#perfume

[homofocused]

Getting into perfume makes you question your sanity. You think you won't become like the people on Fragrantica who have favorite scents for hiking and that you just like to smell nice, but then one day you will think, "Hmm, what perfume should I wear to bed?" And that's when you know you've gone insane. "Which one would be best for the farmer's market?" I've lost my mind.

[fragranticareviewers]

[miamaimania]

"Canarina's Gaze" by René Lalique, 1928.

[binibby]

i love when i can smell my perfume on myself like damn girl you smell delicious

[literaryvein-reblogs]

Writing Reference: Fragrance Notes

CITRUS NOTES

In their natural state, are quite volatile and prone to oxidation.

Notes of lemon, bergamot, orange, and mandarin are used in perfumery to impart sharp, sour, and very refreshing top notes to a fragrance.

MINTY NOTES

Follow on from citrus notes as refreshing and clean-smelling top notes used extensively in functional perfumery like household cleaning products.

In addition, notes of peppermint, menthol, and eucalyptus give a cooling effect to many masculine fine fragrances and shower gels.

FRUITY NOTES

With the exception of Osmanthus and blackcurrant bud absolute, the majority of fruity notes used in perfumery are created with synthetic materials.

Gamma undecalactone (C14) - used for a peachy/apricot effect, along with other materials such as Raspberry Ketone, Benzaldehyde (for cherry), and Allyl amyl glycolate (for a sour pineapple note).

The large aromachemical manufacturers produce ready-made compounds, which makes adding fruity notes to a fragrance composition less of a challenge.

Dewfruit, which is a specialty base from the Swiss fragrance manufacturer Givaudan, gives a raspberry and lychee note and is used in a variety of commercial fine fragrances.

GREEN NOTES

Add freshness and naturalness to fragrances, from floral to fruity and chypre.

Cis-3-hexenol - a very powerful material that is reminiscent of freshly cut grass.

Galbanum - a natural material, likened to uncooked green beans.

Should be used sparingly because they can seem harsh if used in large quantities.

HERBAL NOTES

Lavender, rosemary, and clary sage are used in both masculine fragrances and functional products for their cooling and natural effect.

Herbs add naturalness to a fragrance and are usually the steam distillate of the aerial parts of the plant.

Lavender - a key component of the fougére family, with each variety and extraction giving a slightly different effect.

Lavender absolute is said to have a bright green color and warm, hay-like aroma.

ALDEHYDIC NOTES

Aldehydes - a group of materials that are most famous for their use at overdosed levels in Chanel No. 5.

Have a powerful aroma and are perceived as waxy, fatty, soapy, and clean.

On their own, they would be considered too harsh and chemical-ly, but in combination with floral notes of rose, jasmine, and ylang ylang, they impart sparkle and radiance.

C8 Octanol, C10 Decanal, C11 Undecylenic, C12 MNA, and C12 Lauric feature in this group, as do Hydroxycitronellal, Citral, Citronellal, and Benzaldehyde.

FLORAL NOTES

Floral notes make up the heart of most fragrance types.

There are many different types of floral, each with their own characteristics:

Rose Notes. These can include everything from rose absolute and rose otto to geranium and even guaiacwood which, although smoky and woody, has definite rosy undertones. Phenethyl alcohol is used as a blender in fragrances to give a rose note, and the Firmenich base Dorinia is used where a large amount of natural rose would be too costly or restricted. Apart from cost, one of the main issues with using natural rose absolute in a commercial fragrance is that it typically contains 1-1.5% Methyl eugenol, a naturally occurring component that is restricted in the EU and other parts of the world. The maximum amount of rose allowed in a leave-on skincare product is around 0.025%. Low Methyl-eugenol rose is available, but cost and minimal-order quantities are high, meaning it is out of the reach of many fragrance producers. Laboratoire Monique Rémy produce a molecular distillation of rose for this very reason, which enables large quantities to be used in the fragrance Portrait of a Lady (Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle).

Jasmine Notes. As well as jasmine absolute and jasmine sambac, synthetic bases are created with Benzyl acetate and other jasmine-like chemicals such as Hedione, which is used in a huge range of fragrances to impart radiance and diffusion. Unfortunately, although used for centuries, jasmine has been severely restricted in commercial fragrances, due to sensitization, and it is only allowed currently in the EU at a maximum of 0.7% in a finished fragrance for on-skin usage.

