#when to harvest Swiss chard

[rachilbing]

Learn how to harvest Swiss chard with ease! Discover the best time to harvest, essential techniques, and tips for maximizing yield in this comprehensive guide. Whether you're a beginner or a seasoned gardener, unlock the secrets to enjoying fresh, nutritious Swiss chard from your garden to your kitchen.

[fcukfodmap]

Instant Pot Low-FODMAP Gluten-free Wild Rice & Coconut Soup

I'm from Minnesota and reside in wild rice country, so I've cooked a lot of wild rice over the years. It all tends to be pretty hotdishy though: lots of mushroom casseroles, the ubiquitous wild rice soup, etc. So when I ran across this recipe which put together coconut and wild rice, I was like, this is happening. It ended up really good, made excellent leftovers, and my mom even asked for the recipe, which is super unusual. Without further preamble:

Instant Pot Low-FODMAP Gluten-free Wild Rice & Coconut Soup

8 oz Swiss chard, stems chopped fine, leaves cut into 1 1/2 in pieces

2 tbsp grated fresh ginger

1 serrano chile, stemmed, seeded, and minced

1 tbsp tomato paste

2 tsp turmeric

1 1/2 tsp garam masala

1/4 tsp cayenne

4 c vegetable broth

2 14-oz cans of coconut milk

1 c wild rice

1 tomato, chopped

1/4 c fresh cilantro, chopped

lime wedges

vegetable oil, salt, pepper

Heat 2 tbsp oil in Instant Pot until shimmering, then add the chard stems and cook until softened. Add ginger, diced chile, tomato paste, turmeric, garam masala, cayenne, and 1 tsp salt and cook for 30 sec or so to bloom. Stir in broth and one of the cans of coconut milk. Lock lid in place and pressure cook on the highest setting for 30 minutes.* Turn off Instant Pot and quick release the pressure.

Turn the saute function on, stir in second can of coconut milk and chard leaves, and cook until the chard wilts, about 5 minutes. Turn off heat. Stir in the tomato and cilantro and season with salt and pepper. Serve with lime wedges.

*An aside on wild rice. Wild rice is harvested from lakes and parched so that it can be stored. The parching process can result in considerable variation in how pliant or dry the rice ends up. I had a batch that was extremely hard, so I added another 10 minutes to the pressure-cooking time. The rice should fluff out when it's tender enough to eat, kind of like the way popcorn fluffs out of the dry popcorn kernel. (Wild rice and corn are closely related plants.) Do not use either quick-cooking or precooked rice in this recipe.

The one ingredient which might give you FODMAP trouble is the broth. Most commercially made broths have onions and/or celery in them, which is verboten. I tend to feel pretty YOLO about broth because it's mostly salt and water. Which, coincidentally, could be what you substitute for the broth if you don't want to risk it.

I haven't really cooked with serrano peppers before, and I wasn't over-wowed by its inclusion here. Honestly, I couldn't taste it. If I had to do again, I'd use a jalapeno or two instead. Even said, this was pretty great, and I'll be making this again for sure.

Disclaimer: I am no dietician. I'm doing my best to minimize FODMAPs in my diet, but it's possible for me to be misinformed or mistaken about various ingredients.

[disabled-dragoon]

Gardening with A Disability

Everyone answering my gardening questions has been so helpful and kind. It's made me feel a lot better than when I started the week, but I've reached a point where I'm getting quite a bit of advice thrown at me all at once and it's getting difficult to keep track of it all, so I'm going to note it all down here!

Recommended Plants:

Mint, Tomatoes (Regular, Cherry), Cucumber, Radishes, Strawberries, Peppers. Aubergines, Potatoes, Squash, Lettuces, Chard (Swiss), Beets, Spring Onions, Garlic, French Beans (Specifically Dwarf French), Carrots, Kale, Spinach, Onion, Celery, Bush Beans, Blueberries, Bok Choy, Zucchini, Edible Flowers, Sunflowers, Green Beans, Currants, Lavender, Thyme, Rosemary, Oregano, Sage

Methods:

Fabric Pots

Raised Beds* I was pointed towards Vego garden beds as a starting point. They are quite expensive but I think it's still worth a look to see what you might consider with raised beds.

Trellises

Gallon Buckets

Grow bags in inflatable kiddie pools with a few holes drilled inches from the bottom

Bottomless Pots

Grow Tents and Greenhouses

Nursery Plants

Vertical Grow Towers* Was helpfully linked to this site.

