#costume study.

[cagedchoices]

COSTUMING META - PART II [SUITS (REDUX)]

OPERA ATTIRE

Until the late 1880s, opera was traditionally a white tie event, with the black tie dress code only starting to gain popularity enough to replace it in the late 19th century and into the 20th. This was largely due to the innovation and popularization of the tuxedo as formal menswear by wealthy socialites, which helped it gain a positive reputation as a sleek and stylish fashion choice for evening events such as formal dinners, weddings, balls, and theatre showings.

The tuxedo steadily climbed in popularity, reaching a new peak in the 1920s Jazz Era. In accordance with the black tie dress code required for opening night performances at an opera house in our modern world as well as in Westworld's universe (which in Maeve and Caleb's timeline would've been somewhere around the year 2065), Caleb wears a classic black tuxedo in 4.02 - Well Enough Alone. I am still convinced Maeve picked for him just based on this: "Did it really have to be a tux?" "Now far be it from me to limit your sartorial choices." line as well as knowing that Dolores did pick an outfit for him last season.

1920S PARK SUIT

In episode 4.03 - Annees Folles we enter Hale's 1920s downtown Chicago mobster-inspired park. Caleb is clad in a timeless three-piece suit, an overall accurate portrayal of the men's fashion popular during this era. His suit components include a white button-down shirt with dark blue pinstriping, button suspenders worn over the shirt/under a waistcoat, suit jacket and matching trousers, black leather oxford shoes, and a gold watch chain which is presumably attached to a pocket watch sitting in the right side pocket of his waistcoat.

When I went researching pocket watches, I stumbled across a guide on how to wear one properly and it mentioned that pocket watches are supposed to be worn on the side of your non-dominant hand, so that your dominant hand always remains free for other uses. Caleb wears his watch chain to the right, but as far as I could tell his right hand seems to be his dominant hand so this might be something the costume department wasn't aware of. Or maybe Caleb just in-character doesn't know watch etiquette because he's never had a need to.

Most three-piece suits in the early 1920s were double-breasted, but single-breasted options were available and would increase in popularity over years to come. Suits were commonly made out of fabrics such as wool, flannel, linen, tweed, or blended fabrics. The one Caleb wears looks to be made of wool, and the shirt most likely would be cotton, linen, or a blend.

In episode 4.04 Generation Loss, the jacket is removed from Caleb's suit, leaving the waistcoat and shirt sleeves visible. After Caleb is attacked by a guest under Hale's control, he removes the waistcoat (and tie) and holds it under his arm, using it to hold pressure on his stab wound and try to stop the bleeding. I'd never really noticed this before and I thought it was a neat little detail when I caught it.

The suit from what I could gather is often mistaken as being a black suit due to lighting and color filter struggles, but it is actually dark blue. Once again, the color blue is often representative of a virtuous character, symbolizing ideals of freedom, loyalty, compassion, honesty, intelligence, confidence, and reliability.

[kudriaken]

Study of costumes. Had fun with this one.

[tarufai]

[gros-chat-fait]

I don't know what an automat is.

[bebemoon]

"Babydoll’s gun is a personalised M1911A1 pistol. It is polished, nickle plated with engravings on either side. The engraving is different on either side. Both starting with the letter ‘B’, one side features a rabbit, flowers and cherries and the other a skull with a lobotomy pick. There are five charms that hang from the lanyard ring. They are a bunny, baby’s bottle, skull with a bow, brown bear with buttons for eyes and an hourglass. They hang from the gun via a gold thread." { source: kealyann.com }

[s1xseasonsandamov1e]

community textposts i made at 4am!!

[t00thpasteface]

roommate took a stupid selfie and i photobombed it holding up my elvis themed cup. then i redrew it. and then i showed this redraw to my roommate and she said we should name each other Trapper and Hawkeye in our phones. but bc we sleep in the same room and spend all day at the same campus we really only text each other "are you out of class yet" "do you want to get lunch" "are you still in lab bc i want to get sandwiches" "i'm in the cafeteria where are you" "i'm omw to the caf is the food good today?" "no"

[thepiecesofcait]

Blue Cast Cosette, courtesy of my recent desire to draw every cast member in my favourite costume of theirs from our production of Les Mis

[stbot]

#cynthia x lydia crumbs

[orlofsky]

Anywhere else I'd be a ten!

