#Mexican Cooking: The Flavor of the 20th Century
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TEXAS CHILI (1910)
You might call me crazy, but I decided to make a piping hot Tasting History recipe during one of the hottest weeks of the year. That recipe is for Texas Chili, published by the Gebhardt Chili Company in their 1910 cookbook, Mexican Cooking: The Flavor of the 20th Century. Early versions of chili were made up of meat that had been fried in fat and stewed with roasted, dried, ground up chili peppers, not far off from this recipe. While its origins are debated, most sources lead to chili stemming from what is now Texas, but was at the time part of Mexico. While many versions of chili today have many ingredients - beans, corn, etc. - the original was very simple: just meat fried in its own fat and ground up chili peppers. This Tasting History recipe, while using similar ingredients, specifically uses Gebhardt's Chili Powder, one of the early companies which created a pre-ground chili powder (which also contained garlic and other spices). In the late 19th and early 20th centuries, around the time this recipe was published by Gebhardt's, the Chili Queens of San Antonio would bring huge pots of chili to the plazas of San Antonio, heat them up over mesquite fires, and serve up piping hot bowls of chili while dancers and musicians entertained the patrons. Sounds delightful! I decided to make this dish for a unique reason: I developed an allergy to red tomatoes when I was a teen, and have been chasing a good non-tomato chili recipe ever since. What luck, that the original chili recipes didn't contain tomatoes! So, I am especially excited for this Texas Chili. See Max’s video on how to make the dish here or see the ingredients and process at the end of this post, sourced from his website.
My experience making it:
I did have to make a few changes to the ingredients, unfortunately. I couldn't find tallow anywhere, so I used lard in its place (I read online that they have similar smoke points and savoury flavour). Most crucially, I couldn't find anywhere to buy basic chili powder in my area of Germany, nevermind Gebhardt's Chili Powder (which is still sold in the US today, apparently). Strangely, Gebhardt was a German immigrant to the US, but in present-day Germany (at least in my area), it was impossible to find a chili powder that would taste similar to an American one. There were chili flakes, dried chilis, and sweet paprika (the favourite spice of the Germans), but no chili powder to be found. I settled on making my own version of Gebhardt's chili powder using 'Paprika rosenscharf' as my base. I mixed 2 tablespoons of this with 1/2 tablespoon garlic powder and 1/2 tablespoon cumin (the garlic is listed as an ingredient by Gebhardt, but so is 'Spices', so I used cumin for that part). I ended with a pretty good stand-in for chili powder - it smelled and tasted right. For the beef, I used pre-chopped goulash beef to make my life a little easier.
I mixed the beef and lard (tallow replacement), then seasoned with salt. I melted more lard in my pot, fried the onions until a little crisp, then added the beef. I stirred quite constantly, for fear of burning the beef. Like Max said, the amount of lard bubbling in the pot was pretty impressive, and slightly worrisome for my health, but it did eventually boil down after 45 minutes or so. When the beef started to dry up a bit and as it began sticking to the bottom of the pan a bit, I added the water and my makeshift chili powder; the dish immediately turned a brilliant red. At this point, I had forgotten to chop the garlic, so I did so as fast as I could and threw it in. Luckily, the simmer time was so long for the beef to turn tender that the garlic still got a proper chance to flavour the dish. It simmered for just over an hour, and I did stir it once in a while to make sure nothing caked onto the bottom of the pan. I still am not entirely sure how it thickened, but it did somehow! I was surprised by this, because Max's version looked thinner. I served up two hot bowls for my husband and I, accompanied by a side salad and a bit of bread for dipping.
My experience tasting it:
My first spoonful was so lovely and flavourful, and the beef was nice and tender, not chewy at all. I could taste the faint onion and garlic flavours, but the chili powder was really front and centre. There was definitely a decent amount of spice to it (at least compared to Max's), but I think this could have been due to my improvised chili powder's spice ratio. The chili was thicker than I expected, but this made for great dipping with the bread. Both my husband and I cleaned our bowls completely, so this Texas Chili was definitely a hit. I do wonder if that had to do with the amount of lard in it, but I prefer not to think about that part, if I'm honest. I had hoped there would be leftovers I could leave in the fridge overnight in order for the flavours to intensify and give us another delicious dinner the following day, but nope: we ate the entire pot! I would definitely make this recipe again despite its long cook time. However, due to the amount of lard in it, I would only make it once in a while, as a special treat. I think there are so many ways to customize this recipe, either by adding beans, corn, or other vegetables, or by adding a couple extra spices for a change. Chili is a simple and hearty dish, but part of its charm is in how many variations there are. Going forward, I might just make this my base recipe for (tomato-free!) chili that I will change up a little each time I make it. Maybe one day, someone will call me a Chili Queen, too! If you end up making this dish, if you liked it, or if you changed anything from the original recipe, do let me know!
Texas Chili original recipe (1910)
Sourced from Mexican Cooking: The Flavor of the 20th Century by Gebhardt Chili Company, 1910.
Cut two pounds of beef into one-half inch squares, add about two ounces chopped tallow, then salt it. Use a high pot (granite-ware is best), heat in this pot two tablespoonsful of lard; add to this a small-sized chopped onion; when the onion is about half done, add the meat; stir well until the meat is separated and white, then let steam or parboil (with cover off) over a rather hot fire, stirring frequently until the juice of the meat is boiled down, and when it starts to fry add about one and one-half pints of hot water, three tablespoonsful of Gebhardt’s Eagle Chili Powder and a few buttons of chopped garlic; stir well and simmer until meat is tender.
Modern Recipe
Based on Mexican Cooking: The Flavor of the 20th Century by Gebhardt Chili Company (1910) and Max Miller’s version in his Tasting History video.
Ingredients:
2 lbs (1 kg) beef
2 teaspoons (12 g) salt
1/4 cup (55 g) tallow
2 tablespoons (30 g) lard
1 cup (142 g) onion, minced
3 cups (700 ml) hot water
3 tablespoons (25 g) chili powder, Gebhardt’s Eagle Chili Powder for extra authenticity
2 tablespoons (28 g) minced garlic
Method:
Chop the meat into small cubes, about 1/2 inch.
Mix the beef and the tallow together, then add the salt and mix.
Melt the lard in a pot over medium heat and add the onions. Cook for 5 minutes, stirring so they don’t burn.
Add the meat mixture and cook, turning the meat frequently. Once all the meat has some color, continue to cook stirring every few minutes.
Once the juices have cooked off and the meat is left frying in the fat, add the hot water. Make sure the water is very hot, almost boiling. Add the chili powder and garlic and stir until everything is mixed well.
Bring the pot to a boil, then lower the heat and simmer with the lid off for 1 to 1 ½ hours. The time will depend on the heat and the cut of meat you’re using. Mine took an hour for the meat to get nice and tender. You shouldn’t have to add any more water, but keep an eye on it because if the water all boils away, the chili will burn.
After the chili has simmered and the meat is tender, serve it forth and transport yourself back to the plazas of San Antonio when the Chili Queens reigned.
#chili#max miller#tasting history#tasting history with max miller#cooking#keepers#historical cooking#20th century#americas#american recipes#beef#meat#spicy food#Mexico#mexican food#Texas#Mexican Cooking: The Flavor of the 20th Century#Gebhardt Chili Company#new world#stews
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Guava rugelach are an edible testament to Jews embracing the new ingredients and cooking techniques that they encountered in the Diaspora. They are also a testament to my mom, a culinary magician who wielded guava like a wand, infusing its sweet tones into our meals.
Brought to Latin America by Eastern European Jews in the early 20th century, cities such as Buenos Aires, Mexico City and Caracas have embraced rugelach. While many versions of the pastry still proudly bear the traditional Ashkenazi flavors of cinnamon, raisins and nuts, that’s far from the whole tale. Rugelach in Buenos Aires or Caracas might contain dulce de leche or cabello de ángel (pumpkin jam), while a stroll into a bakery in Mexico City might reveal rugelach filled with luscious chocolate ganache and aromatic Mexican vanilla.
This rugelach dough is enriched with sour cream, and results in a soft, flakey pastry. The pièce de résistance, though, is the guava filling.
Originating from Central and South America, “guava” translates to “fruit” in Arawak, the language spoken by the native communities of the Caribbean, where this fruit, similar in size to a passion fruit, grows in abundance. The guava’s tender skin encases a creamy white or orange pulp filled with numerous tiny black seeds.
As guava is a seasonal fruit and isn’t as widespread as mangoes or papaya, I call for guava paste, due to its unique sour-sweet taste profile. Often referred to as “goiabada,” this paste generally has a lower quotient of added sugars and presents a superior texture for baked products. Unlike runny jams and marmalades, guava paste is sculpted into a dense, sticky block yet remains soft enough to be sliced.
Growing up, my mom used the vibrant, naturally sweet guava as her secret ingredient, a touch of the tropics that hinted at Caribbean culinary tradition in Venezuela. It turned the simplest family recipe into an exotic treat. This recipe draws inspiration from her traditional guava bread, where history, heritage and affection were kneaded into dough and baked to perfection.
Her guava-infused creations echo loudly in my present, shaping the culinary adventurer in me and reminding me of the vital link between taste and memory. Guava rugelach are not merely a pastry but a narrative of the age-old Jewish practice of reinventing ourselves in the face of new environments. The story of my lineage in the Diaspora, one many fellow Jews can relate to, is etched in the buttery dough and sweet, aromatic filling. Each bite is a reminder of who I am: A fusion of cultures, histories and flavors.
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The Sizzling Symphony: Exploring the Art of the Fajita Plate
Introduction
In the realm of Mexican cuisine, few dishes manage to captivate the senses quite like the fajita plate. A sizzling symphony of flavors, textures, and aromas, this iconic dish has become a favorite not just for Mexican food enthusiasts but for anyone seeking a culinary adventure. Let's delve into the rich tapestry of the fajita plate, exploring its origins, ingredients, and the unique experience it brings to the dining table.
A Brief History
The origins of the fajita plate can be traced back to the ranches of West Texas in the early 20th century. Cattle ranch workers, known as vaqueros, would often be given the less desirable cuts of meat as part of their payment. Fajitas, derived from the Spanish word "faja," meaning belt or girdle, initially referred to the tough skirt steak these ranch hands would receive. Over time, these inexpensive cuts became a culinary treasure as Mexican-American communities discovered ways to marinate, season, and grill them to perfection.
Ingredients: The Building Blocks of Flavor
At the heart of any exceptional fajita plate are the carefully selected ingredients that come together to create a harmonious and mouthwatering experience. The primary protein is typically beef, though variations with chicken, shrimp, or even vegetables cater to diverse preferences. The cut of meat, often skirt or flank steak, plays a crucial role in achieving the perfect balance of tenderness and flavor.
The marinade is the secret weapon that elevates the fajita plate to new heights. A blend of lime juice, garlic, cilantro, and various spices infuses the meat with a burst of zesty and savory notes. The marination process not only imparts flavor but also tenderizes the meat, ensuring a succulent and juicy outcome when cooked.
Accompanying the star protein are colorful bell peppers and onions, adding a vibrant and crisp texture to the dish. The trio of meat, peppers, and onions is a classic combination that provides a satisfying interplay of flavors. The fajita plate is incomplete without the warm embrace of tortillas, serving as the vessel to deliver this delectable ensemble to eager taste buds.
