#3d embroidery tutorial
Explore tagged Tumblr posts
Text
One more tutorial. I think this is the last one I have for now.
Here's how you stitch a 3D jellyfish. This is a more advanced tutorial. Prior experience with most of the stitches is recommended.
Materials: You'll need several needles, at least one shorter and one really long. I've used sashiko needles in three lengths, 4 cm, 5.5 cm and 8.5 cm. As for yarn, I think you can use whatever you have. Most of it can be done with six-stranded floss, but you'll need some thicker woolen yarn for the fluffy turkey stitch. I used fine d'aubusson (a fine wool embroidery yarn) for the body, six-stranded floss (2-3 strands) for most of the tentacles, a shiny silky embroidery floss for the edge of the body and a couple tentacles, and knitting yarn scraps for the turkey stitch.
Stitches: satin stitch, bullion stitch, padded satin stitch, buttonhole stitch, drizzle stitch and turkey stitch. Please look up stitch instructions on youtube, and do a bit of practice beforehand. This project is probably not a good practice run for these stitches.
Time: depends on the size of your jellyfish. I made quite a large one and it took me about 5 hours to complete.
1. Make a sketch of your jellyfish. At least of the body. Fill this body from edge to edge with bullion stitch, make them a bit longer than the body is wide so that they are somewhat loose. You should be able to get a finger underneath the bullion, depending on the size of your jellyfish.
2. Then it's time to satin stitch the body. For this part it's important that the needle goes through the fabric as close to where it came up as possible. The goal is not just to make a 3D body, but to make it a hollow 3D body. Don't just stitch over the bullion, stitch around it. It's also important to not pull too tight. Bullion stitch of this lenght is rather malleable, so it's a bit tricky to keep the satin stitch even. Hold a finger in the hollow underneath the bullion as you pull the thread tight. This will stop it from getting to tight, as well as make sure you keep the hollow. As the stitching gets thicker the hollow will get smaller, but that's ok.
3. When the top part of the body is fully stitched it's time to do normal flat satin stitch for the bottom part, the inside of the body of you will. Leave an opening in the middle though, you'll need some space for the drizzle and turkey stitch later.
4. This is a good time to give the edge some definition. Do buttonhole stitch around the top edge, then you go around and do another row of buttonhole stitch, kinda the other way around, through the loops from the first row. Hopefully you can see from the pictures what I've done. The bottom edge of the body doesn't need defining and won't be very visible anyway, so I just did some sloppy stitches along there and called it good enough.
5. Now it's time for the tentacles. Start with the drizzle stitch, because the turkey stitch will just get in the way if you start with that... but do remember to leave space for the turkey stitch underneath the drizzle stitch. This is where you need the loooong needle. Pack as much drizzle stitch on that needle as you can. You'll notice that the drizzle stitch wants to rotate around your needle as it gets longer, do let it, that will just help you fit more stitch on there, as well as give the finished stitch a nice curl.
6. When you think you have enough drizzle you can move on to the turkey stitch. You will not need to do a lot of it. You'll probably overestimate how much you need, but that's ok, you can always give the fluff a bit of a haircut later. Do a few looong loops of turkey stitch, a little bit longer than your drizzle stitch. Cut the loops to slightly different lengths, otherwise you'll get a very blocky bit of fluff... tapered is better. Untwist the yarn and separate the strands, draw a needle through the strands to fluff them up.
7. As a finishing touch you can add some long and thin strands around the edge of the body.
Edit: Tfw a post has been up for years before you notice that you forgot a whole-ass step. Apparently #4 has been missing all this time. Oh well.
#embroidery#3d embroidery#fiber art#needlework#embroidery tutorial#fiber art tutorial#3d embroidery tutorial#tutorial#jellyfish art#theenbyroiderer
788 notes
·
View notes
Text
I think after a long back and forth process of trying different crafts I've finally found one that I enjoy; embroidery.
