#5dc

[upthespiralstaircase]

_MG_5217-67 by Ken Gilbert Via Flickr: 1/180 sec, mm (), 3200, Aperture priority, no flash, on Canon EOS 5D

[metalstitchinglocking]

RA Power Solutions is the only company in the asian continent providing onsite crankshaft repair for the smaller crankpin width of even 40 mm. For further details, you may contact us on rajshahani@rapowersolutions.com or info@rapowersolutions.com, or call us at +91 9582647131 or  +91 9810012383.

[rebabbittingbearings]

Revitalize your Daihatsu 5DC-17 engine with precision crankshaft repair by RA Power Solutions! Our expert technicians employ cutting-edge techniques to restore optimal performance, ensuring longevity and efficiency. Don't compromise on quality – trust the industry leaders. Contact us now at +91 9582647131 or email us at inforapowersolutions.com. Experience the power of excellence with RA Power Solutions!

[vaishalirapower]

Availability of Undersize Bearings and Crankshaft Repair for the Daihatsu 5DC-17

For the purpose of repair of crankshaft and grinding crankpins, we have particularly developed and specialized onsite crankshaft grinding equipment that may be inserted through the engine block window. There is no requirement that the crankshaft be removed from the block and sent to a shop for Crankshaft Repair of Daihatsu 5DC-17. The undersized bearings that RA Power Solutions keeps on hand are needed right after grinding. For more information, contact us for crankshaft repair, crankshaft grinding and metal stitching at info@rapowersolutions.com, 0124-425-1615, or +91-9810012383.

[crankshaftgrindingrepair]

We are giving below the details of a few engines and their model crankshaft which we have been repairing regularly all over the world successfully. For further information on repair of all crankshaft engines, email raj.shahani@rapowersolutions.com or info@rapowersolutions.com at +91-9582647131, 0124-4251615.

[engineoverhaulingservices]

Contact RA Power Solutions for undertaking the crankshaft grinding of Daihatsu 5DC-17 and all models without removing the crankshaft from the block.  For more details on the Repair of engine please email us at info@rapowersolutions.com or Call +91-9582647131,+91 9810012383.

[morb-untamed]

How I made little Haarlep

A few days ago I posted about my latest finished crochet project for my good friend @tavyliasin, and I wanted to share how I made them! This is for people who would also like to make a little Haarlep (Raphael, Karlach, or any other character with horns for that matter), those who are curious how I did it, and I just love to yap about my projects. When I started this project I had only been crocheting for about 8 months, and it really pushed me to step out of my comfort zone, try new things, and learn a whole lot. I took the time to explore, experiment, and try again if needed. And man, did I learn from little Haarlep.

Note that this isn't a tutorial; I have made mistakes, oversights, and stumbled against problems. I will try my best to list these here, but if you have any questions about the listed patterns I advise you to head over to the linked etsy store to ask the creator of said pattern. But if you have any questions specifically regarding this project I'll try my best to answer them as best as I can. There are also some parts of little Haarlep where I didn't use a pattern at all, and either freehanded it, or did a load of guesswork.

Now, let's get started!

Used patterns:

Body: Doll base Amigurumi Body Version 3 by TheLoftyLoop

Wings: Kawaii Bat by ZeroGravityCrochet (I have also used this pattern for my Batstarion plushie)

Horns: Horns (3 sizes) by KnottedLovebymima

Used Materials:

Body: Katia Bambi #312 (3x)

Hair: Twister Solid XL Black #105 (1x)

I had bought the yarn for the hair and horns in a local yarn shop, and have thrown away the labels a long time ago. Once I have found them again I will list them here as well.

Polymer stuffing

PLA filament (optional)

Small chains which were part of a jewelry repair kit.

Soft silver RVS rings, 1,5 x 7,0 millimeters

Epoxy Resin (optional)

Gold and orange pigment powder

Gold glitter

Red embroidery thread

Used tools:

Crochet needles (3,0 millimeters and 3,5 millimeters)

Knitting markers

Yarn scissor

Yarn needles

Row counter (optional although it literally saved my life)

3d printer (Optional)

Silicone half circle mold

Pliers (x2)

Cutting pliers

Mini hand drill

Instant glue

Tweezers (optional)

Step-by-step guide:

First, I needed to know what the hells I was getting myself into. For that I have used several references on Haarlep. I have used these as a guidelines for the entirety of the project. The screenshots have been provided by @tavyliasin.

