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[PODCAST #5DC]🎧🎙️ C'est déjà la 200e émission ! Pour fêter ça, on s'attaque aux premières pierres d'un monument : Phantom Blood ▶️ https://Bit.ly/5DCdanny ◀️ Ensemble on se (re)plonge sur les 5 premiers volumes de la saga de Araki, Jojo's Bizarre Adventure. ⚠️Presque sans spoil. https://www.instagram.com/p/Cmda_mZDdn_/?igshid=NGJjMDIxMWI=
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RA Power Solutions is the only company in the asian continent providing onsite crankshaft repair for the smaller crankpin width of even 40 mm. For further details, you may contact us on [email protected] or [email protected], or call us at +91 9582647131 or +91 9810012383.
#crankshaft grinding of Daihatsu 5DC-17 engine#grinding of DAIHATSU 5DC-17 engine crankpin#crankshaft repair of DAIHATSU 5DC-17 engine#damaged crankshaft of DAIHATSU 5DC-17 engine#Crankshaft of Daihatsu 5DC-17 Repair#crankshaft repair#Crankshaft of DAIHATSU 5DC-17 Engine
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Revitalize your Daihatsu 5DC-17 engine with precision crankshaft repair by RA Power Solutions! Our expert technicians employ cutting-edge techniques to restore optimal performance, ensuring longevity and efficiency. Don't compromise on quality – trust the industry leaders. Contact us now at +91 9582647131 or email us at inforapowersolutions.com. Experience the power of excellence with RA Power Solutions!
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Availability of Undersize Bearings and Crankshaft Repair for the Daihatsu 5DC-17
For the purpose of repair of crankshaft and grinding crankpins, we have particularly developed and specialized onsite crankshaft grinding equipment that may be inserted through the engine block window. There is no requirement that the crankshaft be removed from the block and sent to a shop for Crankshaft Repair of Daihatsu 5DC-17. The undersized bearings that RA Power Solutions keeps on hand are needed right after grinding. For more information, contact us for crankshaft repair, crankshaft grinding and metal stitching at [email protected], 0124-425-1615, or +91-9810012383.
#Repair of Daihatsu 5DC-17#Crankshaft Repair of Daihatsu#crankshaft grinding services#crankshaft grinding and repair#crankshaft repair machine
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We are giving below the details of a few engines and their model crankshaft which we have been repairing regularly all over the world successfully. For further information on repair of all crankshaft engines, email [email protected] or [email protected] at +91-9582647131, 0124-4251615.
#onsite crankshaft grinding#MAN 9 ASL 25/30 Crankpin#Crankshaft Grinding of Daihatsu 5DC-17 Engine#Wartsila Engine 8L32 Crankshaft#Grinding & polishing of crankpin of Wartsila Engine model 8L32#Grinding & polishing of crankpin#crankpin of Wartsila Engine#Deutz MWM TBG632V16 Crankpin#Yanmar 8N280L Crankshaft#crank pin grinding repair#grinding and polishing of crankshaft#Crankshaft Repair of B&W#crankshaft repair services onsite#crankshaft grinding and crankshaft polishing
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Contact RA Power Solutions for undertaking the crankshaft grinding of Daihatsu 5DC-17 and all models without removing the crankshaft from the block. For more details on the Repair of engine please email us at [email protected] or Call +91-9582647131,+91 9810012383.
#repair of crankpin of daihatsu dc-17#repair of Daihatsu DC-17 Crankshaft#crankshaft grinding of Daihatsu 5DC-17#Repair of engine#Crankpin of Daihatsu DC-17 Engine Crankshaft#on-site crankshaft repairs#Crankshaft of Daihatsu DC-17#Machining of crankshaft of Daihatsu DC-17#crank pin grinding and polishing#grinding and polishing of Daihatsu DC-17#crankshaft of Daihatsu DC 17 crankpin#Crankshaft Grinding of Daihatsu DC-17 Engine
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Wolfkiller cloak amigurumi pattern
I promised this one and it's about time I posted it.