It makes me really happy since it's a smaller scale craft that keeps my hands busy and the finished effect is beautiful, and even more than that, it's versatile! I can embroider jackets or pants, or make patches for them, or even hang it up on the wall!!! I've always preferred hand sewing so I'm happy to finally have found a medium that's inexpensive and small. Like, I love crocheting so much but I don't want or need any more blankets or sweaters. I love watercolor but I find the set up and clean up process EVERY time I want to do a bit of work to be daunting. I tried my hand with perler beads and found that it didn't create the look I wanted - the pixel art aesthetic is nice but it looks juvenile for what I want and can only be a display piece - not to mention I completely fucked up half of my boards on my first attempt using them.
So happy that I found what I enjoy ;w;
#biggest thanks of all to youtuber Happyjasu for the amazing embroidery tutorials that got me to really try my hand at 3d style embroidery#its genuinely addicitive
5 notes
·
View notes
Text
I've been sitting on this pattern and tutorial for a while now! so time to finally share it with you! I was lamenting that the jellycat pip and sugar mice were long retired and difficult to get your hands on unless you are willing to pay much more than they retailed for each mouse, so i decided to try and eyeball a pattern and make some myself! they're not exact as i only used constructed visual references but they're close! please note that this pattern set is intended for personal use only. Rough tutorial under the cut!
This pattern is for printing onto A4 but you can check your scale with the measurements I've provided or just play around with how big or small you want to try and make them! i didn't really get any wip photos of pip mouse but it's method is largely the same with the nose being the major change, which i will detail in text in the instructions below.
for sugar mouse i would recommend using polar fleece as it will act the right way for the ears to do their squishy marshmallow looking thing. but minky should also work or other similar fabrics! for pip mouse if you can find a similar curly looking fabric with a thin backing that'll be ideal but fleece will also work well, you just wont get the furry texture, you want a fabric with a little bit of stretch to it. i however would not recommend fabrics like felt or non stretch cotton for these guys as it's likely to not take shape the same as there's no give to the fabric.
once you have printed out the pattern and cut the pieces in your fabric, you'll want to sew the ears up and turn them inside out, then put them aside for later. just leave them as is for now but here you can see i was playing around with pinching the turned through ear into shape.
Then moving on, sew the back pieces together along the spine and front of face. you then want pull the bottom open ends apart gently and place the open sides flat up against the base piece so that they're aligned, it can be good to pin this in place so it doesn't shift.
then, get your tail rope, and tie a knot at either end, placing the base of it inbetween the seam at the butt so that it'll sit in the right place, then sew the seam up directly with the tail in place, make sure you sew through the rope to secure it and make sure it doesnt shift. Sew around the bases seam leaving a hole in one side so that you can then turn your mouse through.
once turned through you will want to stuff your mouse with polyfill quite a bit so it takes shape! i like to put weighted beans in mine for extra effect, you can use dried rice or wheat too, just sew a little circle pouch a bit smaller that the mouses base with scrap fabric and fill and seal! then insert into the turning hole while you stuff. once stuffing is done you can sew the hole up with a ladder stitch. the weight from the beads will allow your mouse to sit up quite well.
next you will want to get those ears you put aside, take each corner and bring the ends together in the middle. then sew them gently together at the ends with one or two stitches in about the same spot. you want them to look 3d so dont sew the ends to the back of the ear, just end to end so they meet in the center.
Then pin the ears in place on the head
then you need to ladder stitch the ears in place while they're pinned so they dont shift around, go all the way around the outside edge of each.
now you're almost done! next they just need a face! sugar mouse only needs embroidery by way of a french knot for both the eyes and nose (you can find good video tutorials on how to sew a french knot online), pip mouse will also need a french knot for the eyes but has a separate process for it's nose. (for the pip mouses nose you will need to leave the marked nose hole open and then stitch the nose fabric to the square nose backing in line with the dotted direction on the pattern, (it should look kind of baggy when it's unstuffed) sew it up completley with no hole, then cut a tiny slit in the backing and add polyfill there before closing with a basic stitch, then you ladder stitch the nose directly to the marked nose hole)
in order to hide the embroidery anchor knots i find the best way is to start by going down through the middle of the ears and then coming back up where you want the eye to be, and then going back down and up through the ear for the finishing knot, as it creates a very easy cover for them and looks nice and clean!
then you have yourself a little buddy!
haha they're great to squish! if you use this pattern i'd love to see your results!
