#sooty beech mold

[drhoz]

#2546-2548 - Sooty Beech Scale, Sooty Beech Mold, and the Common European Yellowjacket

One of the features of the Antarctic Beech forests of New Zealand, particularly on the South Island, is the thick layer of what looks like black moss covering many of the trees. And the ground. And most of the plants in the understory.

The black moss is actually sooty mold, a complex combination of fungi from a variety of different Orders, thriving on the ludicrous amounts of honeydew pumped out by the Sooty Beech Scale Ultracoelostoma assimile. The white filaments sticking out of the mold in the first photo is the anal tube of the scale insects, the longest such tube of any insect. The insect is most abundant on Black Beech Nothofagus solandri (the black in the name is from the mold) and middle-aged trees may lose 80% of the sugars they make to them. Younger trees have smooth bark that doesn't offer safe nooks and crannies for the crawlers, and in mature trees the bark is too thick for the scale insects to drill through.

The honeydew is a keystone feature of the Nothofagus forests - birds, bats, reptiles and insects all feed on the honeydew. Some rely on it. There's at least two species of caterpillar that prey on the scale insects. And a beetle - the only one in its family - that feeds only on the sooty mold.

And then the wasps arrived.

Two species are the problem - Vespula vulgaris (see photo) and Vespula germanica. Both are now more common in the Nothofagus forests then they are anywhere else in the world, and by a horrifying degree. Not only are they getting a diet of pure rocket fuel for much of the year, they then denude the forest of invertebrate life to feed their larvae. By monopolising the honeydew supply they're starving the birds and other animals that need that food supply, especially since introduced mice, rats, and stoats are eating the fruit and seeds of the forest, or turning on the birds when they run out of mice.

St. Arnaud, Southern Alps, New Zealand

[quillofspirit]

Mirkwood Terrain Inspo

For the wonderful @sotwk, thank you for your suggestions 💚

Again, I couldn't find photos from mostly New Zealand, but I am quite happy with the result! This is a much older, and mature forest, with a hint of darkness it didn't have before.

From Top to Bottom, Left to Right

Twisted trunks by Craig Strahorn

Forest Reflection by Chloé Lam

River to Lake Town by Jeff Hitchcock

Mysterious Glen by Donald Gionnatti

Dried Stream by Mike Blank

Kahikatea Trees by Geoff McKay

Mossy branches by Matthew Smith

I wanna add, for headcanon purposes, that the Beech trees in Rotoroa are covered in black sooty mold that covers even the ferns. It helps the ecosystem (read about it, it's pretty cool!), but it looks a little scary and makes everything smell like vinegar.

[tameblog]

Eriosomatinae Just in case there weren’t enough white waxy insects for you to tell apart already, such as scales and mealybugs, here is another fluffy type. Now introducing the shrub- and tree-loving woolly aphid, an insect that takes the waxy coating game to a whole new level. Aphids are notorious plant pests, and the fuzzy types can be just as hard to identify by species – and sometimes even harder to control – than their smooth, shiny relatives. We link to vendors to help you find relevant products. If you buy from one of our links, we may earn a commission. We’ve compiled everything you need to know about these sap-sucking pests, so you’ll know how to deal with them when they show up on your apples or landscape trees. Here’s what we’ll cover in this guide: What Are Woolly Aphids? Belonging to the Aphididae subfamily Eriosomatinae, these pests suck the sap from a variety of plants, especially trees and shrubs such as edible and ornamental apple, cotoneaster, maple, elm, alder, and beech. They feed on both underground and aboveground parts of these plants, from the roots to the twigs and leaves. Galls caused by woolly apple aphids. This causes twisted and curled leaves as well as chlorosis, or yellowing of the foliage, and may result in reduced plant vigor. Some species cause galls, which can provide entry points for fungal diseases. However, the primary negative effect of these woolly creatures is cosmetic, and their main hosts are ornamental, so infestations of white fluffy insects are not appealing. Like other sap-sucking pests, these insects exude sweet honeydew, which attracts ants, and an ugly black sooty mold can grow on stickied leaf surfaces. Identification Woolly aphids have three-millimeter-long, pear-shaped bodies that are covered in a white, waxy, fluffy coating. There are several common species to look out for on your plants. Often, the host gives the best clues to help identify what species is attacking, as the insects themselves can look quite similar. The woolly apple aphid, Eriosoma lanigerum, is a common and serious apple pest worldwide. As its name suggests, it loves apples of all types, including ornamental crabapples, but it will also feed on elm, alder, mountain ash, hawthorn, serviceberry, and pyracantha. These have bluish-black bodies under their white fluff, and they feed on the base of new shoots, branches, roots, and trunk wounds. Their feeding causes galls to form, and these cracked and swollen areas on branches – perfect entry points for diseases such as rots and canker – are the primary reason these insects are such serious pests, and why they are sometimes called American blight aphids. Eriosoma lanigerum. Woolly elm aphids, Eriosoma americanum, feed on American elm foliage in the spring, and the roots of serviceberry (also known as Saskatoon berry) as an alternate host in the summer. On elms, feeding causes the edges of new leaves to roll inwards and form a gall-like swelling where they hide out. On Saskatoon berry bushes, especially young plants, root feeding can result in stunting and reduced berry production, and the damage can be fatal. On the elm, the adult has a red-orange body with some white sticky bubbles, or it may be covered with a waxy cotton-like coating. On the serviceberry, where they are found underground, they are light blue to black, and may have some waxy fluff on their thoraxes. The woolly alder aphid, Prociphilus tessellatus, feeds on silver maple in the spring, and alder in the summer. This is the super fluffy species you may already be familiar with, and they look like pieces of cotton floating through the air when they’re flying, or fungi when they’re congregated on twigs. Even their eggs are woolly. Besides looking a little strange or even ugly on the plant, this species doesn’t cause significant damage. Large populations can cause shriveled leaves, and the honeydew they produce can make vehicles, sidewalks, and any lawn furniture positioned under the maple or alder trees sticky. But these issues aren’t usually serious enough to warrant control. Biology and Life Cycle Most of the woolly aphids have two primary hosts, which they alternate feeding and reproducing on. Often, they lay eggs on the primary host, the eggs overwinter in the cracks of bark, females hatch in the spring, and they begin to produce live offspring. They will spend a few generations feeding and reproducing, without males, on the primary host plant. A generation of winged females will fly to the secondary host soon after, and they will spend most of the rest of the season feeding and reproducing there. In the late summer or early fall, a second wave of winged females head back to the primary host, and produce a generation of males and females. These mate, and each female lays one egg that will overwinter and hatch in the spring, producing another all-female generation. Some species will hatch before winter, and spend the season as nymphs on the host plant’s roots. Females can produce hundreds of offspring during their one-month lifespan, and these offspring reach sexual maturity in four to ten days. One of my professors described this as giving birth to live, pregnant young. Thus, populations can explode very quickly. Monitoring Keeping a close eye out for these pests before their populations – and the damage they cause – gets out of control is essential for effective management. The downside is, once the damage is visible, management options are often limited or rendered ineffective. Check the undersides of leaves for woolly aphid populations. Look out for shiny, sticky honeydew and an accumulation of waxy shed skins on the upper side of leaves. They are easily mistaken for mealybugs and scale insects. But mealybugs often have tails, and both mealybugs and scales are flat while aphids are pear shaped. Often, the distinguishing feature of aphids is the two tailpipes (cornicles) on the end of their abdomens, but they are short and often covered by fluff on woolly species. Organic Control Methods Control is not often warranted, especially on mature, healthy trees and shrubs. However, infestations of certain species, especially Eriosoma lanigerum, can become serious enough to bust out the control options. If control is necessary, approach these pests with an integrated pest management (IPM) strategy, combining monitoring with cultural and biological methods for safe, effective control. Cultural and Physical Control Keep your plants healthy to achieve tolerance and minimize damage. Avoid planting one host – elm, for example – near or in the same vicinity as the other host – such as serviceberry. Try to avoid cultivation of one host in the same area where wild alternate hosts are growing as well. Physical control methods can be hard or impossible to use on tall trees, but on smaller trees and shrubs, you can use a strong stream of water from the hose or scrub infested areas with a stiff brush to dislodge colonies. Prune out and destroy heavily infested twigs and branches. These pests spread by crawling, flying, or being transported via plant material, clothing, gardening shoes, and tools, so examine new plants and clean your tools between working with infested and non-infested plants. Plant resistant varieties of common host species. For example, ‘Northern Spy’ apples are resistant to the woolly apple aphid. Biological Control Parasitic wasps are the primary enemies of these pests in general, and they can often provide adequate control of small populations. Aphelinus mali, for example, specifically targets the woolly apple aphid. Aphelinus mali hatch holes. Lacewings, ladybugs, hoverflies, and even earwigs will snack on them as well. Aphidoletes aphidimyza is a commercially available predator commonly referred to as the aphid midge that can be applied and works well in indoor settings such as greenhouses. The adults lay eggs near the aphids, and the resulting larvae prey on the pests. Aphidoletes aphidimyza Find these predators available at Arbico Organics. None of these beneficial insects will target the underground pests, however. That is a job for the nematode Steinernema carpocapsae, which will attack underground colonies. NemAttack Sc You can find these sold under the brand name NemAttack at Arbico Organics. Learn more about how to use beneficial nematodes in our guide. Organic Pesticides Using pesticides to control these insects can be difficult, thanks to their protective waxy coating. Good coverage and penetration of this fluffy coating is essential to achieve any effect with contact products, whether organic or chemical in nature. Most of the products that are effective against smooth aphid types can provide some control of the fluffy types as well, provided coverage is adequate. Monterey Horticultural Oil Horticultural oils, such as this one from Monterey that is available from Arbico Organics, and insecticidal soap products such as this one from Bonide, also available at Arbico Organics, are two viable options. Bonide Insecticidal Soap There are no organic or chemical controls available that are specific to the treatment of underground pests. Chemical Pesticides Chemical control is rarely justified with these pests. As with organic contact products, chemical contact pesticides such as pyrethroids are not very effective against them either. Systemic chemicals, those that are absorbed and translocated throughout the plant, are the most effective, as these are sucked up with the sap they feed on. However, chemical applications can actually serve to encourage insect outbreaks, as these can be toxic to beneficial insects as well. Reducing or wiping out predator populations gives the aphids a chance to reach infestation levels again. They are not choosy about pollinators either, so avoid using chemicals on plants that attract bees and other pollinators, and if you must use them as a last resort, wait until the plants have finished blooming. Beware the Plant-Eating Cotton Balls Though these insects can look like innocent bits of floating cotton, they can quickly settle into fluffy plant-sucking colonies. Not only can they cause leaf curl or stem galls, they also don’t exactly create what you’d call a desirable aesthetic on ornamental trees and shrubs. Luckily, the damage they cause is often minor, and nature provides some control to go along with your cultural and physical strategies.  Have you ever dealt with these downy insects before? Let us know down in the comments what plants they targeted, and how you controlled them! And for more information about other plant-sucking insect pests, have a read of these guides next: © Ask the Experts, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. See our TOS for more details. Originally published August 18th, 2021. Last updated April 2nd, 2025. Product photos via Arbico Organics. Uncredited photos: Shutterstock. !function(f,b,e,v,n,t,s) if(f.fbq)return;n=f.fbq=function()n.callMethod? n.callMethod.apply(n,arguments):n.queue.push(arguments); if(!f._fbq)f._fbq=n;n.push=n;n.loaded=!0;n.version='2.0'; n.queue=[];t=b.createElement(e);t.async=!0; t.src=v;s=b.getElementsByTagName(e)[0]; s.parentNode.insertBefore(t,s)(window, document,'script', ' fbq('init', '176410929431717'); fbq('track', 'PageView'); Source link

[ramestoryworld]

