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Aged Forest Mulch  | Dynamic Tree Solutions
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Aged Forest Mulch is a natural material that decays over time. Unlike fresh mulch, it doesn’t drain nitrogen from the soil, making it safe to use in and on top of the soil. It enhances the soil and has  a richer color as well as finer texture, making your garden look polished. For more information  you can contact us.
Visit our website:-  https://dynamictreesolutions.com.au/
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thetreecareguide · 2 years
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7 Tree Care Tips for Property Owners
Need help keeping your trees from becoming hazards on your property? Understanding some basic tree care techniques will help prevent your trees’ sickness, destabilization, and death.
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thetreecareguide.com gathered some essential tips to help property owners give their trees the best care so they thrive and stay healthy well into maturity.
1. Tree Selection
When searching for the “perfect” tree, you’ll want to look for one with a straight trunk. Trees that grow into large shade trees should have a strong central leader (trunk) with branches evenly distributed around it. Consider the following when selecting a tree:
Size (knowing the mature height and spread of trees can prevent multiple landscape problems)
USDA Hardiness Zone (A crucial consideration when selecting trees is their cold hardiness)
Pest Susceptibility
Soil Requirements
Tip: Send a soil sample to your state’s university extension for testing. This will reveal the soil’s nutrient content and availability, pH value, microbial activity, etc. This test will guide you if any soil adjustments are needed for healthy tree growth.
2. Tree Planting and Location
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Trees can be planted anytime, as long as you can dig an adequate planting hole. If the ground is frozen, it’s better to wait for the thaw. Generally, the more time between planting a tree and the beginning of summer, the better (that makes fall the best time to plant new trees). Early spring is another popular planting time as well. Consider the following when planting your tree:
Dig the hole (2 to 3 times wider than the diameter of the tree's rootball)
Massage, loosen, and trim the roots
Place the tree in the center of the hole
Fill in the hole
Build a wide soil berm (this will help when watering your tree)
Stake and tie the tree
Water the tree thoroughly
Add a 3-inch layer of mulch
Tip: Trees should not be too close to buildings or power lines, and you should consider where you want shade or wind relief around your property. Try to plant trees 15 to 20 feet away from buildings when possible. Evergreens and clumping trees are typically used along property lines (as privacy screens) and in windbreaks.
3. Watering Schedule
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Newly planted trees require more frequent watering than established ones. They should be watered at their planting time and at the following intervals:
1 to 2 weeks after planting, water daily
3 to 12 weeks after planting, water every 2 to 3 days
After 12 weeks, water weekly until roots are established
The above is a great rule of thumb, but different trees and soil types require different watering patterns, so keep that in mind to ensure your trees are properly watered.
Note: Water thoroughly before planting, at planting time, and the day after planting. This helps settle the soil and eliminates large air pockets.
4. Why You Need to Mulch
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Tree care professionals prefer organic mulches, like wood chips, pine needles, hardwood and softwood bark, composted leaves, and other compost mixes. When these mulches decompose, they improve soil structure and increase soil fertility. Other benefits of proper mulching include the following:
Preserves soil moisture by increasing water infiltration and slowing evaporation
Significantly improves soil structure, fertility, and aeration as it decomposes
Efficiently moderates soil temperature, protecting roots from extreme summer and winter temperatures
Note: The most beneficial mulch options include wood chips, bark nuggets, composted leaves, or pine needles.
5. Seasonal Tree Pruning
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Pruning can remove limbs and branches with a disease, fungi, and other decay, stopping them from spreading to healthier branches or the trunk. Removing these branches also exposes the others to more sunlight and air circulation, which helps reduce disease occurrence.
Note: Late winter is the best time to prune most trees. Trees are still dormant at this time of year, and, unlike early winter, wound closure will be rapid if pruning occurs just prior to the growing season.