5K notes
·
View notes
Text
Every fun post on here that encourages people to have hobbies/be creative always gets an avalanche of "Some people are poor Karen" type reactions and respectfully, you're all super annoying. I've never lived above the poverty line and this is a list of hobbies I have that were cheap or entirely free:
Read books: Go to the library, lend a book from a friend
knitting, crochet, embroidery: Get some needles from the bargan store and ask around, people have leftovers from projects they'll happily give you. Thrift stores also often carry leftover fabric and other supplies. And talk about your hobby loud enough and an old lady will show up and gift you their whole collection, because there are way more old ladies with a closet full of wool than there are grandchildren who want to take up the hobby.
Origami/paper crafts: get some scrap paper and scissors, watch a youtube tutorial
walking: put on shoes open door
pilates/yoga/etc: get a mat or just use your carpet, watch a youtube tutorial
Houseplants: look online for people that swap plant cuttings. There are always people giving out stuff for free to get you started. If you're nice enough you'll probably get extra
gardening: You're gonna need some space for this one of course but you can just play around with seeds and cuttings from your grocery vegetables.
aquarium keeping is a bit of an obscure one but I got most of my stuff second hand for cheap or free and now I have a few thousand euro worth of material and plants.
drawing/art: You get very far just playing with bargan store materials. I did my entire art degree with mostly those.
writing: Rotate a cow in your head for free
cooking: again one you can make very expensive, but there are many budget recipes online for free. Look for African or Asian shops to get good rice and cheap spices.
Join a non-profit: Cities will have creative organisations who let you use woodworking machines or screen presses or laser cutters or 3D printers etc etc etc for a small fee. Some libraries also lend out materials.
candle making: You need some molds (cheap), wick, two old cooking pots for au bain marie melting and a ton of scrap candles, ask people to keep them aside for you.
a herbarium, flower pressing: Leaves are free, wildflowers too, ask if you can take from peoples gardens.
puzzles: thrift stores, your grandma probably
Citizen science: look for projects in your area or get the iNaturalist app
And lastly and most importantly: Share! Share your supllies, share your knowledge. Surround yourself with other creative people and before you know it someone will give you a pot of homemade jam and when you want to paint your kabinet someone will have leftover paint in just the right color and you can give them a homemade candle in return and everyone is having fun and building skills and friendships and not a cent is exchanged. We have always lived like this, it's what humans are build to do.
And all of it sure beats sitting behind a computer going "No stranger, I refuse to let myself have a good time."
Anyway I'm logging off bc I'm making some badges for a friend who cooked for me and then I'm going to fix some holes in everyones clothes.
20K notes
·
View notes
Text
There isn't a pattern, sorry! I drew the leaves onto some hooped fabric (set into an embroidery hoop for tension). Then I bent wire into the shape of the leaves/stem, and sewed that onto my drawings. I embroidered the leaves as you see here, going just outside the wire.
Then I used some alcohol based markers to tint the fabric near the edges so it would show less when I cut them out. I put some florists tape around the stems and shoved them into a foam block that's sitting in the little pot.
I hope this helps! If you make your own please show me <3
Rainbow plant! Design and embroidery by me, 2023
#embroidery#the only plants i can take care of#my art#3d embroidery#stumpwork#the rainbow plant#tutorial#kinda#gif
683 notes
·
View notes
Text
Hardanger sampler
The heart design came from The Embroidery Stitch Bible. The diamond design was from a very clear and easy-to-follow tutorial on the Epida Studio website.