The Cooking Process: A Sensational Performance
The fajita plate is not just a meal; it's a culinary performance that takes place right before your eyes. The key to its allure lies in the method of cooking – typically, a hot, sizzling cast-iron plate or skillet is used to sear the marinated meat and vegetables. The high heat produces a tantalizing sizzle that becomes music to the ears of food enthusiasts.
The sizzling presentation not only enhances the sensory experience but also keeps the ingredients at their optimum temperature, ensuring that each bite is as delightful as the first. The aroma that wafts from the hot plate is a symphony of charred meat, caramelized onions, and the subtle smokiness from the grill – a prelude to the feast that awaits.
Serving and Garnishes: A Feast for the Eyes
As the fajita plate makes its grand entrance from the kitchen to the table, the visual appeal is just as enticing as the aromas that precede it. The colorful medley of meats and vegetables arranged on the sizzling plate is a feast for the eyes, tempting diners to dive in and create their customized fajita masterpieces.
Accompanying the main components are an array of condiments and garnishes. Freshly made guacamole, salsa, sour cream, and shredded cheese provide the perfect finishing touches, allowing diners to personalize their fajitas to suit their taste preferences. The addition of lime wedges adds a citrusy brightness, cutting through the richness of the dish and enhancing its overall complexity.
Conclusion
In the world of culinary delights, the fajita plate stands out as a sensory celebration. From its humble origins to the tantalizing blend of flavors, textures, and aromas, every aspect of this dish contributes to a dining experience that transcends the ordinary. The sizzling performance, the vibrant presentation, and the opportunity for customization make the fajita plate not just a meal but a culinary adventure that continues to capture the hearts and palates of food enthusiasts worldwide.
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Kind founder Daniel Lubetzky is joining forces with two former executives from the snack brand to launch a Mexican food company based on the food they ate growing up.
Somos, which means "we are" in Spanish, is accepting wholesale orders from grocery stores and retailers now, with the expectation that its range of rice, beans, salsas, chips and plant-based entrees will reach shelves by January. The company's e-commerce site starts selling its chips and salsas Tuesday.
Check out their official website below:
Lubetzky joined forces with Kind's former chief marketing officer, Miguel Leal, and former head of product innovation, Rodrigo Zuloaga, to create Somos. Leal, who serves as the CEO of Somos, previously worked for such food companies as Cholula, Danone, Diamond Foods and PepsiCo's Frito Lay. All three men were born and raised in Mexico.
Somos' lineup doesn't include any meat, gluten or genetically modified ingredients, taking a page from Kind's playbook. Lubetzky founded the snack company in 2004, touting its bars as healthier than those of the competition. Lubetzky has retained a stake in the company and still serves as its executive chairman.
"We're always surprised at the lack of authenticity in Mexican food," Leal said. "Most of the food that exists in [consumer packaged goods] is Cal-Mex or Tex-Mex, not the food that we grew up with. We just thought that there was a big opportunity to bring ingredients, techniques, real Mexican food made in Mexico, cooked the Mexican, way into the market."
Lubetzky said he and Leal used to joke about the differences between the food of their childhood in Mexico and what has defined as Mexican food in the United States.
"Here, in America, in Mexican food, they put this yellow shredded cheese," he said. "In Mexico, it's fresh white cheese."
According to food service research firm CHD Expert, around 65,000 restaurants — or 7% of all U.S. restaurants — are dedicated to Mexican cuisine, as of 2020.
U.S. consumers started eating Mexican food in earnest during the 19th century as railroads carried tourists to the Southwest, according to Jeffrey Pilcher, professor of food history at the University of Toronto. By the 20th century, Chicago meatpackers had begun making chili and selling it in cans, slowly stripping the food of its Mexican identity and making it a U.S. staple. Restaurateurs like Taco Bell founder Glen Bell later made tacos their focus, paving the way for food brands like Old El Paso to start selling its Tex-Mex food in supermarkets nationwide.
Somos is positioning itself as a brand that doesn't sell Americanized Mexican food but instead uses traditional cooking techniques to draw in consumers and create better-tasting options. Leal said that the company is fire roasting the vegetables for its salsas, stone grinding its corn and slow cooking its beans. Somos is also nixtamalizing its corn, a process that involves cooking dried corn in an alkaline solution to improve its flavor and increase its nutritional value.
"It's just different from the different tortilla chips that you see in aisle nine," said Lubetzky.
Of course, most supermarkets across the U.S. now usually also carry smaller or regional brands that are made in Mexico or started by Mexican-Americans. For example, Mexican immigrants founded Cacique in 1973 and have since grown it into the largest fresh cheese maker in the U.S.
According to Gustavo Arellano, author of "Taco USA: How Mexican Food Conquered America" and a columnist for the Los Angeles Times, the demand for authenticity has helped make Mexican food a multibillion industry.
"As long as there's been Mexican food in the United States, Americans have been eating it to the point of assimilating it into their own diets and then demanding something more 'authentic,'" he said.
Now Somos is ready to sell its version of authentic Mexican food to U.S. consumers and take its own bite of the market.
"A lot of people are cooking with these ingredients, but they are looking for authenticity and a story," said Leal.
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How To Make Tortilla Soup?
Tortilla soup was born during the middle of the 20th century. Soup was seen as a stew or a stewing dish, but people realized that it was very healthy and very tasty. Tortilla soup was specifically made with flour tortillas, the Mexican version of the tortilla. Tortilla soup is very easy to make, as long as you have the tortilla in a bowl or on a plate.
A flour tortilla has a lot of different uses; you can use it as a tortilla to serve corn on the cob on. You can bake it, wrap it in aluminum foil, and eat it on the grill. You can use it to make your own guacamole, which is a mixture of tomatoes, cucumbers, onions, green peppers, and cilantro.
There are many different ways to make a homemade tortilla soup. It is better if you can enjoy it with your family or by yourself.
Most people think that to make a soup of any kind, you need to boil it or steam it. But cooking a soup like this is much more simple.
For the soup, you start by heating up some water in a saucepan with one tablespoon of flour, until it boils. This will make the soup "bubble".
When the mixture is boiling, you then add in the tortilla (which is cut into pieces) and stir it around for a few minutes until the tortilla is cooked and slightly softened. If the mixture seems to be too thick, add some extra water. When the tortilla is soft, you will be able to pull it out easily.
When making tortilla soup, you should not use too much salt, as it will destroy the flavor of the tortilla. Usually you can add more if needed.
There are many different ways to serve the tortilla soup. You can either eat it plain, or you can add some chips or some crackers to it.
If you choose to put the chips in a small bowl, that way they will be easier to eat and help in spreading the soup throughout the bowl. Toppings for the soup can be avocado, onions, and tomatoes.
For the veggies, try to find ones that have a natural meat flavor and don't have much onion, or any other kind of "soup" flavor. You can use any vegetables that you like but keep the amount of each small serving to about the size of a marble.
Since tortilla soup is very simple to make, you can also make it with other ingredients. These are better for parties but may not be as flavorful.
If you want to be able to enjoy the delicious flavor of tortilla soup, and since there are many great recipes out there, you should be able to find one that you like. Tortilla soup can be a great addition to any meal, whether you are having it for dinner or breakfast.
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Al pastor (from Spanish, "shepherd style"), also known as tacos al pastor, is a taco made with spit-grilled pork. Cooking method is based on the lamb shawarma brought by Lebanese immigrants to Mexico, al pastor features a flavor palate that uses traditional Mexican marinade adobada. It is a popular street food that has spread to the United States. In some places of northern Mexico and coastal Mexico, such as in Baja California, Mexico, it is known as taco de trompo or taco de adobada. A similar dish from Puebla that uses a combination of middle eastern spices and indigenous central Mexican ingredients is called tacos árabes. During the 19th century, variations of a vertically-grilled meat dish, now known by several names, started to spread throughout the Ottoman Empire. A wave of Lebanese immigrants to Mexico, mainly Christians such as the Maronites who have no religious dietary restrictions on eating pork, arrived in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, and introduced the Lebanese version, shawarma.
In the 1960s, Mexican-born progeny of these immigrants began opening their own restaurants and combining their heritage with Mexican cuisine. Being derived from shawarma, it is also similar to the Turkish döner kebab and the Greek gyros.
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How Rotel Became an Essential Part of Any Queso
Sheila Fitzgerald/Shutterstock
How a canned blend of tomatoes, chiles, and spices became at million-dollar business
When Erin Smith, chef and owner of Houston’s Feges BBQ, makes queso, she does it the Texas way. She cuts a package of Velveeta cheese into half-inch cubes and adds them to a saucepan until — after the addition of peppers, spices, and tomatoes — the resulting mix is fully melted. By the time the queso is served alongside chips for dipping, it’s rich, yes, but also a bit spicy. Hints of chile pepper and tomatoes seep through the layers of cheese, thanks to a not-so-secret ingredient: a can of Rotel.
“I am a native Texan, and I lived in New York and San Francisco for a few years,” Smith says. “At the time, you couldn’t find Rotel in either of those cities. I would get care packages with shipments of Rotel because it was the only way to make a proper queso. I truly believe that you just can’t make a proper queso without Rotel.”
The original Rotel was and still is a simple mix of diced tomatoes and chopped fire-roasted green chile peppers, plus minimal amounts of cilantro, citric acid, salt, and the ever-ubiquitous “natural flavors.” The marriage of chiles and peppers is stirred at the canning site into tomatoes simmering in a bit of water, and it packs heat — the branding is quick to label the taste “zesty,” with a “distinctly regional flavor.” For Sade Onadiji, Rotel was one of the essential ingredients her mother adopted when she moved to Texas from Grenada. “I only use it for nachos and queso,” Onadiji says. “It’s part of my mom’s queso recipe, which I’m sure she had to pick up in Texas, because she’s an immigrant from a country where queso isn’t a thing.”
The story of Rotel, which is now available in different spice levels and chile types, dates back to 1943. It originated in Elsa, Texas from a vegetable canner named Carl Roettele. Evolving from chile con queso in 19th century Mexico, recipes for cheese dip with various veggies in the early 1900s called for an exhausting process of roasting, peeling, and chopping chiles, then sautéing them with tomato and onions and mixing them with grated cheese. By the 1920s, this type of chile con queso was a common menu item in Texas restaurants and home kitchens. However, according to food writer Robert F. Moss, the cooking process of pepper roasting and cheese grating was exhausting, leading Texans to wonder if there was a simpler alternative.
A Mexican horticulturist named Fabian Garcia is considered the father of the Mexican food industry in the United States, according to Paul Bosland, director of New Mexico State University’s Chile Pepper Institute. In the early 20th century, Garcia invoked hybridization to create the “New Mexico No. 9,” a pepper that was a bit milder in heat, and was sized to allow for more cost-effective processing. This chile became the prototype for more commercial chile processors of both canned green chiles and dried red chiles. Merchandisers were able to scale up their production, which expanded the chile pepper’s reach and popularity across the south, including Texas.
