have 5 petal notches on my plate. If you are using a round plate with a wall hanger, you should only need 4 lengths of string. Loop the pieces of string through the metal ring and tie a double knot. Do not worry about the ends at the moment. If you are using beads, add them about 12 inches from the top. Make sure the beads all line up evenly. Then, tie a knot underneath each bead. The beads are optional, used as decoration only. Tie all the strings together about 6 inches down from the beads. Cut the excess mason line a half inch from the knot. Use a lighter or flame from a candle to lightly melt the edges of the strings. I melted mine all the way back to the base of the knot. Do this to the knot that’s securing the metal ring, too. This will keep frays at bay and help keep the knot from slipping. Melt the ends of your string with a lighter. Set the plate in the holder and hang it up in a sunny place in your garden. Then, add some butterfly food and watch them eat. I added lemons, melon, and flowers to my butterfly feeder. What Do Butterflies Eat? Butterflies feed on nectar (sugar from a plant). So, fresh fruits work very well as butterfly food. You can also make nectar from honey and water, but I think it’s less messy to add some fruit to the plate. Butterflies are attracted to red, yellow, orange, pink, and purple colours, so keep that in mind when selecting fruit. If you are worried about ants getting in on the feast, you can add a bit of water to the dish as a deterrent. Orange slices work great as butterfly food. Tips for Attracting Butterflies A butterfly feeder is only one way to attract butterflies to your garden. If you want to keep them really happy, you will need to have plants that serve the needs of all the life stages of the butterfly. Adults need nectar, a safe place to lay their eggs, food for their larvae and a place to form chrysalides (cocoons). In addition to the right plants, butterflies like full sun, a place to rest their wings, and a place to drink. An easy way to create a butterfly sanctuary is to plant bright flowers that love full sun, add a flat rock to the garden for the butterflies to bask, and put a small, shallow pan of water out for them to drink. You can read more about how to make a butterfly garden here. Include plants in your garden to sustain butterflies during each life stage. Butterfly-Friendly Plants You really cannot go wrong with any type of brightly coloured flower for butterflies. However, remember that the plants must support the larvae and cocoons as well. There are many butterfly-friendly plants, so the chances are you can find a few that will suit your growing zone. Here’s a list of some plants that will attract butterflies to your garden: Butterflies aren’t attracted to blue, so include lighter shades of purple instead. Find out more about why some butterflies love milkweed and how to grow it in your garden here. In addition to having a pretty flower garden, you can attract these lovely pollinators at the same time, a perfect garden partnership. Now, don’t forget about the bees! Here is how to attract them to your garden (and a bee bath project that the butterflies will love). Butterflies and bees aren’t the only beneficial insects you want in your garden! Find out about the 7 best bugs for the garden. More Ways to Support Pollinators How to Make a Butterfly Feeder Keep these pretty pollinators active in your garden with this simple DIY butterfly feeder. Cut 4 pieces of mason line into 3 foot sections.Loop the pieces through the metal ring and tie with a double knot. Add beads to the line about 12" from the top, lined up evenly. Tie a knot under each bead to keep in place.Tie all the strings together about 6" underneath the beads, then cut the excess line about 1/2" away from the knot.Do the same to the knot that's holding the metal ring too to prevent fraying. Add your plate and hang it in a sunny place in the garden, topped with butterfly food. Debbie Wolfe is a mom of two rambunctious boys, wife, and work-at-home mom from Georgia. In her free time (when there is such a thing), she is in the garden or hidden away reading the latest post-apocalyptic sci-fi drama! As interests, Debbie is an obsessive crafter, home chef, and gardener. She is a freelance writer, blogger, and is a co-author and photographer behind the garden blog, The Prudent Garden; a collection of tips, crafts, and articles that highlight home gardening. Source link

