#beech aphids

[hepdenerose]

Pulsating June

Phil’s work schedule and an upcoming Blackpool trip meant a cloudy mid-June Wednesday was our only chance to see Nutclough’s wild irises. Close to midsummer, life pulsated from the off. Bees swarmed in hedgerows blossoming with brambles on Hangingroyd Road. Fading dogroses exuded heady scents at the top of the close. Translucent linden leaves overhung The Buttress. We waited for a woman wheeling…

[ceenvs3000w25]

Unit 9 Blog Post - Interpreting my Favorite Insect Identifications!

When I read this blog prompt, I instantly knew I wanted to use this post to share some of my favourite observations on iNaturalist and use that as my way of bringing the field to you! Most of the most amazing things I know about nature about bugs, so I will interpret this to you all through photos! I also think this fits well with our unit content, as this week’s textbook reading discussed iNaturalist and other, similar, citizen science initiatives (Beck et al., 2018). I am quite active on iNaturalist because I feel like I have an insatiable thirst for knowledge, so when I see an animal that I can’t identify off the top of my head, I NEED to know what it is- and iNaturalist is perfect for that!

The first insect that I want to share with you are Woolly aphids, specifically beech blight aphids (Grylloprociphilus imbricator), which are shown in the video above! Last semester while doing field work in an arboretum pond for my limnology class, I saw a branch on a tree that seemed to be moving and fuzzy… upon closer inspection I realized that my eyes weren’t playing tricks on me… the branch really WAS moving AND fuzzy. This was my first time seeing a woolly aphid, so I honestly was having a difficult time comprehending exactly what I was looking at, nevertheless I immediately started taking a video and trying to identify the thing I was seeing. Through zooming in I could see a little amber ball on each of these moving things, instantly I knew this was some type of aphid, or at least a hemipteran. Hemipterans are ‘true bugs’, an order of insects with piercing-sucking mouthparts and two pairs of wings. The little amber ball that you see on the back of each aphid is called “honeydew”- this is a sugar-rich secretion that is produced by phloem-feeding hemipterans, such as aphids. Honeydew is a resource that is often preyed upon by other insects, especially ants. Ants use aphids as a form of livestock, carrying aphids to different plants through their lifecycle and defending them in order to use the honeydew (McVean, 2017)!

The next insect that I am going to share with you is a green-striped grasshopper! This is a photo that I took last summer in preservation park while trail running- I nearly tripped while trying to stop and take a photo of this guy when I spotted it! I run a lot on trails in the summer so that’s when I find I get the most identification done. I definitely slow myself down doing this… and miss a lot of bugs because I’m running… but it combines two things I love into one, so I don’t mind! Now, I’m sure grasshoppers are not a new thing to anybody reading this, but seeing this photo of a grasshopper made me think of a cool fact that I wanted to share!

Pink grasshopper pic is from Michelle W., @pufferchung on iNaturalist

No, this photo of a pink grasshopper is NOT photoshop, pink grasshopper morphs are real and do exist in nature! The pink colour is caused by a rare genetic mutation known as erythrism- this is a recessive gene like the one that causes some animals to be albino (Griffiths, 2023). Naturally, this makes it very difficult for the individual to properly camouflage, therefore it is generally selected against making these very rare to find.

The third insect that I am going to talk about is another hemipteran that had a very big year last year… The cicada! The cicada that is pictured above is a dog day cicada, they emerge in August, the ‘dogdays’ of summer. However, last year there was a huge cicada event that happened south of the border, featuring a different type of cicada, which I’m sure many of you have already heard of. There was a double periodical cicada emergence of brood XIII and XIX throughout some parts of the USA (Sherriff, 2024). But what does this mean? Periodical cicadas are any of the seven species from the genus Magicicada, these cicadas breed on either a 13- or 17- year cycle, where they breed, die, and their larvae go dormant underground for years before emerging and beginning the cycle again. In 2024, both the 13- and 17- year broods emerged at the same time, causing a massive and rare explosion of cicadas (Sherriff, 2024). This was a dream for insect lovers, and a nightmare for insect haters. I wished I could have been able to make it to the states to see/hear it myself, however this dog day cicada was the only one I got to see.

Beck, L., Cable, T. T., & Knudson, D. M. (2018). Interpreting cultural and natural heritage for a better world. Sagamore Publishing

Griffiths, E. (2023, July 3). Rare pink grasshopper spotted in garden. BBC Wales News. https://www.bbc.com/news/articles/czknv1233dko

McVean, A. (2017, August 16). Farmer ants and their aphid herds. McGill Office for Science and Society. https://www.mcgill.ca/oss/article/did-you-know/farmer-ants-and-their-aphid-herds#:~:text=Several%20species%20of%20ants%20have,ants%20as%20a%20food%20source.

Sherriff, L. (2024, May 6). Cicada dual emergence brings chaos to the food chain. BBC. https://www.bbc.com/future/article/20240501-cicada-dual-emergence-brings-chaos-to-the-food-chain

[girinma]

went out for Mawile raid day and also saw this fantastic pocket monster… the beech blight aphid

[aisling-saoirse]

Fagus Grandifolia - American Beech

The American beech is an incredibly distinct and beautiful tree. Found in Forests East-of-the-Mississippi from the southern-most regions of Canada to Louisiana (with an alleged subspecies found in Mexico). The American Beech serves an interesting habitat niche typically growing in complete shade, outdated terminology in ecological sciences refered to beech (and maple) as a climax forest species, meaning they are able to outcompete any other sapling in full shade of mature woodlands. Any decent scientist interested in ecology will reject the concept of climax species as nature does not reach a state of stability/equilibrium.

The bark itself is very thin and tight with few fissures, and extremely smooth in appearance. The tree is popular amoung disrespectful hikers as a point to carve names into the bark (which, yes, damages the tree), one can often find initials ripped into the trunk. Beech are extremely sensitive to draught, it is a moisture loving species with very shallow roots, images above are taken in a draught year. The trees hold their leaves in wintertime, its not uncommon to see ghostly orange and white leaves rusting in the winter winds. The trees also produce a large husk (forming on the last image) which contains 4 pod shaped nuts, these are edible and allegedly sweet (I've never eaten them as I always find them too late).

The horrible condition of the leaves I'm showing are indicators of disease, like other notable American trees, introduced species/diseases from abroad are quickly wiping them out (scaly bark fungus, beech leaf wilt, aphids). The added stress of the draught is making them less resistant to fighting these issues. I made this post today because I noticed about all of the Beech I encountered in New Jersey and Pennsylvania were in extremely poor or dying states. This is after years of watching them fight disease, the second year of climate change induced draughts appear to have done them in. Sad to see them go if such is their fate.

[tameblog]

Eriosomatinae Just in case there weren’t enough white waxy insects for you to tell apart already, such as scales and mealybugs, here is another fluffy type. Now introducing the shrub- and tree-loving woolly aphid, an insect that takes the waxy coating game to a whole new level. Aphids are notorious plant pests, and the fuzzy types can be just as hard to identify by species – and sometimes even harder to control – than their smooth, shiny relatives. We link to vendors to help you find relevant products. If you buy from one of our links, we may earn a commission. We’ve compiled everything you need to know about these sap-sucking pests, so you’ll know how to deal with them when they show up on your apples or landscape trees. Here’s what we’ll cover in this guide: What Are Woolly Aphids? Belonging to the Aphididae subfamily Eriosomatinae, these pests suck the sap from a variety of plants, especially trees and shrubs such as edible and ornamental apple, cotoneaster, maple, elm, alder, and beech. They feed on both underground and aboveground parts of these plants, from the roots to the twigs and leaves. Galls caused by woolly apple aphids. This causes twisted and curled leaves as well as chlorosis, or yellowing of the foliage, and may result in reduced plant vigor. Some species cause galls, which can provide entry points for fungal diseases. However, the primary negative effect of these woolly creatures is cosmetic, and their main hosts are ornamental, so infestations of white fluffy insects are not appealing. Like other sap-sucking pests, these insects exude sweet honeydew, which attracts ants, and an ugly black sooty mold can grow on stickied leaf surfaces. Identification Woolly aphids have three-millimeter-long, pear-shaped bodies that are covered in a white, waxy, fluffy coating. There are several common species to look out for on your plants. Often, the host gives the best clues to help identify what species is attacking, as the insects themselves can look quite similar. The woolly apple aphid, Eriosoma lanigerum, is a common and serious apple pest worldwide. As its name suggests, it loves apples of all types, including ornamental crabapples, but it will also feed on elm, alder, mountain ash, hawthorn, serviceberry, and pyracantha. These have bluish-black bodies under their white fluff, and they feed on the base of new shoots, branches, roots, and trunk wounds. Their feeding causes galls to form, and these cracked and swollen areas on branches – perfect entry points for diseases such as rots and canker – are the primary reason these insects are such serious pests, and why they are sometimes called American blight aphids. Eriosoma lanigerum. Woolly elm aphids, Eriosoma americanum, feed on American elm foliage in the spring, and the roots of serviceberry (also known as Saskatoon berry) as an alternate host in the summer. On elms, feeding causes the edges of new leaves to roll inwards and form a gall-like swelling where they hide out. On Saskatoon berry bushes, especially young plants, root feeding can result in stunting and reduced berry production, and the damage can be fatal. On the elm, the adult has a red-orange body with some white sticky bubbles, or it may be covered with a waxy cotton-like coating. On the serviceberry, where they are found underground, they are light blue to black, and may have some waxy fluff on their thoraxes. The woolly alder aphid, Prociphilus tessellatus, feeds on silver maple in the spring, and alder in the summer. This is the super fluffy species you may already be familiar with, and they look like pieces of cotton floating through the air when they’re flying, or fungi when they’re congregated on twigs. Even their eggs are woolly. Besides looking a little strange or even ugly on the plant, this species doesn’t cause significant damage. Large populations can cause shriveled leaves, and the honeydew they produce can make vehicles, sidewalks, and any lawn furniture positioned under the maple or alder trees sticky. But these issues aren’t usually serious enough to warrant control. Biology and Life Cycle Most of the woolly aphids have two primary hosts, which they alternate feeding and reproducing on. Often, they lay eggs on the primary host, the eggs overwinter in the cracks of bark, females hatch in the spring, and they begin to produce live offspring. They will spend a few generations feeding and reproducing, without males, on the primary host plant. A generation of winged females will fly to the secondary host soon after, and they will spend most of the rest of the season feeding and reproducing there. In the late summer or early fall, a second wave of winged females head back to the primary host, and produce a generation of males and females. These mate, and each female lays one egg that will overwinter and hatch in the spring, producing another all-female generation. Some species will hatch before winter, and spend the season as nymphs on the host plant’s roots. Females can produce hundreds of offspring during their one-month lifespan, and these offspring reach sexual maturity in four to ten days. One of my professors described this as giving birth to live, pregnant young. Thus, populations can explode very quickly. Monitoring Keeping a close eye out for these pests before their populations – and the damage they cause – gets out of control is essential for effective management. The downside is, once the damage is visible, management options are often limited or rendered ineffective. Check the undersides of leaves for woolly aphid populations. Look out for shiny, sticky honeydew and an accumulation of waxy shed skins on the upper side of leaves. They are easily mistaken for mealybugs and scale insects. But mealybugs often have tails, and both mealybugs and scales are flat while aphids are pear shaped. Often, the distinguishing feature of aphids is the two tailpipes (cornicles) on the end of their abdomens, but they are short and often covered by fluff on woolly species. Organic Control Methods Control is not often warranted, especially on mature, healthy trees and shrubs. However, infestations of certain species, especially Eriosoma lanigerum, can become serious enough to bust out the control options. If control is necessary, approach these pests with an integrated pest management (IPM) strategy, combining monitoring with cultural and biological methods for safe, effective control. Cultural and Physical Control Keep your plants healthy to achieve tolerance and minimize damage. Avoid planting one host – elm, for example – near or in the same vicinity as the other host – such as serviceberry. Try to avoid cultivation of one host in the same area where wild alternate hosts are growing as well. Physical control methods can be hard or impossible to use on tall trees, but on smaller trees and shrubs, you can use a strong stream of water from the hose or scrub infested areas with a stiff brush to dislodge colonies. Prune out and destroy heavily infested twigs and branches. These pests spread by crawling, flying, or being transported via plant material, clothing, gardening shoes, and tools, so examine new plants and clean your tools between working with infested and non-infested plants. Plant resistant varieties of common host species. For example, ‘Northern Spy’ apples are resistant to the woolly apple aphid. Biological Control Parasitic wasps are the primary enemies of these pests in general, and they can often provide adequate control of small populations. Aphelinus mali, for example, specifically targets the woolly apple aphid. Aphelinus mali hatch holes. Lacewings, ladybugs, hoverflies, and even earwigs will snack on them as well. Aphidoletes aphidimyza is a commercially available predator commonly referred to as the aphid midge that can be applied and works well in indoor settings such as greenhouses. The adults lay eggs near the aphids, and the resulting larvae prey on the pests. Aphidoletes aphidimyza Find these predators available at Arbico Organics. None of these beneficial insects will target the underground pests, however. That is a job for the nematode Steinernema carpocapsae, which will attack underground colonies. NemAttack Sc You can find these sold under the brand name NemAttack at Arbico Organics. Learn more about how to use beneficial nematodes in our guide. Organic Pesticides Using pesticides to control these insects can be difficult, thanks to their protective waxy coating. Good coverage and penetration of this fluffy coating is essential to achieve any effect with contact products, whether organic or chemical in nature. Most of the products that are effective against smooth aphid types can provide some control of the fluffy types as well, provided coverage is adequate. Monterey Horticultural Oil Horticultural oils, such as this one from Monterey that is available from Arbico Organics, and insecticidal soap products such as this one from Bonide, also available at Arbico Organics, are two viable options. Bonide Insecticidal Soap There are no organic or chemical controls available that are specific to the treatment of underground pests. Chemical Pesticides Chemical control is rarely justified with these pests. As with organic contact products, chemical contact pesticides such as pyrethroids are not very effective against them either. Systemic chemicals, those that are absorbed and translocated throughout the plant, are the most effective, as these are sucked up with the sap they feed on. However, chemical applications can actually serve to encourage insect outbreaks, as these can be toxic to beneficial insects as well. Reducing or wiping out predator populations gives the aphids a chance to reach infestation levels again. They are not choosy about pollinators either, so avoid using chemicals on plants that attract bees and other pollinators, and if you must use them as a last resort, wait until the plants have finished blooming. Beware the Plant-Eating Cotton Balls Though these insects can look like innocent bits of floating cotton, they can quickly settle into fluffy plant-sucking colonies. Not only can they cause leaf curl or stem galls, they also don’t exactly create what you’d call a desirable aesthetic on ornamental trees and shrubs. Luckily, the damage they cause is often minor, and nature provides some control to go along with your cultural and physical strategies.  Have you ever dealt with these downy insects before? Let us know down in the comments what plants they targeted, and how you controlled them! And for more information about other plant-sucking insect pests, have a read of these guides next: © Ask the Experts, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. See our TOS for more details. Originally published August 18th, 2021. Last updated April 2nd, 2025. Product photos via Arbico Organics. Uncredited photos: Shutterstock. !function(f,b,e,v,n,t,s) if(f.fbq)return;n=f.fbq=function()n.callMethod? n.callMethod.apply(n,arguments):n.queue.push(arguments); if(!f._fbq)f._fbq=n;n.push=n;n.loaded=!0;n.version='2.0'; n.queue=[];t=b.createElement(e);t.async=!0; t.src=v;s=b.getElementsByTagName(e)[0]; s.parentNode.insertBefore(t,s)(window, document,'script', ' fbq('init', '176410929431717'); fbq('track', 'PageView'); Source link

