#Size : 12mm
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deathdetermineslife · 1 month ago
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your f/o would sooooo compliment you when you change your appearance. did you get a new piercing? they love it! change your hair style or color? they think you look amazing! are you trying out a new clothing style? they think it looks great on you!
and if you're ever worried that something won't suit you, they'll be the first person to hype you up and tell you you'll look soooo good.
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shreejisteelprivatelimited · 8 months ago
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Calculate Mild Steel Square Bar Weight: Quick & Easy Formula
Need to know the weight of your mild steel square bar? Our guide provides a simple formula and clear steps for accurate weight calculation.
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meaningtotellyou · 1 year ago
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stretching my ears up to 13mm 😛
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sajidhaji · 2 years ago
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chequerootlurks · 7 months ago
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I was blessed by boots and snoots today! It’s weevil time!
Region: Chicagoland
Environment: The tyke got indoors, so I’m really not sure what they prefer.
Size: apx 12mm
Weevils are -not!- my ID forté, so I’m going to tag the most wonderful blog of @onenicebugperday , which everyone should appreciate for both curation, and fantastic photos from around the world! Hopefully they might be able to ID this lovely gal.*
* I think it’s a female. Beetle sexing is also not my forté. A quick peek made me think female.
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firespirited · 22 days ago
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So I wasn't sure how to 'treat myself' this Xmas given that I currently don't have a wishlist that's more than "if the opportunity comes along this doll would be cool" (vs a real wishlist: "this doll would fit perfectly with the crew so let's save up and hunt for it")
And then someone listed a bunch of "Taeyang Pulliks" for 30€ each!
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I managed to snag Stica!!! + Henri's body and mech for Étoile Undomiel who's been waiting at least a year if not two.
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💜💙💚💛��💖 I'm smitten 💖🧡💛💚💙💜
They've been packed away for Xmas. I'm looking forward to turning Stica into a strawberry blonde with brown or hazel chips (12mm size - I may have to paint them myself) and switching bodies for Étoile (tricky as there's 5mm space for the neck).
Here's to very fortunate misspellings!
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dozydawn · 1 month ago
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“These are a darker bronze peacock color, with lots of cobalt, purple, and green overtones. Very baroque, larger size, 10-12mm diameter, these are value priced due to some rough areas, but really very nice for this price! Some are a bit wilder shapes than others (see 2nd picture).”
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crochet-the-night-away · 6 months ago
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Juan Carlos Bodoque (31 Minutos) Crochet Pattern
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Materials
Red, White, Black and Orange Yarn (I used a Medium sized yarn) Appropriately sized Crochet Hook (I used a 3.5mm hook) Safety Eyes (I used 12mm) Stitch Markers Tapestry Needle Fiberfill Scissors
Techniques
Magic Ring (mr) Chain (ch) Single Crochet (sc) Increase (inc) Decrease (dec)
Eye whites (x2)
----- Starting with WHITE Round 1: 6 sc into a magic ring [6] Round 2: 6inc [12] ----- Leave a long tail for sewing
Head
