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toptrampolines · 4 years

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In ground Trampoline Review: Why is In-ground Trampolines or Ground Level Trampoline Safer?

An inground or ground floor trampoline, you've heard, is cooler than a leg trampoline. So why is this the case? Centered on a variety of critical trampoline properties, we explain why these versions are safer. And you'll quickly understand that your inground or ground floor trampoline is the perfect and safest trampoline for you.

In Ground Trampoline

Low stepping

One of the reasons why an inground trampoline is better than a leg trampoline is the low stage. A buried trampoline is 20 centimeters above the ground on average. It is suitable for children as young as three years old. Another kind of buried trampoline that is the safest is the ground level trampoline. Since it is buried in the earth, there is no move at all.

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Both kinds of trampolines have additional advantages: no fumbling or risky scenes on a ladder, and no headaches for you. As a (possibly concerned) parent, you stand there watching helplessly as your child climbs up his jumping device. And, of course, you will enjoy it to the fullest in this secure setting.

Low fall height

Before you buy a gorgeous trampoline, you don't want to hear about the risks of trampoline jumping. However, it is important to consider this. Your child has a risk of falling off the trampoline. The 'dropping distance' of a trampoline on legs is far greater than that of an inground or ground floor trampoline. Under the case of a buried trampoline, the kid will crash on a soft surface if he or she falls (which we hope will not happen). A trampoline with a built-in trampoline is typically covered by grass or rubber tiles. And, of course, seeing your jumper land on grass rather than the rusty asphalt floor you chose to replace years ago is a better option.

There isn't much under the trampoline.

The more items you can stack beneath the trampoline, the higher it is above the deck. Kids, for example, enjoy building a hut for the dog or forgetting to put their balance bike under the trampoline due to their excitement. When jumping on a trampoline with the thighs, this is exactly where the risk is. Both in-ground trampolines and a trampoline on the ground floor are fully enclosed. A long skirt encircles the dig hole and is securely tied. This indicates that there is plenty distance between the trampoline and the void. As a result, in terms of protection, it has an advantage over a leg trampoline.

Both trampoline components are essential.

As a result, we can conclude that using in-ground trampolins is better than using a trampoline on hips. Of course, this isn't the case if the trampoline's components don't follow the required safety standards. The in-ground trampolines are not stable if the safety net is not correctly protected or if the trampoline edge is broken. As a result, we suggest that you thoroughly inspect all trampoline parts. Are they all up to snuff in terms of quality? You will find out how to do that in the article:

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How do you know if an inground trampoline is of good quality?

Well, indeed! You've been kicked out. You'd like to purchase a trampoline for yourself, your child, nephew, or grandchild. When it comes to trampoline efficiency, you simply don't know what to look for. When are trampoline components of decent quality? We'd like to help you out by describing which points you should pay attention to in this post. Parts that are crucial A trampoline is made up of a variety of fixed components. In a few years, they will need to be replaced. When you need to fix an item, it depends on the part and how much you use the trampoline. However, the nature of these parts plays a big role in this substitution. Pay attention to the following things to determine whether you are purchasing a high-quality trampoline:

The trampoline base, springs, trampoline edge, jumping pad, and safety net

The framework

A trampoline's base is similar to a house's foundation block. It serves as the trampoline's sturdy, stable foundation. Stainless steel is used for the majority of the doors. A decent frame has a tube diameter of at least 1.6 millimeters and no more than 3 millimeters. The frame is also galvanized, which adds to its consistency. The frame is rust-resistant thanks to the additional zinc coating, and it can survive all weather conditions. The consistency of the frame is often determined by the welds. To avoid denting, a thicker frame tube has a smooth weld seam without additional metal plates. With a warranty duration ranging from 6 to 10 years, you can be assured that the frame will fulfill your expectations. And the longer the service span is, the more robust the trampoline is.

The springs are plentiful.

The quality of a trampoline's springs determines how well it springs after a hop. The more the strength of jumps is spread, the longer the spring. Pay attention to the length, thickness, and form of the springs to assess their consistency. Feathers with an average length of 16 to 18 centimeters are used on a less robust trampoline. Springs that have been treated against corrosion and have an average length of 21 to 23 centimeters are used in healthy in-ground trampolines. The more a spring will stretch, the thicker it is. As a consequence, the jump's force is more evenly spread. Conical springs are shaped like a cone and spread force more equally than straight springs.

The edge of the trampoline

A trampoline's edge is typically brightly colored. The edge's primary purpose is to conceal the iron frame and springs. So that your child would not interfere with this situation with his foot. Closed cell foam that is firm and retains water is used to make a strong trampoline lip. A minimum thickness of 20 millimeters and an average width of 26 to 40 centimeters are needed. The safer, firmer, and more robust the edge is, the thicker the filling. It's a good idea to cover the edge with a cover to preserve the quality. This indicates that it will last longer.

The trampoline pad is a versatile piece of equipment.

Check to see what kind of substance the jumping mat is made of. This tells a lot about the trampoline's stability and consistency. The majority of jumping mats are made of permatron from the United States. Polypropylene and plastic fiber are combined in this product. Permatron from the United States is UV-resistant and mold-resistant. Permatron also performs admirably, allowing for high leaps. In-ground trampolines with a non-permatron spring mat are less environmentally friendly. The jumping mat's material can seem to be the same, but it is less sturdy and robust. A jumping mat will last for years if properly cared for, but it must be treated. On the trampoline, jumping for your pet or wearing sneakers is not a smart idea.

The security net

A trampoline safety net protects the trampoline from falling over which is essential for safety. A safety net is required, especially for in-ground trampolines with legs. However, the standard of safety nets varies greatly. Polypropylene piles are covered with firm foam and surrounded by a PVC cover in a high-quality, good safety net. These nets also have additional fastening solutions, such as screws to connect them to the frame. The net will remain close and firm around the trampoline in this manner. Finally, it is important to close the safety net. A overlapping closing is more secure and long-lasting than a zipper. Here, your child will have a more difficult time getting out.

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High-quality in-ground trampolines

So, ideally, the above points have given you a better understanding of trampoline efficiency. If you want to leave the trampoline in your garden for an extended period of time, anchoring pins should be used to protect the trampoline. The trampoline edge is protected from dirt from the outside by a plastic shell, which increases the trampoline's longevity. The consistency of your trampoline will last longer if you maintain it properly. According to our research, the following trampolines are the finest. Examine your own desires and interests in particular, and focus your final decision on them.

Final thoughts

As a result, a trampoline with legs is smoother than one with a built-in trampoline. Because of the low step and the drop gap, this is the case. Stepping on the trampoline is simple for kids, and they fall from a shorter distance. Soft materials, such as grass or rubber tiles, are often used to surround in-ground trampolines, reducing the effect of the fall. Furthermore, there is no room under the table for children to store their belongings. It's time for a side note. Every trampoline (both an inground and a trampoline on legs) is dangerous if one or more sections do not meet the safety standards.