[monaleen101]

Hi GPODers! Few can pick up a paintbrush for the first time and recreate a Picasso in the same afternoon. Even fewer could try piano as a beginner and finish their first session with a perfect rendition of Beethoven. However, many can pot up some pretty plants and instantly create something spectacular where there once was nothing. This is not to downplay the amount of work that goes into gardening but to emphasize how a low barrier to entry makes this pastime accessible and easy to get hooked on. With a little research, trial, and error, you’re on the fast track to building beautiful beds that you’re constantly tweaking and upgrading. This is exactly the case for Jennifer Furan in Eden Prairie, Minnesota. She is a newer gardener, really getting into it after moving to her current home in 2021. In that short amount of time, she has done a lot of work to create an incredible garden with some seriously beautiful plants, as if this were a hobby she has been mastering for decades. Hi GPODers! I’m a relatively new gardener, having moved to our current home in Eden Prairie, Minnesota in 2021. I garden in Zone 4b/5a on a suburban lot that’s about one-third of an acre. Our first task was to remove overgrown and unkempt junipers that surrounded the property at the borders, much to the neighbors’ delight. Then the tough part began: what to do with all of the suddenly empty garden beds. Year one was spent just doing my best to manage the weeds. Year two, I filled the space in with easy-care annuals, while I figured out this whole gardening thing. After hours of researching and listening to podcasts, of course, including Let’s Argue About Plants, I finally felt confident enough to start putting in perennials and shrubs. I’m sharing some pictures of my progress in the last two years. The part-shade area of the back garden is a garden bed we share with the neighbors behind us. ‘Sun King’ aralia (Aralia cordata ‘Sun King’, Zones 4–8) has grown significantly in two years, with a ‘Euphoria Ruby’ Joe Pye weed (Eutrochium purpureum ‘FLOREUPRE1’, Zones 5–9) in front of it, which is in bud for the upcoming fall weather. To the right is ‘Brilliance’ autumn fern (Dryopteris erythrosora ‘Brilliance’, Zones 4–9) with heart-leaved golden Alexanders (Zizia aptera, Zones 3–8) from a local native plant nursery. The ‘Sun King’ aralia always catches my attention as I glance out the kitchen window while washing dishes, and never fails to put a smile on my face. The best part of improving the garden spaces in our yard is the many visitors we are graced with each day. This swallowtail butterfly loved the ‘Jeana’ garden phlox (Phlox paniculata ‘Jeana’, Zones 4–8) that recently started blooming this season. I’ve quickly found the need to spontaneously create new garden spaces because I’ve run out of places to put new plants. And while I wait for plants to bulk up, this year I added annual verbena (Verbena bonariensis, Zones 7–11 or as an annual) to help fill in the space. The monarchs and bumblebees have particularly loved this addition. From back to front and left to right: ‘Summer Wine’ ninebark (Physocarpus opulifolius ‘Seward’, Zones 3–7), ‘Blackhawks’ big bluestem (Andropogon gerardii ‘Blackhawks’, Zones 3–9), Verbena bonariensis, Rock ’N Grow® ‘Midnight Velvet’ sedum (Sedum ‘Midnight Velvet’, Zones 3–9), and ‘Ogon’ spirea (Spiraea thunbergii ‘Ogon’, Zones 4–8). Last spring I took on the perhaps ill-advised task of converting a 60-foot-long and 20-foot-deep area of grass along the road into a new garden space. The impetus for this was that I was tired of repairing this area each spring and trying to grow grass that never took in this full-sun space with the radiant heat from the black pavement street. I put in a mix of plants native to my area and ornamentals. It has been fun to see the pollinator activity. Gardening in the front yard resulted in a lot of questions from neighbors who didn’t necessarily understand what I was doing. In this second year, those same neighbors have transitioned to complimenting how the garden is looking. Butterfly weed (Asclepias tuberosa, Zones 