[ramestoryworld]

Eriosomatinae Just in case there weren’t enough white waxy insects for you to tell apart already, such as scales and mealybugs, here is another fluffy type. Now introducing the shrub- and tree-loving woolly aphid, an insect that takes the waxy coating game to a whole new level. Aphids are notorious plant pests, and the fuzzy types can be just as hard to identify by species – and sometimes even harder to control – than their smooth, shiny relatives. We link to vendors to help you find relevant products. If you buy from one of our links, we may earn a commission. We’ve compiled everything you need to know about these sap-sucking pests, so you’ll know how to deal with them when they show up on your apples or landscape trees. Here’s what we’ll cover in this guide: What Are Woolly Aphids? Belonging to the Aphididae subfamily Eriosomatinae, these pests suck the sap from a variety of plants, especially trees and shrubs such as edible and ornamental apple, cotoneaster, maple, elm, alder, and beech. They feed on both underground and aboveground parts of these plants, from the roots to the twigs and leaves. Galls caused by woolly apple aphids. This causes twisted and curled leaves as well as chlorosis, or yellowing of the foliage, and may result in reduced plant vigor. Some species cause galls, which can provide entry points for fungal diseases. However, the primary negative effect of these woolly creatures is cosmetic, and their main hosts are ornamental, so infestations of white fluffy insects are not appealing. Like other sap-sucking pests, these insects exude sweet honeydew, which attracts ants, and an ugly black sooty mold can grow on stickied leaf surfaces. Identification Woolly aphids have three-millimeter-long, pear-shaped bodies that are covered in a white, waxy, fluffy coating. There are several common species to look out for on your plants. Often, the host gives the best clues to help identify what species is attacking, as the insects themselves can look quite similar. The woolly apple aphid, Eriosoma lanigerum, is a common and serious apple pest worldwide. As its name suggests, it loves apples of all types, including ornamental crabapples, but it will also feed on elm, alder, mountain ash, hawthorn, serviceberry, and pyracantha. These have bluish-black bodies under their white fluff, and they feed on the base of new shoots, branches, roots, and trunk wounds. Their feeding causes galls to form, and these cracked and swollen areas on branches – perfect entry points for diseases such as rots and canker – are the primary reason these insects are such serious pests, and why they are sometimes called American blight aphids. Eriosoma lanigerum. Woolly elm aphids, Eriosoma americanum, feed on American elm foliage in the spring, and the roots of serviceberry (also known as Saskatoon berry) as an alternate host in the summer. On elms, feeding causes the edges of new leaves to roll inwards and form a gall-like swelling where they hide out. On Saskatoon berry bushes, especially young plants, root feeding can result in stunting and reduced berry production, and the damage can be fatal. On the elm, the adult has a red-orange body with some white sticky bubbles, or it may be covered with a waxy cotton-like coating. On the serviceberry, where they are found underground, they are light blue to black, and may have some waxy fluff on their thoraxes. The woolly alder aphid, Prociphilus tessellatus, feeds on silver maple in the spring, and alder in the summer. This is the super fluffy species you may already be familiar with, and they look like pieces of cotton floating through the air when they’re flying, or fungi when they’re congregated on twigs. Even their eggs are woolly. Besides looking a little strange or even ugly on the plant, this species doesn’t cause significant damage. Large populations can cause shriveled leaves, and the honeydew they produce can make vehicles, sidewalks, and any lawn furniture positioned under the maple or alder trees sticky. But these issues aren’t usually serious enough to warrant control. Biology and Life Cycle Most of the woolly aphids have two primary hosts, which they alternate feeding and reproducing on. Often, they lay eggs on the primary host, the eggs overwinter in the cracks of bark, females hatch in the spring, and they begin to produce live offspring. They will spend a few generations feeding and reproducing, without males, on the primary host plant. A generation of winged females will fly to the secondary host soon after, and they will spend most of the rest of the season feeding and reproducing there. In the late summer or early fall, a second wave of winged females head back to the primary host, and produce a generation of males and females. These mate, and each female lays one egg that will overwinter and hatch in the spring, producing another all-female generation. Some species will hatch before winter, and spend the season as nymphs on the host plant’s roots. Females can produce hundreds of offspring during their one-month lifespan, and these offspring reach sexual maturity in four to ten days. One of my professors described this as giving birth to live, pregnant young. Thus, populations can explode very quickly. Monitoring Keeping a close eye out for these pests before their populations – and the damage they cause – gets out of control is essential for effective management. The downside is, once the damage is visible, management options are often limited or rendered ineffective. Check the undersides of leaves for woolly aphid populations. Look out for shiny, sticky honeydew and an accumulation of waxy shed skins on the upper side of leaves. They are easily mistaken for mealybugs and scale insects. But mealybugs often have tails, and both mealybugs and scales are flat while aphids are pear shaped. Often, the distinguishing feature of aphids is the two tailpipes (cornicles) on the end of their abdomens, but they are short and often covered by fluff on woolly species. Organic Control Methods Control is not often warranted, especially on mature, healthy trees and shrubs. However, infestations of certain species, especially Eriosoma lanigerum, can become serious enough to bust out the control options. If control is necessary, approach these pests with an integrated pest management (IPM) strategy, combining monitoring with cultural and biological methods for safe, effective control. Cultural and Physical Control Keep your plants healthy to achieve tolerance and minimize damage. Avoid planting one host – elm, for example – near or in the same vicinity as the other host – such as serviceberry. Try to avoid cultivation of one host in the same area where wild alternate hosts are growing as well. Physical control methods can be hard or impossible to use on tall trees, but on smaller trees and shrubs, you can use a strong stream of water from the hose or scrub infested areas with a stiff brush to dislodge colonies. Prune out and destroy heavily infested twigs and branches. These pests spread by crawling, flying, or being transported via plant material, clothing, gardening shoes, and tools, so examine new plants and clean your tools between working with infested and non-infested plants. Plant resistant varieties of common host species. For example, ‘Northern Spy’ apples are resistant to the woolly apple aphid. Biological Control Parasitic wasps are the primary enemies of these pests in general, and they can often provide adequate control of small populations. Aphelinus mali, for example, specifically targets the woolly apple aphid. Aphelinus mali hatch holes. Lacewings, ladybugs, hoverflies, and even earwigs will snack on them as well. Aphidoletes aphidimyza is a commercially available predator commonly referred to as the aphid midge that can be applied and works well in indoor settings such as greenhouses. The adults lay eggs near the aphids, and the resulting larvae prey on the pests. Aphidoletes aphidimyza Find these predators available at Arbico Organics. None of these beneficial insects will target the underground pests, however. That is a job for the nematode Steinernema carpocapsae, which will attack underground colonies. NemAttack Sc You can find these sold under the brand name NemAttack at Arbico Organics. Learn more about how to use beneficial nematodes in our guide. Organic Pesticides Using pesticides to control these insects can be difficult, thanks to their protective waxy coating. Good coverage and penetration of this fluffy coating is essential to achieve any effect with contact products, whether organic or chemical in nature. Most of the products that are effective against smooth aphid types can provide some control of the fluffy types as well, provided coverage is adequate. Monterey Horticultural Oil Horticultural oils, such as this one from Monterey that is available from Arbico Organics, and insecticidal soap products such as this one from Bonide, also available at Arbico Organics, are two viable options. Bonide Insecticidal Soap There are no organic or chemical controls available that are specific to the treatment of underground pests. Chemical Pesticides Chemical control is rarely justified with these pests. As with organic contact products, chemical contact pesticides such as pyrethroids are not very effective against them either. Systemic chemicals, those that are absorbed and translocated throughout the plant, are the most effective, as these are sucked up with the sap they feed on. However, chemical applications can actually serve to encourage insect outbreaks, as these can be toxic to beneficial insects as well. Reducing or wiping out predator populations gives the aphids a chance to reach infestation levels again. They are not choosy about pollinators either, so avoid using chemicals on plants that attract bees and other pollinators, and if you must use them as a last resort, wait until the plants have finished blooming. Beware the Plant-Eating Cotton Balls Though these insects can look like innocent bits of floating cotton, they can quickly settle into fluffy plant-sucking colonies. Not only can they cause leaf curl or stem galls, they also don’t exactly create what you’d call a desirable aesthetic on ornamental trees and shrubs. Luckily, the damage they cause is often minor, and nature provides some control to go along with your cultural and physical strategies.  Have you ever dealt with these downy insects before? Let us know down in the comments what plants they targeted, and how you controlled them! And for more information about other plant-sucking insect pests, have a read of these guides next: © Ask the Experts, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. See our TOS for more details. Originally published August 18th, 2021. Last updated April 2nd, 2025. Product photos via Arbico Organics. Uncredited photos: Shutterstock. !function(f,b,e,v,n,t,s) if(f.fbq)return;n=f.fbq=function()n.callMethod? n.callMethod.apply(n,arguments):n.queue.push(arguments); if(!f._fbq)f._fbq=n;n.push=n;n.loaded=!0;n.version='2.0'; n.queue=[];t=b.createElement(e);t.async=!0; t.src=v;s=b.getElementsByTagName(e)[0]; s.parentNode.insertBefore(t,s)(window, document,'script', ' fbq('init', '176410929431717'); fbq('track', 'PageView'); Source link