Eriosomatinae Just in case there weren’t enough white waxy insects for you to tell apart already, such as scales and mealybugs, here is another fluffy type. Now introducing the shrub- and tree-loving woolly aphid, an insect that takes the waxy coating game to a whole new level. Aphids are notorious plant pests, and the fuzzy types can be just as hard to identify by species – and sometimes even harder to control – than their smooth, shiny relatives. We link to vendors to help you find relevant products. If you buy from one of our links, we may earn a commission. We’ve compiled everything you need to know about these sap-sucking pests, so you’ll know how to deal with them when they show up on your apples or landscape trees. Here’s what we’ll cover in this guide: What Are Woolly Aphids? Belonging to the Aphididae subfamily Eriosomatinae, these pests suck the sap from a variety of plants, especially trees and shrubs such as edible and ornamental apple, cotoneaster, maple, elm, alder, and beech. They feed on both underground and aboveground parts of these plants, from the roots to the twigs and leaves. Galls caused by woolly apple aphids. This causes twisted and curled leaves as well as chlorosis, or yellowing of the foliage, and may result in reduced plant vigor. Some species cause galls, which can provide entry points for fungal diseases. However, the primary negative effect of these woolly creatures is cosmetic, and their main hosts are ornamental, so infestations of white fluffy insects are not appealing. Like other sap-sucking pests, these insects exude sweet honeydew, which attracts ants, and an ugly black sooty mold can grow on stickied leaf surfaces. Identification Woolly aphids have three-millimeter-long, pear-shaped bodies that are covered in a white, waxy, fluffy coating. There are several common species to look out for on your plants. Often, the host gives the best clues to help identify what species is attacking, as the insects themselves can look quite similar. The woolly apple aphid, Eriosoma lanigerum, is a common and serious apple pest worldwide. As its name suggests, it loves apples of all types, including ornamental crabapples, but it will also feed on elm, alder, mountain ash, hawthorn, serviceberry, and pyracantha. These have bluish-black bodies under their white fluff, and they feed on the base of new shoots, branches, roots, and trunk wounds. Their feeding causes galls to form, and these cracked and swollen areas on branches – perfect entry points for diseases such as rots and canker – are the primary reason these insects are such serious pests, and why they are sometimes called American blight aphids. Eriosoma lanigerum. Woolly elm aphids, Eriosoma americanum, feed on American elm foliage in the spring, and the roots of serviceberry (also known as Saskatoon berry) as an alternate host in the summer. On elms, feeding causes the edges of new leaves to roll inwards and form a gall-like swelling where they hide out. On Saskatoon berry bushes, especially young plants, root feeding can result in stunting and reduced berry production, and the damage can be fatal. On the elm, the adult has a red-orange body with some white sticky bubbles, or it may be covered with a waxy cotton-like coating. On the serviceberry, where they are found underground, they are light blue to black, and may have some waxy fluff on their thoraxes. The woolly alder aphid, Prociphilus tessellatus, feeds on silver maple in the spring, and alder in the summer. This is the super fluffy species you may already be familiar with, and they look like pieces of cotton floating through the air when they’re flying, or fungi when they’re congregated on twigs. Even their eggs are woolly. Besides looking a little strange or even ugly on the plant, this species doesn’t cause significant damage. Large populations can cause shriveled leaves, and the honeydew they produce can make vehicles, sidewalks, and any lawn furniture positioned under the maple or alder trees sticky. But these issues aren’t usually serious enough to warrant control. Biology and Life Cycle Most of the woolly aphids have two primary hosts, which they alternate feeding and reproducing on. Often, they lay eggs on the primary host, the eggs overwinter in the cracks of bark, females hatch in the spring, and they begin to produce live offspring. They will spend a few generations feeding and reproducing, without males, on the primary host plant. A generation of winged females will fly to the secondary host soon after, and they will spend most of the rest of the season feeding and reproducing there. In the late summer or early fall, a second wave of winged females head back to the primary host, and produce a generation of males and females. These mate, and each female lays one egg that will overwinter and hatch in the spring, producing another all-female generation. Some species will hatch before winter, and spend the season as nymphs on the host plant’s roots. Females can produce hundreds of offspring during their one-month lifespan, and these offspring reach sexual maturity in four to ten days. One of my professors described this as giving birth to live, pregnant young. Thus, populations can explode very quickly. Monitoring Keeping a close eye out for these pests before their populations – and the damage they cause – gets out of control is essential for effective management. The downside is, once the damage is visible, management options are often limited or rendered ineffective. Check the undersides of leaves for woolly aphid populations. Look out for shiny, sticky honeydew and an accumulation of waxy shed skins on the upper side of leaves. They are easily mistaken for mealybugs and scale insects. But mealybugs often have tails, and both mealybugs and scales are flat while aphids are pear shaped. Often, the distinguishing feature of aphids is the two tailpipes (cornicles) on the end of their abdomens, but they are short and often covered by fluff on woolly species. Organic Control Methods Control is not often warranted, especially on mature, healthy trees and shrubs. However, infestations of certain species, especially Eriosoma lanigerum, can become serious enough to bust out the control options. If control is necessary, approach these pests with an integrated pest management (IPM) strategy, combining monitoring with cultural and biological methods for safe, effective control. Cultural and Physical Control Keep your plants healthy to achieve tolerance and minimize damage. Avoid planting one host – elm, for example – near or in the same vicinity as the other host – such as serviceberry. Try to avoid cultivation of one host in the same area where wild alternate hosts are growing as well. Physical control methods can be hard or impossible to use on tall trees, but on smaller trees and shrubs, you can use a strong stream of water from the hose or scrub infested areas with a stiff brush to dislodge colonies. Prune out and destroy heavily infested twigs and branches. These pests spread by crawling, flying, or being transported via plant material, clothing, gardening shoes, and tools, so examine new plants and clean your tools between working with infested and non-infested plants. Plant resistant varieties of common host species. For example, ‘Northern Spy’ apples are resistant to the woolly apple aphid. Biological Control Parasitic wasps are the primary enemies of these pests in general, and they can often provide adequate control of small populations. Aphelinus mali, for example, specifically targets the woolly apple aphid. Aphelinus mali hatch holes. Lacewings, ladybugs, hoverflies, and even earwigs will snack on them as well. Aphidoletes aphidimyza is a commercially available predator commonly referred to as the aphid midge that can be applied and works well in indoor settings such as greenhouses. The adults lay eggs near the aphids, and the resulting larvae prey on the pests. Aphidoletes aphidimyza Find these predators available at Arbico Organics. None of these beneficial insects will target the underground pests, however. That is a job for the nematode Steinernema carpocapsae, which will attack underground colonies. NemAttack Sc You can find these sold under the brand name NemAttack at Arbico Organics. Learn more about how to use beneficial nematodes in our guide. Organic Pesticides Using pesticides to control these insects can be difficult, thanks to their protective waxy coating. Good coverage and penetration of this fluffy coating is essential to achieve any effect with contact products, whether organic or chemical in nature. Most of the products that are effective against smooth aphid types can provide some control of the fluffy types as well, provided coverage is adequate. Monterey Horticultural Oil Horticultural oils, such as this one from Monterey that is available from Arbico Organics, and insecticidal soap products such as this one from Bonide, also available at Arbico Organics, are two viable options. Bonide Insecticidal Soap There are no organic or chemical controls available that are specific to the treatment of underground pests. Chemical Pesticides Chemical control is rarely justified with these pests. As with organic contact products, chemical contact pesticides such as pyrethroids are not very effective against them either. Systemic chemicals, those that are absorbed and translocated throughout the plant, are the most effective, as these are sucked up with the sap they feed on. However, chemical applications can actually serve to encourage insect outbreaks, as these can be toxic to beneficial insects as well. Reducing or wiping out predator populations gives the aphids a chance to reach infestation levels again. They are not choosy about pollinators either, so avoid using chemicals on plants that attract bees and other pollinators, and if you must use them as a last resort, wait until the plants have finished blooming. Beware the Plant-Eating Cotton Balls Though these insects can look like innocent bits of floating cotton, they can quickly settle into fluffy plant-sucking colonies. Not only can they cause leaf curl or stem galls, they also don’t exactly create what you’d call a desirable aesthetic on ornamental trees and shrubs. Luckily, the damage they cause is often minor, and nature provides some control to go along with your cultural and physical strategies.  Have you ever dealt with these downy insects before? Let us know down in the comments what plants they targeted, and how you controlled them! And for more information about other plant-sucking insect pests, have a read of these guides next: © Ask the Experts, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. See our TOS for more details. Originally published August 18th, 2021. Last updated April 2nd, 2025. Product photos via Arbico Organics. Uncredited photos: Shutterstock. !function(f,b,e,v,n,t,s) if(f.fbq)return;n=f.fbq=function()n.callMethod? n.callMethod.apply(n,arguments):n.queue.push(arguments); if(!f._fbq)f._fbq=n;n.push=n;n.loaded=!0;n.version='2.0'; n.queue=[];t=b.createElement(e);t.async=!0; t.src=v;s=b.getElementsByTagName(e)[0]; s.parentNode.insertBefore(t,s)(window, document,'script', ' fbq('init', '176410929431717'); fbq('track', 'PageView'); Source link

[alexha2210]

Eriosomatinae Just in case there weren’t enough white waxy insects for you to tell apart already, such as scales and mealybugs, here is another fluffy type. Now introducing the shrub- and tree-loving woolly aphid, an insect that takes the waxy coating game to a whole new level. Aphids are notorious plant pests, and the fuzzy types can be just as hard to identify by species – and sometimes even harder to control – than their smooth, shiny relatives. We link to vendors to help you find relevant products. If you buy from one of our links, we may earn a commission. We’ve compiled everything you need to know about these sap-sucking pests, so you’ll know how to deal with them when they show up on your apples or landscape trees. Here’s what we’ll cover in this guide: What Are Woolly Aphids? Belonging to the Aphididae subfamily Eriosomatinae, these pests suck the sap from a variety of plants, especially trees and shrubs such as edible and ornamental apple, cotoneaster, maple, elm, alder, and beech. They feed on both underground and aboveground parts of these plants, from the roots to the twigs and leaves. Galls caused by woolly apple aphids. This causes twisted and curled leaves as well as chlorosis, or yellowing of the foliage, and may result in reduced plant vigor. Some species cause galls, which can provide entry points for fungal diseases. However, the primary negative effect of these woolly creatures is cosmetic, and their main hosts are ornamental, so infestations of white fluffy insects are not appealing. Like other sap-sucking pests, these insects exude sweet honeydew, which attracts ants, and an ugly black sooty mold can grow on stickied leaf surfaces. Identification Woolly aphids have three-millimeter-long, pear-shaped bodies that are covered in a white, waxy, fluffy coating. There are several common species to look out for on your plants. Often, the host gives the best clues to help identify what species is attacking, as the insects themselves can look quite similar. The woolly apple aphid, Eriosoma lanigerum, is a common and serious apple pest worldwide. As its name suggests, it loves apples of all types, including ornamental crabapples, but it will also feed on elm, alder, mountain ash, hawthorn, serviceberry, and pyracantha. These have bluish-black bodies under their white fluff, and they feed on the base of new shoots, branches, roots, and trunk wounds. Their feeding causes galls to form, and these cracked and swollen areas on branches – perfect entry points for diseases such as rots and canker – are the primary reason these insects are such serious pests, and why they are sometimes called American blight aphids. Eriosoma lanigerum. Woolly elm aphids, Eriosoma americanum, feed on American elm foliage in the spring, and the roots of serviceberry (also known as Saskatoon berry) as an alternate host in the summer. On elms, feeding causes the edges of new leaves to roll inwards and form a gall-like swelling where they hide out. On Saskatoon berry bushes, especially young plants, root feeding can result in stunting and reduced berry production, and the damage can be fatal. On the elm, the adult has a red-orange body with some white sticky bubbles, or it may be covered with a waxy cotton-like coating. On the serviceberry, where they are found underground, they are light blue to black, and may have some waxy fluff on their thoraxes. The woolly alder aphid, Prociphilus tessellatus, feeds on silver maple in the spring, and alder in the summer. This is the super fluffy species you may already be familiar with, and they look like pieces of cotton floating through the air when they’re flying, or fungi when they’re congregated on twigs. Even their eggs are woolly. Besides looking a little strange or even ugly on the plant, this species doesn’t cause significant damage. Large populations can cause shriveled leaves, and the honeydew they produce can make vehicles, sidewalks, and any lawn furniture positioned under the maple or alder trees sticky. But these issues aren’t usually serious enough to warrant control. Biology and Life Cycle Most of the woolly aphids have two primary hosts, which they alternate feeding and reproducing on. Often, they lay eggs on the primary host, the eggs overwinter in the cracks of bark, females hatch in the spring, and they begin to produce live offspring. They will spend a few generations feeding and reproducing, without males, on the primary host plant. A generation of winged females will fly to the secondary host soon after, and they will spend most of the rest of the season feeding and reproducing there. In the late summer or early fall, a second wave of winged females head back to the primary host, and produce a generation of males and females. These mate, and each female lays one egg that will overwinter and hatch in the spring, producing another all-female generation. Some species will hatch before winter, and spend the season as nymphs on the host plant’s roots. Females can produce hundreds of offspring during their one-month lifespan, and these offspring reach sexual maturity in four to ten days. One of my professors described this as giving birth to live, pregnant young. Thus, populations can explode very quickly. Monitoring Keeping a close eye out for these pests before their populations – and the damage they cause – gets out of control is essential for effective management. The downside is, once the damage is visible, management options are often limited or rendered ineffective. Check the undersides of leaves for woolly aphid populations. Look out for shiny, sticky honeydew and an accumulation of waxy shed skins on the upper side of leaves. They are easily mistaken for mealybugs and scale insects. But mealybugs often have tails, and both mealybugs and scales are flat while aphids are pear shaped. Often, the distinguishing feature of aphids is the two tailpipes (cornicles) on the end of their abdomens, but they are short and often covered by fluff on woolly species. Organic Control Methods Control is not often warranted, especially on mature, healthy trees and shrubs. However, infestations of certain species, especially Eriosoma lanigerum, can become serious enough to bust out the control options. If control is necessary, approach these pests with an integrated pest management (IPM) strategy, combining monitoring with cultural and biological methods for safe, effective control. Cultural and Physical Control Keep your plants healthy to achieve tolerance and minimize damage. Avoid planting one host – elm, for example – near or in the same vicinity as the other host – such as serviceberry. Try to avoid cultivation of one host in the same area where wild alternate hosts are growing as well. Physical control methods can be hard or impossible to use on tall trees, but on smaller trees and shrubs, you can use a strong stream of water from the hose or scrub infested areas with a stiff brush to dislodge colonies. Prune out and destroy heavily infested twigs and branches. These pests spread by crawling, flying, or being transported via plant material, clothing, gardening shoes, and tools, so examine new plants and clean your tools between working with infested and non-infested plants. Plant resistant varieties of common host species. For example, ‘Northern Spy’ apples are resistant to the woolly apple aphid. Biological Control Parasitic wasps are the primary enemies of these pests in general, and they can often provide adequate control of small populations. Aphelinus mali, for example, specifically targets the woolly apple aphid. Aphelinus mali hatch holes. Lacewings, ladybugs, hoverflies, and even earwigs will snack on them as well. Aphidoletes aphidimyza is a commercially available predator commonly referred to as the aphid midge that can be applied and works well in indoor settings such as greenhouses. The adults lay eggs near the aphids, and the resulting larvae prey on the pests. Aphidoletes aphidimyza Find these predators available at Arbico Organics. None of these beneficial insects will target the underground pests, however. That is a job for the nematode Steinernema carpocapsae, which will attack underground colonies. NemAttack Sc You can find these sold under the brand name NemAttack at Arbico Organics. Learn more about how to use beneficial nematodes in our guide. Organic Pesticides Using pesticides to control these insects can be difficult, thanks to their protective waxy coating. Good coverage and penetration of this fluffy coating is essential to achieve any effect with contact products, whether organic or chemical in nature. Most of the products that are effective against smooth aphid types can provide some control of the fluffy types as well, provided coverage is adequate. Monterey Horticultural Oil Horticultural oils, such as this one from Monterey that is available from Arbico Organics, and insecticidal soap products such as this one from Bonide, also available at Arbico Organics, are two viable options. Bonide Insecticidal Soap There are no organic or chemical controls available that are specific to the treatment of underground pests. Chemical Pesticides Chemical control is rarely justified with these pests. As with organic contact products, chemical contact pesticides such as pyrethroids are not very effective against them either. Systemic chemicals, those that are absorbed and translocated throughout the plant, are the most effective, as these are sucked up with the sap they feed on. However, chemical applications can actually serve to encourage insect outbreaks, as these can be toxic to beneficial insects as well. Reducing or wiping out predator populations gives the aphids a chance to reach infestation levels again. They are not choosy about pollinators either, so avoid using chemicals on plants that attract bees and other pollinators, and if you must use them as a last resort, wait until the plants have finished blooming. Beware the Plant-Eating Cotton Balls Though these insects can look like innocent bits of floating cotton, they can quickly settle into fluffy plant-sucking colonies. Not only can they cause leaf curl or stem galls, they also don’t exactly create what you’d call a desirable aesthetic on ornamental trees and shrubs. Luckily, the damage they cause is often minor, and nature provides some control to go along with your cultural and physical strategies.  Have you ever dealt with these downy insects before? Let us know down in the comments what plants they targeted, and how you controlled them! And for more information about other plant-sucking insect pests, have a read of these guides next: © Ask the Experts, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. See our TOS for more details. Originally published August 18th, 2021. Last updated April 2nd, 2025. Product photos via Arbico Organics. Uncredited photos: Shutterstock. !function(f,b,e,v,n,t,s) if(f.fbq)return;n=f.fbq=function()n.callMethod? n.callMethod.apply(n,arguments):n.queue.push(arguments); if(!f._fbq)f._fbq=n;n.push=n;n.loaded=!0;n.version='2.0'; n.queue=[];t=b.createElement(e);t.async=!0; t.src=v;s=b.getElementsByTagName(e)[0]; s.parentNode.insertBefore(t,s)(window, document,'script', ' fbq('init', '176410929431717'); fbq('track', 'PageView'); Source link