• Everything you need - Our full in-ground trampoline package comes with the trampoline, retaining wall, and simple directions.

• Brilliant Bounce - The springs are the key. Our in-ground trampolines are the only ones to use commercial-grade springs, are extra-long, and use 33% more springs than our rivals.

• Shhhh - We're the only ones that use the one-of-a-kind TDU Vented Frame Pads, which enable all of the air to escape through the padding, avoiding the annoying pad slap noise.

• Security - We are the only organization that offers absolute, half, and quarter net solutions if you want to install a safety net.

• Easy - Our trampolines were created with ease of installation in mind. Don't take our word for it; see what our customers have to say.

• Long-lasting - Our in-ground trampolines are made entirely of high-quality European materials, from German steel to Italian springs.

• Are you not a fan of digging? - In certain cases, we have expert installation services.

Specifications Made in Europe

Capital in-ground trampolines are made in Europe from the best quality fabrics and components. Quality monitoring and inspection practices are strictly followed in our European manufacturing plants.

Frame with a Purpose

The frame is made of galvanized steel that is heavy. The top of the rectangular frame is attached to the mat, while the bottom segment serves as the foundation. The top and bottom frame pieces are connected by the retaining wall.

Built-in Retaining Wall

The retention wall keeps the earth firm around the cavity and prevents dirt from slipping into it. This tough and long-lasting retention wall is made of an eco-friendly recycled polypropylene/polyethelyne compound that is 4mm thick. Self-tapping screws are used to connect it to the frame quickly and securely.

TDU T Pads with Vents

Trampolines Down is a trademarked trampoline. The under-ventilated safety pad makes proper ventilation across the pad, which eliminates 'pad slap' noise that can occur with most in-ground trampolines and increases bounce efficiency.

Springs of Superior Quality

Pre-tensiled and conical in shape, these German-made 8.5" springs will never stretch or deteriorate in performance. For added rust resistance, the springs are double dipped 'cooked' galvanized. For added protection, the springs have a curl at one end.

Instructions for Assembly

Installing a Capital In-Ground Trampoline in your garden is better than you would imagine. See this brief video for a step-by-step tutorial about how to set up your trampoline:

Visit Our Official Website

Additional Resource:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Trampoline

#In ground Trampoline #In-ground Trampolines

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concretefilm1 · 4 years

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How Concrete Fasteners Work

The process used when fastening to concrete has basically remained unchanged over the years. Although there are epoxy/chemical type anchors in use today, the majority of anchors rely on the same principles that were developed many years ago.

Fastening to concrete is unique compared to other fastening applications, such as fastening two pieces of metal together by using a screw or a bolt and nut. Concrete anchors of any type are much more difficult to use and install correctly.

The concept of fastening something to a solid base material is completely different than for almost any other type of fastening application. Concrete is the most widely used base material in the world for the last 2,000 years and probably will remain so for the next 2,000 years due to its simplicity, strength, versatility and the abundance of the ingredients used to make it.

The Process With Which We Fasten To Concrete Is Simple:

1. Make a hole in the concrete

2. Put something in the hole to take up the space created

3. Expand the material in the hole via a nail, screw or setting tool

We are making a hole with a certain amount of volume and then inserting more material into the hole. This increased volume of material that pushes against the interior wall of the hole will create friction. This friction is how most mechanical concrete anchors obtain their holding values.

All the mechanical type concrete anchors work on the same basic principle. Drill a specific size hole, insert the anchor, and expand the anchor larger than the hole in order to make it difficult for the anchor to be pulled out of the hole. Concrete anchors are designed to go into a hole in concrete and not come out.

Wedge Anchors

Wedge anchors are two-piece concrete anchors that are assembled into one unit. The steel rod made from carbon steel or stainless steel is threaded on one end and the opposite end starts out slightly smaller in diameter and tapers out to the full diameter of the rod. A clip is then permanently attached to this end of the rod. The wedge anchor is inserted into a hole in concrete until the threads are below the surface of the concrete. The nut and washer are placed on the threads and tighten until finger tight. Using a wrench, the nut is then turned, which pulls the anchor up to wedge the clip between the stud and the wall of the concrete. When drilling a hole in concrete for a wedge anchor, the hole size is equal to the anchor diameter size.

Sleeve Anchors

The sleeve anchor is made up from four different parts. The stud, which is threaded and flared or cone shaped at one end, the expander sleeve, and the nut and washer. The expander sleeve is assembled over the stud with the nut and washer threaded on to the opposite side of the cone shaped end. The sleeve anchor is inserted into a hole drilled in the base material either concrete, brick or block. The nut is turned, which pulls the stud up through the expander sleeve, expanding it up against the inside wall of the base material. The hole size to be drilled into the concrete for a sleeve anchor is equal to the diameter of the anchor being used.

Concrete Screws

Concrete screws are different than all the rest of the anchors because they do not use expansion to derive their holding values. Concrete screws are a special threaded screw, with hardened notched threads and high-low threads. The notches and the high low threads help to eliminate concrete shavings from the hole as the screw taps threads into the base material. The hole size for concrete screws is smaller than the diameter of the screw. A 3/16" screw requires a 5/32" hole and a 1/4" screw requires a 3/16" hole. The concrete screw is inserted into the hole and turned either by hand or by a rotation drill until the concrete screw is tight against the fixture being fastened.

Drop-In Anchor

Drop-in anchors are a female anchor designed to be placed in concrete and then to have a threaded rod or bolt inserted. The drop-in anchor is made-up of two parts: the expansion shield, made from zinc plated carbon or stainless steel, and a case hardened expander plug that is cone-shaped and made from zinc plated carbon or stainless steel. One end of the shield is tapered, with four cut slots that run a portion of its length. The surface of this end may be smooth or knurled while the other end will be smooth. The expander plug is inside the anchor, placed at the end of the anchor that has the four slots, and the other end is threaded. The anchor is set by placing the anchor into a hole in concrete and by setting the expander plug using a setting tool. Each diameter of drop-in anchor has a specific setting tool. This setting tool is a steel rod with one end being necked down. The necked down portion of the setting tool is inserted into the drop-in anchor and pounded with a hammer until the lip of the anchor meets the lip of the setting tool. This action pushes the expander plug down into the drop-in anchor expanding the anchor where the four cuts are. As with all female type anchors, the size of the designated size of the anchor refers to the bolt size that goes into the anchor; the hole size is larger than the anchor size.

Machine Screw Anchor

Machine screw anchors are a female type anchor into which a threaded item is placed. Machine screw anchors are made up of two parts, the internally threaded cone and the sleeve. The sleeve is place over the threaded cone and inserted into a hole drilled in to the base material of concrete, brick or block, threaded cone first. The machine screw anchor is set by the sleeve being pushed over the expander sleeve wedging the sleeve between the expander sleeve and the inside wall of the concrete. The anchor is properly set when the lip of the setting tool meets the lip of the anchor. Each diameter machine screw anchor has a specific setting tool that is designated by the diameter of anchor being used. The machine screw anchor size is designated by the inside diameter of the bolt to be used with the anchor, the hole size required is larger than the anchor size being used.