Soil and hay bales

Soaker hoses on the topsoil of small raised beds

Grow bags in bins or on low tables, in 1-2 inches of water

Using a grabber to weed

Long handled tools

Things to Note:

Someone recommended if growing potatoes not to do them in pots as you generally have to lift the pot and tip it over to harvest them.

You can specifically get "container-sized" varieties of plants.

If looking into growing squash and cucumber in pots, look for "bush" varieties, or get "short and wide" trellises for the vines so they're not on the floor.

Big pots for aubergines.

Vertical grow towers are useful because they spin and you can adjust the height, but the price is a bit expensive.

Peppers and aubergines do well in 4-5 gallon buckets.

Cherry tomatoes, cucumbers and potatoes do well in 5 gallon buckets. You can grow blueberries in 5 gallons as well if they are of a "bush" variety

Bush beans do well in window boxes.

You can grow beets in window boxes but they might not get as big.

Strawberries grow well in 1-2 gallon buckets, and can be rooted into other buckets for more plants.

Bok Choy grows great in 2-3 gallon buckets and a "slightly shady" spot.

Containers need more consistent watering and fertilizer than ground plants.

"Lettuce in a “cut and come again” variety should be pretty easy to maintain but do prefer cooler weather".

Apparently immature sunflower heads are edible.

Thyme, rosemary, oregano and sage don't need much watering. Neither does lavender if outside.

Get a bag of soil specifically for container growing.

Buy already established plants and put them in containers larger than maybe necessary.

[jensownzoo]

Just want to show off my cold frames this year as they're working very well so far, though I have pinpointed a major flaw in the construction that I'm going to have to correct eventually.

So this year instead of making one long cold frame on the south-facing porch that left me with very little room to maneuver (resulting in a lot of shimmying and gut-sucking), I instead put in two smaller ones on either side.

Here's the side that faces outwards:

Consisting of a large scavenged single pane window gently but firmly tapped into place (with a rubber mallet and a lot of "please don't breaks") against the railing. They are wedged and will not be removed when the season is over.

And here's the side that faces inward:

The bottom layer are Tidy Cats litter buckets filled 3/4 of the way with water and wrapped in black plastic contractor bags. They provide thermal mass along with the concrete porch floor. Then I have more scavenged windows and some screwed together landscaping beams to hold everything together. Cracks are filled with styrofoam panels, roll foam (the kind that comes with window ac units), and wadded up plastic grocery sacks. There are still enough openings for ventilation, but the warmed air is mostly retained.

Here's what I've got growing in one of the frames:

A small earthbox of mesclun mix, a Tidy Cats bucket of salad spinach, a large earthbox of Swiss chard.

And another Tidy Cats bucket of kale mostly obscured by the small earthbox of green onions.

In the second frame I have more spinach and chard plus some cos-type lettuce.

The big flaw in this design? When I lift the top panels off to access the contents I cannot reach the stuff in the Tidy Cats buckets or large earthboxes! The inner wall is too tall and my arms are too short. What I should have done is put the earthbox on two thermal mass buckets and the planted Tidy Cats buckets on top of a few layers of bricks. I may still do that if we get a run of warmer weather (stamps feet 'cause I don't wanna), but I may be able to swing harvesting using some long scissors and a pair of chopsticks. We'll see. If this design continues to work well then it's definitely something to change next fall.

[thestudentfarmer]

Hello and Good day,

Today I wanted to give some garden updates!

⭐️Things that have Sprouted ⭐️

🌱Dill. ��Cilantro l

🌱Jerusalem artichokes (sunchokes)

🌱Melons (sugar baby) 🌱 Honeydew (Barnyard mix)

⭐️Planted & Direct seed⭐️

🌻Ginger root. 🌻Gladiolus bulbs

🌻 Swiss chard 🌻Carrots

🌻Green beans (bush variety, Blue lake) 1st planting. (4 planned in total)

I still need to plant a few more things but currently I'm held back by lack of wood, soil and the rising heat coming in. Thankfully the sun's staying out later now too, so that should be useful

Also

my Plans currently for those curious about the beans planting cycle. As I mentioned intentions is 4 total plantings.

When the greens beans 1st planting sprouts and is a little more grown, I'll be seeding the other side of the bed with more beans, same variety. 2nd planting, when they sprout, i intend to direct seed the space around the 1st planting with a few more bush type, with a third planting to try and draw out our homes' fresh harvest. (Plus, if the first doesn't do so well, we'll at least be able to hopefully still see some sort of harvest)

_____________ _______________

Also thought this was pretty cool and wanted to share, as ya'all know I've been growing broccoli and letting it go to seed.