Then, I made a list every single part of the doll I needed to make.

Body

Tail

Wings

Horns

Ears

Eyes

Face

Harness

Hair

The body

For the body I have used the 3,5 millimeter crochet needle because I wanted the stitches to be as tight as I could. I had ignored the advised crochet hook size on the label of the yarn because of this. Although I quickly found out that the yarn itself was too large for this pattern as well, resulting in the doll becoming bigger and longer than I initially expected. But this is not necessarily a mistake because that would mean that there would be more to cuddle!

The head ended up being way too long though, so after I finished the body I folded the part of the head that was too long and stitched it on the back of the head.

The Tail

I didn't use a pattern for the tail, instead I made a magic ring with 6 single crochet stitches, and increased the stitch each time I felt like I should make the tail wider. For this I also used the 3,5 mm needle.

The wings

I used my trusty 3,5mm needle for this part as well. I already had a pattern for a bat plushie, which I had used to make the wings. From there I diverged from the pattern, and created a bigger 'spiral' so to speak by adding 3 more rounds.

If you are using this pattern, I diverged from the guide from row 5:

r5.1: 5dc, inc.

r5.2: 6dc, inc.

r5.3: 6dc, inc.

After that I followed the pattern again, and diverted from it once more to add more single crochet stitches to each 'spike' of the wings, making them more bulky and longer.

The ears

I also didn't follow any pattern for the ears, I just made a triangle of single crochets (again, with my 3,5mm needle), and stitched the points of the ears to one another to make them more pointy and give them more depth. Then I attached them on the side of the head with *only* the base of the triangles. This is because I was going to add the hair and horns later on, and I didn't want the ears to get in the way of them.

The eyes.

I worked with resin before, and still had some. I mixed a small amount of epoxy resin with gold and orange pigment powder, and golden glitters. I poured it in a half circle silicone mold I have with various sizes. After it had cured I tested which size I liked the most for the doll, and used those for the eyes.

Next was the application, glueing the eyes directly on the head would be a surefire way for them to detach in the near future. So at first I tried to use these screw eyes by hanging them over the mold as the resin cured, so I could simply sew them in. But that didn't work as the resin swallowed the entirety of the screw, and the thread I hung them over the mold with. The 'eyes' were still semi-transparent even though I used a lot of pigment, so I could easily see the ends of the screws inside the eyes. So this was a failure.

On my second try I didn't mess with the resin as it cured at all, and used even more pigment powder just to be sure it wouldn't be transparent. This time, I used a small hand-drill to create 2 holes on each side of the half-circle, as close to the edge as I could. Then I drilled another 2 holes on the flat side where the end of the first 2 holes ended, making a little tunnel. I took some tweezers and stuffed and pulled the thread through the tunnels until I could pull it through. I tied them on each end, and superglued the knots for extra security.

Once everything was dry I sew the eyes directly on the spots I wanted them to be. But I wasn't too happy with the result, in all honesty...

... So I gave Haarlep some eyelids. Sure, they still look quite bug-eyed, but I decided to trust the process.

The horns (and a nose!)

I had completely forgotten to photograph any of my progress from when I was done with the eyes t'ill the horns were already finished. I had also decided to give Haarlep a little nose (which I made out of a magic circle with 10 single crochets, 2 rows of increases, and 3 rows of decreases).

In the original pattern there are 3 sizes available, and I used size 1 and 2 for the horns on this doll. The yarn I used for this was quite thin, but I made the mistake to use the 3,5 mm needle *again*. Which is why I could see directly through all the stitches, and see all the polymer filling within. I admit that the horns were about my least favourite part of this project, and I was struggling to get through them (no hate to the creator of the pattern at all, as it was a very well-written pattern! I just didn't enjoy making these because of some Morb-problems). So I was not ready to do it all over again. Instead, I noticed I had a lot of yarn I used for the horns left, so I used that as filling so the large holes in each stitch wouldn't be noticeable.

