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Samurai's ranks and dress code in Late Edo period
AMAZING reference chart put together by Nadeshico Rin, showing the different attires worn by the men of the buke class in and about Edo Castle. OP stresses the chart is by no means exhaustive - but it helps picturing things SO MUCH!
For easier reading, I have adapted the chart with english translation. Rin has also created illustrations detailing each attire, I'll translate those in coming days under the tag "samurai kimono".
You'll find the transliteration below cut:
The court ranks - Mibun 身分 or Ikai (位階)
Find more about the exact titles here.
一位 Ichii (First court rank)
三位 Sanmi (Third court rank) and 四位 Shii (Fourth court rank)
Goi 五位 (Fifth court rank)
Omemie ijô 御目見 以上, the "upper" vassals allowed to request audience with the shogun
Omemie ika 御目見 以下, the "lesser" vassals (not allowed to request audience with the shogun)
Rin does not mention the second court rank (二位 Nii) so I am not sure where this one is supposed to go ^^;
The clan/families - Kamei 家名
徳川将軍家 Tokugawa shôgunke (Tokugawa Shogun clan)
尾張徳川家 Owari Tokugawake (Owari Tokugawa clan), 紀伊徳川家 Kii Tokugawake (Kii Tokugawa clan), 水戸徳川家 Mito Tokugawake (Mito Tokugawa clan), 徳川御三卿 Tokugawa gosankyo (Secondary Tokugawa branch clans: Tayasu, Shimizu, and Hitotsubashi)
三奉行 Sanbugyô, & 下三奉行 Shimosan bugyô (magistrates, governors)
旗本 Hatamoto (general term for upper-rank vassals of the Tokugawa)
御家人 Gokenin (general term for lower-rank vassals of the Tokugawa)
Outfits TPO (Time, Place, Occasion)
第一礼服 (大礼 など) Daiichi raifuku (tairei nado) - Most formal outfit worn during State/important ceremonies, etc.
礼服 (正月など) Raifuku (Shogatsu nado) - Formal outfit, worn for events like New Year, etc.
通常礼服 (節句など) Tsûjô raifuku (sekku nado) - Regular formal outfit, worn during seasonal festivals, etc.
平服 Heifuku - Everyday outfit
Type of outfits
Rin has released separated charts detailing the different costumes. You'll find them translated here in coming days.
束帯 Sokutai - old ceremonial court dress, first worn by Heian nobility. Attire includes the 笏 shaku (flat ritual sceptre), and 冠 kanmuri hat.
衣冠 Ikan - old ceremonial court dress, much more simpler than sokutai
布衣 Hoi - "plain" 狩衣 kariginu (which were informal clothes worn by the nobility from the Heian period and onwards)
素襖 Suô - ceremonial dress of the lower-ranked samurai
直垂 Hitatare - ceremonial court robe
狩衣 Kariginu - patterned kariginu (informal clothes worn by the nobility from the Heian period and onwards)
大紋 Daimon - 直垂 hitatare with large family crests
直衣 Nôshi - everyday robes which were first worn by males of the imperial family during Heian era, and then spread among nobility, etc.
長上下 Naga Kamishimo - outfit pairing a sleeveless ceremonial robe called 肩衣 kataginu, with trailing pants called 長袴 nagabakama
半上下 Han Kamishimo - outfit pairing a sleeveless ceremonial robe called 肩衣 kataginu, with ankle lenght pants called 半袴 hanbakama
#japan#history#fashion history#samurai kimono#samurai#nadeshico rin#edo era#edo period#shogun#tokugawa#ressources#references#Sokutai#Ikan#Hoi#Suo#Hitatare#Kariginu#Daimon#Noshi#Kamishimo#nagakamishimo#hankamishimo#kataginu#hakama#nagabakama#hanbakama#court rank#buke#warrior class
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Hello friends autisms! 🌷










I still love the blue cinnamon roll so dearly 💕
and “WOW!!” all of you must be thinking, “SHE POSTED!!”
yes I did… finally…….. AND IM GONNA DO MORE!!!