Muguet Notes. The name of the lily-of-the-valley notes. There is no natural muguet extract, so all fragrances of this type will contain some synthetic materials. The muguet ingredient, Hydroxycitronellal, which was relied upon for many years, is now restricted to a maximum 5%, due to its potentially sensitizing effect. Other muguet-type replacements are Lyral, Lilial, and Dupical, which are used in combination with other materials.

Violet and Iris Notes. Natural violet absolute is from the leaf, and smells very green, wet, and mulchy. The sweet, powdery violet notes actually come from a group of materials called the ionones—Alpha, Beta, and Methyl ionones—which add a sweet, cosmetic violet note to rosy florals, as well as being a great link to woody notes in the base of a fragrance. Other notes that belong in this category are the orris notes, which are either natural and excruciatingly expensive (orris concrete), or come from a synthetic such Orivone.

Narcotic Floral Notes. Naturals such as ylang ylang, tuberose, and orange blossom are in this category due to their heavy, sweet, almost narcotic effect in a fragrance. With the exception of perhaps ylang ylang, which is available in a variety of grades, these materials offer a low yield and so are quite costly. In commercial fragrances, synthetic materials such as Aurantiol and Methyl anthranilate are used instead. White florals contain traces of the chemical indole, which can be added to a fragrance in trace amounts for effect. Alone, indole has an odor of decay and can be extremely unpleasant, as is the case with many animalic notes.

ANIMALIC NOTES

Indole brings us nicely on to the other animalic and musk notes used in fragrance.

Included here are the leather notes, as there is a fair amount of crossover.

The animalic notes are generally quite strong and often fecal.

The following are main animalic notes used:

Civet. This is the main material used and is extracted from the anal gland of the civet cat. Strange and unpleasant as it may seem, civet, when used in trace amounts, is said to give a sweet, exotic, and sexy edge to a fragrance and is reminiscent of the indoles present in white flowers.

Castoreum. Comes from the glands of the beaver or a synthetic reproduction, which is slightly less alarming. It can have quite urine-like notes, which at low levels give a honey aroma. It is used in chypre and leather fragrances, along with woods, mosses, and labdanum or birch tar and Isobutyl quinoline (leather notes).

Ambergris. Comes from the sperm whale; the most gentle of the animalic notes. Often found washed up on beaches, mainly in New Zealand. It has an aromatic, almost marine-like note that can be soft, musty, and musky. The synthetic versions are most often used. It works well with sandalwood for a soft skin-like accord.

Natural musk. Use of this is now completely outlawed due to the near-extinction of the musk deer from which it was historically collected. The musk notes we experience today are all synthetic and, in fact, are perceived as much cleaner than you would expect considering their origin. This is due to their extensive use in laundry detergent fragrances, hence the term “laundry musk.” Nitro musks such as Galaxolide by IFF are used due to their substantive and long-lasting effects through a wash at high temperatures. They are not very soluble in water, which means that they will stay on the fabric through the wash cycle. Of course, this means that many are not biodegradeable or very environmentally friendly. Musk notes are used in most fragrances for their fixative properties and for the soft, comforting effect they give to a fragrance. Many people, including perfumers, are anosmic to different musks and so they are often used in combination with each other.

BALSAMIC AND VANILLA NOTES

Balsamic refers to the sweet, warm, and resinous notes of Peru balsam, benzoin, and oppoponax, which also have slightly vanilla and caramel undertones.

Vanilla absolute does not smell anything like the vanilla notes used in food or commercial bath products, which are more “ice-cream-like” and foodie.

These are usually created with Ethyl vanillin and vanillin, rather than the more costly vanilla absolute, which is actually less sweet and more woody. Vanilla absolute is difficult to work with in products due to its insolubility in alcohol.

It can also cause extreme discoloration in some products, turning lotions and soaps a dark brown to black.

HAY NOTES

Another sweet, powdery note is coumarin, which is a key component of the fougére family and works well with both vanilla and lavender.

Coumarin - a white, crystalline powder that occurs naturally in tonka beans.

It is created synthetically for perfumery use, but tonka absolute has a similar smell, which is that of powdery, newly mown hay.

WOODY NOTES

A key part of oriental fragrances, the woody notes can be soft and creamy, such as sandalwood, or cool and earthy, such as patchouli and vetiver.

Although patchouli is a distillation of the leaves rather than a wood, it does have some woody aspects.

Vetiver - rooty and has rich caramel undertones, and an earthy woodiness.

Cedarwood Virginian has a sharp, dry, pencil-shavings aroma.