[alexha2210]

Eriosomatinae Just in case there weren’t enough white waxy insects for you to tell apart already, such as scales and mealybugs, here is another fluffy type. Now introducing the shrub- and tree-loving woolly aphid, an insect that takes the waxy coating game to a whole new level. Aphids are notorious plant pests, and the fuzzy types can be just as hard to identify by species – and sometimes even harder to control – than their smooth, shiny relatives. We link to vendors to help you find relevant products. If you buy from one of our links, we may earn a commission. We’ve compiled everything you need to know about these sap-sucking pests, so you’ll know how to deal with them when they show up on your apples or landscape trees. Here’s what we’ll cover in this guide: What Are Woolly Aphids? Belonging to the Aphididae subfamily Eriosomatinae, these pests suck the sap from a variety of plants, especially trees and shrubs such as edible and ornamental apple, cotoneaster, maple, elm, alder, and beech. They feed on both underground and aboveground parts of these plants, from the roots to the twigs and leaves. Galls caused by woolly apple aphids. This causes twisted and curled leaves as well as chlorosis, or yellowing of the foliage, and may result in reduced plant vigor. Some species cause galls, which can provide entry points for fungal diseases. However, the primary negative effect of these woolly creatures is cosmetic, and their main hosts are ornamental, so infestations of white fluffy insects are not appealing. Like other sap-sucking pests, these insects exude sweet honeydew, which attracts ants, and an ugly black sooty mold can grow on stickied leaf surfaces. Identification Woolly aphids have three-millimeter-long, pear-shaped bodies that are covered in a white, waxy, fluffy coating. There are several common species to look out for on your plants. Often, the host gives the best clues to help identify what species is attacking, as the insects themselves can look quite similar. The woolly apple aphid, Eriosoma lanigerum, is a common and serious apple pest worldwide. As its name suggests, it loves apples of all types, including ornamental crabapples, but it will also feed on elm, alder, mountain ash, hawthorn, serviceberry, and pyracantha. These have bluish-black bodies under their white fluff, and they feed on the base of new shoots, branches, roots, and trunk wounds. Their feeding causes galls to form, and these cracked and swollen areas on branches – perfect entry points for diseases such as rots and canker – are the primary reason these insects are such serious pests, and why they are sometimes called American blight aphids. Eriosoma lanigerum. Woolly elm aphids, Eriosoma americanum, feed on American elm foliage in the spring, and the roots of serviceberry (also known as Saskatoon berry) as an alternate host in the summer. On elms, feeding causes the edges of new leaves to roll inwards and form a gall-like swelling where they hide out. On Saskatoon berry bushes, especially young plants, root feeding can result in stunting and reduced berry production, and the damage can be fatal. On the elm, the adult has a red-orange body with some white sticky bubbles, or it may be covered with a waxy cotton-like coating. On the serviceberry, where they are found underground, they are light blue to black, and may have some waxy fluff on their thoraxes. The woolly alder aphid, Prociphilus tessellatus, feeds on silver maple in the spring, and alder in the summer. This is the super fluffy species you may already be familiar with, and they look like pieces of cotton floating through the air when they’re flying, or fungi when they’re congregated on twigs. Even their eggs are woolly. Besides looking a little strange or even ugly on the plant, this species doesn’t cause significant damage. Large populations can cause shriveled leaves, and the honeydew they produce can make vehicles, sidewalks, and any lawn furniture positioned under the maple or alder trees sticky. But these issues aren’t usually serious enough to warrant control. Biology and Life Cycle Most of the woolly aphids have two primary hosts, which they alternate feeding and reproducing on. Often, they lay eggs on the primary host, the eggs overwinter in the cracks of bark, females hatch in the spring, and they begin to produce live offspring. They will spend a few generations feeding and reproducing, without males, on the primary host plant. A generation of winged females will fly to the secondary host soon after, and they will spend most of the rest of the season feeding and reproducing there. In the late summer or early fall, a second wave of winged females head back to the primary host, and produce a generation of males and females. These mate, and each female lays one egg that will overwinter and hatch in the spring, producing another all-female generation. Some species will hatch before winter, and spend the season as nymphs on the host plant’s roots. Females can produce hundreds of offspring during their one-month lifespan, and these offspring reach sexual maturity in four to ten days. One of my professors described this as giving birth to live, pregnant young. Thus, populations can explode very quickly. Monitoring Keeping a close eye out for these pests before their populations – and the damage they cause – gets out of control is essential for effective management. The downside is, once the damage is visible, management options are often limited or rendered ineffective. Check the undersides of leaves for woolly aphid populations. Look out for shiny, sticky honeydew and an accumulation of waxy shed skins on the upper side of leaves. They are easily mistaken for mealybugs and scale insects. But mealybugs often have tails, and both mealybugs and scales are flat while aphids are pear shaped. Often, the distinguishing feature of aphids is the two tailpipes (cornicles) on the end of their abdomens, but they are short and often covered by fluff on woolly species. Organic Control Methods Control is not often warranted, especially on mature, healthy trees and shrubs. However, infestations of certain species, especially Eriosoma lanigerum, can become serious enough to bust out the control options. If control is necessary, approach these pests with an integrated pest management (IPM) strategy, combining monitoring with cultural and biological methods for safe, effective control. Cultural and Physical Control Keep your plants healthy to achieve tolerance and minimize damage. Avoid planting one host – elm, for example – near or in the same vicinity as the other host – such as serviceberry. Try to avoid cultivation of one host in the same area where wild alternate hosts are growing as well. Physical control methods can be hard or impossible to use on tall trees, but on smaller trees and shrubs, you can use a strong stream of water from the hose or scrub infested areas with a stiff brush to dislodge colonies. Prune out and destroy heavily infested twigs and branches. These pests spread by crawling, flying, or being transported via plant material, clothing, gardening shoes, and tools, so examine new plants and clean your tools between working with infested and non-infested plants. Plant resistant varieties of common host species. For example, ‘Northern Spy’ apples are resistant to the woolly apple aphid. Biological Control Parasitic wasps are the primary enemies of these pests in general, and they can often provide adequate control of small populations. Aphelinus mali, for example, specifically targets the woolly apple aphid. Aphelinus mali hatch holes. Lacewings, ladybugs, hoverflies, and even earwigs will snack on them as well. Aphidoletes aphidimyza is a commercially available predator commonly referred to as the aphid midge that can be applied and works well in indoor settings such as greenhouses. The adults lay eggs near the aphids, and the resulting larvae prey on the pests. Aphidoletes aphidimyza Find these predators available at Arbico Organics. None of these beneficial insects will target the underground pests, however. That is a job for the nematode Steinernema carpocapsae, which will attack underground colonies. NemAttack Sc You can find these sold under the brand name NemAttack at Arbico Organics. Learn more about how to use beneficial nematodes in our guide. Organic Pesticides Using pesticides to control these insects can be difficult, thanks to their protective waxy coating. Good coverage and penetration of this fluffy coating is essential to achieve any effect with contact products, whether organic or chemical in nature. Most of the products that are effective against smooth aphid types can provide some control of the fluffy types as well, provided coverage is adequate. Monterey Horticultural Oil Horticultural oils, such as this one from Monterey that is available from Arbico Organics, and insecticidal soap products such as this one from Bonide, also available at Arbico Organics, are two viable options. Bonide Insecticidal Soap There are no organic or chemical controls available that are specific to the treatment of underground pests. Chemical Pesticides Chemical control is rarely justified with these pests. As with organic contact products, chemical contact pesticides such as pyrethroids are not very effective against them either. Systemic chemicals, those that are absorbed and translocated throughout the plant, are the most effective, as these are sucked up with the sap they feed on. However, chemical applications can actually serve to encourage insect outbreaks, as these can be toxic to beneficial insects as well. Reducing or wiping out predator populations gives the aphids a chance to reach infestation levels again. They are not choosy about pollinators either, so avoid using chemicals on plants that attract bees and other pollinators, and if you must use them as a last resort, wait until the plants have finished blooming. Beware the Plant-Eating Cotton Balls Though these insects can look like innocent bits of floating cotton, they can quickly settle into fluffy plant-sucking colonies. Not only can they cause leaf curl or stem galls, they also don’t exactly create what you’d call a desirable aesthetic on ornamental trees and shrubs. Luckily, the damage they cause is often minor, and nature provides some control to go along with your cultural and physical strategies.  Have you ever dealt with these downy insects before? Let us know down in the comments what plants they targeted, and how you controlled them! And for more information about other plant-sucking insect pests, have a read of these guides next: © Ask the Experts, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. See our TOS for more details. Originally published August 18th, 2021. Last updated April 2nd, 2025. Product photos via Arbico Organics. Uncredited photos: Shutterstock. !function(f,b,e,v,n,t,s) if(f.fbq)return;n=f.fbq=function()n.callMethod? n.callMethod.apply(n,arguments):n.queue.push(arguments); if(!f._fbq)f._fbq=n;n.push=n;n.loaded=!0;n.version='2.0'; n.queue=[];t=b.createElement(e);t.async=!0; t.src=v;s=b.getElementsByTagName(e)[0]; s.parentNode.insertBefore(t,s)(window, document,'script', ' fbq('init', '176410929431717'); fbq('track', 'PageView'); Source link