I cut, collected and set aside the branches si thought closest to having usable seed and~

Found ladybugs!

This one's fresh hatched I believe, some of the hatched ones were red, but most seemed a bright orange (like when butterflies emerge and dry out)

I've never seen the stage between the ladybug gator and the ladybug too. Figure most haven't, particularly those in urban and inner city areas.

This one was just resting next to the empty shell.

Some lady gators chilling. They look a bit spooky but at this stage they eat more aphids than in the adult stage. And as I learned from a web search they eat more than just aphids??

Apparently they eat aphids, scale insects, insect eggs, mealy bugs, leaf hoppers and cornworms among others? Which awesome if so!

Even if the great broccoli seed experiment doesn't work this year or next I'll likely leave a few up again, even if solely for the ladygators and future ladybugs and other beneficials in the garden.

We also found what we believe might be a buckmoth caterpillar? We aren't absolutly certain given everytime I've seen 'em, it's on a hollyhock and not what is their usual food sources? It is Possible a bird brought it over for a snack and went blegh too lol.

We know at least bare minimun it's a stinging type of caterpillar so we'll be cautious as we proceed with care of the Hollyhocks.

That's it for now, Thanks for stopping by :)

🌱🍃Happy Homesteading and Gardening🍃🌱

4.29.2024

[balkanradfem]

Alright so, and I promise this is funny, I have been dealing with severe deficiency in 'making plants grow successfully'. It's going worse than any year but I'm also having a lot of fun with it, because I'm no longer discouraged by baby plants dying, I'm already germinating the next batch and I know I'll be just fine.

This year's weather has been so nice, gardening wise! We didn't have a crazy hot February like the last few years, it's been very frosty in fact, so that the trees didn't flower too soon and I love that for us, that is the promise of fruit, and also making me feel a bit more at ease that the weather, for now, isn't hectic.

The middle of March was nice and sunny, and I felt encouraged to put my baby plants outside, just for an hour or so every day, so they would get used to direct sunlight. I also noticed some of my baby plants turning purple, and I thought, AHA! Nitrogen deficiency, I can fix this by fertilizing them, so I did, a bit too much maybe, because 3 days later half of my tomatoes, and a bunch of other plants sadly died. Some of the plants actually showed signs of getting burned by the sun, but only after the 3rd day they were outside! You're telling me sun was fine for 2 days but then the 3rd day it was just too bright and you had to expire??

Some of the plants that did well initially, also ended up outside when it was, a bit more windy than they could handle. And I wasn't even home, by the time I got home, the plants were already lying horizontally, unable to fight the violent weather.

And this is funny because I take all of these risks every single year and I never had this many of them pan out badly, and never had this amount of seedlings die, but truth be told I do plant too many tomatoes every single year and I should maybe tone it down, 70% of my meals are tomato based at this point (it's so easy to conserve), and I should focus more on some beans and pumpkins.

So anyway, since seedlings are not vibing, I finally gather my senses to go to the actual garden one day, because I'm thinking, there will be cabbage savoy there, and spinach probably grew a bit by now, maybe I can have some fresh spinach! Maybe swiss chard grew and I could eat that, maybe there's a carrot that germinated and would make me happy.

So I bike to the garden and as soon as I get there I realize that everything I was hoping to harvest just went to seed. Two weeks I've been too sick and dealing with medical issues, and I couldn't check on the garden, and 2 days of warm temperatures and everything said bYE and went to make seeds?? The rapid change took me completely by surprise, I didn't think things would go to seed while we still had frosts. I stubbornly picked the cabbage deciding to just eat the little flowerbuds and leaves anyway, the flowers didn't open yet so with a bit more prep time, it's all edible. My spinach went to seed as well, the traitor. It's March!!!

As discouraging as all of this sounds, this is incredible for learning, because now I know that every single thing on this list has a good chance of happening this time of year, and I'll be able to make better choices next time. In fact, if all of this didn't happen now, it would probably happen any year from now on and I wouldn't be ready or expecting it. Next time I'll get all those cabbages before the sun touches them. I'll try growing spinach in the fall when it won't go to seed as easy, and I'll think twice before taking 3-4 risks at once with baby seedlings.

The baby seedlings who survived all this are the victors who are strong and resilient and probably can't be killed by any of my bad choices. Even if I have slightly less plants, I'll have the most powerful plants. The last batch I've planted seems to be growing rapidly, because the weather is light and warm now, and I've planted some flowers I've never had before! I'll have tansy on my garden, for the first time ever.

