#hoi

[tanuki-kimono]

Samurai's ranks and dress code in Late Edo period

AMAZING reference chart put together by Nadeshico Rin, showing the different attires worn by the men of the buke class in and about Edo Castle. OP stresses the chart is by no means exhaustive - but it helps picturing things SO MUCH!

For easier reading, I have adapted the chart with english translation. Rin has also created illustrations detailing each attire, I'll translate those in coming days under the tag "samurai kimono".

You'll find the transliteration below cut:

The court ranks - Mibun 身分 or Ikai (位階)

Find more about the exact titles here.

一位 Ichii (First court rank)

三位 Sanmi (Third court rank) and 四位 Shii (Fourth court rank)

Goi 五位 (Fifth court rank​)

Omemie ijô 御目見 以上, the "upper" vassals allowed to request audience with the shogun

Omemie ika 御目見 以下, the "lesser" vassals (not allowed to request audience with the shogun)

Rin does not mention the second court rank (二位 Nii) so I am not sure where this one is supposed to go ^^;

The clan/families - Kamei 家名

徳川将軍家 Tokugawa shôgunke (Tokugawa Shogun clan)

尾張徳川家 Owari Tokugawake (Owari Tokugawa clan), 紀伊徳川家 Kii Tokugawake (Kii Tokugawa clan), 水戸徳川家 Mito Tokugawake (Mito Tokugawa clan), 徳川御三卿 Tokugawa gosankyo (Secondary Tokugawa branch clans: Tayasu, Shimizu, and Hitotsubashi)

三奉行 Sanbugyô, & 下三奉行 Shimosan bugyô (magistrates, governors)

旗本 Hatamoto (general term for upper-rank vassals of the Tokugawa)

御家人 Gokenin (general term for lower-rank vassals of the Tokugawa)

Outfits TPO (Time, Place, Occasion)

第一礼服 (大礼 など) Daiichi raifuku (tairei nado) - Most formal outfit worn during State/important ceremonies, etc.

礼服 (正月など) Raifuku (Shogatsu nado) - Formal outfit, worn for events like New Year, etc.

通常礼服 (節句など) Tsûjô raifuku (sekku nado) - Regular formal outfit, worn during seasonal festivals, etc.

平服 Heifuku - Everyday outfit

Type of outfits

Rin has released separated charts detailing the different costumes. You'll find them translated here in coming days.

束帯 Sokutai - old ceremonial court dress, first worn by Heian nobility. Attire includes the 笏 shaku (flat ritual sceptre), and 冠 kanmuri hat.

衣冠 Ikan - old ceremonial court dress, much more simpler than sokutai

布衣 Hoi - "plain" 狩衣 kariginu (which were informal clothes worn by the nobility from the Heian period and onwards)

素襖 Suô - ceremonial dress of the lower-ranked samurai

直垂 Hitatare - ceremonial court robe​

狩衣 Kariginu - patterned kariginu (informal clothes worn by the nobility from the Heian period and onwards)

大紋 Daimon - 直垂 hitatare with large family crests

直衣 Nôshi - everyday robes which were first worn by males of the imperial family during Heian era, and then spread among nobility, etc.

長上下 Naga Kamishimo - outfit pairing a sleeveless ceremonial robe called 肩衣 kataginu, with trailing pants called 長袴 nagabakama

半上下 Han Kamishimo - outfit pairing a sleeveless ceremonial robe called 肩衣 kataginu, with ankle lenght pants called 半袴 hanbakama

[kawaiialeisha]

Hello friends autisms! 🌷

I still love the blue cinnamon roll so dearly 💕

and “WOW!!” all of you must be thinking, “SHE POSTED!!”

yes I did… finally…….. AND IM GONNA DO MORE!!!

and is the last two drawings lemon demon references? maybe 🍋

GAAAH I missed posting here and I MISSED YOU GUYS! Looking forward to a nice new year with you all (and Wally!) 💖

[crossoverheaven]

[jazzymarie1006]

These five precious and adorable Disney pairings in their series and in the Chibiverse.

[atom-heart-mama]

Twas a good hair day (for once) 💫

[killervelveteenrabbit]

The Disney Channel can shampoo my crotch.

Every show I've fallen in love with on this network has been brutally and abruptly cancelled.

"The Owl House"? Denied a full third season with its ending crammed into a three-hour miniseries. "The Ghost and Molly McGee"? Cancelled after two seasons. "Hailey's On It?" Cancelled after one without even an attempt to resolve its central storyline. "Moon Girl and Devil Dinosaur"? Cancelled after two seasons, with the final eps burned off next year notably without one focusing on transgender character Brooklyn. It cleared production, even passed S&P, but was suddenly yanked from the schedule… days after the horse got back into the hospital.

Meanwhile, the Mouse continues to run "Big City Greens" into the ground and insists on foisting "Zombies: The Re-Animated Series" upon us.

The only thing I can do now is wait for "Miraculous Ladybug" to come back on the schedule, hoping against hope season 6 will be better than season 5 or at least tie up all the loose ends.

No amount of "Chibiverse" shorts or "Theme Song Takeovers" is going to fix this.

[misssweetday]

temmie!!!1

[youruinedmylifebynotbeingreal]

Making niche memes that only I enjoy is my passion

[kitikatrina]

Well, this show is cute. Excuse me while I get obsessed with it

(Expect a part 2)

[sepublic]

So the ending of The Puffle Kerfuffle goes with the running gag of Hailey and Scott having lookalikes all over town to foreshadow via parallels that, hey! They'll get together, right? But what if... What if we're being tricked with an option so obvious, we miss the other one right under our nose? What if Thatcher isn't meant to be a parallel to Scott... But rather his sister, Becker?!