[angusstory]

Eriosomatinae Just in case there weren’t enough white waxy insects for you to tell apart already, such as scales and mealybugs, here is another fluffy type. Now introducing the shrub- and tree-loving woolly aphid, an insect that takes the waxy coating game to a whole new level. Aphids are notorious plant pests, and the fuzzy types can be just as hard to identify by species – and sometimes even harder to control – than their smooth, shiny relatives. We link to vendors to help you find relevant products. If you buy from one of our links, we may earn a commission. We’ve compiled everything you need to know about these sap-sucking pests, so you’ll know how to deal with them when they show up on your apples or landscape trees. Here’s what we’ll cover in this guide: What Are Woolly Aphids? Belonging to the Aphididae subfamily Eriosomatinae, these pests suck the sap from a variety of plants, especially trees and shrubs such as edible and ornamental apple, cotoneaster, maple, elm, alder, and beech. They feed on both underground and aboveground parts of these plants, from the roots to the twigs and leaves. Galls caused by woolly apple aphids. This causes twisted and curled leaves as well as chlorosis, or yellowing of the foliage, and may result in reduced plant vigor. Some species cause galls, which can provide entry points for fungal diseases. However, the primary negative effect of these woolly creatures is cosmetic, and their main hosts are ornamental, so infestations of white fluffy insects are not appealing. Like other sap-sucking pests, these insects exude sweet honeydew, which attracts ants, and an ugly black sooty mold can grow on stickied leaf surfaces. Identification Woolly aphids have three-millimeter-long, pear-shaped bodies that are covered in a white, waxy, fluffy coating. There are several common species to look out for on your plants. Often, the host gives the best clues to help identify what species is attacking, as the insects themselves can look quite similar. The woolly apple aphid, Eriosoma lanigerum, is a common and serious apple pest worldwide. As its name suggests, it loves apples of all types, including ornamental crabapples, but it will also feed on elm, alder, mountain ash, hawthorn, serviceberry, and pyracantha. These have bluish-black bodies under their white fluff, and they feed on the base of new shoots, branches, roots, and trunk wounds. Their feeding causes galls to form, and these cracked and swollen areas on branches – perfect entry points for diseases such as rots and canker – are the primary reason these insects are such serious pests, and why they are sometimes called American blight aphids. Eriosoma lanigerum. Woolly elm aphids, Eriosoma americanum, feed on American elm foliage in the spring, and the roots of serviceberry (also known as Saskatoon berry) as an alternate host in the summer. On elms, feeding causes the edges of new leaves to roll inwards and form a gall-like swelling where they hide out. On Saskatoon berry bushes, especially young plants, root feeding can result in stunting and reduced berry production, and the damage can be fatal. On the elm, the adult has a red-orange body with some white sticky bubbles, or it may be covered with a waxy cotton-like coating. On the serviceberry, where they are found underground, they are light blue to black, and may have some waxy fluff on their thoraxes. The woolly alder aphid, Prociphilus tessellatus, feeds on silver maple in the spring, and alder in the summer. This is the super fluffy species you may already be familiar with, and they look like pieces of cotton floating through the air when they’re flying, or fungi when they’re congregated on twigs. Even their eggs are woolly. Besides looking a little strange or even ugly on the plant, this species doesn’t cause significant damage. Large populations can cause shriveled leaves, and the honeydew they produce can make vehicles, sidewalks, and any lawn furniture positioned under the maple or alder trees sticky. But these issues aren’t usually serious enough to warrant control. Biology and Life Cycle Most of the woolly aphids have two primary hosts, which they alternate feeding and reproducing on. Often, they lay eggs on the primary host, the eggs overwinter in the cracks of bark, females hatch in the spring, and they begin to produce live offspring. They will spend a few generations feeding and reproducing, without males, on the primary host plant. A generation of winged females will fly to the secondary host soon after, and they will spend most of the rest of the season feeding and reproducing there. In the late summer or early fall, a second wave of winged females head back to the primary host, and produce a generation of males and females. These mate, and each female lays one egg that will overwinter and hatch in the spring, producing another all-female generation. Some species will hatch before winter, and spend the season as nymphs on the host plant’s roots. Females can produce hundreds of offspring during their one-month lifespan, and these offspring reach sexual maturity in four to ten days. One of my professors described this as giving birth to live, pregnant young. Thus, populations can explode very quickly. Monitoring Keeping a close eye out for these pests before their populations – and the damage they cause – gets out of control is essential for effective management. The downside is, once the damage is visible, management options are often limited or rendered ineffective. Check the undersides of leaves for woolly aphid populations. Look out for shiny, sticky honeydew and an accumulation of waxy shed skins on the upper side of leaves. They are easily mistaken for mealybugs and scale insects. But mealybugs often have tails, and both mealybugs and scales are flat while aphids are pear shaped. Often, the distinguishing feature of aphids is the two tailpipes (cornicles) on the end of their abdomens, but they are short and often covered by fluff on woolly species. Organic Control Methods Control is not often warranted, especially on mature, healthy trees and shrubs. However, infestations of certain species, especially Eriosoma lanigerum, can become serious enough to bust out the control options. If control is necessary, approach these pests with an integrated pest management (IPM) strategy, combining monitoring with cultural and biological methods for safe, effective control. Cultural and Physical Control Keep your plants healthy to achieve tolerance and minimize damage. Avoid planting one host – elm, for example – near or in the same vicinity as the other host – such as serviceberry. Try to avoid cultivation of one host in the same area where wild alternate hosts are growing as well. Physical control methods can be hard or impossible to use on tall trees, but on smaller trees and shrubs, you can use a strong stream of water from the hose or scrub infested areas with a stiff brush to dislodge colonies. Prune out and destroy heavily infested twigs and branches. These pests spread by crawling, flying, or being transported via plant material, clothing, gardening shoes, and tools, so examine new plants and clean your tools between working with infested and non-infested plants. Plant resistant varieties of common host species. For example, ‘Northern Spy’ apples are resistant to the woolly apple aphid. Biological Control Parasitic wasps are the primary enemies of these pests in general, and they can often provide adequate control of small populations. Aphelinus mali, for example, specifically targets the woolly apple aphid. Aphelinus mali hatch holes. Lacewings, ladybugs, hoverflies, and even earwigs will snack on them as well. Aphidoletes aphidimyza is a commercially available predator commonly referred to as the aphid midge that can be applied and works well in indoor settings such as greenhouses. The adults lay eggs near the aphids, and the resulting larvae prey on the pests. Aphidoletes aphidimyza Find these predators available at Arbico Organics. None of these beneficial insects will target the underground pests, however. That is a job for the nematode Steinernema carpocapsae, which will attack underground colonies. NemAttack Sc You can find these sold under the brand name NemAttack at Arbico Organics. Learn more about how to use beneficial nematodes in our guide. Organic Pesticides Using pesticides to control these insects can be difficult, thanks to their protective waxy coating. Good coverage and penetration of this fluffy coating is essential to achieve any effect with contact products, whether organic or chemical in nature. Most of the products that are effective against smooth aphid types can provide some control of the fluffy types as well, provided coverage is adequate. Monterey Horticultural Oil Horticultural oils, such as this one from Monterey that is available from Arbico Organics, and insecticidal soap products such as this one from Bonide, also available at Arbico Organics, are two viable options. Bonide Insecticidal Soap There are no organic or chemical controls available that are specific to the treatment of underground pests. Chemical Pesticides Chemical control is rarely justified with these pests. As with organic contact products, chemical contact pesticides such as pyrethroids are not very effective against them either. Systemic chemicals, those that are absorbed and translocated throughout the plant, are the most effective, as these are sucked up with the sap they feed on. However, chemical applications can actually serve to encourage insect outbreaks, as these can be toxic to beneficial insects as well. Reducing or wiping out predator populations gives the aphids a chance to reach infestation levels again. They are not choosy about pollinators either, so avoid using chemicals on plants that attract bees and other pollinators, and if you must use them as a last resort, wait until the plants have finished blooming. Beware the Plant-Eating Cotton Balls Though these insects can look like innocent bits of floating cotton, they can quickly settle into fluffy plant-sucking colonies. Not only can they cause leaf curl or stem galls, they also don’t exactly create what you’d call a desirable aesthetic on ornamental trees and shrubs. Luckily, the damage they cause is often minor, and nature provides some control to go along with your cultural and physical strategies.  Have you ever dealt with these downy insects before? Let us know down in the comments what plants they targeted, and how you controlled them! And for more information about other plant-sucking insect pests, have a read of these guides next: © Ask the Experts, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. See our TOS for more details. Originally published August 18th, 2021. Last updated April 2nd, 2025. Product photos via Arbico Organics. Uncredited photos: Shutterstock. !function(f,b,e,v,n,t,s) if(f.fbq)return;n=f.fbq=function()n.callMethod? n.callMethod.apply(n,arguments):n.queue.push(arguments); if(!f._fbq)f._fbq=n;n.push=n;n.loaded=!0;n.version='2.0'; n.queue=[];t=b.createElement(e);t.async=!0; t.src=v;s=b.getElementsByTagName(e)[0]; s.parentNode.insertBefore(t,s)(window, document,'script', ' fbq('init', '176410929431717'); fbq('track', 'PageView'); Source link

[tumibaba]