Strike Anchor

Strike anchors are for use in solid concrete and are considered an impact expansion type of anchor. The strike anchor is made up of four parts: the body that is made from carbon steel with an interior hole the entire length of the anchor, a drive pin that is hardened, and a nut and washer plated in a yellow zinc. The body of the anchor is threaded on one end with the other end having four slots cut a portion of the length - the surface of this part of the body has ribs around the circumference. The length of the drive pin that is hardened must equal the length of the anchor and is placed inside the interior hole of the anchor body. The anchor is set by placing anchor into a predrilled hole in concrete with the nut and washer attached. The anchor must be tapped lightly until the nut and washer are against the base material or fixture being fastened down. The hardened pin is then driven into the anchor until the head of the pin meets the end of the anchor body, which will provide for the proper setting. As the pin is pushed into the anchor, the anchor is expanded. The hole that is needed to be drilled for the strike anchor is the same diameter as the diameter of the anchor being used.

Hammer Drive Anchor

Hammer drive anchors are made from a Zamac material that is strong and malleable. Hammer drive anchors are a light duty concrete anchor, made up of two parts the body and the zinc plated steel pin. The body of the hammer drive anchor is split from the bottom up for most of its length, with a mushroom head. The anchor body is hollowed out that runs through the head thickness and down into the shank for the entire length. The steel pin is what expands the anchor; it is made of high carbon steel, with a small head on one end and with the other end pointed. The anchor is set by hammering the steel pin into the anchor body. As the nail pushes through the anchor body, the split part expands to push against the interior wall of the hole in the base material. The hole diameter to be drilled for the hammer drive anchor is equal to the diameter of the anchor being used.

Split Drive Anchor

Split drive anchors are made from carbon steel that is heat-treated through, hardened and zinc plated. Split drive anchors are one piece with either a flat countersunk head or a round head. At the base of the anchor, opposite sides of the head the shank is sheared into two pre-expanded parts. These two halves are compressed when the anchor is driven into a predrilled hole in concrete. These two halves continually try to get back to their original shape, pushing against the inside wall of the hole. The split drive anchor requires a hole size that is equal to the diameter of the anchor being used.

Lag Shield

Lag shields are made up of two parts that are assembled into one piece. The lag shield is made from a Zamac material, which is a zinc alloy that is rust-resistant. The inside of the lag shield has internal threads designed to accept lag screw threads and its threads are tapered and run the length of the anchor. The outside body of the anchor has ribs that run the majority of the length of the anchor. The lag shield is set by inserting a lag screw into the anchor. Turning the lag screw into the tapered threads expands the two halves of the anchor and pushes against the base material. Lag shield anchors are designated by the diameter of the bolt that goes into the anchor. It is important that the hole size to be drilled is larger than the designated anchor size.

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kapson787-blog · 5 years

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Threaded Rods & Bars, Hex Bolts, Hex Nuts Fasteners manufactures exporters India threadedrodsmanufacturers.com +91-9876270000

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Contact Person: Mr. Sanjay Kapoor

Email [email protected]

Website http://www.threadedrodsmanufacturers.com

Works & Office KAPSON INDIA Plot no. 1250/D-27, Jaspal Bangar Road, Industrial Area-C, Ludhiana -141122 Punjab (INDIA)

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yestangshanshimaithings · 4 years

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arplis · 5 years

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Arplis - News: Top 16 for Best Coat Hat Hanger

Boutique Bathroom Antique Brass 3 Hooks Towel Rack Holder Coat and Hat Hanger Wall Mounted 8

Boutique Bathroom Antique Brass 3 Hooks Towel Rack Holder Coat and Hat Hanger Wall Mounted 8 -Accented with eco-friendly and lead-free material, brass, and the durable construction, the rack ensures quality and longevity. Perfect for hanging and organizing your face towels, bath towels, clothes and other accessories in order. It can be used in bedroom, kitchen, bathroom, toilet, kitchen, living room etc easily mounts to a wall with all hardware included. Processed with multiple plating technology and uniform polishing, the bronze finished surface is glossy and anti-rust through daily using, low maintenance. The noble and space saving design coordinates well with most fixtures and color schemes, meanwhile keeps all your hanging appliances organized.

EtechMart Oil Rubbed Bronze Black 5 Hooks Towel Rack Coat and Hat Hanger 11

EtechMart Oil Rubbed Bronze Black 5 Hooks Towel Rack Coat and Hat Hanger 11 -The noble and space saving design coordinates well with most fixtures and color schemes, meanwhile keeps all your hanging appliances organized. Processed with multiple plating technology and uniform polishing, the black bronze finished surface is glossy and anti-rust through daily using, low maintenance. Accented with eco-friendly and lead-free material, brass, and the durable construction, the rack ensures quality and longevity. It can be used in bedroom, kitchen, bathroom, toilet, kitchen, living room etc easily mounts to a wall with all hardware included. Perfect for hanging and organizing your face towels, bath towels, clothes and other accessories in order.

NEW 72 3 Tiers Free Standing Coat Hat Hanger Tree Rack Furniture

NEW 72 3 Tiers Free Standing Coat Hat Hanger Tree Rack Furniture -High quality and brand new chromed steel frame, durable and rust-resistance free standing heavy round base to keep the coat hanger stand sturdy totally 8 hooks bring plenty of stylish storage into your living space a functional coat hanger, also a great additional to home with a umbrella holder great for hanging hats, coats, scarves, handbags, backpacks, towels and other clothing items assemble required. Specifications material chromed steel overall dimension 118x118x716(lxwxh) diameter of round base 118 distance between floor to umbrella holder 232 product weight 12lbs package include 1 x coat hanger stand.

Mellewell 10 PCS Single Robe Hook Coat and Hat Hanger Closet Organizer in Flat Black, 13001B-10

Mellewell 10 PCS Single Robe Hook Coat and Hat Hanger Closet Organizer in Flat Black, 13001B-10 -Hook size approximately 15 w x 18 h. Ideal for use in bedroom, bathroom, closet, and office. Easy installation and easy handling, screws included. Made of solid zinc alloy for style and durability. Perfect hooks to display your favorite jewelry, keys, coats, hats, etc.

Vintage PINEAPPLE Fruits Strong Brass HOOK Coat, Towel, Hat, Hanger 4-1/4 long #C13

Vintage PINEAPPLE Fruits Strong Brass HOOK Coat, Towel, Hat, Hanger 4-1/4 long #C13 -Gorgeous interior / exterior pineapple wall hook, perfect on trend decor for your home. Notice pin in the back for extra support when mounted. Flamingo decor measures 4 1/4 long x 1 3/4 wide x 7/8 deep from wall. Price is for one hook only. Hook,coat,hat hanger. Usa seller,so no import problems. Very solid brass vintage pineapple fruit hooks,hanger.