Becker, Thatcher. Their names are more alike than Thatcher and Scott... Just as Hailey and Bailey are so similar! Not only that, but in Catching Felines, where Becker’s romantic connection to Hailey is teased, Hailey is mistakenly referred to as Bailey at one point! Just like the Bailey who married Thatcher… And if you combine Becker and Hailey’s names, Bailey is a potential outcome!

The similarities between Scott and Thatcher also technically apply to Becker, too; Growing up next door to Hailey, and Hailey unwittingly confessing her 'crush' to Becker, inspring Becker's to kiss Hailey in return! Becker and Thatcher have the same punk vibes and nearly identical spiked bracelets, have built birdhouses in the yard with their -ailey… And while Becker doesn't resemble Thatcher as much as Scott does, she's still his sister, and this may change when she gets older.

This possibility goes with the theory that the Professor is Hailey’s child from the future… There is a resemblance to Scott, but potentially an older Becker as well. And the Professor and Becker both share that hardcore “take charge” attitude and punk vibe. They’ve got the badassery to casually destroy things, being flippantly tough and sassy, AKA traits Hailey and Scott wouldn’t contribute to a hypothetical kid. Now Hailey and Becker are both girls, but this is the future so the Professor could be a test tube baby made from DNA samples.

Hailey and Becker both have a penchant for engineering and technological genius… And this last bit is a stretch, but the lighthouse made by Hailey’s ancestor, that features in various shots and promo materials? It’s Becker who inadvertently fixes it’s too-bright spotlight, contributing to Hailey being able to save her family heirloom; And in Becker’s debut, she’s responsible for manning the spotlight, which she makes too bright at Kristine’s request!

(Note Becker’s graffiti…)

Catching Felines even clarifies for us that Hailey and Becker are only a year apart in age... So there's more chance to it than just a precocious crush by a kid much younger! And we know from Along for the Slide’s synopsis (an episode coming out this week) that Becker has a rival named Kennedy… In other words, the Kiley to her Thatcher? Someone else she could be friends with, but not too close to?

[badly-drawn-haileys-on-it]

heh....

I drew like a dark, fucked up and evil and sick and twisted version of Hailey Banks haha. Just a glimpse into my dark reality. A full stare into my twisted perspective would make most simply go insane lmao.

[tanuki-kimono]

Other formal outfits of Heian ancestry - Kariginu, Hoi and Nôshi attires

(as worn by samurai of the Edo period - great charts by Nadeshico Rin). You can find more about samurai ranks and their regulated attires under the tag "samurai kimono".

The Kariginu

狩衣 Kariginu first appeared during Heian period where they were informal attires worn by kuge (nobibilty) men for activities such as hunting and 蹴鞠 kemari ball games.

Kariginu rose to formal status during Kamakura period when it started being worn by the buke (warrior class). In Edo period, it was worn by upper-ranked samurai (4th rank and above).

Edo-period kariginu designates a patterned clothing (different from the hoi, see below), often decorated with the family 紋 mon (crest). Colors were not regulated.

風折烏帽子 Kazaori-eboshi - black-lacquered hat made of silk, cloth or paper, originally worn by Heian nobility. Many eboshi shapes exist, this one is a upright style (tate-eboshi 立烏帽子) with top folded to the left.

末広 Suehiro - a type of formal folding fan. TN: the fan drawn here ressemble more a 中啓 chûkei, as suehiro have curving ribs which don't seems to be the case here (find more about fan types here)

指貫 sashinuki (or 奴袴 nubakama) - large bouffant pants. Also, note the bare feet! Rin doesn't comment this but this was probably a way to put it below sokutai and ikan (which do have socks)

袖括 Sodekukuri - decorative sleeve ties. Originally appeared on Heian clothings (like kariginu, nôshi, etc) where they were used to tighten sleeve cuffs.

The Hoi

布衣 Hoi is a variation of 狩衣 kariginu (see above).

During Edo period, it was worn by some hatamoto (6th rank samurai) via explicit permission of the shogunate - setting those rewarded by this honor apart from other vassals of the same rank.

Compared to kariginu, hoi were plain solid color.

It is worn here over a 熨斗目 noshime, a samurai kosode (=ancestor of the kimono) with stripes or lattice pattern at waist area.

As for the kariginu, note the bare feet!

The Nôshi

直衣 Nôshi was a type of everyday robes which were first worn by males of the imperial family during Heian era. Formality placed it then above kariginu.

Overtime, their use spread among nobility, and by Edo period, they were a "tad-formal" attire worn by Shogun's family for worship celebrations.

立烏帽子 Tate-eboshi - upright lacquered hat

袍 Hô - round-necked robe with large boxy sleeves

檜扇 hiôgi - formal folding fan made of cypress, also of Heian history. Those were unpatterned as painted ones were for women

指貫 Sashinuki (or 奴袴 nubakama) - large bouffant pants

[beeclops]

Frank appreciation post

[martinacatlover]

Happy Valentine's Day everyone ♥️🌈🐈‍⬛

I think Frank and Petey are the cutest couple in "Hailey's On It"

I normally don't draw with crayons and pens and stuff like that, but I decided to give it a try. It was fun to make even if i don't really like the result :)

[queermarzipan]

.