6. Insect Pests and Diseases
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Insect pests can be classified into three categories when regarding trees:
Chewing insects that eat portions of the tree (Japanese beetles, gypsy moths, tent caterpillars, etc.)
Sucking insects that suck sugars out of the tree’s stems and leaves (aphids and scales)
Boring insects that bore into the tree to eat portions of the inner bark or create nests. These insects cause the most damage to trees (Emerald Ash Borer, bark beetles, pine beetles, etc.)
Prevention: Apply insecticidal sprays in 2-week intervals before and during the growing season. However, insects can build up tolerance to even the best insecticide when used repeatedly. Alternate applying insecticides with different active ingredients.
Tree diseases, fungi, and viruses have three crucial factors: the host, the pathogen, and the environment (these make up the disease triangle). Consider the following:
The host is identified as the tree or plant in question
The pathogen is the disease, fungi, or virus
The environment is all the factors influencing the pathogen and host
Most tree species are susceptible to at least one disease-causing fungi. Yet, most fungi are beneficial to their host (only a few are harmful to trees).
Disease can be carried by vectors, most commonly insects. This is seen in dutch elm disease, where the bark beetle acts as a vector. Given there are a multitude of diseases, being able to properly identify the disease or pest that's doing the damage will help you considerably in resolving your issue.
Prevention: Fungicides kill the fungi that cause many common tree diseases. Treatment methods may include tree spraying or fungicide injection into the truck, branches, or soil. Insecticides should also be considered, as many pathogens migrate on insect vectors.
7. Tree Fertilizing and Pulling Weeds
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When needed, the best time to fertilize is mid-spring (April or early May) or late fall once trees are dormant. The fertilizer should be spread evenly across the soil surface, and the amount of nitrogen applied should be 3 pounds per 1,000 square feet.
Note: Early spring growth depends almost entirely on nutrients absorbed and stored the previous year.
Tree Care Tips
In this article, you discovered tree planting and care tips to help you keep your trees healthy and strong as they grow and tower over your property.
Knowing what to do for your trees when planting them and as they grow will help you keep them thriving and prevent them from dying and falling on your property.
Not knowing the best ways to plant, care for, water, and trim trees leaves them vulnerable, and you responsible to spend money to have them removed.
Sources: extension.umn.edu/planting-and-growing-guides/watering-newly-planted-trees-and-shrubs csfs.colostate.edu/2018/02/20/late-winter-best-time-prune-trees-colorado/ ourcityforest.org/blog/2020/4/17/identifying-tree-pests-and-disease canopy.org/tree-info/caring-for-trees/mature-trees/ arborday.org/trees/tips/
For the original version of this article visit: http://www.thetreecareguide.com/7-tree-care-tips-for-property-owners/
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rookieluck · 10 months
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the most critical sequence of events of the entire netflix cup
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hedgehog-moss · 2 years
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Before / after (also one from uphill and one from downhill) pictures of the fruit tree path I was talking about in this post! I wanted to put this cleared area of the forest to good use, and back then the idea of lining this slope with fruit trees was a maybe-someday project but I’ve planted 3 trees last year and 3 this year, so we’ve got the beginning of a fruit tree alley :) I will continue little by little...
The trees are still so little you can barely see them, but the four arrows in the second pic indicate: a cherry tree, a quince tree, an apple tree and a mirabelle (plum) tree. The cherry and the apple tree are the pioneers from last year and they’re doing well; hopefully the newcomers will enjoy their new home too. The last two trees are by themselves at the other end of my land (near Pandolf’s mossy rock path) because they’re chestnut trees and they’re less hardy, so I planted them at the lowest available altitude. 
A procession of animals followed me up and downhill wanting to see what I was up to. Consequently it was impossible to dig a hole without someone going “It’s my hole. It was made for me.”
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Mascarille was interested as well but Morille was there first and seniority matters a lot to cats.
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Pandolf is the definition of “I don’t care who started it I’m here to finish it.”
