#Olivier Cresp

[odoroussavourssweet]

Kenzo Amour

Noses: Daphne Bugey and Olivier Cresp

notes: rice, white tea; frangipani, cherry blossom, heliotrope; vanilla, incense, musk, thanaka wood

Kenzo Amour is a straightforward gooey rice pudding fragrance, powerful and sweet.

Ironically, given the “Asian-inspired” marketing campaign, it’s maybe the ultimate in lactonic (milky) scents that put dairy front and center.

Despite my well-known distaste for sweet gourmands, I find Amour surprisingly lovable; the milkiness is comforting, and the powdery heliotropin makes it stop short a half notch from the over-rich dessert zone and remind you it’s a perfume.

If you’re looking for a canonical, real-deal sweet milky vanilla comfort scent, this is the one.

[angelitam]

Devotion Eau de Parfum Intense de Dolce&Gabbana

Nouvelle intensité pour Devotion de Dolce&Gabbana. Devotion Eau de Parfum Intense de Dolce&Gabbana Dolce&Gabbana présente Devotion Eau de Parfum Intense, une fragrance aux notes gourmandes lumineuses. Devotion Eau de Parfum Intense de Dolce&Gabbana Devotion de Dolce&Gabbana célèbre le dévouement indéfectible de la marque au design et à l’artisanat italiens. Devotion Eau de Parfum Intense de…

[persolaise]

Serge Lutens Point Du Jour, Penhaligon's The Dandy, Akro Smile and other reviews - 2024

And we're back! -- Reviews of new releases from Serge Lutens, Penhaligon's and Akro, as well as thoughts on some vintage finds from Chanel and Montana.

Given that Love At First Scent has been off the air for several weeks, it was perhaps appropriate that the first post-summer review was of a scent inspired by daybreak: the brand new Serge Lutens Point Du Jour, composed, as ever, by Christopher Sheldrake. A decidedly more nocturnal affair followed in the form of Penhaligon’s The Dandy (Fabrice Pellegrin), bridged by the mid-afternoon contentment…

[coralperfumes1]

Gentleman Eau de Toilette Intense by Givenchy, created by Nathalie Lorson and Olivier Cresp, is a 2021 Woody Aromatic fragrance for men. Top: Cardamom, Basil, Bergamot. Middle: Iris, Cypress. Base: Coumarin, Cedar.

[cleolinda]

So I tried Black Opium Extreme again

A relatively simple installment this week: remember how I tried this one and got nothing but jasmine? Well, I remembered two things:

I tried this on my wrist, not the back of my hand.

I tried it only a couple days after the sample arrived in the mail, rather than letting it settle for a couple of weeks.

I cannot tell you why either of these things make a difference. All I can tell you is that I wore Black Opium Extreme again, and suddenly it was an intense mocha (more a chocolate supported by coffee than the other way around, on me) with an undertone of licorice. In fact, through the lifespan of the perfume, the white floral blend (jasmine and orange blossom) was the least noticeable. I mean, it was there, but you could smell it as part of all the other notes, not standing unto itself. And if you look up there in the original post, jasmine was all I got. Even after the coffee-chocolate-licorice fades, it's not really the jasmine that comes out; it's more of the pear-heavy gourmand I remember from getting vaguely sprayed with the original Black Opium at an Ulta.

And I have also been able to (re)try the original. Let's compare the notes for a moment:

Black Opium (2014): Pear, pink pepper, orange blossom, coffee, jasmine, bitter almond, licorice, vanilla, patchouli, cashmere wood (Cashmeran), cedar.

Black Opium Extreme (2021): Black coffee, cacao, mandarin orange, lemon, pear, jasmine (grandiflorum? sambac?), orange blossom, bourbon vanilla, patchouli.

(For the record: the creators are Nathalie Lorson, Marie Salamagne, Olivier Cresp and Honorine Blanc.)

The newer variant is advertised as being very heavy on the "dark" gourmand notes, especially the coffee, and when I finally got Extreme to cooperate, that's what I got. Licorice isn't listed, but I feel like that's a big ol' lie, because I smell it more clearly here than in the original. Who knows? Not me.