[angusstory]

Eriosomatinae Just in case there weren’t enough white waxy insects for you to tell apart already, such as scales and mealybugs, here is another fluffy type. Now introducing the shrub- and tree-loving woolly aphid, an insect that takes the waxy coating game to a whole new level. Aphids are notorious plant pests, and the fuzzy types can be just as hard to identify by species – and sometimes even harder to control – than their smooth, shiny relatives. We link to vendors to help you find relevant products. If you buy from one of our links, we may earn a commission. We’ve compiled everything you need to know about these sap-sucking pests, so you’ll know how to deal with them when they show up on your apples or landscape trees. Here’s what we’ll cover in this guide: What Are Woolly Aphids? Belonging to the Aphididae subfamily Eriosomatinae, these pests suck the sap from a variety of plants, especially trees and shrubs such as edible and ornamental apple, cotoneaster, maple, elm, alder, and beech. They feed on both underground and aboveground parts of these plants, from the roots to the twigs and leaves. Galls caused by woolly apple aphids. This causes twisted and curled leaves as well as chlorosis, or yellowing of the foliage, and may result in reduced plant vigor. Some species cause galls, which can provide entry points for fungal diseases. However, the primary negative effect of these woolly creatures is cosmetic, and their main hosts are ornamental, so infestations of white fluffy insects are not appealing. Like other sap-sucking pests, these insects exude sweet honeydew, which attracts ants, and an ugly black sooty mold can grow on stickied leaf surfaces. Identification Woolly aphids have three-millimeter-long, pear-shaped bodies that are covered in a white, waxy, fluffy coating. There are several common species to look out for on your plants. Often, the host gives the best clues to help identify what species is attacking, as the insects themselves can look quite similar. The woolly apple aphid, Eriosoma lanigerum, is a common and serious apple pest worldwide. As its name suggests, it loves apples of all types, including ornamental crabapples, but it will also feed on elm, alder, mountain ash, hawthorn, serviceberry, and pyracantha. These have bluish-black bodies under their white fluff, and they feed on the base of new shoots, branches, roots, and trunk wounds. Their feeding causes galls to form, and these cracked and swollen areas on branches – perfect entry points for diseases such as rots and canker – are the primary reason these insects are such serious pests, and why they are sometimes called American blight aphids. Eriosoma lanigerum. Woolly elm aphids, Eriosoma americanum, feed on American elm foliage in the spring, and the roots of serviceberry (also known as Saskatoon berry) as an alternate host in the summer. On elms, feeding causes the edges of new leaves to roll inwards and form a gall-like swelling where they hide out. On Saskatoon berry bushes, especially young plants, root feeding can result in stunting and reduced berry production, and the damage can be fatal. On the elm, the adult has a red-orange body with some white sticky bubbles, or it may be covered with a waxy cotton-like coating. On the serviceberry, where they are found underground, they are light blue to black, and may have some waxy fluff on their thoraxes. The woolly alder aphid, Prociphilus tessellatus, feeds on silver maple in the spring, and alder in the summer. This is the super fluffy species you may already be familiar with, and they look like pieces of cotton floating through the air when they’re flying, or fungi when they’re congregated on twigs. Even their eggs are woolly. Besides looking a little strange or even ugly on the plant, this species doesn’t cause significant damage. Large populations can cause shriveled leaves, and the honeydew they produce can make vehicles, sidewalks, and any lawn furniture positioned under the maple or alder trees sticky. But these issues aren’t usually serious enough to warrant control. Biology and Life Cycle Most of the woolly aphids have two primary hosts, which they alternate feeding and reproducing on. Often, they lay eggs on the primary host, the eggs overwinter in the cracks of bark, females hatch in the spring, and they begin to produce live offspring. They will spend a few generations feeding and reproducing, without males, on the primary host plant. A generation of winged females will fly to the secondary host soon after, and they will spend most of the rest of the season feeding and reproducing there. In the late summer or early fall, a second wave of winged females head back to the primary host, and produce a generation of males and females. These mate, and each female lays one egg that will overwinter and hatch in the spring, producing another all-female generation. Some species will hatch before winter, and spend the season as nymphs on the host plant’s roots. Females can produce hundreds of offspring during their one-month lifespan, and these offspring reach sexual maturity in four to ten days. One of my professors described this as giving birth to live, pregnant young. Thus, populations can explode very quickly. Monitoring Keeping a close eye out for these pests before their populations – and the damage they cause – gets out of control is essential for effective management. The downside is, once the damage is visible, management options are often limited or rendered ineffective. Check the undersides of leaves for woolly aphid populations. Look out for shiny, sticky honeydew and an accumulation of waxy shed skins on the upper side of leaves. They are easily mistaken for mealybugs and scale insects. But mealybugs often have tails, and both mealybugs and scales are flat while aphids are pear shaped. Often, the distinguishing feature of aphids is the two tailpipes (cornicles) on the end of their abdomens, but they are short and often covered by fluff on woolly species. Organic Control Methods Control is not often warranted, especially on mature, healthy trees and shrubs. However, infestations of certain species, especially Eriosoma lanigerum, can become serious enough to bust out the control options. If control is necessary, approach these pests with an integrated pest management (IPM) strategy, combining monitoring with cultural and biological methods for safe, effective control. Cultural and Physical Control Keep your plants healthy to achieve tolerance and minimize damage. Avoid planting one host – elm, for example – near or in the same vicinity as the other host – such as serviceberry. Try to avoid cultivation of one host in the same area where wild alternate hosts are growing as well. Physical control methods can be hard or impossible to use on tall trees, but on smaller trees and shrubs, you can use a strong stream of water from the hose or scrub infested areas with a stiff brush to dislodge colonies. Prune out and destroy heavily infested twigs and branches. These pests spread by crawling, flying, or being transported via plant material, clothing, gardening shoes, and tools, so examine new plants and clean your tools between working with infested and non-infested plants. Plant resistant varieties of common host species. For example, ‘Northern Spy’ apples are resistant to the woolly apple aphid. Biological Control Parasitic wasps are the primary enemies of these pests in general, and they can often provide adequate control of small populations. Aphelinus mali, for example, specifically targets the woolly apple aphid. Aphelinus mali hatch holes. Lacewings, ladybugs, hoverflies, and even earwigs will snack on them as well. Aphidoletes aphidimyza is a commercially available predator commonly referred to as the aphid midge that can be applied and works well in indoor settings such as greenhouses. The adults lay eggs near the aphids, and the resulting larvae prey on the pests. Aphidoletes aphidimyza Find these predators available at Arbico Organics. None of these beneficial insects will target the underground pests, however. That is a job for the nematode Steinernema carpocapsae, which will attack underground colonies. NemAttack Sc You can find these sold under the brand name NemAttack at Arbico Organics. Learn more about how to use beneficial nematodes in our guide. Organic Pesticides Using pesticides to control these insects can be difficult, thanks to their protective waxy coating. Good coverage and penetration of this fluffy coating is essential to achieve any effect with contact products, whether organic or chemical in nature. Most of the products that are effective against smooth aphid types can provide some control of the fluffy types as well, provided coverage is adequate. Monterey Horticultural Oil Horticultural oils, such as this one from Monterey that is available from Arbico Organics, and insecticidal soap products such as this one from Bonide, also available at Arbico Organics, are two viable options. Bonide Insecticidal Soap There are no organic or chemical controls available that are specific to the treatment of underground pests. Chemical Pesticides Chemical control is rarely justified with these pests. As with organic contact products, chemical contact pesticides such as pyrethroids are not very effective against them either. Systemic chemicals, those that are absorbed and translocated throughout the plant, are the most effective, as these are sucked up with the sap they feed on. However, chemical applications can actually serve to encourage insect outbreaks, as these can be toxic to beneficial insects as well. Reducing or wiping out predator populations gives the aphids a chance to reach infestation levels again. They are not choosy about pollinators either, so avoid using chemicals on plants that attract bees and other pollinators, and if you must use them as a last resort, wait until the plants have finished blooming. Beware the Plant-Eating Cotton Balls Though these insects can look like innocent bits of floating cotton, they can quickly settle into fluffy plant-sucking colonies. Not only can they cause leaf curl or stem galls, they also don’t exactly create what you’d call a desirable aesthetic on ornamental trees and shrubs. Luckily, the damage they cause is often minor, and nature provides some control to go along with your cultural and physical strategies.  Have you ever dealt with these downy insects before? Let us know down in the comments what plants they targeted, and how you controlled them! And for more information about other plant-sucking insect pests, have a read of these guides next: © Ask the Experts, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. See our TOS for more details. Originally published August 18th, 2021. Last updated April 2nd, 2025. Product photos via Arbico Organics. Uncredited photos: Shutterstock. !function(f,b,e,v,n,t,s) if(f.fbq)return;n=f.fbq=function()n.callMethod? n.callMethod.apply(n,arguments):n.queue.push(arguments); if(!f._fbq)f._fbq=n;n.push=n;n.loaded=!0;n.version='2.0'; n.queue=[];t=b.createElement(e);t.async=!0; t.src=v;s=b.getElementsByTagName(e)[0]; s.parentNode.insertBefore(t,s)(window, document,'script', ' fbq('init', '176410929431717'); fbq('track', 'PageView'); Source link

[tumibaba]

