#Size : 12mm

[shreejisteelprivatelimited]

Calculate Mild Steel Square Bar Weight: Quick & Easy Formula

Need to know the weight of your mild steel square bar? Our guide provides a simple formula and clear steps for accurate weight calculation.

[meaningtotellyou]

stretching my ears up to 13mm 😛

[sajidhaji]

[chequerootlurks]

I was blessed by boots and snoots today! It’s weevil time!

Region: Chicagoland

Environment: The tyke got indoors, so I’m really not sure what they prefer.

Size: apx 12mm

Weevils are -not!- my ID forté, so I’m going to tag the most wonderful blog of @onenicebugperday , which everyone should appreciate for both curation, and fantastic photos from around the world! Hopefully they might be able to ID this lovely gal.*

* I think it’s a female. Beetle sexing is also not my forté. A quick peek made me think female.

[puuuders]

I'm getting questions about my cosplay stuff. So here is a list of all the stuff I ordered for it. All of it is ordered off Amazon except the eye contact.

Omega

Mask - Trick Or Treat Studios Ghost BC Latex Nameless Ghoul Mask https://a.co/d/0uVjDlR

Rings - RLMOON 18K Gold or Silver Plated Wide Band Rings 12MM Thumb Ring for Women Men Thick Simple Plain Band Ring High Polished Comfort Fit Size 6-11 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BYC3BRW9/?coliid=IUCGKV20R4L3F&colid=2ZZONJLT1096E&psc=1&ref_=cm_sw_r_apann_lstpd_DF1SGKDQ2TPMEQSD87VV&language=en_US

Uniform - TAIGUJI Nameless Ghoul Cosplay Costume Black Coat Props Halloween Outfit vampire cos https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CNT4R55V/?coliid=I40K4F5ZR0WJO&colid=2ZZONJLT1096E&psc=1&ref_=cm_sw_r_apann_lstpd_DF1SGKDQ2TPMEQSD87VV_1&language=en_US

Balaclava - VULKIT 2 Pack Neck Gaiter Face Mask Scarf Reusable Bandanas Tube UV Protection Balaclava Outdoor Sport for Men and Women https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08HVPBQJT/?coliid=I2M3ACZXYCHD2B&colid=2ZZONJLT1096E&psc=1&ref_=cm_sw_r_apann_lstpd_DF1SGKDQ2TPMEQSD87VV_2&language=en_US

----

Terzo

Uniform - TAIGUJI Papa Emeritus Inspired cosplay Costume Band Cross Brooch Costume Halloween black tuxedo vampire cos https://a.co/d/3VZ2jGx

Face paint - BOBISUKA Blank in the Dark Black + White Oil Face Body Paint Set, Large Capacity Professional Paint Palette Kit with Brushes for Art Theater Halloween Party Cosplay Clown Sfx Makeup for Adults https://a.co/d/iLPfFkV

Eye contacts -

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Hope this helps!

[crochet-the-night-away]

Juan Carlos Bodoque (31 Minutos) Crochet Pattern

Materials

Red, White, Black and Orange Yarn (I used a Medium sized yarn) Appropriately sized Crochet Hook (I used a 3.5mm hook) Safety Eyes (I used 12mm) Stitch Markers Tapestry Needle Fiberfill Scissors

Techniques

Magic Ring (mr) Chain (ch) Single Crochet (sc) Increase (inc) Decrease (dec)

Eye whites (x2)

----- Starting with WHITE Round 1: 6 sc into a magic ring [6] Round 2: 6inc [12] ----- Leave a long tail for sewing

Head

----- Starting with RED Round 1: 4sc into a magic ring [4] Round 2: 4inc [8] Round 3: (sc, inc) * 4 [12] Round 4: (sc, inc, sc) * 4 [16] Round 5: (3sc, inc) * 4 [20] Round 6: (2sc, inc, 2sc) * 4 [24] Round 7: (5sc, inc) * 4 [28] Round 8: (3sc, inc, 3sc) * 4 [32] Round 9: (7sc, inc) * 4 [36] Round 10: (4sc, inc, 4sc) * 4 [40] Round 11: (9sc,inc) * 4 [44] Round 12: (5sc, inc, 5sc) * 4 [48] Round 13 -17: 48sc [48] ----- Attach safety eyes and the eye whites between rows 9-14 with 6 stitches in between ----- Sew eye whites Round 18: (3sc, dec, 3sc) * 6 [42] Round 19 (5sc, dec) * 6 [36] ----- Stuff Round 20: (2sc,dec, 2sc) * 6 [30] Round 21: (3sc, dec) *6 [24] Round 22: (sc, dec, sc) * 6 [18] Round 23: (sc, dec) * 6 [12] ----- Stuff Round 24: 6dec [6] ----- Fasten off

