#but it is important if I want to earn a bit more than a minimum wage ig

[salenrooz]

Oh the indescribable feeling of dread after you get exactly what you're asked for

[ferigrievous]

attractive things they do ; shiratorizawa ver . ⋆˚࿔

tendo ; unapologetic in what he does. even if its a little weird, or a little off putting, you cant get enough of it. he never makes himself smaller, or quieter for anyone. he doesnt care if people are staring, or judging, he’s living his best life, which is more than most people can say for themself.

ushijima ; being gentle. he’s scary, and strong, and could probably kill you instantly, but he also listens to classical music, and has a green thumb. he brings extra snacks for his underclassman, and waits for people to tie their shoes. its the bare minimum, being polite, but for a man who is as renowned and as important as he is, being as down to earth as he is is enamouring in a way you cant describe.

semi ; breaking the dress code. shiratorizawa is a prestigious private school, one of the best in all of japan. to be a student of theirs, to be able to wear their uniform is a privilege, and while semi doesnt disagree, he also doesnt follow the dress code to a T. he always has two buttons undone, and never wears his tie. his black loafers are just his boot s that he’s never shined a day in his life. he still wears his cuffs, his bracelet, that necklace he always wears. it shows a little bit of his personality, even with the rigidity of a school uniform.

goshiki ; always giving 110%. never half-asses things, even if he complains the whole time. 110% is his base level of energy, and if he’s really into something, like volleyball or impressing his upperclassman, its something more like 150-200%. . he throws his whole heart into everything, even if he trips a few times along the way.

shirabu ; same as goshiki, but not in a ‘i want to impress everyone!’ way  but more in a ‘i deserve nothing less. shirabu knows his worth. he always tries his best, nothing more, nothing less, because he would much rather suffer now when he has the flexibility of being young, than suffer later when the consequences are more dire. he doesn’t accept shortcuts, not because he’s uptight, but because he wants to know he earned it.

reon ; notices the little things. reon is the type to remember what snacks you like, or which color pens you use. he’s observant in a quiet, dependable way. not to manipulate, but to support. he’s always watching the room to see where he’s needed. when the team is tense, he compliments plays others would overlook, praises the small, steady improvements no one else saw.

yamagata ; being unaturally calm. in all the years youve known him, you have never once seen him yell or lose his cool. theres something incredibly attractive about how grounded he is, especially for the standards shiratorizawa is held to. he doensnt need to be flashy or dramatic to handle things, he just does.

kawanishi ; his indifference. kawanishi doesn’t care about flair, or theatrics, or praise. he does what he’s supposed to do, and then he sits down. he’s not emotionless, just quiet about it, like he knows his worth and doesn’t need external validation. its not that he’s nonchalant, and doesnt care at all, he just knows what matters to him, and doesnt let anything change that.

[drdemonprince]

Would it make more sense to contribute money to my employers 401k to max out the match contribution or to instead just contribute a small amount and use the rest to pay off high interest debt or building an emergency savings (I have like 1.5 months worth of expenses saved and… $30k of credit card debt….). I was unemployed for a long time but now have a stable salaried job where I make enough to cover my expenses (credit card minimums, loans, groceries, rent, etc) and have a little left over that I divvy up between small treats (a movie ticket, a nice pastry, thrifted clothes), donation posts, and like an extra $50 credit card payment and I’m not fully sure the optimal way to use that small amount of money. I do need a small treat from time to time to not lose it (and socializing often costs money even if it’s a cheap activity) but maybe it’s better saving on getting a $10 movie ticket each month to potentially pay off my debt like a month faster a couple years from now? how do I create financial security without feeling like I’m putting my life on a depressing pause for a debt free future that won’t happen for a couple years (assuming I make the same money and don’t incur additional expenses)?

Yeah, you've hit on a really important piece here, which is motivation and long-term resolve. The Mr Money Mustaches of the world talk up the importance of stoicism and shit and preach reducing living expenses, but it's equally important to keep in mind what actively gives you enough hope, pleasure, and reinforcement to keep you going.

Cutting back on expensive nights out is one thing; removing all joy and socialization from your life and therefore nerfing your long-term ability to remain employed and earning is another matter entirely. Enjoy those movie nights out. Supplement with having friends over to stream something on your laptop and eat snacks, free museum days, you know, do lots of cheap shit in addition to the little treats, but dont deny yourself the treats. those arent extravagances, that's being ALIVE! and the only reason we aspire toward financial independence is so that we can live life as we wish to, rather than being owned by an employer.

Employer matches are pretty much a guaranteed double on your money, which is better than even paying off a loan in terms of earning potential. so I'd recommend socking away that 5% from your paycheck automatically, so that you never even have to think about it, and then budgeting any remaining expendable income on knocking out that credit card debt.

30k is enough to really hurt, especially with interest over time, but not so great that knocking it out is impossible. you can do this! make sure in particular to focus any unexpected income on paying down that debt. birthday money, tax returns, perhaps filling out some class action forms online, any little bit helps -- you may want to check out the Snowball Debt Repayment method, in particular, as a lot of people find it more motivating to have a few shorter-term goals. (Basically, if you have multiple credit card debts, focus on paying off the smallest one first, so you'll get the rush of having vanquished at least one beast).

Good luck!!

[thezombieprostitute]

Alphas & Algorithms

A/N: Written for the @the-slumberparty​ Bingo card, combining "Tinder Date" and "Dystopian AU" (the former is a bit weak, but it still holds). Reader is referred to as she/her and tall but no other descriptors.

Warnings: It is a Dystopian AU. Food scarcity, hunger, mentions of families being separated. Please let me know if I missed any!

A/N2: I've officially gotten my bingo card to where there are NO bingos and the next thing I write will result in a minimum of 2 bingos in one!

--Part 2--

--Series Masterlist--

The AI had started slowly. Subtly integrating itself into every facet of society. Once it was ready, its takeover was fast and bloody. Packs were still bearing the scars of it even now. There had been attempts to overthrow the AI but it learned from each try. As potent as its algorithms were it recognized that there would always be a small percentage of humanity that it would never be able to fully predict. That’s when it recruited the Omegas.

Because Omegas were naturally attuned to the emotional and psychological well-being of those around them, the AI began to use them when investigating civilians. The AI’s algorithm could easily pick out which citizens had the highest probabilities of rebelling against the system or even committing minor infractions, but the Omegas had proven themselves in being able to confirm or deny the reality of those probabilities. 

They didn’t want to help the AI but it understood the importance of Packs and would not hesitate to use their Packmates against them. It would focus on the Alphas as their bigger, stronger forms were deemed “not needed” in the world the AI had created. To save their Packmates, the Omegas ended up working for the AI. They were rewarded for accurate prediction and harshly punished for incorrect ones. 

Over the generations Omegas were gradually separated from Packs all together. Their training earned them the derogatory nickname “Pets”. When there was a noticeable drop in the Omega population the AI’s data indicated an Alpha/Omega mating was much more likely to result in Omegas than any other combination. 

And that’s what led to Y/N being here, at what her Alpha mother had derisively called “the Tinder App”. Y/N didn’t know what that meant but guessed it was based on some older technology. The AI consistently kept data on known Alphas and had collected 10 of the most biologically compatible with her, the Alphas most likely to give the AI more Omegas. The 10 boxes in front of her contained a sample of their scents. If she liked the scent, it was to be put to the right of the table. If she didn’t, it went to the left.

“What if I don’t like any of them,” she whispered to Jake. He was her best friend and Emotional Support Beta. He’d been assigned to her the minute she presented as an Omega. His role was both emotional support (in place of pack-bonding) as well as leverage for the AI to use against her.

“Don’t worry,” Jake whispered back. “I’ve personally evaluated at least half of them and I know you’ll find a few that you like.”

“How did you manage that?”

“I logiced with the AI that I could help reduce the number of disliked scents, optimizing the chances of you finding a good mate. Now go on and give the sniff test.” He pushed Y/N forward a bit. 

The first few scents were nice enough. Nothing particularly noticeable or unpleasant. She decided to keep those in the middle until she’d checked out a few others. The fifth scent made her go into a coughing fit.

“Woah, there,” Jake grabbed and hugged her while she kept coughing. “What the hell is in that box?!”

“I dunno but it smells like when you fry up dried spicy peppers and the smoke gets everywhere,” Y/N explained between coughs. “When that Alpha’s having a good day it’d be like adding a bit of spice and seasoning to bland foods. But when he’s having a bad day, it’d be like smelling bear spray.” Jake winces in sympathy and Y/N promptly moves the box to the left. Neither notices the AI crossing off the name “Hansen, L.” from its list of potential Alphas.

When Y/N recovered she went back to one of the mildly pleasant scents to clean her palette. She ended up moving a couple more to the left because, after the shock to her system with the smoky pepper scent, these ones just felt especially bland.

The sixth and seventh scents were at least interesting so she moved those to the right. The next scent almost made her knees shake with how good it was. It smelled like the warmth of a fire on a cold night, a light in the darkness that promised safety and companionship. On a good day there was warmth, food and safety. On a bad day it was just a lot of smoke that seemed to follow you no matter where you sat around it. It was definitely a keeper and she moved it to the right.

The ninth scent made her freeze in a way Jake recognized as fear so he immediately comforted her and put away the offending scent. She described the scent as “a glacier in the ocean. You might think you’re far enough away but you’re not. On a good day, you can see it clearly and try to avoid it. On a bad day, there’s fog everywhere, the ship sinks and you have to choose between drowning and hypothermia.” As she recovers from another shock, the AI crosses off “Drysdale, R.” from its list. 

The final scent was almost as good as the campfire one. She smelled it a few times and enjoyed the sensation of a cold front breaking the heatwave, making outside life bearable again. On the bad days, it would bring a blizzard and cover everything, but on the good days, relief. She almost wished she could have both Alphas as she moved the final scent to the right. But then she reminded herself of her promise to not be like her Omega father and that she wanted to be a good mate to whatever Alpha she ended up with. Probably would be easier if she only had one Alpha to dote on.

Every time Curtis woke up he expected that he’d finally be numb to the pain his body plagued him with. Every time he was disappointed. His Alpha designation meant he was deemed to be only suitable for heavy labor and drudgery work. Betas do the smart stuff, Omegas do the snitching, and Alphas do what labor the AI hasn’t replaced with robots, he thought to himself. He took a deep breath and got up. 

The rest of the pack was starting to stir as well. Only the pups were allowed to sleep a little later as they not only needed the rest but it gave the adults a few minutes of quiet in the mornings. Timmy, Yona and Andy weren’t rowdy kids, but some mornings were tougher than others. Curtis was especially protective of them since his own brother had been taken to be a whipping boy for some Omega several years ago. The only comfort his pack got was that, at the start of the month, they received credits equivalent to whatever wages he would’ve earned had he still been with them. Curtis hoped it was also a sign that he was still alive. 

Tanya and Andrew were just divvying up the ration packs for everyone for the day. They had to be careful since the AI kept touting that everyone was getting the exact amount of vitamins and minerals they needed each day. That knowledge didn’t help with the hunger and Curtis wondered if it was a side-effect of an Alpha physique to need more. He’d never ask for more, of course, but he still wondered.

Tanya smiled as best she could and handed Curtis his rations when there was a loud bang on the door that woke up everyone. The entire pack on edge, Curtis called out, “who is it?”

“AI Security Drone. Please open the door or we will break it down.” The pups started silently crying in fear as the other pack members tried to calm them down. Curtis stepped up and opened the door but did not let the drone inside. Alphas might not have practical skills for this day and age but dammit he was going to follow his instincts to protect his pack as best he could.

He blinked as the drone scanned his face and told him, “Curtis Everett. You have been selected for courting by an Omega. You are to come with me to prepare. Your pack will be compensated with the credits you would have earned today at work.”

Curtis froze in place, mentally cursing the AI and its ever invasive data collection. He heard one of the pups behind him crying for him to not go but he knew they’d be hurt worse if he didn’t comply. 

He sighed heavily and asked, “can I say goodbye to my pack, first?”

“You have been granted 3 minutes to say goodbye for the day.”

Curtis turned back and did his best Alpha purr to comfort the pups. He also snuck his day’s rations into Yona’s pocket. He wasn’t sure he was going to need it and figured they definitely could. He said his goodbyes, not knowing if he’d ever see his pack again, and headed out with the drone.

Part 2

[lunas-journal-sf]

Entry 3: 9 to 5

If anyone ever tells you space isn't that dangerous, they've clearly never had some random bounty hunters show up to collect. There's no shortage of strangers and freaks out there in the starfield, but the bounty hunters who show up to help you blow up the Ecliptics on your tail just to keep you alive for later have got to top the list.

Whoever heard of predators keeping their prey fresh?

Of course, then they decide you're all plump and juicy and ready for slaughter. Picture this: Your ship is being held together with hopes and dreams, some ships jump in from gods-know-where and save your life, then they hail you to let you know they wanted you all for themselves. How polite.

Well, there goes that ship...

With Ryujin asking me to tick off every gang on Neon and Constellation being... too painful, I figured the best way to stay safe was keeping close to the Settled Systems and keeping space travel to a minimum. This limited my options for earning credits, of course, but I did have one skill that paid well in these parts that I never thought would be useful again:

Mining.

Settling down on Mars wasn't the plan, and Cydonia, well, sucks, but it was good to be in a place where people didn't ask too many questions. But, of course, there's always something waiting for me to get dragged into it. Imagine trying to lay low and you find yourself getting tangled up in disputes between workers, corporate, and the "mayor."

I know, right?

But whatever. I need the credits. I need the credits. It's all for the credits.

Also, since I'll never get a chance to bring it up again, you know how you can feel pretty insignificant in space? Like when you're flying towards a planet and you feel like you've been flying for hours and the planet is barely growing in size? Space has a way of making you feel small.

I'm no stranger to cramped spaces, so being in the open vastness of space doesn't scare me, but I felt suddenly aware of how small I was (or, perhaps, of how large the industry was) when I saw this gigantic crane on Mars.

Like, it was huge. Andreja and I just stood there and talked about it for a bit. No one really went to Sol anymore, even with precious metals on Mars. Honestly, you heard more about tourist excursions to the ruins of Earth than mining on Mars. And yeah, someone settled down here and thought "you know what this place needs? The biggest crane you've ever seen. That'll get the people coming here."