Eco-Friendly Flamingo Wooden Wall Decor Wall Hook Coat Hat Hanger Baby Towel Organizer (Pink)

Eco-Friendly Flamingo Wooden Wall Decor Wall Hook Coat Hat Hanger Baby Towel Organizer (Pink) -Sturdy materials its sturdy enough to hold belts, hand towels or dog leashes its great at the front door for scarves, hats or keys. Perfect gift it makes for an excellent gift to friends, family, in weddings, and house warming parties. Multipurpose this wall mounted dcor doubles as a wall hanger or for simple decoration it can hold anything from hats, to jewelry, to scarves, and even tools. Perfect for any wall it goes great in bedrooms, kitchens, bathrooms anywhere where you can put it up, itll definitely look beautiful. Natural materials made from all-natural wood, these dcor are as safe as they are cute no harmful chemicals, no worries.

5-Hook Scroll Cast Iron Spanish-Style Wall Hook Rack Coat Hat Hanger

5-Hook Scroll Cast Iron Spanish-Style Wall Hook Rack Coat Hat Hanger -Approximate size 65 inches x 13 inches x 15 inches. Wall mount easy to mount with two screws/nails (not included). High quality made of high quality, dark brown cast iron. Spanish-style ornate scroll motif wall hook. Multi-use 5 hooks can be used for keys, coats, tools, etc.

Looching Pack of 4 Blue Water Drop Shaped Minimalist Design Wooden Decorative Creative Wall Mounted Coat Hat Hanger Hook-Ideal For Dressing Room Wall Decoration

Looching Pack of 4 Blue Water Drop Shaped Minimalist Design Wooden Decorative Creative Wall Mounted Coat Hat Hanger Hook-Ideal For Dressing Room Wall Decoration -Functioncan be used to hang your umbrella clothes coat hat bag accessoriesbesides,also can decor your room this is a good creative gift to your friend. package4 pieces are in one bag. Colorblue. Dimension224x224x374(57x57x95cm). Material100% new and brandmade of high quality synthetic resin,fashion,novelty and durable.

Metal 6 Hooks Wall Mount Holder Wood Coat Hat Hanger Rack Organizer

Metal 6 Hooks Wall Mount Holder Wood Coat Hat Hanger Rack Organizer -For use in foyers, entryways, hallways, closets and bedrooms. Holding capacity for this hook rail is 35 lbs when mounted into solid wood or wood studs. Includes mounting hardware and installation. The cocoa wood finish and soft iron hooks will compliment most home decors. 27 rail with 6 scroll hooks is one of our most popular combinations.

Mellewell Contemporary Bathroom Robe Towel Hook Coat and Hat Hanger Wall Mount, Polished Stainless Steel, 06CP10

Mellewell Contemporary Bathroom Robe Towel Hook Coat and Hat Hanger Wall Mount, Polished Stainless Steel, 06CP10 -Width 21 projection 22 height 21. Concealed screw mountingtools are included to simplify installation. Mellewell offers an elite selection of bathroom accessories that are guaranteed to exceed industry trends and revolutionize your home into a modern marvel. Solid stainless steel construction durability and reliability. Premier finishing process, warm polished stainless finish will resist rust and corrosion through everyday use.

OLizee 3 Pack Ball Shaped Minimalist Design Decorative Wall Mounted Wooden Coat Hat Hanger Hook (Primary Color)

OLizee 3 Pack Ball Shaped Minimalist Design Decorative Wall Mounted Wooden Coat Hat Hanger Hook (Primary Color) -Material wood. We include the needed hardware to install our coat hooks you simply make a hole in your desired wall and insert a wall anchor which is also included once you make a hole you simply screw them into your wall anchor. They are built from solid wood they also feature a protectant coating for extra beauty and durability the real looks may not be the exactly same as showing in the pictures due to the natural solid wood has unique grain on every unit. Wooden dowel coat hook is a great addition for any home beautiful and keeps your coats and belongings in order. Cylinder diameter (approx) 196 load-bearing 33 lb.

Xelue FF 4 PCS Stainless Steel Metal Over Door Hooks Kitchen Cabinet Closet Cupboard Bedstand Chifforobe Clothes Coat Hat Hanger Holder

Xelue FF 4 PCS Stainless Steel Metal Over Door Hooks Kitchen Cabinet Closet Cupboard Bedstand Chifforobe Clothes Coat Hat Hanger Holder -Over door hooks are great for storing your hats, coats, purses and more. We are brand new,well do better. Made of stainless steel, sturdy and durable,fits doors 1 3/4 or 1 2/5 thickheavy duty stainless steel hooks has the maximum loading capacity 15kg. Size(approx) 4cmx18cmx57cm/pc weight185g/pc . Hooks that wont damage the door and wont prevent it from closing,no drilling or tools needed.

EtechMart Oil Rubbed Bronze Black Single Hook Towel Coat and Hat Hanger Wall-Mounted

EtechMart Oil Rubbed Bronze Black Single Hook Towel Coat and Hat Hanger Wall-Mounted -It can be used in bedroom, kitchen, bathroom, toilet, kitchen, living room etc easily mounts to wall with mounting hardware included. Made of eco-friendly lead-free copper with solid and durable construction, ensures quality and longevity. This unit strikes just the right balance between form and function, unique and noble design adds an ornate flair to your bathing area or kitchen. With multiple plating technology and uniform polishing, the black bronze finished surface is glossy and anti-rust through daily using, low maintenance. Simple and space saving hook, perfect for hanging and organizing your face towels, bath towels, coats or any hanging appliance as you like.

GreenSun(TM) Clothes Hat Hook white Metal Over The Door 5 Hook Organizer Rack Clothes Coat Hat Hanger Organize

GreenSun(TM) Clothes Hat Hook white Metal Over The Door 5 Hook Organizer Rack Clothes Coat Hat Hanger Organize -And daily necessities like hats, bags, caps, scarves, coats, ties and more. Convenient 5 hooks design, a great option for organizing various items. 100% brand new and high quality over door hooks hanger. Ideal for most doors and closets or be used in hall entries, bathrooms, bedrooms, mudrooms and more. Such as accessories like keys, sunglasses, watches, small tools, etc.

Cast Iron 5 Hook Wall Mounted Coat and Hat Hanger Horse Theme

Cast Iron 5 Hook Wall Mounted Coat and Hat Hanger Horse Theme -Measures 1175 inches w x 625 inches h x 17 inches d. 5 hook decorative plaque for hanging items. Wall mounting hardware not included. Made from cast iron.

