#poiret fashion

[mote-historie]

André-Edouard Marty, detail, Dans le nouveau décor. Manteau, de Paul Poiret, La Gazette du Bon Ton, 1924.

For sale: Edition-Originale.com

[jeannepompadour]

Paul Poiret costumes, photographed by Henri Manuel, circa 1920

[frostedmagnolias]

Evening Dress

c. 1907

by Paul Poiret

Musée des Arts Décoratifs

[gentlyepigrams]

Paul Poiret is usually associated with designs in the early years of the c20th but here is one of his later works, a c1929 evening dress of purple sequinned chiffon. It is an altogether luscious interpretation of the period with a nod to his love of embellishment. Via FIDM Museum.

[chic-a-gigot]

L'Art et la mode, no. 45, vol. 21, 10 novembre 1900, Paris. Costume de chasse en drap "chevreuil". Bibliothèque nationale de France

Costume de chasse en drap "chevreuil". Boléro très court sur une haute ceinture en caoutchouc. Col de velours. Manches demi-longues laissant dépasser les manches d’une chemisette blanche. Guêtres de grosse toile boutonnées sur le devant de la jambe. Petit tricorne de feutre taupé.

Hunting costume in "deer" cloth. Very short bolero on a high rubber belt. Velvet collar. Half-long sleeves leaving the sleeves of a white shirt showing. Gaiters of thick canvas buttoned on the front of the leg. Small tricorn of taupe felt.

[lookingbackatfashionhistory]

• Woman's Dress "Patineur".

Designer/Maker: Paul Poiret (France, 1879-1944)

Place of origin: France

Date: ca. 1921

Medium: Silk satin with silk and metallic-thread supplementary-weft patterning, with fox fur and silk velvet trim.

[resplendentoutfit]

Japanese Insired Coats of the 1910s

Maison Amy Linker • Paris

A coat with a silhouette like an outer robe for kimono was described as a “manteau japonais” by fashion magazines of the time, and the silhouette of this particular coat is reminiscent of the “uchikake” robe worn by kabuki actors or oiran courtesans in ukiyoe prints. The boldly striped collar is probably inspired by the “date-eri” collar style used in kabuki costume. The flower-like motifs executed in embroidered beads look like the traditional “hanakatsumi” motif that became popular in late Edo-period Japan when favored by kabuki actors. In contrast, the motifs on the bordered panel on the back resemble motifs used around the Mediterranean in ancient times, and could reasonably be called palmettes. This coat is an excellent example of oriental-style wear packed with eclectic elements that were fashionable early in the 1910s. Maison Amy Linker opened in Paris in 1900, specializing particularly in coats and suits. Its latest products were frequently seen in French fashion magazines early in the 20th century. The house is perhaps best known for introducing sporty fashions in the 1920s.

Many of the era's most prominent designers created manteau Japonais. Below are a few more examples of Japanese inspired cocoon coats of the era.

Two Paul Poiret Japonaise manteau

Jean-Philippe Worth • c. 1910

Right: Jaques Ducet embellished house coat

Left: Mariano Fortuny kimono coat • 1910s

Evening coat • French • c. 1912

[nemfrog]

"La belle affligée." (The stricken beauty.) Le bon ton d'après-guerre. 1922. Evening gown designed by Paul Poiret.

Internet Archive

[ghw-archive]

ca. 1925 Royal Flush (possibly by Poiret)

[fashionbooksmilano]

La moda

Storia della moda del XX secolo

The Kyoto Costume Institut

Taschen, Koln 2022, 353 pages, 16x22,5cm, ISBN 973 33 536110

euro 35,00

email if you want to buy booksinprogressmilano@yahoo.it

L'abito che indossa una persona, si tratti di un kimono, un sari o un completo da manager, è un fattore essenziale per capirne la cultura, la classe sociale, la personalità e persino l'appartenenza religiosa. Il Kyoto Costume Institute cerca di sottolineare con le sue attività l'importanza di analizzare e comprendere l'abbigliamento dal punto di vista sociale, storico e artistico. Fondato nel 1978, il KCI possiede una delle collezioni di abbigliamento più grandi del mondo e partecipa regolarmente a mostre itineranti in tutto il mondo. La collezione è particolarmente ricca per quanto riguarda l'abbigliamento occidentale femminile del XX secolo, e annovera ogni tipo di abito e accessorio.

02/01/25

[milksockets]

paul poiret evening dress, 1910 in high style: masterworks from the brooklyn museum costume collection at the metropolitan museum of art - jan glier reeder (2010)

[mote-historie]

Georges Lepape, Woman Smelling Flower, Design for a white dress in the 'Hellenic style', Les choses de Paul Poiret, Fashion plate, 1911.

Illustration from Les choses de Paul Poiret vues par Georges Lepape (limited edition number 261).

[alwaysalwaysalwaysthesea]

Paul Poiret wool dress, 1925-26.

(source: Metropolitan Museum of Art)

[paletapessoal]

"Sesostris" evening coat by Paul Poiret, 1923

Red silk velvet, gold laminated black silk satin, gilt leather strap, trimmings in cotton thread and artificial material, black fur, coral crepe and black muslin lining.

[fashionsfromhistory]

Evening Dress

Paul Poiret (French)

Late 1920s 

Fashion Museum Bath via Twitter

[chic-a-gigot]

L'Art et la mode, no. 45, vol. 21, 10 novembre 1900, Paris. Robe de drap gris "zinc". Bibliothèque nationale de France

Robe de drap gris "zinc", garnie de baguettes piquées en même drap, fixées par des boutons d’argent uni, brillant. Pattes à la jupe retenant un très léger retroussis. Un soupçon de dentelle devant et aux poignets. Toque plate en héron blanc.

Dress in "zinc" gray cloth, trimmed with baguettes stitched in the same cloth, fixed by buttons of plain, shiny silver. Tabs on the skirt holding a very slight turn-up. A hint of lace in front and at the cuffs. Flat cap in white heron.