Eriosomatinae Just in case there weren’t enough white waxy insects for you to tell apart already, such as scales and mealybugs, here is another fluffy type. Now introducing the shrub- and tree-loving woolly aphid, an insect that takes the waxy coating game to a whole new level. Aphids are notorious plant pests, and the fuzzy types can be just as hard to identify by species – and sometimes even harder to control – than their smooth, shiny relatives. We link to vendors to help you find relevant products. If you buy from one of our links, we may earn a commission. We’ve compiled everything you need to know about these sap-sucking pests, so you’ll know how to deal with them when they show up on your apples or landscape trees. Here’s what we’ll cover in this guide: What Are Woolly Aphids? Belonging to the Aphididae subfamily Eriosomatinae, these pests suck the sap from a variety of plants, especially trees and shrubs such as edible and ornamental apple, cotoneaster, maple, elm, alder, and beech. They feed on both underground and aboveground parts of these plants, from the roots to the twigs and leaves. Galls caused by woolly apple aphids. This causes twisted and curled leaves as well as chlorosis, or yellowing of the foliage, and may result in reduced plant vigor. Some species cause galls, which can provide entry points for fungal diseases. However, the primary negative effect of these woolly creatures is cosmetic, and their main hosts are ornamental, so infestations of white fluffy insects are not appealing. Like other sap-sucking pests, these insects exude sweet honeydew, which attracts ants, and an ugly black sooty mold can grow on stickied leaf surfaces. Identification Woolly aphids have three-millimeter-long, pear-shaped bodies that are covered in a white, waxy, fluffy coating. There are several common species to look out for on your plants. Often, the host gives the best clues to help identify what species is attacking, as the insects themselves can look quite similar. The woolly apple aphid, Eriosoma lanigerum, is a common and serious apple pest worldwide. As its name suggests, it loves apples of all types, including ornamental crabapples, but it will also feed on elm, alder, mountain ash, hawthorn, serviceberry, and pyracantha. These have bluish-black bodies under their white fluff, and they feed on the base of new shoots, branches, roots, and trunk wounds. Their feeding causes galls to form, and these cracked and swollen areas on branches – perfect entry points for diseases such as rots and canker – are the primary reason these insects are such serious pests, and why they are sometimes called American blight aphids. Eriosoma lanigerum. Woolly elm aphids, Eriosoma americanum, feed on American elm foliage in the spring, and the roots of serviceberry (also known as Saskatoon berry) as an alternate host in the summer. On elms, feeding causes the edges of new leaves to roll inwards and form a gall-like swelling where they hide out. On Saskatoon berry bushes, especially young plants, root feeding can result in stunting and reduced berry production, and the damage can be fatal. On the elm, the adult has a red-orange body with some white sticky bubbles, or it may be covered with a waxy cotton-like coating. On the serviceberry, where they are found underground, they are light blue to black, and may have some waxy fluff on their thoraxes. The woolly alder aphid, Prociphilus tessellatus, feeds on silver maple in the spring, and alder in the summer. This is the super fluffy species you may already be familiar with, and they look like pieces of cotton floating through the air when they’re flying, or fungi when they’re congregated on twigs. Even their eggs are woolly. Besides looking a little strange or even ugly on the plant, this species doesn’t cause significant damage. Large populations can cause shriveled leaves, and the honeydew they produce can make vehicles, sidewalks, and any lawn furniture positioned under the maple or alder trees sticky. But these issues aren’t usually serious enough to warrant control. Biology and Life Cycle Most of the woolly aphids have two primary hosts, which they alternate feeding and reproducing on. Often, they lay eggs on the primary host, the eggs overwinter in the cracks of bark, females hatch in the spring, and they begin to produce live offspring. They will spend a few generations feeding and reproducing, without males, on the primary host plant. A generation of winged females will fly to the secondary host soon after, and they will spend most of the rest of the season feeding and reproducing there. In the late summer or early fall, a second wave of winged females head back to the primary host, and produce a generation of males and females. These mate, and each female lays one egg that will overwinter and hatch in the spring, producing another all-female generation. Some species will hatch before winter, and spend the season as nymphs on the host plant’s roots. Females can produce hundreds of offspring during their one-month lifespan, and these offspring reach sexual maturity in four to ten days. One of my professors described this as giving birth to live, pregnant young. Thus, populations can explode very quickly. Monitoring Keeping a close eye out for these pests before their populations – and the damage they cause – gets out of control is essential for effective management. The downside is, once the damage is visible, management options are often limited or rendered ineffective. Check the undersides of leaves for woolly aphid populations. Look out for shiny, sticky honeydew and an accumulation of waxy shed skins on the upper side of leaves. They are easily mistaken for mealybugs and scale insects. But mealybugs often have tails, and both mealybugs and scales are flat while aphids are pear shaped. Often, the distinguishing feature of aphids is the two tailpipes (cornicles) on the end of their abdomens, but they are short and often covered by fluff on woolly species. Organic Control Methods Control is not often warranted, especially on mature, healthy trees and shrubs. However, infestations of certain species, especially Eriosoma lanigerum, can become serious enough to bust out the control options. If control is necessary, approach these pests with an integrated pest management (IPM) strategy, combining monitoring with cultural and biological methods for safe, effective control. Cultural and Physical Control Keep your plants healthy to achieve tolerance and minimize damage. Avoid planting one host – elm, for example – near or in the same vicinity as the other host – such as serviceberry. Try to avoid cultivation of one host in the same area where wild alternate hosts are growing as well. Physical control methods can be hard or impossible to use on tall trees, but on smaller trees and shrubs, you can use a strong stream of water from the hose or scrub infested areas with a stiff brush to dislodge colonies. Prune out and destroy heavily infested twigs and branches. These pests spread by crawling, flying, or being transported via plant material, clothing, gardening shoes, and tools, so examine new plants and clean your tools between working with infested and non-infested plants. Plant resistant varieties of common host species. For example, ‘Northern Spy’ apples are resistant to the woolly apple aphid. Biological Control Parasitic wasps are the primary enemies of these pests in general, and they can often provide adequate control of small populations. Aphelinus mali, for example, specifically targets the woolly apple aphid. Aphelinus mali hatch holes. Lacewings, ladybugs, hoverflies, and even earwigs will snack on them as well. Aphidoletes aphidimyza is a commercially available predator commonly referred to as the aphid midge that can be applied and works well in indoor settings such as greenhouses. The adults lay eggs near the aphids, and the resulting larvae prey on the pests. Aphidoletes aphidimyza Find these predators available at Arbico Organics. None of these beneficial insects will target the underground pests, however. That is a job for the nematode Steinernema carpocapsae, which will attack underground colonies. NemAttack Sc You can find these sold under the brand name NemAttack at Arbico Organics. Learn more about how to use beneficial nematodes in our guide. Organic Pesticides Using pesticides to control these insects can be difficult, thanks to their protective waxy coating. Good coverage and penetration of this fluffy coating is essential to achieve any effect with contact products, whether organic or chemical in nature. Most of the products that are effective against smooth aphid types can provide some control of the fluffy types as well, provided coverage is adequate. Monterey Horticultural Oil Horticultural oils, such as this one from Monterey that is available from Arbico Organics, and insecticidal soap products such as this one from Bonide, also available at Arbico Organics, are two viable options. Bonide Insecticidal Soap There are no organic or chemical controls available that are specific to the treatment of underground pests. Chemical Pesticides Chemical control is rarely justified with these pests. As with organic contact products, chemical contact pesticides such as pyrethroids are not very effective against them either. Systemic chemicals, those that are absorbed and translocated throughout the plant, are the most effective, as these are sucked up with the sap they feed on. However, chemical applications can actually serve to encourage insect outbreaks, as these can be toxic to beneficial insects as well. Reducing or wiping out predator populations gives the aphids a chance to reach infestation levels again. They are not choosy about pollinators either, so avoid using chemicals on plants that attract bees and other pollinators, and if you must use them as a last resort, wait until the plants have finished blooming. Beware the Plant-Eating Cotton Balls Though these insects can look like innocent bits of floating cotton, they can quickly settle into fluffy plant-sucking colonies. Not only can they cause leaf curl or stem galls, they also don’t exactly create what you’d call a desirable aesthetic on ornamental trees and shrubs. Luckily, the damage they cause is often minor, and nature provides some control to go along with your cultural and physical strategies.  Have you ever dealt with these downy insects before? Let us know down in the comments what plants they targeted, and how you controlled them! And for more information about other plant-sucking insect pests, have a read of these guides next: © Ask the Experts, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. See our TOS for more details. Originally published August 18th, 2021. Last updated April 2nd, 2025. Product photos via Arbico Organics. Uncredited photos: Shutterstock. !function(f,b,e,v,n,t,s) if(f.fbq)return;n=f.fbq=function()n.callMethod? n.callMethod.apply(n,arguments):n.queue.push(arguments); if(!f._fbq)f._fbq=n;n.push=n;n.loaded=!0;n.version='2.0'; n.queue=[];t=b.createElement(e);t.async=!0; t.src=v;s=b.getElementsByTagName(e)[0]; s.parentNode.insertBefore(t,s)(window, document,'script', ' fbq('init', '176410929431717'); fbq('track', 'PageView'); Source link

[romaleen]

Eriosomatinae Just in case there weren’t enough white waxy insects for you to tell apart already, such as scales and mealybugs, here is another fluffy type. Now introducing the shrub- and tree-loving woolly aphid, an insect that takes the waxy coating game to a whole new level. Aphids are notorious plant pests, and the fuzzy types can be just as hard to identify by species – and sometimes even harder to control – than their smooth, shiny relatives. We link to vendors to help you find relevant products. If you buy from one of our links, we may earn a commission. We’ve compiled everything you need to know about these sap-sucking pests, so you’ll know how to deal with them when they show up on your apples or landscape trees. Here’s what we’ll cover in this guide: What Are Woolly Aphids? Belonging to the Aphididae subfamily Eriosomatinae, these pests suck the sap from a variety of plants, especially trees and shrubs such as edible and ornamental apple, cotoneaster, maple, elm, alder, and beech. They feed on both underground and aboveground parts of these plants, from the roots to the twigs and leaves. Galls caused by woolly apple aphids. This causes twisted and curled leaves as well as chlorosis, or yellowing of the foliage, and may result in reduced plant vigor. Some species cause galls, which can provide entry points for fungal diseases. However, the primary negative effect of these woolly creatures is cosmetic, and their main hosts are ornamental, so infestations of white fluffy insects are not appealing. Like other sap-sucking pests, these insects exude sweet honeydew, which attracts ants, and an ugly black sooty mold can grow on stickied leaf surfaces. Identification Woolly aphids have three-millimeter-long, pear-shaped bodies that are covered in a white, waxy, fluffy coating. There are several common species to look out for on your plants. Often, the host gives the best clues to help identify what species is attacking, as the insects themselves can look quite similar. The woolly apple aphid, Eriosoma lanigerum, is a common and serious apple pest worldwide. As its name suggests, it loves apples of all types, including ornamental crabapples, but it will also feed on elm, alder, mountain ash, hawthorn, serviceberry, and pyracantha. These have bluish-black bodies under their white fluff, and they feed on the base of new shoots, branches, roots, and trunk wounds. Their feeding causes galls to form, and these cracked and swollen areas on branches – perfect entry points for diseases such as rots and canker – are the primary reason these insects are such serious pests, and why they are sometimes called American blight aphids. Eriosoma lanigerum. Woolly elm aphids, Eriosoma americanum, feed on American elm foliage in the spring, and the roots of serviceberry (also known as Saskatoon berry) as an alternate host in the summer. On elms, feeding causes the edges of new leaves to roll inwards and form a gall-like swelling where they hide out. On Saskatoon berry bushes, especially young plants, root feeding can result in stunting and reduced berry production, and the damage can be fatal. On the elm, the adult has a red-orange body with some white sticky bubbles, or it may be covered with a waxy cotton-like coating. On the serviceberry, where they are found underground, they are light blue to black, and may have some waxy fluff on their thoraxes. The woolly alder aphid, Prociphilus tessellatus, feeds on silver maple in the spring, and alder in the summer. This is the super fluffy species you may already be familiar with, and they look like pieces of cotton floating through the air when they’re flying, or fungi when they’re congregated on twigs. Even their eggs are woolly. Besides looking a little strange or even ugly on the plant, this species doesn’t cause significant damage. Large populations can cause shriveled leaves, and the honeydew they produce can make vehicles, sidewalks, and any lawn furniture positioned under the maple or alder trees sticky. But these issues aren’t usually serious enough to warrant control. Biology and Life Cycle Most of the woolly aphids have two primary hosts, which they alternate feeding and reproducing on. Often, they lay eggs on the primary host, the eggs overwinter in the cracks of bark, females hatch in the spring, and they begin to produce live offspring. They will spend a few generations feeding and reproducing, without males, on the primary host plant. A generation of winged females will fly to the secondary host soon after, and they will spend most of the rest of the season feeding and reproducing there. In the late summer or early fall, a second wave of winged females head back to the primary host, and produce a generation of males and females. These mate, and each female lays one egg that will overwinter and hatch in the spring, producing another all-female generation. Some species will hatch before winter, and spend the season as nymphs on the host plant’s roots. Females can produce hundreds of offspring during their one-month lifespan, and these offspring reach sexual maturity in four to ten days. One of my professors described this as giving birth to live, pregnant young. Thus, populations can explode very quickly. Monitoring Keeping a close eye out for these pests before their populations – and the damage they cause – gets out of control is essential for effective management. The downside is, once the damage is visible, management options are often limited or rendered ineffective. Check the undersides of leaves for woolly aphid populations. Look out for shiny, sticky honeydew and an accumulation of waxy shed skins on the upper side of leaves. They are easily mistaken for mealybugs and scale insects. But mealybugs often have tails, and both mealybugs and scales are flat while aphids are pear shaped. Often, the distinguishing feature of aphids is the two tailpipes (cornicles) on the end of their abdomens, but they are short and often covered by fluff on woolly species. Organic Control Methods Control is not often warranted, especially on mature, healthy trees and shrubs. However, infestations of certain species, especially Eriosoma lanigerum, can become serious enough to bust out the control options. If control is necessary, approach these pests with an integrated pest management (IPM) strategy, combining monitoring with cultural and biological methods for safe, effective control. Cultural and Physical Control Keep your plants healthy to achieve tolerance and minimize damage. Avoid planting one host – elm, for example – near or in the same vicinity as the other host – such as serviceberry. Try to avoid cultivation of one host in the same area where wild alternate hosts are growing as well. Physical control methods can be hard or impossible to use on tall trees, but on smaller trees and shrubs, you can use a strong stream of water from the hose or scrub infested areas with a stiff brush to dislodge colonies. Prune out and destroy heavily infested twigs and branches. These pests spread by crawling, flying, or being transported via plant material, clothing, gardening shoes, and tools, so examine new plants and clean your tools between working with infested and non-infested plants. Plant resistant varieties of common host species. For example, ‘Northern Spy’ apples are resistant to the woolly apple aphid. Biological Control Parasitic wasps are the primary enemies of these pests in general, and they can often provide adequate control of small populations. Aphelinus mali, for example, specifically targets the woolly apple aphid. Aphelinus mali hatch holes. Lacewings, ladybugs, hoverflies, and even earwigs will snack on them as well. Aphidoletes aphidimyza is a commercially available predator commonly referred to as the aphid midge that can be applied and works well in indoor settings such as greenhouses. The adults lay eggs near the aphids, and the resulting larvae prey on the pests. Aphidoletes aphidimyza Find these predators available at Arbico Organics. None of these beneficial insects will target the underground pests, however. That is a job for the nematode Steinernema carpocapsae, which will attack underground colonies. NemAttack Sc You can find these sold under the brand name NemAttack at Arbico Organics. Learn more about how to use beneficial nematodes in our guide. Organic Pesticides Using pesticides to control these insects can be difficult, thanks to their protective waxy coating. Good coverage and penetration of this fluffy coating is essential to achieve any effect with contact products, whether organic or chemical in nature. Most of the products that are effective against smooth aphid types can provide some control of the fluffy types as well, provided coverage is adequate. Monterey Horticultural Oil Horticultural oils, such as this one from Monterey that is available from Arbico Organics, and insecticidal soap products such as this one from Bonide, also available at Arbico Organics, are two viable options. Bonide Insecticidal Soap There are no organic or chemical controls available that are specific to the treatment of underground pests. Chemical Pesticides Chemical control is rarely justified with these pests. As with organic contact products, chemical contact pesticides such as pyrethroids are not very effective against them either. Systemic chemicals, those that are absorbed and translocated throughout the plant, are the most effective, as these are sucked up with the sap they feed on. However, chemical applications can actually serve to encourage insect outbreaks, as these can be toxic to beneficial insects as well. Reducing or wiping out predator populations gives the aphids a chance to reach infestation levels again. They are not choosy about pollinators either, so avoid using chemicals on plants that attract bees and other pollinators, and if you must use them as a last resort, wait until the plants have finished blooming. Beware the Plant-Eating Cotton Balls Though these insects can look like innocent bits of floating cotton, they can quickly settle into fluffy plant-sucking colonies. Not only can they cause leaf curl or stem galls, they also don’t exactly create what you’d call a desirable aesthetic on ornamental trees and shrubs. Luckily, the damage they cause is often minor, and nature provides some control to go along with your cultural and physical strategies.  Have you ever dealt with these downy insects before? Let us know down in the comments what plants they targeted, and how you controlled them! And for more information about other plant-sucking insect pests, have a read of these guides next: © Ask the Experts, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. See our TOS for more details. Originally published August 18th, 2021. Last updated April 2nd, 2025. Product photos via Arbico Organics. Uncredited photos: Shutterstock. !function(f,b,e,v,n,t,s) if(f.fbq)return;n=f.fbq=function()n.callMethod? n.callMethod.apply(n,arguments):n.queue.push(arguments); if(!f._fbq)f._fbq=n;n.push=n;n.loaded=!0;n.version='2.0'; n.queue=[];t=b.createElement(e);t.async=!0; t.src=v;s=b.getElementsByTagName(e)[0]; s.parentNode.insertBefore(t,s)(window, document,'script', ' fbq('init', '176410929431717'); fbq('track', 'PageView'); Source link

