#ww1 dress

[pastlivesfinery]

Les Modes, 1917

[cringeborg]

Kerstin Evening Dress

A fashionable dress suitable for wild nights out and weddings alike, named after the most glamorous woman of all: my dog. Sort of inspired by a dress from Downton Abbey, but not really. Thanks to @mrtri91 for inspiring me to make it in the first place.

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Formal, Party

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[queenlucythevaliant]

Also for the record, the whole White Witch-enchanted food thing still would have worked regardless of when the story was set. Kids like sweets, especially magic ones that symbolize temptation. The WW2 sugar rationing is not the pivotal element here

[vikkicomics]

A Dutch and a Deutsch. Here Prussian Officer Major Isenstein is chatting up a Flemish girl. He's an energetic and flirtatious character. -Concept art for Moth.

[jackmkelly]

alex prakken and jeremy jordan la dee dah with you is something that will never leave my mind btw

[multifandomaceflux]

So... I've noticed a severe lack of wartime Watson fanart (I might be wrong tho)

Either way, I decided to do something about it :)

Just one teeny problem, I have absolutely no idea of how the uniforms were during the Second Anglo-Afghan War. So you get WW1 AU Watson instead.

In arduis fidelis.

[humboldtidecomics]

Summer's day at Zoppot

Outfits I designed for Siegfried and Peter's summer trip to Zoppot, an East Prussian Seaside Resort town, which is Sopot, Poland today.

Siegfried has a lot of flamboyant, self-conscious, tailored suits, while Peter dresses in German-Baltic folk style. to reflect his interest in the peasant revolts, and lack of care for how others might judge him. Here is an excerpt from the script wip.

[paperworkanddogs]

i can't believe you. i can't believe you did this to me.

Luise was trying to organize porters in the chaos of the old house, and Resi was smack in the middle of it, asking stupid questions. Turning halfway to her older sister, she gave a bored glance. "I don't have control of everything," she pointed out as she wrapped a small statue in newspaper.

"And why do you care so much? It's not like you won't be able to keep your Catholic ways, keep going to mass as you please"

[fixtheaxel]

She turned off reblogs so imma address it here.

NOT EVERYONE IS WHITE/WESTERN

YOU DUMBASS

When you mean 'societally acceptable', what you actually mean is

'normalised in western culture',

And that, was because of the 19th century dress reform movement. Also, overwhelmingly because it was a tool of feminist rebellion. Women were arrested en-masse, for wearing trousers in WW1, and yet they continued to do so, the clothing becoming an increasing point of protest, because before then, 'feminine' clothing, was extremely long skirt which were an actual danger to the female factory workers who were legally obligated to wear them.

The reason a similar movement did not be made for men, is because the male standard clothes were practical and not a legitimate physical danger. So the average man did not feel the need to protest these restrictions.

In fact men did not start using skirts/'feminine clothing' as a tool of rebellion en masse till the LGBT Rights movement.

On the other hand, feminine clothing has been GLOBALLY used as a TOOL OF OPPRESSION.

The modern day western world is one of the only places in World History, for perhaps all of human history, where men's clothing is more greatly monitored then women's. `

I will not mention the country where I am originally from because I feel like I've already said waaaaaay too much about myself online, and i'm paranoid.

But women and those AFAB are currently being shot dead in the streets of my country by morality police for- Not even wearing men's clothing- but just simply wearing SLIGHTLY TOO 'MASCULINE' (practical) CLOTHES.

So don't sit there in your fucking privilege and talk about how femininity in those AMAB is a more transgressive concept than masculinity in AFAB people.

Some of yall really need to learn about people outside your limited ass sphere

[meteorologears]

A thing they don't tell you about drag (aside from how physically taxing it is) is that the adrenaline does most of the work. Can I do a handstand into a back bend normally? No. Can I do it spontaneously in front of 60 people in a tie and fishnets? Apparently yes.