[ediblegardenspointloma]

Easy From Seed Vegetables

The content of this blog post is from Home Garden Seed Association. It’s an excellent resource for home gardeners. They promote gardening from seed as the easy, natural and economical way to garden. Their website provides well researched and useful articles about how to garden from seed. Need inspo?

Beans, Beets, Cucumbers, Kale, Peas, Radishes, Salad Greens, Squash, Swiss Chard

Most of the vegetables typically grown in a home garden can be sown directly in the garden soil. These include salad greens of all kinds—lettuces, mizuna, arugula, spinach, and mustards—as well as beans and peas, root vegetables, summer and winter squash, and cool season cooked greens like kale and chard.

First, prepare the garden bed, loosening the soil and incorporating plenty of compost. Then, simply follow the guidelines below. In just weeks, your bountiful, delectable summer harvest will begin!

Left to right: Bean seedling, lettuce seedlings, chard seedling

Beans may be pole beans, or they may have a bush habit. In either case, wait until nighttime temps stay consistently above 50ºF to sow. For bush beans, poke seeds into the soil about an inch deep and 4 inches apart in rows that are about 1½ feet apart. Two sowings, about 3 weeks apart, will extend the harvest. For pole beans, be sure set up the trellis prior to planting time.

Beet seeds are actually clusters of seeds. Once danger of frost has passed plant them about an inch apart and ½ inch deep—and don’t be surprised if clumps of seedlings emerge. Thin them to about 2 inches apart when they are an inch or two tall, and again as the plants develop. When plants are 3 inches apart and plump enough for your purposes, you can harvest some at the baby stage, allowing others to enlarge.

Cucumbers will be set back by cold nights, so wait until nighttime temps stay above 50ºF. Sow 5 or 6 seeds, covered by an inch of soil, in a low mound, and thin to the 3 best plants as they start to develop. In a small garden, you can grow cucumbers up a trellis or fence.

Kale seeds can be sown in early spring, about 2 inches apart and ½ inch deep. Thin plants to about 12 inches apart when they are 3 to 4 inches tall, using the thinnings in salads. Begin harvesting outside leaves when plants have at least 6 sets of leaves. A second kale sowing in late summer will provide greens into the winter.

Peas, especially edible-podded peas, are a productive spring crop. They require some support, so plant seeds next to a fence or erect a structure to support them before planting. Sow seeds an inch deep and 2 to 3 inches apart in early spring. Generally, no thinning is needed.

Radish seeds can be sown in early spring, spaced 1 inch apart and covered with ½ inch of soil. Thin them early to 2 inches apart to give them room to develop. Rather than planting a big row, sow small amounts a week apart for a continuous harvest.

Salad Greens, planted thickly in wide rows, can be harvested two or even three times. Make successive small sowings until the weather turns hot for a steady supply of baby greens. Beginning in early spring, broadcast the seeds so that they fall about an inch apart and cover with ¼ inch of soil. Firm gently and keep the bed evenly moist. Harvest with scissors when they are 4 to 5 inches tall, and allow the plants to regrow.

Squash will be set back by cold nights, so wait to plant until nighttime temps stay above 50ºF. Sow 4 or 5 seeds in a low mound, covered by an inch of soil, and thin to the 2 best plants as they start to develop. Summer squash, such as zucchini or patty pan, are tender and tasty when harvested young, no larger than 6 inches. If you have the space, you can also plant summer and winter squashes in staggered rows.

Swiss Chard seeds, like beets, are clustered seeds. Sow them ½ inch deep and 2 inches apart once danger of frost has passed. Thin the seedlings when they develop two sets of leaves and add the thinnings to salads. Final spacing should be 12 to 15 inches apart.

[turtlesandfrogs]

I think a good first step is to notice what edibles and natives are already incorporated into landscaping, and just ignored. Here, for example, commercial landscapers plant our native evergreen huckleberry, which has much to recommend it, both as a "landscape" plant and edible: evergreen, easy care, subtle flowers, berries that ripen long after others, native as mentioned so supporting native animal species, tasty, humans and others enjoy the fruits. Yaupon holly isn't native here, but it's still used and is non-invasive while providing caffeine and theobromine(!), evergreen, pleasantly bland looking for fitting right into whatever landscape already exists. People plant rosemary, sage, sweet bay, lavender, etc for aesthetics but they're all very tasty too, obviously. Elderberries are gorgeous, and used all the time. My city planted chestnuts, and a lot of people go and forage for them (more so during bad economic times, but still). Also things that are food crops, but don't look like food crops: sunchokes, a species of daylily, camas, rhubarb, artichokes, cardoon, native strawberries, etc. Asparagus is a really neat looking plant. Scarlet runner beans are beautiful, and attract hummingbirds, while also making beans. Snow peas are also very pretty vines.