I guess it worked, given how prominent Cydonia is as a mining colony.

As an aside, Andreja doesn't appreciate my musings on the size of cranes. She kept insisting we had more important things to do, but the credits weren't going anywhere. And neither was that crane, now that I think about it.

[majulians-groupie]

HEEYYY yall this is my first ever headcannon post,I know I am super late to the fandom,I haven't been here since middle school but I replayed the game again and I MISSED MY DUMBASS CHAOTIC THEATER KID DOCTOR🥺✨️✨️

•Sooοο..I am having a lupus flare and I lowkey need this so yeah this is for all my wonderful people that deal with chronic fatigue/pain/illnesses in general,we got this babes😭✌️✌️

 

♡Julian,and Asra with an MC that deals with Lupus♡

•

✨️🐦‍⬛✨️🐦‍⬛Julian✨️🐦‍⬛✨️🐦‍⬛:

Well,one could definetely say fighting the devil,saving the world, AND learning that you died but been brought back to life is more than enough to make a healthy person stressed and tired.Well...let's just say than in your case you needed a minimum of a few days of a well earned break to deal with your after-chaotic-route-events flair.

That's when you first made a real discussion about that autoimmune disease you were telling him about,(he was trying SOOO hard to learn more,always asking you details as discreetly as he could ,but you wanted to have a proper discussion with him about it,and the events of the route kinda got in the way)

•Good thing about him being a doctor:He generally knows what Lupus is and understands how it can affect you in your everyday life,so you don't have to explain much to him.Additionally, you wont have to worry about scaring/shocking him when it comes to your symptoms( 95% he has heard of them before,not that it still doesn't kill him  everytime he sees you going through them tho)

•Bad thing about being an anxious doctor is: HE ADORES YOU TO BITS,so he freaks a little bit out at first,exactly because he understands the seriousness of the situation

He tries to appear calm so as not to not freak YOU out (he knows that would only be worse for your health,since anxiety and autoimmune diseases are a really bad pair),but you could swear you could hear the gears up in his brain overworking themselves

•Darling...I had no idea (mesmerized that you were kicking the devil's AND lupus' ass at the same time)

•Let's be real here though..we are talking about the person that successfully amputated another person's arm as a teenager and saw the importance of blood in diseases WAY beyond his time.This man is canonically a genius,so yayy you have the best healthcare professional at your service (shall I remind you of the little detail that he also ADORES YOU TO BITS and would work his ass off, just at the hope of discovering something that would provide some improvement/relief on your symptoms)

•He went as far as to consider changing his medical field,but that's where you had to overstep and gently remind him the boundaries between him being your partner and him being your doctor.

You explained to him that there is no reason for him to abandon his life's work (blood researching) and that you would hate to see him leave from a field  he is really passionate about, just to make his life's goal and obsession around you

•He begrudgingly sees the reason behind your words and wont insist,but won't stop studying medical books,staying up to date with latest medical researches,and generally knowing almost as much about the disease as a rheumatologist does.

•However,It takes him a while to find the balance between caring for you as a partner,and caring for you as a doctor.He is constantly doting on you and being overprotective,because he has knowledge of every single thing that could go wrong.If you are on immunosuppressants,flu season makes him PARANOID.He can get a little bit overbearing at times,but you can't get mad at him because you know that only happens because he cares so deeply about you.If he gets too much for you to handle,you have a calm conversation where you explain to him that he needs to trust you more and that you know how to take care of your own body and it's needs.

*-Honey you don't need remind me to take my pills every 30 minutes,and me sneezing once does not mean I have the flu!*

•He finds the silver lining by prescribing to you *-all encompassing- warm,soft hugs and a thousand kisses*.Even though he is usually the little spoon,if you are in pain,he cradles you in his embrace,humming pirate tunes to you,his chin resting on your hair to make you calm and get the rest you need (ironically,he is very strict about your sleep schedule,which you make sure he follows as well,overall a win-win situation)

•If and when you need an arthrocentesis,he will insist on doing it himself just to be sure (even though doing a procedure like this on a loved one would stress him the fuck out).It's not that he doesn't trust your doctor,it is just that he hates not being in control of important situations,let alone one that has to do with your health.If the rheumatologist does not give in ,he will politely ask to be in the room with you,both to provide emotional support and calm his nerves by making sure everything's going well.

*Unwillingly creeps the rheumatologist out by watching at him like a hawk,his grip on your arm changing from soft to trembling to almost painful, *he feels so bad about it afterwards*

•He makes sure your house is always stocked up with every medicine you may need (ofc you have triple of every box),a cooling area if you are prescribed shots,top quality mobility aids(joint braces,bandages etc) and everything else you use to assist your symptoms

•Pepares you warm baths for joint pain relief with nevivon's best salts (and constant excursions on nevivon's springs if you wish)

•Generally amazed at how you well manage and handle everything about your disease.He has seen enough on his adventures to know how to judge a real badass,and you are definetely one in his book

🦊🔮🦊🔮Asra🦊🔮🦊🔮🦊

•Since you were so close,you had told him about your disease way before the events of the game and he admired you so much for your strength,his heart breaking every time you have a flair.He is always able to see through your mask,when you keep trying to hide the fact that you are in pain.

•However unfortunately,seeing your friend/friend with tension/lover (depends on how  you imagine your MC's past with Asra) going through something and taking care of him while he is non-verbal and not remembering anything about the world is 2 total different things.

•Things were hard at first.When you first came back,you were constantly stressed,overwhelmed and generally terrified.This induced a lot of flairs,which was also something you couldn't understand but had to process.He would know you would experience a flair/symptoms by either seeing you sleeping unsually much,or at worst finding you having an anxiety attack or tearing up because you would have some sort of new pain that you couldn't understand how  came to be.He would hold you in his arms,whispering sweet nothings until you calmed down,and then he would patiently try to understand where it hurts and how he could help you.

•Had to basically research everything about the disease from the start.He did the mistake of trying to not involve any doctors because he didn't know how to explain the situation of you being at that state.However, seeing he could not help you with only remedies and magic, he found a rheumatologist he trusted and told them that you suffered amnesia from a spell that had gone wrong,never dwelling into the subject.

•If you are going through a mild flair that allows you to go through your day,he will randomly come and hug you from behind,kiss your cheek and ask you if you are ACTUALLY aware of how strong you are.

•Never one to mansplain you about your disease,but he can get really annoyed if he sees you unnecessary overworking yourself

•It actually was the reason of the first  real arguement you had as a couple.

*-Sweetie,I love you so much,and I am so grateful for your love and concern,but you can't just tell me that you know better than me about how much I can take

-*sighs*

I am just telling you that you don't know how much toll something can have in your system.

-I happen to know my own body,thank you very much

-I just don't want to see you in pain!!! *Snaps,visibly upset,since he knew how bad a flair can be from back when was taking care of you*

-Why don't you take one of your little trips to save yourself from the burden?

*Generally hurt and guilty because of the times a flair happened midwhile he was gone*

-I...*sighs and leaves the room with you realizing you took it too far*

Since you both have valid points,you end up calmly talking things out,you agreeing to not push yourself to the limits ,and him making less and more discreet interventions.

•If he knows something,is how to make an environment relaxing.Your home is full of soft pillows,blankets and candles,ready to create the perfect atmosphere for you to relax when necessary.He also taught you how to medicate to regulate strong negative emotions to limit them from triggering your symptoms.

•Firm believer of the fact that magic and science can be used together when it comes to healing.Teaching you some very useful pain relieving spells,cooling spells for when your joints are inflamed, and recipes for many herbs and homemade remedies for any vitamin deficiency caused by your medication

•His cooking is the only food that is still tastes good after cutting salt because of prednisone.He knows how to use  spices,you could barely tell the difference.

•Generally seeing the process you made,going full independent like you used to,never letting your pain take your spirit down and fighting lupus off like champ (FUCKING SAVIN THE WORLD)makes him the proudest person alive,secretly tearing up when he thinks about it.

So...

That was it guys,It was a little longer than I expected but this concept hits close to home so kinda had a lot to say.I wanted to have a Nadia in this post as well,but her headcannons lowkey turned into a one-shot,so I will post it separately.I hope you liked it🩷🤍.

✨️Feel free to ask me for headcannon ideas you would like to see✨️

Eva♡

[pykanico]

Day 12 - Costumes

Fic if you want to read every posted day : https://archiveofourown.org/works/51386731/chapters/129854215

“No”

“Come on Emmy, it’s just two small things, and you will be even more stunning in your costume, Just let me put it”

“Nope”

“Emmet, I am desperate to win this, and you would match Ingo!!”

“I refuse”

Ingo was on the couch, sipping on his tea carefully trying to not let some of the hot drink fall on the costume Elesa put so much effort into create, ignoring Emmet who was walking around pretty fast with his own incomplete costume, and Elesa, who was trying to catch on him, with in her hand the two accessory she needed to add on his brother, her own costume already put.

“You told me that you were okay with this costume yesterday”

“I do not remember that”

As they continued to run around, Ingo finally decided to intervene, As much as he thought that the situation was entertaining, he couldn't let this continue for much longer to not get too much out of schedule.

He simply put his cup of tea on the table, got up, and, at the moment Emmet was close enough, caught him by the arm before he could run even more.

“This have to stop Emmet, I know that you are nervous about being in this costume, but you promised her that you were going to help”

Emmet let out a grumble of displeasure, but seemed to resign himself to his fate. “Fine, I am Emmet and I am not happy with that, but you are right, I promised, that would be verrry bad to break my promise”

Elesa slowly walked closer to put the last detail of Emmet’s costume in place, before backing away with a winning smile at the result of her hard work “That is perfect, everyone will be stun by how bright we look!!”

She realized that his twin was clearly shaking with nervous energy, turning her attention to him with concern, Ingo would be lying if he was not a minimum concern too “Hey, it’s okay to be nervous Emmet, I don’t look like it but you would be surprised to know that I am too, it’s just a contest, yes, but for me it is very important, this is why i told myself that everything will be fine, you know why?”

Emmet simply shook his head “no”

“I know it, because we are all together in this, and I have to say, we look fucking great with our costume”

That seems to earn a laugh from Emmet, nodding a bit at Elesa sentence “We look fucking great in them” Ingo, on the other hand, rolls his eyes but is more than happy that his brother calmed down slightly.

“Language Emmet”

“Huh!? Why only me?" Complain his twin, looking betrayal by being the only one to have been target, Ingo could only shrug, amusement creeping in him.

“Emmet, I do not see what you are talking about, you are the only one I heard swear” His brother gasped loudly as Elesa laughed to her heart content at his twin complain.

“I am Ingo’s favorite sibling Emmet”

“You are not!!”

As the two seemed to be bickering about who was the favorite, Ingo could only accept the fact that they were going to be a bit late. Well, it’s fine, as long as his brother and best friend are happy...

[tactician]

1, 2, 3, 4, 9, 10, 16

major arcana questions

THANK YOU CODY!!!!!!!! YIPPEE!!!

01. the magician: how does your muse feel about fate? do they believe they can change their own destiny? reides puts a lot of trust in fate, tbh!!! maybe surprisingly so? like, he's very free-spirited, so the stereotypical approach to it (i.e. the thought of being stuck on a set path, regardless of what one does - a total lack of free will) would obviously disturb him. and ofc he grew up with that mindset all around him, since he's royal blood and all. but his personal approach to it is pretty... fluid. he doesn't see himself as its pawn, but as an active participant in collaborating with it. it's pretty similar to his approach to religion. he does his own thing but he has faith that he's being guided in some way to the stuff that's right for him. it really helps him with staying optimistic, even if it means relinquishing a lil bit of his self-confidence. he mostly just thinks that some stuff is too important to attribute to luck - for example, he wasn't trying to be mushy or poetic when he told aske that they were destined to meet lmfao.

02. the high priestess: how does your muse make decisions? do they trust their instinct or would they rather trust their heart / their logic? i think trusting your instincts is pretty much the same as going with your heart, and reides is 100% the type to go with that first rather than his logic. i definitely don't want to undermine his analytical side because it totally does exist - he is A Smartypants, the resident 22int wizard of the gang - but he has to have this moment after he leaps up wherein he catches himself and reminds himself that he should probably think stuff through.

03. the empress: does your muse have parental / nurturing figures in their life? how do they impact them? OH BOY!!!!!!!! LFDGKDL;HKDFK well... he is very close to his mother, of course. arlyn taught him a whole lot about the world and protected him from stuff that even he has no idea about. i think her personality informed reides' a lot, too, since they have very similar senses of humor. and ofc they're both total troublemakers, though reides is a bit less cunning about it LMFAOOO. reides still struggles a bit with being overly trusting of others so he has to channel his mother's way of thinking (as he understands it) whenever he does things that require... slyness. for example, during the interrogations at the ball during our current campaign arc, he is totally thinking 'WHAT WOULD MY MOM DO!!!!!!!' at pretty much every moment LSDFKGJDFG. he missed her terribly when they weren't in contact with each other and looks back on their time apart with a whole lot of sadness. he's beyond grateful that they've since reunited and tbh i think he's going to take her lessons a whole lot more seriously now, since he's gonna be dealing with various courts a lot more from here on out.

as for his dad... his relationship with khavas is extremely complicated. it's gone from very cold to Horrifically Rocky to very... strained. but regardless of that, khavas has a huge impact on reides, even if reides would be loath to admit it. he thought he could never earn his father's approval no matter what, so he tried to convince himself to not care about getting it as a means of avoiding that sting of rejection over and over again. it's only recently that reides is more open to the truth of the matter, i.e. that he failed to convince himself about not caring and he wants his father's approval, even if it's the absolute bare minimum of just... gaining his respect. in that sense, i think khavas does motivate reides to do his best, but atm it's more like a steady, uncomfortable pressure versus something healthy.

related to that, reides' conversation with arlyn about khavas kind of implied that reides simply Doesn't Know how to pick up on khavas' support, so who tf knows what'll happen. they definitely have a ways to go - but despite all the pain that khavas has caused him, reides would never say that he hates his father. 04. the emperor: how much respect does your muse have for authority? why is this? as someone who was born into authority, reides has always been able to see what a ruse it is ;LFDKGLDF;KG OK NO JOKING ASIDE: he doesn't really respect authority figures simply for Being Authority Figures all that much. he has to see what people do with the power they've been given versus just accepting that he needs to listen to them simply because they have a particular job or title. admittedly, it's a stance that comes pretty easily to someone who is literally a prince. he really admires good leaders, though, so it's not like he's gonna be haughty to any of them by default.