Start with red yarn, same weight as the yarn used to make the doll (I typically use worsted weight yarn, and for this project I used a 2.75mm hook.
ch 33 1 - 32 sc 2 - 5 bpsc, turn, 5 dc on the furthest set of loops, turn, 5dc on the other set of loops, 7 dcinc, 8 dc, 7 dcinc, 5fpsc, turn, 5sc on nearst set of loops, sl st to last dc, turn, ch1, 5 sc on furthest loops, 5dc on the other set of loops 3-4 - dc across 5 - 10dc, (1 dcinc, 5dc) x6, 1dcinc, 10dc 6-10 - 64 dc across 11 - 5dc, (1dcinc, 8dc)x6, 5dc 12-16 - 70dc 17 - (9dc, 1dcinc)x6, 10dc 18-26 - 76dc
Capelet:
Attach yarn on 8th loop of beginning chain, 16bpsc on first row, wrong side facing you. Row 1 - (1dc, 1dcinc)x8 (24) 2 - (2dc, 1dcinc) x 8 (32) 3 - 32dc 4 - (7dc, 1dcinc) x 4 5 - (8dc, 1dcinc) x 4 6 - (9dc, 1dcinc) x 4 7 - (10dc, 1dcinc) x 4 8 - (11dc, 1dcinc) x 4
Hood:
Attach yarn to first chain in starting chain, work on original chain Row 1 - 32 hdc 2 - FLO - 32dc 3 - BLO - 32dc Repeat rows 2 and 3 until the hood is 11 rows high. Sew or slip stitch the hood together at the top.
Fur lining:
Attach eyelash yarn to first hdc in the hood. Switch to a larger hook (at least 4.5mm if you started with 2.5 or 2.75mm). Eyelash yarn will not fluff properly if it is worked too tight, so it needs a bit of space. This is why you've been doing FLO and BLO on the hood. Attach eyelash yarn to first hdc. Every stitch you will work through exposed front loops as well as the eyelash stitch below it. Row 1 - (DC, ch 1) across Row 2-11 - (DC, ch1) across, working both the eyelash row beneath and the exposed front loops of the inner hood.
Fasten off, weave in ends. Attach ribbon to close if you prefer.
I took a video of how and where I work the eyelash stitches. The video is not great, but if you can’t see or have questions, ask.
Remember to gently comb the eyelash yarn out of where it's been tucked into the stitches to get everything all fluffy.
#iwtv#amc iwtv#interview with the vampire#iwtv amc#lestat de lioncourt#amigurumi#iwtv amigurumi#crochet#patterns and tutorials
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Fellow crocheter! I heard you mention dragon scale gloves, do you have a pattern by chance?
Oh man I wrote down the pattern so long ago I have it memorized lol. My notes say I originally found it from the Reservoir Fibers youtube channel, so it'd be this video here I think.
youtube
They use a pretty thin yarn held double and for some reason they show it with black yarn, which is a pretty bad visual aid. But you can look up "crocodile stitch fingerless gloves" and find other tutorials as well!
Basically it goes like this:
Start with a chain in a multiple of six, which determines the number of scales you will have per row (it will shrink slightly in size once you add the scales. My hand is roughly 7 scales around but I can squeeze into a 6 scale glove. Just make sure the starting chain fits comfortably around the base of your fingers) connect the chain with a slip stitch.
Two options for the foundation under the scales. Either do 2 double crochet (UK treble) in one chain, chain one, skip 2 chains and then do one double crochet in the third chain (and then reverse it, ch1, skip2, 2dc, repeat around) or you can do a V-stutch in place of the 2 doubles, which puts the chain 1 bit in between those 2 dc. Basically you just need a V shape alternating with a regular lone stitch and a chain space to keep things from getting too tight.
And then the tricky part is learning how to do the scales. 5dc around the vertical post of one side of a V, ch1, 5dc around the next post of the V, single crochet on the lone stitch in between the V stitches.
The tutorial recommends turning the glove inside out for every foundation row but this can be avoided by simply working it in the opposite direction from the scales.
Boy I hope I didn't just make that more confusing lol. When I make these gloves, I usually have 6 scale rows, then the thumb hole (which is made by skipping the last lone dc of the foundation and replacing it with 6 chains) and then 6 more scale rows to make it wrist length. To get the cuff a little more snug, just do 3dc in the middle of each scale and then 2dc between each scale to make it a multiple of 5 instead of 6.
If you need to, you can also add an extra scale right before the thumb row, and then shrink it back down after the thumb row, but that is a whole extra step that's usually not necessary!