Recognizing the penchant for tomatoes and chiles in Texas, as well as the frustration with preparing them, Roettele came up with a grand idea. “He saw how popular the combination of tomatoes and chiles were together, so one day, he just had this idea: Why not can those together?” says Rotel brand communications manager Dan Skinner. Skinner says while there are new flavors and versions of Rotel — like chipotle and chili fixin’s — the original recipe stands as a foundation. “Rotel,” a phonetic spelling of the inventor’s last name, took off.
Throughout the rest of the ’40s, Rotel became popular in the major Texas cities like Houston, Dallas, and San Antonio, finding a place in dishes like guacamole, stews, nachos, crockpot dishes, mac and cheese, and of course, queso. Numerous iterations of queso already existed throughout the south before the inception of Rotel — even inciting some friendly border wars between states — but Rotel quickly became an essential ingredient, and queso’s popularity as an essential dip for football games, family events, and other gatherings became omnipresent. Rotel began marketing itself as a queso ingredient in 1949 through a recipe for chile con queso that simply required adding the canned good to melted cheese and serving it with chips.
Similar to many other canned good companies of that time, like Van Camp’s, Dinty Dinty Moore Beef Stew, and Campbell Soup Company, after gaining hometown popularity, Rotel slowly began to spread to nearby states like Oklahoma and Arkansas in the ’40s and ’50s, inspiring a cult following of sorts in the South. Not having to dice peppers was appealing, and an inexpensive canned good that could add so much seasoning to household staples was appreciated. Between 1948 and 1958, the number of supermarkets in the United States doubled to more than 2,500 stores; though fresh ingredients were valued at the time, housewives gained a renewed appreciation for consumerism and convenience after World War II, sparking a devotion to canned goods that reached homes and neighborhood cooking competitions throughout the country, including the White House.
“In 1963, when Lady Bird Johnson was second lady, she gave Rotel its first big PR win when she listed some of her favorite Texas recipes,” Skinner says. “She had a chili recipe that she shared, and Ro-Tel was the secret ingredient.” Lady Bird’s Pedernales River Chili was served at the family ranch and the White House. Though many versions of that recipe simply called for canned tomatoes, purists have remained committed to the version that Lady Bird touted publicly, which includes the beloved ingredient in exchange for the listed whole tomatoes.
In 2005, Rotel and Velveeta, that other essential queso ingredient, became partners, allowing Rotel to reach the Northeast and Midwest. Over the last 10 years, Rotel has become nationally available at 95 percent of retail locations; it’s now available at about 82 percent of stores in the Northeast. In 2002, ConAgra Foods acquired the Rotel brand, and now, its reach is far beyond the Texas cities that first popularized the pantry item. According to financial news site 24/7 Wall St., “Original” Rotel was the fifth most sold canned canned good in the United States in 2018, with $69.1 million worth of cans sold. The “Mild” variety placed 24th, with an additional $36.4 million in sales in 2018.
According to Skinner, the flexibility of Rotel is what’s made the item so popular both in Texas and around the nation. “You can take a basic recipe you’ve done a million different ways, but then you add Rotel, and suddenly it becomes spicy mac and cheese,” he says. “I think that versatility appeals to chefs and home cooks.”
For Savannah Bock, who has roots in Georgia and South Carolina, Rotel was an essential ingredient at her home, even if she didn’t know it growing up. “My mom put it in so much: ropa vieja, stewed okra, and black beans whenever we’d have taco night,” Bock says. “I found out Rotel was that secret ingredient when I went to college and tasted it in this Velveeta queso mix — I realized that my mom had been using Rotel all along.”
But not everyone is fully committed to the can. Mexico native and Houston chef Felipe Riccio prefers making his queso — tomatoes and chiles included — from scratch. Still, he recognizes the value of pre-canned tomatoes for home cooks and chefs alike.
“Rotel is a comfort food,” he says. “I don’t think it’s a bad product, I just prefer to tweak it or use it as a base.”
In a world burdened with the ongoing effects of a global pandemic, comfort food is exactly what many home cooks are looking for. “It just has a really nice flavor that’s unique, and slightly spicy,” says Bock. “It’s really something that you have to bring to your dishes.”
For home cooks and chefs throughout the south, Rotel will likely make an experience on the football snacks table, in warm stews, and in old family recipes. Packing the harmonious blend of tomatoes and spice, Rotel — demonstrative of a beautiful marriage between convenience and flavor — will be a fall pantry essential for years to come.
Kayla Stewart is a freelance food and travel writer based in Harlem with roots in Houston, Texas.
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Sheila Fitzgerald/Shutterstock
How a canned blend of tomatoes, chiles, and spices became at million-dollar business
When Erin Smith, chef and owner of Houston’s Feges BBQ, makes queso, she does it the Texas way. She cuts a package of Velveeta cheese into half-inch cubes and adds them to a saucepan until — after the addition of peppers, spices, and tomatoes — the resulting mix is fully melted. By the time the queso is served alongside chips for dipping, it’s rich, yes, but also a bit spicy. Hints of chile pepper and tomatoes seep through the layers of cheese, thanks to a not-so-secret ingredient: a can of Rotel.
“I am a native Texan, and I lived in New York and San Francisco for a few years,” Smith says. “At the time, you couldn’t find Rotel in either of those cities. I would get care packages with shipments of Rotel because it was the only way to make a proper queso. I truly believe that you just can’t make a proper queso without Rotel.”
The original Rotel was and still is a simple mix of diced tomatoes and chopped fire-roasted green chile peppers, plus minimal amounts of cilantro, citric acid, salt, and the ever-ubiquitous “natural flavors.” The marriage of chiles and peppers is stirred at the canning site into tomatoes simmering in a bit of water, and it packs heat — the branding is quick to label the taste “zesty,” with a “distinctly regional flavor.” For Sade Onadiji, Rotel was one of the essential ingredients her mother adopted when she moved to Texas from Grenada. “I only use it for nachos and queso,” Onadiji says. “It’s part of my mom’s queso recipe, which I’m sure she had to pick up in Texas, because she’s an immigrant from a country where queso isn’t a thing.”
The story of Rotel, which is now available in different spice levels and chile types, dates back to 1943. It originated in Elsa, Texas from a vegetable canner named Carl Roettele. Evolving from chile con queso in 19th century Mexico, recipes for cheese dip with various veggies in the early 1900s called for an exhausting process of roasting, peeling, and chopping chiles, then sautéing them with tomato and onions and mixing them with grated cheese. By the 1920s, this type of chile con queso was a common menu item in Texas restaurants and home kitchens. However, according to food writer Robert F. Moss, the cooking process of pepper roasting and cheese grating was exhausting, leading Texans to wonder if there was a simpler alternative.
A Mexican horticulturist named Fabian Garcia is considered the father of the Mexican food industry in the United States, according to Paul Bosland, director of New Mexico State University’s Chile Pepper Institute. In the early 20th century, Garcia invoked hybridization to create the “New Mexico No. 9,” a pepper that was a bit milder in heat, and was sized to allow for more cost-effective processing. This chile became the prototype for more commercial chile processors of both canned green chiles and dried red chiles. Merchandisers were able to scale up their production, which expanded the chile pepper’s reach and popularity across the south, including Texas.
Recognizing the penchant for tomatoes and chiles in Texas, as well as the frustration with preparing them, Roettele came up with a grand idea. “He saw how popular the combination of tomatoes and chiles were together, so one day, he just had this idea: Why not can those together?” says Rotel brand communications manager Dan Skinner. Skinner says while there are new flavors and versions of Rotel — like chipotle and chili fixin’s — the original recipe stands as a foundation. “Rotel,” a phonetic spelling of the inventor’s last name, took off.
Throughout the rest of the ’40s, Rotel became popular in the major Texas cities like Houston, Dallas, and San Antonio, finding a place in dishes like guacamole, stews, nachos, crockpot dishes, mac and cheese, and of course, queso. Numerous iterations of queso already existed throughout the south before the inception of Rotel — even inciting some friendly border wars between states — but Rotel quickly became an essential ingredient, and queso’s popularity as an essential dip for football games, family events, and other gatherings became omnipresent. Rotel began marketing itself as a queso ingredient in 1949 through a recipe for chile con queso that simply required adding the canned good to melted cheese and serving it with chips.
Similar to many other canned good companies of that time, like Van Camp’s, Dinty Dinty Moore Beef Stew, and Campbell Soup Company, after gaining hometown popularity, Rotel slowly began to spread to nearby states like Oklahoma and Arkansas in the ’40s and ’50s, inspiring a cult following of sorts in the South. Not having to dice peppers was appealing, and an inexpensive canned good that could add so much seasoning to household staples was appreciated. Between 1948 and 1958, the number of supermarkets in the United States doubled to more than 2,500 stores; though fresh ingredients were valued at the time, housewives gained a renewed appreciation for consumerism and convenience after World War II, sparking a devotion to canned goods that reached homes and neighborhood cooking competitions throughout the country, including the White House.
“In 1963, when Lady Bird Johnson was second lady, she gave Rotel its first big PR win when she listed some of her favorite Texas recipes,” Skinner says. “She had a chili recipe that she shared, and Ro-Tel was the secret ingredient.” Lady Bird’s Pedernales River Chili was served at the family ranch and the White House. Though many versions of that recipe simply called for canned tomatoes, purists have remained committed to the version that Lady Bird touted publicly, which includes the beloved ingredient in exchange for the listed whole tomatoes.
In 2005, Rotel and Velveeta, that other essential queso ingredient, became partners, allowing Rotel to reach the Northeast and Midwest. Over the last 10 years, Rotel has become nationally available at 95 percent of retail locations; it’s now available at about 82 percent of stores in the Northeast. In 2002, ConAgra Foods acquired the Rotel brand, and now, its reach is far beyond the Texas cities that first popularized the pantry item. According to financial news site 24/7 Wall St., “Original” Rotel was the fifth most sold canned canned good in the United States in 2018, with $69.1 million worth of cans sold. The “Mild” variety placed 24th, with an additional $36.4 million in sales in 2018.
According to Skinner, the flexibility of Rotel is what’s made the item so popular both in Texas and around the nation. “You can take a basic recipe you’ve done a million different ways, but then you add Rotel, and suddenly it becomes spicy mac and cheese,” he says. “I think that versatility appeals to chefs and home cooks.”
For Savannah Bock, who has roots in Georgia and South Carolina, Rotel was an essential ingredient at her home, even if she didn’t know it growing up. “My mom put it in so much: ropa vieja, stewed okra, and black beans whenever we’d have taco night,” Bock says. “I found out Rotel was that secret ingredient when I went to college and tasted it in this Velveeta queso mix — I realized that my mom had been using Rotel all along.”
But not everyone is fully committed to the can. Mexico native and Houston chef Felipe Riccio prefers making his queso — tomatoes and chiles included — from scratch. Still, he recognizes the value of pre-canned tomatoes for home cooks and chefs alike.
“Rotel is a comfort food,” he says. “I don’t think it’s a bad product, I just prefer to tweak it or use it as a base.”
In a world burdened with the ongoing effects of a global pandemic, comfort food is exactly what many home cooks are looking for. “It just has a really nice flavor that’s unique, and slightly spicy,” says Bock. “It’s really something that you have to bring to your dishes.”