09. the hermit: how introspective is your muse? how often do they self-reflect? reides journals a lot (not necessarily in the "DEAR DIARY, TODAY I SAW A SQUIRREL" way, but also through drawing, writing random quotes; very stream-of-conciousness stuff which might make no sense to anyone who happened to stumble upon his work lol), so with that comes a lot of self-reflecting. he tends to keep that sort of thing limited to his books, though, since expressing the darker side(s) of what he's going through can be a little difficult for him and he doesn't necessarily want to burden anyone with all o' that. 10. the wheel of fortune: how well / badly does your muse take setbacks on their goals? very badly lmao. reides is really stubborn so he's likely to try to push through the setback no matter what. i think he's probably seen some success with pushing through in certain instances, but, you know. he's definitely not one to just be like "oh damn that sucks :(" and throw in the towel. if he has to take an L he will be upset about it for a while before getting himself together and moving on.

16. the tower:  what event drastically changed your muse’s life? do they resent that event or are they glad of it? well you know... there's been a lot of lifechanging events in reides' world in the past year or so, but - first and foremost - the one literally involving a tower comes to mind. L;DKFFKG when khavas locked him away for his initial request to go to the surface, it definitely marked a huge turning point in reides' life. he had to start questioning everything; he fully thought that he lost everything. and he had to build everything up out of the wreckage. he will never be glad to have gone through it because it fucked him up quite a bit, but he's happy that he's managed to like, recover from it (for the most part) and gain strength despite having gone through it.

[maquyo0studios]

Luigi: You earned so much today

♌Leopaldo: Yeah, my night job is paying me well

Luigi: Oh? Night shifts? what's your job?

♌Leopaldo: Eh it's not that important to know what it is but the fact that your favorite son here is having fun and happy where he is. It's all to say that the information is not necessary.

Luigi: Weeell, I AM your father so I do have to know since you responded broadly.

⛎Luciano: *about to pass by reading a book*

Luigi: Hey Lucy. I wanna ask a question.

⛎Luciano: *Looks a bit concerned, then proceeds to look at Leopaldo, finally giving an uninterested look* *Sigh*... Yeah Papa. What is it?

Luigi: Do you know what job your little brother is working at?

⛎Luciano: *rolls his eyes, pinching above his nose whispering* uh um... *he then looks at Leopaldo disgusted*

♌Leopaldo: *gives his eldest brother a serious stare, reading "lie"*

⛎Luciano: *slightly cringes*uh... um... papa... ...do you... really want to know... that much?

Luigi: Of course I do, He always shows a bag of cash every week. I'm starting to think that he works in a business office at night finishing his documents

⛎Luciano: *his discomfort slightly grows on his face*

Luigi: ... or he's getting millions on selling his paintings on the streets at night...

⛎Luciano: *discomfort increases*

♌Leopaldo: *his discomfort showed in the minimum as he scratches the back of his ear*

Luigi: maybe... well to be more credible, He found a richer girl to suck her dry.

⛎Luciano: *the amount of rizz discomfort showed so visual that the audience will see his double chin exposed*

Luigi: *touching his chin while lost in thought* I mean it would terrible enough to say the least-

⛎Luciano: *Handling it no more interrupts his father* Papa he's a male bi-prostitute in a stripper bar club.

Luigi: *froze in awe*... ... ... huh?

♌Leopaldo: Yeah... I also have sex for money. I'm kind of the reason why the place became a five-star.

Luigi: ...uh

♌Leopaldo: *his face showed content again* Actually I have multiple jobs I do for a living.

Luigi: *surprised* um... really?

⛎Luciano: *stares at him showing no surprise* Actually Leo, why don't you tell him instead.

♌Leopaldo: *whips his hair* Well I WAS about to

⛎Luciano: *rolls his eyes while arms crossed*

Luigi: *sigh* well go on...

♌Leopaldo: *puts out a finger to each occupation* Aside the club job, I'm also a bi-host, porn star, rent-a-boyfriend, and I sell pictures.

Luigi: *bazard* ....huh... WHAT!?

⛎Luciano: *coldly stares at the situation silently hoping that his second brother would get yelled at*

Luigi: *pulsing in utter confusion* but, but why do you have to take these jobs... Aren't you afraid of getting infected?

♌Leopaldo: Papa I'm a demigod. I can't get a infection from humans. Plus I'm too perfectly polished for such a thing to let that happen. *head held high*

♊Lewis: *sashays up to Leo* Heyyy if it isn't my awesome sluty handsome miraculously strong brother.

♌Leopaldo: *his face dies out to slight annoyance* What do you want since I see you femboy dressed?

♊Lewis: *dramatically shocked offended by his response* Well I have you know that skirt and top sweater is perfect for today's weather. But sense the king whore asked...

♌Leopaldo: *crosses his arms with a side hip resting*

♊Lewis: *puppy eyes* Couwd yew give your cuwte bwothew mon-

♌Leopaldo: *cuts him off* no.

♊Lewis: *sasses out* Damn this bitch didn't even gave a chance. Ugh Talk about luck.

♊Lucas: *walks up* What's wrong?

♊Lewis: *dramatically hugs his twin's arm and whines* UUGH HE DOESN'T WANT TO LEND MONEYY!!

♊Lucas: Is he being stingy as fuck like always? *Cratching the side back of his nose* I mean... Logically I don't blame him. Leo-bitch is quite excellent on his finances than the bluehead work-a-holic art rat that burns his money away on dead dreams.

Leopaldo, yet annoyed by the name-calling, smirks at the side compliment as Liborio, about to bring his existence after six days working outdoors and indoors, finishing a portrait to show; clenches his art piece with insecurity and walks back into his room in silent oceanic waterfall tears trailing the floor with him.

♓Liborio: *whisper* So much for the good news on my project.

♊Lewis: *Looking slightly behind with a snickered smile* ...oops looks like he heard us.

Luigi yelled their names while the twins flinched in fear at Lupin's demanding voice as his left eye color turned green.

Lupin & Luigi: What did I tell you two about shit-talking your siblings like this?

♊Twins: *looks down, avoiding eye contact with a frown, then grunts* sooorrryyyy..

Lupin & Luigi: Not to me! Go to your brother!

♊Twins: *growled silently as they looked back at the trail of salt water with small flapping fishes, looking back at each other with a slight whimper* ..fine...

♌Leopaldo: *proceeds to pick four fishes and shallow in whole* Good luck cuz these fishes got some spice hmhm.

♊Twins: *Growls at Leopaldo*

♌Leopaldo: *growls back greater with of a lion and fox mixed together*

The twins stepped back intimidated. As they mumble secretly within each other they walked to his room. But in originality, they went throw a portal to their room. Futhermore, their moods changed after it closed.

♊Twins: *giggles in relief turned into hard laughter* That's a relief.

♊Lewis: Left like dad was gonna give the italian discipline in a second.

♊Lucas: Right?

♊Lewis: Anywaaays..... *devil's grin* did ya get it bae?

♊Lucas: Sure did.

Lucas digs in his hoody to pull out a leather wallet with rose stitch in with sparkly red string.

♊Lewis: *smile big with sparkles in his eyes* aaaaoooh yees. You're the best sweetie. *Jumps in for a hug*

♊Lucas: *blush slightly* It's not so big thing really. While he was distracted by the fishes I slid a hand in the dumbass then bam. No complications needed.

♊Lewis: *snatches the wallet slightly from above* Now the question will be answered, How much is in the little gorgeous wallet? *weighs it a bit* Now it's actually quite light.

♊Lucas: *he grins evilishly bigger and approaches closer* .... So that means...

Lewis then opens the wallet revealing five golden bank cards and one credit card. They are all from the high class that the rich could offered.

♊Twins: Bingoo...

[tameblog]

Coneflowers started out in the wild as humble prairie wildflowers, but these days, they’ve made the transition to must-have cultivated garden essentials. Some people grow these stunners for their ornamental value, while others make them a part of their medicinal herb garden. But what about those of us who lack the garden space for a big patch of echinacea? Or those who want to bring the beauty of the prairie to the patio? Not to worry – coneflowers grow well in containers! We link to vendors to help you find relevant products. If you buy from one of our links, we may earn a commission. In this guide, we’ll help you plant your coneflowers in pots so they can thrive. Coming up, here’s we’ll discuss: If you love coneflowers as much as I do, you’re probably excited to get started, so let’s dive in. The Ideal Container Coneflowers grow well in pots with one caveat: the pots must be the right size. These plants tend to have deep roots, particularly the less cultivated species. We’re talking over six feet deep for a three-foot-tall plant! This isn’t a plant that you can put in a shallow pot and expect to do well. However, not all coneflowers have such large root systems. The root structure is either made up of a long, fragile taproot with lateral roots and root hairs, or a fibrous root system. E. purpurea, the most common species, has a fibrous root system that grows much less deep than those with taproots. Photo by Kristine Lofgren. If you select one of the other species (E. pallida, E. angustifolia, or E. tennesseensis, for instance), make sure to select a deep container to hold that long taproot. You don’t need a pot that is six feet deep, but something in the neighborhood of 24 inches deep and a foot wide is a good minimum. E. purpurea can be grown in a more shallow container. Something 12  inches deep and wide is fine to start with. If you plan to create a mixed-plant container, make sure to choose something larger, as needed. Coneflowers grow well in groups with plants like bee balm, phlox, salvia, and anise hyssop. The material of the container is less important than the size. Because echinacea can handle heat, black or metal pots are fine, but they should be sturdy enough to stay upright when the coneflower is mature. A thin metal container can become surprisingly light when the soil has dried a bit. Combine that with a tall echinacea plant in full bloom, and you have the perfect conditions for your pot to tip right over. Terra cotta also works, but remember that these can crack or fall apart, especially in the winter. Concrete or stone pots are sturdier and don’t overheat as easily, but they can be heavy, and so they are hard to move. Fiberglass or wood are good alternatives because they don’t crack as easily and aren’t as heavy. Wood may rot, however, so it will require some maintenance to keep containers in good shape. Whichever you choose, make sure it has at least one good-sized drainage hole. An inch-wide hole or multiple quarter-inch holes for the aforementioned container sizes is ideal. Photo by Kristine Lofgren. If you’re worried about soil escaping out of the hole or holes, lay some mesh or newspaper over the openings before planting. You can purchase pre-cut mesh covers that are made to go over drainage holes. Flower Pot Hole Mesh Pad These round mesh hole covers by LE TAUCI come in packs of 50, which you can purchase at Amazon. Just be sure to hold them in place while you add the soil to ensure that they don’t shift around to the wrong spot. Choose Good Soil One thing that makes coneflowers particularly good for container growing is that they can handle drought. Containers tend to dry out more quickly than plants grown in the ground, which can spell disaster for a plant that needs constantly moist soil. Photo by Kristine Lofgren. Since coneflowers don’t need constant moisture, the risk of killing your plants by underwatering them isn’t high. Still, you want to pick a medium that retains water but is very well-draining. Coneflowers can’t survive in soggy, poorly-draining soil. An all-purpose potting soil is ideal, but unless it is specifically designed to retain water, amend it with some rice hulls to improve drainage and water retention. Rice hulls retain water while improving aeration. They’re also more sustainable than some alternatives like peat moss. They’ve been used for years by commercial growers, but these days, home growers can purchase them in smaller packages. Rice Hulls For instance, Arbico Organics carries quarter, half, or single cubic foot bags. Planting To plant, wait until the last expected frost date in your area. Remove the coneflower from its nursery pot, and gently loosen the roots and knock away any excess soil. Trim off any dead or damaged foliage. Place it in the container at the same level it was growing in the nursery pot. Fill in around it with potting soil and water well. Photo by Kristine Lofgren. When planting seeds, fill the pot with soil to about an inch from the top. Sow the seeds and then lightly cover with a quarter-inch of soil. Water well and keep moist. Within a few weeks, seedlings should emerge. You can also plant seeds in the fall, which has the added benefit of putting the seeds through cold stratification naturally. This generally results in better germination rates. The Right Location Coneflowers need full sun, though some varieties can handle partial shade. Put the container somewhere where it will receive enough light. Afternoon sunlight is ideal. You might also need to provide them with some protection from strong wind, since they can bend over and break when they’re standing there exposed in their container. You don’t need to do anything special for potted plants in the winter. Mulching or moving them indoors isn’t required, so long as you have picked a variety that is suited to your location. Speaking of which, when choosing a plant, add a USDA Hardiness Zone to the recommended range. For instance, if the plant info says it can survive down to Zone 3, assume that it won’t survive the winter below Zone 4 if it’s potted. Best Species and Cultivars Any type of coneflower can be grown in a pot, but some will stay confined to a more manageable size that makes them particularly container-appropriate. Butterfly Kisses E. purpurea ‘Butterfly Kisses’ stays under 18 inches tall with a compact growth habit. The double flowers have a bright pink center and a pale pink exterior. ‘Butterfly Kisses’ Grab a ‘Butterfly Kisses’ plant for your patio at Burpee. Chaquita For a truly teensy little coneflower, E. x ‘Chaquita’ is a purpurea hybrid with soft yellow petals and brown centers. Under a foot tall, it stays bushy and compact. Pixie Meadowbrite Echinacea ‘CBG Cone 2’ – better known as ‘Pixie Meadowbrite’ – is a dwarf E. purpurea cultivar that grows to about 20 inches tall, with one of the most compact growth habits I’ve ever seen. ‘Pixie Meadowbrite’ The flowers are lavender pink with orange centers. And don’t worry, the plant may stay petite, but the blooms aren’t. Nature Hills Nursery carries #1 containers of this perfect patio plant. PowWow White E. purpurea ‘PowWow White’ is a compact grower that never grows taller than 20 inches. The showy white flowers with orange centers make a nice architectural statement in mixed flower arrangements. ‘PowWow White’ To add this variety to your garden, make your way over to Nature Hills Nursery for a #1 container. Tweety If all of the plants above sound like they are still way too big to meet your needs, then check this out. E. x ‘Tweety’ is an absolutely diminutive miniature purpurea hybrid. It’s a compact plant that stays around six inches tall, but it can grow a few inches taller under ideal conditions. The flowers are sunny yellow with a brown center. Maintenance Coneflowers are pretty low-maintenance, even when you’re growing them in a pot. If you find the container is continually drying out despite your best efforts, put an inch of organic mulch on top of the soil. Replace it once a year. I use coffee bean chaff because a local roaster gives bags of the compost out to his customers. As it degrades into the soil, it adds nitrogen, and improves water retention and drainage. Straw, compost, or dry leaves work well, too. Keep the soil lightly moist, and let the top half of the soil dry out before adding more moisture. Stop watering when the plant is dormant, unless the soil becomes completely dry. Deadhead the flowers throughout the growing season, or leave them until the spring. How do you decide which is best? If you prefer your containers to have a neat and tidy appearance, you can clean up the plants by deadheading throughout the growing season, and you may even get a second (albeit smaller) round of blossoms this way. Otherwise, you can leave the seed heads in place as food for birds that visit your garden throughout the winter. Either way works equally well, it’s just a matter of preference. You can learn more about deadheading coneflowers in our guide. Coneflowers aren’t greedy when it comes to feeding, but since yours will be growing in a container, this means there are less nutrients available to them. You’ll need to be sure to fertilize twice each year, once in the early spring before blooming, and once in the summer while the plants are flowering. Use an all-purpose fertilizer that is safe for potted plants. I prefer Down to Earth because their products are natural, and they come in a biodegradable box. Their All Purpose Mix can be used for in-ground or container plants, and it is balanced for use on flowers. Down to Earth All Purpose Mix Don’t already have this gardening essential in your kit? Arbico Organics carries it in one-pound or five-pound boxes. You will also absolutely need to divide your plants every few years, or upgrade to a larger container. Or both. Echinacea is really good at spreading, and you need to keep it in check because most varieties will outgrow their containers easily. The purpurea species is the easiest to divide since it doesn’t have a long taproot, but you can divide other species as well. You can divide at any time of year, but ideally, do it in the spring before buds have formed, or in the fall after the blossoms are spent. To divide E. purpurea, remove it from the pot and knock away any loose soil. Then, cut down the center with a garden knife or a heavy-duty pair of scissors. Photo by Kristine Lofgren. If you have a species with a large taproot, you’ll need to be a bit more precise. Wash away all the soil from around the roots with a hose. Then, use a sharp knife or scissors to cut down the center of the taproot so that you have two basically equal halves with several growing eyes on each half. Whether your plant has fibrous roots or a taproot, replant the two halves in separate pots with fresh soil. Plants with taproots might be particularly shocked by the surgery and transition, but keep them watered and they’ll usually recover. Coneflowers are pretty tough, though any of them can be shocked while being repotted or divided, of course. If you have divided your plant, you can opt to simply replant it in the same container (or one of similar size) that you were using previously. Just be sure to fill it with fresh potting soil, since it can degrade, become compacted, and lose nutrients over time. However, if your divisions are still quite large, or if you opt to simply upgrade to a larger pot rather than dividing, you’ll need to figure out what size pot to use. Ideally, there will be a space of six inches extending from the plant to the edge of the pot on all sides. The roots should have at least six inches to extend down into the pot as well. Again, be sure to fill the container with new soil. Inevitably, as the coneflower seeds fall into the pot or surrounding area, a few of them will take hold and germinate. If you don’t want new plants growing, you can either pull the seedlings out and dispose of them, or carefully dig them up – roots and all – and transplant them to a more suitable spot. Coneflowers and Containers Make Marvelous Companions Coneflowers are such fabulous plants – relatively problem-free, beautiful, drought-tolerant, and versatile. No one should be without if they want some in their yard, or on their balcony, patio, or wherever they might add a welcome splash of floral splendor. Lucky for us, coneflowers are particularly suited to container growing. I’d love to hear which species or cultivar you end up with, and be sure to share if you come across a particularly good option for pots that wasn’t mentioned here. If you want to expand your coneflower garden or learn more about growing these flowering plants, we have some other guides that you might find useful: Photos by Kristine Lofgren © Ask the Experts, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. See our TOS for more details. Originally published July 17th, 2021. Last updated April 3rd, 2025. Product photos via Arbico Organics, Burpee, LE TAUCI Store, and Nature Hills Nursery. Uncredited photos: Shutterstock. !function(f,b,e,v,n,t,s) if(f.fbq)return;n=f.fbq=function()n.callMethod? n.callMethod.apply(n,arguments):n.queue.push(arguments); if(!f._fbq)f._fbq=n;n.push=n;n.loaded=!0;n.version='2.0'; n.queue=[];t=b.createElement(e);t.async=!0; t.src=v;s=b.getElementsByTagName(e)[0]; s.parentNode.insertBefore(t,s)(window, document,'script', ' fbq('init', '176410929431717'); fbq('track', 'PageView'); Source link