Eriosomatinae Just in case there weren’t enough white waxy insects for you to tell apart already, such as scales and mealybugs, here is another fluffy type. Now introducing the shrub- and tree-loving woolly aphid, an insect that takes the waxy coating game to a whole new level. Aphids are notorious plant pests, and the fuzzy types can be just as hard to identify by species – and sometimes even harder to control – than their smooth, shiny relatives. We link to vendors to help you find relevant products. If you buy from one of our links, we may earn a commission. We’ve compiled everything you need to know about these sap-sucking pests, so you’ll know how to deal with them when they show up on your apples or landscape trees. Here’s what we’ll cover in this guide: What Are Woolly Aphids? Belonging to the Aphididae subfamily Eriosomatinae, these pests suck the sap from a variety of plants, especially trees and shrubs such as edible and ornamental apple, cotoneaster, maple, elm, alder, and beech. They feed on both underground and aboveground parts of these plants, from the roots to the twigs and leaves. Galls caused by woolly apple aphids. This causes twisted and curled leaves as well as chlorosis, or yellowing of the foliage, and may result in reduced plant vigor. Some species cause galls, which can provide entry points for fungal diseases. However, the primary negative effect of these woolly creatures is cosmetic, and their main hosts are ornamental, so infestations of white fluffy insects are not appealing. Like other sap-sucking pests, these insects exude sweet honeydew, which attracts ants, and an ugly black sooty mold can grow on stickied leaf surfaces. Identification Woolly aphids have three-millimeter-long, pear-shaped bodies that are covered in a white, waxy, fluffy coating. There are several common species to look out for on your plants. Often, the host gives the best clues to help identify what species is attacking, as the insects themselves can look quite similar. The woolly apple aphid, Eriosoma lanigerum, is a common and serious apple pest worldwide. As its name suggests, it loves apples of all types, including ornamental crabapples, but it will also feed on elm, alder, mountain ash, hawthorn, serviceberry, and pyracantha. These have bluish-black bodies under their white fluff, and they feed on the base of new shoots, branches, roots, and trunk wounds. Their feeding causes galls to form, and these cracked and swollen areas on branches – perfect entry points for diseases such as rots and canker – are the primary reason these insects are such serious pests, and why they are sometimes called American blight aphids. Eriosoma lanigerum. Woolly elm aphids, Eriosoma americanum, feed on American elm foliage in the spring, and the roots of serviceberry (also known as Saskatoon berry) as an alternate host in the summer. On elms, feeding causes the edges of new leaves to roll inwards and form a gall-like swelling where they hide out. On Saskatoon berry bushes, especially young plants, root feeding can result in stunting and reduced berry production, and the damage can be fatal. On the elm, the adult has a red-orange body with some white sticky bubbles, or it may be covered with a waxy cotton-like coating. On the serviceberry, where they are found underground, they are light blue to black, and may have some waxy fluff on their thoraxes. The woolly alder aphid, Prociphilus tessellatus, feeds on silver maple in the spring, and alder in the summer. This is the super fluffy species you may already be familiar with, and they look like pieces of cotton floating through the air when they’re flying, or fungi when they’re congregated on twigs. Even their eggs are woolly. Besides looking a little strange or even ugly on the plant, this species doesn’t cause significant damage. Large populations can cause shriveled leaves, and the honeydew they produce can make vehicles, sidewalks, and any lawn furniture positioned under the maple or alder trees sticky. But these issues aren’t usually serious enough to warrant control. Biology and Life Cycle Most of the woolly aphids have two primary hosts, which they alternate feeding and reproducing on. Often, they lay eggs on the primary host, the eggs overwinter in the cracks of bark, females hatch in the spring, and they begin to produce live offspring. They will spend a few generations feeding and reproducing, without males, on the primary host plant. A generation of winged females will fly to the secondary host soon after, and they will spend most of the rest of the season feeding and reproducing there. In the late summer or early fall, a second wave of winged females head back to the primary host, and produce a generation of males and females. These mate, and each female lays one egg that will overwinter and hatch in the spring, producing another all-female generation. Some species will hatch before winter, and spend the season as nymphs on the host plant’s roots. Females can produce hundreds of offspring during their one-month lifespan, and these offspring reach sexual maturity in four to ten days. One of my professors described this as giving birth to live, pregnant young. Thus, populations can explode very quickly. Monitoring Keeping a close eye out for these pests before their populations – and the damage they cause – gets out of control is essential for effective management. The downside is, once the damage is visible, management options are often limited or rendered ineffective. Check the undersides of leaves for woolly aphid populations. Look out for shiny, sticky honeydew and an accumulation of waxy shed skins on the upper side of leaves. They are easily mistaken for mealybugs and scale insects. But mealybugs often have tails, and both mealybugs and scales are flat while aphids are pear shaped. Often, the distinguishing feature of aphids is the two tailpipes (cornicles) on the end of their abdomens, but they are short and often covered by fluff on woolly species. Organic Control Methods Control is not often warranted, especially on mature, healthy trees and shrubs. However, infestations of certain species, especially Eriosoma lanigerum, can become serious enough to bust out the control options. If control is necessary, approach these pests with an integrated pest management (IPM) strategy, combining monitoring with cultural and biological methods for safe, effective control. Cultural and Physical Control Keep your plants healthy to achieve tolerance and minimize damage. Avoid planting one host – elm, for example – near or in the same vicinity as the other host – such as serviceberry. Try to avoid cultivation of one host in the same area where wild alternate hosts are growing as well. Physical control methods can be hard or impossible to use on tall trees, but on smaller trees and shrubs, you can use a strong stream of water from the hose or scrub infested areas with a stiff brush to dislodge colonies. Prune out and destroy heavily infested twigs and branches. These pests spread by crawling, flying, or being transported via plant material, clothing, gardening shoes, and tools, so examine new plants and clean your tools between working with infested and non-infested plants. Plant resistant varieties of common host species. For example, ‘Northern Spy’ apples are resistant to the woolly apple aphid. Biological Control Parasitic wasps are the primary enemies of these pests in general, and they can often provide adequate control of small populations. Aphelinus mali, for example, specifically targets the woolly apple aphid. Aphelinus mali hatch holes. Lacewings, ladybugs, hoverflies, and even earwigs will snack on them as well. Aphidoletes aphidimyza is a commercially available predator commonly referred to as the aphid midge that can be applied and works well in indoor settings such as greenhouses. The adults lay eggs near the aphids, and the resulting larvae prey on the pests. Aphidoletes aphidimyza Find these predators available at Arbico Organics. None of these beneficial insects will target the underground pests, however. That is a job for the nematode Steinernema carpocapsae, which will attack underground colonies. NemAttack Sc You can find these sold under the brand name NemAttack at Arbico Organics. Learn more about how to use beneficial nematodes in our guide. Organic Pesticides Using pesticides to control these insects can be difficult, thanks to their protective waxy coating. Good coverage and penetration of this fluffy coating is essential to achieve any effect with contact products, whether organic or chemical in nature. Most of the products that are effective against smooth aphid types can provide some control of the fluffy types as well, provided coverage is adequate. Monterey Horticultural Oil Horticultural oils, such as this one from Monterey that is available from Arbico Organics, and insecticidal soap products such as this one from Bonide, also available at Arbico Organics, are two viable options. Bonide Insecticidal Soap There are no organic or chemical controls available that are specific to the treatment of underground pests. Chemical Pesticides Chemical control is rarely justified with these pests. As with organic contact products, chemical contact pesticides such as pyrethroids are not very effective against them either. Systemic chemicals, those that are absorbed and translocated throughout the plant, are the most effective, as these are sucked up with the sap they feed on. However, chemical applications can actually serve to encourage insect outbreaks, as these can be toxic to beneficial insects as well. Reducing or wiping out predator populations gives the aphids a chance to reach infestation levels again. They are not choosy about pollinators either, so avoid using chemicals on plants that attract bees and other pollinators, and if you must use them as a last resort, wait until the plants have finished blooming. Beware the Plant-Eating Cotton Balls Though these insects can look like innocent bits of floating cotton, they can quickly settle into fluffy plant-sucking colonies. Not only can they cause leaf curl or stem galls, they also don’t exactly create what you’d call a desirable aesthetic on ornamental trees and shrubs. Luckily, the damage they cause is often minor, and nature provides some control to go along with your cultural and physical strategies.  Have you ever dealt with these downy insects before? Let us know down in the comments what plants they targeted, and how you controlled them! And for more information about other plant-sucking insect pests, have a read of these guides next: © Ask the Experts, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. See our TOS for more details. Originally published August 18th, 2021. Last updated April 2nd, 2025. Product photos via Arbico Organics. Uncredited photos: Shutterstock. !function(f,b,e,v,n,t,s) if(f.fbq)return;n=f.fbq=function()n.callMethod? n.callMethod.apply(n,arguments):n.queue.push(arguments); if(!f._fbq)f._fbq=n;n.push=n;n.loaded=!0;n.version='2.0'; n.queue=[];t=b.createElement(e);t.async=!0; t.src=v;s=b.getElementsByTagName(e)[0]; s.parentNode.insertBefore(t,s)(window, document,'script', ' fbq('init', '176410929431717'); fbq('track', 'PageView'); Source link

[romaleen]

