#knitting tips

[tweedlestrove]

a link to a tutorial by Naomi Pankhurst on how to make a really nice hexagon mesh. This blog also has a lot of interesting tutorials, patterns, and other stuff in it that are worth checking out as well.

[lightlyknitted]

Vintage knitting 102: yarn boogaloo

A while ago, I wrote a post about finding vintage patterns online for free. I thought I would do a follow up to that post and explain how to find a substitution for a discontinued or unavailable yarn. It does take a bit of legwork and some math but it does get easier the more you do it.  

In order to make this less complicated to explain, I’m going to use an example pattern to walk you through my method. I am going to use the pattern “Round or Turtle Neck Pullover Pattern #s-108” originally published in Spool Cotton #198, Knit for Victory. You can see the pattern here (x) 

First, what information does the pattern tell you? Well quite a lot actually. For this pattern we’ll need a gauge of 5.5 sts per inch and 7 rows per inch, requiring 1 pair of No. 3 (about a 3.25mm, US 10) and No. 5 (about a 3.75mm, US 9) needles. It is graded for up to a 46 inch chest. It also suggested Chadwick’s Red Heart knitting worsted in 1 oz balls. 

Since this is a vintage pattern, we’ll need to get some basic information about Chadwick’s real quick. With a quick google we find a Ravelry listing for this yarn which tells us it is 100% wool, four ply and is discontinued. Ravelry lists the suggested needle size as US 8. 

According to the Ravelry wraps per inch (wpi) information, this yarn has about 9 which puts it squarely in a DK weight (8-11 wpi) yarn. I know, I know the label says it is worsted but is shaping up to be a DK, vintage wool is notorious for being smaller than modern yarns. So we know we could be working for a DK weight yarn to make this easy. 

So I personally like the Berroco vintage line and they have a DK weight yarn available. It is 100 g/290 yds/265 m and has 5.5 sts per inch. It is an acrylic, wool and nylon blend so if you don’t like that feel free to find another yarn, this will be the one I use for my example. 

As we gathered from the ravelry site the vintage yarn we are subbing comes in one ounce (roughly 29 grams).  So if we are making a size 46 which will cover a 46 inch bust for men. The pattern says we need 25 balls – 25 ounces. Since we’ve got to guess based on the ravelry page that would be about 725 grams (29 grams x 25 balls). 

So for the vintage we would need 8 hanks of the Berroco vintage DK (100 grams / 725 grams rounded up). If possible make a gauge swatch before buying all the yarn (the stores near me with this yarn retail it for 9.50 USD). If needed, size the needles up or down to reach it. 

Good luck and I hope this helps! Happy knitting!

[storybounding]

How To Unravel Thrifted Sweaters For Luxurious Yarn On A Budget!

[itspronouncedtessa]

💛Beaudille💛 Knit patch 92 with me.

I hate purling doubles or triples through the back loop, especially in cotton like this, where there is no give.

It's good to know your stitch geometry, to know what result you're trying to achieve, so you can find alternative ways to get there.

I did the p2tog-tbl for this video, but never again. I'm a ppnso girl all the way.

[clarice-asquith]

This beginner-friendly, textured knit stitch is created through a combination of knit and purl stitches over four rows.

The mock cable effect is achieved by casting on additional stitches on the right side rows. The knit stitch pattern / knitting tutorial is available via my blog.

[continent-of-wild-endeavor]

PSA to newer knitters

bc it seems no one is telling y'all some of this:

You do need to make a gauge swatch, for anything that's meant to fit a human body especially, but also to check whether your yarn + needles combo is going to make the kind of fabric you want. If they don't, you need to do it again with another needle size, and check that, regardless of whether the pattern says you're already using the "right" size. Yes, even if you're using exactly the same yarn the designer did.

The swatch needs to include whatever major techniques are in the project. If it's got big sections of stockinette and of garter, you need to swatch both. If parts of the project are knit in the round and parts worked flat, you need to swatch both. Many people's knit & purl gauges are very different!