[ramestoryworld]

Coneflowers started out in the wild as humble prairie wildflowers, but these days, they’ve made the transition to must-have cultivated garden essentials. Some people grow these stunners for their ornamental value, while others make them a part of their medicinal herb garden. But what about those of us who lack the garden space for a big patch of echinacea? Or those who want to bring the beauty of the prairie to the patio? Not to worry – coneflowers grow well in containers! We link to vendors to help you find relevant products. If you buy from one of our links, we may earn a commission. In this guide, we’ll help you plant your coneflowers in pots so they can thrive. Coming up, here’s we’ll discuss: If you love coneflowers as much as I do, you’re probably excited to get started, so let’s dive in. The Ideal Container Coneflowers grow well in pots with one caveat: the pots must be the right size. These plants tend to have deep roots, particularly the less cultivated species. We’re talking over six feet deep for a three-foot-tall plant! This isn’t a plant that you can put in a shallow pot and expect to do well. However, not all coneflowers have such large root systems. The root structure is either made up of a long, fragile taproot with lateral roots and root hairs, or a fibrous root system. E. purpurea, the most common species, has a fibrous root system that grows much less deep than those with taproots. Photo by Kristine Lofgren. If you select one of the other species (E. pallida, E. angustifolia, or E. tennesseensis, for instance), make sure to select a deep container to hold that long taproot. You don’t need a pot that is six feet deep, but something in the neighborhood of 24 inches deep and a foot wide is a good minimum. E. purpurea can be grown in a more shallow container. Something 12  inches deep and wide is fine to start with. If you plan to create a mixed-plant container, make sure to choose something larger, as needed. Coneflowers grow well in groups with plants like bee balm, phlox, salvia, and anise hyssop. The material of the container is less important than the size. Because echinacea can handle heat, black or metal pots are fine, but they should be sturdy enough to stay upright when the coneflower is mature. A thin metal container can become surprisingly light when the soil has dried a bit. Combine that with a tall echinacea plant in full bloom, and you have the perfect conditions for your pot to tip right over. Terra cotta also works, but remember that these can crack or fall apart, especially in the winter. Concrete or stone pots are sturdier and don’t overheat as easily, but they can be heavy, and so they are hard to move. Fiberglass or wood are good alternatives because they don’t crack as easily and aren’t as heavy. Wood may rot, however, so it will require some maintenance to keep containers in good shape. Whichever you choose, make sure it has at least one good-sized drainage hole. An inch-wide hole or multiple quarter-inch holes for the aforementioned container sizes is ideal. Photo by Kristine Lofgren. If you’re worried about soil escaping out of the hole or holes, lay some mesh or newspaper over the openings before planting. You can purchase pre-cut mesh covers that are made to go over drainage holes. Flower Pot Hole Mesh Pad These round mesh hole covers by LE TAUCI come in packs of 50, which you can purchase at Amazon. Just be sure to hold them in place while you add the soil to ensure that they don’t shift around to the wrong spot. Choose Good Soil One thing that makes coneflowers particularly good for container growing is that they can handle drought. Containers tend to dry out more quickly than plants grown in the ground, which can spell disaster for a plant that needs constantly moist soil. Photo by Kristine Lofgren. Since coneflowers don’t need constant moisture, the risk of killing your plants by underwatering them isn’t high. Still, you want to pick a medium that retains water but is very well-draining. Coneflowers can’t survive in soggy, poorly-draining soil. An all-purpose potting soil is ideal, but unless it is specifically designed to retain water, amend it with some rice hulls to improve drainage and water retention. Rice hulls retain water while improving aeration. They’re also more sustainable than some alternatives like peat moss. They’ve been used for years by commercial growers, but these days, home growers can purchase them in smaller packages. Rice Hulls For instance, Arbico Organics carries quarter, half, or single cubic foot bags. Planting To plant, wait until the last expected frost date in your area. Remove the coneflower from its nursery pot, and gently loosen the roots and knock away any excess soil. Trim off any dead or damaged foliage. Place it in the container at the same level it was growing in the nursery pot. Fill in around it with potting soil and water well. Photo by Kristine Lofgren. When planting seeds, fill the pot with soil to about an inch from the top. Sow the seeds and then lightly cover with a quarter-inch of soil. Water well and keep moist. Within a few weeks, seedlings should emerge. You can also plant seeds in the fall, which has the added benefit of putting the seeds through cold stratification naturally. This generally results in better germination rates. The Right Location Coneflowers need full sun, though some varieties can handle partial shade. Put the container somewhere where it will receive enough light. Afternoon sunlight is ideal. You might also need to provide them with some protection from strong wind, since they can bend over and break when they’re standing there exposed in their container. You don’t need to do anything special for potted plants in the winter. Mulching or moving them indoors isn’t required, so long as you have picked a variety that is suited to your location. Speaking of which, when choosing a plant, add a USDA Hardiness Zone to the recommended range. For instance, if the plant info says it can survive down to Zone 3, assume that it won’t survive the winter below Zone 4 if it’s potted. Best Species and Cultivars Any type of coneflower can be grown in a pot, but some will stay confined to a more manageable size that makes them particularly container-appropriate. Butterfly Kisses E. purpurea ‘Butterfly Kisses’ stays under 18 inches tall with a compact growth habit. The double flowers have a bright pink center and a pale pink exterior. ‘Butterfly Kisses’ Grab a ‘Butterfly Kisses’ plant for your patio at Burpee. Chaquita For a truly teensy little coneflower, E. x ‘Chaquita’ is a purpurea hybrid with soft yellow petals and brown centers. Under a foot tall, it stays bushy and compact. Pixie Meadowbrite Echinacea ‘CBG Cone 2’ – better known as ‘Pixie Meadowbrite’ – is a dwarf E. purpurea cultivar that grows to about 20 inches tall, with one of the most compact growth habits I’ve ever seen. ‘Pixie Meadowbrite’ The flowers are lavender pink with orange centers. And don’t worry, the plant may stay petite, but the blooms aren’t. Nature Hills Nursery carries #1 containers of this perfect patio plant. PowWow White E. purpurea ‘PowWow White’ is a compact grower that never grows taller than 20 inches. The showy white flowers with orange centers make a nice architectural statement in mixed flower arrangements. ‘PowWow White’ To add this variety to your garden, make your way over to Nature Hills Nursery for a #1 container. Tweety If all of the plants above sound like they are still way too big to meet your needs, then check this out. E. x ‘Tweety’ is an absolutely diminutive miniature purpurea hybrid. It’s a compact plant that stays around six inches tall, but it can grow a few inches taller under ideal conditions. The flowers are sunny yellow with a brown center. Maintenance Coneflowers are pretty low-maintenance, even when you’re growing them in a pot. If you find the container is continually drying out despite your best efforts, put an inch of organic mulch on top of the soil. Replace it once a year. I use coffee bean chaff because a local roaster gives bags of the compost out to his customers. As it degrades into the soil, it adds nitrogen, and improves water retention and drainage. Straw, compost, or dry leaves work well, too. Keep the soil lightly moist, and let the top half of the soil dry out before adding more moisture. Stop watering when the plant is dormant, unless the soil becomes completely dry. Deadhead the flowers throughout the growing season, or leave them until the spring. How do you decide which is best? If you prefer your containers to have a neat and tidy appearance, you can clean up the plants by deadheading throughout the growing season, and you may even get a second (albeit smaller) round of blossoms this way. Otherwise, you can leave the seed heads in place as food for birds that visit your garden throughout the winter. Either way works equally well, it’s just a matter of preference. You can learn more about deadheading coneflowers in our guide. Coneflowers aren’t greedy when it comes to feeding, but since yours will be growing in a container, this means there are less nutrients available to them. You’ll need to be sure to fertilize twice each year, once in the early spring before blooming, and once in the summer while the plants are flowering. Use an all-purpose fertilizer that is safe for potted plants. I prefer Down to Earth because their products are natural, and they come in a biodegradable box. Their All Purpose Mix can be used for in-ground or container plants, and it is balanced for use on flowers. Down to Earth All Purpose Mix Don’t already have this gardening essential in your kit? Arbico Organics carries it in one-pound or five-pound boxes. You will also absolutely need to divide your plants every few years, or upgrade to a larger container. Or both. Echinacea is really good at spreading, and you need to keep it in check because most varieties will outgrow their containers easily. The purpurea species is the easiest to divide since it doesn’t have a long taproot, but you can divide other species as well. You can divide at any time of year, but ideally, do it in the spring before buds have formed, or in the fall after the blossoms are spent. To divide E. purpurea, remove it from the pot and knock away any loose soil. Then, cut down the center with a garden knife or a heavy-duty pair of scissors. Photo by Kristine Lofgren. If you have a species with a large taproot, you’ll need to be a bit more precise. Wash away all the soil from around the roots with a hose. Then, use a sharp knife or scissors to cut down the center of the taproot so that you have two basically equal halves with several growing eyes on each half. Whether your plant has fibrous roots or a taproot, replant the two halves in separate pots with fresh soil. Plants with taproots might be particularly shocked by the surgery and transition, but keep them watered and they’ll usually recover. Coneflowers are pretty tough, though any of them can be shocked while being repotted or divided, of course. If you have divided your plant, you can opt to simply replant it in the same container (or one of similar size) that you were using previously. Just be sure to fill it with fresh potting soil, since it can degrade, become compacted, and lose nutrients over time. However, if your divisions are still quite large, or if you opt to simply upgrade to a larger pot rather than dividing, you’ll need to figure out what size pot to use. Ideally, there will be a space of six inches extending from the plant to the edge of the pot on all sides. The roots should have at least six inches to extend down into the pot as well. Again, be sure to fill the container with new soil. Inevitably, as the coneflower seeds fall into the pot or surrounding area, a few of them will take hold and germinate. If you don’t want new plants growing, you can either pull the seedlings out and dispose of them, or carefully dig them up – roots and all – and transplant them to a more suitable spot. Coneflowers and Containers Make Marvelous Companions Coneflowers are such fabulous plants – relatively problem-free, beautiful, drought-tolerant, and versatile. No one should be without if they want some in their yard, or on their balcony, patio, or wherever they might add a welcome splash of floral splendor. Lucky for us, coneflowers are particularly suited to container growing. I’d love to hear which species or cultivar you end up with, and be sure to share if you come across a particularly good option for pots that wasn’t mentioned here. If you want to expand your coneflower garden or learn more about growing these flowering plants, we have some other guides that you might find useful: Photos by Kristine Lofgren © Ask the Experts, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. See our TOS for more details. Originally published July 17th, 2021. Last updated April 3rd, 2025. Product photos via Arbico Organics, Burpee, LE TAUCI Store, and Nature Hills Nursery. Uncredited photos: Shutterstock. !function(f,b,e,v,n,t,s) if(f.fbq)return;n=f.fbq=function()n.callMethod? n.callMethod.apply(n,arguments):n.queue.push(arguments); if(!f._fbq)f._fbq=n;n.push=n;n.loaded=!0;n.version='2.0'; n.queue=[];t=b.createElement(e);t.async=!0; t.src=v;s=b.getElementsByTagName(e)[0]; s.parentNode.insertBefore(t,s)(window, document,'script', ' fbq('init', '176410929431717'); fbq('track', 'PageView'); Source link