For vacant/neglected land, it's great to learn what invasives, weeds, and tough & abundant natives are edible. Giant knotweed, Himalayan blackberries, yarrow, etc fill-in-your-plants-here. Also it's great to go around pulling out invasive species because people will just think you're a really committed environmentalist, and you can harvest other edibles while you're at it. Be doubly sure about the land history though, don't want to unknowingly be picking from a superfund site! And for goodness sake, be sure of your ID! I've seen people mistake Oregon grape (native) for English holly (invasive) before, and you don't want to be that person.

With tubers/roots especially, you need to know the history of your soil and/or get a soil test for heavy metals. There are ways of improving polluted soil, and certain plants/parts of plants have less or no contamination. Cornell has a pdf available for free titled "Soil Contaminants and Best Practices for Healthy Gardens" which has a lot of good information, please do read it if you're gardening or foraging in urban areas.

From experience, landlords often have no clue and don't care if things are grown in pots/incorporated into existing landscaping. A big pot with Swiss chard, lettuce, kale, etc can look pretty aesthetic. Apartment complex often have edible invasives and/or the above mentioned edible and/or native plants- and nobody picks them.

You can also learn to graft, and graft fruit bearing varieties onto existing ornamental varieties- crab apples, pears, cherries, plums, etc.

A lot of people just straight up ignore plants, and a lot of people have no clue what food looks like if it's not in a store or restaurant. Use this to your advantage. I have seen landscapers look at a plant that clearly doesn't belong (invasive spurge laurel, for example, which is neither a surge nor a laurel), or is growing up through another (hazelnut through a rhody), and just completely ignore it, watering, fertilizing, and pruning them just like the rest. The ones most likely to do this are the ones that "prune" everything to be a cube or sphere though, so keep that in mind. What can still produce food when whacked into a cube? A few things. Also, look for the edges and backs, and places where the landscapers let things slide a little because they figure the clients won't ever look there.

Another big thing that gets ignored is that a single fruit tree often provides much more fruit than a small family will reasonably eat, and often a tree was planted literally decades ago and the current residents don't care about it's fruit. I've gotten loads of figs, apples, pears, grapes, etc just by asking- or by offering to make them a fruit crumble from their fruit tree if they let me pick as much as I want. Back alleys get invaded by out of control raspberries, blackberries, walnuts, etc.

@guerrilla gardeners, solarpunks and plantarchists of all stripes we need to make a good guide to growing food stealthy style

i'm talking growing in rental properties without alerting the landlord, growing on vacant/unused land, stuff like that

[trickstarbrave]

already planning for what im gonna plant this fall and winter for the garden. hoping i can squeeze some beans in for a fall harvest. also gonna try and get in some kale and lettuce when the tomatoes start dying back (lord help me some of them weren't done until nov last year) as well as some garlic to overwinter. the swiss chard did rly well last year in the winter so im hoping these guys will too. we dont get many frosts and its usually above freezing during the day so im hoping they do well.

OH i also wanna try brussel sprouts. and im thinking of picking up more calendula seeds for next year. i can start them late winter and get them in the ground to establish a little before the others i think. they had a bit of trouble establishing this year i think

[sad-gremlin-hours]

I'm losing my mind in the best way! I picked up watermelon seeds at my local public library's seed library even though I don't have anywhere to plant them.

They've sprouted so I've been trying to find somewhere to offload them, and no one wants them.

Well, I drove past the community garden, and there was a man working on his plot so I stopped and asked if he wanted them.

YALL TELL ME WHY THIS MAN TRADED ME A HANDFUL OF HIS SWISS CHARD HE WAS HARVESTING FOR TWO OF MY SPROUTS

This is what I mean when I say I want community

[bunnycart52]

Exploring the Fascinating World of Hydroponic Plants: A Guide to Plants That Thrive in Water

Benefits of Growing Plants in Water: Before delving into the specific types of plants that can be grown in water, let's explore why hydroponic gardening has become increasingly popular among enthusiasts. Growing plants in water offers several notable advantages:

Efficient Nutrient Delivery: In a hydroponic system, plants receive essential nutrients directly from the water, ensuring efficient nutrient uptake and utilization. This often results in faster growth rates and higher yields compared to traditional soil-based gardening.