The Hair

Again, I forgot to take any pictures of this process, so I'll have to write down what I did. I used the Twister solid XL yarn for this.

First I gave Haarlep a much-needed hairline to map out where I wanted his hairdo to start and finish. For each 'strand' of hair I repeated one of 2 processes whether I wanted it to curl or not.

(fun fact, the 'curly' hairs are based on a very simple pattern a friend of mine created to make toys for her cat!)

Curls:

Chain (make it as long as you want depending on how long you want it to be, but for this project I used in between 8-15 chains per strand), single crochet in the 2nd chain stitch from the end of your chain. 3 single crochets in every chain (I did this for about 3-6 chain stitches). Than I did a bunch of single crochets in every chain until I reached the end of the chain. Then I put another single crochet in the 2nd chain, and put 1 single crochet per chain stitch until you reach the end, tie and cut your yarn on both ends. I kept about 15-20 centimeters of yarn on the end that's the furthest away from the curl so I could use that to sew the strand of hair directly onto the head.

You can also put 2 single crochets per chain, or more than 3 depending on how curly you want your strand of hair to be.

Straight strand:

Follow the same steps as the curls, but just keep adding single crochets per chain stitch after you've made your chain, and repeat this twice.

I then worked in layers when attaching each strand of hair onto the head, I added one or two rows of "hair" starting from the neckline. Once I sew in those strands I sew about 3-5 centimeters of hair directly onto the head (the point that's the furthest away from the curl/the part of the strand that's attached to the head). This is so if the hair on the doll moves it wouldn't go out of place, and you wouldn't see any bald spots. This way I also wouldn't have to make countless of strands and add too much hair.

I have no idea how I can explain this properly without pictures, so if anyone reading this really wants to know how I did it I'll recreate the steps mentioned above.

I also added some sideburns to give Haarlep's hair a bit more of a finished look. After I was completely done with the hair (checked that I had not left any bald spot unchecked) I attached their ears on their lower horns using a piece of the same yarn I have used for the body.

The Harness

This was arguably my favourite part of this entire project! I really enjoyed making this as I could use several types of materials into this. I wanted to make the harness without having to directly attach it to Haarlep's body, so that it could be tight enough for it to stay attached. Bit first I had to start with the basics.

The undies! I freehanded the underwear as well, which goes as follows:

I started with the front, and made a chain that reached the diameter of Haarlep's body. From there I worked down, adding a single crochet per chain stitch. And at each end of the row I made a decrease. I used knitting markers to attach the underwear on the body as I made it to get as much of an accurate fit as possible. I kept going until I reached the hind, which is where I had to "split" the underwear to accommodate the tail. At first I went to the left, making every row very small until it reached 3/4 of the top of the tail (while making sure it could reach the front side of the underwear). I then made a chain that went around the entire top of the tail, and kept going until I reached the other side of the underwear, and attached my chain on it. I did the same stitching as I did on the other side of the tail, except in reverse until I reached the rest of the underwear. From there I finished up the underwear by securing all sides of the underwear to each other using the same yarn so it would seamlessly fit across the doll's waist.

I have no idea how to write a comprehensive tutorial and/or a pattern. So again, if you don't understand how I did this from the text I wrote please send me a message. I'll draw how I did this instead, and edit it into this post.

Next was the harness itself. I used a chain with a double crochet per chain stitch, and measured the chain against the body as I made it. I started out from the middle (the back strap that divides on the shoulders, to the front of the chest where it splits. I made several different sizes of "straps", always making a pair. I then attached every strap on a chainmail ring (the soft silver RVS rings), and kind of worked my way from there. I opened each ring with 2 pliers, slid on the end of each strap in place, and closed the ring with the pliers again. This was very much a 'trust the process' type of work for me.

If I couldn't secure the strap just yet I held them in place with a knitting marker (see shoulders).

For the shoulder pads I only used a chain to make the straps that go under the arms, and almost followed the same steps as I did when creating the underwear. Start with a chain (except smaller, like 5 or 6 chain stitches), do a round of single crochets, decrease at the ends of the rows, a round of single crochets, etc. Until I got a tiny rounded triangle, which I attached to the shoulder chain.