and is the last two drawings lemon demon references? maybe 🍋
GAAAH I missed posting here and I MISSED YOU GUYS! Looking forward to a nice new year with you all (and Wally!) 💖
#welcome home#wally darling#welcome home fanart#wally darling fanart#art#welcome home wally#welcome home arg#partycoffin#welcome home puppet show#wally darling art#wally darling x yn#wally darling welcome home#tumblr artists#artists on tumblr#my art#KawaiiAleisha#HI EVERYONE AAAWWAWAWWAA#I PROMISED TO BE BACK!! SO HERE I AM!!#HOI#LOVE YA ALL /P#Wally told me he loves you all too#so keep that in mind please 🌹
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AHHHH I'm rlly happy with this edit
Pls follow or reblog or somethin I'm lonely
#pjo#hoi#toa#pjo hoo toa#nico di angelo#percy jackson#camp half blood#jason grace#leo valdez#will solace#annabeth chase#lee fletcher#hoo#clarisse#clarisse la rue
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hey guys im new on tumblr haiii hiii i somethimes makes art and stuff also im the guy who runs @randomalienencounter uhh dont unfollow that account please!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! look at my art hi hello hiiii!!!!!!!!
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Making niche memes that only I enjoy is my passion
#Hailey’s on it#hailey banks#scott denoga#moon girl and devil dinosaur#lunella lafayette#moon girl#kid kree#Mel varr#Marvin Ellis#sanjay singh#hoi#mgadd#meme#memes#Disney#emmys 2024#emmys#personal
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The Disney Channel can shampoo my crotch.
Every show I've fallen in love with on this network has been brutally and abruptly cancelled.
"The Owl House"? Denied a full third season with its ending crammed into a three-hour miniseries. "The Ghost and Molly McGee"? Cancelled after two seasons. "Hailey's On It?" Cancelled after one without even an attempt to resolve its central storyline. "Moon Girl and Devil Dinosaur"? Cancelled after two seasons, with the final eps burned off next year notably without one focusing on transgender character Brooklyn. It cleared production, even passed S&P, but was suddenly yanked from the schedule… days after the horse got back into the hospital.
Meanwhile, the Mouse continues to run "Big City Greens" into the ground and insists on foisting "Zombies: The Re-Animated Series" upon us.
The only thing I can do now is wait for "Miraculous Ladybug" to come back on the schedule, hoping against hope season 6 will be better than season 5 or at least tie up all the loose ends.
No amount of "Chibiverse" shorts or "Theme Song Takeovers" is going to fix this.
#the owl house#toh#the ghost and molly McGee#tgamm#hailey's on it#hoi#moon girl and devil dinosaur#mgadd#big city greens#bcg#zombies the re-animated series#miraculous ladybug#disney channel
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Hearts of Iron 1 on Gameboy
I should probably animate this one huh?

#rts#strategy#paradox#paradox interactive#hearts of iron 4#hoi4#crusader kings 3#hearts of iron#hoi#Gameboy#pixel art#mock up#meme#eu4#ww2#ww2 history#Poland
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I'm sending good vibes your way... you can't stop them

Temmie: *breaks down my wall* "HOI!!!!"
Me: *does the Lion King thing and raises the Temmie to the sky*
#undertale#temmie#HOI#temmie deltarune#oh lawd he comin#good vibes#There's nothing you can do to stop him#WORSHIP HIM#i made this in 5 minutes#silly little guy#silly#silly guy
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Hello everyone! Good to see ya! Well here we are on the 20th day of June. Just like I promised I am here to show you all the first batches of both my TGAMM (#TGAMM) and HOI (#HOI) fan-season project. I hope this new information shall help tide you all over for now. I hope you all like what it is to come. Enjoy.
The Ghost and Molly McGee Fan-Season 3;
1.) Once Upon A Time:
The family is back together as Scratch/Todd returns to Brighton alongside Adia to reunite with the McGees and their family. The McGees meets a new ghost, Sniffles (voiced by Richard Horvitz) who needs help. But not all is well as Bizmart CEO Biz Matthew (voiced by Jeff Bennet) has freed the ancient evil Spirit of Fear, Master Phobos (voiced by Mark Hamill), who is bent on world conquest. Now it up to the Ghost Friends to come together and stop this evil spirit.
2.) Molly, Sniffles, And Scratch Solve It All!/UpROOTing the Chens:
Molly and Scratch use a rare curse to solve the mystery of Sniffle's past in 11 minutes... JUST LIKE A TV SHOW!/Molly and Scratch tries to help Ollie and his family stay in Brighton.
3.) The Turtle Writer of Knell/Robe Knows Best:
For the first time ever, Libby is struggling with writer's block and needs Molly's help to overcome them./Ollie becomes the Chairman of the Ghost World. The Robes chose Ollie to be the Chairman, but he doesn't want the job so he and both Molly and Scratch try to find someone else for the job.