Iso E Super is a lovely, transparent, woody ingredient to add to a fragrance as a blender and is even used alone as a fragrance in its own right.

MOSSY AND MARINE NOTES

Have a slightly yeasty, fungal, and pungent aroma.

Mossy notes - important in both the chypre and fougére fragrance families and, although oakmoss is being restricted, there are synthetic variants that will give similar effects.

Seaweed absolute - can be used for a natural marine note but the most widely used in fine fragrance is Calone, which was prolific in perfumes of the 1990s.

Calone - has a sweet, melon, ozone-like fragrance, which many people find extremely cloying. This is often used with other fruity, melon, and marine notes.

SPICY NOTES

Spice notes play a huge part in perfumery as accessory notes for floral and oriental fragrances.

Spices can be overpowering, and notes such as cumin can take on a slightly sweaty odor that may smell unpleasant on skin.

There are warm spices such as clove (or Eugenol), which can give a carnation effect to florals, and cooler, dry-spice notes like black pepper.

Shinus molle, or pink pepper, has been used extensively over the last few years in floral fragrances.

Cinnamon, nutmeg, and coriander can also be used, as can other foodie spices like cardamom in the form of distilled essential oils.

Source: Perfume: The Art and Craft of Fragrance by Karen Gilbert More: Word Lists ⚜ Notes & References ⚜ Perfumery ⚜ Fragrance Writing Resources PDFs

[zegalba]

[clipitcutout]

Vintage/misc perfume bottles pngs!

Follow for daily uploads 💖

[littlealienproducts]

Indie Vegan Perfume Oil by LunarLifeApothecary

[saintfelina]

[diaphanous-dianthus]

So I’ve been milling over this idea for awhile but I decided to bite the bullet on it and do it because I’m bored and have had a creative block the past couple days so here it goes:

Perfume/Scent matching the Phantom Troupe members based on what I’d think they’d personally wear

Chrollo Lucilfer: Nosferatu - Heretic Parfum

For Chrollo, I think he’d wear something that makes him inconspicuous. After all, he’s the shadowy mysterious leader of the Troupe. Also the brand name is oddly fitting considering Chrollo’s whole vibe/aesthetic.

This perfume is like a ghost, just barely a whisper but it still remains present. The petrichor note gives this fragrance an aquatic yet earthy feel. The florals are not too fruity or too sweet, they are almost a bit green. By no means this perfume is a powerhouse - quite the opposite. But this doesn’t mean it’s doesn’t make a statement. Just when you almost forget that it’s there, the whiff of rain-soaked lilacs drifts by.