I use sock weight yarn that's a blend of wool and nylon, but I have seen people make them out of much heavier thick acrylic before, if that's all you have access too. It just means the scales will be a lot thicker and the gloves will be heavier. If you're going to use cotton, make sure it's a soft kind and not the rough sort that's used for washcloths.
(Image description: me, wearing dark multicolored wrist length fingerless gloves with a scaly texture, and making a heart shape with my hands. End description)
#crochet#the more dragon gloves are in the world the happier we will all be#this is the number one most popular thing my friends and family ask me to make lol
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Macaw
Written Instructions Below
Body
Round 1: Using red yarn, 6dc in an adjustable ring (6 sts)
Round 2: 2dc in each st (12 sts)
Round 3: *2 dc in next st, 1 dc* six times (18 sts)
Rounds 4-8: 1 dc in each st (18 sts)
Round 9: *dc2tog, 1dc* six times (12 sts)
-Stuff with toy filling
-Fasten off, leaving an end for sewing.
Eye Base (Make 2)
Round 1: using white yarn, 5dc in an adjustable ring (5 sts)
Round 2: 2dc in each st (10 sts)
-Fasten off, leaving an end for sewing.
Head
Round 1: Using red yarn, 6 dc in an adjustable ring (6 sts)
Round 2: 2 dc in each stitch (12 sts)
Round 3: *2 dc in next st, 1 dc* six times (18 sts)
Round 4: *2 dc in next st, 2 dc* six times (24 sts)
Rounds 5-6: 1 dc in each stitch (24 sts)
Round 7: *2 dc in next st, 3 dc* six times (30 sts)
Round 8-9: 1 dc in each stitch (30 sts)
Round 10: *dc2tog* six times (6 sts)
Round 11: *dc2tog, 2 dc* six times (18 sts)
Round 12: *dc2tog, 1 dc* six times (12 sts)
Round 13: *dc2tog* six times (6 sts)
-Insert eyes into the center of the eye bases and then between rounds 7 and 8, with 6 sts in between
-Sew the eye bases to the head, then the head to the body
Beak
Round 1: using beige yarn, 4 dc in an adjustable ring (4 sts)
Round 2: *2dc in next st, 1dc* twice (6 sts)
Round 3: *2dc in next st, 2dc* twice (8 sts)
Round 4: 1dc in each st (8 sts)
-Fasten off, leaving an end for sewing
-Do not stuff beak, press flat and sew on between eyes
Foot (Make 2)
Round 1: using black yarn, 5dc in an adjustable ring, 1 sl st in first st (5sts)
Round 2: *2ch, 1dc and 1 sl st in same st* three times (12 sts)
-Fasten off, leaving an end for sewing
-Sew feet to underside of body
Wing (Make 2)
Round 1: Using pale blue yarn, 6 dc in an adjustable ring (6 sts)
Round 2: *2 dc in next st, 2 dc* twice (8 sts)
Round 3 and 4: Using yellow yarn, 1 dc in each st (8 sts)
Round 5: Using red yarn, 1 dc in each st (8 sts)
-Fasten off, leaving an end for sewing
-Sew wings to sides of body
Tail
-Using red yarn, make 4 ch, then start in the second chain from the hook
Round 1: 2 dc, 2 dc in next st, continue on the other side of the chain, 1dc, 1 dc in first st (6 sts)
Rounds 2-5: 1 dc in each st (6 sts)
-Fasten off, leaving an end for sewing
-Do not stuff the tail, press flat and sew to rear of body
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"I was wondering if you...would...help me kill someone."
Character Name: Dr. Annie Walker
Fandom: Realms of Peril & Glory: Liminal London [Podcast]
Played By: Shamani Bundell
Yarn Used: Dress/Shoes/Hair: Loops & Threads Soft Classic - Black Skin: CraftSmart Value - White Lips: CraftSmart Value - Tomato
Basic pattern here.
I have yet to hear Shamani voice a character I didn’t want to hug at least a little bit, and Annie is no exception.I have yet to hear Shamani voice a character I didn’t want to hug at least a little bit, and Annie is no exception. She's just been through so much and she doesn't deserve any of it, and every time it looks like she's going to get at least something approximating a happy ending...ugh. At least she got one dance and one kiss, right?