Cast Iron Moose Hook Wall Mount Door Head Coat Hat Hanger

Cast Iron Moose Hook Wall Mount Door Head Coat Hat Hanger -Hang clothing, keys, or other items from the cast hook. Cast iron with a decorative weathered patina. Brings a touch of the outdoors in to your home. Perfect for holiday gifts like weddings, christmas, or anniversaries. Mounts to wall with two screws (not included). Arplis - News source http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/Arplis-News/~3/u2BuaEmJ-zI/top-16-for-best-coat-hat-hanger

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plumbingcodestuff · 8 years

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Plumbing Terminology

From Frodo at http://www.plumbingforums.com/forum/showthread.php?p=88104#post88104

Glossary term sources:

http://www.horizonservicesinc.com/re...mbing-glossary

http://www.plumbingmart.com/plumbing-glossary-a.html

http://www.plumbinghelp.ca/terms/

ABS: Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene. A black plastic pipe used in plumbing for drains and vents.

Absorption Field: A leaching or seeping drain field engineered to receive septic tank effluent.

Adjustable Hot Limit Stop: Restricts hot water output in single control faucets and showers to protect against scalding by limiting the swing to the hot side.

Aerator: A screen-like insert screwed onto a faucet outlet. It mixes air with the flowing water to reduce splashing.

Air Admittance Valve: (AAV) Studor vent. Cheater valve. A plumbing device that replaces a traditional vent to allow air to enter the pipe and equalize pressure, preserving the seal of water in the fixture trap.

Air Break: (Drainage System). A piping arrangement in which a drain from a fixture, appliance or device discharges indirectly into another fixture, receptacle or interceptor at a point below the flood level rim and above the trap seal.

Air Chambers: Pressure absorbing devices that eliminate water hammer. They should be installed as close as possible to the valves or faucet and at the end of long runs of pipe.

Air Gap: (Drainage System). The unobstructed vertical distance through the free atmosphere between the outlet of the waste pipe and the flood level rim of the receptacle into which the waste pipe is discharging.

Air Gap: (Water Distribution System). The unobstructed vertical distance through the free atmosphere between the lowest opening from any pipe or faucet supplying water to a tank, plumbing fixture or other device and the flood level rim of the receptacle.

Air Lock: A bubble of air which restricts the flow of water in a pipe.

Anode Rod: A sacrificial rod installed in a water heater, composed of one or more metals that protects the tank from corrosion, helping to extend the life of the tank.

Auger (or Closet Auger): A bendable rod with curved end used by plumbers to remove clogs from a toilet’s trap.

Back Flow: When water traveling from one system backs into any part of the main distribution system, usually by siphoning.

Back Flow Preventer: A device to prevent back flow, especially into a potable water supply. Required for sprinkler systems, handheld showers, pullout faucet spouts, and kitchen sprayers.

Back Pressure: Pressure that resists the flow of fluid in a piping system.

Back-siphonage: negative pressure in the piping system which results in backflow. Commonly prevented with a vacuum breaker or air gap.

Backup: Overflow of a plumbing fixture due to drain stoppage.

Baffle:An object placed in an appliance to change the direction of, or slow down the flow of air, gases or water.

Balancing Valve: A water heater valve that controls water flow and balances heat distribution to different locations.

Ball Check Valve: A valve that uses a ball to seal against a seat to stop flow in one direction.

Ball Joint: A spherical assembly in shower heads that allows the head to pivot and rotate.

Ballcock: A valve in the tank of a gravity-operated toilet that controls refilling of the tank. It is connected to a float via a metal arm. After flushing, the toilet refills until the float rises high enough to shut off the valve.

Bathroom Group: Term to describe the common bathroom. One toilet, one sink, one bathtub/shower.

Bidet: A plumbing fixture similar in appearance to a toilet bowl used for personal hygiene. It is floor mounted, usually next to a toilet, and consists of a washing basin, faucet and sprayer.

Blackwater: Waste water from a toilet.

Bleed: To drain a pipe of excess air by opening a valve at the end of the pipe.

Blow Torch: A torch used by plumbers to solder pipes, activated by pressurized fuel and air to generate its flame.

Blowbag: A drain-cleaning device consisting of a rubber bladder with a hose fitting on one end and a nozzle on the other. The device attaches to a water hose and is inserted into a clogged drainpipe. As water is introduced, it expands to grip the pipe, and releases pulsating bursts of water through the nozzle, forcing water through the pipe to clear the obstruction. Also known as a blowfish.

Blowdown: Partial venting or draining, under pressure, of the water side of a boiler to reduce or remove unwanted contaminants. Also the pressure drops after releasing a pressure-relief valve.

Boiler: A sealed tank where water is turned to steam for heating or power.

Boiler Feed: A check valve controlling inlet water flow to a boiler.

Bonnet: The top portion of a compression valve assembly, it holds the valve in place as it is tightened against the valve seat at the other end of the assembly.

Brackish Water: Water containing bacteria between 1,000 and 15,000 ppm of dissolved solids.

Branch Vent: A vent pipe connecting one or more individual vents with a vent stack or stack vent.

Brass: Slang for faucets and fittings regardless of materials used.

Burst Pressure: The internal pressure that will cause a piece of tubing to fail.

Branch Drain: Plumbing fixture drain that leads to the main drain line.

Bushing: A fitting that’s threaded inside and outside that joins pipes of different sizes.

CC Connection: A term for a Copper Connection. (a shower water valve denoted as CC usually requires soldering).

Check valve: A device that allow flow in only one direction.

Circuit Vent: A vent that connects to a horizontal drainage branch and vents two traps to a maximum of eight traps or trapped fixtures connected into a battery.

Cistern:

a tank for storing water. (aka reservoir)

CPVC: Acronym for chlorinated polyvinyl chloride. A black plastic pipe that can handle high temperatures. Mostly used in water supply systems.

Cleanout Plug: A plug in a trap or drain pipe that provides access for the purpose of clearing an obstruction.

Closet Bend: A curved waste pipe fitting under a toilet that connects the closet flange to the drain.

Closet Flange: A ring that anchors the toilet to the floor and connects it to the closet bend. Also known as a Floor Flange or Toilet Flange.

Collar: A galvanized sheet metal restricting device used in conjunction with plastic pipe. Its function is to direct and control the intumescent action of the firestopping material.

Common Vent: An individual vent is permitted to vent two traps or trapped fixtures as a common vent. The traps or trapped fixtures being common vented shall be located on the same floor level

Compression Fitting: A kind of tubing or pipe connection where a nut and a sleeve or ferrule is placed over a copper or plastic tube and is compressed tightly around the tube as the nut is tightened forming a positive grip and seal without soldering. See Slip Joint.

Coupling: A short fitting used to join two pieces of pipe.

Cowl: A short fitting used to join two pieces of pipe.

Cross Connection: Any physical connection or arrangement between two otherwise separate piping systems, one of which contains potable water and the other either water of unknown or questionable safety or steam, gas, or chemical whereby there may be a flow from one system to the other, the direction of flow depending on the pressure differential between the two systems.

Crown Vent: A vent for a plumbing fixture in which the vent pipe is connected at the top of the curve in the pipe that forms the trap or within 2 pipe diameters of the trap.

Dam: A barrier in the trapway of a toilet that controls the water level in the toilet bowl.

Diaphragm: A flexible membrane in a valve that deflects down onto a rigid area of the valve body to regulate water flow from the supply lines. This eliminates the possibility of debris build-up within the valve.

