#5dc

[metalstitchinglocking]

RA Power Solutions is the only company in the asian continent providing onsite crankshaft repair for the smaller crankpin width of even 40 mm. For further details, you may contact us on rajshahani@rapowersolutions.com or info@rapowersolutions.com, or call us at +91 9582647131 or  +91 9810012383.

[rebabbittingbearings]

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[vaishalirapower]

Availability of Undersize Bearings and Crankshaft Repair for the Daihatsu 5DC-17

For the purpose of repair of crankshaft and grinding crankpins, we have particularly developed and specialized onsite crankshaft grinding equipment that may be inserted through the engine block window. There is no requirement that the crankshaft be removed from the block and sent to a shop for Crankshaft Repair of Daihatsu 5DC-17. The undersized bearings that RA Power Solutions keeps on hand are needed right after grinding. For more information, contact us for crankshaft repair, crankshaft grinding and metal stitching at info@rapowersolutions.com, 0124-425-1615, or +91-9810012383.

[crankshaftgrindingrepair]

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[engineoverhaulingservices]

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[fantasy-anatomy-analyst]

Fellow crocheter! I heard you mention dragon scale gloves, do you have a pattern by chance?

Oh man I wrote down the pattern so long ago I have it memorized lol. My notes say I originally found it from the Reservoir Fibers youtube channel, so it'd be this video here I think.

They use a pretty thin yarn held double and for some reason they show it with black yarn, which is a pretty bad visual aid. But you can look up "crocodile stitch fingerless gloves" and find other tutorials as well!

Basically it goes like this:

Start with a chain in a multiple of six, which determines the number of scales you will have per row (it will shrink slightly in size once you add the scales. My hand is roughly 7 scales around but I can squeeze into a 6 scale glove. Just make sure the starting chain fits comfortably around the base of your fingers) connect the chain with a slip stitch.

Two options for the foundation under the scales. Either do 2 double crochet (UK treble) in one chain, chain one, skip 2 chains and then do one double crochet in the third chain (and then reverse it, ch1, skip2, 2dc, repeat around) or you can do a V-stutch in place of the 2 doubles, which puts the chain 1 bit in between those 2 dc. Basically you just need a V shape alternating with a regular lone stitch and a chain space to keep things from getting too tight.

And then the tricky part is learning how to do the scales. 5dc around the vertical post of one side of a V, ch1, 5dc around the next post of the V, single crochet on the lone stitch in between the V stitches.

The tutorial recommends turning the glove inside out for every foundation row but this can be avoided by simply working it in the opposite direction from the scales.

Boy I hope I didn't just make that more confusing lol. When I make these gloves, I usually have 6 scale rows, then the thumb hole (which is made by skipping the last lone dc of the foundation and replacing it with 6 chains) and then 6 more scale rows to make it wrist length. To get the cuff a little more snug, just do 3dc in the middle of each scale and then 2dc between each scale to make it a multiple of 5 instead of 6.

If you need to, you can also add an extra scale right before the thumb row, and then shrink it back down after the thumb row, but that is a whole extra step that's usually not necessary!

I use sock weight yarn that's a blend of wool and nylon, but I have seen people make them out of much heavier thick acrylic before, if that's all you have access too. It just means the scales will be a lot thicker and the gloves will be heavier. If you're going to use cotton, make sure it's a soft kind and not the rough sort that's used for washcloths.

(Image description: me, wearing dark multicolored wrist length fingerless gloves with a scaly texture, and making a heart shape with my hands. End description)

[thebackalleydealer]

Flamingo

Written Instructions Below

Head and Body

-Using pink yarn, work the head and body in one piece following the instructions for the peacock (Written Below)

-Work Head and Body in one piece from top down

Round 1: Using Dark blue yarn, 6dc in an adjustable ring (6sts)

Round 2: 2dc in each st (12sts)

Round 3: *2dc in next st, 1dc* six times (18sts)

Round 4-6: 1dc in each st (18sts)

Round 7: 3dc, *dc2tog* six times, 3dc (12sts)