Water Conservation: Hydroponic systems typically require less water than conventional soil-based gardens since water is recirculated within the system rather than being lost to evaporation or runoff.

Space Efficiency: Hydroponic systems can be designed to maximize space utilization, making them ideal for urban environments or areas with limited gardening space.

Reduced Risk of Pests and Diseases: By eliminating soil from the equation, hydroponic gardening reduces the risk of soil-borne pests and diseases, leading to healthier plants and lower maintenance requirements.

Types of Plants That Grow in Water: Now, let's explore some of the most popular types of plants that thrive in water-based environments:

Herbs: Herbs such as basil, mint, cilantro, and parsley are well-suited for hydroponic cultivation. They thrive in water-rich conditions and can be grown year-round indoors.

Leafy Greens: Lettuce, spinach, kale, and Swiss chard are excellent choices for hydroponic gardening. These leafy greens grow vigorously in water and can be harvested continuously for a steady supply of fresh produce.

Vegetables: Certain vegetables, including tomatoes, cucumbers, peppers, and beans, can be successfully grown hydroponically. With the right nutrient solution and environmental conditions, these plants can produce bountiful harvests.

Flowers: Some flowering plants, such as African violets, peace lilies, and begonias, can thrive in water-based environments. These plants add beauty and color to indoor spaces while requiring minimal maintenance.

Ornamentals: Many ornamental plants, including lucky bamboo, pothos, philodendron, and spider plant, can be grown hydroponically. These plants are prized for their aesthetic appeal and air-purifying properties.

Tips for Successful Hydroponic Gardening: To maximize success when growing plants in water, aquarium online  consider the following tips:

Use a Suitable Growing Medium: While plants in hydroponic systems primarily grow in water, they often benefit from a supportive growing medium such as perlite, clay pellets, or coconut coir.

Maintain Proper Nutrient Levels: Regularly monitor nutrient levels in the water and adjust accordingly to ensure plants receive the essential elements they need for healthy growth.

Provide Adequate Lighting: Supplemental lighting may be necessary, especially when growing plants indoors. Choose high-quality grow lights that provide the appropriate spectrum for photosynthesis.

Monitor pH Levels: Maintain the pH of the nutrient solution within the optimal range for the specific plants you are growing. pH levels that are too high or too low can inhibit nutrient uptake and lead to nutrient deficiencies.

Prevent Algae Growth: Algae growth can be a common issue in hydroponic systems exposed to light. To prevent algae buildup, use opaque containers or coverings to block out light and maintain water quality.

[amaryllislifecycle1]

Edible indoor plants

Introduction: Imagine being able to step into your kitchen and pluck fresh herbs or fruits from your own indoor garden to enhance your culinary creations. With edible indoor plants, this vision can become a reality. Whether you have a spacious kitchen or a cozy apartment, there are numerous edible plants that thrive indoors, providing both flavor and freshness year-round. Let's delve into the world of edible indoor plants and discover how you can bring a taste of the outdoors inside your home.

Herbs: Herbs are perhaps the most popular choice for indoor edible gardening due to their compact size, aromatic foliage, and versatility in cooking. Basil, rosemary, thyme, mint, and parsley are just a few examples of herbs that can thrive indoors. Plant them in well-draining pots with ample sunlight, and you'll have a constant supply of fresh herbs to elevate your dishes.

Microgreens: Microgreens are young, tender seedlings of edible vegetables and herbs that are harvested when they are only a few inches tall. They are packed with flavor and nutrients, making them a popular choice for garnishes, salads, and sandwiches. Common varieties include arugula, radish, broccoli, and mustard greens. Grow them in shallow trays or containers near a sunny window, and you'll have a continuous supply of vibrant greens in just a few weeks.

Citrus Trees: While traditional citrus trees may be challenging to grow indoors due to their size and light requirements, dwarf varieties such as Meyer lemon, Calamondin orange, and Key lime are well-suited for indoor cultivation. These compact trees not only provide fresh, tangy fruit but also add a touch of tropical elegance to edible indoor plants spaces. Place them in bright, sunny locations and ensure adequate drainage to keep them thriving.

Chili Peppers: For spice enthusiasts, growing chili peppers indoors can be a rewarding endeavor. Compact varieties such as Thai chilies, jalapeños, and habaneros are well-suited for indoor cultivation. These fiery peppers not only add heat to your dishes but also bring vibrant colors and flavors to your indoor garden. Provide them with ample sunlight, consistent watering, and well-draining soil, and you'll be harvesting spicy peppers in no time.