[monaleen101]

Eriosomatinae Just in case there weren’t enough white waxy insects for you to tell apart already, such as scales and mealybugs, here is another fluffy type. Now introducing the shrub- and tree-loving woolly aphid, an insect that takes the waxy coating game to a whole new level. Aphids are notorious plant pests, and the fuzzy types can be just as hard to identify by species – and sometimes even harder to control – than their smooth, shiny relatives. We link to vendors to help you find relevant products. If you buy from one of our links, we may earn a commission. We’ve compiled everything you need to know about these sap-sucking pests, so you’ll know how to deal with them when they show up on your apples or landscape trees. Here’s what we’ll cover in this guide: What Are Woolly Aphids? Belonging to the Aphididae subfamily Eriosomatinae, these pests suck the sap from a variety of plants, especially trees and shrubs such as edible and ornamental apple, cotoneaster, maple, elm, alder, and beech. They feed on both underground and aboveground parts of these plants, from the roots to the twigs and leaves. Galls caused by woolly apple aphids. This causes twisted and curled leaves as well as chlorosis, or yellowing of the foliage, and may result in reduced plant vigor. Some species cause galls, which can provide entry points for fungal diseases. However, the primary negative effect of these woolly creatures is cosmetic, and their main hosts are ornamental, so infestations of white fluffy insects are not appealing. Like other sap-sucking pests, these insects exude sweet honeydew, which attracts ants, and an ugly black sooty mold can grow on stickied leaf surfaces. Identification Woolly aphids have three-millimeter-long, pear-shaped bodies that are covered in a white, waxy, fluffy coating. There are several common species to look out for on your plants. Often, the host gives the best clues to help identify what species is attacking, as the insects themselves can look quite similar. The woolly apple aphid, Eriosoma lanigerum, is a common and serious apple pest worldwide. As its name suggests, it loves apples of all types, including ornamental crabapples, but it will also feed on elm, alder, mountain ash, hawthorn, serviceberry, and pyracantha. These have bluish-black bodies under their white fluff, and they feed on the base of new shoots, branches, roots, and trunk wounds. Their feeding causes galls to form, and these cracked and swollen areas on branches – perfect entry points for diseases such as rots and canker – are the primary reason these insects are such serious pests, and why they are sometimes called American blight aphids. Eriosoma lanigerum. Woolly elm aphids, Eriosoma americanum, feed on American elm foliage in the spring, and the roots of serviceberry (also known as Saskatoon berry) as an alternate host in the summer. On elms, feeding causes the edges of new leaves to roll inwards and form a gall-like swelling where they hide out. On Saskatoon berry bushes, especially young plants, root feeding can result in stunting and reduced berry production, and the damage can be fatal. On the elm, the adult has a red-orange body with some white sticky bubbles, or it may be covered with a waxy cotton-like coating. On the serviceberry, where they are found underground, they are light blue to black, and may have some waxy fluff on their thoraxes. The woolly alder aphid, Prociphilus tessellatus, feeds on silver maple in the spring, and alder in the summer. This is the super fluffy species you may already be familiar with, and they look like pieces of cotton floating through the air when they’re flying, or fungi when they’re congregated on twigs. Even their eggs are woolly. Besides looking a little strange or even ugly on the plant, this species doesn’t cause significant damage. Large populations can cause shriveled leaves, and the honeydew they produce can make vehicles, sidewalks, and any lawn furniture positioned under the maple or alder trees sticky. But these issues aren’t usually serious enough to warrant control. Biology and Life Cycle Most of the woolly aphids have two primary hosts, which they alternate feeding and reproducing on. Often, they lay eggs on the primary host, the eggs overwinter in the cracks of bark, females hatch in the spring, and they begin to produce live offspring. They will spend a few generations feeding and reproducing, without males, on the primary host plant. A generation of winged females will fly to the secondary host soon after, and they will spend most of the rest of the season feeding and reproducing there. In the late summer or early fall, a second wave of winged females head back to the primary host, and produce a generation of males and females. These mate, and each female lays one egg that will overwinter and hatch in the spring, producing another all-female generation. Some species will hatch before winter, and spend the season as nymphs on the host plant’s roots. Females can produce hundreds of offspring during their one-month lifespan, and these offspring reach sexual maturity in four to ten days. One of my professors described this as giving birth to live, pregnant young. Thus, populations can explode very quickly. Monitoring Keeping a close eye out for these pests before their populations – and the damage they cause – gets out of control is essential for effective management. The downside is, once the damage is visible, management options are often limited or rendered ineffective. Check the undersides of leaves for woolly aphid populations. Look out for shiny, sticky honeydew and an accumulation of waxy shed skins on the upper side of leaves. They are easily mistaken for mealybugs and scale insects. But mealybugs often have tails, and both mealybugs and scales are flat while aphids are pear shaped. Often, the distinguishing feature of aphids is the two tailpipes (cornicles) on the end of their abdomens, but they are short and often covered by fluff on woolly species. Organic Control Methods Control is not often warranted, especially on mature, healthy trees and shrubs. However, infestations of certain species, especially Eriosoma lanigerum, can become serious enough to bust out the control options. If control is necessary, approach these pests with an integrated pest management (IPM) strategy, combining monitoring with cultural and biological methods for safe, effective control. Cultural and Physical Control Keep your plants healthy to achieve tolerance and minimize damage. Avoid planting one host – elm, for example – near or in the same vicinity as the other host – such as serviceberry. Try to avoid cultivation of one host in the same area where wild alternate hosts are growing as well. Physical control methods can be hard or impossible to use on tall trees, but on smaller trees and shrubs, you can use a strong stream of water from the hose or scrub infested areas with a stiff brush to dislodge colonies. Prune out and destroy heavily infested twigs and branches. These pests spread by crawling, flying, or being transported via plant material, clothing, gardening shoes, and tools, so examine new plants and clean your tools between working with infested and non-infested plants. Plant resistant varieties of common host species. For example, ‘Northern Spy’ apples are resistant to the woolly apple aphid. Biological Control Parasitic wasps are the primary enemies of these pests in general, and they can often provide adequate control of small populations. Aphelinus mali, for example, specifically targets the woolly apple aphid. Aphelinus mali hatch holes. Lacewings, ladybugs, hoverflies, and even earwigs will snack on them as well. Aphidoletes aphidimyza is a commercially available predator commonly referred to as the aphid midge that can be applied and works well in indoor settings such as greenhouses. The adults lay eggs near the aphids, and the resulting larvae prey on the pests. Aphidoletes aphidimyza Find these predators available at Arbico Organics. None of these beneficial insects will target the underground pests, however. That is a job for the nematode Steinernema carpocapsae, which will attack underground colonies. NemAttack Sc You can find these sold under the brand name NemAttack at Arbico Organics. Learn more about how to use beneficial nematodes in our guide. Organic Pesticides Using pesticides to control these insects can be difficult, thanks to their protective waxy coating. Good coverage and penetration of this fluffy coating is essential to achieve any effect with contact products, whether organic or chemical in nature. Most of the products that are effective against smooth aphid types can provide some control of the fluffy types as well, provided coverage is adequate. Monterey Horticultural Oil Horticultural oils, such as this one from Monterey that is available from Arbico Organics, and insecticidal soap products such as this one from Bonide, also available at Arbico Organics, are two viable options. Bonide Insecticidal Soap There are no organic or chemical controls available that are specific to the treatment of underground pests. Chemical Pesticides Chemical control is rarely justified with these pests. As with organic contact products, chemical contact pesticides such as pyrethroids are not very effective against them either. Systemic chemicals, those that are absorbed and translocated throughout the plant, are the most effective, as these are sucked up with the sap they feed on. However, chemical applications can actually serve to encourage insect outbreaks, as these can be toxic to beneficial insects as well. Reducing or wiping out predator populations gives the aphids a chance to reach infestation levels again. They are not choosy about pollinators either, so avoid using chemicals on plants that attract bees and other pollinators, and if you must use them as a last resort, wait until the plants have finished blooming. Beware the Plant-Eating Cotton Balls Though these insects can look like innocent bits of floating cotton, they can quickly settle into fluffy plant-sucking colonies. Not only can they cause leaf curl or stem galls, they also don’t exactly create what you’d call a desirable aesthetic on ornamental trees and shrubs. Luckily, the damage they cause is often minor, and nature provides some control to go along with your cultural and physical strategies.  Have you ever dealt with these downy insects before? Let us know down in the comments what plants they targeted, and how you controlled them! And for more information about other plant-sucking insect pests, have a read of these guides next: © Ask the Experts, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. See our TOS for more details. Originally published August 18th, 2021. Last updated April 2nd, 2025. Product photos via Arbico Organics. Uncredited photos: Shutterstock. !function(f,b,e,v,n,t,s) if(f.fbq)return;n=f.fbq=function()n.callMethod? n.callMethod.apply(n,arguments):n.queue.push(arguments); if(!f._fbq)f._fbq=n;n.push=n;n.loaded=!0;n.version='2.0'; n.queue=[];t=b.createElement(e);t.async=!0; t.src=v;s=b.getElementsByTagName(e)[0]; s.parentNode.insertBefore(t,s)(window, document,'script', ' fbq('init', '176410929431717'); fbq('track', 'PageView'); Source link

[iamownerofme]