[alexha2210]

Coneflowers started out in the wild as humble prairie wildflowers, but these days, they’ve made the transition to must-have cultivated garden essentials. Some people grow these stunners for their ornamental value, while others make them a part of their medicinal herb garden. But what about those of us who lack the garden space for a big patch of echinacea? Or those who want to bring the beauty of the prairie to the patio? Not to worry – coneflowers grow well in containers! We link to vendors to help you find relevant products. If you buy from one of our links, we may earn a commission. In this guide, we’ll help you plant your coneflowers in pots so they can thrive. Coming up, here’s we’ll discuss: If you love coneflowers as much as I do, you’re probably excited to get started, so let’s dive in. The Ideal Container Coneflowers grow well in pots with one caveat: the pots must be the right size. These plants tend to have deep roots, particularly the less cultivated species. We’re talking over six feet deep for a three-foot-tall plant! This isn’t a plant that you can put in a shallow pot and expect to do well. However, not all coneflowers have such large root systems. The root structure is either made up of a long, fragile taproot with lateral roots and root hairs, or a fibrous root system. E. purpurea, the most common species, has a fibrous root system that grows much less deep than those with taproots. Photo by Kristine Lofgren. If you select one of the other species (E. pallida, E. angustifolia, or E. tennesseensis, for instance), make sure to select a deep container to hold that long taproot. You don’t need a pot that is six feet deep, but something in the neighborhood of 24 inches deep and a foot wide is a good minimum. E. purpurea can be grown in a more shallow container. Something 12  inches deep and wide is fine to start with. If you plan to create a mixed-plant container, make sure to choose something larger, as needed. Coneflowers grow well in groups with plants like bee balm, phlox, salvia, and anise hyssop. The material of the container is less important than the size. Because echinacea can handle heat, black or metal pots are fine, but they should be sturdy enough to stay upright when the coneflower is mature. A thin metal container can become surprisingly light when the soil has dried a bit. Combine that with a tall echinacea plant in full bloom, and you have the perfect conditions for your pot to tip right over. Terra cotta also works, but remember that these can crack or fall apart, especially in the winter. Concrete or stone pots are sturdier and don’t overheat as easily, but they can be heavy, and so they are hard to move. Fiberglass or wood are good alternatives because they don’t crack as easily and aren’t as heavy. Wood may rot, however, so it will require some maintenance to keep containers in good shape. Whichever you choose, make sure it has at least one good-sized drainage hole. An inch-wide hole or multiple quarter-inch holes for the aforementioned container sizes is ideal. Photo by Kristine Lofgren. If you’re worried about soil escaping out of the hole or holes, lay some mesh or newspaper over the openings before planting. You can purchase pre-cut mesh covers that are made to go over drainage holes. Flower Pot Hole Mesh Pad These round mesh hole covers by LE TAUCI come in packs of 50, which you can purchase at Amazon. Just be sure to hold them in place while you add the soil to ensure that they don’t shift around to the wrong spot. Choose Good Soil One thing that makes coneflowers particularly good for container growing is that they can handle drought. Containers tend to dry out more quickly than plants grown in the ground, which can spell disaster for a plant that needs constantly moist soil. Photo by Kristine Lofgren. Since coneflowers don’t need constant moisture, the risk of killing your plants by underwatering them isn’t high. Still, you want to pick a medium that retains water but is very well-draining. Coneflowers can’t survive in soggy, poorly-draining soil. An all-purpose potting soil is ideal, but unless it is specifically designed to retain water, amend it with some rice hulls to improve drainage and water retention. Rice hulls retain water while improving aeration. They’re also more sustainable than some alternatives like peat moss. They’ve been used for years by commercial growers, but these days, home growers can purchase them in smaller packages. Rice Hulls For instance, Arbico Organics carries quarter, half, or single cubic foot bags. Planting To plant, wait until the last expected frost date in your area. Remove the coneflower from its nursery pot, and gently loosen the roots and knock away any excess soil. Trim off any dead or damaged foliage. Place it in the container at the same level it was growing in the nursery pot. Fill in around it with potting soil and water well. Photo by Kristine Lofgren. When planting seeds, fill the pot with soil to about an inch from the top. Sow the seeds and then lightly cover with a quarter-inch of soil. Water well and keep moist. Within a few weeks, seedlings should emerge. You can also plant seeds in the fall, which has the added benefit of putting the seeds through cold stratification naturally. This generally results in better germination rates. The Right Location Coneflowers need full sun, though some varieties can handle partial shade. Put the container somewhere where it will receive enough light. Afternoon sunlight is ideal. You might also need to provide them with some protection from strong wind, since they can bend over and break when they’re standing there exposed in their container. You don’t need to do anything special for potted plants in the winter. Mulching or moving them indoors isn’t required, so long as you have picked a variety that is suited to your location. Speaking of which, when choosing a plant, add a USDA Hardiness Zone to the recommended range. For instance, if the plant info says it can survive down to Zone 3, assume that it won’t survive the winter below Zone 4 if it’s potted. Best Species and Cultivars Any type of coneflower can be grown in a pot, but some will stay confined to a more manageable size that makes them particularly container-appropriate. Butterfly Kisses E. purpurea ‘Butterfly Kisses’ stays under 18 inches tall with a compact growth habit. The double flowers have a bright pink center and a pale pink exterior. ‘Butterfly Kisses’ Grab a ‘Butterfly Kisses’ plant for your patio at Burpee. Chaquita For a truly teensy little coneflower, E. x ‘Chaquita’ is a purpurea hybrid with soft yellow petals and brown centers. Under a foot tall, it stays bushy and compact. Pixie Meadowbrite Echinacea ‘CBG Cone 2’ – better known as ‘Pixie Meadowbrite’ – is a dwarf E. purpurea cultivar that grows to about 20 inches tall, with one of the most compact growth habits I’ve ever seen. ‘Pixie Meadowbrite’ The flowers are lavender pink with orange centers. And don’t worry, the plant may stay petite, but the blooms aren’t. Nature Hills Nursery carries #1 containers of this perfect patio plant. PowWow White E. purpurea ‘PowWow White’ is a compact grower that never grows taller than 20 inches. The showy white flowers with orange centers make a nice architectural statement in mixed flower arrangements. ‘PowWow White’ To add this variety to your garden, make your way over to Nature Hills Nursery for a #1 container. Tweety If all of the plants above sound like they are still way too big to meet your needs, then check this out. E. x ‘Tweety’ is an absolutely diminutive miniature purpurea hybrid. It’s a compact plant that stays around six inches tall, but it can grow a few inches taller under ideal conditions. The flowers are sunny yellow with a brown center. Maintenance Coneflowers are pretty low-maintenance, even when you’re growing them in a pot. If you find the container is continually drying out despite your best efforts, put an inch of organic mulch on top of the soil. Replace it once a year. I use coffee bean chaff because a local roaster gives bags of the compost out to his customers. As it degrades into the soil, it adds nitrogen, and improves water retention and drainage. Straw, compost, or dry leaves work well, too. Keep the soil lightly moist, and let the top half of the soil dry out before adding more moisture. Stop watering when the plant is dormant, unless the soil becomes completely dry. Deadhead the flowers throughout the growing season, or leave them until the spring. How do you decide which is best? If you prefer your containers to have a neat and tidy appearance, you can clean up the plants by deadheading throughout the growing season, and you may even get a second (albeit smaller) round of blossoms this way. Otherwise, you can leave the seed heads in place as food for birds that visit your garden throughout the winter. Either way works equally well, it’s just a matter of preference. You can learn more about deadheading coneflowers in our guide. Coneflowers aren’t greedy when it comes to feeding, but since yours will be growing in a container, this means there are less nutrients available to them. You’ll need to be sure to fertilize twice each year, once in the early spring before blooming, and once in the summer while the plants are flowering. Use an all-purpose fertilizer that is safe for potted plants. I prefer Down to Earth because their products are natural, and they come in a biodegradable box. Their All Purpose Mix can be used for in-ground or container plants, and it is balanced for use on flowers. Down to Earth All Purpose Mix Don’t already have this gardening essential in your kit? Arbico Organics carries it in one-pound or five-pound boxes. You will also absolutely need to divide your plants every few years, or upgrade to a larger container. Or both. Echinacea is really good at spreading, and you need to keep it in check because most varieties will outgrow their containers easily. The purpurea species is the easiest to divide since it doesn’t have a long taproot, but you can divide other species as well. You can divide at any time of year, but ideally, do it in the spring before buds have formed, or in the fall after the blossoms are spent. To divide E. purpurea, remove it from the pot and knock away any loose soil. Then, cut down the center with a garden knife or a heavy-duty pair of scissors. Photo by Kristine Lofgren. If you have a species with a large taproot, you’ll need to be a bit more precise. Wash away all the soil from around the roots with a hose. Then, use a sharp knife or scissors to cut down the center of the taproot so that you have two basically equal halves with several growing eyes on each half. Whether your plant has fibrous roots or a taproot, replant the two halves in separate pots with fresh soil. Plants with taproots might be particularly shocked by the surgery and transition, but keep them watered and they’ll usually recover. Coneflowers are pretty tough, though any of them can be shocked while being repotted or divided, of course. If you have divided your plant, you can opt to simply replant it in the same container (or one of similar size) that you were using previously. Just be sure to fill it with fresh potting soil, since it can degrade, become compacted, and lose nutrients over time. However, if your divisions are still quite large, or if you opt to simply upgrade to a larger pot rather than dividing, you’ll need to figure out what size pot to use. Ideally, there will be a space of six inches extending from the plant to the edge of the pot on all sides. The roots should have at least six inches to extend down into the pot as well. Again, be sure to fill the container with new soil. Inevitably, as the coneflower seeds fall into the pot or surrounding area, a few of them will take hold and germinate. If you don’t want new plants growing, you can either pull the seedlings out and dispose of them, or carefully dig them up – roots and all – and transplant them to a more suitable spot. Coneflowers and Containers Make Marvelous Companions Coneflowers are such fabulous plants – relatively problem-free, beautiful, drought-tolerant, and versatile. No one should be without if they want some in their yard, or on their balcony, patio, or wherever they might add a welcome splash of floral splendor. Lucky for us, coneflowers are particularly suited to container growing. I’d love to hear which species or cultivar you end up with, and be sure to share if you come across a particularly good option for pots that wasn’t mentioned here. If you want to expand your coneflower garden or learn more about growing these flowering plants, we have some other guides that you might find useful: Photos by Kristine Lofgren © Ask the Experts, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. See our TOS for more details. Originally published July 17th, 2021. Last updated April 3rd, 2025. Product photos via Arbico Organics, Burpee, LE TAUCI Store, and Nature Hills Nursery. Uncredited photos: Shutterstock. !function(f,b,e,v,n,t,s) if(f.fbq)return;n=f.fbq=function()n.callMethod? n.callMethod.apply(n,arguments):n.queue.push(arguments); if(!f._fbq)f._fbq=n;n.push=n;n.loaded=!0;n.version='2.0'; n.queue=[];t=b.createElement(e);t.async=!0; t.src=v;s=b.getElementsByTagName(e)[0]; s.parentNode.insertBefore(t,s)(window, document,'script', ' fbq('init', '176410929431717'); fbq('track', 'PageView'); Source link

[angusstory]