4.) I Dream of Nintari/She Loves Me, She Loves Me Bot:
Darrly and Scratch wants to get the new Nintari game console but both parents said no, so they try to change their minds in their dreams./An Andrea/Alina (voiced by Grey DeLisle) story with Andrea and Alina at the robot competition. “Andrea and Alina work out their feelings about each other through battle bots”
5.) Saving Purim/Songkran Surprise:
Libby & Molly must find a way to save Purim before it is canceled./It is Songkran and it the McGees vs Grandma Nin as they try to soak the other.
6.) Art In The Right Place/Dead And Breakfast:
Molly takes credit for Scratch's painting and paints on his behalf./The McGees stay at Geoff & Jeff's new B&B.
7.) Atomic Pink Splits!/The First Piece:
The band breaks up with Molly sides with one side and Darryl sides with the other. Can they get the band back together?/The race to obtain the first piece of the Heart of Joy is on as both the Ghostfriends and Phobos race to obtain the first piece in a race across Perfektborg to Brighton.
8.) Sniffles from the Past/Taking a Band Stand:
Molly, Libby, and Scratch tries to help Sniffles remember about his past./A revolt against the recorder. The beginners flute-like instrument. Molly and her friends must try to stop the substitute music teacher from denying everyone from playing instruments except the recorder.
9.) That Dang Crush/Fighting Dragons:
Libby has a crush on someone./The ghosts of two martial artists duke it out trying to beat the other. It's up to Molly, Scratch, and Sniffles to resolve this.
10.) The Haunted Mansion:
The McGees, Chens, Scratch, Sniffles, Andrea, and the Ghost Friends find the location of the second piece of the Heart of Joy inside the Gracey Manor. Once they enter they find out about this haunted mansion's 999 happy haunts and must find a way out before it's too late.
Hailey's On It! Fan-Season 2;
1.) Say Funcle:
After the dance, Hailey abandons her duties and responsibilities and hangs out with Sanjay which puts the future in danger. When she comes back from her trips, it is up to Scott, Beta, her family, the Professor, and a surprise person that no one saw coming to get Hailey back on track in time for the O.C. 10K.
2.) Miss Oceanside/Fraken-Truck!:
In order to complete a list item, Hailey must win the Oceanside Beauty Pageant. But she will soon learn things get pretty ugly in beauty pageants./Hailey and Scott win a chance to ride a monster trick in The Monster Truck rally and they are stuck with the worse one yet, Franken-Truck. Will they be able to complete this list item or not?
3.) The Cart & Furious/The Little Swimmer:
Hailey and Scott prepare to compete in the Oceanside Shopping Cart Race, but in order to win they need to beat the reigning champion, Becker and Bonesaw./Hailey takes up synchronized swimming but has problems with synchronizing with the other swimmers and needs help with that.
4.) Surf's Up!/Hailey's Dog Days:
Scott and Beta must help Hailey win the surfing contest when a pro-surfer comes to compete./Hailey, Scott, and Sanjay volunteers at the animal shelter but had their work cut out with some problematic pooches.
5.) Dead Bot Tell's No Tale/The Deadlist Card Game:
On a field trip to an old pirate ship, Hailey and her class must fend themselves from what appears to be ghosts./Hailey and Scott set out to win an arcade game against a player with a huge ego.
6.) Try, Fly, and Repeat/Extreme Triathlon!!!:
Hailey is having a hard time completing a few list items, so the Professor gives her a button that resets the day. How many times will it take to complete her list items?/In order to complete her list item, she must learn three different extreme sports in order to participate in Oceanside's Extreme Sports Triathlon.
7.) The Amazing Flying Duo/Diss And Break Up:
Hailey and Scott joins the circus for the day and learns all there is to do at the circus, but can they get their act together before their big act?/Scott goes on a date with a famous singer but things end badly for the date and him. Can he fix this or will he fail?
8.) Tree Huggin' Hailey/Do the Worm!:
Hailey and Scott must plant new trees to replace the ones that were cut down and burned down in the California fires, but the land they want to plant the trees in are being threaten to be paved over and turn into a parking lot./Hailey tries to make an organic worm farm for her eco-science project, but because of fishing season, she is having a hard time gathering the worms she need for her project.
9.) Spread Your Wings/A Boulder To Cry On:
Hailey has to find someone to drive a boat and look for a new parasail parachute to complete her list item after one of her Uncle's gone fishing and her parachute is damged beyond repair./Hailey, Scott, Beta (hiding in her backpack), and Kristine have to work together to win "World Cutest Pet Rock" contest.