-Insert the eyes between rounds 5 and 6, with 5 sts inbetween

-the decreases form the front of the head, so eyes should be positioned above the decreases

-Place a marker in the exact center of the front

Round 8: 4dc, *dc2tog* twice (one decrease on each side of marker), 4dc (10sts)

Rounds 9-11: 1dc in each st (10sts)

Round 12: place a marker in the center stitch of the back. This stitch is the start of the round. work 2dc in each st, 8dc, 2dc in next st (12sts)

Round 13: *2dc in next st* three times, 6dc *2dc in next st* twice (18sts)

Round 14: *2dc in next st* four times, 12dc, *2dc in next st* twice (24sts)

Round 15: Idc in each st (24sts)

Round 16: *2dc in next st* four times, 18dc, *2dc in next st* twice (30sts)

Round 17: Idc in each st (30sts)

Round 18: *dc2tog, 3dc*six times (24sts)

Round 19: *dc2tog, 2dc* six times (18sts)

-Stuff with toy filling

Round 20: -dc2tog* six times (6sts)

Legs

-Using grey yarn, work the legs following the instructions for the peacock (Copied below)

Round 1: 2slst in the chain, 3ch, 2slst in the new chain, 4slst further down the first chain

-Leave an end for sewing

-sew legs to underside of body

Beak

-Work the increases at the same point in each round

Round 1: using black yarn, work 3dc in an adjustable ring (3sts)

Round 2: 2dc in next st, 2dc (4sts)

Round 3: 2dc in next st, 3dc (5sts)

Round 4: using white yarn, work 2dc in next st, 4dc (6sts)

Round 5: 2dc in next st, 5dc (7sts)

Round 6: 1dc in each st (7sts)

-Fasten off, leaving an end for sewing

-Stuff the beak a little, if desired

-Sew on the beak between. the eyes

Wing (Make 2)

-Using pink yarn, make 10ch, then start in the second ch from the hook

Row 1: work as follows down one side of the chain: 3dc (forms the first wing feather) 1slst *4ch, starting in second ch from the hook, 3dc, 1dc in next st of the original chain* five times, continue along the other side of the ch, 1slst in next st, 1dc in next 5sts

-Fasten off, leaving an end for sewing

-Sew the wings to side of body

Full Book

[crochetedblorbos]

"I was wondering if you...would...help me kill someone."

Character Name: Dr. Annie Walker

Fandom: Realms of Peril & Glory: Liminal London [Podcast]

Played By: Shamani Bundell

Yarn Used: Dress/Shoes/Hair: Loops & Threads Soft Classic - Black Skin: CraftSmart Value - White Lips: CraftSmart Value - Tomato

Basic pattern here.

I have yet to hear Shamani voice a character I didn’t want to hug at least a little bit, and Annie is no exception.I have yet to hear Shamani voice a character I didn’t want to hug at least a little bit, and Annie is no exception. She's just been through so much and she doesn't deserve any of it, and every time it looks like she's going to get at least something approximating a happy ending...ugh. At least she got one dance and one kiss, right?

Annie went WAY off the beaten path, and deviates from the standard pattern as follows:

Dress: Okay, this was actually a lot of fun. For the first time, I did the skirt part first! I wanted it to be a kind of classy, elegant ballgown of the sort that Annie’s goth little heart would thrill to and Chantal’s innate fashion sense would approve of, so I used a shell stitch. The pattern is as follows:

Skirt: Ch 79. R1: Sc in second ch from hook, [skip next 2 ch, 5 dc in next ch, skip next 2 ch, sc in next ch] 12 times, skip next 2 ch, 5dc in next ch, skip next 2 ch, join to first sc (13 sc, 65 dc). R2: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), 4 dc in same st, [skip next 2 st, sc in middle dc of shell, skip next 2 st, 5 dc in next sc] 12 times, skip next 2 st, sc in middle dc of shell, skip next 2 st, sl st in third ch (13 sc, 65 dc). R3: Ch 2, [hdc in next 11 st, inv dec] 6 times, sl st in first hdc (72 hdc). R4: Ch 1, [sc in first st, skip next 2 st, 5 dc in next st, skip next 2 st] 12 times, sl st in first sc (12 sc, 60 dc). R5: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), 4 dc in same st, [skip next 2 st, sc in middle dc of shell, skip next 2 st, 5 dc in next sc] 11 times, skip next 2 st, sc in middle dc of shell, skip next 2 st, sl st in third ch (12 sc, 60 dc). R6: Ch 2, [hdc in next 10 st, inv dec] 6 times, sl st in first hdc (66 hdc). R7: Ch 1, [sc in first st, skip next 2 st, 5 dc in next st, skip next 2 st] 11 times, sl st in first sc (11 sc, 55 dc). R5: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), 4 dc in same st, [skip next 2 st, sc in middle dc of shell, skip next 2 st, 5 dc in next sc] 10 times, skip next 2 st, sc in middle dc of shell, skip next 2 st, sl st in third ch (11 sc, 55 dc). R7: Ch 2, [hdc in next 9 st, inv dec] 6 times, sl st in first hdc (60 hdc). R8: Ch 1, [sc in first st, skip next 2 st, 5 dc in next st, skip next 2 st] 10 times, sl st in first sc (10 sc, 50 dc). R9: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), 4 dc in same st, [skip next 2 st, sc in middle dc of shell, skip next 2 st, 5 dc in next sc] 9 times, skip next 2 st, sc in middle dc of shell, skip next 2 st, sl st in third ch (10 sc, 50 dc). R10: Ch 2, [hdc in next 8 st, inv dec] 6 times, sl st in first hdc (54 hdc). R11: Ch 1, [sc in first st, skip next 2 st, 5 dc in next st, skip next 2 st] 9 times, sl st in first sc (9 sc, 45 dc). R12: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), 4 dc in same st, [skip next 2 st, sc in middle dc of shell, skip next 2 st, 5 dc in next sc] 8 times, skip next 2 st, sc in middle dc of shell, skip next 2 st, sl st in third ch (9 sc, 45 dc). R13: Ch 2, [hdc in next 7 st, inv dec] 6 times, sl st in first hdc (48 hdc). R14: Ch 1, [sc in first st, skip next 2 st, 5 dc in next st, skip next 2 st] 8 times, sl st in first sc (8 sc, 40 dc). R15: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), 4 dc in same st, [skip next 2 st, sc in middle dc of shell, skip next 2 st, 5 dc in next sc] 7 times, skip next 2 st, sc in middle dc of shell, skip next 2 st, sl st in third ch (8 sc, 40 dc). R16: Ch 2, [hdc in next 6 st, inv dec] 6 times, sl st in first hdc (42 hdc). R17: Ch 1, [sc in first st, skip next 2 st, 5 dc in next st, skip next 2 st] 7 times, sl st in first sc (7 sc, 35 dc). R18: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), 4 dc in same st, [skip next 2 st, sc in middle dc of shell, skip next 2 st, 5 dc in next sc] 6 times, skip next 2 st, sc in middle dc of shell, skip next 2 st, sl st in third ch (7 sc, 35 dc). R19: Ch 2, [hdc in next 5 st, inv dec] 6 times, sl st in first hdc (36 hdc). R20: Ch 1, [sc in first st, skip next 2 st, 5 dc in next st, skip next 2 st] 6 times, sl st in first sc (6 sc, 30 dc). R21: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), 4 dc in same st, [skip next 2 st, sc in middle dc of shell, skip next 2 st, 5 dc in next sc] 5 times, skip next 2 st, sc in middle dc of shell, skip next 2 st, sl st in third ch (6 sc, 30 dc). R22: Ch 2, hdc in front loop of each st around, sl st in first hdc (36 hdc). R23: Ch 1, sc in back loop of each st around, sl st in first sc (36 sc).