Another successful night of being a drag king

[mazzystar24]

Hi guys and welcome to Addie’s research spiral into the gay moustache:

Moustaches have always been a symbol of masculinity, sexuality and social standing

Like legit dating back to the 1800s we had the whisker and beard movement which started pushing the idea that facial hair can be masculine and sophisticated and not just a sign of lacking in morality and uncleanliness like the victorians used to think and you can actually draw a direct line to men feeling threatened to the patriarchy in those times and the prevalence of facial hair- this assertion of dominance and masculinity being seen similarly in ww1 soldiers, where facial hair became the accepted norm then post ww1 it went out of style again then this cycle repeats again with most wars.

There is also within the later 1800s and early 1900s links to sexuality and rebellion because younger men not having a full beard and instead having clean shaven faces or moustaches was seen as a sign of rebellion against older generations , also the need for maintenance of this style made it viewed as effeminate

Someone put it as the moustache has always been tied with the three fs: fops, foreigners and fiends meaning it was perceived that men would need to be well groomed or gay, foreign (particularly from Latin countries) or lacking in morals and evil to have a moustache

Okay so the origin of the gay moustache aside from the connection to the well groomed element

So post stonewall riots the gay moustache became a real thing like one qoute I found that was funny was arnie kantrowitz saying it was a requirement in the gay community, you needed a a flannel shirt, mustache or beard, bomber jacket, jeans and boots. We were dressing like the blue-collar men that turned us on." And a lot of it stemmed from what was dubbed the Castro clone look

Okay so Freddie was not in fact the originator of the Castro clone look

The castro clone look basically took all the really masculine and macho staples and made it extremely gay

The look originally being inspired by the men of the Castro neighbourhood in San Francisco in the early 60s and THAT actually comes from the “greaser”/hood look inspired by the 50s Italian American men and Latinos who also their subculture was born from their stereotypes

The Castro clone look doesn’t have one distinct origin but its popularity was fuelled by gay artists like Tom of Finland, and musicians like the village people and Freddie and gay pornstars like al Parker

And Parker was one of the big names in the Castro clone look this in particular not only explains the reason for his look well but also peep the “pouring beers over eachother” line and let me take you back to bachelor party buddie

And now I hear the republican man and Gerrard mentions and to that I say that’s the whole point of it

Like the hypermasculinised look was meant to not only play the macho aesthetic and be a form of queer signaling but it was also meant to subvert gay men stereotypes by instead doing this like extreme portrayal of masculinity

It’s drawing from straight men but making it’s undeniably queer

Like wife beaters, moustaches, denims and flannels were so tied to het males that they took that and still found a way to make it so undeniably queer that it became a form of queer signaling

Thus taking the power away from the macho hets and forming a new subculture

The gay moustache only started seeing its end around the 80s AIDS epidemic because the moustache aimed to make a person look older but as queer communities became more sick or perceived as unclean or sick the need to look clean and young grew and clean shaved faces became the trend again

So Eddie having the moustache isn’t some tie to Gerrard or straight people it’s actually so queer coded and a form of rebellion

And btw this isn’t even a niche thing it’s like a widely known queer thing to the point that one show got slammed for having a gay club scene set in that time and not having any Castro clones in it

[pastlivesfinery]

Paris Élégant, 1916

[plumbob-pudding]

During the 1890s and the early twentieth century, infants, no matter their sex, were dressed in long white gowns that could be bleached cleaned. This fashion remained the same until WW1 as rationing meant that hemlines shortened. Bonnets remained common accessories though the hair bow gained popularity for baby girls in the 1910s.

By the 1920s, baby fashion in line with adult clothing, was sailor inspired and hemlines crept higher up. This trend continued to the 1930s as the great depression meant fabric was scarce and expensive. In fact, for poorer families, infant clothing was handmade with whatever was available, including flour sacks and old curtains.

The 1940s meant WW2 and any sort of elaborateness was very frowned upon. Fabrics were cheap cottons and almost always recycled and knit clothing rose in popularity.