Coneflowers started out in the wild as humble prairie wildflowers, but these days, they’ve made the transition to must-have cultivated garden essentials. Some people grow these stunners for their ornamental value, while others make them a part of their medicinal herb garden. But what about those of us who lack the garden space for a big patch of echinacea? Or those who want to bring the beauty of the prairie to the patio? Not to worry – coneflowers grow well in containers! We link to vendors to help you find relevant products. If you buy from one of our links, we may earn a commission. In this guide, we’ll help you plant your coneflowers in pots so they can thrive. Coming up, here’s we’ll discuss: If you love coneflowers as much as I do, you’re probably excited to get started, so let’s dive in. The Ideal Container Coneflowers grow well in pots with one caveat: the pots must be the right size. These plants tend to have deep roots, particularly the less cultivated species. We’re talking over six feet deep for a three-foot-tall plant! This isn’t a plant that you can put in a shallow pot and expect to do well. However, not all coneflowers have such large root systems. The root structure is either made up of a long, fragile taproot with lateral roots and root hairs, or a fibrous root system. E. purpurea, the most common species, has a fibrous root system that grows much less deep than those with taproots. Photo by Kristine Lofgren. If you select one of the other species (E. pallida, E. angustifolia, or E. tennesseensis, for instance), make sure to select a deep container to hold that long taproot. You don’t need a pot that is six feet deep, but something in the neighborhood of 24 inches deep and a foot wide is a good minimum. E. purpurea can be grown in a more shallow container. Something 12  inches deep and wide is fine to start with. If you plan to create a mixed-plant container, make sure to choose something larger, as needed. Coneflowers grow well in groups with plants like bee balm, phlox, salvia, and anise hyssop. The material of the container is less important than the size. Because echinacea can handle heat, black or metal pots are fine, but they should be sturdy enough to stay upright when the coneflower is mature. A thin metal container can become surprisingly light when the soil has dried a bit. Combine that with a tall echinacea plant in full bloom, and you have the perfect conditions for your pot to tip right over. Terra cotta also works, but remember that these can crack or fall apart, especially in the winter. Concrete or stone pots are sturdier and don’t overheat as easily, but they can be heavy, and so they are hard to move. Fiberglass or wood are good alternatives because they don’t crack as easily and aren’t as heavy. Wood may rot, however, so it will require some maintenance to keep containers in good shape. Whichever you choose, make sure it has at least one good-sized drainage hole. An inch-wide hole or multiple quarter-inch holes for the aforementioned container sizes is ideal. Photo by Kristine Lofgren. If you’re worried about soil escaping out of the hole or holes, lay some mesh or newspaper over the openings before planting. You can purchase pre-cut mesh covers that are made to go over drainage holes. Flower Pot Hole Mesh Pad These round mesh hole covers by LE TAUCI come in packs of 50, which you can purchase at Amazon. Just be sure to hold them in place while you add the soil to ensure that they don’t shift around to the wrong spot. Choose Good Soil One thing that makes coneflowers particularly good for container growing is that they can handle drought. Containers tend to dry out more quickly than plants grown in the ground, which can spell disaster for a plant that needs constantly moist soil. Photo by Kristine Lofgren. Since coneflowers don’t need constant moisture, the risk of killing your plants by underwatering them isn’t high. Still, you want to pick a medium that retains water but is very well-draining. Coneflowers can’t survive in soggy, poorly-draining soil. An all-purpose potting soil is ideal, but unless it is specifically designed to retain water, amend it with some rice hulls to improve drainage and water retention. Rice hulls retain water while improving aeration. They’re also more sustainable than some alternatives like peat moss. They’ve been used for years by commercial growers, but these days, home growers can purchase them in smaller packages. Rice Hulls For instance, Arbico Organics carries quarter, half, or single cubic foot bags. Planting To plant, wait until the last expected frost date in your area. Remove the coneflower from its nursery pot, and gently loosen the roots and knock away any excess soil. Trim off any dead or damaged foliage. Place it in the container at the same level it was growing in the nursery pot. Fill in around it with potting soil and water well. Photo by Kristine Lofgren. When planting seeds, fill the pot with soil to about an inch from the top. Sow the seeds and then lightly cover with a quarter-inch of soil. Water well and keep moist. Within a few weeks, seedlings should emerge. You can also plant seeds in the fall, which has the added benefit of putting the seeds through cold stratification naturally. This generally results in better germination rates. The Right Location Coneflowers need full sun, though some varieties can handle partial shade. Put the container somewhere where it will receive enough light. Afternoon sunlight is ideal. You might also need to provide them with some protection from strong wind, since they can bend over and break when they’re standing there exposed in their container. You don’t need to do anything special for potted plants in the winter. Mulching or moving them indoors isn’t required, so long as you have picked a variety that is suited to your location. Speaking of which, when choosing a plant, add a USDA Hardiness Zone to the recommended range. For instance, if the plant info says it can survive down to Zone 3, assume that it won’t survive the winter below Zone 4 if it’s potted. Best Species and Cultivars Any type of coneflower can be grown in a pot, but some will stay confined to a more manageable size that makes them particularly container-appropriate. Butterfly Kisses E. purpurea ‘Butterfly Kisses’ stays under 18 inches tall with a compact growth habit. The double flowers have a bright pink center and a pale pink exterior. ‘Butterfly Kisses’ Grab a ‘Butterfly Kisses’ plant for your patio at Burpee. Chaquita For a truly teensy little coneflower, E. x ‘Chaquita’ is a purpurea hybrid with soft yellow petals and brown centers. Under a foot tall, it stays bushy and compact. Pixie Meadowbrite Echinacea ‘CBG Cone 2’ – better known as ‘Pixie Meadowbrite’ – is a dwarf E. purpurea cultivar that grows to about 20 inches tall, with one of the most compact growth habits I’ve ever seen. ‘Pixie Meadowbrite’ The flowers are lavender pink with orange centers. And don’t worry, the plant may stay petite, but the blooms aren’t. Nature Hills Nursery carries #1 containers of this perfect patio plant. PowWow White E. purpurea ‘PowWow White’ is a compact grower that never grows taller than 20 inches. The showy white flowers with orange centers make a nice architectural statement in mixed flower arrangements. ‘PowWow White’ To add this variety to your garden, make your way over to Nature Hills Nursery for a #1 container. Tweety If all of the plants above sound like they are still way too big to meet your needs, then check this out. E. x ‘Tweety’ is an absolutely diminutive miniature purpurea hybrid. It’s a compact plant that stays around six inches tall, but it can grow a few inches taller under ideal conditions. The flowers are sunny yellow with a brown center. Maintenance Coneflowers are pretty low-maintenance, even when you’re growing them in a pot. If you find the container is continually drying out despite your best efforts, put an inch of organic mulch on top of the soil. Replace it once a year. I use coffee bean chaff because a local roaster gives bags of the compost out to his customers. As it degrades into the soil, it adds nitrogen, and improves water retention and drainage. Straw, compost, or dry leaves work well, too. Keep the soil lightly moist, and let the top half of the soil dry out before adding more moisture. Stop watering when the plant is dormant, unless the soil becomes completely dry. Deadhead the flowers throughout the growing season, or leave them until the spring. How do you decide which is best? If you prefer your containers to have a neat and tidy appearance, you can clean up the plants by deadheading throughout the growing season, and you may even get a second (albeit smaller) round of blossoms this way. Otherwise, you can leave the seed heads in place as food for birds that visit your garden throughout the winter. Either way works equally well, it’s just a matter of preference. You can learn more about deadheading coneflowers in our guide. Coneflowers aren’t greedy when it comes to feeding, but since yours will be growing in a container, this means there are less nutrients available to them. You’ll need to be sure to fertilize twice each year, once in the early spring before blooming, and once in the summer while the plants are flowering. Use an all-purpose fertilizer that is safe for potted plants. I prefer Down to Earth because their products are natural, and they come in a biodegradable box. Their All Purpose Mix can be used for in-ground or container plants, and it is balanced for use on flowers. Down to Earth All Purpose Mix Don’t already have this gardening essential in your kit? Arbico Organics carries it in one-pound or five-pound boxes. You will also absolutely need to divide your plants every few years, or upgrade to a larger container. Or both. Echinacea is really good at spreading, and you need to keep it in check because most varieties will outgrow their containers easily. The purpurea species is the easiest to divide since it doesn’t have a long taproot, but you can divide other species as well. You can divide at any time of year, but ideally, do it in the spring before buds have formed, or in the fall after the blossoms are spent. To divide E. purpurea, remove it from the pot and knock away any loose soil. Then, cut down the center with a garden knife or a heavy-duty pair of scissors. Photo by Kristine Lofgren. If you have a species with a large taproot, you’ll need to be a bit more precise. Wash away all the soil from around the roots with a hose. Then, use a sharp knife or scissors to cut down the center of the taproot so that you have two basically equal halves with several growing eyes on each half. Whether your plant has fibrous roots or a taproot, replant the two halves in separate pots with fresh soil. Plants with taproots might be particularly shocked by the surgery and transition, but keep them watered and they’ll usually recover. Coneflowers are pretty tough, though any of them can be shocked while being repotted or divided, of course. If you have divided your plant, you can opt to simply replant it in the same container (or one of similar size) that you were using previously. Just be sure to fill it with fresh potting soil, since it can degrade, become compacted, and lose nutrients over time. However, if your divisions are still quite large, or if you opt to simply upgrade to a larger pot rather than dividing, you’ll need to figure out what size pot to use. Ideally, there will be a space of six inches extending from the plant to the edge of the pot on all sides. The roots should have at least six inches to extend down into the pot as well. Again, be sure to fill the container with new soil. Inevitably, as the coneflower seeds fall into the pot or surrounding area, a few of them will take hold and germinate. If you don’t want new plants growing, you can either pull the seedlings out and dispose of them, or carefully dig them up – roots and all – and transplant them to a more suitable spot. Coneflowers and Containers Make Marvelous Companions Coneflowers are such fabulous plants – relatively problem-free, beautiful, drought-tolerant, and versatile. No one should be without if they want some in their yard, or on their balcony, patio, or wherever they might add a welcome splash of floral splendor. Lucky for us, coneflowers are particularly suited to container growing. I’d love to hear which species or cultivar you end up with, and be sure to share if you come across a particularly good option for pots that wasn’t mentioned here. If you want to expand your coneflower garden or learn more about growing these flowering plants, we have some other guides that you might find useful: Photos by Kristine Lofgren © Ask the Experts, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. See our TOS for more details. Originally published July 17th, 2021. Last updated April 3rd, 2025. Product photos via Arbico Organics, Burpee, LE TAUCI Store, and Nature Hills Nursery. Uncredited photos: Shutterstock. !function(f,b,e,v,n,t,s) if(f.fbq)return;n=f.fbq=function()n.callMethod? n.callMethod.apply(n,arguments):n.queue.push(arguments); if(!f._fbq)f._fbq=n;n.push=n;n.loaded=!0;n.version='2.0'; n.queue=[];t=b.createElement(e);t.async=!0; t.src=v;s=b.getElementsByTagName(e)[0]; s.parentNode.insertBefore(t,s)(window, document,'script', ' fbq('init', '176410929431717'); fbq('track', 'PageView'); Source link

[tumibaba]