As for the original, we gotta put an asterisk by this, because what I have is a very old Sephora sample (but less than ten years old). I think it aged really nicely, but I can't tell you for sure if the balance of the fragrance has changed—have the basenotes gotten stronger, has something else faded, what have you.

The original opens with the fruity pear-citrus blast that nearly choked me out while shopping; gradually the gourmand notes come out as a sort of pear cupcake foundation. I mostly read the (remember: aged) sample as a vanilla cupcake rather than a coffee or chocolate one, with those notes and the patchouli (which has probably aged very smoothly) subconsciously giving the base more weight. It doesn't come off like a mocha latte; it smells very Vanilla, and very Cake, and eventually, that's the scent left behind once the fruits have gone home. The white floral is still wound up in there, but again, you wouldn't really think of this as "floral" or "blooming," as opposed to the way that the Samsara EdT smelled oddly fresh and airy for a heavily sandalwood fragrance. So: A fresh batch of Black Opium might smell very different, but with this sample, that's what I get. The Extreme version is meant to bring the coffee and chocolate out and put it on top, so that checks out.

What any of this has to do with opium, or even Opium (1977), I do not know.

The thing that intrigues me is that I keep seeing jasmine/licorice combinations in perfume; I've been having a little trouble distinguishing licorice-anise notes, so I've been researching that. By researching, I mean "eating actual licorice candy even though I don't like it." The short version is that licorice, anise, star anise, fennel, and even magnolia blossoms all have a very characteristic smell/taste (granted, I have never eaten a magnolia blossom), and that common denominator is the compound anethole. That's what I'm looking into.

Jasmine sambac (aka night-blooming jasmine, mogra, sampaguita, melati putih, "Arabian jasmine") doesn't seem to have any anethole, but I'm convinced that it blends particularly well with licorice (etc.). As it turns out, I have a sample of Nemat's "Mogra," just because I like jasmine, and will you look at that: mogra is jasmine sambac. It's exactly what's in Black Opium(s). I don't care what anyone says, that's what it is. And jasmine sambac apparently has a scent that, if not containing anethole, is damn compatible with it; either I haven't learned to distinguish licorice very well yet, or they just blend together that well.

And I noticed that the jasmine/licorice combination is in two other fragrance samples I have: the original, eponymous Lolita Lempicka (1997), and the (for some reason completely different) eau de parfum concentration of HYPNOTIC POISON. So I'll be reporting back on those soon.

Perfume discussion masterpost

[fruitchouli]

what i worn last week luv xx

Balenciaga Paris L’Essence (2011)

perfumer: Olivier Polge

Valentino Valentina Rosa Assoluto (2014)

perfumers: Hamid Merati-Kashani, Olivier Cresp

Van Cleef & Arpels California Reverie (2014)

perfumer: Antoine Maisondieu

4160 Tuesdays Dirty Honey (2015)

perfumer: Sarah McCartney

Paris Hilton Fairy Dust (2008)

perfumer: Cécile Hua

Diptyque L’Ombre dans L’Eau (1983)

perfumer: Serge Kalouguine

Estée Lauder Beyond Paradise (2003)

perfumer: Calice Becker

[theshoegirldiaries]

LOTD: Gucci Rouge A Levres Satin in 119 Matilda Sunrise with Dior Addict Lip Maximizer in 014 Shimmer Macadamia. #Scentoftheday From The Garden EDT by Replica, Maison Margiela.

First impressions, day 5; The last time I did my first impressions reviews, I mentioned I'd bought several of the newer Gucci lipstick shades. They brought out a 'Neutrals' collection (I shared some mattes that time) and 119 Matilda Sunrise in the Satin formula is from that range. It's a nice rosy nude, not light, bordering on MLBB. The satin finish isn't super shiny and I was expecting something a bit lighter (feeling) or more sheer. This, whilst not heavy or mega creamy, doesn't have as much slip to it as I was imagining. I would say it feels lighter though than the Carolina Herrera satin yesterday and didn't have as much colour pay-off as that in one swipe.

I decided to whip out all my satin Gucci's to swatch at once. 121 Elena Sand and 221 Mina Light Pink are also from the Neutrals collection (there were 6 satins in that), whilst 115 Bertha Blossom, 219 Mary Mauve and 220 Suzanne Sunset launched for summer last year alongside 208 They Met In Argentina (which I only have in the matte finish). The others were permanent shades. Swatches are shown in numerical order and as always are on bare skin, several swipes with no light/colour edits made.