I'm definitely going to try hardanger again in the future. I especially think there's a lot of scope to work it into 3D/layered designs.
16 notes
·
View notes
Link
The Raised Needle Weaving Stitch is a dimensional stitch that is ideal for 3D embroideries.
8 notes
·
View notes
Note
Hi!! How did you learn to make maxis match clothes? I would like to start doing it uwu
Hi ! So to be fair I don't remember exactly how I went about starting making CC at the very beginning except from reading tutorials and downloading Sims4Studio but here are the steps I more or less followed in my CC making journey.
First off I was already quite used to some picture editing softwares (namely Gimp and Photoshop) which definitely helped so I would recommend familiarising yourself with one of these.
Then comes the gateway drug to CC creation that are ✨recolors✨. For those you just need S4S and a picture editing software of your choice. Recolors can be quite simple : maybe you just want to change an item's color or add patterns to it. But with a little more editing/drawing skills you can also remove/add some details to the diffuse texture.
Here is a link to a short tutorial for a simple recolor using gimp by @smubuh
To keep the maxis match aesthetic the easiest way to go is to be a 🙌scavenger🙌 : you want to add buttons / belts / lace / embroidery / whatever to your texture ? Steal it from an other Sims 4 item ! Just look at your CAS and BB in game as a catalogue of all the details and textures you could frankenstein onto your project.
Maybe you'll be content with making recolors forever but if like me you start wanting to make something with a shape that doesn't already exist in game or in the CC world out there, you will have to deal with mesh. (the mesh is the 3D shape of the item as opposed to the 2D texture that is applied onto it) Meshing has a steeper learning curve than recoloring for sure so arm yourself with as much calm and patience as you can muster. First you'll need to download Blender, I recommend downloading the same Blender version as the one used in the tutorial you choose to follow because if you're anything like me you'll get lost otherwise. Also use a mouse, the scroll wheel makes moving around in blender so much easier than using a laptop touch pad like I did at the start 🤡.
And now that you have blender and a mouse time to mess around with meshes and for that like everyone I started (and honestly I mostly still stick to it nowadays) by frankenmeshing. Sticking to the frankenstein/scavenger theme from earlier, this is quite similar to what I described with scavenging textures, except this time we're combining meshes aka shapes : see a collar you like on that blouse, a sleeve you like on that dress ? Bam put them together !
For example here is a handydandy frankenmesh tutorial by @deetron-sims
Outside of frankenmeshing other ways to tranform meshes are to inflate and stretch parts of it (want a bigger skirt ? a shorter jacket ? the O key is your friend). And if you want to go beyond what I have you can also learn how to create meshes from scratch.
That being said dealing with meshes is full of surprises (mostly bad ones unfortunately), since you may have to deal with distorted weights, UV1 and whatever else, so it involved a lot of trouble shooting and trial & error. Being part of the S4S forum or the Creator Musing discord can be very helpful when you're at a loss (but always google and search for yourself before going around asking people).
Finally it's important to keep in mind that it takes time to learn how to make CC so don't be too hard on yourself and take breaks when it gets too frustrating. Personally it took me many months to graduate from recolors to frankesmeshing, I had to give up and try again many times before I finally got what I wanted.
Here are some more tutorials and resources :
@myshunosun made this great post about Maxis matched CC : Tips: components of creating Maxis Match objects for The Sims 4
@powluna has great video tutorials for beginners, especially this well rounded one that goes in details throught all of CAS CC creation (from the use of S4S all the way to blender) with neat little chapters so you can watch only the parts that you're focusing on at a time
S4S forum in addition to the S4S software itself this forum provides plenty of tutorials and a CC creator community
The Creator Musing discord is also full of links to various tutorials and resources (and once again a community of peers)
Specifically for Blender :
@ravasheencc's Resources Archive, I remember especially her Blender Basics Video being quite helpful when I was starting out
@surely-sims's Edutainment Lives which you can find on her twitch, mainly focused on Build&Buy CC
PS : I didn't mention the normal/bump map and the specular map because they are very much optional. I honestly didn't use these until a few months ago and even now I don't bother with them most times
14 notes
·
View notes
Text
33 notes
·
View notes
Text
nero plushie progress ramble [speedrunning this project i have like 3 weeks left lol] :
havent measured it in full but it will be BIG for my standards at least 40cm when standing. basing it on my simpler artstyle so the head is bigger you know how it is with humanoid plushies
not following any tutorial im following my heart . planned out almost everything for the body i need to measure some things and imagine them in 3d to understand if i need additional material in some places other than that its going great. im not fully sure how im going to layer the hair and getting its shape might be hard?