Eriosomatinae Just in case there weren’t enough white waxy insects for you to tell apart already, such as scales and mealybugs, here is another fluffy type. Now introducing the shrub- and tree-loving woolly aphid, an insect that takes the waxy coating game to a whole new level. Aphids are notorious plant pests, and the fuzzy types can be just as hard to identify by species – and sometimes even harder to control – than their smooth, shiny relatives. We link to vendors to help you find relevant products. If you buy from one of our links, we may earn a commission. We’ve compiled everything you need to know about these sap-sucking pests, so you’ll know how to deal with them when they show up on your apples or landscape trees. Here’s what we’ll cover in this guide: What Are Woolly Aphids? Belonging to the Aphididae subfamily Eriosomatinae, these pests suck the sap from a variety of plants, especially trees and shrubs such as edible and ornamental apple, cotoneaster, maple, elm, alder, and beech. They feed on both underground and aboveground parts of these plants, from the roots to the twigs and leaves. Galls caused by woolly apple aphids. This causes twisted and curled leaves as well as chlorosis, or yellowing of the foliage, and may result in reduced plant vigor. Some species cause galls, which can provide entry points for fungal diseases. However, the primary negative effect of these woolly creatures is cosmetic, and their main hosts are ornamental, so infestations of white fluffy insects are not appealing. Like other sap-sucking pests, these insects exude sweet honeydew, which attracts ants, and an ugly black sooty mold can grow on stickied leaf surfaces. Identification Woolly aphids have three-millimeter-long, pear-shaped bodies that are covered in a white, waxy, fluffy coating. There are several common species to look out for on your plants. Often, the host gives the best clues to help identify what species is attacking, as the insects themselves can look quite similar. The woolly apple aphid, Eriosoma lanigerum, is a common and serious apple pest worldwide. As its name suggests, it loves apples of all types, including ornamental crabapples, but it will also feed on elm, alder, mountain ash, hawthorn, serviceberry, and pyracantha. These have bluish-black bodies under their white fluff, and they feed on the base of new shoots, branches, roots, and trunk wounds. Their feeding causes galls to form, and these cracked and swollen areas on branches – perfect entry points for diseases such as rots and canker – are the primary reason these insects are such serious pests, and why they are sometimes called American blight aphids. Eriosoma lanigerum. Woolly elm aphids, Eriosoma americanum, feed on American elm foliage in the spring, and the roots of serviceberry (also known as Saskatoon berry) as an alternate host in the summer. On elms, feeding causes the edges of new leaves to roll inwards and form a gall-like swelling where they hide out. On Saskatoon berry bushes, especially young plants, root feeding can result in stunting and reduced berry production, and the damage can be fatal. On the elm, the adult has a red-orange body with some white sticky bubbles, or it may be covered with a waxy cotton-like coating. On the serviceberry, where they are found underground, they are light blue to black, and may have some waxy fluff on their thoraxes. The woolly alder aphid, Prociphilus tessellatus, feeds on silver maple in the spring, and alder in the summer. This is the super fluffy species you may already be familiar with, and they look like pieces of cotton floating through the air when they’re flying, or fungi when they’re congregated on twigs. Even their eggs are woolly. Besides looking a little strange or even ugly on the plant, this species doesn’t cause significant damage. Large populations can cause shriveled leaves, and the honeydew they produce can make vehicles, sidewalks, and any lawn furniture positioned under the maple or alder trees sticky. But these issues aren’t usually serious enough to warrant control. Biology and Life Cycle Most of the woolly aphids have two primary hosts, which they alternate feeding and reproducing on. Often, they lay eggs on the primary host, the eggs overwinter in the cracks of bark, females hatch in the spring, and they begin to produce live offspring. They will spend a few generations feeding and reproducing, without males, on the primary host plant. A generation of winged females will fly to the secondary host soon after, and they will spend most of the rest of the season feeding and reproducing there. In the late summer or early fall, a second wave of winged females head back to the primary host, and produce a generation of males and females. These mate, and each female lays one egg that will overwinter and hatch in the spring, producing another all-female generation. Some species will hatch before winter, and spend the season as nymphs on the host plant’s roots. Females can produce hundreds of offspring during their one-month lifespan, and these offspring reach sexual maturity in four to ten days. One of my professors described this as giving birth to live, pregnant young. Thus, populations can explode very quickly. Monitoring Keeping a close eye out for these pests before their populations – and the damage they cause – gets out of control is essential for effective management. The downside is, once the damage is visible, management options are often limited or rendered ineffective. Check the undersides of leaves for woolly aphid populations. Look out for shiny, sticky honeydew and an accumulation of waxy shed skins on the upper side of leaves. They are easily mistaken for mealybugs and scale insects. But mealybugs often have tails, and both mealybugs and scales are flat while aphids are pear shaped. Often, the distinguishing feature of aphids is the two tailpipes (cornicles) on the end of their abdomens, but they are short and often covered by fluff on woolly species. Organic Control Methods Control is not often warranted, especially on mature, healthy trees and shrubs. However, infestations of certain species, especially Eriosoma lanigerum, can become serious enough to bust out the control options. If control is necessary, approach these pests with an integrated pest management (IPM) strategy, combining monitoring with cultural and biological methods for safe, effective control. Cultural and Physical Control Keep your plants healthy to achieve tolerance and minimize damage. Avoid planting one host – elm, for example – near or in the same vicinity as the other host – such as serviceberry. Try to avoid cultivation of one host in the same area where wild alternate hosts are growing as well. Physical control methods can be hard or impossible to use on tall trees, but on smaller trees and shrubs, you can use a strong stream of water from the hose or scrub infested areas with a stiff brush to dislodge colonies. Prune out and destroy heavily infested twigs and branches. These pests spread by crawling, flying, or being transported via plant material, clothing, gardening shoes, and tools, so examine new plants and clean your tools between working with infested and non-infested plants. Plant resistant varieties of common host species. For example, ‘Northern Spy’ apples are resistant to the woolly apple aphid. Biological Control Parasitic wasps are the primary enemies of these pests in general, and they can often provide adequate control of small populations. Aphelinus mali, for example, specifically targets the woolly apple aphid. Aphelinus mali hatch holes. Lacewings, ladybugs, hoverflies, and even earwigs will snack on them as well. Aphidoletes aphidimyza is a commercially available predator commonly referred to as the aphid midge that can be applied and works well in indoor settings such as greenhouses. The adults lay eggs near the aphids, and the resulting larvae prey on the pests. Aphidoletes aphidimyza Find these predators available at Arbico Organics. None of these beneficial insects will target the underground pests, however. That is a job for the nematode Steinernema carpocapsae, which will attack underground colonies. NemAttack Sc You can find these sold under the brand name NemAttack at Arbico Organics. Learn more about how to use beneficial nematodes in our guide. Organic Pesticides Using pesticides to control these insects can be difficult, thanks to their protective waxy coating. Good coverage and penetration of this fluffy coating is essential to achieve any effect with contact products, whether organic or chemical in nature. Most of the products that are effective against smooth aphid types can provide some control of the fluffy types as well, provided coverage is adequate. Monterey Horticultural Oil Horticultural oils, such as this one from Monterey that is available from Arbico Organics, and insecticidal soap products such as this one from Bonide, also available at Arbico Organics, are two viable options. Bonide Insecticidal Soap There are no organic or chemical controls available that are specific to the treatment of underground pests. Chemical Pesticides Chemical control is rarely justified with these pests. As with organic contact products, chemical contact pesticides such as pyrethroids are not very effective against them either. Systemic chemicals, those that are absorbed and translocated throughout the plant, are the most effective, as these are sucked up with the sap they feed on. However, chemical applications can actually serve to encourage insect outbreaks, as these can be toxic to beneficial insects as well. Reducing or wiping out predator populations gives the aphids a chance to reach infestation levels again. They are not choosy about pollinators either, so avoid using chemicals on plants that attract bees and other pollinators, and if you must use them as a last resort, wait until the plants have finished blooming. Beware the Plant-Eating Cotton Balls Though these insects can look like innocent bits of floating cotton, they can quickly settle into fluffy plant-sucking colonies. Not only can they cause leaf curl or stem galls, they also don’t exactly create what you’d call a desirable aesthetic on ornamental trees and shrubs. Luckily, the damage they cause is often minor, and nature provides some control to go along with your cultural and physical strategies.  Have you ever dealt with these downy insects before? Let us know down in the comments what plants they targeted, and how you controlled them! And for more information about other plant-sucking insect pests, have a read of these guides next: © Ask the Experts, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. See our TOS for more details. Originally published August 18th, 2021. Last updated April 2nd, 2025. Product photos via Arbico Organics. Uncredited photos: Shutterstock. !function(f,b,e,v,n,t,s) if(f.fbq)return;n=f.fbq=function()n.callMethod? n.callMethod.apply(n,arguments):n.queue.push(arguments); if(!f._fbq)f._fbq=n;n.push=n;n.loaded=!0;n.version='2.0'; n.queue=[];t=b.createElement(e);t.async=!0; t.src=v;s=b.getElementsByTagName(e)[0]; s.parentNode.insertBefore(t,s)(window, document,'script', ' fbq('init', '176410929431717'); fbq('track', 'PageView'); Source link

[monaleen101]

Eriosomatinae Just in case there weren’t enough white waxy insects for you to tell apart already, such as scales and mealybugs, here is another fluffy type. Now introducing the shrub- and tree-loving woolly aphid, an insect that takes the waxy coating game to a whole new level. Aphids are notorious plant pests, and the fuzzy types can be just as hard to identify by species – and sometimes even harder to control – than their smooth, shiny relatives. We link to vendors to help you find relevant products. If you buy from one of our links, we may earn a commission. We’ve compiled everything you need to know about these sap-sucking pests, so you’ll know how to deal with them when they show up on your apples or landscape trees. Here’s what we’ll cover in this guide: What Are Woolly Aphids? Belonging to the Aphididae subfamily Eriosomatinae, these pests suck the sap from a variety of plants, especially trees and shrubs such as edible and ornamental apple, cotoneaster, maple, elm, alder, and beech. They feed on both underground and aboveground parts of these plants, from the roots to the twigs and leaves. Galls caused by woolly apple aphids. This causes twisted and curled leaves as well as chlorosis, or yellowing of the foliage, and may result in reduced plant vigor. Some species cause galls, which can provide entry points for fungal diseases. However, the primary negative effect of these woolly creatures is cosmetic, and their main hosts are ornamental, so infestations of white fluffy insects are not appealing. Like other sap-sucking pests, these insects exude sweet honeydew, which attracts ants, and an ugly black sooty mold can grow on stickied leaf surfaces. Identification Woolly aphids have three-millimeter-long, pear-shaped bodies that are covered in a white, waxy, fluffy coating. There are several common species to look out for on your plants. Often, the host gives the best clues to help identify what species is attacking, as the insects themselves can look quite similar. The woolly apple aphid, Eriosoma lanigerum, is a common and serious apple pest worldwide. As its name suggests, it loves apples of all types, including ornamental crabapples, but it will also feed on elm, alder, mountain ash, hawthorn, serviceberry, and pyracantha. These have bluish-black bodies under their white fluff, and they feed on the base of new shoots, branches, roots, and trunk wounds. Their feeding causes galls to form, and these cracked and swollen areas on branches – perfect entry points for diseases such as rots and canker – are the primary reason these insects are such serious pests, and why they are sometimes called American blight aphids. Eriosoma lanigerum. Woolly elm aphids, Eriosoma americanum, feed on American elm foliage in the spring, and the roots of serviceberry (also known as Saskatoon berry) as an alternate host in the summer. On elms, feeding causes the edges of new leaves to roll inwards and form a gall-like swelling where they hide out. On Saskatoon berry bushes, especially young plants, root feeding can result in stunting and reduced berry production, and the damage can be fatal. On the elm, the adult has a red-orange body with some white sticky bubbles, or it may be covered with a waxy cotton-like coating. On the serviceberry, where they are found underground, they are light blue to black, and may have some waxy fluff on their thoraxes. The woolly alder aphid, Prociphilus tessellatus, feeds on silver maple in the spring, and alder in the summer. This is the super fluffy species you may already be familiar with, and they look like pieces of cotton floating through the air when they’re flying, or fungi when they’re congregated on twigs. Even their eggs are woolly. Besides looking a little strange or even ugly on the plant, this species doesn’t cause significant damage. Large populations can cause shriveled leaves, and the honeydew they produce can make vehicles, sidewalks, and any lawn furniture positioned under the maple or alder trees sticky. But these issues aren’t usually serious enough to warrant control. Biology and Life Cycle Most of the woolly aphids have two primary hosts, which they alternate feeding and reproducing on. Often, they lay eggs on the primary host, the eggs overwinter in the cracks of bark, females hatch in the spring, and they begin to produce live offspring. They will spend a few generations feeding and reproducing, without males, on the primary host plant. A generation of winged females will fly to the secondary host soon after, and they will spend most of the rest of the season feeding and reproducing there. In the late summer or early fall, a second wave of winged females head back to the primary host, and produce a generation of males and females. These mate, and each female lays one egg that will overwinter and hatch in the spring, producing another all-female generation. Some species will hatch before winter, and spend the season as nymphs on the host plant’s roots. Females can produce hundreds of offspring during their one-month lifespan, and these offspring reach sexual maturity in four to ten days. One of my professors described this as giving birth to live, pregnant young. Thus, populations can explode very quickly. Monitoring Keeping a close eye out for these pests before their populations – and the damage they cause – gets out of control is essential for effective management. The downside is, once the damage is visible, management options are often limited or rendered ineffective. Check the undersides of leaves for woolly aphid populations. Look out for shiny, sticky honeydew and an accumulation of waxy shed skins on the upper side of leaves. They are easily mistaken for mealybugs and scale insects. But mealybugs often have tails, and both mealybugs and scales are flat while aphids are pear shaped. Often, the distinguishing feature of aphids is the two tailpipes (cornicles) on the end of their abdomens, but they are short and often covered by fluff on woolly species. Organic Control Methods Control is not often warranted, especially on mature, healthy trees and shrubs. However, infestations of certain species, especially Eriosoma lanigerum, can become serious enough to bust out the control options. If control is necessary, approach these pests with an integrated pest management (IPM) strategy, combining monitoring with cultural and biological methods for safe, effective control. Cultural and Physical Control Keep your plants healthy to achieve tolerance and minimize damage. Avoid planting one host – elm, for example – near or in the same vicinity as the other host – such as serviceberry. Try to avoid cultivation of one host in the same area where wild alternate hosts are growing as well. Physical control methods can be hard or impossible to use on tall trees, but on smaller trees and shrubs, you can use a strong stream of water from the hose or scrub infested areas with a stiff brush to dislodge colonies. Prune out and destroy heavily infested twigs and branches. These pests spread by crawling, flying, or being transported via plant material, clothing, gardening shoes, and tools, so examine new plants and clean your tools between working with infested and non-infested plants. Plant resistant varieties of common host species. For example, ‘Northern Spy’ apples are resistant to the woolly apple aphid. Biological Control Parasitic wasps are the primary enemies of these pests in general, and they can often provide adequate control of small populations. Aphelinus mali, for example, specifically targets the woolly apple aphid. Aphelinus mali hatch holes. Lacewings, ladybugs, hoverflies, and even earwigs will snack on them as well. Aphidoletes aphidimyza is a commercially available predator commonly referred to as the aphid midge that can be applied and works well in indoor settings such as greenhouses. The adults lay eggs near the aphids, and the resulting larvae prey on the pests. Aphidoletes aphidimyza Find these predators available at Arbico Organics. None of these beneficial insects will target the underground pests, however. That is a job for the nematode Steinernema carpocapsae, which will attack underground colonies. NemAttack Sc You can find these sold under the brand name NemAttack at Arbico Organics. Learn more about how to use beneficial nematodes in our guide. Organic Pesticides Using pesticides to control these insects can be difficult, thanks to their protective waxy coating. Good coverage and penetration of this fluffy coating is essential to achieve any effect with contact products, whether organic or chemical in nature. Most of the products that are effective against smooth aphid types can provide some control of the fluffy types as well, provided coverage is adequate. Monterey Horticultural Oil Horticultural oils, such as this one from Monterey that is available from Arbico Organics, and insecticidal soap products such as this one from Bonide, also available at Arbico Organics, are two viable options. Bonide Insecticidal Soap There are no organic or chemical controls available that are specific to the treatment of underground pests. Chemical Pesticides Chemical control is rarely justified with these pests. As with organic contact products, chemical contact pesticides such as pyrethroids are not very effective against them either. Systemic chemicals, those that are absorbed and translocated throughout the plant, are the most effective, as these are sucked up with the sap they feed on. However, chemical applications can actually serve to encourage insect outbreaks, as these can be toxic to beneficial insects as well. Reducing or wiping out predator populations gives the aphids a chance to reach infestation levels again. They are not choosy about pollinators either, so avoid using chemicals on plants that attract bees and other pollinators, and if you must use them as a last resort, wait until the plants have finished blooming. Beware the Plant-Eating Cotton Balls Though these insects can look like innocent bits of floating cotton, they can quickly settle into fluffy plant-sucking colonies. Not only can they cause leaf curl or stem galls, they also don’t exactly create what you’d call a desirable aesthetic on ornamental trees and shrubs. Luckily, the damage they cause is often minor, and nature provides some control to go along with your cultural and physical strategies.  Have you ever dealt with these downy insects before? Let us know down in the comments what plants they targeted, and how you controlled them! And for more information about other plant-sucking insect pests, have a read of these guides next: © Ask the Experts, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. See our TOS for more details. Originally published August 18th, 2021. Last updated April 2nd, 2025. Product photos via Arbico Organics. Uncredited photos: Shutterstock. !function(f,b,e,v,n,t,s) if(f.fbq)return;n=f.fbq=function()n.callMethod? n.callMethod.apply(n,arguments):n.queue.push(arguments); if(!f._fbq)f._fbq=n;n.push=n;n.loaded=!0;n.version='2.0'; n.queue=[];t=b.createElement(e);t.async=!0; t.src=v;s=b.getElementsByTagName(e)[0]; s.parentNode.insertBefore(t,s)(window, document,'script', ' fbq('init', '176410929431717'); fbq('track', 'PageView'); Source link