Prosperity and affluence defined the 1950s and this was reflected in baby clothing. Baby boys were dressed similar to older men in little suits with shorts instead of long pants and little girls in full, babydoll dresses. This era also established the stereotypical blue for boys;pink for girls that remains till today.

[allastoredeer]

Do you have any headcanons about Alastor's participation in WW1? The Selective Service Act of 1917 made it mandatory for men aged 21-30 to register for military service and was later expanded to include men as young as 18, so if the stream saying that Alastor was late thirties to early forties when he died is still canon he'd have lived through that

So, I hadn't gotten to this part in my development of Alastor's backstory, but it got me thinking because, huh, how DID Alastor manage to get out of that?

Unless he just served in WW1. Which...I find oddly funny. I don't know why, but the the image of Alastor in the trenches...

But anyway, you got me curious so I looked into it. You're 100% right about the Selective Service Act of 1917 making it mandatory for men aged 21-30 to register for military service, and they even came up with different "classes" of the men who qualified, and if they exhausted one class, they'd go down to the next.

However, even with the Selective Service Act, there was still a lot of draft evasion going on. In fact, a significant amount of draft evasion happened in the South, which, as I'm sure you know, Louisiana is part of (some of it was in part of Southerners not having documentation, and thus, unable to even legally draft, which would probably give them a whole other slew of problems).

So, I was looking into how people evaded the draft. A lot of it is split up into different groups, like draft avoidance and draft resistance, with their only little list of things, but that's a lot and I don't wanna get into all of that. But my bet is on Alastor doing draft avoidance.

And there were actually quite a few interesting ones, like:

Claiming to have a mental or psychological problem (if you could find a doctor willing to certify that for you)

Student deferment, when someone is primarily in school to learn and study (or obtaining one in an effort to avoid the draft)

Deliberately failing the military intelligence tests

Professing sincere or religious ethical beliefs (join a church, avoid the draft!)

Bribery

and my personal favorite:

Being homosexual.

Because, as you know, the government can't allow the gay in the military!

And look, I'm a silly goober, so of course I immediately went to Alastor claiming to be homosexual. But the thing is, I kind of do think that is something Alastor would do for a majority of reasons.

In the 1920's, social values were evolving, and a lot of postwar "youths" began questioning traditional concepts of family, sexuality, and gender. There were "little Bohemia's" around the US, including in Manhattan and San Francisco, with communities and groups like this, and they weren't exactly unknown.

Back to Alastor, he lived in the French Quarter in New Orleans (or, at least, that's where I think he lived as a majority of mixed-raced Creole people lived there, which we know Alastor canonically is). And it just so happens, that it became the birth place of New Orleans gay community in the 1920's. There were entire gay neighborhoods, there were clubs where people dressed in the clothing of the opposite gender, they had parties and bars, and while it wasn't "the norm" to live this "lifestyle," and there was still a lot of harassment, it was still fairly normal to see. (Of course, then came what we can call the "gay panic" where government started cracking down on it, and claiming the gay community were all predators and pedophiles, and - well, you know. You know.)

But that was after/close to Alastor's death, so...

Anyway, I 100% believe that Alastor did take part and lived in communities like those. Names and labels for those things didn't exist at the time, so it's not like he knows what they're called, but homosexuals, cross-dressing, drag queens, they were normal to him. He's lived with them, partied with them, maybe even tried a few things out himself(so many headcanons, guys. So many).

This is to say, I think Alastor would 100% be comfortable claiming to be homosexual to avoid getting drafted. You've seen getting married for tax benefits, now consider becoming gay for draft evasion! I actually had a pretty fun talk about it with a friend in Discord, which only cemented it in my mind LMAO.

I have SO many headcanons around Alastor and him living in the French Quarter, in gay communities, where they challenged social norms (and we all know how he feels about challenging status quo's 😏)

But if not that, my runner up is that he totally bribed his way out of it. I don't know how he got the money, maybe he killed someone and stole their wallet, IDK, but bribery is a yes from me.