my nero design has very cartoony geometrical hair. idk how to explain it just look at how i draw it. and that fuckass swirl idk what to do with it i might just embroider it onto the fabric? like its impossible to do it in 3d whenever people with more complicated artstyles want to draw my nero i tell them not to worry about the hair because what the fuck are they supposed to do there. i drew his hair like that 4 years ago and said yuup it will stay like this. and it did
ok aside from the hair. im worried about making the clothes since i will have to replicate an actual sewing pattern but in a smaller scale and modify it and then do embroidery for golden elements. and idk how i will stylize shoes they might be totally flat fabric if shaping it into a shoe looks akward with the rest of the simple body. but im excited about the clothes and i hope i get to make more outfits later and dress him up all cutesy
3 notes
·
View notes
Text
ive never really gotten involved with cosplay discourse bc most of it is stupid but apparently sone people have been talking abt bought cosplays vs homemade cosplays and as a maker my head is full of thoughts. keep in mind that ive heard everything secondhand from my roommate (who also cosplays) bc i dont really use other social media (we have a joint cosplay insta i post on sometimes but they do everything else there).
ive been making my own cosplays since i was like 11 or 12, and im lucky enough to have had a mom who knows how to sew and could teach and help me those first few years. my dad is a nerd who was excited when i started cosplaying and going to cons with him and he's always has helped me with props. again, i know im lucky for this, and i had a pretty easy in to the hobby. this is all really just for context for my side here.
cosplay had a bit of a popularity boom over lockdown, because it was a way people could have fun at home, and that's great!! i love seeing people getting into things i love!! especially after being made fun of for it as a teen. but since then, ive noticed that the vast majority of new cosplayers are buying their costumes — and before i go further, i want to emphasize that i do not judge on an individual level whether or not youve made your cosplay, and nobody should. everybody's situation is different and it's important to remember the play part of cosplay. its supposed to be fun — and honestly that's really sad to me. what's even sadder is the amount of people saying things like 'everyone who makes their cosplays are rich' (i am absolutely fucking not, im currently unemployed bc im disabled) or 'if you make your cosplay youre not a cosplayer, youre a cosmaker' (this one doesnt even make sense. why are you alienating the creators of the entire hobby).
i get completely that its an intimidating thing to get into. making cosplays isnt just sewing. its also hair/wig styling, makeup artistry, foamwork, propmaking, etc... the list can really goes on bc it truly can be anything. resin casting, embroidery, beading... it all depends on what youre doing and how you want to do it. and im not saying it isnt a money- and timesink, because obviously you have to invest both of these things into it. but it doesnt have to be all fancy sewing machines and expensive fabrics!
did you know you can sometimes rent sewing machines from libraries? if theres a makerspace near you, thats a fantastic resource (they usually have things like sewing machines and 3d printers, and they usually host classes where you can learn to use their equipment)! youre even likely to find sewing machines at thrift stores! and speaking of thrift stores, bedsheets and curtains make great fabric sources, and if youre lucky you can find a piece you can alter or even just wear as part of the costume! and theres tons of tutorials and resources online for just about everything, even for specific costumes. there are also some good online fabric stores with much more variety and better prices than joanns, and you can look into if theres a place near you that sells recycled and donated remnants/unused fabrics, etc!