[iamownerofme]

Eriosomatinae Just in case there weren’t enough white waxy insects for you to tell apart already, such as scales and mealybugs, here is another fluffy type. Now introducing the shrub- and tree-loving woolly aphid, an insect that takes the waxy coating game to a whole new level. Aphids are notorious plant pests, and the fuzzy types can be just as hard to identify by species – and sometimes even harder to control – than their smooth, shiny relatives. We link to vendors to help you find relevant products. If you buy from one of our links, we may earn a commission. We’ve compiled everything you need to know about these sap-sucking pests, so you’ll know how to deal with them when they show up on your apples or landscape trees. Here’s what we’ll cover in this guide: What Are Woolly Aphids? Belonging to the Aphididae subfamily Eriosomatinae, these pests suck the sap from a variety of plants, especially trees and shrubs such as edible and ornamental apple, cotoneaster, maple, elm, alder, and beech. They feed on both underground and aboveground parts of these plants, from the roots to the twigs and leaves. Galls caused by woolly apple aphids. This causes twisted and curled leaves as well as chlorosis, or yellowing of the foliage, and may result in reduced plant vigor. Some species cause galls, which can provide entry points for fungal diseases. However, the primary negative effect of these woolly creatures is cosmetic, and their main hosts are ornamental, so infestations of white fluffy insects are not appealing. Like other sap-sucking pests, these insects exude sweet honeydew, which attracts ants, and an ugly black sooty mold can grow on stickied leaf surfaces. Identification Woolly aphids have three-millimeter-long, pear-shaped bodies that are covered in a white, waxy, fluffy coating. There are several common species to look out for on your plants. Often, the host gives the best clues to help identify what species is attacking, as the insects themselves can look quite similar. The woolly apple aphid, Eriosoma lanigerum, is a common and serious apple pest worldwide. As its name suggests, it loves apples of all types, including ornamental crabapples, but it will also feed on elm, alder, mountain ash, hawthorn, serviceberry, and pyracantha. These have bluish-black bodies under their white fluff, and they feed on the base of new shoots, branches, roots, and trunk wounds. Their feeding causes galls to form, and these cracked and swollen areas on branches – perfect entry points for diseases such as rots and canker – are the primary reason these insects are such serious pests, and why they are sometimes called American blight aphids. Eriosoma lanigerum. Woolly elm aphids, Eriosoma americanum, feed on American elm foliage in the spring, and the roots of serviceberry (also known as Saskatoon berry) as an alternate host in the summer. On elms, feeding causes the edges of new leaves to roll inwards and form a gall-like swelling where they hide out. On Saskatoon berry bushes, especially young plants, root feeding can result in stunting and reduced berry production, and the damage can be fatal. On the elm, the adult has a red-orange body with some white sticky bubbles, or it may be covered with a waxy cotton-like coating. On the serviceberry, where they are found underground, they are light blue to black, and may have some waxy fluff on their thoraxes. The woolly alder aphid, Prociphilus tessellatus, feeds on silver maple in the spring, and alder in the summer. This is the super fluffy species you may already be familiar with, and they look like pieces of cotton floating through the air when they’re flying, or fungi when they’re congregated on twigs. Even their eggs are woolly. Besides looking a little strange or even ugly on the plant, this species doesn’t cause significant damage. Large populations can cause shriveled leaves, and the honeydew they produce can make vehicles, sidewalks, and any lawn furniture positioned under the maple or alder trees sticky. But these issues aren’t usually serious enough to warrant control. Biology and Life Cycle Most of the woolly aphids have two primary hosts, which they alternate feeding and reproducing on. Often, they lay eggs on the primary host, the eggs overwinter in the cracks of bark, females hatch in the spring, and they begin to produce live offspring. They will spend a few generations feeding and reproducing, without males, on the primary host plant. A generation of winged females will fly to the secondary host soon after, and they will spend most of the rest of the season feeding and reproducing there. In the late summer or early fall, a second wave of winged females head back to the primary host, and produce a generation of males and females. These mate, and each female lays one egg that will overwinter and hatch in the spring, producing another all-female generation. Some species will hatch before winter, and spend the season as nymphs on the host plant’s roots. Females can produce hundreds of offspring during their one-month lifespan, and these offspring reach sexual maturity in four to ten days. One of my professors described this as giving birth to live, pregnant young. Thus, populations can explode very quickly. Monitoring Keeping a close eye out for these pests before their populations – and the damage they cause – gets out of control is essential for effective management. The downside is, once the damage is visible, management options are often limited or rendered ineffective. Check the undersides of leaves for woolly aphid populations. Look out for shiny, sticky honeydew and an accumulation of waxy shed skins on the upper side of leaves. They are easily mistaken for mealybugs and scale insects. But mealybugs often have tails, and both mealybugs and scales are flat while aphids are pear shaped. Often, the distinguishing feature of aphids is the two tailpipes (cornicles) on the end of their abdomens, but they are short and often covered by fluff on woolly species. Organic Control Methods Control is not often warranted, especially on mature, healthy trees and shrubs. However, infestations of certain species, especially Eriosoma lanigerum, can become serious enough to bust out the control options. If control is necessary, approach these pests with an integrated pest management (IPM) strategy, combining monitoring with cultural and biological methods for safe, effective control. Cultural and Physical Control Keep your plants healthy to achieve tolerance and minimize damage. Avoid planting one host – elm, for example – near or in the same vicinity as the other host – such as serviceberry. Try to avoid cultivation of one host in the same area where wild alternate hosts are growing as well. Physical control methods can be hard or impossible to use on tall trees, but on smaller trees and shrubs, you can use a strong stream of water from the hose or scrub infested areas with a stiff brush to dislodge colonies. Prune out and destroy heavily infested twigs and branches. These pests spread by crawling, flying, or being transported via plant material, clothing, gardening shoes, and tools, so examine new plants and clean your tools between working with infested and non-infested plants. Plant resistant varieties of common host species. For example, ‘Northern Spy’ apples are resistant to the woolly apple aphid. Biological Control Parasitic wasps are the primary enemies of these pests in general, and they can often provide adequate control of small populations. Aphelinus mali, for example, specifically targets the woolly apple aphid. Aphelinus mali hatch holes. Lacewings, ladybugs, hoverflies, and even earwigs will snack on them as well. Aphidoletes aphidimyza is a commercially available predator commonly referred to as the aphid midge that can be applied and works well in indoor settings such as greenhouses. The adults lay eggs near the aphids, and the resulting larvae prey on the pests. Aphidoletes aphidimyza Find these predators available at Arbico Organics. None of these beneficial insects will target the underground pests, however. That is a job for the nematode Steinernema carpocapsae, which will attack underground colonies. NemAttack Sc You can find these sold under the brand name NemAttack at Arbico Organics. Learn more about how to use beneficial nematodes in our guide. Organic Pesticides Using pesticides to control these insects can be difficult, thanks to their protective waxy coating. Good coverage and penetration of this fluffy coating is essential to achieve any effect with contact products, whether organic or chemical in nature. Most of the products that are effective against smooth aphid types can provide some control of the fluffy types as well, provided coverage is adequate. Monterey Horticultural Oil Horticultural oils, such as this one from Monterey that is available from Arbico Organics, and insecticidal soap products such as this one from Bonide, also available at Arbico Organics, are two viable options. Bonide Insecticidal Soap There are no organic or chemical controls available that are specific to the treatment of underground pests. Chemical Pesticides Chemical control is rarely justified with these pests. As with organic contact products, chemical contact pesticides such as pyrethroids are not very effective against them either. Systemic chemicals, those that are absorbed and translocated throughout the plant, are the most effective, as these are sucked up with the sap they feed on. However, chemical applications can actually serve to encourage insect outbreaks, as these can be toxic to beneficial insects as well. Reducing or wiping out predator populations gives the aphids a chance to reach infestation levels again. They are not choosy about pollinators either, so avoid using chemicals on plants that attract bees and other pollinators, and if you must use them as a last resort, wait until the plants have finished blooming. Beware the Plant-Eating Cotton Balls Though these insects can look like innocent bits of floating cotton, they can quickly settle into fluffy plant-sucking colonies. Not only can they cause leaf curl or stem galls, they also don’t exactly create what you’d call a desirable aesthetic on ornamental trees and shrubs. Luckily, the damage they cause is often minor, and nature provides some control to go along with your cultural and physical strategies.  Have you ever dealt with these downy insects before? Let us know down in the comments what plants they targeted, and how you controlled them! And for more information about other plant-sucking insect pests, have a read of these guides next: © Ask the Experts, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. See our TOS for more details. Originally published August 18th, 2021. Last updated April 2nd, 2025. Product photos via Arbico Organics. Uncredited photos: Shutterstock. !function(f,b,e,v,n,t,s) if(f.fbq)return;n=f.fbq=function()n.callMethod? n.callMethod.apply(n,arguments):n.queue.push(arguments); if(!f._fbq)f._fbq=n;n.push=n;n.loaded=!0;n.version='2.0'; n.queue=[];t=b.createElement(e);t.async=!0; t.src=v;s=b.getElementsByTagName(e)[0]; s.parentNode.insertBefore(t,s)(window, document,'script', ' fbq('init', '176410929431717'); fbq('track', 'PageView'); Source link