3–9, left), ‘Montrose White’ calamint (Calamintha nepeta ‘Montrose White’, Zones 5–9, right), with purple poppy mallow (Callirhoe involucrata, Zones 4–8, in front) Also in this new front yard garden: ‘White Swan’ coneflower (Echinacea purpurea ‘White Swan’, Zones 3–8) with our native pearly everlasting (Anaphalis margaritacea, Zones 3–8) Another view of this front garden: ‘White Swan’ coneflower backed up with old field goldenrod (Solidago nemoralis, Zones 3–9), New Jersey tea (Ceanothus americanus, Zones 3–8), ‘Summer Romance’ and ‘Pink Cotton’ Candy’ betony (Stachys officinalis ‘Summer Romance’ and ‘Pink Cotton’, Zones 4–8), butterfly weed, ‘Montrose White’ calamint, and purple poppy mallow All of the gardening work has led to me wanting to find ways to relax in the shade. This is a favorite spot under a ‘Whitespire’ birch (Betula populifolia ‘Whitespire’, Zones 3–6) with a new glider bench. I’ve put together a small fountain consisting of a cement outdoor pot filled with large rocks to act as landing perches for birds and pollinators, and adding a solar water pump. It creates the perfect space to relax, especially after a long day working in the garden. Front: ‘Lemon Zest’ Japanese forest grass (Hakonechloa macra ‘HakBri1’, Zones 5–9), hellebores, and FlowerFull smooth hydrangea (Hydrangea arborescens ‘Baiful’, Zones 3–8) Thank you so much for sharing your impressive plantings with us, Jen! It’s clear to see the research you did before purchasing your plants; you’ve amassed some superb specimens that will undoubtably mature into an incredible garden oasis. Just as gardening has a low barrier to entry, Garden Photo of the Day does not have any entry requirements! No matter how much experience you have, what kinds of plants you grow, or what your goals with this hobby are, we would love to highlight your garden. Follow the directions below to submit photos via email, or send me a DM on Instagram: @agirlherdogandtheroad.   We want to see YOUR garden! Have photos to share? We’d love to see your garden, a particular collection of plants you love, or a wonderful garden you had the chance to visit! To submit, send 5–10 photos to [email protected] along with some information about the plants in the pictures and where you took the photos. We’d love to hear where you are located, how long you’ve been gardening, successes you are proud of, failures you learned from, hopes for the future, favorite plants, or funny stories from your garden. Have a mobile phone? Tag your photos on Facebook, Instagram, or Twitter with #FineGardening! Do you receive the GPOD by email yet? Sign up here Fine Gardening Recommended Products Buffalo-Style Gardens: Create a Quirky, One-of-a-Kind Private Garden with Eye-Catching Designs Fine Gardening receives a commission for items purchased through links on this site, including Amazon Associates and other affiliate advertising programs. Buffalo-Style Gardens is a one-of-a-kind, offbeat garden design book that showcases the wildly inventive gardens and gardeners of Buffalo – and offers readers "the best of the best” ideas to use in their own small-space gardens. The Nature of Oaks: The Rich Ecology of Our Most Essential Native Trees Fine Gardening receives a commission for items purchased through links on this site, including Amazon Associates and other affiliate advertising programs. The Nature of Oaks reveals what is going on in oak trees month by month, highlighting the seasonal cycles of life, death, and renewal. From woodpeckers who collect and store hundreds of acorns for sustenance to the beauty of jewel caterpillars, Doug Tallamy illuminates and celebrates the wonders that occur right in our own backyards. He also shares practical advice about how to plant and care for an oak, along with information about the best oak species for your area. The Regenerative Landscaper: Design and Build Landscapes That Repair the Environment Fine Gardening receives a commission for items purchased through links on this site, including Amazon Associates and other affiliate advertising programs. 2024 Nautilus Award Gold Medal Winner! This awe-inspiring guide weaves together permaculture design, food resiliency, climate adaptation, community organizing, and indigenous wisdom that you can implement in your own backyard. Source link