Annie went WAY off the beaten path, and deviates from the standard pattern as follows:
Dress: Okay, this was actually a lot of fun. For the first time, I did the skirt part first! I wanted it to be a kind of classy, elegant ballgown of the sort that Annie’s goth little heart would thrill to and Chantal’s innate fashion sense would approve of, so I used a shell stitch. The pattern is as follows:
Skirt: Ch 79. R1: Sc in second ch from hook, [skip next 2 ch, 5 dc in next ch, skip next 2 ch, sc in next ch] 12 times, skip next 2 ch, 5dc in next ch, skip next 2 ch, join to first sc (13 sc, 65 dc). R2: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), 4 dc in same st, [skip next 2 st, sc in middle dc of shell, skip next 2 st, 5 dc in next sc] 12 times, skip next 2 st, sc in middle dc of shell, skip next 2 st, sl st in third ch (13 sc, 65 dc). R3: Ch 2, [hdc in next 11 st, inv dec] 6 times, sl st in first hdc (72 hdc). R4: Ch 1, [sc in first st, skip next 2 st, 5 dc in next st, skip next 2 st] 12 times, sl st in first sc (12 sc, 60 dc). R5: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), 4 dc in same st, [skip next 2 st, sc in middle dc of shell, skip next 2 st, 5 dc in next sc] 11 times, skip next 2 st, sc in middle dc of shell, skip next 2 st, sl st in third ch (12 sc, 60 dc). R6: Ch 2, [hdc in next 10 st, inv dec] 6 times, sl st in first hdc (66 hdc). R7: Ch 1, [sc in first st, skip next 2 st, 5 dc in next st, skip next 2 st] 11 times, sl st in first sc (11 sc, 55 dc). R5: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), 4 dc in same st, [skip next 2 st, sc in middle dc of shell, skip next 2 st, 5 dc in next sc] 10 times, skip next 2 st, sc in middle dc of shell, skip next 2 st, sl st in third ch (11 sc, 55 dc). R7: Ch 2, [hdc in next 9 st, inv dec] 6 times, sl st in first hdc (60 hdc). R8: Ch 1, [sc in first st, skip next 2 st, 5 dc in next st, skip next 2 st] 10 times, sl st in first sc (10 sc, 50 dc). R9: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), 4 dc in same st, [skip next 2 st, sc in middle dc of shell, skip next 2 st, 5 dc in next sc] 9 times, skip next 2 st, sc in middle dc of shell, skip next 2 st, sl st in third ch (10 sc, 50 dc). R10: Ch 2, [hdc in next 8 st, inv dec] 6 times, sl st in first hdc (54 hdc). R11: Ch 1, [sc in first st, skip next 2 st, 5 dc in next st, skip next 2 st] 9 times, sl st in first sc (9 sc, 45 dc). R12: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), 4 dc in same st, [skip next 2 st, sc in middle dc of shell, skip next 2 st, 5 dc in next sc] 8 times, skip next 2 st, sc in middle dc of shell, skip next 2 st, sl st in third ch (9 sc, 45 dc). R13: Ch 2, [hdc in next 7 st, inv dec] 6 times, sl st in first hdc (48 hdc). R14: Ch 1, [sc in first st, skip next 2 st, 5 dc in next st, skip next 2 st] 8 times, sl st in first sc (8 sc, 40 dc). R15: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), 4 dc in same st, [skip next 2 st, sc in middle dc of shell, skip next 2 st, 5 dc in next sc] 7 times, skip next 2 st, sc in middle dc of shell, skip next 2 st, sl st in third ch (8 sc, 40 dc). R16: Ch 2, [hdc in next 6 st, inv dec] 6 times, sl st in first hdc (42 hdc). R17: Ch 1, [sc in first st, skip next 2 st, 5 dc in next st, skip next 2 st] 7 times, sl st in first sc (7 sc, 35 dc). R18: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), 4 dc in same st, [skip next 2 st, sc in middle dc of shell, skip next 2 st, 5 dc in next sc] 6 times, skip next 2 st, sc in middle dc of shell, skip next 2 st, sl st in third ch (7 sc, 35 dc). R19: Ch 2, [hdc in next 5 st, inv dec] 6 times, sl st in first hdc (36 hdc). R20: Ch 1, [sc in first st, skip next 2 st, 5 dc in next st, skip next 2 st] 6 times, sl st in first sc (6 sc, 30 dc). R21: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), 4 dc in same st, [skip next 2 st, sc in middle dc of shell, skip next 2 st, 5 dc in next sc] 5 times, skip next 2 st, sc in middle dc of shell, skip next 2 st, sl st in third ch (6 sc, 30 dc). R22: Ch 2, hdc in front loop of each st around, sl st in first hdc (36 hdc). R23: Ch 1, sc in back loop of each st around, sl st in first sc (36 sc).