Salad Greens: Leafy greens such as lettuce, spinach, kale, and Swiss chard are excellent choices for indoor cultivation, providing a constant supply of fresh, nutritious greens for salads and sandwiches. These fast-growing vegetables thrive in containers or shallow trays with ample sunlight and regular watering. Harvest the outer leaves as needed, and your indoor garden will continue to produce tender greens throughout the growing season.

Conclusion: Bringing edible indoor plants not only adds flavor and freshness to your culinary endeavors but also enhances the beauty and ambiance of your home. Whether you're growing herbs on a sunny windowsill, cultivating microgreens on your kitchen counter, or nurturing citrus trees in your living room, the possibilities for indoor edible gardening are endless. Embrace the joy of growing your own food indoors and savor the delicious rewards that come with it.

[bethanyhamiltonsstuff]

Can Hamsters Indulge in Watercress? A Tasty and Nourishing Treat for Your Furry Companions

Can Hamsters Eat Watercress? Watercress, a delightful aquatic plant belonging to the Brassicaceae family, boasts tender green leaves and a hint of peppery flavor. It emerges as a potential treat for your hamsters, packed with crucial nutrients like vitamin K, vitamin C, calcium, vitamin A, manganese, and the notable PEITC antioxidants.

Getting Acquainted with Watercress

Can Hamsters Eat Watercress? Absolutely, but in moderation. This leafy green brings essential nutrients to the table, elevating your hamster's well-being when served in small, occasional portions. However, maintaining a balanced diet is key—let watercress be a delightful addition, not the main course.

The Perks of Watercress for Hamsters

Uncover the benefits your hamsters can reap from savoring a bit of watercress:

Vitamin K: Fosters blood coagulation and bone metabolism.

Vitamin C: Amps up immune function and collagen production.

Calcium: Assists in building robust bones and teeth.

Vitamin A: Sustains healthy vision, skin, and coat.

Manganese: Supports growth and acts as an antioxidant.

PEITC: Showcases antioxidant, anticancer, and anti-inflammatory effects.

Can Hamsters Eat Watercress? The distinctive mix of vitamins, minerals, and phytochemicals in watercress can be a wholesome addition to your hamster's diet.

Potential Pitfalls of Watercress for Hamsters

However, tread carefully around potential risks:

Its high vitamin K content may clash with specific medications.

Excessive consumption could lead to digestive discomfort or loose stools.

Larger doses might influence thyroid hormone levels.

Relying solely on watercress could trigger nutritional deficiencies.

Wild-harvested watercress may harbor parasites.

Can Hamsters Eat Watercress? To navigate these concerns, introduce watercress gradually and limit their indulgence to 1-2 times per week. Serve in small, enticing portions.

Signs of Watercress Overindulgence

Can Hamsters Eat Watercress? Keep an eye out for signals such as diarrhea, reduced appetite, increased thirst, lethargy, hair loss, or swelling. If you suspect overconsumption, seek prompt veterinary attention.

Feeding Watercress: A How-To Guide

Can Hamsters Eat Watercress? Yes, but with caution:

Restrict to 1-2 times per week.

Provide pieces no larger than 1 inch.

Chop into bite-sized bits or opt for dried watercress flakes.

Monitor closely during the introduction phase.

Exploring Alternatives and Supplements

Can Hamsters Eat Watercress? Absolutely, but consider other leafy greens like romaine lettuce, carrot tops, Swiss chard, endive, and arugula. Premium hamster foods from reputable brands like Oxbow, Supreme, and Vitakraft can also complement their diet.

In conclusion, Can Hamsters Eat Watercress? Yes, but moderation is the golden rule. Introduce this treat cautiously, and your hamsters will savor the occasional taste of this nutritious delight.

[jensownzoo]

Thought I'd throw up some pics of the cold frame I slapped together on my south-facing front porch.

It's mostly made from windows I scavenged this year. There's a bank of them snugged up against the front railing, there are ones on each side held in place with cinder blocks, and the one in back is resting on what I'm using for thermal mass.

It's a row of those Tidy Cats litter tubs filled 3/4 up with water and stuffed into black plastic contractor bags. The plastic bags not only help with the absorption of solar heat, but also fill in the spaces between the tubs. They're only filled 3/4 full because they're inevitably going to freeze at some point--some will crack at the bottom seam but most will make it. I do have plans to go out this weekend on a Styrofoam panel scavenging mission--you know, after people blow all their money on new tvs and stuff on black friday and throw the packaging away. Then I'll insulate the back of the thermal shelf to direct the heat all inward.