Side note: Also another honorable mention is L’Orpheline by Serge Lutens. I haven’t gotten my nose on that one, but I think from what I’ve read about it and seeing the notes I think it also very much fits his character. (also lowkey he probably really likes sweet gourmand perfumes as someone who has a sweet tooth per the drama CDs, though he’d probably wouldn’t wear it himself unless it was for a disguise or something)

~~~

Perfume Matching the Phantom Troupe

Machi Komacine

[fragranticareviewers]

[pinkangel2]

[anbrosial]

[3liza]

man it sucks so many people on here have absolutely convinced themselves that entire categories of consumer goods like perfume are bougie. you are depriving yourself of little treats by just assuming you cant ever afford anything! this isnt an avocado toast post either im not saying 'just save up and buy it lol', i would never say that, what im saying is perfume (that is: scents in liquid, paste, oil or solid form intended to be worn as a personal adornment) as a commodity starts at "free" and gradually increases in price from there. my favorite perfumes are priced everywhere between $0 and $300. one of the most lauded amber scents in the world (regrettably JUST discontinued), "Amber Paste" by Kuumba Made, is one of those little hippie oils you get at Whole Foods and it cost $10.

and im not telling you to wear perfume, obviously people have allergies and shit, or just dont care for it, im talking to the people who WANT to own fragrances. im saying they aren't all going to cost $150.

you can also get unlimited (unlimited over a long enough timeline, they limit you to a couple or three per visit) free samples at a lot of sephoras and nordstroms if you live somewhere that has those stores (this depends on the location and a lot of other organic factors, you'll have to check ahead of time or just try it if you're nearby, it's sort of random). if you're actually buying something at sephora (and they have a lot of stuff that isn't a million dollars as well, despite their branding) ask for every free sample at checkout that they have. they will often load you up, and not just with perfume. secondhand outlets like Value Village and Goodwill also do huge business in perfume because people are ALWAYS donating it.

sephora also does perfume refills. if you actually do buy a full size bottle, they can refill it for much less than buying a whole new bottle of the stuff. i don't know exactly how much it costs because i havent used this service myself. and idk how careful yiou have to be about reeceipts either, but look into it if you bought a full size and its running out

idk it just bums me out there are all these people who actually want perfume and seem to think it's out of their price range. the really basement-tier dupes of popular brand scents are so good these days it's often worth dropping the $10 at Walmart or Rite Aid too.

some of my favorite ever perfumes were some weird crap i got in a crystal wizard store, or a drug store, or a goodwill, or whatever. if you want perfume you can get it

[literaryvein-reblogs]

Some Perfumery Vocabulary

Absolute - An extraction from a concrete using alcohol. The essential oil of scented flowers and other aromatic plant parts in its purest and most concentrated form. It is extremely expensive. A few important oils used in an absolute form are: geranium, lavender, lily, and rose.

Accord - A combination of a number of different scents which blend together to produce a new fragrance.

Agrestic - "Of the countryside"; odours of heather, forest depths, and the meadow.

Aldehydes - Aromatic chemicals isolated for the first time in the 19th century, but that also occur naturally. Certain aldehydes provide an increased diffusiveness, sparkle, and lift to perfumes, most famously in Chanel No. 5.

Almondy - Bittersweet, soft, and nutty scent.

Amber - An accord in perfumery that is supposed to recall the qualities of ambergris. It is often constructed with labdanum, Tolu balsam, or Peru balsam. Often an accord in Oriental perfumes.

Ambergris - A highly prized perfume ingredient consisting of the oxidized excretion from a sperm whale. It is rarely used in its natural form in perfumery because of its rarity, exorbitant cost, and concerns about sourcing ambergris from live whales rather than from shore-found ambergris. It’s said to have an earthy, sweet, tobacco, and pleasantly animalic scent. It primarily works to bring out other notes in perfumery rather than to impart a particular scent on its own.

Ambrein - The primary scented molecule in ambergris, isolated and used in perfumery. It’s warm, sweet, vanillic, and ambery, with facets of spice and tobacco.

Animalic - Describes fragrances with animal ingredients in natural or synthetic form, including civet, castoreum, musk, or ambergris. The voluptuous, erotic, and sometimes disturbing quality of animalic perfumes can register in an olfactory way, as something “dirty” or animal-smelling, or as a feeling, a mood, or a quality. Sometimes, it can be both.

Aromatic - Having a strong or distinctive smell.

B—E

Balance - A combination of different fragrance notes so adjusted in proportion to one another that none of the individual notes is more prominent than any of the others.

Balsamic - The resin from the bark of trees and shrubs (Peru, Tolu, styrax) that have a rich vanilla scent. Balsamic is a term used to describe perfumes with the soft, ambery aspects these resins impart.

Benzoin - A sweet, balsamic resin used in incense and as a base note in perfume for its vanillic scent and fixative properties. Also known as styrax because it comes from the bark of the styrax tree.

Bergamot - The essential oil from the peel of the nonedible Citrus aurantium fruit that looks like a small orange. Its sweetish, mellow lemony scent is a crucial top note in perfumery.