Next, I wanted to create the spikes that go on top of the shoulder pads. At first I wanted to make the tiniest studs using some embroidery thread. But I recently acquired a 3d printer! And as I already was using metal in the harness, I wanted those studs to match.

So I created a simple design on Tinkercad.com using a simple cone, printed 10 of them (using a 0,25mm nozzle and neutral white PLA filament), and painted them silver. Then I figured that I could drill a little hole in it with the same small hand drill I used on the resin, but turns out that cured PLA filament is quite hard, and brittle at the same time. So I went back to Tinkercad, and designed a cone with a hole in it that would allow a larger needle to go through it. I made the cone 0,5x0,5 millimeters.

After that was done I painted them silver again. Below you also see the shoulder pads, which is the only picture I have of them before I attached them to the doll.

I used 5 studs per shoulder pad, and sewed them directly onto the pads with black thread. After I secured them with a tiny drop of instant glue so they wouldn't shift. I could've created another hole that ran opposite of the one already going through the cone, but I think that it would've made the integrity of the inner (teeny tiny) supports within the cone too vulnerable.

After that was done I attached the shoulder pads around the arms and the harness.

For the final touches I attached the small chains from the jewelry kit, mirroring the references I found. I simply opened them with the pliers, hooked them through a stitch in the harness, and closed them. I actually had run out of these chains, and literally dismantled a necklace as I wasn't going to wait around and buy another jewellery kit or a whole spool of necklace chains when I was so close to the end. And I'm glad I did, because my patience had run out after I had been working on little Haarlep since August 2024.

And with that, they were done!

As soon as I was done I made pictures, and sent Haarlep on their way to Lia along with some snacks and a few other bits and bops. This project was such a challenge, but very much a welcome one. I had started learning how to crochet in december 2023, and truly went out of my comfort zone, and learned so much about crocheting techniques, trusting the process, and Frankensteining several patterns into one.

If you have any questions regarding this project, or if I can clear up anything mentioned here I'd love to help to the best of my abilities! Other than that, thank you for reading this and following the journey of creating the most intricate and hardest crocheting project I have made so far. And it was a joy to make. But it will most likely not be the last one, and not the hardest as I have no plans of quitting crocheting anytime soon. Who knows I'll surprise myself with the next Baldur's Gate 3, or other fandom project I'll decide to undertake.

[spacemuffinz]

I have a new fav hat 😁

Kiwi strawberry is my fav sodapop lol.

Basic pattern:

I used a 5.5 hook, but u can tinker with the pattern as needed for ur size of yarn. And used a 3.5 for the "patches"

if u want a wider brim maybe chain 41 to start. And add more hdcs.

I used an "I love this yarn" green and a "redheart" pink. U can use whatever feels comfy.

The hat is: ch36, turn, skip one

[hdc x30, sc blo x5,

ch1, turn,

sc blo x5, hdc blo x30,

ch2, turn.]

Repeat for 20 rows per color.

Slipstitch edges closed.

Weave/sew the top shut.

The ears are: 5dc in a magic ring, (or the ch3 circle)

Sc x5.

Dc Inc x5.

Sc x10.

DC Inc x10.

Sc x20.

DC x3, DC Inc. 5x.

Sc x25.

*DC x25

*Sc x25

*x5

DC x3, dc dec, 5x.

Sc x20

Dc x2, dc dec, 5x.

Sc x15

Dc x1, dc dec, 5x.

Sc x10.

Dc x10

Sc x10

Dc x10

Sc x10

Hdc dec x5

Sew to back of hat. Add adornments. Experiment with safety pins and jump rings and beads and chains. Add pockets or flat designs like patches.