Coneflowers started out in the wild as humble prairie wildflowers, but these days, they’ve made the transition to must-have cultivated garden essentials. Some people grow these stunners for their ornamental value, while others make them a part of their medicinal herb garden. But what about those of us who lack the garden space for a big patch of echinacea? Or those who want to bring the beauty of the prairie to the patio? Not to worry – coneflowers grow well in containers! We link to vendors to help you find relevant products. If you buy from one of our links, we may earn a commission. In this guide, we’ll help you plant your coneflowers in pots so they can thrive. Coming up, here’s we’ll discuss: If you love coneflowers as much as I do, you’re probably excited to get started, so let’s dive in. The Ideal Container Coneflowers grow well in pots with one caveat: the pots must be the right size. These plants tend to have deep roots, particularly the less cultivated species. We’re talking over six feet deep for a three-foot-tall plant! This isn’t a plant that you can put in a shallow pot and expect to do well. However, not all coneflowers have such large root systems. The root structure is either made up of a long, fragile taproot with lateral roots and root hairs, or a fibrous root system. E. purpurea, the most common species, has a fibrous root system that grows much less deep than those with taproots. Photo by Kristine Lofgren. If you select one of the other species (E. pallida, E. angustifolia, or E. tennesseensis, for instance), make sure to select a deep container to hold that long taproot. You don’t need a pot that is six feet deep, but something in the neighborhood of 24 inches deep and a foot wide is a good minimum. E. purpurea can be grown in a more shallow container. Something 12  inches deep and wide is fine to start with. If you plan to create a mixed-plant container, make sure to choose something larger, as needed. Coneflowers grow well in groups with plants like bee balm, phlox, salvia, and anise hyssop. The material of the container is less important than the size. Because echinacea can handle heat, black or metal pots are fine, but they should be sturdy enough to stay upright when the coneflower is mature. A thin metal container can become surprisingly light when the soil has dried a bit. Combine that with a tall echinacea plant in full bloom, and you have the perfect conditions for your pot to tip right over. Terra cotta also works, but remember that these can crack or fall apart, especially in the winter. Concrete or stone pots are sturdier and don’t overheat as easily, but they can be heavy, and so they are hard to move. Fiberglass or wood are good alternatives because they don’t crack as easily and aren’t as heavy. Wood may rot, however, so it will require some maintenance to keep containers in good shape. Whichever you choose, make sure it has at least one good-sized drainage hole. An inch-wide hole or multiple quarter-inch holes for the aforementioned container sizes is ideal. Photo by Kristine Lofgren. If you’re worried about soil escaping out of the hole or holes, lay some mesh or newspaper over the openings before planting. You can purchase pre-cut mesh covers that are made to go over drainage holes. Flower Pot Hole Mesh Pad These round mesh hole covers by LE TAUCI come in packs of 50, which you can purchase at Amazon. Just be sure to hold them in place while you add the soil to ensure that they don’t shift around to the wrong spot. Choose Good Soil One thing that makes coneflowers particularly good for container growing is that they can handle drought. Containers tend to dry out more quickly than plants grown in the ground, which can spell disaster for a plant that needs constantly moist soil. Photo by Kristine Lofgren. Since coneflowers don’t need constant moisture, the risk of killing your plants by underwatering them isn’t high. Still, you want to pick a medium that retains water but is very well-draining. Coneflowers can’t survive in soggy, poorly-draining soil. An all-purpose potting soil is ideal, but unless it is specifically designed to retain water, amend it with some rice hulls to improve drainage and water retention. Rice hulls retain water while improving aeration. They’re also more sustainable than some alternatives like peat moss. They’ve been used for years by commercial growers, but these days, home growers can purchase them in smaller packages. Rice Hulls For instance, Arbico Organics carries quarter, half, or single cubic foot bags. Planting To plant, wait until the last expected frost date in your area. Remove the coneflower from its nursery pot, and gently loosen the roots and knock away any excess soil. Trim off any dead or damaged foliage. Place it in the container at the same level it was growing in the nursery pot. Fill in around it with potting soil and water well. Photo by Kristine Lofgren. When planting seeds, fill the pot with soil to about an inch from the top. Sow the seeds and then lightly cover with a quarter-inch of soil. Water well and keep moist. Within a few weeks, seedlings should emerge. You can also plant seeds in the fall, which has the added benefit of putting the seeds through cold stratification naturally. This generally results in better germination rates. The Right Location Coneflowers need full sun, though some varieties can handle partial shade. Put the container somewhere where it will receive enough light. Afternoon sunlight is ideal. You might also need to provide them with some protection from strong wind, since they can bend over and break when they’re standing there exposed in their container. You don’t need to do anything special for potted plants in the winter. Mulching or moving them indoors isn’t required, so long as you have picked a variety that is suited to your location. Speaking of which, when choosing a plant, add a USDA Hardiness Zone to the recommended range. For instance, if the plant info says it can survive down to Zone 3, assume that it won’t survive the winter below Zone 4 if it’s potted. Best Species and Cultivars Any type of coneflower can be grown in a pot, but some will stay confined to a more manageable size that makes them particularly container-appropriate. Butterfly Kisses E. purpurea ‘Butterfly Kisses’ stays under 18 inches tall with a compact growth habit. The double flowers have a bright pink center and a pale pink exterior. ‘Butterfly Kisses’ Grab a ‘Butterfly Kisses’ plant for your patio at Burpee. Chaquita For a truly teensy little coneflower, E. x ‘Chaquita’ is a purpurea hybrid with soft yellow petals and brown centers. Under a foot tall, it stays bushy and compact. Pixie Meadowbrite Echinacea ‘CBG Cone 2’ – better known as ‘Pixie Meadowbrite’ – is a dwarf E. purpurea cultivar that grows to about 20 inches tall, with one of the most compact growth habits I’ve ever seen. ‘Pixie Meadowbrite’ The flowers are lavender pink with orange centers. And don’t worry, the plant may stay petite, but the blooms aren’t. Nature Hills Nursery carries #1 containers of this perfect patio plant. PowWow White E. purpurea ‘PowWow White’ is a compact grower that never grows taller than 20 inches. The showy white flowers with orange centers make a nice architectural statement in mixed flower arrangements. ‘PowWow White’ To add this variety to your garden, make your way over to Nature Hills Nursery for a #1 container. Tweety If all of the plants above sound like they are still way too big to meet your needs, then check this out. E. x ‘Tweety’ is an absolutely diminutive miniature purpurea hybrid. It’s a compact plant that stays around six inches tall, but it can grow a few inches taller under ideal conditions. The flowers are sunny yellow with a brown center. Maintenance Coneflowers are pretty low-maintenance, even when you’re growing them in a pot. If you find the container is continually drying out despite your best efforts, put an inch of organic mulch on top of the soil. Replace it once a year. I use coffee bean chaff because a local roaster gives bags of the compost out to his customers. As it degrades into the soil, it adds nitrogen, and improves water retention and drainage. Straw, compost, or dry leaves work well, too. Keep the soil lightly moist, and let the top half of the soil dry out before adding more moisture. Stop watering when the plant is dormant, unless the soil becomes completely dry. Deadhead the flowers throughout the growing season, or leave them until the spring. How do you decide which is best? If you prefer your containers to have a neat and tidy appearance, you can clean up the plants by deadheading throughout the growing season, and you may even get a second (albeit smaller) round of blossoms this way. Otherwise, you can leave the seed heads in place as food for birds that visit your garden throughout the winter. Either way works equally well, it’s just a matter of preference. You can learn more about deadheading coneflowers in our guide. Coneflowers aren’t greedy when it comes to feeding, but since yours will be growing in a container, this means there are less nutrients available to them. You’ll need to be sure to fertilize twice each year, once in the early spring before blooming, and once in the summer while the plants are flowering. Use an all-purpose fertilizer that is safe for potted plants. I prefer Down to Earth because their products are natural, and they come in a biodegradable box. Their All Purpose Mix can be used for in-ground or container plants, and it is balanced for use on flowers. Down to Earth All Purpose Mix Don’t already have this gardening essential in your kit? Arbico Organics carries it in one-pound or five-pound boxes. You will also absolutely need to divide your plants every few years, or upgrade to a larger container. Or both. Echinacea is really good at spreading, and you need to keep it in check because most varieties will outgrow their containers easily. The purpurea species is the easiest to divide since it doesn’t have a long taproot, but you can divide other species as well. You can divide at any time of year, but ideally, do it in the spring before buds have formed, or in the fall after the blossoms are spent. To divide E. purpurea, remove it from the pot and knock away any loose soil. Then, cut down the center with a garden knife or a heavy-duty pair of scissors. Photo by Kristine Lofgren. If you have a species with a large taproot, you’ll need to be a bit more precise. Wash away all the soil from around the roots with a hose. Then, use a sharp knife or scissors to cut down the center of the taproot so that you have two basically equal halves with several growing eyes on each half. Whether your plant has fibrous roots or a taproot, replant the two halves in separate pots with fresh soil. Plants with taproots might be particularly shocked by the surgery and transition, but keep them watered and they’ll usually recover. Coneflowers are pretty tough, though any of them can be shocked while being repotted or divided, of course. If you have divided your plant, you can opt to simply replant it in the same container (or one of similar size) that you were using previously. Just be sure to fill it with fresh potting soil, since it can degrade, become compacted, and lose nutrients over time. However, if your divisions are still quite large, or if you opt to simply upgrade to a larger pot rather than dividing, you’ll need to figure out what size pot to use. Ideally, there will be a space of six inches extending from the plant to the edge of the pot on all sides. The roots should have at least six inches to extend down into the pot as well. Again, be sure to fill the container with new soil. Inevitably, as the coneflower seeds fall into the pot or surrounding area, a few of them will take hold and germinate. If you don’t want new plants growing, you can either pull the seedlings out and dispose of them, or carefully dig them up – roots and all – and transplant them to a more suitable spot. Coneflowers and Containers Make Marvelous Companions Coneflowers are such fabulous plants – relatively problem-free, beautiful, drought-tolerant, and versatile. No one should be without if they want some in their yard, or on their balcony, patio, or wherever they might add a welcome splash of floral splendor. Lucky for us, coneflowers are particularly suited to container growing. I’d love to hear which species or cultivar you end up with, and be sure to share if you come across a particularly good option for pots that wasn’t mentioned here. If you want to expand your coneflower garden or learn more about growing these flowering plants, we have some other guides that you might find useful: Photos by Kristine Lofgren © Ask the Experts, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. See our TOS for more details. Originally published July 17th, 2021. Last updated April 3rd, 2025. Product photos via Arbico Organics, Burpee, LE TAUCI Store, and Nature Hills Nursery. Uncredited photos: Shutterstock. !function(f,b,e,v,n,t,s) if(f.fbq)return;n=f.fbq=function()n.callMethod? n.callMethod.apply(n,arguments):n.queue.push(arguments); if(!f._fbq)f._fbq=n;n.push=n;n.loaded=!0;n.version='2.0'; n.queue=[];t=b.createElement(e);t.async=!0; t.src=v;s=b.getElementsByTagName(e)[0]; s.parentNode.insertBefore(t,s)(window, document,'script', ' fbq('init', '176410929431717'); fbq('track', 'PageView'); Source link

[romaleen]

Coneflowers started out in the wild as humble prairie wildflowers, but these days, they’ve made the transition to must-have cultivated garden essentials. Some people grow these stunners for their ornamental value, while others make them a part of their medicinal herb garden. But what about those of us who lack the garden space for a big patch of echinacea? Or those who want to bring the beauty of the prairie to the patio? Not to worry – coneflowers grow well in containers! We link to vendors to help you find relevant products. If you buy from one of our links, we may earn a commission. In this guide, we’ll help you plant your coneflowers in pots so they can thrive. Coming up, here’s we’ll discuss: If you love coneflowers as much as I do, you’re probably excited to get started, so let’s dive in. The Ideal Container Coneflowers grow well in pots with one caveat: the pots must be the right size. These plants tend to have deep roots, particularly the less cultivated species. We’re talking over six feet deep for a three-foot-tall plant! This isn’t a plant that you can put in a shallow pot and expect to do well. However, not all coneflowers have such large root systems. The root structure is either made up of a long, fragile taproot with lateral roots and root hairs, or a fibrous root system. E. purpurea, the most common species, has a fibrous root system that grows much less deep than those with taproots. Photo by Kristine Lofgren. If you select one of the other species (E. pallida, E. angustifolia, or E. tennesseensis, for instance), make sure to select a deep container to hold that long taproot. You don’t need a pot that is six feet deep, but something in the neighborhood of 24 inches deep and a foot wide is a good minimum. E. purpurea can be grown in a more shallow container. Something 12  inches deep and wide is fine to start with. If you plan to create a mixed-plant container, make sure to choose something larger, as needed. Coneflowers grow well in groups with plants like bee balm, phlox, salvia, and anise hyssop. The material of the container is less important than the size. Because echinacea can handle heat, black or metal pots are fine, but they should be sturdy enough to stay upright when the coneflower is mature. A thin metal container can become surprisingly light when the soil has dried a bit. Combine that with a tall echinacea plant in full bloom, and you have the perfect conditions for your pot to tip right over. Terra cotta also works, but remember that these can crack or fall apart, especially in the winter. Concrete or stone pots are sturdier and don’t overheat as easily, but they can be heavy, and so they are hard to move. Fiberglass or wood are good alternatives because they don’t crack as easily and aren’t as heavy. Wood may rot, however, so it will require some maintenance to keep containers in good shape. Whichever you choose, make sure it has at least one good-sized drainage hole. An inch-wide hole or multiple quarter-inch holes for the aforementioned container sizes is ideal. Photo by Kristine Lofgren. If you’re worried about soil escaping out of the hole or holes, lay some mesh or newspaper over the openings before planting. You can purchase pre-cut mesh covers that are made to go over drainage holes. Flower Pot Hole Mesh Pad These round mesh hole covers by LE TAUCI come in packs of 50, which you can purchase at Amazon. Just be sure to hold them in place while you add the soil to ensure that they don’t shift around to the wrong spot. Choose Good Soil One thing that makes coneflowers particularly good for container growing is that they can handle drought. Containers tend to dry out more quickly than plants grown in the ground, which can spell disaster for a plant that needs constantly moist soil. Photo by Kristine Lofgren. Since coneflowers don’t need constant moisture, the risk of killing your plants by underwatering them isn’t high. Still, you want to pick a medium that retains water but is very well-draining. Coneflowers can’t survive in soggy, poorly-draining soil. An all-purpose potting soil is ideal, but unless it is specifically designed to retain water, amend it with some rice hulls to improve drainage and water retention. Rice hulls retain water while improving aeration. They’re also more sustainable than some alternatives like peat moss. They’ve been used for years by commercial growers, but these days, home growers can purchase them in smaller packages. Rice Hulls For instance, Arbico Organics carries quarter, half, or single cubic foot bags. Planting To plant, wait until the last expected frost date in your area. Remove the coneflower from its nursery pot, and gently loosen the roots and knock away any excess soil. Trim off any dead or damaged foliage. Place it in the container at the same level it was growing in the nursery pot. Fill in around it with potting soil and water well. Photo by Kristine Lofgren. When planting seeds, fill the pot with soil to about an inch from the top. Sow the seeds and then lightly cover with a quarter-inch of soil. Water well and keep moist. Within a few weeks, seedlings should emerge. You can also plant seeds in the fall, which has the added benefit of putting the seeds through cold stratification naturally. This generally results in better germination rates. The Right Location Coneflowers need full sun, though some varieties can handle partial shade. Put the container somewhere where it will receive enough light. Afternoon sunlight is ideal. You might also need to provide them with some protection from strong wind, since they can bend over and break when they’re standing there exposed in their container. You don’t need to do anything special for potted plants in the winter. Mulching or moving them indoors isn’t required, so long as you have picked a variety that is suited to your location. Speaking of which, when choosing a plant, add a USDA Hardiness Zone to the recommended range. For instance, if the plant info says it can survive down to Zone 3, assume that it won’t survive the winter below Zone 4 if it’s potted. Best Species and Cultivars Any type of coneflower can be grown in a pot, but some will stay confined to a more manageable size that makes them particularly container-appropriate. Butterfly Kisses E. purpurea ‘Butterfly Kisses’ stays under 18 inches tall with a compact growth habit. The double flowers have a bright pink center and a pale pink exterior. ‘Butterfly Kisses’ Grab a ‘Butterfly Kisses’ plant for your patio at Burpee. Chaquita For a truly teensy little coneflower, E. x ‘Chaquita’ is a purpurea hybrid with soft yellow petals and brown centers. Under a foot tall, it stays bushy and compact. Pixie Meadowbrite Echinacea ‘CBG Cone 2’ – better known as ‘Pixie Meadowbrite’ – is a dwarf E. purpurea cultivar that grows to about 20 inches tall, with one of the most compact growth habits I’ve ever seen. ‘Pixie Meadowbrite’ The flowers are lavender pink with orange centers. And don’t worry, the plant may stay petite, but the blooms aren’t. Nature Hills Nursery carries #1 containers of this perfect patio plant. PowWow White E. purpurea ‘PowWow White’ is a compact grower that never grows taller than 20 inches. The showy white flowers with orange centers make a nice architectural statement in mixed flower arrangements. ‘PowWow White’ To add this variety to your garden, make your way over to Nature Hills Nursery for a #1 container. Tweety If all of the plants above sound like they are still way too big to meet your needs, then check this out. E. x ‘Tweety’ is an absolutely diminutive miniature purpurea hybrid. It’s a compact plant that stays around six inches tall, but it can grow a few inches taller under ideal conditions. The flowers are sunny yellow with a brown center. Maintenance Coneflowers are pretty low-maintenance, even when you’re growing them in a pot. If you find the container is continually drying out despite your best efforts, put an inch of organic mulch on top of the soil. Replace it once a year. I use coffee bean chaff because a local roaster gives bags of the compost out to his customers. As it degrades into the soil, it adds nitrogen, and improves water retention and drainage. Straw, compost, or dry leaves work well, too. Keep the soil lightly moist, and let the top half of the soil dry out before adding more moisture. Stop watering when the plant is dormant, unless the soil becomes completely dry. Deadhead the flowers throughout the growing season, or leave them until the spring. How do you decide which is best? If you prefer your containers to have a neat and tidy appearance, you can clean up the plants by deadheading throughout the growing season, and you may even get a second (albeit smaller) round of blossoms this way. Otherwise, you can leave the seed heads in place as food for birds that visit your garden throughout the winter. Either way works equally well, it’s just a matter of preference. You can learn more about deadheading coneflowers in our guide. Coneflowers aren’t greedy when it comes to feeding, but since yours will be growing in a container, this means there are less nutrients available to them. You’ll need to be sure to fertilize twice each year, once in the early spring before blooming, and once in the summer while the plants are flowering. Use an all-purpose fertilizer that is safe for potted plants. I prefer Down to Earth because their products are natural, and they come in a biodegradable box. Their All Purpose Mix can be used for in-ground or container plants, and it is balanced for use on flowers. Down to Earth All Purpose Mix Don’t already have this gardening essential in your kit? Arbico Organics carries it in one-pound or five-pound boxes. You will also absolutely need to divide your plants every few years, or upgrade to a larger container. Or both. Echinacea is really good at spreading, and you need to keep it in check because most varieties will outgrow their containers easily. The purpurea species is the easiest to divide since it doesn’t have a long taproot, but you can divide other species as well. You can divide at any time of year, but ideally, do it in the spring before buds have formed, or in the fall after the blossoms are spent. To divide E. purpurea, remove it from the pot and knock away any loose soil. Then, cut down the center with a garden knife or a heavy-duty pair of scissors. Photo by Kristine Lofgren. If you have a species with a large taproot, you’ll need to be a bit more precise. Wash away all the soil from around the roots with a hose. Then, use a sharp knife or scissors to cut down the center of the taproot so that you have two basically equal halves with several growing eyes on each half. Whether your plant has fibrous roots or a taproot, replant the two halves in separate pots with fresh soil. Plants with taproots might be particularly shocked by the surgery and transition, but keep them watered and they’ll usually recover. Coneflowers are pretty tough, though any of them can be shocked while being repotted or divided, of course. If you have divided your plant, you can opt to simply replant it in the same container (or one of similar size) that you were using previously. Just be sure to fill it with fresh potting soil, since it can degrade, become compacted, and lose nutrients over time. However, if your divisions are still quite large, or if you opt to simply upgrade to a larger pot rather than dividing, you’ll need to figure out what size pot to use. Ideally, there will be a space of six inches extending from the plant to the edge of the pot on all sides. The roots should have at least six inches to extend down into the pot as well. Again, be sure to fill the container with new soil. Inevitably, as the coneflower seeds fall into the pot or surrounding area, a few of them will take hold and germinate. If you don’t want new plants growing, you can either pull the seedlings out and dispose of them, or carefully dig them up – roots and all – and transplant them to a more suitable spot. Coneflowers and Containers Make Marvelous Companions Coneflowers are such fabulous plants – relatively problem-free, beautiful, drought-tolerant, and versatile. No one should be without if they want some in their yard, or on their balcony, patio, or wherever they might add a welcome splash of floral splendor. Lucky for us, coneflowers are particularly suited to container growing. I’d love to hear which species or cultivar you end up with, and be sure to share if you come across a particularly good option for pots that wasn’t mentioned here. If you want to expand your coneflower garden or learn more about growing these flowering plants, we have some other guides that you might find useful: Photos by Kristine Lofgren © Ask the Experts, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. See our TOS for more details. Originally published July 17th, 2021. Last updated April 3rd, 2025. Product photos via Arbico Organics, Burpee, LE TAUCI Store, and Nature Hills Nursery. Uncredited photos: Shutterstock. !function(f,b,e,v,n,t,s) if(f.fbq)return;n=f.fbq=function()n.callMethod? n.callMethod.apply(n,arguments):n.queue.push(arguments); if(!f._fbq)f._fbq=n;n.push=n;n.loaded=!0;n.version='2.0'; n.queue=[];t=b.createElement(e);t.async=!0; t.src=v;s=b.getElementsByTagName(e)[0]; s.parentNode.insertBefore(t,s)(window, document,'script', ' fbq('init', '176410929431717'); fbq('track', 'PageView'); Source link