Nose

----- Starting with ORANGE 4ch skip one ch from hook and sl st in next ch hdc in next ch dc in next ch ----- Leave a long tail for sewing. ----- Sew between rows 2-5

Ears (x2)

----- Starting with RED 6ch [6] 4sc, 3sc in 5th chain, 3sc, inc, sl st into first stitch (this will be your new end stitch) [12] (3sc, inc) * 2 (the last stitch will be your new end [14] Round 1-19: 14sc [14] ----- Leave a long tail for sewing ----- Sew between rows 16-17 without any stitches in between

Body

----- Starting with RED Round 1: 6sc into a magic ring [6] Round 2: 6inc [12] Round 3: (sc, inc) * 6 [18] Round 4: (sc, inc, sc) * 6 [24] Round 5: (3sc, inc) * 6 [30] Round 6: (2sc, inc, 2sc) * 6 [36] Round 7: (5sc, inc) * 6 [42] Round 8: BLO 42sc [42] Round 9-11: 42 sc [42] ----- Alternating BLACK and WHITE colors every 2 rows Round 12-29: 42sc [42] ----- Add 5sc (This will reset the natural shift of the initial stitches) ----- Stuff Round 30-32: 42sc [42] Round 33: (5sc, dec) * 6 [36] Round 34-35: 36sc [36] Round 36: (2sc,dec, 2sc) * 6 [30] Round 37-38: 30sc [30] ----- Stuff Round 39: (3sc, dec) *6 [24] Round 40-41: 24sc [24] ----- Change back to RED Round 42-43: 24sc [24] ----- Stuff ----- Leave a long tail for sewing ----- Sew the neck to the head between rows 7-15 of the head

Arms (x2)

PS. For the arms, I added wire to the inside for better posing, but it's not needed. -----Starting with RED Round 1: 6sc into a magic ring [6] Round 2: 6inc [12] Round 3: (sc, inc) * 6 [18] ----- Stuff unless you're planning to add wire. Round 4-8: 18sc [18] ----- Stuff unless you're planning to add wire. Round 9: (sc, dec) * 6 [12] ----- Alternating BLACK and WHITE colors every 2 rows Round 6-26: 12sc [12] ----- Stuff. If you're adding wire, insert the wire and then stuff around it. Round 27: 6dec [6] ----- Leave a long tail for sewing ----- Sew the arm to the second BLACK stripe from top to bottom on the body

Legs (x2)

----- Starting with RED 6ch [6] 4sc, 3sc in 5th chain, 3sc, inc, sl st into first stitch (this will be your new end stitch) [12] (3sc, inc) * 6 (the last stitch will be your new end [18] Round 1: BLO 18sc [18] Round 2: 18sc [18] ----- For the next three rounds, I checked which were the stitches in the front and made the decreases there. It was not necessarily the first few stitches. Round 3: 3dec, 12sc [15] Round 4: 2dec, 11sc [13]Round 5: dec, 10sc [12] Round 6-24: 12sc [12] ----- Stuff ----- Leave a long tail for sewing ----- Sew the leg to the bottom-front red part of the body

[porblegames]

I'm very impressed with your work! Your color choices, highlight locations, and technique are all top-notch.

I mostly paint 28mm scale (for Mantic's Kings of War, Firefight, and Deadzone). However, I'll be painting some 12mm armies for their upcoming sci-fi game, Epic Warpath, and I'd like to know if you have any advice for painting at a smaller scale (especially vehicles).

i always like to plug my layering article, where i do paint some small scale minis in the second half: https://www.goonhammer.com/hobby-101-layering/ generally, small scale isn't terribly different from 28mm. the surfaces are smaller, which makes them more forgiving and therefore good scales for learning new techniques. i don't use washes, but small scale minis take washes pretty well, just dont slop it on! you DO need a good brush if you want to do any detailing. i use a da vinci maestro series 35 size 0. it has nice long bristles and that gives you more room to work with while keeping the paint out of the ferrule.