Comfyadorable

[thebackalleydealer]

Flamingo

Written Instructions Below

Head and Body

-Using pink yarn, work the head and body in one piece following the instructions for the peacock (Written Below)

-Work Head and Body in one piece from top down

Round 1: Using Dark blue yarn, 6dc in an adjustable ring (6sts)

Round 2: 2dc in each st (12sts)

Round 3: *2dc in next st, 1dc* six times (18sts)

Round 4-6: 1dc in each st (18sts)

Round 7: 3dc, *dc2tog* six times, 3dc (12sts)

-Insert the eyes between rounds 5 and 6, with 5 sts inbetween

-the decreases form the front of the head, so eyes should be positioned above the decreases

-Place a marker in the exact center of the front

Round 8: 4dc, *dc2tog* twice (one decrease on each side of marker), 4dc (10sts)

Rounds 9-11: 1dc in each st (10sts)

Round 12: place a marker in the center stitch of the back. This stitch is the start of the round. work 2dc in each st, 8dc, 2dc in next st (12sts)

Round 13: *2dc in next st* three times, 6dc *2dc in next st* twice (18sts)

Round 14: *2dc in next st* four times, 12dc, *2dc in next st* twice (24sts)

Round 15: Idc in each st (24sts)

Round 16: *2dc in next st* four times, 18dc, *2dc in next st* twice (30sts)

Round 17: Idc in each st (30sts)

Round 18: *dc2tog, 3dc*six times (24sts)

Round 19: *dc2tog, 2dc* six times (18sts)

-Stuff with toy filling

Round 20: -dc2tog* six times (6sts)

Legs

-Using grey yarn, work the legs following the instructions for the peacock (Copied below)

Round 1: 2slst in the chain, 3ch, 2slst in the new chain, 4slst further down the first chain

-Leave an end for sewing

-sew legs to underside of body

Beak

-Work the increases at the same point in each round

Round 1: using black yarn, work 3dc in an adjustable ring (3sts)

Round 2: 2dc in next st, 2dc (4sts)

Round 3: 2dc in next st, 3dc (5sts)

Round 4: using white yarn, work 2dc in next st, 4dc (6sts)

Round 5: 2dc in next st, 5dc (7sts)

Round 6: 1dc in each st (7sts)

-Fasten off, leaving an end for sewing

-Stuff the beak a little, if desired

-Sew on the beak between. the eyes

Wing (Make 2)

-Using pink yarn, make 10ch, then start in the second ch from the hook

Row 1: work as follows down one side of the chain: 3dc (forms the first wing feather) 1slst *4ch, starting in second ch from the hook, 3dc, 1dc in next st of the original chain* five times, continue along the other side of the ch, 1slst in next st, 1dc in next 5sts

-Fasten off, leaving an end for sewing

-Sew the wings to side of body

Full Book

[crochetedblorbos]

"I was wondering if you...would...help me kill someone."

Character Name: Dr. Annie Walker

Fandom: Realms of Peril & Glory: Liminal London [Podcast]

Played By: Shamani Bundell

Yarn Used: Dress/Shoes/Hair: Loops & Threads Soft Classic - Black Skin: CraftSmart Value - White Lips: CraftSmart Value - Tomato

Basic pattern here.

I have yet to hear Shamani voice a character I didn’t want to hug at least a little bit, and Annie is no exception.I have yet to hear Shamani voice a character I didn’t want to hug at least a little bit, and Annie is no exception. She's just been through so much and she doesn't deserve any of it, and every time it looks like she's going to get at least something approximating a happy ending...ugh. At least she got one dance and one kiss, right?

Annie went WAY off the beaten path, and deviates from the standard pattern as follows:

Dress: Okay, this was actually a lot of fun. For the first time, I did the skirt part first! I wanted it to be a kind of classy, elegant ballgown of the sort that Annie’s goth little heart would thrill to and Chantal’s innate fashion sense would approve of, so I used a shell stitch. The pattern is as follows:

Skirt: Ch 79. R1: Sc in second ch from hook, [skip next 2 ch, 5 dc in next ch, skip next 2 ch, sc in next ch] 12 times, skip next 2 ch, 5dc in next ch, skip next 2 ch, join to first sc (13 sc, 65 dc). R2: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), 4 dc in same st, [skip next 2 st, sc in middle dc of shell, skip next 2 st, 5 dc in next sc] 12 times, skip next 2 st, sc in middle dc of shell, skip next 2 st, sl st in third ch (13 sc, 65 dc). R3: Ch 2, [hdc in next 11 st, inv dec] 6 times, sl st in first hdc (72 hdc). R4: Ch 1, [sc in first st, skip next 2 st, 5 dc in next st, skip next 2 st] 12 times, sl st in first sc (12 sc, 60 dc). R5: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), 4 dc in same st, [skip next 2 st, sc in middle dc of shell, skip next 2 st, 5 dc in next sc] 11 times, skip next 2 st, sc in middle dc of shell, skip next 2 st, sl st in third ch (12 sc, 60 dc). R6: Ch 2, [hdc in next 10 st, inv dec] 6 times, sl st in first hdc (66 hdc). R7: Ch 1, [sc in first st, skip next 2 st, 5 dc in next st, skip next 2 st] 11 times, sl st in first sc (11 sc, 55 dc). R5: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), 4 dc in same st, [skip next 2 st, sc in middle dc of shell, skip next 2 st, 5 dc in next sc] 10 times, skip next 2 st, sc in middle dc of shell, skip next 2 st, sl st in third ch (11 sc, 55 dc). R7: Ch 2, [hdc in next 9 st, inv dec] 6 times, sl st in first hdc (60 hdc). R8: Ch 1, [sc in first st, skip next 2 st, 5 dc in next st, skip next 2 st] 10 times, sl st in first sc (10 sc, 50 dc). R9: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), 4 dc in same st, [skip next 2 st, sc in middle dc of shell, skip next 2 st, 5 dc in next sc] 9 times, skip next 2 st, sc in middle dc of shell, skip next 2 st, sl st in third ch (10 sc, 50 dc). R10: Ch 2, [hdc in next 8 st, inv dec] 6 times, sl st in first hdc (54 hdc). R11: Ch 1, [sc in first st, skip next 2 st, 5 dc in next st, skip next 2 st] 9 times, sl st in first sc (9 sc, 45 dc). R12: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), 4 dc in same st, [skip next 2 st, sc in middle dc of shell, skip next 2 st, 5 dc in next sc] 8 times, skip next 2 st, sc in middle dc of shell, skip next 2 st, sl st in third ch (9 sc, 45 dc). R13: Ch 2, [hdc in next 7 st, inv dec] 6 times, sl st in first hdc (48 hdc). R14: Ch 1, [sc in first st, skip next 2 st, 5 dc in next st, skip next 2 st] 8 times, sl st in first sc (8 sc, 40 dc). R15: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), 4 dc in same st, [skip next 2 st, sc in middle dc of shell, skip next 2 st, 5 dc in next sc] 7 times, skip next 2 st, sc in middle dc of shell, skip next 2 st, sl st in third ch (8 sc, 40 dc). R16: Ch 2, [hdc in next 6 st, inv dec] 6 times, sl st in first hdc (42 hdc). R17: Ch 1, [sc in first st, skip next 2 st, 5 dc in next st, skip next 2 st] 7 times, sl st in first sc (7 sc, 35 dc). R18: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), 4 dc in same st, [skip next 2 st, sc in middle dc of shell, skip next 2 st, 5 dc in next sc] 6 times, skip next 2 st, sc in middle dc of shell, skip next 2 st, sl st in third ch (7 sc, 35 dc). R19: Ch 2, [hdc in next 5 st, inv dec] 6 times, sl st in first hdc (36 hdc). R20: Ch 1, [sc in first st, skip next 2 st, 5 dc in next st, skip next 2 st] 6 times, sl st in first sc (6 sc, 30 dc). R21: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), 4 dc in same st, [skip next 2 st, sc in middle dc of shell, skip next 2 st, 5 dc in next sc] 5 times, skip next 2 st, sc in middle dc of shell, skip next 2 st, sl st in third ch (6 sc, 30 dc). R22: Ch 2, hdc in front loop of each st around, sl st in first hdc (36 hdc). R23: Ch 1, sc in back loop of each st around, sl st in first sc (36 sc).

Bodice: I picked up the pattern as if R23 was R42 at that point and mostly continued as normal. I did try to give her a sweetheart neckline, though, so when I got to a point where I judged the plunge of the collar would come in, I switched to the skin color, did 3 sc in back loops, switched back to the dress color, 1 sc, back to skin, 3 sc in back loops, and resume dress color for remainder of round. The next round I just did expanded the stretch of skin by one stitch on either side and continued to do so until I reached the natural end of the dress.