Eriosomatinae Just in case there weren’t enough white waxy insects for you to tell apart already, such as scales and mealybugs, here is another fluffy type. Now introducing the shrub- and tree-loving woolly aphid, an insect that takes the waxy coating game to a whole new level. Aphids are notorious plant pests, and the fuzzy types can be just as hard to identify by species – and sometimes even harder to control – than their smooth, shiny relatives. We link to vendors to help you find relevant products. If you buy from one of our links, we may earn a commission. We’ve compiled everything you need to know about these sap-sucking pests, so you’ll know how to deal with them when they show up on your apples or landscape trees. Here’s what we’ll cover in this guide: What Are Woolly Aphids? Belonging to the Aphididae subfamily Eriosomatinae, these pests suck the sap from a variety of plants, especially trees and shrubs such as edible and ornamental apple, cotoneaster, maple, elm, alder, and beech. They feed on both underground and aboveground parts of these plants, from the roots to the twigs and leaves. Galls caused by woolly apple aphids. This causes twisted and curled leaves as well as chlorosis, or yellowing of the foliage, and may result in reduced plant vigor. Some species cause galls, which can provide entry points for fungal diseases. However, the primary negative effect of these woolly creatures is cosmetic, and their main hosts are ornamental, so infestations of white fluffy insects are not appealing. Like other sap-sucking pests, these insects exude sweet honeydew, which attracts ants, and an ugly black sooty mold can grow on stickied leaf surfaces. Identification Woolly aphids have three-millimeter-long, pear-shaped bodies that are covered in a white, waxy, fluffy coating. There are several common species to look out for on your plants. Often, the host gives the best clues to help identify what species is attacking, as the insects themselves can look quite similar. The woolly apple aphid, Eriosoma lanigerum, is a common and serious apple pest worldwide. As its name suggests, it loves apples of all types, including ornamental crabapples, but it will also feed on elm, alder, mountain ash, hawthorn, serviceberry, and pyracantha. These have bluish-black bodies under their white fluff, and they feed on the base of new shoots, branches, roots, and trunk wounds. Their feeding causes galls to form, and these cracked and swollen areas on branches – perfect entry points for diseases such as rots and canker – are the primary reason these insects are such serious pests, and why they are sometimes called American blight aphids. Eriosoma lanigerum. Woolly elm aphids, Eriosoma americanum, feed on American elm foliage in the spring, and the roots of serviceberry (also known as Saskatoon berry) as an alternate host in the summer. On elms, feeding causes the edges of new leaves to roll inwards and form a gall-like swelling where they hide out. On Saskatoon berry bushes, especially young plants, root feeding can result in stunting and reduced berry production, and the damage can be fatal. On the elm, the adult has a red-orange body with some white sticky bubbles, or it may be covered with a waxy cotton-like coating. On the serviceberry, where they are found underground, they are light blue to black, and may have some waxy fluff on their thoraxes. The woolly alder aphid, Prociphilus tessellatus, feeds on silver maple in the spring, and alder in the summer. This is the super fluffy species you may already be familiar with, and they look like pieces of cotton floating through the air when they’re flying, or fungi when they’re congregated on twigs. Even their eggs are woolly. Besides looking a little strange or even ugly on the plant, this species doesn’t cause significant damage. Large populations can cause shriveled leaves, and the honeydew they produce can make vehicles, sidewalks, and any lawn furniture positioned under the maple or alder trees sticky. But these issues aren’t usually serious enough to warrant control. Biology and Life Cycle Most of the woolly aphids have two primary hosts, which they alternate feeding and reproducing on. Often, they lay eggs on the primary host, the eggs overwinter in the cracks of bark, females hatch in the spring, and they begin to produce live offspring. They will spend a few generations feeding and reproducing, without males, on the primary host plant. A generation of winged females will fly to the secondary host soon after, and they will spend most of the rest of the season feeding and reproducing there. In the late summer or early fall, a second wave of winged females head back to the primary host, and produce a generation of males and females. These mate, and each female lays one egg that will overwinter and hatch in the spring, producing another all-female generation. Some species will hatch before winter, and spend the season as nymphs on the host plant’s roots. Females can produce hundreds of offspring during their one-month lifespan, and these offspring reach sexual maturity in four to ten days. One of my professors described this as giving birth to live, pregnant young. Thus, populations can explode very quickly. Monitoring Keeping a close eye out for these pests before their populations – and the damage they cause – gets out of control is essential for effective management. The downside is, once the damage is visible, management options are often limited or rendered ineffective. Check the undersides of leaves for woolly aphid populations. Look out for shiny, sticky honeydew and an accumulation of waxy shed skins on the upper side of leaves. They are easily mistaken for mealybugs and scale insects. But mealybugs often have tails, and both mealybugs and scales are flat while aphids are pear shaped. Often, the distinguishing feature of aphids is the two tailpipes (cornicles) on the end of their abdomens, but they are short and often covered by fluff on woolly species. Organic Control Methods Control is not often warranted, especially on mature, healthy trees and shrubs. However, infestations of certain species, especially Eriosoma lanigerum, can become serious enough to bust out the control options. If control is necessary, approach these pests with an integrated pest management (IPM) strategy, combining monitoring with cultural and biological methods for safe, effective control. Cultural and Physical Control Keep your plants healthy to achieve tolerance and minimize damage. Avoid planting one host – elm, for example – near or in the same vicinity as the other host – such as serviceberry. Try to avoid cultivation of one host in the same area where wild alternate hosts are growing as well. Physical control methods can be hard or impossible to use on tall trees, but on smaller trees and shrubs, you can use a strong stream of water from the hose or scrub infested areas with a stiff brush to dislodge colonies. Prune out and destroy heavily infested twigs and branches. These pests spread by crawling, flying, or being transported via plant material, clothing, gardening shoes, and tools, so examine new plants and clean your tools between working with infested and non-infested plants. Plant resistant varieties of common host species. For example, ‘Northern Spy’ apples are resistant to the woolly apple aphid. Biological Control Parasitic wasps are the primary enemies of these pests in general, and they can often provide adequate control of small populations. Aphelinus mali, for example, specifically targets the woolly apple aphid. Aphelinus mali hatch holes. Lacewings, ladybugs, hoverflies, and even earwigs will snack on them as well. Aphidoletes aphidimyza is a commercially available predator commonly referred to as the aphid midge that can be applied and works well in indoor settings such as greenhouses. The adults lay eggs near the aphids, and the resulting larvae prey on the pests. Aphidoletes aphidimyza Find these predators available at Arbico Organics. None of these beneficial insects will target the underground pests, however. That is a job for the nematode Steinernema carpocapsae, which will attack underground colonies. NemAttack Sc You can find these sold under the brand name NemAttack at Arbico Organics. Learn more about how to use beneficial nematodes in our guide. Organic Pesticides Using pesticides to control these insects can be difficult, thanks to their protective waxy coating. Good coverage and penetration of this fluffy coating is essential to achieve any effect with contact products, whether organic or chemical in nature. Most of the products that are effective against smooth aphid types can provide some control of the fluffy types as well, provided coverage is adequate. Monterey Horticultural Oil Horticultural oils, such as this one from Monterey that is available from Arbico Organics, and insecticidal soap products such as this one from Bonide, also available at Arbico Organics, are two viable options. Bonide Insecticidal Soap There are no organic or chemical controls available that are specific to the treatment of underground pests. Chemical Pesticides Chemical control is rarely justified with these pests. As with organic contact products, chemical contact pesticides such as pyrethroids are not very effective against them either. Systemic chemicals, those that are absorbed and translocated throughout the plant, are the most effective, as these are sucked up with the sap they feed on. However, chemical applications can actually serve to encourage insect outbreaks, as these can be toxic to beneficial insects as well. Reducing or wiping out predator populations gives the aphids a chance to reach infestation levels again. They are not choosy about pollinators either, so avoid using chemicals on plants that attract bees and other pollinators, and if you must use them as a last resort, wait until the plants have finished blooming. Beware the Plant-Eating Cotton Balls Though these insects can look like innocent bits of floating cotton, they can quickly settle into fluffy plant-sucking colonies. Not only can they cause leaf curl or stem galls, they also don’t exactly create what you’d call a desirable aesthetic on ornamental trees and shrubs. Luckily, the damage they cause is often minor, and nature provides some control to go along with your cultural and physical strategies.  Have you ever dealt with these downy insects before? Let us know down in the comments what plants they targeted, and how you controlled them! And for more information about other plant-sucking insect pests, have a read of these guides next: © Ask the Experts, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. See our TOS for more details. Originally published August 18th, 2021. Last updated April 2nd, 2025. Product photos via Arbico Organics. Uncredited photos: Shutterstock. !function(f,b,e,v,n,t,s) if(f.fbq)return;n=f.fbq=function()n.callMethod? n.callMethod.apply(n,arguments):n.queue.push(arguments); if(!f._fbq)f._fbq=n;n.push=n;n.loaded=!0;n.version='2.0'; n.queue=[];t=b.createElement(e);t.async=!0; t.src=v;s=b.getElementsByTagName(e)[0]; s.parentNode.insertBefore(t,s)(window, document,'script', ' fbq('init', '176410929431717'); fbq('track', 'PageView'); Source link

[shelyold]

Eriosomatinae Just in case there weren’t enough white waxy insects for you to tell apart already, such as scales and mealybugs, here is another fluffy type. Now introducing the shrub- and tree-loving woolly aphid, an insect that takes the waxy coating game to a whole new level. Aphids are notorious plant pests, and the fuzzy types can be just as hard to identify by species – and sometimes even harder to control – than their smooth, shiny relatives. We link to vendors to help you find relevant products. If you buy from one of our links, we may earn a commission. We’ve compiled everything you need to know about these sap-sucking pests, so you’ll know how to deal with them when they show up on your apples or landscape trees. Here’s what we’ll cover in this guide: What Are Woolly Aphids? Belonging to the Aphididae subfamily Eriosomatinae, these pests suck the sap from a variety of plants, especially trees and shrubs such as edible and ornamental apple, cotoneaster, maple, elm, alder, and beech. They feed on both underground and aboveground parts of these plants, from the roots to the twigs and leaves. Galls caused by woolly apple aphids. This causes twisted and curled leaves as well as chlorosis, or yellowing of the foliage, and may result in reduced plant vigor. Some species cause galls, which can provide entry points for fungal diseases. However, the primary negative effect of these woolly creatures is cosmetic, and their main hosts are ornamental, so infestations of white fluffy insects are not appealing. Like other sap-sucking pests, these insects exude sweet honeydew, which attracts ants, and an ugly black sooty mold can grow on stickied leaf surfaces. Identification Woolly aphids have three-millimeter-long, pear-shaped bodies that are covered in a white, waxy, fluffy coating. There are several common species to look out for on your plants. Often, the host gives the best clues to help identify what species is attacking, as the insects themselves can look quite similar. The woolly apple aphid, Eriosoma lanigerum, is a common and serious apple pest worldwide. As its name suggests, it loves apples of all types, including ornamental crabapples, but it will also feed on elm, alder, mountain ash, hawthorn, serviceberry, and pyracantha. These have bluish-black bodies under their white fluff, and they feed on the base of new shoots, branches, roots, and trunk wounds. Their feeding causes galls to form, and these cracked and swollen areas on branches – perfect entry points for diseases such as rots and canker – are the primary reason these insects are such serious pests, and why they are sometimes called American blight aphids. Eriosoma lanigerum. Woolly elm aphids, Eriosoma americanum, feed on American elm foliage in the spring, and the roots of serviceberry (also known as Saskatoon berry) as an alternate host in the summer. On elms, feeding causes the edges of new leaves to roll inwards and form a gall-like swelling where they hide out. On Saskatoon berry bushes, especially young plants, root feeding can result in stunting and reduced berry production, and the damage can be fatal. On the elm, the adult has a red-orange body with some white sticky bubbles, or it may be covered with a waxy cotton-like coating. On the serviceberry, where they are found underground, they are light blue to black, and may have some waxy fluff on their thoraxes. The woolly alder aphid, Prociphilus tessellatus, feeds on silver maple in the spring, and alder in the summer. This is the super fluffy species you may already be familiar with, and they look like pieces of cotton floating through the air when they’re flying, or fungi when they’re congregated on twigs. Even their eggs are woolly. Besides looking a little strange or even ugly on the plant, this species doesn’t cause significant damage. Large populations can cause shriveled leaves, and the honeydew they produce can make vehicles, sidewalks, and any lawn furniture positioned under the maple or alder trees sticky. But these issues aren’t usually serious enough to warrant control. Biology and Life Cycle Most of the woolly aphids have two primary hosts, which they alternate feeding and reproducing on. Often, they lay eggs on the primary host, the eggs overwinter in the cracks of bark, females hatch in the spring, and they begin to produce live offspring. They will spend a few generations feeding and reproducing, without males, on the primary host plant. A generation of winged females will fly to the secondary host soon after, and they will spend most of the rest of the season feeding and reproducing there. In the late summer or early fall, a second wave of winged females head back to the primary host, and produce a generation of males and females. These mate, and each female lays one egg that will overwinter and hatch in the spring, producing another all-female generation. Some species will hatch before winter, and spend the season as nymphs on the host plant’s roots. Females can produce hundreds of offspring during their one-month lifespan, and these offspring reach sexual maturity in four to ten days. One of my professors described this as giving birth to live, pregnant young. Thus, populations can explode very quickly. Monitoring Keeping a close eye out for these pests before their populations – and the damage they cause – gets out of control is essential for effective management. The downside is, once the damage is visible, management options are often limited or rendered ineffective. Check the undersides of leaves for woolly aphid populations. Look out for shiny, sticky honeydew and an accumulation of waxy shed skins on the upper side of leaves. They are easily mistaken for mealybugs and scale insects. But mealybugs often have tails, and both mealybugs and scales are flat while aphids are pear shaped. Often, the distinguishing feature of aphids is the two tailpipes (cornicles) on the end of their abdomens, but they are short and often covered by fluff on woolly species. Organic Control Methods Control is not often warranted, especially on mature, healthy trees and shrubs. However, infestations of certain species, especially Eriosoma lanigerum, can become serious enough to bust out the control options. If control is necessary, approach these pests with an integrated pest management (IPM) strategy, combining monitoring with cultural and biological methods for safe, effective control. Cultural and Physical Control Keep your plants healthy to achieve tolerance and minimize damage. Avoid planting one host – elm, for example – near or in the same vicinity as the other host – such as serviceberry. Try to avoid cultivation of one host in the same area where wild alternate hosts are growing as well. Physical control methods can be hard or impossible to use on tall trees, but on smaller trees and shrubs, you can use a strong stream of water from the hose or scrub infested areas with a stiff brush to dislodge colonies. Prune out and destroy heavily infested twigs and branches. These pests spread by crawling, flying, or being transported via plant material, clothing, gardening shoes, and tools, so examine new plants and clean your tools between working with infested and non-infested plants. Plant resistant varieties of common host species. For example, ‘Northern Spy’ apples are resistant to the woolly apple aphid. Biological Control Parasitic wasps are the primary enemies of these pests in general, and they can often provide adequate control of small populations. Aphelinus mali, for example, specifically targets the woolly apple aphid. Aphelinus mali hatch holes. Lacewings, ladybugs, hoverflies, and even earwigs will snack on them as well. Aphidoletes aphidimyza is a commercially available predator commonly referred to as the aphid midge that can be applied and works well in indoor settings such as greenhouses. The adults lay eggs near the aphids, and the resulting larvae prey on the pests. Aphidoletes aphidimyza Find these predators available at Arbico Organics. None of these beneficial insects will target the underground pests, however. That is a job for the nematode Steinernema carpocapsae, which will attack underground colonies. NemAttack Sc You can find these sold under the brand name NemAttack at Arbico Organics. Learn more about how to use beneficial nematodes in our guide. Organic Pesticides Using pesticides to control these insects can be difficult, thanks to their protective waxy coating. Good coverage and penetration of this fluffy coating is essential to achieve any effect with contact products, whether organic or chemical in nature. Most of the products that are effective against smooth aphid types can provide some control of the fluffy types as well, provided coverage is adequate. Monterey Horticultural Oil Horticultural oils, such as this one from Monterey that is available from Arbico Organics, and insecticidal soap products such as this one from Bonide, also available at Arbico Organics, are two viable options. Bonide Insecticidal Soap There are no organic or chemical controls available that are specific to the treatment of underground pests. Chemical Pesticides Chemical control is rarely justified with these pests. As with organic contact products, chemical contact pesticides such as pyrethroids are not very effective against them either. Systemic chemicals, those that are absorbed and translocated throughout the plant, are the most effective, as these are sucked up with the sap they feed on. However, chemical applications can actually serve to encourage insect outbreaks, as these can be toxic to beneficial insects as well. Reducing or wiping out predator populations gives the aphids a chance to reach infestation levels again. They are not choosy about pollinators either, so avoid using chemicals on plants that attract bees and other pollinators, and if you must use them as a last resort, wait until the plants have finished blooming. Beware the Plant-Eating Cotton Balls Though these insects can look like innocent bits of floating cotton, they can quickly settle into fluffy plant-sucking colonies. Not only can they cause leaf curl or stem galls, they also don’t exactly create what you’d call a desirable aesthetic on ornamental trees and shrubs. Luckily, the damage they cause is often minor, and nature provides some control to go along with your cultural and physical strategies.  Have you ever dealt with these downy insects before? Let us know down in the comments what plants they targeted, and how you controlled them! And for more information about other plant-sucking insect pests, have a read of these guides next: © Ask the Experts, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. See our TOS for more details. Originally published August 18th, 2021. Last updated April 2nd, 2025. Product photos via Arbico Organics. Uncredited photos: Shutterstock. !function(f,b,e,v,n,t,s) if(f.fbq)return;n=f.fbq=function()n.callMethod? n.callMethod.apply(n,arguments):n.queue.push(arguments); if(!f._fbq)f._fbq=n;n.push=n;n.loaded=!0;n.version='2.0'; n.queue=[];t=b.createElement(e);t.async=!0; t.src=v;s=b.getElementsByTagName(e)[0]; s.parentNode.insertBefore(t,s)(window, document,'script', ' fbq('init', '176410929431717'); fbq('track', 'PageView'); Source link