For home cooks and chefs throughout the south, Rotel will likely make an experience on the football snacks table, in warm stews, and in old family recipes. Packing the harmonious blend of tomatoes and spice, Rotel — demonstrative of a beautiful marriage between convenience and flavor — will be a fall pantry essential for years to come.
Kayla Stewart is a freelance food and travel writer based in Harlem with roots in Houston, Texas.
from Eater - All https://ift.tt/3esnZnb via Blogger https://ift.tt/389WHAW
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Guava rugelach are an edible testament to Jews embracing the new ingredients and cooking techniques that they encountered in the Diaspora. They are also a testament to my mom, a culinary magician who wielded guava like a wand, infusing its sweet tones into our meals.
Brought to Latin America by Eastern European Jews in the early 20th century, cities such as Buenos Aires, Mexico City and Caracas have embraced rugelach. While many versions of the pastry still proudly bear the traditional Ashkenazi flavors of cinnamon, raisins and nuts, that’s far from the whole tale. Rugelach in Buenos Aires or Caracas might contain dulce de leche or cabello de ángel (pumpkin jam), while a stroll into a bakery in Mexico City might reveal rugelach filled with luscious chocolate ganache and aromatic Mexican vanilla.
This rugelach dough is enriched with sour cream, and results in a soft, flakey pastry. The pièce de résistance, though, is the guava filling.
Originating from Central and South America, “guava” translates to “fruit” in Arawak, the language spoken by the native communities of the Caribbean, where this fruit, similar in size to a passion fruit, grows in abundance. The guava’s tender skin encases a creamy white or orange pulp filled with numerous tiny black seeds.
As guava is a seasonal fruit and isn’t as widespread as mangoes or papaya, I call for guava paste, due to its unique sour-sweet taste profile. Often referred to as “goiabada,” this paste generally has a lower quotient of added sugars and presents a superior texture for baked products. Unlike runny jams and marmalades, guava paste is sculpted into a dense, sticky block yet remains soft enough to be sliced.
Growing up, my mom used the vibrant, naturally sweet guava as her secret ingredient, a touch of the tropics that hinted at Caribbean culinary tradition in Venezuela. It turned the simplest family recipe into an exotic treat. This recipe draws inspiration from her traditional guava bread, where history, heritage and affection were kneaded into dough and baked to perfection.
Her guava-infused creations echo loudly in my present, shaping the culinary adventurer in me and reminding me of the vital link between taste and memory. Guava rugelach are not merely a pastry but a narrative of the age-old Jewish practice of reinventing ourselves in the face of new environments. The story of my lineage in the Diaspora, one many fellow Jews can relate to, is etched in the buttery dough and sweet, aromatic filling. Each bite is a reminder of who I am: A fusion of cultures, histories and flavors.
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27 Paleo Recipes for Hanukkah
Hanukkah is the festival of lights and celebrates the Miracle of the Oil, where only one day’s worth of oil was left in the menorah, and it burned miraculously for eight days. To commemorate this miracle, foods fried in oil are celebrated on Hanukkah especially latkes and donuts, alongside traditional Jewish staples.
Keep your traditional Hanukkah entirely Paleo with these 27 delicious recipes, including some for latkes and donuts. All of the following recipes are free from refined sugar, dairy, grains, refined oils, and legumes.
1. Sweet Potato Latkes
Latkes are quintessential Hanukkah food. Today’s popular potato latke, whose name in Yiddish means “little oily,” comes to us from the Ashkenazi Jews of Eastern Europe in the 1800s. This recipe uses sweet potatoes instead of white potatoes for a lower-carb Paleo option.
Recipe: PaleoPlan | Sweet Potato Latkes
2. Carrot Scallion Latkes
If you’re skipping potatoes entirely, these carrot latkes are the perfect substitute. You can also try parsnips or purple carrots for a colorful variety.
Recipe: Elana’s Pantry | Carrot Scallion Latkes
3. Parsnip-Apple Latkes with Smoked Salmon
For that little hint of sweetness, these throw in green apples and pair the final latke with smoked salmon and horseradish for a zesty flavor that will quickly become a year-round favorite.
Recipe: Primal Palate | Parsnip-Apple Latkes with Smoked Salmon
4. Paleo Applesauce
Latkes are traditionally served with applesauce because they taste so good atop your little oilys! But there’s a little more the story. If latkes are served with meat, applesauce keeps to the Kosher rule of not mixing meat and dairy in they same meal. This Paleo applesauce is easy to make in your own kitchen.
Recipe: PaleoPlan | Paleo Applesauce
5. Paleo Sour Cream
If latkes are served at a dairy meal, both applesauce and sour cream can be served. This non-dairy “sour cream” is perfect for serving with your latkes at any meal, keeping things Kosher and Paleo.
Recipe: Paleo Cupboard | Paleo Sour Cream
6. Paleo Challah
In Jewish culinary tradition, nothing signifies an occasion more than a loaf of challah bread! This easy grain-free Paleo challah substitutes wheat flour with almond, arrowroot, and potato flours.
Recipe: Zenbelly | Paleo Challah
7. Chopped Chicken Liver
Chicken liver is a traditional Hanukkah spread. Like potato latkes, chopped chicken liver recipes came to America with Eastern European Jews at the turn of the 20th Century. Nutritionally speaking, chicken liver is packed full of vitamins and minerals, and the recipe below is super easy to make and has bold, delicious flavor.
Recipe: PaleoPlan | Chopped Chicken Liver
8. Paleo Hummus
Hummus originated in the Middle East and has been a staple in the Jewish cuisine in that area for centuries. Only recently has it become popular in Western Jewish cooking. Traditional hummus is made with garbanzo beans, a legume that isn’t Paleo. However, hummus can be made with several Paleo-friendly ingredients, like the ones found in this recipe.
Recipe: PaleoPlan | Paleo Hummus
9. Paleo Plantain Chips
Plantain chips taste like potato chips, only better! Full of fiber, plantain chips are the perfect complement to your hummus and chicken liver spreads.
Recipe: Fed and Fit | Paleo Plantain Chips
10. Salt and Pepper Crackers
Making your own crackers is super easy and very rewarding. With just a few minutes and four ingredients, you’ll have a batch of perfectly crunchy crackers for your appetizers and you’ll never want the store-bought stuff again!
Recipe: Elana’s Pantry | Salt and Pepper Crackers
11. Simple Bone Broth
Bone broth is Jewish soul food. Slow simmered with bones, it is full of collagen and gelatin, as well as minerals and amino acids like glycine that are central to digestive health, proper immune function, and wound healing. It works perfectly as the starter to any celebration, including Hanukkah, and can be used as any soup base.
Recipe: PaleoPlan | Simple Bone Broth
12. Turmeric Chicken Noodle Soup with Zoodles
This grain-free chicken “noodle” soup is filled with nutritious veggies, like zucchini noodles, and gets its warm glow from a generous portion of anti-inflammatory turmeric.
Recipe: PaleoHacks | Turmeric Chicken Noodle Soup with Zoodles
13. Ginger, Carrot, and Sweet Potato Soup
Creamy, rich, and savory, this comforting soup is sublime in all the elements: texture, flavor, and aroma. It’s the perfect winter soup and makes an excellent Hanukkah meal first course.
Recipe: PaleoPlan | Ginger, Carrot, and Sweet Potato Soup
14. Paleo Slow Cooker Beef Brisket with Potatoes and Onions
Brisket is Jewish “comfort meat” and it’s the perfect centerpiece for your main Hanukkah meal. Slow cooking brisket softens up the tough collagenous fibers and makes this dish incredibly tender. Tomatoes, onions, and garlic add great flavor.
Recipe: Primal Palate | Paleo Slow Cooker Beef Brisket with Tomatoes and Onions
15. Brisket with Caramelized Onions and Porcini Mushrooms
Before there were slow cookers, brisket was cooked in the oven. This recipe does just that and the result is a superb one-pot meal of meat and veggies.
Recipe: Zenbelly | Brisket with Caramelized Onions and Porcini Mushrooms
16. Instant Pot Chipotle Brisket
If you’re looking to get your brisket nice and tender in half the time, pull out your Instant Pot! After the brisket is seared in bacon fat, this recipe takes on a Mexican flair with a chipotle powder rub. It’s quick and absolutely delicious.
Recipe: Fed and Fit | Instant Pot Chipotle Brisket
17. Lemon and Herb Roasted Chicken
Lemon, garlic, rosemary, and thyme are classic roast chicken seasonings and perfect for roasted chicken, a classic Hanukkah dinner.
Recipe: Paleo Newbie | Lemon and Herb Roasted Chicken
18. Fried Chicken and Latke Waffles
Not a classic, but a very fun spin on “chicken and waffles,” this recipe takes fried food to the next level. You’ll wow your family and guests on Hanukkah and find yourself returning to this recipe all year long.
Recipe: Zenbelly | Fried Chicken and Latke Waffles
19. Baked Salmon with Rosemary and Pecans
Supplying an abundance of anti-inflammatory omega-3 fatty acids, salmon is the definition of a superfood. Rosemary and pecans add flavor, aroma, and crunch.
Recipe: PaleoPlan | Baked Salmon with Rosemary and Pecans
20. Lamb Chops with Wilted Arugula and Pistachios
Lamb is rich in protein, minerals, and conjugated linoleic acid (CLA)—a compound with potent antioxidant properties. Paired with peppery arugula and buttery pistachios, this elegant meal elevates lamb to new heights.
Recipe: PaleoPlan | Lamb Chops with Wilted Arugula and Pistachios
21. Kale Salad with Pomegranate and Pumpkin Seeds
Pomegranates are rich in nutrition as well as Jewish symbolism. According to Jewish lore, pomegranates have 613 seeds, the same as the number of commandments of the Torah. Whether that’s a fact or not, they taste great and give meals an added touch of beauty.
Recipe: PaleoPlan | Kale Salad with Pomegranate and Pumpkin Seeds
22. Roasted Brussels Sprouts and Pomegranate
This seasonal side dish makes ordinary Brussels sprouts extraordinary with a sprinkling of festive pomegranate seeds.
Recipe: PaleoPlan | Roasted Brussels Sprouts and Pomegranate
23. Sweet Potato Noodle Paleo Kugel
You can’t have a Jewish celebration without kugel! Most commonly made with egg noodles, this grain-free version is Paleo-friendly and made with sweet potatoes.
Recipe: Paleo Running Momma | Sweet Potato Noodle Paleo Kugel
24. Veggie Kugel
This veggie-packed kugel supplies a rainbow of nutrition. It’s as pretty as it is delicious!
Recipe: Thriving on Paleo | Veggie Kugel
25. Grain-Free Donuts
A Paleo Hanukkah means it’s time to make the grain-free donuts! You can fry them, but baking is just as good (and less messy!). Made with Paleo-friendly almond and arrowroot flours, you can frost these donuts with either chocolate ganache or lemon glaze, or make a few of each!
Recipe: Primal Palate | Grain-Free Donuts
26. Chocolate Paleo Donuts
Perhaps it’s a chocolate dessert you’re craving this Hanukkah? Unsweetened cocoa powder and coconut flour create a rich and luxurious base for a topping of white chocolate icing.