When I reached the neck, I actually stuffed her from the bottom up. I then sewed on a base that was, essentially, your basic circle with a ripple effect on the outer rim because I had hoped it would make the skirt appear to billow. I don’t think it worked exactly the way I intended, but it works well enough.

And speaking of things that didn’t work exactly the way I intended but worked well enough…

…I put a magnet in Annie’s right shoulder blade, so she and Declan can share a dance in the closest approximation of proper ballroom frame that can be achieved through half-remembered long-ago lessons and a single YouTube video tutorial.

Head: I did what I did with Alice and stitched Annie’s scalp in her hair color, then used the loop method to attach hair all around her hairline. Once I had done that, I experimented with gathering it into a bun but settled for a high ponytail because it wasn’t quite long enough. I tried to give her a little bit of blood trickling out of the corner of her mouth, too. And the eyes…red (well, dark pink) just seemed too clichéed, so I went with gold.

Arms: You know those frilly off-the-shoulder sleeves you see on fantasy ball gowns? That’s what I was going for here. I did the arms in the skin color all the way up, but I did the round next from last in front loops only and the last one in back loops only. I then joined the dress yarn to the front loops of that round, sc in each loop around, joined, and then did two shells, one on either side…more or less.

[akuma-homura]

(not like serious negative or anything LMAO just noticing things)

man. ha11111zbin really does like. live rent free in ha---zbin hatedom-folks heads huh

like I look at tweets about TA-/DC and there's just randos making random comparisons to ha---1zbin for like. basically no reason. no one was talking about it compared to h---2azbin positively or negatively it was a tweet about TA---5DC itself by itself.

how in the world can one be happy thinking about something they hate all the time to the point of needing to bring it up in response to other unrelated things. like. mates. touch grass. like I understand hating something and wanting to ramble about it for a bit esp to friends but if you're this hate-obsessed you genuinely might. like. need to take a breather.

you genuinely do not need to make everything about h=---4azbin to shit on hazbi---4n. it's okay. relax.

[metalstitchinglocking]

Daihatsu Auxiliary Engine 5DC-17 Crankshaft Inspection 

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[worldiary]

Thanks to @floating-through-everyday for recommending I try this tutorial for my second crochet project. The results are in:

I'm quite proud of it! My goals were:

Finish the remaining yarn from my first crochet project. ✅

Have a set pattern for a long period. (Compared to the doily where things changed frequently) ✅

Practice maintaining consistent tension? 🤷

Learnings:

Having a set pattern for a long period is fun. You get into a flow state and it makes it easy to crochet on public transit or in a chatting group.

I like crocheting best when I'm multitasking-- listening to a podcast or on public transit or something. Having a set pattern is boring if it's the only thing you're doing.

I like having both video & written instructions. Video tutorials are great because you can scrutinize how to do something easily. But once you get past the learning phase, you need a written tutorial when you need to quickly check "is it 3dc or 5dc?".

Having a useful goal is motivating. With this, my goal was to use up the thread. I thought it would let me quit midway if I got bored. And it would let me perfect my skills instead of worrying about messing up a large complex piece. I stand by this choice intellectually. Though I'm not sure I got that much better by the end? You'll notice my edges are all curly compared to the tutorial. Anyway, once I got the hang of the pattern, I started thinking "what am I doing this for? What will this be used for?". You pour too much time and energy into these things to want a useless strip of lace at the end.

For my next project...I think I'm ready for some kind of attire? Maybe a vest or something? Something beginner-friendly that is still useful. Or a little toy I can give as a gift 🤔. Lmk if folks have suggestions!

[postsofbabel]

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[engineoverhaulingservices]

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[things-from-strings]

do you have/sell a pattern for your spiral hats? I can do two colour hats but yours are more spirally and less two lines of colour. do you have any tips on how to achieve that?

i'm not really a pattern writer..

that said, i can give u my notes for the crown of the hat; everything else is up to u to figure out tho

V = 2dc inc

6mm/J hook

Start, base-8: V+V around

V + 1dc

V + 2dc

V + 3dc

V + 4dc

V + 5dc

V + 6dc (stop inc here for S-M size)

V + 7dc (M-L size)

V + 8dc (L-XL size)

dc in each st around & around until hat is desired length

...that's all i got 🤷 good luck 👍