[monaleen101]

Coneflowers started out in the wild as humble prairie wildflowers, but these days, they’ve made the transition to must-have cultivated garden essentials. Some people grow these stunners for their ornamental value, while others make them a part of their medicinal herb garden. But what about those of us who lack the garden space for a big patch of echinacea? Or those who want to bring the beauty of the prairie to the patio? Not to worry – coneflowers grow well in containers! We link to vendors to help you find relevant products. If you buy from one of our links, we may earn a commission. In this guide, we’ll help you plant your coneflowers in pots so they can thrive. Coming up, here’s we’ll discuss: If you love coneflowers as much as I do, you’re probably excited to get started, so let’s dive in. The Ideal Container Coneflowers grow well in pots with one caveat: the pots must be the right size. These plants tend to have deep roots, particularly the less cultivated species. We’re talking over six feet deep for a three-foot-tall plant! This isn’t a plant that you can put in a shallow pot and expect to do well. However, not all coneflowers have such large root systems. The root structure is either made up of a long, fragile taproot with lateral roots and root hairs, or a fibrous root system. E. purpurea, the most common species, has a fibrous root system that grows much less deep than those with taproots. Photo by Kristine Lofgren. If you select one of the other species (E. pallida, E. angustifolia, or E. tennesseensis, for instance), make sure to select a deep container to hold that long taproot. You don’t need a pot that is six feet deep, but something in the neighborhood of 24 inches deep and a foot wide is a good minimum. E. purpurea can be grown in a more shallow container. Something 12  inches deep and wide is fine to start with. If you plan to create a mixed-plant container, make sure to choose something larger, as needed. Coneflowers grow well in groups with plants like bee balm, phlox, salvia, and anise hyssop. The material of the container is less important than the size. Because echinacea can handle heat, black or metal pots are fine, but they should be sturdy enough to stay upright when the coneflower is mature. A thin metal container can become surprisingly light when the soil has dried a bit. Combine that with a tall echinacea plant in full bloom, and you have the perfect conditions for your pot to tip right over. Terra cotta also works, but remember that these can crack or fall apart, especially in the winter. Concrete or stone pots are sturdier and don’t overheat as easily, but they can be heavy, and so they are hard to move. Fiberglass or wood are good alternatives because they don’t crack as easily and aren’t as heavy. Wood may rot, however, so it will require some maintenance to keep containers in good shape. Whichever you choose, make sure it has at least one good-sized drainage hole. An inch-wide hole or multiple quarter-inch holes for the aforementioned container sizes is ideal. Photo by Kristine Lofgren. If you’re worried about soil escaping out of the hole or holes, lay some mesh or newspaper over the openings before planting. You can purchase pre-cut mesh covers that are made to go over drainage holes. Flower Pot Hole Mesh Pad These round mesh hole covers by LE TAUCI come in packs of 50, which you can purchase at Amazon. Just be sure to hold them in place while you add the soil to ensure that they don’t shift around to the wrong spot. Choose Good Soil One thing that makes coneflowers particularly good for container growing is that they can handle drought. Containers tend to dry out more quickly than plants grown in the ground, which can spell disaster for a plant that needs constantly moist soil. Photo by Kristine Lofgren. Since coneflowers don’t need constant moisture, the risk of killing your plants by underwatering them isn’t high. Still, you want to pick a medium that retains water but is very well-draining. Coneflowers can’t survive in soggy, poorly-draining soil. An all-purpose potting soil is ideal, but unless it is specifically designed to retain water, amend it with some rice hulls to improve drainage and water retention. Rice hulls retain water while improving aeration. They’re also more sustainable than some alternatives like peat moss. They’ve been used for years by commercial growers, but these days, home growers can purchase them in smaller packages. Rice Hulls For instance, Arbico Organics carries quarter, half, or single cubic foot bags. Planting To plant, wait until the last expected frost date in your area. Remove the coneflower from its nursery pot, and gently loosen the roots and knock away any excess soil. Trim off any dead or damaged foliage. Place it in the container at the same level it was growing in the nursery pot. Fill in around it with potting soil and water well. Photo by Kristine Lofgren. When planting seeds, fill the pot with soil to about an inch from the top. Sow the seeds and then lightly cover with a quarter-inch of soil. Water well and keep moist. Within a few weeks, seedlings should emerge. You can also plant seeds in the fall, which has the added benefit of putting the seeds through cold stratification naturally. This generally results in better germination rates. The Right Location Coneflowers need full sun, though some varieties can handle partial shade. Put the container somewhere where it will receive enough light. Afternoon sunlight is ideal. You might also need to provide them with some protection from strong wind, since they can bend over and break when they’re standing there exposed in their container. You don’t need to do anything special for potted plants in the winter. Mulching or moving them indoors isn’t required, so long as you have picked a variety that is suited to your location. Speaking of which, when choosing a plant, add a USDA Hardiness Zone to the recommended range. For instance, if the plant info says it can survive down to Zone 3, assume that it won’t survive the winter below Zone 4 if it’s potted. Best Species and Cultivars Any type of coneflower can be grown in a pot, but some will stay confined to a more manageable size that makes them particularly container-appropriate. Butterfly Kisses E. purpurea ‘Butterfly Kisses’ stays under 18 inches tall with a compact growth habit. The double flowers have a bright pink center and a pale pink exterior. ‘Butterfly Kisses’ Grab a ‘Butterfly Kisses’ plant for your patio at Burpee. Chaquita For a truly teensy little coneflower, E. x ‘Chaquita’ is a purpurea hybrid with soft yellow petals and brown centers. Under a foot tall, it stays bushy and compact. Pixie Meadowbrite Echinacea ‘CBG Cone 2’ – better known as ‘Pixie Meadowbrite’ – is a dwarf E. purpurea cultivar that grows to about 20 inches tall, with one of the most compact growth habits I’ve ever seen. ‘Pixie Meadowbrite’ The flowers are lavender pink with orange centers. And don’t worry, the plant may stay petite, but the blooms aren’t. Nature Hills Nursery carries #1 containers of this perfect patio plant. PowWow White E. purpurea ‘PowWow White’ is a compact grower that never grows taller than 20 inches. The showy white flowers with orange centers make a nice architectural statement in mixed flower arrangements. ‘PowWow White’ To add this variety to your garden, make your way over to Nature Hills Nursery for a #1 container. Tweety If all of the plants above sound like they are still way too big to meet your needs, then check this out. E. x ‘Tweety’ is an absolutely diminutive miniature purpurea hybrid. It’s a compact plant that stays around six inches tall, but it can grow a few inches taller under ideal conditions. The flowers are sunny yellow with a brown center. Maintenance Coneflowers are pretty low-maintenance, even when you’re growing them in a pot. If you find the container is continually drying out despite your best efforts, put an inch of organic mulch on top of the soil. Replace it once a year. I use coffee bean chaff because a local roaster gives bags of the compost out to his customers. As it degrades into the soil, it adds nitrogen, and improves water retention and drainage. Straw, compost, or dry leaves work well, too. Keep the soil lightly moist, and let the top half of the soil dry out before adding more moisture. Stop watering when the plant is dormant, unless the soil becomes completely dry. Deadhead the flowers throughout the growing season, or leave them until the spring. How do you decide which is best? If you prefer your containers to have a neat and tidy appearance, you can clean up the plants by deadheading throughout the growing season, and you may even get a second (albeit smaller) round of blossoms this way. Otherwise, you can leave the seed heads in place as food for birds that visit your garden throughout the winter. Either way works equally well, it’s just a matter of preference. You can learn more about deadheading coneflowers in our guide. Coneflowers aren’t greedy when it comes to feeding, but since yours will be growing in a container, this means there are less nutrients available to them. You’ll need to be sure to fertilize twice each year, once in the early spring before blooming, and once in the summer while the plants are flowering. Use an all-purpose fertilizer that is safe for potted plants. I prefer Down to Earth because their products are natural, and they come in a biodegradable box. Their All Purpose Mix can be used for in-ground or container plants, and it is balanced for use on flowers. Down to Earth All Purpose Mix Don’t already have this gardening essential in your kit? Arbico Organics carries it in one-pound or five-pound boxes. You will also absolutely need to divide your plants every few years, or upgrade to a larger container. Or both. Echinacea is really good at spreading, and you need to keep it in check because most varieties will outgrow their containers easily. The purpurea species is the easiest to divide since it doesn’t have a long taproot, but you can divide other species as well. You can divide at any time of year, but ideally, do it in the spring before buds have formed, or in the fall after the blossoms are spent. To divide E. purpurea, remove it from the pot and knock away any loose soil. Then, cut down the center with a garden knife or a heavy-duty pair of scissors. Photo by Kristine Lofgren. If you have a species with a large taproot, you’ll need to be a bit more precise. Wash away all the soil from around the roots with a hose. Then, use a sharp knife or scissors to cut down the center of the taproot so that you have two basically equal halves with several growing eyes on each half. Whether your plant has fibrous roots or a taproot, replant the two halves in separate pots with fresh soil. Plants with taproots might be particularly shocked by the surgery and transition, but keep them watered and they’ll usually recover. Coneflowers are pretty tough, though any of them can be shocked while being repotted or divided, of course. If you have divided your plant, you can opt to simply replant it in the same container (or one of similar size) that you were using previously. Just be sure to fill it with fresh potting soil, since it can degrade, become compacted, and lose nutrients over time. However, if your divisions are still quite large, or if you opt to simply upgrade to a larger pot rather than dividing, you’ll need to figure out what size pot to use. Ideally, there will be a space of six inches extending from the plant to the edge of the pot on all sides. The roots should have at least six inches to extend down into the pot as well. Again, be sure to fill the container with new soil. Inevitably, as the coneflower seeds fall into the pot or surrounding area, a few of them will take hold and germinate. If you don’t want new plants growing, you can either pull the seedlings out and dispose of them, or carefully dig them up – roots and all – and transplant them to a more suitable spot. Coneflowers and Containers Make Marvelous Companions Coneflowers are such fabulous plants – relatively problem-free, beautiful, drought-tolerant, and versatile. No one should be without if they want some in their yard, or on their balcony, patio, or wherever they might add a welcome splash of floral splendor. Lucky for us, coneflowers are particularly suited to container growing. I’d love to hear which species or cultivar you end up with, and be sure to share if you come across a particularly good option for pots that wasn’t mentioned here. If you want to expand your coneflower garden or learn more about growing these flowering plants, we have some other guides that you might find useful: Photos by Kristine Lofgren © Ask the Experts, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. See our TOS for more details. Originally published July 17th, 2021. Last updated April 3rd, 2025. Product photos via Arbico Organics, Burpee, LE TAUCI Store, and Nature Hills Nursery. 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