[drhoz]

Day trip out for a swim in the river and a look at the New Zealand Honey Dew which is a sweet sap like liquid / honey produced by insects which reside in the Beech Trees of New Zealand. This makes an excellent Emergency Energey Source of Survival Food. Two species of beech tree inhabited by two species of honeydew insect (the sooty beech scales) from the Margarodidae family produce New Zealand's largest single exported honey crop. The beech trees are Black Beech (Nothofagus solandri) and Red Beech (N. fusca). The two insects are Ultracoelostoma assimileand U. brittini. U. brittini tends to inhabit the trunks and larger branches, while U. assimile is recorded (C.F.Morales) as favouring the upper branches and twigs, thus U.brittini is the insect most likely to be encountered by the casual observer wandering in the beech forests. The black colour of trees and plants with a honeydew source is due to the growth of a blackTubules from U.brittini with drops fo honeydew sooty mould (Capnodium fungus) on the surplus nectar exuding over the plant and sometimes even the ground. Particles of this fungus are typically found in honeydew being referred to as "honeydew elements" and are used as a part of the identification as honeydew. Droplets of nectar are highly visible to any observer visiting the beech forest, but bees are rarely seen collecting these. Mostly they are observed foraging on the bark and particularly at the base of the tubules extending from the scale insect buried under the bark.

[iammeandmy]

Eriosomatinae Just in case there weren’t enough white waxy insects for you to tell apart already, such as scales and mealybugs, here is another fluffy type. Now introducing the shrub- and tree-loving woolly aphid, an insect that takes the waxy coating game to a whole new level. Aphids are notorious plant pests, and the fuzzy types can be just as hard to identify by species – and sometimes even harder to control – than their smooth, shiny relatives. We link to vendors to help you find relevant products. If you buy from one of our links, we may earn a commission. We’ve compiled everything you need to know about these sap-sucking pests, so you’ll know how to deal with them when they show up on your apples or landscape trees. Here’s what we’ll cover in this guide: What Are Woolly Aphids? Belonging to the Aphididae subfamily Eriosomatinae, these pests suck the sap from a variety of plants, especially trees and shrubs such as edible and ornamental apple, cotoneaster, maple, elm, alder, and beech. They feed on both underground and aboveground parts of these plants, from the roots to the twigs and leaves. Galls caused by woolly apple aphids. This causes twisted and curled leaves as well as chlorosis, or yellowing of the foliage, and may result in reduced plant vigor. Some species cause galls, which can provide entry points for fungal diseases. However, the primary negative effect of these woolly creatures is cosmetic, and their main hosts are ornamental, so infestations of white fluffy insects are not appealing. Like other sap-sucking pests, these insects exude sweet honeydew, which attracts ants, and an ugly black sooty mold can grow on stickied leaf surfaces. Identification Woolly aphids have three-millimeter-long, pear-shaped bodies that are covered in a white, waxy, fluffy coating. There are several common species to look out for on your plants. Often, the host gives the best clues to help identify what species is attacking, as the insects themselves can look quite similar. The woolly apple aphid, Eriosoma lanigerum, is a common and serious apple pest worldwide. As its name suggests, it loves apples of all types, including ornamental crabapples, but it will also feed on elm, alder, mountain ash, hawthorn, serviceberry, and pyracantha. These have bluish-black bodies under their white fluff, and they feed on the base of new shoots, branches, roots, and trunk wounds. Their feeding causes galls to form, and these cracked and swollen areas on branches – perfect entry points for diseases such as rots and canker – are the primary reason these insects are such serious pests, and why they are sometimes called American blight aphids. Eriosoma lanigerum. Woolly elm aphids, Eriosoma americanum, feed on American elm foliage in the spring, and the roots of serviceberry (also known as Saskatoon berry) as an alternate host in the summer. On elms, feeding causes the edges of new leaves to roll inwards and form a gall-like swelling where they hide out. On Saskatoon berry bushes, especially young plants, root feeding can result in stunting and reduced berry production, and the damage can be fatal. On the elm, the adult has a red-orange body with some white sticky bubbles, or it may be covered with a waxy cotton-like coating. On the serviceberry, where they are found underground, they are light blue to black, and may have some waxy fluff on their thoraxes. The woolly alder aphid, Prociphilus tessellatus, feeds on silver maple in the spring, and alder in the summer. This is the super fluffy species you may already be familiar with, and they look like pieces of cotton floating through the air when they’re flying, or fungi when they’re congregated on twigs. Even their eggs are woolly. Besides looking a little strange or even ugly on the plant, this species doesn’t cause significant damage. Large populations can cause shriveled leaves, and the honeydew they produce can make vehicles, sidewalks, and any lawn furniture positioned under the maple or alder trees sticky. But these issues aren’t usually serious enough to warrant control. Biology and Life Cycle Most of the woolly aphids have two primary hosts, which they alternate feeding and reproducing on. Often, they lay eggs on the primary host, the eggs overwinter in the cracks of bark, females hatch in the spring, and they begin to produce live offspring. They will spend a few generations feeding and reproducing, without males, on the primary host plant. A generation of winged females will fly to the secondary host soon after, and they will spend most of the rest of the season feeding and reproducing there. In the late summer or early fall, a second wave of winged females head back to the primary host, and produce a generation of males and females. These mate, and each female lays one egg that will overwinter and hatch in the spring, producing another all-female generation. Some species will hatch before winter, and spend the season as nymphs on the host plant’s roots. Females can produce hundreds of offspring during their one-month lifespan, and these offspring reach sexual maturity in four to ten days. One of my professors described this as giving birth to live, pregnant young. Thus, populations can explode very quickly. Monitoring Keeping a close eye out for these pests before their populations – and the damage they cause – gets out of control is essential for effective management. The downside is, once the damage is visible, management options are often limited or rendered ineffective. Check the undersides of leaves for woolly aphid populations. Look out for shiny, sticky honeydew and an accumulation of waxy shed skins on the upper side of leaves. They are easily mistaken for mealybugs and scale insects. But mealybugs often have tails, and both mealybugs and scales are flat while aphids are pear shaped. Often, the distinguishing feature of aphids is the two tailpipes (cornicles) on the end of their abdomens, but they are short and often covered by fluff on woolly species. Organic Control Methods Control is not often warranted, especially on mature, healthy trees and shrubs. However, infestations of certain species, especially Eriosoma lanigerum, can become serious enough to bust out the control options. If control is necessary, approach these pests with an integrated pest management (IPM) strategy, combining monitoring with cultural and biological methods for safe, effective control. Cultural and Physical Control Keep your plants healthy to achieve tolerance and minimize damage. Avoid planting one host – elm, for example – near or in the same vicinity as the other host – such as serviceberry. Try to avoid cultivation of one host in the same area where wild alternate hosts are growing as well. Physical control methods can be hard or impossible to use on tall trees, but on smaller trees and shrubs, you can use a strong stream of water from the hose or scrub infested areas with a stiff brush to dislodge colonies. Prune out and destroy heavily infested twigs and branches. These pests spread by crawling, flying, or being transported via plant material, clothing, gardening shoes, and tools, so examine new plants and clean your tools between working with infested and non-infested plants. Plant resistant varieties of common host species. For example, ‘Northern Spy’ apples are resistant to the woolly apple aphid. Biological Control Parasitic wasps are the primary enemies of these pests in general, and they can often provide adequate control of small populations. Aphelinus mali, for example, specifically targets the woolly apple aphid. Aphelinus mali hatch holes. Lacewings, ladybugs, hoverflies, and even earwigs will snack on them as well. Aphidoletes aphidimyza is a commercially available predator commonly referred to as the aphid midge that can be applied and works well in indoor settings such as greenhouses. The adults lay eggs near the aphids, and the resulting larvae prey on the pests. Aphidoletes aphidimyza Find these predators available at Arbico Organics. None of these beneficial insects will target the underground pests, however. That is a job for the nematode Steinernema carpocapsae, which will attack underground colonies. NemAttack Sc You can find these sold under the brand name NemAttack at Arbico Organics. Learn more about how to use beneficial nematodes in our guide. Organic Pesticides Using pesticides to control these insects can be difficult, thanks to their protective waxy coating. Good coverage and penetration of this fluffy coating is essential to achieve any effect with contact products, whether organic or chemical in nature. Most of the products that are effective against smooth aphid types can provide some control of the fluffy types as well, provided coverage is adequate. Monterey Horticultural Oil Horticultural oils, such as this one from Monterey that is available from Arbico Organics, and insecticidal soap products such as this one from Bonide, also available at Arbico Organics, are two viable options. Bonide Insecticidal Soap There are no organic or chemical controls available that are specific to the treatment of underground pests. Chemical Pesticides Chemical control is rarely justified with these pests. As with organic contact products, chemical contact pesticides such as pyrethroids are not very effective against them either. Systemic chemicals, those that are absorbed and translocated throughout the plant, are the most effective, as these are sucked up with the sap they feed on. However, chemical applications can actually serve to encourage insect outbreaks, as these can be toxic to beneficial insects as well. Reducing or wiping out predator populations gives the aphids a chance to reach infestation levels again. They are not choosy about pollinators either, so avoid using chemicals on plants that attract bees and other pollinators, and if you must use them as a last resort, wait until the plants have finished blooming. Beware the Plant-Eating Cotton Balls Though these insects can look like innocent bits of floating cotton, they can quickly settle into fluffy plant-sucking colonies. Not only can they cause leaf curl or stem galls, they also don’t exactly create what you’d call a desirable aesthetic on ornamental trees and shrubs. Luckily, the damage they cause is often minor, and nature provides some control to go along with your cultural and physical strategies.  Have you ever dealt with these downy insects before? Let us know down in the comments what plants they targeted, and how you controlled them! And for more information about other plant-sucking insect pests, have a read of these guides next: © Ask the Experts, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. See our TOS for more details. Originally published August 18th, 2021. Last updated April 2nd, 2025. Product photos via Arbico Organics. Uncredited photos: Shutterstock. !function(f,b,e,v,n,t,s) if(f.fbq)return;n=f.fbq=function()n.callMethod? n.callMethod.apply(n,arguments):n.queue.push(arguments); if(!f._fbq)f._fbq=n;n.push=n;n.loaded=!0;n.version='2.0'; n.queue=[];t=b.createElement(e);t.async=!0; t.src=v;s=b.getElementsByTagName(e)[0]; s.parentNode.insertBefore(t,s)(window, document,'script', ' fbq('init', '176410929431717'); fbq('track', 'PageView'); Source link

[januishstory]