----- Starting with RED Round 1: 4sc into a magic ring [4] Round 2: 4inc [8] Round 3: (sc, inc) * 4 [12] Round 4: (sc, inc, sc) * 4 [16] Round 5: (3sc, inc) * 4 [20] Round 6: (2sc, inc, 2sc) * 4 [24] Round 7: (5sc, inc) * 4 [28] Round 8: (3sc, inc, 3sc) * 4 [32] Round 9: (7sc, inc) * 4 [36] Round 10: (4sc, inc, 4sc) * 4 [40] Round 11: (9sc,inc) * 4 [44] Round 12: (5sc, inc, 5sc) * 4 [48] Round 13 -17: 48sc [48] ----- Attach safety eyes and the eye whites between rows 9-14 with 6 stitches in between ----- Sew eye whites Round 18: (3sc, dec, 3sc) * 6 [42] Round 19 (5sc, dec) * 6 [36] ----- Stuff Round 20: (2sc,dec, 2sc) * 6 [30] Round 21: (3sc, dec) *6 [24] Round 22: (sc, dec, sc) * 6 [18] Round 23: (sc, dec) * 6 [12] ----- Stuff Round 24: 6dec [6] ----- Fasten off
Nose
----- Starting with ORANGE 4ch skip one ch from hook and sl st in next ch hdc in next ch dc in next ch ----- Leave a long tail for sewing. ----- Sew between rows 2-5
Ears (x2)
----- Starting with RED 6ch [6] 4sc, 3sc in 5th chain, 3sc, inc, sl st into first stitch (this will be your new end stitch) [12] (3sc, inc) * 2 (the last stitch will be your new end [14] Round 1-19: 14sc [14] ----- Leave a long tail for sewing ----- Sew between rows 16-17 without any stitches in between
Body
----- Starting with RED Round 1: 6sc into a magic ring [6] Round 2: 6inc [12] Round 3: (sc, inc) * 6 [18] Round 4: (sc, inc, sc) * 6 [24] Round 5: (3sc, inc) * 6 [30] Round 6: (2sc, inc, 2sc) * 6 [36] Round 7: (5sc, inc) * 6 [42] Round 8: BLO 42sc [42] Round 9-11: 42 sc [42] ----- Alternating BLACK and WHITE colors every 2 rows Round 12-29: 42sc [42] ----- Add 5sc (This will reset the natural shift of the initial stitches) ----- Stuff Round 30-32: 42sc [42] Round 33: (5sc, dec) * 6 [36] Round 34-35: 36sc [36] Round 36: (2sc,dec, 2sc) * 6 [30] Round 37-38: 30sc [30] ----- Stuff Round 39: (3sc, dec) *6 [24] Round 40-41: 24sc [24] ----- Change back to RED Round 42-43: 24sc [24] ----- Stuff ----- Leave a long tail for sewing ----- Sew the neck to the head between rows 7-15 of the head
Arms (x2)
PS. For the arms, I added wire to the inside for better posing, but it's not needed. -----Starting with RED Round 1: 6sc into a magic ring [6] Round 2: 6inc [12] Round 3: (sc, inc) * 6 [18] ----- Stuff unless you're planning to add wire. Round 4-8: 18sc [18] ----- Stuff unless you're planning to add wire. Round 9: (sc, dec) * 6 [12] ----- Alternating BLACK and WHITE colors every 2 rows Round 6-26: 12sc [12] ----- Stuff. If you're adding wire, insert the wire and then stuff around it. Round 27: 6dec [6] ----- Leave a long tail for sewing ----- Sew the arm to the second BLACK stripe from top to bottom on the body
Legs (x2)
----- Starting with RED 6ch [6] 4sc, 3sc in 5th chain, 3sc, inc, sl st into first stitch (this will be your new end stitch) [12] (3sc, inc) * 6 (the last stitch will be your new end [18] Round 1: BLO 18sc [18] Round 2: 18sc [18] ----- For the next three rounds, I checked which were the stitches in the front and made the decreases there. It was not necessarily the first few stitches. Round 3: 3dec, 12sc [15] Round 4: 2dec, 11sc [13]Round 5: dec, 10sc [12] Round 6-24: 12sc [12] ----- Stuff ----- Leave a long tail for sewing ----- Sew the leg to the bottom-front red part of the body
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porblegames · 5 months ago
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I'm very impressed with your work! Your color choices, highlight locations, and technique are all top-notch.
I mostly paint 28mm scale (for Mantic's Kings of War, Firefight, and Deadzone). However, I'll be painting some 12mm armies for their upcoming sci-fi game, Epic Warpath, and I'd like to know if you have any advice for painting at a smaller scale (especially vehicles).
i always like to plug my layering article, where i do paint some small scale minis in the second half: https://www.goonhammer.com/hobby-101-layering/ generally, small scale isn't terribly different from 28mm. the surfaces are smaller, which makes them more forgiving and therefore good scales for learning new techniques. i don't use washes, but small scale minis take washes pretty well, just dont slop it on! you DO need a good brush if you want to do any detailing. i use a da vinci maestro series 35 size 0. it has nice long bristles and that gives you more room to work with while keeping the paint out of the ferrule.