Calone - A synthetic “marine” note that is supposed to evoke the freshness of the ocean. It has a slight watermelon facet.

Camphoraceous - Describes a fresh, clean, medical fragrance.

Caramel - Sweet, rich, creamy, buttery scent.

Cardamom - An intensely aromatic, sweet spice from the ginger family, in the form of a pod filled with seeds.

Carnation - A smoky, sweet, and clove-like scent, the latter facet due to Eugenol, the primary component of clove.

Cassis - (or black currant bud) A sharp, fruity, almost cat-urine-like scented perfume note.

Cistus - (or Labdanum) A resin from the rockrose bush, traditionally gathered from goats’ beards as they fed on the plant. Labdanum is said to be the note closest to the scent of ambergris. Creamy, soft, vanillic.

Citrus - Fresh, light fragrance characteristic of citrus fruits, but also imitated synthetically.

Civet - In classical perfumery, the cream harvested from the anal gland of the mongoose-like civet animal, often described as cat like. Fecal-smelling when undiluted, civet “rounds” out other notes when used judiciously. Famous as an overdosed note in Guerlain’s Jicky (1889), it is considered one of the first abstract modern scents. Civet is primarily in synthetic form now.

Clove - An aromatic spice similar to cinnamon, but less sweet. Its primary component is Eugenol.

Coniferous - The fragrance note of pine, spruce, juniper and similar such trees, often used in men's fragrances.

Diffusive - A perfume whose fragrance quickly becomes apparent in the air surrounding the wearer.

Dry - The aromatic effect of perfume ingredients such as woods and mosses in contrast to sweet and warm fragrances.

Earthy - The subtle fragrance impression of earth or earth-mould which is found in certain essential oils such as vetiver and patchouli.

Equine - Notes of hay and leather.

F—M

Floral - The general fragrance of flowers.

Fruity - Citrus, berries, tropical, and other non-citrus fruit scents.

Fungal - Molds, yeast, and mushroom scents.

Green - General fragrance of grasses and green plant parts.

Harmony - A pleasing combination of fragrance notes.

Hayfield notes - Usually based on coumarin, which have an odour of new-mown hay.

Heavy - Denotes a fragrance in which the least volatile ingredients, such as mossy or animalic ones, are dominant, giving a very strong effect. Such fragrances are mostly used in chypre and oriental-type perfumes.

Herbaceous - The characteristic general fragrance of herbs and herbal medicines. Sage, rosemary and lavender are examples.

Honey - Used as an ingredient in early Arab perfumes and appears in later European ones (e.g., Honey Water). In modern perfumery a substance providing the sweet aromatic effect of honey and known as Honey (or Miel) is manufactured synthetically.

Indolic - The disquieting, ripe, animalic, and almost excremental facet of scents.

Leather - A perfume accord and category of perfume constructed from various notes, including birch tar, styrax, castoreum, and a variety of synthetic notes.

Light - Delicate, clean, and fresh-laundry scent.

Marine - Iodized scent.

Mellow - Soothing and calming scent.

Metallic - A fragrance reminiscent of metal, providing a clean, cool effect. Metallic notes are used in perfumes to assist in promoting an effect, not as main fragrances.

Minty - A fragrance reminiscent of mint, e.g., peppermint or spearmint. Such fragances are usually used to provide a special, fresh effect in a top note.

Mossy - The general odour of oils obtained from mosses and lichens.

Musk - Produced by the musk deer and excreted by the male during mating season. Musk deer were killed almost to extinction for their valuable musk glands, which were dried, and whose musk “seeds” were removed and steeped in alcohol to create tinctures for perfume. The scent of real musk is warm, with depth and a dark animalic aroma. Many synthetics now can mimic musk scent, but one of the most superior musk synthetics, nitro-musks, which were in Chanel No. 5 and countless other vintages, has been banned due to toxicity concerns. Musk can also be substituted with plant ingredients including ambrette seed and angelica.

Musty - Damp, earthy, or stale odor.

N—W

Narcotic - Exceptionally strong and heavy fragrances obtained from some flowers (e.g. jasmine and tuberose) and animalic ingredients, which need to be used with careful discretion in a perfume.

Ozonic - A perfume accord that attempts to create the smell of fresh air after a thunderstorm.

Peppery - Odour of pepper.

Powdery - Soft and clean scent.

Rich - Fragrances that have numerous layers, notes, and accords in all stages (top, mid, base), creating a multifaceted feel.

Rounded - The overall smoothness and fullness of a fragrance.

Sharp - A strong scent.

Smoky - The slight smell of smoke created in a perfume by certain oils such as Birch Tar Oil. It is used in men's fragrances to provide a leathery effect.

Spicy - Describes in general the distinctive fragrance of essential oils which have been obtained from spices.

Sweet - A sweet and rather sugar-like fragrance such as vanilla.

Tobacco - Fragrances resembling cured tobaccos, which are particularly popular in masculine toiletries.

Wintergreen - Has a very powerful and fresh, medicinal odour.

Woody - Fragrances reminiscent of wood. These fragrances are provided by wood oils, such as cedar, by essential oils from other plants having a wood-like aroma, such as patchouli, and by synthetics.

Sources: Perfume: The Art and Craft of Fragrance by Karen Gilbert ⚜ The Perfume Handbook by Nigel Groom ⚜ Scent & Subversion by Barbara Herman ⚜ Scent: A Natural History of Fragrance by Elise Vernon Pearlstine ⚜ Introduction to Perfumery by Tony Curtis & David G. Williams ⚜ The Big Book of Perfume

More: Word Lists ⚜ References ⚜ Describing Scent ⚜ Fragrance Notes & Levels