Recipe: PaleoHacks | Chocolate Paleo Donuts
27. Healthy Homemade Chocolate Coins
What’s Hanukkah without Hanukkah gelt! This recipe makes suggestions for toppings for your coins but that’s totally up to you. Feel free to wrap your coins up in shiny paper and give them as treats to your family and guests. Hanukkah gelt is for children, but everyone will love these homemade coins!
Recipe: Allergylicious | Healthy Homemade Chocolate Coins
The post 27 Paleo Recipes for Hanukkah appeared first on PaleoPlan.
Source: http://ift.tt/10qRbxJ
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12 Things You Need to Know About Modelo
In a landscape where Corona won’t stop it with the beach commercials and Mexican craft beer is growing at a rate of about 50 percent per year, there’s Modelo, a beer with surprising staying power for all its squat-bottle modesty.
Modelo is the second most popular imported beer in the U.S. And all the brewery had to do was invent two styles (they make Cheladas, but we’re still mainly hot for Especial and Negra). But don’t let looks fool you: In that squat little bottle of effortlessly pleasant suds are influences ranging from political dealings with Napoleon III to American Prohibition.
Here are 12 things you need to know before cracking your next Modelo.
It’s all Hecho en Mexico
In an era where a product can be emblazoned with a brand touting cultural authenticity but be made somewhere entirely unrelated, it’s encouraging to know Modelo is still brewed in Mexico. Although the company has changed ownership in the last several years, the Grupo Modelo headquarters is still in Mexico City, and the breweries producing Modelo beer are all located in the country.
It’s part of a big booze family.
As noted in this Corona article, Modelo is owned by a large, New York-based conglomerate called Constellation Brands, making it economic step-cousins with brands like apparent competitor Corona, not to mention Ruffino Prosecco, Kim Crawford Sauvignon Blanc, Arbor Mist, and Svedka. The beverages have no actual correlation beyond ownership (unless you decide to test family ties and mix Modelo, Svedka, and a can of Arbor Mist Strawberry Margarita and end up with… probably a stomach ache.)
The lions on the label are there for pride.
Considering it’s made by one of the two largest brewing companies in Mexico (Grupo Modelo and Cerveceria Cuauhtemoc Moctezuma), Modelo represents a mini-empire of sorts. No shock then the label features two lions standing guard in a stance very similar to the lions on Mexico City’s own coat of arms.
We owe Modelo (in part) to an Austrian Emperor.
Speaking of empire, at least part of the reason Modelo emerged is thanks to the little-remembered reign of Austrian-born “Emperor of Mexico” Maximilian I. Maximilian, who got into his unlikely position by the regular means (wheeling and dealing with Napoleon III, for example). His reign in Mexico was short-lived (from April 1864 to 1867) but he did bring with him a pronounced taste for German- and Austrian-style beers, which continued to influence the growing world of Mexican brewing. (Maximilian, FYI, was a fan of Vienna-style dark beers, so he would have gone for Negra Modelo over Especial.)
It’s 95 years young.
Modelo might seem like a casual, easy-drinking beer, ideal for things like barbecues and beer pong, but it’s actually a venerated elder among beers. Modelo Especial was first brewed in a northwestern part of Mexico City called Tacuba all the way back in October 1925. By Halloween 2020, the brand will have been around for 95 years.
The brand benefited greatly from Prohibition.
Once American Prohibition took hold in 1920, all consumption of alcoholic beverages radically ceased in the U.S. (kidding!). Consumption of alcohol did decline, as it was tough to produce it safely and proficiently. So thirsty Americans turned to their neighbors to the south, where beer was still flowing freely. We got our first taste of Mexican beer then and haven’t lost a taste for it since.
We love it so much we drink an ungodly amount of it.
Modelo is the second most imported beer in the U.S. In 2018, we drank almost 64 million cases of the stuff. And even though Modelo came second to Corona in total consumption, Corona only had a 9 percent growth in sales from the previous year while Modelo consumption rose by 15 percent from 2017 to 2018. Both Corona and Modelo (and all Mexican beer) outpaced other countries in imported beer in 2018 and 2019.
It’s Mexican beer with German/Austrian roots.
You might recall from history class that Germans were migrating to America in droves in the 1800s, and many stopped in places like Pennsylvania (where, among other things, they basically invented American Christmas). But plenty of immigrants continued west and south to places like Texas and northern Mexico, bringing with them farming techniques, trades, crafts — and brewing habits. By the early 20th century, when Modelo was born, Mexico had around 35 breweries.
Your Negra Modelo would fit right in at Oktoberfest.
Modelo Especial is a light, crisp, pilsner-style beer. But its younger sibling, Negra Modelo, is modeled after the super-popular Munich-born dunkel style, made with roasted caramel malts and brewed longer for a slightly richer, dark-brass-colored beer. As far as we know, it’s also the most successful German-Mexican culinary hybrid out there (that is, until schnitzel finds its way into a taco, and we pray it will).
Back up, Bud. Modelo is the official sponsor of the UFC.
Most of us consume Modelo in decidedly non-pugnacious moods, e.g., at barbecues, lounging poolside, hiding from the sun under a schmear of zinc and a beach umbrella. But Modelo isn’t afraid of attaching itself to a little professional violence — as it proved in 2018 when it beat out none other than Bud Light for exclusive sponsorship rights to the Ultimate Fighting Championship. Among other things (like money), the sponsorship yielded this uplifting commercial featuring UFC featherweight Brian Ortega and Modelo’s “Fighting Spirit” campaign.
It makes decent ice cream (that won’t get you buzzed).
Beer isn’t a stranger to the kitchen, and especially the dark, subtly spicy, caramelly notes of a Negra Modelo seem made for the kitchen. In 2014, Modelo had the wise idea of partnering up with a celebrity(ish) chef who also had a reasonable claim to Mexican culinary savvy — Rick Bayless, who has a mini-Mexican culinary empire running out of Chicago. Out of that beautiful partnership we get a host of recipes fusing Mexican flavors and Modelo beer, including this one for Chocolate-Chile Negra Modelo Ice Cream and this award-winning chili recipe that pairs Negra Modelo with beef broth (and dares you not to drink it instead of cooking with it).
You should treat bottles of Modelo like little vampires.
As in, keep them out of the sun. Modelo comes in that uniquely shaped squat bottle, which is fun, but the glass is clear, which is less fun if you want to avoid your beer getting skunked. Since UV rays in sunlight are the main cause of skunking — which happens much faster than people tend to think — you can either store your Modelo in the fridge or small nearby cave — or simply avert the problem by consuming it quickly.
The article 12 Things You Need to Know About Modelo appeared first on VinePair.
source https://vinepair.com/articles/negra-modelo-beer-especial-guide/
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12 Things You Need to Know About Modelo
In a landscape where Corona won’t stop it with the beach commercials and Mexican craft beer is growing at a rate of about 50 percent per year, there’s Modelo, a beer with surprising staying power for all its squat-bottle modesty.
Modelo is the second most popular imported beer in the U.S. And all the brewery had to do was invent two styles (they make Cheladas, but we’re still mainly hot for Especial and Negra). But don’t let looks fool you: In that squat little bottle of effortlessly pleasant suds are influences ranging from political dealings with Napoleon III to American Prohibition.
Here are 12 things you need to know before cracking your next Modelo.
It’s all Hecho en Mexico
In an era where a product can be emblazoned with a brand touting cultural authenticity but be made somewhere entirely unrelated, it’s encouraging to know Modelo is still brewed in Mexico. Although the company has changed ownership in the last several years, the Grupo Modelo headquarters is still in Mexico City, and the breweries producing Modelo beer are all located in the country.
It’s part of a big booze family.
As noted in this Corona article, Modelo is owned by a large, New York-based conglomerate called Constellation Brands, making it economic step-cousins with brands like apparent competitor Corona, not to mention Ruffino Prosecco, Kim Crawford Sauvignon Blanc, Arbor Mist, and Svedka. The beverages have no actual correlation beyond ownership (unless you decide to test family ties and mix Modelo, Svedka, and a can of Arbor Mist Strawberry Margarita and end up with… probably a stomach ache.)
The lions on the label are there for pride.
Considering it’s made by one of the two largest brewing companies in Mexico (Grupo Modelo and Cerveceria Cuauhtemoc Moctezuma), Modelo represents a mini-empire of sorts. No shock then the label features two lions standing guard in a stance very similar to the lions on Mexico City’s own coat of arms.
We owe Modelo (in part) to an Austrian Emperor.
Speaking of empire, at least part of the reason Modelo emerged is thanks to the little-remembered reign of Austrian-born “Emperor of Mexico,” Maximilian I. Maximilian, who got into his unlikely position by the regular means (wheeling and dealing with Napoleon III, for example). His reign in Mexico was short-lived (from April 1864 to 1867) but he did bring with him a pronounced taste for German- and Austrian-style beers, which continued to influence the growing world of Mexican brewing. (Maximilian, FYI, was a fan of Vienna-style dark beers, so he would have gone for Negra Modelo over Especial.)
It’s 95 years young.
Modelo might seem like a casual, easy-drinking beer, ideal for things like barbecues and beer pong, but it’s actually a venerated elder among beers. Modelo Especial was first brewed in a northwestern part of Mexico City called Tacuba all the way back in October 1925. By Halloween 2020, the brand will have been around for 95 years.
The brand benefited greatly from Prohibition.
Once American Prohibition took hold in 1920, all consumption of alcoholic beverages radically ceased in the U.S. (kidding!). Consumption of alcohol did decline, as it was tough to produce it safely and proficiently. So thirsty Americans turned to their neighbors to the south, where beer was still flowing freely. We got our first taste of Mexican beer then and haven’t lost a taste for it since.
We love it so much we drink an ungodly amount of it.
Modelo is the second most imported beer in the U.S. In 2018, we drank almost 64 million cases of the stuff. And even though Modelo came second to Corona in total consumption, Corona only had a 9 percent growth in sales from the previous year while Modelo consumption rose by 15 percent from 2017 to 2018. Both Corona and Modelo (and all Mexican beer) outpaced other countries in imported beer in 2018 and 2019.
It’s Mexican beer with German/Austrian roots.
You might recall from history class that Germans were migrating to America in droves in the 1800s, and many stopped in places like Pennsylvania (where, among other things, they basically invented American Christmas). But plenty of immigrants continued west and south to places like Texas and northern Mexico, bringing with them farming techniques, trades, crafts — and brewing habits. By the early 20th century, when Modelo was born, Mexico had around 35 breweries.
Your Negra Modelo would fit right in at Oktoberfest.
Modelo Especial is a light, crisp, pilsner-style beer. But its younger sibling, Negra Modelo, is modeled after the super-popular Munich-born dunkel style, made with roasted caramel malts and brewed longer for a slightly richer, dark brass-colored beer. As far as we know, it’s also the most successful German-Mexican culinary hybrid out there (that is, until schnitzel finds its way into a taco, and we pray it will).
Back up, Bud. Modelo is the official sponsor of the UFC.