I feel like my perfume trials haven't been going so well and I'd heard bad things about the newest Replica scent. I'd heard it smelt like tomatoes, so after my very leafy tomato scent the previous day, I figured I might as well just get this one over and done with.

From The Garden by Maison Martin Margiela is a Chypre fragrance which launched in 2023, created by Olivier Cresp and Sebastien Cresp. It contains top notes of Tomato Leaf and Green Mandarin with Geranium in the middle and a base of Patchouli.

Firstly I'm happy to report it's nowhere near as tomato-like as Amazonian Rose by Carolina Herrera yesterday, despite having it as a note. There is a garden smell (not flowers though), mixed with a more pleasant perfume scent. For an EDT it lasted well (Replica are generally poor when it comes to performance), but it's not a strong scent, certainly nowhere near as strong as yesterday. There's no projection, but I was also using a dab-on bottle, rather than a spray which should be noted.

I don't hate it, I'm willing and a little curious to try it again and maybe mix it with something else. Replica scents I think can be quite polarizing because they are based around a whole experience and memory of a time and place, rather than trying to be a 'pretty perfume'. They're often photo-realistic, whether that's of bubble bath, a flower market or standing under lemon trees. Therefore From The Garden will smell like the whole garden, veg, grass and stems included, not just something pretty from that garden like a rose. I commend them for always trying to do something different, but that's not to say I'm a fan of all their scents.

[fancyemmabovary]

“Inspired by toffee apple and including notes of lemon, gardenia and cedarwood, this delicious citrus-floral has enchanted women around the globe and become a modern icon”. (Olivier Cresp, master perfumer)

[hesperidesfragrance]

Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue Intense is another one of my favourites for the summer. When I smell this, I imagine being in a boat on the French Riviera, wearing white linens, with a cool breeze caught in the sails.

Launched in 2017, the nose behind this scent is Olivier Cresp.

This fragrance has an added depth compared to the original Light Blue, released in 2001. It is longer lasting, and the granny apple top note helps give this classic scent a refreshing new feel.

The middle and base notes of jasmine, marigold, musk, and amber help transform this bright citrus into a more muted, floral, clean scent that blends effortlessly with your skin over time.

And we already know how I feel about frosted glass bottles.