Bodice: I picked up the pattern as if R23 was R42 at that point and mostly continued as normal. I did try to give her a sweetheart neckline, though, so when I got to a point where I judged the plunge of the collar would come in, I switched to the skin color, did 3 sc in back loops, switched back to the dress color, 1 sc, back to skin, 3 sc in back loops, and resume dress color for remainder of round. The next round I just did expanded the stretch of skin by one stitch on either side and continued to do so until I reached the natural end of the dress.

When I reached the neck, I actually stuffed her from the bottom up. I then sewed on a base that was, essentially, your basic circle with a ripple effect on the outer rim because I had hoped it would make the skirt appear to billow. I don’t think it worked exactly the way I intended, but it works well enough.

And speaking of things that didn’t work exactly the way I intended but worked well enough…

…I put a magnet in Annie’s right shoulder blade, so she and Declan can share a dance in the closest approximation of proper ballroom frame that can be achieved through half-remembered long-ago lessons and a single YouTube video tutorial.

Head: I did what I did with Alice and stitched Annie’s scalp in her hair color, then used the loop method to attach hair all around her hairline. Once I had done that, I experimented with gathering it into a bun but settled for a high ponytail because it wasn’t quite long enough. I tried to give her a little bit of blood trickling out of the corner of her mouth, too. And the eyes…red (well, dark pink) just seemed too clichéed, so I went with gold.

Arms: You know those frilly off-the-shoulder sleeves you see on fantasy ball gowns? That’s what I was going for here. I did the arms in the skin color all the way up, but I did the round next from last in front loops only and the last one in back loops only. I then joined the dress yarn to the front loops of that round, sc in each loop around, joined, and then did two shells, one on either side…more or less.

[akuma-homura]

(not like serious negative or anything LMAO just noticing things)

man. ha11111zbin really does like. live rent free in ha---zbin hatedom-folks heads huh

like I look at tweets about TA-/DC and there's just randos making random comparisons to ha---1zbin for like. basically no reason. no one was talking about it compared to h---2azbin positively or negatively it was a tweet about TA---5DC itself by itself.

how in the world can one be happy thinking about something they hate all the time to the point of needing to bring it up in response to other unrelated things. like. mates. touch grass. like I understand hating something and wanting to ramble about it for a bit esp to friends but if you're this hate-obsessed you genuinely might. like. need to take a breather.

you genuinely do not need to make everything about h=---4azbin to shit on hazbi---4n. it's okay. relax.

[worldiary]

Thanks to @floating-through-everyday for recommending I try this tutorial for my second crochet project. The results are in:

I'm quite proud of it! My goals were:

Finish the remaining yarn from my first crochet project. ✅

Have a set pattern for a long period. (Compared to the doily where things changed frequently) ✅

Practice maintaining consistent tension? 🤷

Learnings:

Having a set pattern for a long period is fun. You get into a flow state and it makes it easy to crochet on public transit or in a chatting group.

I like crocheting best when I'm multitasking-- listening to a podcast or on public transit or something. Having a set pattern is boring if it's the only thing you're doing.

I like having both video & written instructions. Video tutorials are great because you can scrutinize how to do something easily. But once you get past the learning phase, you need a written tutorial when you need to quickly check "is it 3dc or 5dc?".

Having a useful goal is motivating. With this, my goal was to use up the thread. I thought it would let me quit midway if I got bored. And it would let me perfect my skills instead of worrying about messing up a large complex piece. I stand by this choice intellectually. Though I'm not sure I got that much better by the end? You'll notice my edges are all curly compared to the tutorial. Anyway, once I got the hang of the pattern, I started thinking "what am I doing this for? What will this be used for?". You pour too much time and energy into these things to want a useless strip of lace at the end.

For my next project...I think I'm ready for some kind of attire? Maybe a vest or something? Something beginner-friendly that is still useful. Or a little toy I can give as a gift 🤔. Lmk if folks have suggestions!