Most of us consume Modelo in decidedly non-pugnacious moods, e.g., at barbecues, lounging poolside, hiding from the sun under a schmear of zinc and a beach umbrella. But Modelo isn’t afraid of attaching itself to a little professional violence — as it proved in 2018 when it beat out none other than Bud Light for exclusive sponsorship rights to the Ultimate Fighting Championship. Among other things (like money), the sponsorship yielded this uplifting commercial featuring UFC featherweight Brian Ortega and Modelo’s “Fighting Spirit” campaign.
It makes decent ice cream (that won’t get you buzzed).
Beer isn’t a stranger to the kitchen, and especially the dark, subtly spicy, caramelly notes of a Negra Modelo seem made for the kitchen. In 2014, Modelo had the wise idea of partnering up with a celebrity(ish) chef who also had a reasonable claim to Mexican culinary savvy — Rick Bayless, who has a mini-Mexican culinary empire running out of Chicago. Out of that beautiful partnership we get a host of recipes fusing Mexican flavors and Modelo beer, including this one for Chocolate-Chile Negra Modelo Ice Cream and this award-winning chili recipe that pairs Negra Modelo with beef broth (and dares you not to drink it instead of cooking with it).
You should treat bottles of Modelo like little vampires.
As in, keep them out of the sun. Modelo comes in that uniquely shaped squat bottle, which is fun, but the glass is clear, which is less fun if you want to avoid your beer getting skunked. Since UV rays in sunlight are the main cause of skunking — which happens much faster than people tend to think — you can either store your Modelo in the fridge or small nearby cave — or simply avert the problem by consuming it quickly.
The article 12 Things You Need to Know About Modelo appeared first on VinePair.
source https://vinepair.com/articles/negra-modelo-beer-especial-guide/ source https://vinology1.tumblr.com/post/190308294219
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12 Things You Need to Know About Modelo
In a landscape where Corona won’t stop it with the beach commercials and Mexican craft beer is growing at a rate of about 50 percent per year, there’s Modelo, a beer with surprising staying power for all its squat-bottle modesty.
Modelo is the second most popular imported beer in the U.S. And all the brewery had to do was invent two styles (they make Cheladas, but we’re still mainly hot for Especial and Negra). But don’t let looks fool you: In that squat little bottle of effortlessly pleasant suds are influences ranging from political dealings with Napoleon III to American Prohibition.
Here are 12 things you need to know before cracking your next Modelo.
It’s all Hecho en Mexico
In an era where a product can be emblazoned with a brand touting cultural authenticity but be made somewhere entirely unrelated, it’s encouraging to know Modelo is still brewed in Mexico. Although the company has changed ownership in the last several years, the Grupo Modelo headquarters is still in Mexico City, and the breweries producing Modelo beer are all located in the country.
It’s part of a big booze family.
As noted in this Corona article, Modelo is owned by a large, New York-based conglomerate called Constellation Brands, making it economic step-cousins with brands like apparent competitor Corona, not to mention Ruffino Prosecco, Kim Crawford Sauvignon Blanc, Arbor Mist, and Svedka. The beverages have no actual correlation beyond ownership (unless you decide to test family ties and mix Modelo, Svedka, and a can of Arbor Mist Strawberry Margarita and end up with… probably a stomach ache.)
The lions on the label are there for pride.
Considering it’s made by one of the two largest brewing companies in Mexico (Grupo Modelo and Cerveceria Cuauhtemoc Moctezuma), Modelo represents a mini-empire of sorts. No shock then the label features two lions standing guard in a stance very similar to the lions on Mexico City’s own coat of arms.
We owe Modelo (in part) to an Austrian Emperor.
Speaking of empire, at least part of the reason Modelo emerged is thanks to the little-remembered reign of Austrian-born “Emperor of Mexico,” Maximilian I. Maximilian, who got into his unlikely position by the regular means (wheeling and dealing with Napoleon III, for example). His reign in Mexico was short-lived (from April 1864 to 1867) but he did bring with him a pronounced taste for German- and Austrian-style beers, which continued to influence the growing world of Mexican brewing. (Maximilian, FYI, was a fan of Vienna-style dark beers, so he would have gone for Negra Modelo over Especial.)
It’s 95 years young.
Modelo might seem like a casual, easy-drinking beer, ideal for things like barbecues and beer pong, but it’s actually a venerated elder among beers. Modelo Especial was first brewed in a northwestern part of Mexico City called Tacuba all the way back in October 1925. By Halloween 2020, the brand will have been around for 95 years.
The brand benefited greatly from Prohibition.
Once American Prohibition took hold in 1920, all consumption of alcoholic beverages radically ceased in the U.S. (kidding!). Consumption of alcohol did decline, as it was tough to produce it safely and proficiently. So thirsty Americans turned to their neighbors to the south, where beer was still flowing freely. We got our first taste of Mexican beer then and haven’t lost a taste for it since.
We love it so much we drink an ungodly amount of it.
Modelo is the second most imported beer in the U.S. In 2018, we drank almost 64 million cases of the stuff. And even though Modelo came second to Corona in total consumption, Corona only had a 9 percent growth in sales from the previous year while Modelo consumption rose by 15 percent from 2017 to 2018. Both Corona and Modelo (and all Mexican beer) outpaced other countries in imported beer in 2018 and 2019.
It’s Mexican beer with German/Austrian roots.
You might recall from history class that Germans were migrating to America in droves in the 1800s, and many stopped in places like Pennsylvania (where, among other things, they basically invented American Christmas). But plenty of immigrants continued west and south to places like Texas and northern Mexico, bringing with them farming techniques, trades, crafts — and brewing habits. By the early 20th century, when Modelo was born, Mexico had around 35 breweries.
Your Negra Modelo would fit right in at Oktoberfest.
Modelo Especial is a light, crisp, pilsner-style beer. But its younger sibling, Negra Modelo, is modeled after the super-popular Munich-born dunkel style, made with roasted caramel malts and brewed longer for a slightly richer, dark brass-colored beer. As far as we know, it’s also the most successful German-Mexican culinary hybrid out there (that is, until schnitzel finds its way into a taco, and we pray it will).
Back up, Bud. Modelo is the official sponsor of the UFC.
Most of us consume Modelo in decidedly non-pugnacious moods, e.g., at barbecues, lounging poolside, hiding from the sun under a schmear of zinc and a beach umbrella. But Modelo isn’t afraid of attaching itself to a little professional violence — as it proved in 2018 when it beat out none other than Bud Light for exclusive sponsorship rights to the Ultimate Fighting Championship. Among other things (like money), the sponsorship yielded this uplifting commercial featuring UFC featherweight Brian Ortega and Modelo’s “Fighting Spirit” campaign.
It makes decent ice cream (that won’t get you buzzed).
Beer isn’t a stranger to the kitchen, and especially the dark, subtly spicy, caramelly notes of a Negra Modelo seem made for the kitchen. In 2014, Modelo had the wise idea of partnering up with a celebrity(ish) chef who also had a reasonable claim to Mexican culinary savvy — Rick Bayless, who has a mini-Mexican culinary empire running out of Chicago. Out of that beautiful partnership we get a host of recipes fusing Mexican flavors and Modelo beer, including this one for Chocolate-Chile Negra Modelo Ice Cream and this award-winning chili recipe that pairs Negra Modelo with beef broth (and dares you not to drink it instead of cooking with it).
You should treat bottles of Modelo like little vampires.
As in, keep them out of the sun. Modelo comes in that uniquely shaped squat bottle, which is fun, but the glass is clear, which is less fun if you want to avoid your beer getting skunked. Since UV rays in sunlight are the main cause of skunking — which happens much faster than people tend to think — you can either store your Modelo in the fridge or small nearby cave — or simply avert the problem by consuming it quickly.
The article 12 Things You Need to Know About Modelo appeared first on VinePair.
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Today it’s Mexico’s Independence day! We are celebrating with a little tribute to these very special items in the shop that tell the stories about Mexico’s dynamic and colorful culinary heritage. 1) The legendary Aloha Cafe welcomed travelers into Tijuana with their tequila and gin cocktails beginning in Prohibition days in the 1920s. The Cafe operated throughout the 20th century before it burned down in 2011. This souvenir photograph holder is from the 1940s 🌴 2) Inspired by Mexico’s wonderful food culture, American poet, Ronald Johnson wrote the Aficionado’s Southwestern Cookbook in 1968 combining classic Mexican recipes with traditional Southwestern cuisine to create what would become a true classic cookbook of regional fare that is still remains a beloved favorite. 🌶 3) Scenes from old Mexico adorn the the pockets of the vintage blue and white checkered apron. 🌵 4) In the 1930s, American pottery, Edwin M. Knowles created this serving bowl in the Bench pattern (now a rarity ) which features Mexico’s artistic achievements highlighting maracas, cactus, rugs and colorful earthenware pottery 🎨 5) In 1965, Jan Aaron and Georgine Sachs Salom published The Art of Mexican Cooking after traveling all over every region in Mexico gathering authentic recipes and cooking instructions from passed down family favorites to elegant hotel fare. They researched, interviewed and cooked their way through countless kitchens from the most humble to the most lauded in order to return stateside so that they could adapt all they learned for American kitchens. 300 pages later this cookbook shares the most interesting recipes along with stories of history, culture and adventure. 🇲🇽 Happy Independence Mexico! Cheers and thank you for all the color and flavor you’ve added to the culinary industry. ♥️ - - - - - #mexicanindependenceday #mexicancooking #mexicanfood #alohacafe #mexicankitchen #vintagemexico #oldmexico https://www.instagram.com/p/B2e2PjsArlv/?igshid=nfzj2atomci0
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Tacocat Spelled Backwards Is Tacocat shirt
Picturestees - United States Trending T-shirt Tacocat Spelled Backwards Is Tacocat shirt
Tacos is a traditional Mexican pastry that has become a symbol of food in this Central American country. Tacocat Spelled Backwards Is Tacocat shirt. Even developed as a fast food item, exported to other countries. This dish is like a Mexican sandwich because of crispy golden crust, embracing the whole inside. Mexico – the country famous for its stretches of white sand beaches, the lively dance of beach girls, street food with flavors and colors. A country always brings new things. Mexico’s culinary elite can not help but mention Tacos. Give this city a cool breeze in the remote country. Talking about the culinary essence of Mexico can not fail to mention Tacos.
Mexican traditional dish – Tacos
Tacos is a burger made with cornstarch made from any kind of meat such as pork, beef, chicken, cooked fish that people choose on their own. In particular, Tacos can not be missing a bit of salsa and often served with onions, coriander. There are some people who enjoy Mexican traditional Tacos with forks and knives. But that is a very silly and wrong thing. Enjoying that handmade Tacos is the culinary culture of the Mexican people. As time passes, Tacos recipes gradually become more popular and varied. Until the early 20th century, many tacos were popular in the United States and Canada.
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And appeared in cooking books in 1949. Tacocat Spelled Backwards Is Tacocat shirt. The so-called Mexican sandwiches by Tacos were also created. From the crust and clamshell, there are many different ingredients and are prepared in different ways. Mexican food is presented in the corn tortillas, along with the chili sauce and the sauce served with the cakes. The cake rolls will be fried to soft and then folded together with the kernel. Beef, pork, chicken, fish, mushrooms, chilli … are cooked (can be grilled, steamed) to make bread. Along with the bread, this dish is usually served with green vegetables and tomato sauce. Depending on the taste of each person, the bread and processing methods can be changed accordingly.