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Good luck, friend! You’ve got some quality llama manure under there to keep your roots warm. 
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I really hope the chestnut trees thrive and grow big not just because I love chestnuts but also so I can look at them and think “I’ve carried you in my arms all the way here when you were a baby.”
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Mascarille conducted one last general inspection before I mulched, was unimpressed, christened the tree “Uninteresting Stick in the Ground #6″, then returned to her more important cat business (staring contest with her sister to establish dominance.)
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gargelyfloof118 · 3 months
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This morning's chore is adding wood mulch next to the coop! I weedeated last night to jumpstart the process.
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Using the buckets has been the best tools to use for this project! I can't get my lawn mower around the coop safely (or without getting stuck). I tried to dump chips at the beginning and spread them out, but that became more work than I wanted.
I've already carved a decent chunk out of the pile. I'm hoping to do a few more rounds before the sun gets too intense.
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cafffine · 4 months
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so turns out urban forestry is just 80% taking calls from people asking you to - for free - perform a dangerous and costly treatment on their tree that would 100% kill it if we actually obeyed them
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[tree voice] i need 2 LEEEEEEEEAN
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nncastle · 1 year
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Yesterday we had the tree pros take down three trees behind the shade garden. Two were ashes that were attacked by the ash borer. Had these trees fallen they could have potentially destroyed our shade garden, fence, maples, and propane tanks. The crew lowered each branch carefully and the operation was a success. Now that beautiful giant rock has a place of honor and we have firewood and mulch.
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Buy Bulk Mulch | Dynamic Tree Solutions
Are you looking to  Buy Bulk Mulch ? Get top-quality Commercial Bulk Forest Mulch in Brisbane at Dynamic Tree Solutions. We offer bulk mulch , direct your doorstep. You can enjoy far better prices than garden centers, sourced directly from the professionals. Order our premium mulch products at affordable prices. Contact our team for more information.
Visit our website:-  https://dynamictreesolutions.com.au/
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lemonofthevalley · 5 months
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lily of the valleys are growing !!!!
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tenpolegardener · 6 months
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Spring in the garden
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Now that i have cleared the weeds I’m laying down tree mulch.
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intertexts · 3 months
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thinking Abt them (new haven wards)...
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femmesandhoney · 1 year
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the puppy is a fucking weirdo who tried to eat the cement porch step so um. a himbo.
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bumblebeeappletree · 9 months
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What’s the best way to keep fruit trees healthy in the warmer, dryer months? As buds begin to form, how can grafting be used to increase the diversity of your harvest? In this workshop led by artist and orchardist Sam Van Aken, you will learn the basics of bud grafting, a longstanding agricultural practice used to produce hybrid trees. And while you’re bud grafting, now’s also a great time to think about summer tree care, from installing a simple irrigation system to proper pruning and mulching.
Webinar facilitated by Sam Van Aken on July 8, 2020. Hosted in partnership with the Trust for Governors Island Open Orchard Project: https://www.govisland.com/things-to-d...
Introduction to the webinar and project: 0:00-6:45
Webinar: 6:45-end
The Open Orchard School is a two-year series of educational programs co-presented by NYC Parks GreenThumb and the Trust for Governors Island. The Open Orchard School is an extension of The Open Orchard, an expansive new artwork by Sam Van Aken on Governors Island that will take the form of a public orchard of 50 hybrid fruit trees. Each individual tree will contain multiple varieties of peaches, plums, apricots, nectarines, cherries and apples that were historically grown in the New York City region over the past 500 years, but which have been lost to climate change and the industrialization of agriculture, preserving their biodiversity for future generations. Many additional trees will be distributed to community gardens in all five boroughs. Through the Open Orchard School, community gardeners and members of the public will learn practical skills related to the project, including in-depth experience with fruit tree care, cultivation, planting, and grafting. Participants who complete multiple workshops can become part of the team working to ensure the ongoing stewardship of the trees as they put down roots across the city.
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