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taperwolf · 15 days ago
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Posting about finding that braille labeler reminds me that I've long meant to talk about the underlying technology of the embossing labeler. I have something of a collection of them, and I just took a bit to take some pictures and label samples.
Fundamentally these all work the same way — a disc has a number of "petals" around its edge, each with a raised character. A strip of vinyl tape, with a sticky backing covered by a protective plastic film, rides through a slot in the labeler and passes either through or alongside the wheel. You spin the disc to select a character, and squeeze the handle, forcing the raised die to press through the tape. The tape both takes the shape of the die and turns white as it gets thinner, leaving you a raised, contrasting character embossed in the tape. Letting go of the squeeze handle generally advances the tape to the space for the next character.
Until the advent of small printing label makers, these were practically the only game in town for labeling tools, household items, and the controls on homebrew electronics.
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This is a recent example of the style that's been predominant since at least the 1980s. It's sized solely for ⅜" tape (or 9mm) and is very straightforward to use: turn the wheel to select your character, and squeeze the grip. "Cut" is its own character, represented by scissors.
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And this one is a shrunken version of the same; I'm uncertain of the manufacturer, but I think I got it amongst scrapbooking supplies back when that was big.
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These two are together because they share one feature: the same kind of interchangeable die wheels; between the two models I have two identical "American 150" wheels and a third "Vertical" wheel. The Sears model (left) also takes the long- discontinued ¼" (6mm) tapes, and can print either in "wide" or "condensed" mode; it stores a roll of tape inside, where the Dymo model on the right lets the tape roll's caddy clip onto the back, and can only print in "wide". They both have separate cutting mechanisms: the Sears's is the extra white squeeze handle on the underside, while the Dymo uses the raised white button on top.
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The Dymo 1570 also has changeable wheels, but I don't have any spares that fit it; both it and the Reizen RL-350 Braille Labeler take both ⅜" (9mm) and ½" (12mm) tape. Unfortunately the only ½" tape I have is the clear type that came with the Reizen, so it's less legible to the sighted than it could be. The cutter on this Dymo works the same as on the Sears model, while the Reizen has a cutting space on the wheel.
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horizon-series-details · 6 months ago
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During the second half of “The Twilight Path” Sidequest, Aloy is tasked with retrieving a Pristine Stormbird Heart from this particular machine, which has since crashed into a tower. What really sets this machine apart from the others is the fact it appears painted in some locations, perhaps as a way to mark it as salvage(?) To my knowledge, this is also the only time in the game where a Pristine Stormbird Heart can actually be collected.
Stormbirds are large, heavyweight machines designed for combat. They are one of two heavyweight combat class flying machines, with the second being the Dreadwing. The main parts I focused on in this set (aside from the whole machine in the first image) are the area near where the “throat” would be in the second image, and the underside of the talons in the third.
The second image features the “throat” of the machine specifically because the silver parts that are visible in a way reminded me of the vertebrae seen in a bird skeleton. It raises the question of if machines have something closer to a metal skeleton similar to the animal they’re based off of, or if that’s a coincidence.
The third image, while I’ve done a post detailing bird machine talons, was just too good of a chance to pass up. While everything is rusted, it still provides a great view of how the talons are connected (their joints allow them to curve their talons in combat!)
This set was actually kind of hard to fit everything into frame because of the sheer size of the machine, as well as the angle, so I actually had to make use of having my focal length at 12mm and my view roll at -17.
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sajidhaji · 2 years ago
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swifty-fox · 9 months ago
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I wanna try sizing up but I can’t find my 12mm plugs sobsssa
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rozapphira · 1 year ago
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Spooky Eye Tutorial! They could be put on pumpkins, too!
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discountalien-pancake · 11 months ago
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How to sew “French” seams (in french they’re known as English seams, so…) by hand!
It’s actually really straightforward, at least to me. You sew each seam twice, which is extremely annoying, but other than that it’s not actually difficult.