Bodice: I picked up the pattern as if R23 was R42 at that point and mostly continued as normal. I did try to give her a sweetheart neckline, though, so when I got to a point where I judged the plunge of the collar would come in, I switched to the skin color, did 3 sc in back loops, switched back to the dress color, 1 sc, back to skin, 3 sc in back loops, and resume dress color for remainder of round. The next round I just did expanded the stretch of skin by one stitch on either side and continued to do so until I reached the natural end of the dress.
When I reached the neck, I actually stuffed her from the bottom up. I then sewed on a base that was, essentially, your basic circle with a ripple effect on the outer rim because I had hoped it would make the skirt appear to billow. I don’t think it worked exactly the way I intended, but it works well enough.
And speaking of things that didn’t work exactly the way I intended but worked well enough…
…I put a magnet in Annie’s right shoulder blade, so she and Declan can share a dance in the closest approximation of proper ballroom frame that can be achieved through half-remembered long-ago lessons and a single YouTube video tutorial.
Head: I did what I did with Alice and stitched Annie’s scalp in her hair color, then used the loop method to attach hair all around her hairline. Once I had done that, I experimented with gathering it into a bun but settled for a high ponytail because it wasn’t quite long enough. I tried to give her a little bit of blood trickling out of the corner of her mouth, too. And the eyes…red (well, dark pink) just seemed too clichéed, so I went with gold.
Arms: You know those frilly off-the-shoulder sleeves you see on fantasy ball gowns? That’s what I was going for here. I did the arms in the skin color all the way up, but I did the round next from last in front loops only and the last one in back loops only. I then joined the dress yarn to the front loops of that round, sc in each loop around, joined, and then did two shells, one on either side…more or less.
#crocheting#blorbo from my shows#dr annie walker#realms of peril & glory#liminal london#declan buchanan
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[PODCAST #5DC]🎧🎙️ Alors que le froid s'intensifie et que la nuit tombe chaque jour un peu plus tôt, on a décidé de se consacrer aux étoiles. ▶️ https://Bit.ly/5DCsilence ◀️ À travers 5 mangas qui touchent à l'espace de façon + ou - réaliste, on s'interroge sur le rôle qu'il occupe. https://www.instagram.com/p/CmJbp5fjqYz/?igshid=NGJjMDIxMWI=
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(not like serious negative or anything LMAO just noticing things)
man. ha11111zbin really does like. live rent free in ha---zbin hatedom-folks heads huh
like I look at tweets about TA-/DC and there's just randos making random comparisons to ha---1zbin for like. basically no reason. no one was talking about it compared to h---2azbin positively or negatively it was a tweet about TA---5DC itself by itself.
how in the world can one be happy thinking about something they hate all the time to the point of needing to bring it up in response to other unrelated things. like. mates. touch grass. like I understand hating something and wanting to ramble about it for a bit esp to friends but if you're this hate-obsessed you genuinely might. like. need to take a breather.
you genuinely do not need to make everything about h=---4azbin to shit on hazbi---4n. it's okay. relax.
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Daihatsu Auxiliary Engine 5DC-17 Crankshaft Inspection
RA Power Solutions is a leading provider of onsite crankshaft repair services. The company has a team of experienced technicians and a wide range of equipment, which allows them to repair crankshafts of all sizes and types. RA Power Solutions is committed to providing its customers with the best possible service, and the successful repair of the Daihatsu 5DC-17 crankshaft in the Suez Canal is a testament to their expertise and dedication. Get more details and know more about crankpin of Daihatsu 5DC-17 and the repair of crankshaft of Daihatsu 5DC-17 by contacting us at [email protected], 0124-425-1615, or +91-9810012383.