[no-title-currently]

During the second half of “The Twilight Path” Sidequest, Aloy is tasked with retrieving a Pristine Stormbird Heart from this particular machine, which has since crashed into a tower. What really sets this machine apart from the others is the fact it appears painted in some locations, perhaps as a way to mark it as salvage(?) To my knowledge, this is also the only time in the game where a Pristine Stormbird Heart can actually be collected.

Stormbirds are large, heavyweight machines designed for combat. They are one of two heavyweight combat class flying machines, with the second being the Dreadwing. The main parts I focused on in this set (aside from the whole machine in the first image) are the area near where the “throat” would be in the second image, and the underside of the talons in the third.

The second image features the “throat” of the machine specifically because the silver parts that are visible in a way reminded me of the vertebrae seen in a bird skeleton. It raises the question of if machines have something closer to a metal skeleton similar to the animal they’re based off of, or if that’s a coincidence.

The third image, while I’ve done a post detailing bird machine talons, was just too good of a chance to pass up. While everything is rusted, it still provides a great view of how the talons are connected (their joints allow them to curve their talons in combat!)

This set was actually kind of hard to fit everything into frame because of the sheer size of the machine, as well as the angle, so I actually had to make use of having my focal length at 12mm and my view roll at -17.

[swifty-fox]

I wanna try sizing up but I can’t find my 12mm plugs sobsssa

[sajidhaji]

[rozapphira]

Spooky Eye Tutorial! They could be put on pumpkins, too!

[discountalien-pancake]

How to sew “French” seams (in french they’re known as English seams, so…) by hand!

It’s actually really straightforward, at least to me. You sew each seam twice, which is extremely annoying, but other than that it’s not actually difficult.

Some basic guidelines you’ll want to keep in mind:

french seams are best for light-medium weight fabrics. With heavy fabrics you’re better off binding the seam allowances with thin ribbon.

not great for dramatic curves but soft curves can be managed with a narrow allowance.

you will be doing a lot of running stitches. Having a beading needle can be helpful for this because you’ll be able to take more stitches in one pass.

narrower final seams look prettier but are more fragile. fabrics prone to fraying (dupioni, charmeuse, linen, loose wovens, etc) need a wider seam allowance than fabrics that resist fraying (crepe de chine, cotton voile, knits). I recommend 10mm seam allowance for fabrics that don’t fray too much, and 12mm for ones that fray more (trust me, the 2mm makes a difference).

you can french seam knits! By hand! Keep in mind that you will want to use a blunt needle, like a small size tapestry needle, and you must use a backstitch for any seams that need to stretch parallel to the seam.

If you are seaming something that needs to be hemmed, i recommend doing the hemming first, before sewing panels together. If facing or binding the hem, you can do that before or after.

Start by laying your pieces right sides out, wrong sides together. Pin (or baste) along the seam line. For french seams, it does really help to cut pieces out with exact seam allowance so that you can simply align the cut edges.

Stitch parallel to the edge and seam line, a couple millimeters shy of dead center, closer to the edge than the final seam line. It may help to trace the secondary sewing line onto the fabric. Use a running stitch for this unless seaming knits or other stretch fabrics along a seam that needs to stretch in the direction of the seam. If the direction of stretch is primarily perpendicular to the seam, go ahead and use a running stitch. This line of stitching will almost never be subjected to strain, so a finely spaced running stitch is all you need. You can also use lower quality thread for this if you don’t have a lot of the nice stuff.

Press the seam allowance to one side, then the other. Really pull the layers away from each other to get the crease as close to the stitching as possible. Hold the two panels wrong sides out, right sides together, with the raw edges trapped between.

Starting from the hemmed edge, if there is one, anchor your thread in the seam allowance and whipstitch the hemmed edges together at the seam line.