Die: Cutting device used to thread pipe. A set of these attach to dieheads, and mounted on a threader.

Dielectric: A nonconductor of direct electric current.

Diffuser: A device used to reduce the velocity and increasing the static pressure of a fluid passing through a system.

Dip Tube: A tube inside the water heater that sends cold water to the bottom of the tank.

Disposal Field: (aka septic drain field) An area containing a series of one or more trenches lined with coarse aggregate and conveying the effluent from the septic tank through vitrified clay pipe or perforated, non-metallic pipe, laid in such a manner that the flow will be distributed with reasonable uniformity into natural soil.

Diverter: A faucet valve that redirects water from the tub faucet to the shower head.

Dope: A lubricant used by plumbers on pipe threads. Often called “pipe dope”.

Drain-Waste-Vent System: (DWV) A pipe system that drains wastewater from the bathroom and vents the drain system.

Drop Ell: An elbow having lugs for attaching it to a wall or joist. (aka Drop Elbow). Often used to connect supply line for handheld showerheads or sprayers.

Drum Trap: A type of water seal-type trap usually used in the 4x5-inch or 4x8-inch sizes. These traps have a greater sealing capacity than the "P" trap and pass large amounts of water quickly. Commonly connected to bathtubs, foot baths, sitz baths, and modified shower baths. No longer allowed in many jurisdictions due to not being self-scouring.

Effluent: Septic system liquid waste.

Effluent Treatment System: Physical, chemical, and biological processes are used to remove contaminants and produce treated wastewater that is safer for the environment.

Elbow: A curved fitting, usually 90° or 45°, used to change the direction of a pipe run. Also called an “ell.”

Escutcheon: A decorative metal flange or plate that covers and hides the supply line hole in the fixture or wall.

Ferrule: A ring, cap, or band (typically metal) that strengthens or forms a joint.

FIP: (aka FTP or Female Pipe Thread) Acronym for Female Iron Pipe (or Female International Pipe). Describes a pipe or fitting with threads on the interior.

Fitting: Any part that joins together two sections of pipe. Comes in many shapes, sizes & connection styles. Examples: elbows, couplings, bends, wyes, etc.

Fixture: Anything that accepts or discharges water or wastewater: faucets, sinks, toilets, tubs.

Flange: The rim or edge at end of a pipe shaft that aids in connecting it to another pipe or anchoring it to a surface.

Flapper: A rubber flap with ball-like shape in the bottom of a toilet lifts to allow flushing and seals off the tank for refilling. Allows water to flow from the tank into the bowl.

Flex Coupling: A rubber fitting that uses steel band clamps to attach to the pipe ends. Mostly used to join sections of DWV pipe, but also connects PVC to clay or cast iron pipe.

Flow Control Valve: Device designed to reduce water flow to a plumbing fixture. Often used to improve efficiency and reduce operating costs.

Flow Rate: Measurement of water flow through a plumbing system in gallons per minutes (GPM) or gallons per hour (GPH).

Flood-Level Rim: The edge of a plumbing fixture or receptacle over which water would flow if it were full.

Float Ball: A floating device connected to the ballcock inside the toilet tank to activate or shut off the ballcock.

Flush Valve: A device located at the bottom of the tank for flushing water closets and similar fixtures.

Flushometer Valve: A device that discharges a predetermined quantity of water to fixtures for flushing purposes and is closed by direct water pressures.

Flux: A jelly-like substance used in soldering copper pipes and fittings. Applied before soldering to aid bonding and prevent oxidation.

French Drain: (also trench drain, filter drain, blind drain, rubble drain, rock drain, drain tile, perimeter drain, land drain, French ditch, sub-surface drain, sub-soil drain or agricultural drain) is a trench filled with gravel or rock or containing a perforated pipe that redirects surface water and groundwater away from an area.

Galvanizing: The process of applying a coating of zinc to the finished product to provide corrosion protection. The coating can be applied by hot dipping or electrolytic deposition.

FUBAR: Acronym for F***ed Up Beyond All Recognition"

Gasket: Flat device usually made of fiber or rubber used to provide a watertight seal between metal joints.

Gate: A device that controls the flow in a conduit, pipe, or tunnel.

Gate Diverter: The pop-up lever on a tub faucet that activates the diverter valve.

Gauge: The thickness of stainless steel and is commonly used in reference to quality grades on certain types of lavatories and sinks. 10 and 20-gauge stainless steel sinks go through a number of polishing and buffing operations to ensure a beautiful finish.

GPF: Stands for Gallons Per Flush. The rate of water flow by which toilets and flush valves are measured and regulated. Current law requires maximum of 1.6 GPF. Older styles were usually 3.5 GPF.

Gravity Operated Toilet: A toilet which relies on the natural downward pressure of water in a toilet tank to flush the toilet effectively.

Grease Trap: A device that captures grease entering a system before it reaches the sewer lines. Usually used in commercial applications such as restaurants or cafeterias.

Greywater: aka sullage. All wastewater generated in households or office buildings from streams without fecal contamination, i.e. all streams except for the wastewater from toilets.

Groundwater: Water held underground in the soil or in pores and crevices in rock.

Hard Water: Natural water containing impurities in various proportions. Traditional hardness is a measure of calcium, minerals or dissolved solids in a solution, measured in parts per million. Hard water generally ranges from 100 to 250 ppm.

Hanger: A device used to support pipes.

Hose Bibb: Sillcock. An outdoor faucet, also used to supply washing machines.

IAPMO: Acronym for International Association of Plumbing & Mechanical Officials®

ID: Stands for “inside diameter.” Measures the inside width of a pipe.

Impeller: A rotating wheel with vanes found inside a centrifugal pump. As it spins at high speed it draws fluids in and thrusts them under pressure to the discharge outlet.

Individual Vent: Individual vent permitted. Each trap and trapped fixture is permitted to be provided with an individual vent. The individual vent shall connect to the fixture drain of the trap or trapped fixture being vented.

Interceptor: A device for separating grease and oil from drainage systems.

IPC: Acronym for International Plumbing Code

IPS: An acrynym for Iron Pipe Straight thread. A shower valve denoted as IPS uses non-tapered straight-threaded fittings (see NPSM).

IRC: Acronym for International Residential Code

Jet Pump: A pump in which a small jet of steam, air, water, or other fluid in rapid motion lifts or otherwise moves by its impulse a large quantity of the fluid with which it mingles.

kPa: A metric unit for pressure. 100 kPa = one atmosphere.

Lavatory: Bathroom or washroom sink.

L Tubing: An industry standard for copper tubing defined by the tube wall thickness and identified by a “blue” strip. Type “L” copper tube wall is approximately 50 percent greater thickness than type “M”.

Leach Lines: Pipes that carry effluent from the septic system out to the leach field, a porous soil area where treated waste is emptied.

Leader: An exterior drainage pipe for conveying storm water from roof or gutter drains to the building storm drain, combined building sewer, or other means of disposal.