#crankshaft grinding#Daihatsu 5DC-17 crankshaft#crankpin of Daihatsu 5DC-17#repair of crankshaft of Daihatsu 5DC-17
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Thanks to @floating-through-everyday for recommending I try this tutorial for my second crochet project. The results are in:
I'm quite proud of it! My goals were:
Finish the remaining yarn from my first crochet project. ✅
Have a set pattern for a long period. (Compared to the doily where things changed frequently) ✅
Practice maintaining consistent tension? 🤷
Learnings:
Having a set pattern for a long period is fun. You get into a flow state and it makes it easy to crochet on public transit or in a chatting group.
I like crocheting best when I'm multitasking-- listening to a podcast or on public transit or something. Having a set pattern is boring if it's the only thing you're doing.
I like having both video & written instructions. Video tutorials are great because you can scrutinize how to do something easily. But once you get past the learning phase, you need a written tutorial when you need to quickly check "is it 3dc or 5dc?".
Having a useful goal is motivating. With this, my goal was to use up the thread. I thought it would let me quit midway if I got bored. And it would let me perfect my skills instead of worrying about messing up a large complex piece. I stand by this choice intellectually. Though I'm not sure I got that much better by the end? You'll notice my edges are all curly compared to the tutorial. Anyway, once I got the hang of the pattern, I started thinking "what am I doing this for? What will this be used for?". You pour too much time and energy into these things to want a useless strip of lace at the end.
For my next project...I think I'm ready for some kind of attire? Maybe a vest or something? Something beginner-friendly that is still useful. Or a little toy I can give as a gift ���. Lmk if folks have suggestions!
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Crankpin Repair of Daihatsu Engine Model No. 5DC-17
We have completed the repair of more than a hundred Daihatsu 5DC-17 crankshafts for prestigious shipping firms throughout the world. When two of its auxiliary engines with Daihatsu 5DC-17 engines were involved in a serious accident, a corporation with headquarters in the United Arab Emirates contacted us. A 0.5 mm and 1.0 mm crankpin undersize bearing for a Daihatsu 5DC-17 was provided. Send us an email at [email protected] or give us a call at +91-9582647131 or +91 9810012383 for more information on crank pin grinding repair, and Daihatsu engine crankpin.
#Daihatsu 5DC-17 crankshafts#Daihatsu engine crankpin#crank pin grinding repair#Daihatsu 5DC-17 engines#bearing for daihatsu#daihatsu engine repair service#repair of daihatsu#daihatsu 5DC-17#crankpin of Daihatsu engine#Crankpin Repair of Daihatsu Engine#Daihatsu Engine Model No. 5DC-17#Repair of Daihatsu Engine Model No. 5DC-17#auxiliary engines#grinding of crankshaft Daihatsu engine
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Companies offering onsite crankshaft repair services situated in Europe, the United States, the United Arab Emirates, etc. do not have the equipment that is small and portable enough for grinding crankshafts with small bearing widths and diameters. We have successfully repaired all Auxiliary Engines like Yanmar, Daihatsu Engine, MAK engine, Caterpillar engine, etc. Email on [email protected] for more updates on Yanmar S185L Crankpin Polishing, Caterpillar engine 3416B repair, Grinding of Daihatsu 5DC-17 Engine, Onsite Grinding of Yanmar 6M220L-SN, and Grinding of Daihatsu 5DC-17 Engine.
#Crankshaft of MAN 6L 23/30 Grinding#Grinding of Daihatsu 5DC-17 Engine#Crankshaft of Daihatsu 6DLB-19#Yanmar S185L Crankpin Polishing#Caterpillar engine 3416B repair#Onsite Grinding of Yanmar 6M220L-SN#Crankpin of Daihatsu Engine 5DK-20#Crankpin of Daihatsu Engine 5DK-20 grinding#Crankshaft Machining of YANMAR 6N18AL-DV#Crankshaft Machining of YANMAR 6N18AL-DV on vessel#Engine of STX MAN B&W 5L 16/24 Crank Pin grinding#Caterpillar 3500B Crankshaft Grinding#Daihatsu 5DK-20 Aux engine Crankshaft Repair#Onsite crankshaft grinding Daihatsu DS-18#Onsite Crankshaft Grinding MAK M331 AK#Yanmar Engine M220 Grinding and Polishing On site#Wartsila 12V32 Crankshaft Repair#Yanmar 6M220L-SN Crankshaft Grinding and Repair#Daihatsu Engine DS-18 Crankshaft Grinding And Polshing#Engine of MAK 426 Crankshaft Repair#Repair of Daihatsu 6DL-16 Crankpin
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