10.) Who is Sanjay Singh?:
As Hailey enters a competition, Scott and Beta tries to figure out who Sanjay really is and what he is up to.
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Hoi There, It's Joie
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Other formal outfits of Heian ancestry - Kariginu, Hoi and Nôshi attires
(as worn by samurai of the Edo period - great charts by Nadeshico Rin). You can find more about samurai ranks and their regulated attires under the tag "samurai kimono".
The Kariginu

狩衣 Kariginu first appeared during Heian period where they were informal attires worn by kuge (nobibilty) men for activities such as hunting and 蹴鞠 kemari ball games.
Kariginu rose to formal status during Kamakura period when it started being worn by the buke (warrior class). In Edo period, it was worn by upper-ranked samurai (4th rank and above).
Edo-period kariginu designates a patterned clothing (different from the hoi, see below), often decorated with the family 紋 mon (crest). Colors were not regulated.
風折烏帽子 Kazaori-eboshi - black-lacquered hat made of silk, cloth or paper, originally worn by Heian nobility. Many eboshi shapes exist, this one is a upright style (tate-eboshi 立烏帽子) with top folded to the left.
末広 Suehiro - a type of formal folding fan. TN: the fan drawn here ressemble more a 中啓 chûkei, as suehiro have curving ribs which don't seems to be the case here (find more about fan types here)
指貫 sashinuki (or 奴袴 nubakama) - large bouffant pants. Also, note the bare feet! Rin doesn't comment this but this was probably a way to put it below sokutai and ikan (which do have socks)
袖括 Sodekukuri - decorative sleeve ties. Originally appeared on Heian clothings (like kariginu, nôshi, etc) where they were used to tighten sleeve cuffs.
The Hoi

布衣 Hoi is a variation of 狩衣 kariginu (see above).
During Edo period, it was worn by some hatamoto (6th rank samurai) via explicit permission of the shogunate - setting those rewarded by this honor apart from other vassals of the same rank.
Compared to kariginu, hoi were plain solid color.
It is worn here over a 熨斗目 noshime, a samurai kosode (=ancestor of the kimono) with stripes or lattice pattern at waist area.
As for the kariginu, note the bare feet!
The Nôshi

直衣 Nôshi was a type of everyday robes which were first worn by males of the imperial family during Heian era. Formality placed it then above kariginu.
Overtime, their use spread among nobility, and by Edo period, they were a "tad-formal" attire worn by Shogun's family for worship celebrations.
立烏帽子 Tate-eboshi - upright lacquered hat
袍 Hô - round-necked robe with large boxy sleeves
檜扇 hiôgi - formal folding fan made of cypress, also of Heian history. Those were unpatterned as painted ones were for women
指貫 Sashinuki (or 奴袴 nubakama) - large bouffant pants
#japan#fashion#fashion history#samurai kimono#samurai#nadeshico rin#ressources#reference#kariginu#hoi#noshime#hatamoto#buke#warrior class#edo era#edo period#heian period#着物#Kazaori-eboshi#Suehiro#chûkei#sashinuki#nubakama#Sodekukuri#men kimono#Tate-eboshi#Hô#hiôgi#Sashinuki
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#Dragon Ball#Dragon Ball Z#villains#King Gurumes#Lucifer#Garlic Jr.#Dr. Wheelo#Turles#Lord Slug#Coola#Cooler#Android 13#Broly#Bojack#Janemba#Hoi#tumblr polls#poll
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These five precious and adorable Disney pairings in their series and in the Chibiverse.
#The Owl House#TOH#The Ghost and Molly McGee#TGaMM#The Proud Family#The Proud Family Louder and Prouder#Hamster and Gretel#HnG#Hailey's On It#HOI#Luz x Amity#Lumity#Molliver#Mollie#Penny x Kareem#Pareem#Kevin x Hiromi#Kevromi#Hailey x Scott#Hailott#Scailey#Cartoon Fandoms#Cartoon Characters#Favorite Characters#Cartoon Love
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temmie!!!1
#temmie#undertale fanart#gif art#undertale temmie#tem shop#HOI#undertale#fanart#sillyposting#silly little guy#frisk dreemurr#sans undertale#sans#papyrus#toriel#undyne#alphys#asgore#flowey undertale
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Well, this show is cute. Excuse me while I get obsessed with it
(Expect a part 2)
#hoi#hailey’s on it#scott denoga#hailey banks#scailey#hailott#idk do they have a ship name?#scott X Hailey#fanart#kitikatrina#aged up here btw if it wasn’t obvious
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