Stitch along the marked seam line, which should fall outside of the raw edge. If you didn’t offset the first line of stitching enough, you may find this difficult and end up having raw edges poking through. You can use a fine running stitch for seams that won’t take strain, and a backstitch for seams that need more strength. You should use stronger, nicer thread for this as well. I like running stitch for this especially because that means i can use one length of thread for the entire length of the seam. Backstitch uses approximately triple the length of the seam + a tail, which becomes extremely unwieldy with long skirt seams, for example.

I end the line of seam stitching with a few backstitches.

Press the seam allowance to one side and marvel at how tidy they look. If the garment is mirrored, make sure the seam on the other side is ironed the other way.

Pictures below bc tumblr isn’t letting me rearrange them on mobile for some reason:

Last pic is showing a backstitched final seam. I only did that for the two side seams on the bodice because those are most likely to experience strain. All the skirt seams (6!!!) were running stitched.

In my experience, a french seam is one of the most comfortable seams to have against the skin. Ideal for shirts, fancy chemises, lingerie, etc.

I hope this explanation helped a bit! Truly the only thing you need to pay attention to is starting right sides out.

Go forth, make pretty slips and chemises!

[bisexualbaker]

Anyone available to test a crochet pattern real quick?

Here's roughly what the pattern makes:

(ID in alt text)

The above image isn't quite accurate, since I altered the pattern from this (primarily US double crochet) to something simpler (primarily US single crochet), but I don't have photos of the new product yet, and these are honestly quite close.

For this pattern, you need to know:

US Single crochet/UK double crochet

Popcorn stitch (I have a tutorial I can link)

US Double crochet/UK treble crochet (only for the popcorn stitch)

Increasing and decreasing

Slip stitch (just to close/finish the work)

Gauge is 4 sc/dc per inch/2.5cm, worsted weight yarn. I estimate that you need about 20 yards/meters of your preferred colors, plus scraps for stripes and/or mouths; probably good to use up any odds and ends, particularly in cat colors. Safety eye size is 12mm, if you have them, or you can just use whatever.

I'd love to get this pattern tested in the next day or two, because I want to offer it as incentive/thanks for Gaza relief donations, which means I want to have it ready to go ASAP.

Please send me an ask or a message if you're interested, and thanks in advance! I'll reblog this post with an update as soon as I have a tester or two.

[tinydragondice]

Y’allllll I’ve been wanting some additional master dice for a while and finally ordered some special ones from Arcana Cast!

Introducing my new 40mm chonk master, and 12mm mini dice set masters!

These are raw and I’ll be carefully sanding and polishing them until they have a glass-like finish before I make the first molds from them.

So once these are done, I’ll have the ability to make d20s in 12mm, 20mm, 22mm, 30mm, and 40mm sizes. As a dice hoarder and constant dicemaker, I find that immensely satisfying.

Updates to come once they’re polished and ready to cast!

[live-from-flaturn]

Do YOU want to rock the strappy tank top Jeff Satur keeps wearing for shows and interviews? You know, this bitch...

Do you want it in YOUR size and for LESS THAN $30? If the answer to either of those questions was “Yes”, then yee-haw do I have some good news for you!

By purchasing some plain white tank tops in your size and some 12mm replacement bra straps from the retailer of your choice (Amazon linked here), you can assemble your own Jeff Satur Cyberpunk Tank Top in roughly 45 minutes. 

It will take some measuring/pinning and hand-stitching, but it’ll look essentially the same when you’re finished and it’ll probably be made of higher quality materials than the AliExpress version selling for $50 on sale.

[kosomolski-dolls]

Got some new eyes. Please forgive the bad lighting 😅it's late here

Some new eyes for some of my girls

Conan characters finally getting eyes in the correct colour and size. I'm a bit sad because Rei's colour got discontinued and I would've needed another pair for the romantic head.

Plus, if Luts ever releases a hdf Diez, baby Rei will have a different eye colour 🥲 sad

Lastly, sadly, the eyes I got for my trio are too small 😔 I feared so, but hoped it wouldn't be as obvious. It's kinda sad because the colours are exactly what i wished for. Especially Taka'aki, but also Yui. Such vibrant colour 😭 I'd need their 10mm eyes with the iris size of 12mm extra small, cause the 12mm sadly don't fit into the eye hole.

Ooh well. I have other eyes on order by another maker, which i think will fit better, but I just prefer Yovanka's colours =")