And if not THAT one, then he joined and church and claimed to have sincere religious and ethical beliefs �� 🙏 (Yes, this is inspired by Nun Alastor, and no, I do not take constructive criticism. That's what happened guys, I was there). Besides, New Orleans was pretty Catholic, I'm sure he could find a church somewhere.

That's my take on it XD I think the one closest to Alastor's canon character would be bribery, but this is fandom, and if I say he claimed to be gay to get out of going to war, then goddammit he claimed to be gay to get out of going to war.

[vikkicomics]

WIP; Otto and his twin sister Brunhild in Pomeranian folk dress w/ golden apples. Block colours done.

[ihaveforgortoomany]

Discussing Isolde's new garment "And all that Jazz" as an evolution of her original and insight 2 Outfits

Consider this a continuation of an earlier post with greater focus on the similarities of Isolde's new garment to her previous two and how they tie to her character development in Ch. 6 (this is global friendly)

(spoilers for just Chapter Six )

In short her new garment in 2.1 can be considered the development of her character post the events of Ch.6.

The outfit we met Isolde in, the white one, signifies Isolde's previous repression of herself, her outfit similar to Trista in the Small Room story. While this sprite was used to depict young Isolde primarily, we can say that this more resembles Trista and how Isolde especially in her younger years was haunted and tormented by Trista. Isolde's boss the Mezzo takes a similar appearance to her original outfit than the insight 2 Tosca one, here again Isolde is repressed and allows Trista to possess her during the fight.

(Side note: Trista probably is the most powerful Dittasdorf in terms of the family's arcane powers, plus the fact that she died during a seance at a young age, became this relentless spirit that even years beyond her death continues to torment Isolde and as seen with her boss fight possess her)

Moving onto her insight 2 outfit this signifies the release of the repression, the inner self as Isolde peforms Tosca, kills Mr Karl, jumpstarts WW1 months earlier and proceeds to kill both Heinrich and Hoffman. Unlike the outfit she no longer has a veil obscuring half her face, a much smaller one signifying that loss of repression of desires.

Ignoring the green highlights and feathers clearly alluding to Kakania, the upper "jacket of the outfits does appear to mimic Kakania's jacket/ blazer or the ruffle on Isolde's first outfit, the overall sliver colour of the "And all that Jazz" garment calls back to her original outfit in being a darker shade, no longer is Isolde tied down by societal expectation of Vienna and acts freely (within the limitations of the Foundation ofc).

Both the low cut in her dress and the headpiece both reference to her insight 2 outfit, alongside her new voicelines signifies further this freedom from previous repression that Kakania (regardless of how much it did backfire) gave her. Yet despite this freedom was remains alone.

Additional note: in this new garment the knife is replaced with a cane that features very prominently. The cane has been historically seen as a overt status symbol of wealth and power, in comparison to a knife that would be easily concealed. We can speculate how Isolde in her younger years in the Small Room was thought to be meek and not stand out by Mr Karl, who eventually dies by Isolde's hand by a knife, no longer repressing any part of herself. What is noticable is that both Mr Karl and Isolde in her new garment dominantly hold the cane in their left (looks on the right to us and Mr Karl's is largely covered below) . We can speculate Isolde now possessing a cane reflects her increased power no longer under the repression of others (noteable ones being Mr Karl and Trista) instead able to act on their own, yet still cling to Kakania at the same time.

(Idk if it is the same cane Isolde is using as Mr Karl as I can't find a full spite of him but it would be interesting if it was, signifying her own triumph over the man who tormented her over the years to take his symbol of power)

Even her posture/ default stance is different: the previous outfits have a more reserved posture aiming to make herself the smallest in the room (does this count as a pun) whereas her new garment has her in a more confident and powerful pose, more open and empathises the cane again.

Summary - it is fascinating how her new garment doesn't seem like just an Opera Singer turned Jazz singer, instead a progression of her character following the events of Vienna as someone who while has escaped the torment and societal pressure is not truly free of that pain and trauma, but nevertheless no longer represses herself in the same way as before.