If it's heavily cabled, you need to do a swatch of the cable pattern, several repeats both wide and tall. Lace? Swatch a big chunk of that lace pattern. Stranded colorwork? Dear gods yes, swatch the actual designs involved, as well as plain stockinette. It's not going to be the same.

Your swatch should be significantly bigger than the area you need to measure, in each technique. So if the pattern says the gauge is 15 stitches and 20 rows for 4", you need to cast on at least 22-24 stitches and work 30+ rows. More than that, if you're not sure your yarn is the same size as the one the designer used.

Using the actual cast-on from the project is a good idea, because it lets you practice it and also see how it interacts with the fabric growing out of it, but it's not going to be part of the gauge measurement. Same goes for any edge treatment/selvage stitches and your bindoff. You'll be measuring a 4" square in the middle of the work, so your math isn't thrown off by distorted stitches near any edges.

Oh, and you need to block your swatches. Ideally in whatever way you'll wash the finished object (good way to check if that yarn really is superwash!) but at least get it soaking wet, squeeze it out, and let dry flat. Don't stretch or hang it unless you'll do that every single time you get the garment damp (lace swatches obvs can/should be stretched for blocking), just let it dry. Now measure it, carefully. Measure in a couple places, and average your results.

I could write a bunch of caveats & exceptions, and no, I don't actually do all of this every time I sit down to knit a sock. I just start the toe & measure once I get going, & decide how many stitches I'll need then. But A) I've made 20+ pairs of socks in the past few years and B) if I'm super wrong & have to unravel 6" of sock, so what? But you do not want to finally get through a complicated sweater yoke, reach the underarms, and try it on, only to find you were way off. Or wash a finished garment & find it grows 3 sizes, or the fabric opens up so much you can see right through it and it hangs wrong. Heaven forbid you steek something before you realize it's the wrong size.

Also, experience. The more you have, the more corners you can cut - but never all of them! And if you're fairly new to the craft, or just to a certain technique, you don't yet know which corners are essential.

I know proper swatching can feel like a waste of time, and yarn. But the yarn is usually recoverable, and the time is worth it.

[knitproeu]

Mastering Dropped Stitches: Learn How to Fix Them and Harness Them as a Technique

Embark on a knitting adventure as we unravel the mystery of dropped stitches! From easy fixes with utility tools to exploring stunning design elements like "Feather and Fan" and brioche patterns, knit unique and textured fabrics. Turn dropped stitches into unique and professional creations as you dive into this fascinating craft-tastic knitting adventure.

Visit: https://www.knitpro.eu/blog/how-to-fix-a-dropped-stitch/en

[measuredandslow]

Removable pom! And handdyed hats ☺️ (which you can buy!)

[affreca]

Also, if you are using interchangeable needles, you can use the tightening keyhole for the lifeline. Then you can place the lifeline as you knit that row, which I find a time saver.

In intricate patterns, such as cables, brioche and lace, it’s a good idea to make ex ante lifelines every now and then, e.g. every pattern repeat, just in case you need to redo a section.

I like to use unwaxed dental floss, but you can use any thin and slippery yarn. As always, use a thinner needle to rescue the stitches.

Hopefully, you won’t need to use the lifelines, in which case, you merely need to pull them out when your work is done.

And remember: undoing, frustrating as it may be, is an essential part of the creative process

Happy knitting 🧶

[runixa]

Hey knitters.

When you do colorwork and thare are two rows in only a single color do you keep carrying the other thread through those rows? Or do you drop it and then pick it back up after them?

[tweedlestrove]

here's a couple of videos on different ways to do the continental knitting style vs the english knitting style which is more common. It's supposed to be easier on the hands so I'm definitely curious on giving this one a try.

[more-like-gayther]

i like to put a long piece of scrap yarn through the row i'm frogging to, and then when it's done you have scrap yarn holding your stitches in place + nothing dropped :))

frogging crochet is a pleasant experience and frogging knit work is the worst pain imaginable

[merindab]

I have a couple sets of these. They’re small and easy to toss in your project bag or a storage tin and since there’s 3 on a loop easier to keep track of.

@callmebliss