x

~~~~~~~~~~

La madrague by Brigitte Bardot

[scentoftoday]

Mon Paris by Yves Saint Laurent

Mon Paris by Yves Saint Laurent is a Chypre Fruity fragrance for women. Mon Paris was launched in 2016. Mon Paris was created by Olivier Cresp, Harry Fremont and Dora Baghriche. Top notes are Strawberry, Raspberry, Pear, Orange, Tangerine, Calabrian bergamot and Calone; middle notes are Peony, Jasmine Sambac, Chinese Jasmine, Datura and Orange Blossom; base notes are Indonesian Patchouli Leaf, Patchouli, White Musk, Vanila, Ambroxan, Moss and Cedar.

[perfumeshopsbd]

Versace Eau Fraiche blends notes of bergamot, cardamom, lemon, carambola and Brazilian rosewood into a fresh, aquatic scent ideal for a day at the beach house or an evening sail along the coast. This well-balanced fragrance was designed by master perfumer Olivier Cresp for Versace and was released in 2006. Spray on this eau de toilette in the morning for a boost of confidence and a crisp, clean vibe that lasts all day long. In the words of Donatella Versace, "Versace Man is synonymous with elegance and seduction. It is dedicated to the modern man, full of charisma and self-confidence." A surprisingly fresh fragrance with bubbly notes and an amber and musk base for a mysterious, and skin-deep sensation. Top: White lemon, rose wood, carambola Heart: Tarragon, cedar leaves, clary sage Base: Musk, amber, sycamore wood Olfactory family: Aromatic, tonic, woody An olfactive harmony with unusual notes to give life to a surprisingly fresh fragrance. Carambola immediately contrasts with the traditional White Lemon and the noble Rose Wood. The distinctive character of Cedar Leaves rises up, highlighting the vibrant notes of Tarragon and the manliness of Clary Sage. An irresistible trail of Sycamore Wood, enveloping Amber and sparkling Musk offer mysterious and skin-deep sensations.

[angelitam]

L'Eau Kenzo, nouveau design

L’audace signée Kenzo avec son nouveau design, L’Eau Kenzo. L’Eau Kenzo, nouveau design L’Eau Kenzo puise son inspiration dans une nature généreuse, et capture en chemin ses parfums de fleurs, de fruits, de fraîcheur et de bonheur. Les Parfums Kenzo saisissent cette eau gorgée de couleurs pour une rencontre boisée avec la peau. L’Eau Kenzo, nouveau design L’Eau Kenzo pour Homme est une Eau de…

[persolaise]

Akro Infuse, Rendez-Vous, Parfum D'Empire showcase and other reviews - 2024

An intriguing cup of tea from Akro, gender-bending from Rendez-Vous and several evocative gems from Parfum D'Empire

An unusual cup of tea was on offer in a recent episode of Love At First Scent, in the form of the new Akro Infuse (Olivier Cresp). In the same broadcast, I talked about the intriguing Rendez-Vous, composed by Antoine Lie, after which I presented a showcase review of a brand that doesn’t get anywhere near the attention it deserves from me, Parfum D’Empire, all of whose wares are created by its…

[parfummm]

Ange ou Demon by Givenchy: Unveiling the Enigmatic Fragrance

Perfume has a remarkable ability to evoke emotions, memories, and even alter perceptions. Among the myriad of scents available, "Ange ou Demon" by Givenchy stands out as an olfactory masterpiece that captures the essence of duality—blending light and darkness, innocence and seduction, in a single bottle.

The Concept Behind Ange ou Demon

Ange ou Demon, meaning "Angel or Demon" in English, was introduced by Givenchy in 2006. It was crafted by perfumers Jean-Pierre Bethouart and Olivier Cresp, aiming to embody the contrasting facets of a woman's personality. This fragrance invites wearers to explore their complex selves—a blend of purity and allure, softness and strength.

The Fragrance Profile

Ange ou Demon opens with a captivating blend of mandarin, saffron, and thyme, creating a spicy and citrusy introduction that intrigues the senses. As the scent evolves, it reveals a heart of lily, orchid, and ylang-ylang, adding a floral elegance that is both delicate and intoxicating. The base notes of oakwood, tonka bean, and vanilla provide a warm, sensual foundation, leaving a lingering trail of sophistication and mystery.

The Angelic Side

The "Ange" aspect of the fragrance embodies purity and grace. It is represented by the fresh citrus notes and the floral heart, evoking an ethereal and angelic aura. This facet of Ange ou Demon speaks to the wearer's softer, more tender qualities—gentle, compassionate, and serene.

The Demonic Side

Contrasting with the angelic purity is the "Demon" side of the fragrance, which manifests through the deeper, more sensual notes in the base. The warmth of oakwood, the sweetness of tonka bean, and the richness of vanilla create an alluring and seductive allure. This aspect of Ange ou Demon celebrates the wearer's inner strength, confidence, and allure—a hint of rebellion beneath the surface.

The Bottle Design

Givenchy's attention to detail extends beyond the fragrance itself to its presentation. The bottle of Ange ou Demon is a work of art in itself, designed to reflect the fragrance's dual nature. The sleek, angular lines and the interplay of light and shadow on the glass evoke the concept of duality—mirroring the angelic and demonic elements within.

The Target Audience

Ange ou Demon is designed for the modern woman who is multifaceted and embraces her complexity. She is confident yet mysterious, tender yet alluring. This fragrance is ideal for those who appreciate a scent that evolves on the skin, revealing different facets throughout the day and evening.