The top is just a shower door plus a small window. I can shift/lift them for harvesting and watering.

I've got two regular sized Earthboxes and two smaller in there. The smaller ones are on the ledge and the larger are on the concrete. I've got several lettuces, several spinaches, Swiss chard, and some teeny kale seedlings going. The kale is teeny because the @#@^=$_!! midnight wildlife tore apart the initial transplants when I first planted them in the boxes back in September and I had to restart from seed.

It took me a solid month to work up the energy to put this all together, but only an hour or two to construct. Thankfully, autumn seems to be on a one month delay this year except for one or two short dips below freezing. Looking forward to at least a weekly salad for as long as we don't have another "arctic blast" like we did last year.

[thuzycheebum]

Can Hamsters Enjoy Watercress? A Delectable and Nutritious Delight for Your Furry Friends

Can Hamsters Eat Watercress? Watercress, an aquatic gem in the Brassicaceae family, with its tender green leaves and peppery taste, stands out as a potential treat for your hamsters. Loaded with vital nutrients such as vitamin K, vitamin C, calcium, vitamin A, manganese, and the noteworthy PEITC antioxidants, watercress can be a healthy addition to their diet.

Introducing Watercress

Can Hamsters Eat Watercress? Yes, in moderation. This leafy green can contribute essential nutrients, enhancing your hamster's well-being when offered in small, periodic servings. However, it's crucial not to let watercress dominate their diet—just a nibble here and there.

Benefits of Watercress for Hamsters

Discover the advantages your hamsters can gain from indulging in a bit of watercress:

Vitamin K: Supports blood coagulation and bone metabolism.

Vitamin C: Boosts immune function and collagen production.

Calcium: Aids in building strong bones and teeth.

Vitamin A: Maintains healthy vision, skin, and coat.

Manganese: Facilitates growth and acts as an antioxidant.

PEITC: Exhibits antioxidant, anticancer, and anti-inflammatory effects.

Can Hamsters Eat Watercress? The unique blend of vitamins, minerals, and phytochemicals in watercress can be a wholesome addition to your hamster's diet.

Potential Risks of Watercress for Hamsters

However, be aware of potential risks:

Its high vitamin K content might interfere with certain medications.

Excessive consumption may lead to digestive issues or loose stools.

Larger doses could impact thyroid hormone levels.

A diet solely based on watercress may result in nutritional deficiencies.

Wild-harvested watercress might harbor parasites.

Can Hamsters Eat Watercress? To sidestep problems, introduce watercress gradually and limit consumption to 1-2 times per week. Always provide small portions.

Signs of Watercress Overindulgence

Can Hamsters Eat Watercress? Keep an eye out for signs like diarrhea, decreased appetite, excessive thirst, lethargy, hair loss, or swelling. Seek veterinary attention promptly if you suspect overconsumption.

Feeding Guidelines for Watercress

Can Hamsters Eat Watercress? Yes, but in small, controlled portions:

Limit to 1-2 times per week.

Offer pieces no larger than 1 inch.

Chop into bite-size bits or use dried watercress flakes.

Monitor closely during the introduction phase.

Explore Alternatives and Supplements

Can Hamsters Eat Watercress? Consider other leafy greens like romaine lettuce, carrot tops, Swiss chard, endive, and arugula. Quality hamster foods from brands like Oxbow, Supreme, and Vitakraft can also complement their diet.

In conclusion, Can Hamsters Eat Watercress? Yes, but moderation is key. Safely introduce this treat, and your hamsters will relish the occasional taste of this nutritious delight.

[balkanradfem]

Here's all of the baby plants I found in the garden in early March:

Tiny baby swiss chard planted in the fall, it should start growing properly when it gets warm. Spinach already seems super ready to grow.

These are broccoli, they haven't gotten established properly, so I doubt I'll be able to harvest anything, I planted them way too late in the fall. I'll try them again next year. Strawberries, on the other hand, have started growing new leaves and getting ready for the spring!

I've also found some onions, garlic, leek and chives growing, and some small but very pretty cabbages!

I doubt they will manage to form a head, but I can just eat them as they are and be pleased because they're fresh and tasty. I'll let them grow for a bit longer. I just need to harvest them before it gets warm because they will try to go to seed.