and like. idk. maybe thats all common knowledge among the specific group of cosplayers im talking about. theres nothing wrong with still choosing to buy a cosplay. i just ask: do you know how the people who made it are treated at the source you buy from? are they paid fairly? is it made out of cheap polyester and how comfortable is that for you?
i put — very literally, usually — blood sweat and tears into my costumes. im not saying everyone has to do this. im just. the making aspect is the heart of cosplay to me. its clearly not for everyone and thats fine. it just makes me sad to see so many people acting like its some elitist or inaccessible thing when its not
#genuinely. i miss the days when peoples first cosplays were 'bad'#bc they just started out and did things for the first time. its beautiful to me#anyway. yes i typed this up while sitting at my sewing machine. half-sewn cosplay piece on my lap. my head got too full while working on it#cosplay#slowmotalks
2 notes
·
View notes
Text
In the lull between fiber projects I'll just post another tutorial. Though this one is less a tutorial and more vague guidelines. There are parts that I can't really tell you how to do and I'm sure there are details that I don't have photos of... but I'll try to describe the process as best I can, and just hope that my words can fill in the gaps. Just ask if you have any questions and I'll try to answer them.
Materials: Cotton fabric, durable, not too thin. Pipe cleaners. Off white cotton thead. Off white wool yarn, a couple different thicknesses is preferable. One shorter and one longer needle, both sharp. (I used sashiko needles, one ~4cm and one ~6 cm.) Felting needles, for the top of the skull. Various green shades of wool yarn, perle, and other threads, for the foliage.
Step by step instructions:
1. Make a skull out of pipe cleaner. Just do it, I can't tell you how.
2. Find something to fill your skull with. I filled mine with a bundle of orts (thread scaps), so in my mind this skull will forever be known as Ort-For-Brains. I stitched around and through the bundle of orts a bit so that it was less a random tangle and more of a solid round shape. Then I tucked the orts into the skull and stitched the skull to the fabric with just a few stitches (using a durable cotton thread) around the edge. Make sure you fill the space inside the skull completely. Underneath the face of the skull the brains poked out a bit, so I did some stitches with the cotton thread there to hold the orts down. Another filler may be easier to work with, but I just couldn't resist the though of using colorful orts as brains...
3. Stitch over the pipe cleaner scaffold using wool yarn. I can't tell you exactly how to do this either, and depending on the shape of your scaffold you might encounter different challenges. Just be methodic, and don't overthink it. Use a thicker yarn, or more strands, on the top of the skull, and thinner/fewer strands when you are doing the face. When doing the face I'd say start with the eye sockets because they dominate the face. Stitch outwards from them, as if the sockets are suns and the thread sunbeams, if you get what I mean.
4. When you have stitched to your heart's content you may want to felt parts of the skull to make it smoother. I did anyway. I took bits of wool yarn and carded them a bit to make them less yarn-shaped and more like little sheets of wool, then I used felting needles to poke them into place on the top of the skull. If you have actual rowing wool, use that, it's probably better.
5.When you are satisfied with the skull you can do whatever you want with it of course. I added foliage. Techniques I used for that include: turkey stitch, drizzle stitch, woven picot stitch, bullion stitch and french knots.
#embroidery#3d embroidery#fiber art#3d embroidery tutorial#embroidery tutorial#fiber art tutorial#tutorial#kind of anyway#skull art#memento mori
424 notes
·
View notes
Text
Lolita coord for Midsummer Scream :) First time to the event, and it was super fun! When my friend started talking about going earlier this year, I knew it was the perfect opportunity to figure out what I could do with my LeMiroir Skeletal Remains jsk. The embroidery is so beautiful!! But while I was super into gothic fashion as a teenager who wasn’t allowed to buy it, as an adult my wardrobe is still very much not gothic, so this jsk felt like my first big foray into a darker style. Very intimidating, but even more exciting!