Low Consumption Toilet: A class of toilet designed to flush using 1.6 gallons of water or less. Also known as “water-saving” toilets.

M Tubing: An industry standard for copper tubing defined by the tube wall thickness. Identified by a “red” stripe.

Maceration: the use of a machine that reduces solids to small pieces in order to deal with rags and other solid waste. Also, macerating toilets, which use a grinding or blending mechanism to reduce human waste to a slurry, which can then be moved by pumping.

Main: The primary artery of the supply or drain system to which all the branches connect. Referred to as the Main Vent in the vent system.

Manifold: A fitting that connects a number of branches to the main; serves as a distribution point.

MaP score: Maximum Performance score. Represents the number of grams of solid waste (soybean paste and toilet paper) that a particular toilet can flush and remove completely from the fixture in a single flush.

Mapp Gas: A colorless, flammable gas made by combining liquefied petroleum gas with Methylacetylene-Propadiene. It is a stable, non-toxic fuel used in brazing and soldering.

MCL: Maximum Contaminant Level – The maximum level of a contaminant allowed in water by federal law.

Metal Fatigue: A breakage of the metal caused by the bending and flexing or the expansion and contraction of a metal part beyond its endurance limit.

MIP: (aka MTP or Male Pipe Thread) Acronym for Male Iron Pipe (or Male International Pipe). It describes a pipe or fitting with threads on the exterior.

Nipple: A short piece of pipe installed between couplings or other fittings.

No-Hub Connector: A connector for no-hub iron pipe consisting of a rubber sleeve and a stainless steel band secured by hose clamps. A variation, a neoprene sleeve with two adjustable steel bands, is used for connecting dissimilar materials, as when connecting new plastic pipe to an existing cast-iron drainpipe.

Non-ferrous: Not containing iron.

NPS: Acronym for Normal Pipe Size.

NPSM: An acryonym for National Pipe Straight Mechanical. Indicates straight / non-tapered threads on pipes and fittings. NPT: An acronym for National Pipe Thread. Indicates tapered threads on pipes and fittings. NSPC: Acronym for National Standard Plumbing Code.

O-Ring: A rubber washer that is round instead of flat. Used in valve stems to create a watertight seal.

Oakum: Loosely woven hemp rope that has been treated with oil or other waterproofing agent; it is used to caulk joints in a bell and spigot pipe and fittings.

OD: Stands for “outside diameter.” Measures the outside width of a pipe.

Offset: The term used to describe a pipe that connects two parallel pipes. Some offsets in a drainage system may require an offset relief vent.

Overflow Hood: On a bath drain, the decorative hood concealing the overflow.

Overflow Tube: The vertical tube inside a toilet tank that directs water into the bowl in case the ballcock malfunctions and prevents potential water damage caused by a tank overflow. A constant running condition alerts the user to an overflow problem. On most toilets, the overflow tube also has a refill tube flowing into it, which directs water from the ballcock through the overflow tube to the bowl, after a siphon break.

P-Trap: A trap with a vertical inlet and a horizontal outlet. The bend and trap arm make the shape resemble the letter "P".

PB: Stands for polybutylene. A bendable plastic tubing most often used to supply water to bathroom fixtures.

PE: Stands for polyethylene. A flexible plastic supply line.

Percolation: Part of the water cycle that occurs after precipitation and before storage during which water filters down through aerated soil due to gravity. After percolation, water is stored in groundwater reservoirs until it reaches a point where sunlight warms it and the water evaporates.

Percolation Rate: Environmental Engineering Dictionary. The rate, usually expressed as a velocity, at which water moves through saturated granular material.

Perforated Pipe: Pipe designed to discharge water through small, multiple, closely spaced orifices or nozzles, places in a segment of its circumference for irrigation purposes.

PEX:Stands for cross-linked polyethylene. A flexible plastic supply line that is stronger than PE. In bathrooms, it is used for water supply lines.

Pickling: Immersing pipe into acid bath for removal of scale, oil, dirt, etc.

Piezo Switch: The electronic switch the bather uses to control the whirlpool and optional heater. This switch, based upon the piezo-electric effect, generates a voltage when pressure is applied to it.

Plumber’s Putty: A dough-like putty that seals joints between fixture surfaces and metal pieces, such as the drain.

Plumbing Snake: A thin, flexible length of spiral-wound metal, which is inserted into a drain and rotated to clear anything that is clogged in the pipes.

Plunger: A rubber, silicone, or plastic suction cup attached to a handle used to free drain clogs. Also known as a “plumber’s helper”.

Pneumatic: Pertains to devices using compressed air.

Pop-Up Drain: Remote control drain assembly. Also known as a “trip lever drain” for tubs.

Positive Air Pressure Attenuator (PAPA): Used in conjunction with AAVs. system developed to resolve the problems of positive pressures (transients / back-pressure) within the drainage systems of multi-story and high rise developments.

Potable: Water that is suitable for consumption.

Pressure Balance Valve: A shower valve that monitors fluctuations in pressure to maintain balance between hot and cold water so that temperature remains constant.

Pressure Head: Pressure in a plumbing system. The unit of measure which is the vertical force exerted by water at a depth of one foot.

Pressure Tank: A container designed to hold gases or liquids at a pressure substantially different from the ambient pressure. This is often used in conjunction with a water pump to control water pressure in a well system.

PVC: Stands for polyvinyl-chloride. A rigid white plastic pipe used for bathroom drain, waste and vent pipes.

Reducer: A fitting that allows pipes of different sizes to be joined together.

Relief Valve: A valve that opens to relieve excess temperature and/or pressure in the system.

Relief Vent: Where the horizontal branch is located more than four branch intervals from the top of the stack, the horizontal branch shall be provided with a relief vent that shall connect to a vent stack or stack vent, or extend outdoors to the open air.

Return: A plumbing fitting with a 180-degree bend.

Re-Vent: A re-vent or revent pipe in a plumbing drain-waste-vent or DWV system is an auxiliary vent that is attached to the drain pipe close to an individual plumbing fixture. The re-vent or revent pipe is routed upwards above the fixture and then horizontally over to a tee that attaches it to the main stack vent pipe. At the fixture the revent pipe can connect immediately behind the plumbing fixture or it may be connected close to the fixture along a horizontal drain line that serves that fixture.

Riser: A supply line pipe that rises from one story to the next; also the short vertical pipes that bring water from the branch to the fixture.

S-Trap: Trap design which routes drainage vertically down through the floor to connect with the drainage waste vent (DWV).

Saddle Tee: Fitting that taps into the side of a pipe, used to make quick connection to an existing line.

Saddle Valve: A valve mounted on a pipe run by a clamping device, or saddle tee to provide a water supply for a low-demand device.

Sanitary Tee: San-T. Sani-Tee. A tee used as a fitting for a soil pipe; designed with a slight curve in the 90° transition so as to channel flow from a branch line toward the direction of the main flow.