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In Mexico, whenever the darkness begins to cover the streets, mobile tacos selling Tacos can be found everywhere and this “Mexican sandwich” becomes the number one choice because of the attractive flavors The ingredients are fried, grilled and steamed of the dish. This dish is also served as a light meal after dinner for the Mexicans. The most popular Tacos in Mexico is Taco al Pastor, which is also the favorite Tacos in the US as well as many other places. The main ingredient of Taco al Pastor is chopped pork, sliced and baked over fire – it is considered to be a cooked dish from Lebanese immigrants.
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There are also Breakfast Tacos available in restaurants along the southwest. Tacocat Spelled Backwards Is Tacocat shirt. Especially in New Mexico and Texas – the Breakfast Tacos core made from seasoned meat, eggs or cheese, operating. Today, Tacos is also sold in fast-food chains such as Taco Bell, Taco Del Mar, Mighty Taco … and fast-food restaurants like Burger King and Jack in the Box. From a long tradition of Mexican food, Tacos has become a well-known dish all over the world, so that when you come to this country you do not forget to enjoy the special “sandwich” here.
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Ben Carson and the Fate of Soul Food
Ben Carson and the Fate of Soul Food
70. Dr. Ben Carson, a brilliant pediatric neurosurgeon, is now the Secretary of Housing and Urban Development (HUD), because he’s….Well, I suspect the internal discussion went something like this: The U in HUD stands for “urban,” and, as Paul Ryan showed us, “urban” is a code word for “black.” So, let’s make Ben the head of HUD. A match made in Heaven or wherever, quod erat demonstrandum.
(By the way, this post will be about food. I promise.)
Anyway, back on March 6, 2017, his first day in office, Dr. Carson spoke to his HUD employees, declaring: “That’s what America is about, a land of dreams and opportunity. There were other immigrants who came here in the bottom of slave ships, worked even longer, even harder for less. But they too had a dream that one day their sons, daughters, grandsons, granddaughters, great grandsons, great granddaughters might pursue prosperity and happiness in this land.”
Let’s just say that the world of social media noticed. The Food Network’s Sunny Anderson had one of the more restrained reactions:
Carson’s statement did seem odd. When we think of “immigrants” coming to America, we probably don’t picture it like this:
Later in the day, on his first attempt to talk his way out of it, Dr. Carson appealed to a linguistic technicality: An immigrant might be defined as an individual member of a migration. Some migrations are voluntary, and some are not. (Ask the Cherokee people about the “not” version.) And so, it was as he first said: The enslaved were “involuntary” immigrants.
Well, ok. Some still objected. Jelani Cobb noted that calling an enslaved person an “immigrant” is like calling a kidnapping victim a “house guest.” At the time, slaveholders insisted that they were merely importing farm equipment, like a farmer today might import a Volvo tractor. The enslaved were considered property, not tourists. (Except when it came to seats in Congress. Then the slaveholders wanted their “property” to count the same as them. That’s where the infamous 3/5ths rule came in as a compromise.)
But even if we’re charitable and grant Dr. Ben that technical definition, it still wouldn’t explain his characterization that the enslaved had “worked even longer, even harder for less” in order to win the American Dream for their descendants.
On the face of it, it sounds like a backhanded argument against raising the minimum wage. Can’t make it on $7.25/hr? Stop whining, and work 16 hours instead of 8.
If that’s your politics, fine. But don’t compare it to life under enslavement. If we say they were working “for less” instead of “for free,” then we’re assuming that the enslaved at least got “paid” in free room and board, so it was ok. I mean, a hovel and a cup of cornmeal is worth something, right? There’s no free lunch.
And the rest of your “compensation”? Whippings were thrown in for free. Character-builders, I guess. Maybe Frederick Douglass wouldn’t have gotten up the gumption to escape and become an abolitionist hero if he hadn’t been beaten up so much.
Fact fact (not an “alternative fact”): Many of the enslaved who escaped made their way to Canada. What do we make of that? Carson said the African immigrants dreamed that their descendants “might pursue prosperity and happiness in this land.” But for many, “this land” was Canada, not America. So were they just un-American ingrates who didn’t realize how good they had it here? (See painting above….)
And while we’re at it, the enslaved weren’t quite allowed to have dreams for their descendants, because those descendants automatically inherited their enslaved status, simply by being born. They were, legally, the property of another person from birth. The tragic reality was something more like this newspaper clipping found by Michelle Munyikwa:
Before the day was over, the good Doctor was in full retreat. Carson insisted that he knows the difference between slavery and immigration. But that’s not so obvious. As Tera Hunter pointed out, this wasn’t the first time that Carson has waded into this swamp. He has compared Obamacare to slavery. He has compared reproductive freedom to slavery.
2014: One of the good ones had the guts to speak up
That rhetoric plays well on the right. Some insist on minimizing the horribleness of American enslavement, like Bill O’Reilly’s ridiculous comments last summer about “well-fed slaves.” We just don’t expect to hear it from a guy with ancestors who were, we assume, enslaved.
Bill O’Reilly, between lawsuits, pronounced slavery not so bad
But let’s turn the clock ahead to the early 20th century. Now, talk of “immigrants” (or more accurately, “migrants”) dreaming of a better life might be more plausible. We’re referring to the period known as “The Great Migration,” lasting from World War I into the 1960s, when millions of African Americans managed to leave the southern states for the north and west.
In this case, we certainly have the element of free choice. Indeed, as Carol Anderson summarizes in the second chapter of her book, White Rage, the southern white power structure used every tool at its disposal, short of starting another Civil War, to prevent African Americans from leaving. By that measure, it was the opposite of a forced migration.
We also have the motives that traditionally lured Europeans to America. Some went northward in search of better economic opportunities than were available in the segregated economy of the south. Others were running for their lives, seeking to dodge the renewed outbreak of lynchings and violence encouraged during the Woodrow Wilson administration.
In this sense, one might compare the experience of African American migrants in the north to the experience of foreign immigrant groups across our history, from the Germans, Irish, Scandinavians, Chinese, Italians, Mexicans, Koreans, and Vietnamese, to the Somalians, Ethiopians, and other more recent arrivals.
Food. Talk about Food…
For many reasons, migrants often seek out the food they ate back home. Opening small operations, such as cafes, food stands, pushcarts, and catering businesses has been a first step available for many minority groups in the face of racism, bigotry, and restriction.
Then, two things happen. First, the original “ethnic” dishes begin to take on the flavor of their surroundings. That was certainly the case for African American migrants. Some of the ingredients that were common and cheap down south were either unavailable in the north or their seasonality was more restricted. Much of today’s debate over yellow cornbread vs. white cornbread, for example, stems from the simple reality that up north, yellow cornmeal is what’s more likely to be on the grocery shelves. Northern wheat flour is different too.
We see this in the various menus of the Sweet Home Cafe at the Smithsonian’s new National Museum of African American History and Culture. What we probably think of as “soul food” is well-represented by the “Agricultural South” menu, with items like fried chicken, collard greens, mac and cheese, Hoppin’ John, and so on. The “Creole Coast” menu, representing the Low Country and Louisiana traditions, still sounds like soul food, with items like fried catfish (as a Po’Boy sandwich), and candied yams.
But as we move into the “North States” and “Western Range” menus, we run into items that don’t sound like “soul food” at all, like smoked Haddock, Yankee Baked Beans, “Son of a gun” Stew (with beef short ribs), and BBQ Buffalo brisket.
Sweet Home Cafe: soul food surrounded by history (NMAAHC photo)
These menus remind us that “soul food” is more than a particular list of dishes or ingredients. As a general rule, “soul food” dishes are characterized by close attention to seasoning, no matter what the dish is. There’s also that more esoteric quality of putting “love” or “soul” into the cooking. That’s impossible to pin down scientifically, but we know whether it’s there or not.
Both distinctions are important. Sometimes, we make “soul food” shorthand for “what black people eat.” By that measure, a Big Mac is soul food. In some areas, food redlining, like housing redlining, has helped create or reinforce segregated neighborhoods where people without sufficient money, transportation, or free time often end up going to the ubiquitous fast food places to grab cheap items made from government-subsidized ingredients. A Big Mac may not be a nutritionist’s dream food, but it is an economical way to get a lot of calories in a hurry.
No offense to the good folks at McDonald’s, but Big Macs are the antithesis of “soul food.” They’re not particularly well-seasoned, and it’s hard to put that indefinable element of “love” into food designed to be mass-produced quickly with minimal human intervention. There’s also no sense of down-home regionality in a Big Mac. Franchising’s raison d’être is that sandwich you buy in Bangor, Maine should taste like the one you buy in Pensacola, Chicago, Topeka, Sioux Falls, Salt Lake City, Oakland, or whatever McDonald’s in DC is closest to the NMAAHC.
Just don’t call it soul food
On the positive side, the historic regional flexibility and adaptability of African American cuisine offers a key to its survival. Fair or not (and in this blog, we say Not), many criticize the traditional soul food menu as unhealthy. But there’s no reason why soul food restaurants can’t include lower fat, less sweet items or vegetarian/vegan items and still be made with love and good flavor. The African roots of soul food point to an emphasis on vegetables over meat, and developing flavors beyond what we can get from fats and sugar. “Soul food” was inherently adaptive, and still can be.
The other thing that happens to migrant foods is more challenging: As migrant groups become more fixed in the community, people from outside that group start frequenting the local eateries, and over time, the food itself changes to meet the tastes of the new customer base. Americanized versions of Chinese, Italian, or Mexican dishes are typically unrecognizable to visitors from those nations. The taco you buy at a Taco Bell in Minneapolis is not like the taco you might buy from a food truck in Los Angeles, let alone one from Mexico.
Midwesterners have discovered this with the influx of Latin American immigrants in the last twenty years. Here in Sioux City, when we’re sorting out dinner plans, “Let’s have Mexican!’ is inevitably followed by “You mean real Mexican or Taco Bell?” Many local Mexican restaurants cater to both tastes. For instance, you can usually order a taco “American style” (i.e., with cheese, ground beef, and no cilantro).
One meme put the issue succinctly. Don’t look up chingadera. Use your imagination.
Even the “real Mexican” menu is an invention. There is plenty of regional diversity in Mexican cuisine, and most restaurants pick and choose. Some “real Mexican” restaurants around here include Dominican or Guatemalan dishes, in an attempt to cater to the needs of as many groups as possible.
How far can “authentic” soul food be stretched before it becomes something else? I’ve heard it said that “southern” cooking is nothing more than soul food dumbed down in taste, fancied up in looks, and boosted up in price. I can order fried catfish and a side of collards at the Cracker Barrel, and it’s ok…but it’s not quite soul food either.
In real estate, “gentrification” describes the phenomenon of young white professionals moving into older, predominantly African American neighborhoods in search of cheaper rents or home prices. They fix up their houses, and open up coffee shops and such. In the process, property values increase, rents go up. Then, those without the incomes to support the new requirements find themselves being driven out.
In 2015, “Saturday Night Live” doctored up a real-life business in Bushwick to create their “Martha’s Mayonnaise” spoof of what happens under gentrification in Brooklyn.
