"My outfit is thrifted: Kasia Kulenty braided 2-piece over a Theyskens Theory tank with cutout sides, vintage asymmetrical polyester skirt, and Ann Demeulemeester sandals. My style is usually informed by dystopian futures, Manet's ”The Ragpicker’, wabi-sabi, deconstruction, and things that wash up on the beach."
The first complete monograph on Olivier Theyskens surveys his twenty-year career and documents the highly anticipated return of his eponymous label.
Olivier Theyskens’s refined sensibilities earned him international acclaim as the dark prince of late 1990s couture. From his first saturnine collections, to his new vision for Rochas, to his patterns and textiles at Nina Ricci, to his years designing for Theyskens’ Theory, the designer has proved himself a master of couture, semi-couture, and prêt-à-porter. Celebrated for his fine tailoring, romantic silhouettes, and gothic palette, Theyskens transforms each house he helms. This distinctive volume charts the twenty-year development of an extraordinary aesthetic vision, rendered across countries, cultures, and the shifting sands of the fashion landscape.
Newly commissioned texts connect the threads of the Belgian-born artist’s diverse practice. Drawings created for the publication accompany photography from each period of his career. At both Rochas and Nina Ricci, the designer crafted ethereal garments with unorthodox silhouettes, mixing sheer fabrics and old-world bustles with subtly subversive punk elements. Theyskens then broke ground in 2011 with his trailblazing partnership, Theyskens’ Theory. With a special focus on the designer’s return to the runway at the head of his own line, this is the definitive work on a fashion visionary who, like the girls he designs for, changes form, but walks in beauty wherever he goes.
Olivier Theyskens is a contemporary fashion designer from Belgium. He was born in Brussels in 1977 and he has worked in famous fashion and design houses such as Roches, Nina Ricci and Theory.
(pictured above is Theyskens in his studio in Paris, and Caroline Polacheck attending the 2024 Grammys in archive 1998 Fall Olivier Theyskens- Ready to Wear)
A particular collection of his, and some would argue the most iconic of his work is his first collection in Paris - the Fall 1998 Ready to Wear collection.
It featured many elements regarding movement and the human body, including exposed chests, anatomical elements such as vein-like lace details, distressed textile bodysuits resembling muscle fibres, and sheer pvc bodices, that exhibited and and constricted the body, moving and rearranging the fat cells and the overall proportion and shape of the body.
Theyskens describes the collection as “romantic and expressive of complex yet fragile emotions”. He took much inspiration for this collection from Florentine studies of anatomy along with the 17th-19th centuries use of beadwork and intricate place detailing. Theyskens upon reflection of the collection said “When I look back, some of the charm of this collection is I can tell how much I’m trying different types of things as a discoverer or explorer, I was really doing things mostly for the first time”. I believe this statement perfectly aligns with myself and my position in the ‘Movement’ project.
I, like Olivier started this project mostly doing things for the first time, and it’s a really beautiful thing to see how it all blends together. There’s always been quite a sculptural element to my fashion designs, as do his. However, I believe the textures and qualities print have brought to this project, along with the structure and stability of sculpture, and the intricate beadwork within Fashion, has brought such a gorgeous sense of contrast and depth to my work.