My first shot at styling was with a basic black blouse from taobao, plain black tights with Mary janes, and not much else! It was way too plain, I didn't even have a headpiece! But it gave me a starting point. I sewed together a bow to pin on front and got 3D rose tights. Messed around with a few different headpiece ideas before eventually giving in and buying a basic black horn base to customize. I painted them to have more realistic colors and a more matte texture, and finished off with ribbons and trims to make it look more elegant. Originally planned to add bells to it as well, but I got convienced out of that by a friend (;´∀`)
Changed it up one more time before the convention! Got a black petti since the white one was just too visible, and my academy bag in black from Cotton Candy Feet came in! A fantastic event bag, if anyone was wondering, perfect to hide water bottles, handfans, and a parasol haha. Replaced the black ribbons on the blouse with the same red from the headpiece to tie them in more. I kept feeling like there was just too much black and trying to bring in more color, but Im not sure that replacing the ribbons was quite the best move, if only because it made it so visible how often theyd come untied (。ŏ﹏ŏ) Followed a gothic makeup tutorial on YouTube to finished things off since makeup is not something I touch too often.
I was really proud of how all this came together, and my friends loved the look too, so it's all a win! \(^o^)/
Next time, I think I would like to try this JSK with a red blouse, or perhaps something more sheer for the tights? Now that I have one way to wear it down, I want to explore more, and more gothic looks overall( ^ν^)My inner teenager is so happy! See mom, it's not just a phase!
Happy Midsummer Halloween, everyone!
4 notes
·
View notes
Note
oh yeah! if I might ask: when embroidering details onto your dolls, how do you secure the ends? I've never found any resource that actually describes how to start and end the process of embroidering faces, etc. onto a 3d object so that it doesn't start to unravel if someone pulls on the thread, except doing it while crocheting the piece so you can knot the ends inside.
Hello! Firstly, thank you for the sweet first message -- it honestly made me smile ^_^ I'm just waiting on another Henry alt or resplendent to add to the collection! I'm just responding to that on here for brevity's sake lol
For the crochet question, I wish I had a fancy technique to share, but honestly I'd describe it more as brute force. For example, if I was going to embroider a mouth on an already-stuffed head, I'd make a knot in the thread, insert the needle into the back of the head and have it come out the front where I want to embroider, then shove the knot into the stuffing. Once the embroidery is done, basically do the same thing - shove the needle into the stuffing, come out somewhere on the back, then knot and shove. Or, instead of knotting both ends separately, you can knot them together and then shove them inside as one. It helps to use a big needle like a tapestry or yarn needle to get the thread from the back of the head to the front, then use a more appropriately sized one for the actual stitches.
It's hard to describe in words, so here's a tutorial/video that's basically the same method: www.planetjune.com/stitching. I can try taking pictures of my own methods if you want, but I think they do a much better job than I ever could.
Hopefully that helps and isn't just more confusing ^^' Good luck, and I'm happy to help if you have any other questions!
7 notes
·
View notes
Text
The lieutenant was just currently doing some embroidery since there's no one in the sick bay to attend to, and he'd already finished his tasks. Hell, he'd even wiped the whole place down and sanitized the tools and instruments. The hazmat suits he was going to check on apparently had been looked over already and had another science officer's signature. So, in short, he had some down time to practice stitching 3D roses, following a tutorial he'd found.
0 notes
Text
My Pinterest Boards:
Japanese Textile Inspiration:
Here are a few of my ideas to create for my samples during my Japanese project. I want to try several new techniques and adapt them into my own style and ideas from my previous research. I thought to try fabric manipulation for a 3D effect. I want to use some traditional Japanese textile techniques too to show a contrast of my research with traditional Japanese art and my own interpretation. Before starting my samples, I shall think of two different ways to create these and evaluate them in which ideas worked well and which is the best result from my image of inspiration. From my previous projects, I mostly focused on embroidery and applique but I shall test my experience during these two years to see how far I have come during my last project at college.
0 notes