Recently, this phenomenon of “gentrification” has been applied to soul food.
Two things happen with gentrification: First, we risk losing the historical significance of soul food. Think of it this way: There’s nothing more All-American than hamburgers and hot dogs, but we never think of their German roots. What was the “Hamburg” style of meat? Do we ever stop to think that “wiener” refers to Vienna? Does eating a chicken and roadkill hot dog oozing with white filler move us to seek out the rich sausages of the Central European tradition? Likewise, if soul food survives by the gentrification route, would it get disconnected from its soul?
Gentrified German soul food
Second, with gentrification, the people who created soul food may well be left out in the cold. On the eater’s side, Eboni Harris noted the phenomenon of how “‘ethnic’ foods are ‘discovered’ by well-meaning foodies – often white – who then raise the price of these meals until the original purveyors and consumers can no longer afford to eat them.”
Once upon a time, for instance, oxtails were considered so useless that some butchers gave them away for the asking. Today, oxtails are expensive, especially considering the small amount of meat on them. Barbecue aficionados have noted the same when it comes to brisket.
This is significant for soul food because one of the historic keys to soul food was in the ability of African American cooks to apply the legacy of West African cuisine to make less desirable foods, like neckbones or collards, taste great. But it’s hard for the average person to practice cooking and perfecting traditional dishes if the ingredients break the budget. (When I wanted to make oxtails, I practiced on cheaper stew meat before I dared invest in actual oxtails.)
On the cook’s side, we run into appropriation, aggravated by the multitude of ways in which institutionalized racism hinders African Americans from being able to capitalize on their food heritage. The difficulties faced by trained African American cooks in becoming chefs are quantifiable. We can work our way through the lists of the annual James Beard award winners. We can count up the black chefs that make it onto Chopped episodes, or check cookbook sales.
Last fall, there was a minor media fluff over Neiman-Marcus selling collard greens. We titled our reaction, “Greens for People Better Than You.” The gist of the piece was to wonder why anyone would pay so much for frozen greens rather than go to a local soul food restaurant and by some fresh greens for a fraction of the cost, and probably with superior flavor to boot.
Robert Irvine no doubt makes fine collard greens. Does it matter if his face becomes the face of collards, and his seasoning sets the standard?
For some, this is when “gentrification” begins to sound more like flat-out appropriation: white folks coming in and taking over, obscuring the history, and making money off of other people’s food traditions and hard work, while using the tools of contemporary segregation, such as equal access to capital, to shut out or shut down competitors.
It’s a double injustice. Many southern/soul food dishes were created or perfected by enslaved cooks paid nothing, or by underpaid cooks working under Jim Crow. Spin the clock ahead to 2017, and their descendants are feeling cheated again. Many soul food places are closing down just at a time when southern cuisine and barbecue are coming to national attention and popularity.
At that point, the broader quest for social and economic justice will have an impact on the fate of soul food. If the arc of the moral universe really does bend toward justice, the impact will be positive. The restaurant business is always challenging, but people who want to cook soul food, or include soul food dishes, will benefit from increased opportunities to follow their dreams.
Those of us who like to eat and/or cook soul food have a moral obligation to those who passed it down to us to invest ourselves not just in groceries but in the broader quest for justice. That requires, in the first place, knowledge. We should learn the history behind the cuisine, and also understand the current situation. More on that in a moment.
Soul food may also benefit from a renewed interest in home cooking. Some watch food programming on TV just for its entertainment value, but others get curious enough to try their own hand at things. I can tell from the new options on the grocery shelves at my neighborhood Walmart that people’s kitchen horizons must be broadening.
For some, cooking is a lost art. I’ve had the disconcerting experience of being asked to give advice, tips, or soul food recipes to younger African American women. I’m always flattered, but it just feels weird that they’re asking an old white guy for something that would be better learned from their parents or grandparents. What do I know? I’m just a student myself, and a pretty elementary one at that. I feel like John the Baptist meeting Jesus: “You want me to baptize you? Dude, you should be baptizing me!”
Cooking takes time and practice, a willingness to learn by trial-and-error, screw up a dish, apologize to your family…and then come back and try it again. The current level of interest in cuisines and cooking may give soul food a boost, both in terms of learning to cook them the old-fashioned way, and in adapting the classics to meet our interest in healthier options.
Hopefully, this hands-on practice in the kitchen may also get more people interested in the history behind the soul food. It’s in the nature of that cuisine that some of us are curious about what has gone into the “soul” part.
We know how this works in music. When Chuck Berry died in March, many of us on the downhill half of life’s mountain climb paused to reflect on the music of our childhood.
Chuck Berry in London, 1965. His music ended up teaching me more than music.
Like a lot of white teenagers in the 70s, I discovered Chuck Berry retroactively. I had learned his songs first from the covers done by the Beatles and the Stones. But then I got interested in going back and finding Berry’s originals, and that, in turn, led me to dig back even further into the roots of rock and roll in the r&b and jazz of the 1930s and ’40s. It wasn’t just the music either. Learning how the Delta blues became the Chicago blues, for instance, led to my introduction to the topic of the moment: the Great Migration.
The same has been true in exploring soul food. It prompted me to go back and learn a lot of history that I was never taught in school, and then to think about how that history continues to impact us. This blog reflects some of that journey. I’m sure some react to putting food and history together the same way that some react to putting pineapples on pizza. But I like it.
So, the question of authenticity may solve itself. Some will surely try to capitalize on dumbing-down soul food dishes for a broader audience, but others will respond by offering something more faithful to the living traditions.
Bottom line? Food is always in transition. Techniques, equipment, ingredients, and tastes change. “Soul food” isn’t a museum piece. It’s a living cuisine, and it would be inauthentic to try and somehow freeze it in time. Even the name may change. “Soul food,” after all, was a 1960s invention. The great Edna Lewis, it will be remembered, called it “country cooking.” But my educated guess is that it, whatever “it” is, will survive.
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Mexican and Japanese Flavors Combine in Mexico's Hottest New Eating places
http://tinyurl.com/yy695tat Seats on the sushi bar of Misaki, newly opened in Los Cabos, look out from simply excessive sufficient of an angle that the blond wooden of the window frames solely the ombré of blues, from limitless sea assembly clear blue sky. Wanting down on the desk, a sampler of tuna sashimi echoes the coastal ombré—this time in shades of pink, presenting the jewel-toned akami, the marginally fattier minimize of chutoro, and the pale pink of the meltingly tender and much-coveted stomach referred to as toro. The meals—and the service and setting inside—evoke that of the highest-end sushi eating places world wide. However many of the seafood and the views of the Pacific Ocean function the very best of Mexico. The enmeshing of Japanese culinary traditions with Mexican ingredients introduced restaurateur Edo López acclaim in Mexico City, the place he all however owns a nook of Cuauhtémoc now generally known as Little Tokyo. López’s restaurant group, Edo Kobayashi, is known as after his mom’s maiden title; his grandfather fled to Mexico throughout World Struggle II. Thus, the Tijuana native marries his Japanese heritage together with his native nation’s elements, beginning together with his first restaurant, Rokai, which serves a sushi menu and omakase, just like what Misaki presents. Totoaba, practically fished into extinction in the course of the late 20th century, is a big drum fish endemic to the area and has since been efficiently farmed once more. Misaki However there’s additionally the Japanese whisky bar (Tokyo Music Bar), a pure wine and bar-food stand-up-only spot (Le Tachinomi Desu), and extra—together with ramen, yakitori, espresso, pizza, and different assorted partnerships—that convey López’s Japanese-Mexican affect to San Diego, Miami, and New York Metropolis. Now, López brings his experience to the Pacific coast, putting in a restaurant mere ft from the ocean, in a spot the place seafood has at all times held courtroom as king, however sushi has not. López’s eating places are as sharp and exact because the knives Kazuki Takubo, Misaki’s chef, makes use of to slice fish. That continues to be true right here, at his newest, perched atop the Solaz resort complicated. “We convey essentially the most Japanese expertise we are able to,” explains a server. “The identical glasses, plates, and methods in case you went to Japan.” However there are slight variations within the elements, and people are the locations the place Misaki turns into most poignant on the drinks menu: within the coriander and nopal (cactus paddle) cocktail with gin, tonic, and cilantro; and within the Mexican sake, which comes from an organization simply throughout the Gulf of California within the state of Sinaloa that additionally brews the rice lager beer Haiku. A lot of the fish comes from Ensenada, up north on the Baja Peninsula, and simply south of López’s hometown: It arrives unmarred, immaculate, and recent, able to be coddled by the cooks. On the sushi bar and tables in the principle room, the à la carte menu presents traditional izakaya-style starters like gyoza, Japanese fried hen, and tempura. The distinction is within the elements and execution: The Pacific shrimp encased within the tempura stay ebullient with brightness by means of the frying; and the recent child corn—a far cry from the canned model seen within the U.S.—alludes to Mexico’s most sacred ingredient. Donburi, or rice bowls, are essentially the most reasonably priced choices, beginning at about $17 for a tempura bowl, with a chirashi (assorted fish over rice) coming in at about $30. Pacific shrimp encased in tempura. Misaki Although the restaurant’s costs mirror the care put into the meal, the ability of the cooks, and the luxurious resort location, they nonetheless fall considerably beneath what you’d see at comparable New York Metropolis or Los Angeles eating places. Rolls begin at $3, nigiri at $5. However the true deal with comes from indulging within the luxurious of the total omakase menu, accessible solely within the six-seat again room. Operating from $120 to $150 per particular person, relying on what the chef’s whims are that night time and which fish is recent, it sticks near the traditional edo-style of sushi, providing a parade of distinctive, pristine items of nigiri, subtly nudged with taste and handed straight over-the-counter by the chef. Behind the sushi bar, the chef makes use of round motions to grate sushi’s personal sacred ingredient: wasabi. The standard sharkskin grater makes fast work of the Japanese root—the consequence milder, sweeter, and extra complicated than the paste seen at lesser retailers; there’s no burning or nostril-clearing feeling. Served alongside sea bass with yuzu kosho (a mixture of Japanese citrus and peppers) or accompanying a little bit of akami brushed with a soy-sauce-ginger-garlic combine, it offers a tiny enhance of warmth. The fish served are principally acquainted to sushi fanatics, with a couple of exceptions, most notably totoaba. After it was practically fished into extinction within the late 20th century (prized in Mexico for the flavour of its meat and in China for its swim bladder), the big drum fish endemic to the area has since been efficiently farmed. Served with a contact of white soy sauce and salt, it’s vaguely paying homage to the ocean bass served simply earlier than it, however is extra tender, refined, and complicated—a deal with for seasoned sushi eaters on the lookout for a brand new style. Even acquainted fish are available intriguing and revolutionary methods—just like the kampachi topped with a pesto of spring onion and ginger. An eel and foie gras hand roll topped with shaved truffles. Misaki The omakase is a meandering, charming exploration of Baja seafood by means of Japanese culinary eyes, with only a few deviations (the salmon, for instance, comes from New Zealand). And whereas the grand finale won’t have as a lot to do with the higher location of Baja, nothing screams indulgent sushi meal at a luxurious resort in fairly the identical vogue as an eel and foie gras hand roll topped with shaved truffles. 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