The Wearability

One of the remarkable qualities of Ange ou Demon is its versatility. It can be worn during the day, exuding freshness and elegance, and seamlessly transition into the evening, where its deeper, more sensual notes come to life. Whether for a daytime meeting or a romantic night out, Ange ou Demon adapts to the occasion with grace and allure.

The Legacy

Since its launch, Ange ou Demon has garnered a devoted following among fragrance enthusiasts and Givenchy aficionados alike. Its ability to capture the essence of duality in a sophisticated and wearable scent has ensured its enduring popularity. Many women find that wearing Ange ou Demon is not just about scent, but about embodying a complex and intriguing persona—a blend of lightness and intensity, innocence and seduction.

Conclusion

In conclusion, "Ange ou Demon" by Givenchy is more than just a fragrance; it is an olfactory exploration of the complexities within every woman. With its harmonious blend of contrasting elements—angelic purity and seductive allure—Ange ou Demon invites wearers to embrace their multifaceted nature. Whether you resonate more with the angelic or the demonic aspects of the fragrance, Ange ou Demon celebrates the beauty of duality and the allure of mystery. It continues to captivate and inspire, proving that in perfume, as in life, it is the balance of opposites that creates true harmony and sophistication.

[perfumestars]

Amidst the dynamic tapestry of modern perfumery, AKRO Smile emerges as a groundbreaking scent that reimagines how we perceive delight and elation through fragrance. This standout creation from AKRO merges familial legacy with innovative craftsmanship. The perfume, a collaborative creation by legendary perfumer Olivier Cresp and his daughter Anaïs Cresp, encapsulates more than just scent; it is a testament to shared memories and joyous moments, distilled into a chic and modern bottle. As the latest addition to AKRO's prestigious lineup, Smile beautifully melds personal narrative with olfactory artistry, making each spritz a celebration of shared happiness and creative passion.

[cleolinda]

Black Opium Extreme (Yves Saint Laurent, 2021)

A relatively quick review today, although I may do a What Is [This Note]? follow-up later:

I cannot in good conscience review the original Black Opium. The only time I tried it, I was in an Ulta getting sprayed by an enthusiastic sales associate (we actually bonded over our shared perfume fixation), and I was already covered in HYPNOTIC POISON and Angel. The one thing about Black Opium that came through was a shrill pear note that drowned out everything else, which is really saying something.

So, when I read that the Black Opium Extreme flanker (not to be confused with Intense, Neon, Illicit Green, Nuit Blanche, Floral Shock, or... Baby Cat? ) really focused on the gourmand notes, I thought, let me give this a try. I don't even like coffee, but surely, anything will be better than the Screaming Pear.

Extreme, per the YSL site: "A shot of adrenaline from extra black coffee is paired with luminous ultra-white flowers, set against a base of sweet, earthy patchouli and heady vanilla. This exhilarating amalgamation of ingredients makes for an intense and long-lasting women’s scent; crafted by Nathalie Lorson, Marie Salamagne, Olivier Cresp and Honorine Blanc."

Now, according to Fragrantica, the original Black Opium has pear, pink pepper, orange blossom, coffee, jasmine, bitter almond, licorice, vanilla, patchouli, cashmeran, and cedar (obviously, I need to order a sample and retry this in earnest).

The newer Extreme variant only has coffee and cacao (specifically, as the top notes you would smell first), jasmine sambac, orange blossom, bourbon vanilla, and patchouli. It's much simpler, it's less woodsy, it's unpeared. I don't even like coffee, but I bet it smells really good with the vanilla and cacao; I'm so hype to try it.

It smells like jasmine.

That's all.

Remember how I told you that jasmine loves me? That I amp tuberose—a similar white floral—like a motherfucker? Yeah. This is 10,000% not a criticism of the perfume itself; I'm saying that my skin chemistry ate all the other notes and breathed out J A S M I N E like a flower-hoarding dragon. The orange blossom might be twined in there, but I can't actually tell it apart at this point. I was so disappointed. I wore Extreme three times; I begged it for some coffee and chocolate notes, I pleaded. After more than two hours of wear, I managed to get it to cough up a mere base of vaguely mocha vanilla (it was very nice) underneath the white floral. I have not yet been able to get anything to come out more clearly than that.

I actually did enjoy wearing it because I do like jasmine, don't get me wrong. But this perfume has six (6) notes in it, and I can only get, like, two and a half to come out. I bet it would be great layered with a coffee or chocolate fragrance; several indie companies offer single notes like that (maybe I can put on a mocha fragrance and just think about jasmine real hard). Black Opium Extreme has been, more than anything, an object lesson in the vagaries of skin chemistry for us. If white florals tend to come out really strongly for you, be warned—or, hell, this might be exactly what you want.