Scald Guard: A valve designed to prevent extreme water temperature changes through pressure balance technology. When there is a drop in hot or cold water pressure, the scald-guard valve shifts back and forth behind the shower handle to compensate for the sudden change. This valve maintains a constant water temperature to help give you and your family a safe and enjoyable bathing experience.

Scale: A thin coating or layer, usually calcium on the bottom of a tank or interior parts that may prevent heat transfer.

Schedule: Numbers assigned to different wall thicknesses of pipe (e.g. sch 40).

Sediment: The substance that settles on the bottom of a water tank. Also known as lime.

Septic D-Box: Septic Distribution Box. A container used to receive septic system effluent from a septic tank and to re-distribute the effluent into a network of attached drain-field or soakaway bed absorption trenches & pipes.

Septic Tank: A tank used to detain domestic wastes to allow the settling of solids prior to distribution. Septic tanks are used when a sewer line is not available to carry them to a treatment plant.

Service Partner Plan (SPP): The Horizon Services Service Partner Plan (SPP) is a great way to be sure that in case of an emergency, you are guaranteed the priority service you deserve as a valued customer. Benefits, include, priority service for plumbing, heating and air conditioning calls (routine or emergency), a 15% discount on all repairs, and no additional charge for overtime or emergency calls!

Sewerage System: A system comprising all piping, appurtenances, and treatment facilities used for the collection and disposal of sewage, except plumbing inside and in connection with buildings served and the building drain.

Shattaf (aka Diaper Sprayer): Handheld bidet sprayer mounted near a toilet and used to wash excrement from the body or soiled diapers.

Shower Arm: Shower trim component that delivers water to the showerhead. Usually 1/2" NPT. The shower arm connects showerhead and water supply line behind a finished wall of the shower enclosure.

Shutoff Valve: Valves installed under sinks and toilets used to shut off water supply in the event of a malfunction or repair. Also called an Angle Stop, Straight Stop or Supply Stop.

Siphoning: The suction or pulling effect that takes place in the trapway of a toilet as it is filled with outgoing water and waste.

Sleeve: A pipe which is passed through a wall for the purpose of inserting another pipe through it.

Slip Joint: A telescopic joint between two parts that permits the parts to move in a lengthwise direction. Often used for P-traps under lavatories and sinks. It allows a raw end of pipe to slide into the threaded end of a fitting and secures with a threaded ferrule such as a slip nut. Slip Nut: A ferrule with a threaded hole through it for screwing onto a pipe as a fastener. It is used in conjunction with a washer or gasket to form a slip joint.

SNAFU: Acronym for Situation Normal All F***ed Up

Soft Water: Water that has been treated so that it has low mineral content.

Solder: A metal alloy that is melted to create a fused joint between metal pieces. Also the act of melting solder into the joint.

Soil Pipe: A pipe that carries waste from toilets.

Stack Vent (vent stack): A vent pipe that extends from the top of a soil-or-waste stack and connects to vent header or terminates outside.

Standpipe: a vertical pipe extending from a water supply, especially one connecting a temporary tap to the main.

Storm Sewer: A sewer used for conveying rain water, surface water, condensate, cooling water, or similar liquid waste.

Street Ell: A 90° elbow joint with a hub on one end and male threads on the other. Used to make an angled connection between pipe or tubing and a fitting with a hub.

Stub-Out: Short lengths of pipe installed during rough-in to which fixtures and drains will eventually be installed.

Sump: A pit or pool for draining, collecting, or storing water. A chamber which provides water to the pump. A tank or pit that receives sewage or liquid waste, located below the normal grade of the gravity system and that must be emptied by mechanical means.

Sump Pump: An automatic water pump powered by an electric motor for the removal of drainage, except raw sewage, from a sump, pit or low point.

Sump Vent: A vent from pneumatic sewage ejectors, or similar equipment, that terminates separately to the open air.

Sweating: Another term for soldering a pipe or joint for the purpose of sealing a new joint or mending a fault.

Sweep: A pipe bend fitting used in drains to permit smooth passage of waste.

T&P Valve: Temperature and pressure valve. A valve that opens to release excess pressure and temperature in a system.

Tailpiece: The section of pipe that runs between a fixture outlet and the trap.

Tee: A plumbing fitting in the shape of the letter “T,” used to connect three sections of pipe.

Tee Fitting: A fitting that allows another pipe to be joined at a 90-degree angle.

Teflon Tape: White tape made of fluorocarbon polymer. It has non-stick properties and is wrapped around pipe threads in a joint to create a tight seal.

Trap: A curved section of drain that traps a small portion of water to prevent sewer gases from escaping into the bathroom. “P” traps and “S” traps are the types of traps most commonly found in bathrooms.

Trap Adapter: Features a hub and slip joint connection and provides a means for adapting a solvent weld connection to a slip joint connection.

Trap Arm: the pipe between the trap weir and the vent pipe.

Trap Weir: The point on a trap where water will begin to flow down the trap arm.

Trap Seal: The water in a trap or toilet that prevents sewer gases from escaping back through the drain.

Trip Lever: Flush handle and actuating arm on a toilet tank. Also the lever that opens and closes the drain on the bathtub waste and overflow.

Turbidity: Water cloudiness caused by suspended particles.

Union: A three piece fitting that joins two sections of pipe, but allows them to be disconnected without cutting the pipe.

Urinal: A plumbing fixture which receives only liquid body waste and conveys the waste through a trap seal into a gravity drainage system.

Vacuum Breaker: An anti-siphon device that prevents the back flow of contaminated water into the water supply system in the event of a negative pressure condition.

Valve: A device that regulates the flow of water.

Valve Seat: The immovable portion of a valve. Water flow is stopped when the movable portion of the valve comes in contact with the valve seat.

Vanity: Bathroom cabinet with a wash basin set in the top.

Vent: A vertical or sloping portion of drain pipe that allows sewer gasses to escape from the house into the outdoor air and lets air into the drain system to keep air pressure balanced and prevent water in traps from being siphoned off.

Water Filter: A device that removes impurities by lowering contamination of water using a fine physical barrier, a chemical process, or a biological process.

Water Hammer Arrestor: A device installed near a fixture to absorb the hydraulic shock that happens when a fixture’s supply is suddenly shut off, causing water hammer, a loud banging noise in the pipes.

Water Service Pipe: The pipe from the water main or other sources of potable water supply to the water-distributing system of the building served.

Water Softener: A device or substance that softens hard water by removing certain minerals.

Wax Ring: A seal located between floor flange and toilet to prevent leakage and fumes.

Weeping Tile: An underground pipe designed to convey ground water away from a structure. Also known as Subsoil drainage pipe.

Wet Vent: A pipe that both drains wastewater and vents air into the drains. Connects two or more fixtures.

Wye Fitting: A drain fitting that allows one pipe to be joined to another at a 45-degree angle.

Yoke Vent: A pipe connecting upward from a soil or waste stack to a vent stack to prevent pressure changes in the stacks.

#glossary #plumbing terms

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