[metalstitchinglocking]

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[tdjdt]

ssvwv.com,BycBmlYq76H5rLgB91n1r0JkD8RGqhkrSH3rV8xglGFuTCF2ICWCnxf9zpEOa6wBYfRJe23snGkIqs4SbMCBQdi1ekFVaMu1igQmZXyo

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[crankshaftgrindingrepair]

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[engineoverhaulingservices]

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[thebackalleydealer]

Peacock

Written Instructions Below

Head and Body

-Work Head and Body in one piece from top down

Round 1: Using Dark blue yarn, 6dc in an adjustable ring (6sts)

Round 2: 2dc in each st (12sts)

Round 3: *2dc in next st, 1dc* six times (18sts)

Round 4-6: 1dc in each st (18sts)

Round 7: 3dc, *dc2tog* six times, 3dc (12sts)

-Insert the eyes between rounds 5 and 6, with 5 sts inbetween

-the decreases form the front of the head, so eyes should be positioned above the decreases

-Place a marker in the exact center of the front

Round 8: 4dc, *dc2tog* twice (one decrease on each side of marker), 4dc (10sts)

Rounds 9-11: 1dc in each st (10sts)

Round 12: place a marker in the center stitch of the back. This stitch is the start of the round. work 2dc in each st, 8dc, 2dc in next st (12sts)

Round 13: *2dc in next st* three times, 6dc *2dc in next st* twice (18sts)

Round 14: *2dc in next st* four times, 12dc, *2dc in next st* twice (24sts)

Round 15: Idc in each st (24sts)

Round 16: *2dc in next st* four times, 18dc, *2dc in next st* twice (30sts)

Round 17: Idc in each st (30sts)

Round 18: *dc2tog, 3dc*six times (24sts)

Round 19: *dc2tog, 2dc* six times (18sts)

-Stuff with toy filling

Round 20: -dc2tog* six times (6sts)

Crest

-attach dark blue yarn to round 1 with a slst

-*make 4dc, start in the second ch from hook, 1htr, 2slst, work one more slst in round 1 of the head*

-Repeat till you have three crest feathers

-Fasten off and darn the end

-Sew the crest to the top of the head on the adjustable ring

Beak

Round 1: using beige yarn, 3dc in an adjustable ring (3sts)

Round 2: 2dc in next st, 2dc (4sts)

Round 3: 1dc, 2dc in next st, 2dc (5sts)

-Fasten off, leaving an end for sewing

-Do not stuff the beak

-Sew on between eyes

Leg (Make 2)

-Using beige yarn. make 7st, then start in the second ch from the hook

Round 1: 2slst in the chain, 3ch, 2slst in the new chain, 4slst further down the first chain

-Leave an end for sewing

-sew legs to underside of body

Wing (Make 2)

Round 1: using dark blue yarn, 5dc in an adjustable ring (5sts)

Round 2: 2dc in next st, 4dc (6ata)

Round 3: 2dc in next st, 5 dc (7sts)

Round 4: 1dc in each st (7sts)

-Do not stuff wings

-press flat and sew to sides of the body

Tail Feather (Make 5)

Round 1: Using dark blue yarn, 5dc in an adjustable ring (5sts)

Round 2: Using turquoise yarn, 2dc in each st

Round 3: attach green yarn with a slst, make 6ch, then start in second ch from the hook

1slst, 2dc, 1htr, 1tr, skip 1st of round 2, *1dc, 2dc in next st* four times, skip 1 st and continue on the other side of the chain, 1tr, 1htr, 2dc, 1slst

-Fasten off, leav an end for sewing

-Once you have made all five feathers, sew them together through the back loops of the first 6sts

-Sew entire tail to bird

Full Book

[cravingcrafts]

Place Mat !

Learnt another stitch doing this one, a “puff” stitch, I used a 4mm hook and some random black yarn (I think double knit??) but this one seemed more stiff than the other yarn I had?? Idk I have no clue what it was but this is a good material for the designed purpose at least so it’s okay :)

The video I followed is below, I made some changes though, the last round, I didn’t wait to watch how to do the round and just did 5dc in each ch4 space (as I thought the 8dc was too thick when I started doing it but that’s my own fault because I got way ahead of myself) - still cute though !

🖤🖤🖤