Some basic guidelines you’ll want to keep in mind:
french seams are best for light-medium weight fabrics. With heavy fabrics you’re better off binding the seam allowances with thin ribbon.
not great for dramatic curves but soft curves can be managed with a narrow allowance.
you will be doing a lot of running stitches. Having a beading needle can be helpful for this because you’ll be able to take more stitches in one pass.
narrower final seams look prettier but are more fragile. fabrics prone to fraying (dupioni, charmeuse, linen, loose wovens, etc) need a wider seam allowance than fabrics that resist fraying (crepe de chine, cotton voile, knits). I recommend 10mm seam allowance for fabrics that don’t fray too much, and 12mm for ones that fray more (trust me, the 2mm makes a difference).
you can french seam knits! By hand! Keep in mind that you will want to use a blunt needle, like a small size tapestry needle, and you must use a backstitch for any seams that need to stretch parallel to the seam.
If you are seaming something that needs to be hemmed, i recommend doing the hemming first, before sewing panels together. If facing or binding the hem, you can do that before or after.
Start by laying your pieces right sides out, wrong sides together. Pin (or baste) along the seam line. For french seams, it does really help to cut pieces out with exact seam allowance so that you can simply align the cut edges.
Stitch parallel to the edge and seam line, a couple millimeters shy of dead center, closer to the edge than the final seam line. It may help to trace the secondary sewing line onto the fabric. Use a running stitch for this unless seaming knits or other stretch fabrics along a seam that needs to stretch in the direction of the seam. If the direction of stretch is primarily perpendicular to the seam, go ahead and use a running stitch. This line of stitching will almost never be subjected to strain, so a finely spaced running stitch is all you need. You can also use lower quality thread for this if you don’t have a lot of the nice stuff.
Press the seam allowance to one side, then the other. Really pull the layers away from each other to get the crease as close to the stitching as possible. Hold the two panels wrong sides out, right sides together, with the raw edges trapped between.
Starting from the hemmed edge, if there is one, anchor your thread in the seam allowance and whipstitch the hemmed edges together at the seam line.
Stitch along the marked seam line, which should fall outside of the raw edge. If you didn’t offset the first line of stitching enough, you may find this difficult and end up having raw edges poking through. You can use a fine running stitch for seams that won’t take strain, and a backstitch for seams that need more strength. You should use stronger, nicer thread for this as well. I like running stitch for this especially because that means i can use one length of thread for the entire length of the seam. Backstitch uses approximately triple the length of the seam + a tail, which becomes extremely unwieldy with long skirt seams, for example.
I end the line of seam stitching with a few backstitches.
Press the seam allowance to one side and marvel at how tidy they look. If the garment is mirrored, make sure the seam on the other side is ironed the other way.
Pictures below bc tumblr isn’t letting me rearrange them on mobile for some reason:
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Last pic is showing a backstitched final seam. I only did that for the two side seams on the bodice because those are most likely to experience strain. All the skirt seams (6!!!) were running stitched.
In my experience, a french seam is one of the most comfortable seams to have against the skin. Ideal for shirts, fancy chemises, lingerie, etc.
I hope this explanation helped a bit! Truly the only thing you need to pay attention to is starting right sides out.
Go forth, make pretty slips and chemises!
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bisexualbaker · 1 year ago
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Anyone available to test a crochet pattern real quick?
Here's roughly what the pattern makes:
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(ID in alt text)
The above image isn't quite accurate, since I altered the pattern from this (primarily US double crochet) to something simpler (primarily US single crochet), but I don't have photos of the new product yet, and these are honestly quite close.
For this pattern, you need to know:
US Single crochet/UK double crochet
Popcorn stitch (I have a tutorial I can link)
US Double crochet/UK treble crochet (only for the popcorn stitch)
Increasing and decreasing
Slip stitch (just to close/finish the work)
Gauge is 4 sc/dc per inch/2.5cm, worsted weight yarn. I estimate that you need about 20 yards/meters of your preferred colors, plus scraps for stripes and/or mouths; probably good to use up any odds and ends, particularly in cat colors. Safety eye size is 12mm, if you have them, or you can just use whatever.
I'd love to get this pattern tested in the next day or two, because I want to offer it as incentive/thanks for Gaza relief donations, which means I want to have it ready to go ASAP.
Please send me an ask or a message if you're interested, and thanks in advance! I'll reblog this post with an update as soon as I have a tester or two.
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