[kudriaken]

Costume gesture study.

[1800duckhotline]

hashtag girl

[attheendoftheline]

I could talk for days about the costuming in the show, and I probably will. One of the small details I’d like to point out is Persephone’s hair. It’s easy to point and talk about her change from vibrant greens to dressing like she is headed for a funeral but I think her hair speaks volumes (ha)

Up top Persephone let’s herself loose. She’s dancing and moving- hell! She floats from person to person absolutely buzzing with excitement as everyone in the bar is so alive - literally! She’s loose and very telling with her body language. Her hair is down and wild as she is. She has a nice bit of flowers braided in too.

Down below she’s stiff. It’s like her clothes confine her just as much as the town and hades himself does. She still moves and has expression but she’ll toss her wrist instead of something full body. She gestures , she stands and she walks instead of floating. Here her hair is put into a snood, her hair is caged. All that wild energy is subdued, even the little flowers on it are black and dead (likely as apart of the snood and not real flowers but the point stands).

I just— this show has so much loving detail put into it down to the floors and the smallest fiber oh costumes and I’m so in love.

[dallasgallant]

I like dissecting every little thing I can so let’s talk about shoes for a moment and how it’s more relevant than you think. Pony mentions it first when he talks about how they dress and it is actually true to hoods… shoes are either sneakers or boots. Durable, working shoes that tend to last. This is another aspect that makes them stand out that’s less thought about, as most people back then would wear nicer more dressy shoes in the day to day.

Now for shoes themselves, most of the time it’s:

Pony and Johnny- Converse

Darry- Workboots

Soda and Steve- Dress shoes(?)

Two-bit and Dally- Cowboy/biker boots

What stood out to me immediately after I noticed it for the first time was how Soda (sometimes Steve) wears a nicer pair of shoes but still a durable pair. Probably apart of his uniform (I imagine there’s certain nonslick ones like working in a kitchen for working in a garage/gas station) that he just wears around. He doesn’t like shoes so it makes sense he’d have few pairs to begin with.

Darry in the work boots also makes me want to cry but it makes sense as he’s at work most of the time, however for the rumble itself I think he had converse

Then there’s two-bit and Dally with boots, both are a bit tougher and guarded if you want to get down to it. I also think it’s just plain aesthetic, but like Steve Two-bit also swaps out with converse on occasion where dally never does.

Once again I’ll scream this forever- Soda (who the first thing he does when he comes home is take off his shoes) running out with everyone to get Dally in his bear feet. *hits wall*

[phrynefishersfrocks]

The third outfit Phryne wears in "Murder & the Maiden" (Season 3, Episode 2) is a gorgeous blue and purple coat with a matching purple cloche accented with blue floral embroidery.

The star of this outfit is the beautiful chinoise coat made of black silk with midnight blue damask floral designs and purple silk trim on the pockets and her lapped sleeve cuffs. Her coat is lined with purple silk, and has a standing mandarin collar with a single hidden closure at the waist. Marion Boyce, the costume designer, added cut out elements from original 1920's silk embroidery, attaching two large blue flowers to the left shoulder, as well as one on her hat. She finishes off her look with a blue silk organza floral brooch pinned to her shoulder.

Her accompanying cloche is a matching purple felt with a tight molded brim and decorative swoop near Phryne's left cheek, along with one of the silk embroidered flower motifs also seen on her coat.

Underneath her coat, Miss Fisher wears her dark blue camisole with small scalloped trim on the straight neckline, along with her navy blue wide leg silk faille pants. She accessorizes with a bag made of the same fabric as her coat, long teardrop earrings, and a large purple amethyst and diamond ring.

Season 3, Episode 2 - "Murder & the Maiden"

Screencaps from here, costume exhibition photos from Laura Emily's Flickr, and Marion Boyce's website.

[pinarapier]