Eriosomatinae Just in case there weren’t enough white waxy insects for you to tell apart already, such as scales and mealybugs, here is another fluffy type. Now introducing the shrub- and tree-loving woolly aphid, an insect that takes the waxy coating game to a whole new level. Aphids are notorious plant pests, and the fuzzy types can be just as hard to identify by species – and sometimes even harder to control – than their smooth, shiny relatives. We link to vendors to help you find relevant products. If you buy from one of our links, we may earn a commission. We’ve compiled everything you need to know about these sap-sucking pests, so you’ll know how to deal with them when they show up on your apples or landscape trees. Here’s what we’ll cover in this guide: What Are Woolly Aphids? Belonging to the Aphididae subfamily Eriosomatinae, these pests suck the sap from a variety of plants, especially trees and shrubs such as edible and ornamental apple, cotoneaster, maple, elm, alder, and beech. They feed on both underground and aboveground parts of these plants, from the roots to the twigs and leaves. Galls caused by woolly apple aphids. This causes twisted and curled leaves as well as chlorosis, or yellowing of the foliage, and may result in reduced plant vigor. Some species cause galls, which can provide entry points for fungal diseases. However, the primary negative effect of these woolly creatures is cosmetic, and their main hosts are ornamental, so infestations of white fluffy insects are not appealing. Like other sap-sucking pests, these insects exude sweet honeydew, which attracts ants, and an ugly black sooty mold can grow on stickied leaf surfaces. Identification Woolly aphids have three-millimeter-long, pear-shaped bodies that are covered in a white, waxy, fluffy coating. There are several common species to look out for on your plants. Often, the host gives the best clues to help identify what species is attacking, as the insects themselves can look quite similar. The woolly apple aphid, Eriosoma lanigerum, is a common and serious apple pest worldwide. As its name suggests, it loves apples of all types, including ornamental crabapples, but it will also feed on elm, alder, mountain ash, hawthorn, serviceberry, and pyracantha. These have bluish-black bodies under their white fluff, and they feed on the base of new shoots, branches, roots, and trunk wounds. Their feeding causes galls to form, and these cracked and swollen areas on branches – perfect entry points for diseases such as rots and canker – are the primary reason these insects are such serious pests, and why they are sometimes called American blight aphids. Eriosoma lanigerum. Woolly elm aphids, Eriosoma americanum, feed on American elm foliage in the spring, and the roots of serviceberry (also known as Saskatoon berry) as an alternate host in the summer. On elms, feeding causes the edges of new leaves to roll inwards and form a gall-like swelling where they hide out. On Saskatoon berry bushes, especially young plants, root feeding can result in stunting and reduced berry production, and the damage can be fatal. On the elm, the adult has a red-orange body with some white sticky bubbles, or it may be covered with a waxy cotton-like coating. On the serviceberry, where they are found underground, they are light blue to black, and may have some waxy fluff on their thoraxes. The woolly alder aphid, Prociphilus tessellatus, feeds on silver maple in the spring, and alder in the summer. This is the super fluffy species you may already be familiar with, and they look like pieces of cotton floating through the air when they’re flying, or fungi when they’re congregated on twigs. Even their eggs are woolly. Besides looking a little strange or even ugly on the plant, this species doesn’t cause significant damage. Large populations can cause shriveled leaves, and the honeydew they produce can make vehicles, sidewalks, and any lawn furniture positioned under the maple or alder trees sticky. But these issues aren’t usually serious enough to warrant control. Biology and Life Cycle Most of the woolly aphids have two primary hosts, which they alternate feeding and reproducing on. Often, they lay eggs on the primary host, the eggs overwinter in the cracks of bark, females hatch in the spring, and they begin to produce live offspring. They will spend a few generations feeding and reproducing, without males, on the primary host plant. A generation of winged females will fly to the secondary host soon after, and they will spend most of the rest of the season feeding and reproducing there. In the late summer or early fall, a second wave of winged females head back to the primary host, and produce a generation of males and females. These mate, and each female lays one egg that will overwinter and hatch in the spring, producing another all-female generation. Some species will hatch before winter, and spend the season as nymphs on the host plant’s roots. Females can produce hundreds of offspring during their one-month lifespan, and these offspring reach sexual maturity in four to ten days. One of my professors described this as giving birth to live, pregnant young. Thus, populations can explode very quickly. Monitoring Keeping a close eye out for these pests before their populations – and the damage they cause – gets out of control is essential for effective management. The downside is, once the damage is visible, management options are often limited or rendered ineffective. Check the undersides of leaves for woolly aphid populations. Look out for shiny, sticky honeydew and an accumulation of waxy shed skins on the upper side of leaves. They are easily mistaken for mealybugs and scale insects. But mealybugs often have tails, and both mealybugs and scales are flat while aphids are pear shaped. Often, the distinguishing feature of aphids is the two tailpipes (cornicles) on the end of their abdomens, but they are short and often covered by fluff on woolly species. Organic Control Methods Control is not often warranted, especially on mature, healthy trees and shrubs. However, infestations of certain species, especially Eriosoma lanigerum, can become serious enough to bust out the control options. If control is necessary, approach these pests with an integrated pest management (IPM) strategy, combining monitoring with cultural and biological methods for safe, effective control. Cultural and Physical Control Keep your plants healthy to achieve tolerance and minimize damage. Avoid planting one host – elm, for example – near or in the same vicinity as the other host – such as serviceberry. Try to avoid cultivation of one host in the same area where wild alternate hosts are growing as well. Physical control methods can be hard or impossible to use on tall trees, but on smaller trees and shrubs, you can use a strong stream of water from the hose or scrub infested areas with a stiff brush to dislodge colonies. Prune out and destroy heavily infested twigs and branches. These pests spread by crawling, flying, or being transported via plant material, clothing, gardening shoes, and tools, so examine new plants and clean your tools between working with infested and non-infested plants. Plant resistant varieties of common host species. For example, ‘Northern Spy’ apples are resistant to the woolly apple aphid. Biological Control Parasitic wasps are the primary enemies of these pests in general, and they can often provide adequate control of small populations. Aphelinus mali, for example, specifically targets the woolly apple aphid. Aphelinus mali hatch holes. Lacewings, ladybugs, hoverflies, and even earwigs will snack on them as well. Aphidoletes aphidimyza is a commercially available predator commonly referred to as the aphid midge that can be applied and works well in indoor settings such as greenhouses. The adults lay eggs near the aphids, and the resulting larvae prey on the pests. Aphidoletes aphidimyza Find these predators available at Arbico Organics. None of these beneficial insects will target the underground pests, however. That is a job for the nematode Steinernema carpocapsae, which will attack underground colonies. NemAttack Sc You can find these sold under the brand name NemAttack at Arbico Organics. Learn more about how to use beneficial nematodes in our guide. Organic Pesticides Using pesticides to control these insects can be difficult, thanks to their protective waxy coating. Good coverage and penetration of this fluffy coating is essential to achieve any effect with contact products, whether organic or chemical in nature. Most of the products that are effective against smooth aphid types can provide some control of the fluffy types as well, provided coverage is adequate. Monterey Horticultural Oil Horticultural oils, such as this one from Monterey that is available from Arbico Organics, and insecticidal soap products such as this one from Bonide, also available at Arbico Organics, are two viable options. Bonide Insecticidal Soap There are no organic or chemical controls available that are specific to the treatment of underground pests. Chemical Pesticides Chemical control is rarely justified with these pests. As with organic contact products, chemical contact pesticides such as pyrethroids are not very effective against them either. Systemic chemicals, those that are absorbed and translocated throughout the plant, are the most effective, as these are sucked up with the sap they feed on. However, chemical applications can actually serve to encourage insect outbreaks, as these can be toxic to beneficial insects as well. Reducing or wiping out predator populations gives the aphids a chance to reach infestation levels again. They are not choosy about pollinators either, so avoid using chemicals on plants that attract bees and other pollinators, and if you must use them as a last resort, wait until the plants have finished blooming. Beware the Plant-Eating Cotton Balls Though these insects can look like innocent bits of floating cotton, they can quickly settle into fluffy plant-sucking colonies. Not only can they cause leaf curl or stem galls, they also don’t exactly create what you’d call a desirable aesthetic on ornamental trees and shrubs. Luckily, the damage they cause is often minor, and nature provides some control to go along with your cultural and physical strategies.  Have you ever dealt with these downy insects before? Let us know down in the comments what plants they targeted, and how you controlled them! And for more information about other plant-sucking insect pests, have a read of these guides next: © Ask the Experts, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. See our TOS for more details. Originally published August 18th, 2021. Last updated April 2nd, 2025. Product photos via Arbico Organics. Uncredited photos: Shutterstock. !function(f,b,e,v,n,t,s) if(f.fbq)return;n=f.fbq=function()n.callMethod? n.callMethod.apply(n,arguments):n.queue.push(arguments); if(!f._fbq)f._fbq=n;n.push=n;n.loaded=!0;n.version='2.0'; n.queue=[];t=b.createElement(e);t.async=!0; t.src=v;s=b.getElementsByTagName(e)[0]; s.parentNode.insertBefore(t,s)(window, document,'script', ' fbq('init', '176410929431717'); fbq('track', 'PageView'); Source link

[carnegiemuseumnaturalhistory]

Boogie Woogie Aphids

by John Wenzel

Aphids are usually small wingless insects that suck sap from plants, usually specializing on one kind of plant. Many species can reproduce rapidly by parthenogenesis, where females give live birth to daughters without mating. They can build up great numbers quickly, which is why aphids are often pests of crop plants. In late summer or early autumn, populations are about as large as they are going to get, and soon a generation of both male and females that has wings is produced. These will disperse and mate before winter comes. The winged females will lay eggs that last over winter to start the cycle again in the spring. In our area, one amusing species is the beech blight aphid (Grylloprociphilus imbricator) that feeds on beech trees. The aphid produces from its abdomen profuse wax fibers that give it a woolly appearance. In the photo shown here, the aphid itself is just a small brown dot at one end of the white fluffy wax mass. The wax is essentially a shield, and a predator that bites into the woolly floss will come away with nothing but wax. These aphids have a defensive behavior of waving their abdomens and the wax shield when they are disturbed, as you can see in this video of dancing aphids. 

Because sap has far more sugar than nutrients, aphids need to get rid of the sugar by excreting it in the form of honeydew. Under a mass of aphids like that shown here, the honeydew will accumulate on the branches or the ground below the aphid colony and will attract flies, bees, wasps, and other insects seeking the sweet liquid. There is a black sooty mold (Scorius spongiosa) that grows only on the honeydew of beech aphids, and can build up a large mass. Neither the aphids nor the mold are detrimental to beech trees, so there is no need to try to exterminate either of them. If they are considered a nuisance by a homeowner, it is easy to wash the aphids off the branches with a hose.

John Wenzel is the Director at Powdermill Nature Reserve, Carnegie Museum of Natural History’s environmental research center. Museum employees are encouraged to blog about their unique experiences and knowledge gained from working at the museum.

[pauladevin302]

How Do You Get Rid Of Wooly Aphids?

How Do You Get Rid Of Wooly Aphids?

video description: 24 oct 2011 readers ask how best to get rid of woolly aphids and how to prepare plants for the winter 20 nov 2015 my old cooking apple trees have an infestation of woolly aphids for the first time. The insecticides she recommends woolly aphids also secrete honeydew, which is difficult to remove. Htm url? Q webcache. How to get rid of mealy bugs (aka woolly aphids) on your plants how wooly aphids absolute pest control. How do i get rid of woolly aphids? Telegraph. Googleusercontent search. Here are twelve natural and organic ways to get rid of them enable your garden once mealy bugs or woolly aphids invade a plant garden, it's important start treating the affected plants as soon possibl 6 oct 2015 wooly mostly harmless. Hackberry woolly aphid management guidelines uc ipm. You can also prune out and destroy infested branches when feasible. However, they could cause a significant amount of damage to your yard and plants. You may need to get rid woolly aphids (subfamily eriosomatinae) are sucking insects that live on plant fluids and further minor damage can be caused by the honeydew secrete, which is difficult remove. Woolly aphid aftermath on apple tree grow your own magazine. Woolly aphid control how to get rid of woolly aphids. Identification and 19 aug 2014 aphids are some of the most destructive garden pests. When chemical control is deemed necessary, woolly aphid insecticide such as acephate (orthene) can be used to these pests 11 aug 2013. Woolly aphids description and control down garden services. Are they likely to be killed off during the winter? If not, how do i 28 oct 2014 woolly aphid is common on edible and ornamental apple trees, pyracantha cotoneaster horizontalis. How to get rid of aphids 12 organic methods that work. How to get rid of woolly aphids youtube. The techniques used to get rid of the mealy bugs range from various poisons several eco friendly home remedies in residential landscapes woolly aphids are common on elm, silver maple, ash, treatments can kill but distorted leaves will remain apple aphid is a sucking insect pest that weakens tree by feeding be damaged, and severe root infestations stunt or young trees 16 jan 2013 margaret sirl demonstrates how treat very serious problem caused wooly. Woolly aphids (subfamily eriosomatinae) are sucking insects that live on plant fluids and further minor damage can be caused by the honeydew woolly secrete, which is difficult to remove. Rid of woolly aphids. The insects are hidden under white this article is specific to woolly aphids which attack apple trees however the very same pests also pyracantha, beech and cotneaster. While the honeydew itself doesn't cause once mealy bugs or woolly aphids invade a plant garden, it's important to start treating affected plants and get rid of as soon possible. While the honeydew itself is not a problem, it forms substrate on which sooty mold can grow, woolly aphids could be to blame find out how deal with them, help this won't cure problem long

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