[shelyold]

Eriosomatinae Just in case there weren’t enough white waxy insects for you to tell apart already, such as scales and mealybugs, here is another fluffy type. Now introducing the shrub- and tree-loving woolly aphid, an insect that takes the waxy coating game to a whole new level. Aphids are notorious plant pests, and the fuzzy types can be just as hard to identify by species – and sometimes even harder to control – than their smooth, shiny relatives. We link to vendors to help you find relevant products. If you buy from one of our links, we may earn a commission. We’ve compiled everything you need to know about these sap-sucking pests, so you’ll know how to deal with them when they show up on your apples or landscape trees. Here’s what we’ll cover in this guide: What Are Woolly Aphids? Belonging to the Aphididae subfamily Eriosomatinae, these pests suck the sap from a variety of plants, especially trees and shrubs such as edible and ornamental apple, cotoneaster, maple, elm, alder, and beech. They feed on both underground and aboveground parts of these plants, from the roots to the twigs and leaves. Galls caused by woolly apple aphids. This causes twisted and curled leaves as well as chlorosis, or yellowing of the foliage, and may result in reduced plant vigor. Some species cause galls, which can provide entry points for fungal diseases. However, the primary negative effect of these woolly creatures is cosmetic, and their main hosts are ornamental, so infestations of white fluffy insects are not appealing. Like other sap-sucking pests, these insects exude sweet honeydew, which attracts ants, and an ugly black sooty mold can grow on stickied leaf surfaces. Identification Woolly aphids have three-millimeter-long, pear-shaped bodies that are covered in a white, waxy, fluffy coating. There are several common species to look out for on your plants. Often, the host gives the best clues to help identify what species is attacking, as the insects themselves can look quite similar. The woolly apple aphid, Eriosoma lanigerum, is a common and serious apple pest worldwide. As its name suggests, it loves apples of all types, including ornamental crabapples, but it will also feed on elm, alder, mountain ash, hawthorn, serviceberry, and pyracantha. These have bluish-black bodies under their white fluff, and they feed on the base of new shoots, branches, roots, and trunk wounds. Their feeding causes galls to form, and these cracked and swollen areas on branches – perfect entry points for diseases such as rots and canker – are the primary reason these insects are such serious pests, and why they are sometimes called American blight aphids. Eriosoma lanigerum. Woolly elm aphids, Eriosoma americanum, feed on American elm foliage in the spring, and the roots of serviceberry (also known as Saskatoon berry) as an alternate host in the summer. On elms, feeding causes the edges of new leaves to roll inwards and form a gall-like swelling where they hide out. On Saskatoon berry bushes, especially young plants, root feeding can result in stunting and reduced berry production, and the damage can be fatal. On the elm, the adult has a red-orange body with some white sticky bubbles, or it may be covered with a waxy cotton-like coating. On the serviceberry, where they are found underground, they are light blue to black, and may have some waxy fluff on their thoraxes. The woolly alder aphid, Prociphilus tessellatus, feeds on silver maple in the spring, and alder in the summer. This is the super fluffy species you may already be familiar with, and they look like pieces of cotton floating through the air when they’re flying, or fungi when they’re congregated on twigs. Even their eggs are woolly. Besides looking a little strange or even ugly on the plant, this species doesn’t cause significant damage. Large populations can cause shriveled leaves, and the honeydew they produce can make vehicles, sidewalks, and any lawn furniture positioned under the maple or alder trees sticky. But these issues aren’t usually serious enough to warrant control. Biology and Life Cycle Most of the woolly aphids have two primary hosts, which they alternate feeding and reproducing on. Often, they lay eggs on the primary host, the eggs overwinter in the cracks of bark, females hatch in the spring, and they begin to produce live offspring. They will spend a few generations feeding and reproducing, without males, on the primary host plant. A generation of winged females will fly to the secondary host soon after, and they will spend most of the rest of the season feeding and reproducing there. In the late summer or early fall, a second wave of winged females head back to the primary host, and produce a generation of males and females. These mate, and each female lays one egg that will overwinter and hatch in the spring, producing another all-female generation. Some species will hatch before winter, and spend the season as nymphs on the host plant’s roots. Females can produce hundreds of offspring during their one-month lifespan, and these offspring reach sexual maturity in four to ten days. One of my professors described this as giving birth to live, pregnant young. Thus, populations can explode very quickly. Monitoring Keeping a close eye out for these pests before their populations – and the damage they cause – gets out of control is essential for effective management. The downside is, once the damage is visible, management options are often limited or rendered ineffective. Check the undersides of leaves for woolly aphid populations. Look out for shiny, sticky honeydew and an accumulation of waxy shed skins on the upper side of leaves. They are easily mistaken for mealybugs and scale insects. But mealybugs often have tails, and both mealybugs and scales are flat while aphids are pear shaped. Often, the distinguishing feature of aphids is the two tailpipes (cornicles) on the end of their abdomens, but they are short and often covered by fluff on woolly species. Organic Control Methods Control is not often warranted, especially on mature, healthy trees and shrubs. However, infestations of certain species, especially Eriosoma lanigerum, can become serious enough to bust out the control options. If control is necessary, approach these pests with an integrated pest management (IPM) strategy, combining monitoring with cultural and biological methods for safe, effective control. Cultural and Physical Control Keep your plants healthy to achieve tolerance and minimize damage. Avoid planting one host – elm, for example – near or in the same vicinity as the other host – such as serviceberry. Try to avoid cultivation of one host in the same area where wild alternate hosts are growing as well. Physical control methods can be hard or impossible to use on tall trees, but on smaller trees and shrubs, you can use a strong stream of water from the hose or scrub infested areas with a stiff brush to dislodge colonies. Prune out and destroy heavily infested twigs and branches. These pests spread by crawling, flying, or being transported via plant material, clothing, gardening shoes, and tools, so examine new plants and clean your tools between working with infested and non-infested plants. Plant resistant varieties of common host species. For example, ‘Northern Spy’ apples are resistant to the woolly apple aphid. Biological Control Parasitic wasps are the primary enemies of these pests in general, and they can often provide adequate control of small populations. Aphelinus mali, for example, specifically targets the woolly apple aphid. Aphelinus mali hatch holes. Lacewings, ladybugs, hoverflies, and even earwigs will snack on them as well. Aphidoletes aphidimyza is a commercially available predator commonly referred to as the aphid midge that can be applied and works well in indoor settings such as greenhouses. The adults lay eggs near the aphids, and the resulting larvae prey on the pests. Aphidoletes aphidimyza Find these predators available at Arbico Organics. None of these beneficial insects will target the underground pests, however. That is a job for the nematode Steinernema carpocapsae, which will attack underground colonies. NemAttack Sc You can find these sold under the brand name NemAttack at Arbico Organics. Learn more about how to use beneficial nematodes in our guide. Organic Pesticides Using pesticides to control these insects can be difficult, thanks to their protective waxy coating. Good coverage and penetration of this fluffy coating is essential to achieve any effect with contact products, whether organic or chemical in nature. Most of the products that are effective against smooth aphid types can provide some control of the fluffy types as well, provided coverage is adequate. Monterey Horticultural Oil Horticultural oils, such as this one from Monterey that is available from Arbico Organics, and insecticidal soap products such as this one from Bonide, also available at Arbico Organics, are two viable options. Bonide Insecticidal Soap There are no organic or chemical controls available that are specific to the treatment of underground pests. Chemical Pesticides Chemical control is rarely justified with these pests. As with organic contact products, chemical contact pesticides such as pyrethroids are not very effective against them either. Systemic chemicals, those that are absorbed and translocated throughout the plant, are the most effective, as these are sucked up with the sap they feed on. However, chemical applications can actually serve to encourage insect outbreaks, as these can be toxic to beneficial insects as well. Reducing or wiping out predator populations gives the aphids a chance to reach infestation levels again. They are not choosy about pollinators either, so avoid using chemicals on plants that attract bees and other pollinators, and if you must use them as a last resort, wait until the plants have finished blooming. Beware the Plant-Eating Cotton Balls Though these insects can look like innocent bits of floating cotton, they can quickly settle into fluffy plant-sucking colonies. Not only can they cause leaf curl or stem galls, they also don’t exactly create what you’d call a desirable aesthetic on ornamental trees and shrubs. Luckily, the damage they cause is often minor, and nature provides some control to go along with your cultural and physical strategies.  Have you ever dealt with these downy insects before? Let us know down in the comments what plants they targeted, and how you controlled them! And for more information about other plant-sucking insect pests, have a read of these guides next: © Ask the Experts, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. See our TOS for more details. Originally published August 18th, 2021. Last updated April 2nd, 2025. Product photos via Arbico Organics. Uncredited photos: Shutterstock. !function(f,b,e,v,n,t,s) if(f.fbq)return;n=f.fbq=function()n.callMethod? n.callMethod.apply(n,arguments):n.queue.push(arguments); if(!f._fbq)f._fbq=n;n.push=n;n.loaded=!0;n.version='2.0'; n.queue=[];t=b.createElement(e);t.async=!0; t.src=v;s=b.getElementsByTagName(e)[0]; s.parentNode.insertBefore(t,s)(window, document,'script', ' fbq('init', '176410929431717'); fbq('track', 'PageView'); Source link

[iammeandmy]

Eriosomatinae Just in case there weren’t enough white waxy insects for you to tell apart already, such as scales and mealybugs, here is another fluffy type. Now introducing the shrub- and tree-loving woolly aphid, an insect that takes the waxy coating game to a whole new level. Aphids are notorious plant pests, and the fuzzy types can be just as hard to identify by species – and sometimes even harder to control – than their smooth, shiny relatives. We link to vendors to help you find relevant products. If you buy from one of our links, we may earn a commission. We’ve compiled everything you need to know about these sap-sucking pests, so you’ll know how to deal with them when they show up on your apples or landscape trees. Here’s what we’ll cover in this guide: What Are Woolly Aphids? Belonging to the Aphididae subfamily Eriosomatinae, these pests suck the sap from a variety of plants, especially trees and shrubs such as edible and ornamental apple, cotoneaster, maple, elm, alder, and beech. They feed on both underground and aboveground parts of these plants, from the roots to the twigs and leaves. Galls caused by woolly apple aphids. This causes twisted and curled leaves as well as chlorosis, or yellowing of the foliage, and may result in reduced plant vigor. Some species cause galls, which can provide entry points for fungal diseases. However, the primary negative effect of these woolly creatures is cosmetic, and their main hosts are ornamental, so infestations of white fluffy insects are not appealing. Like other sap-sucking pests, these insects exude sweet honeydew, which attracts ants, and an ugly black sooty mold can grow on stickied leaf surfaces. Identification Woolly aphids have three-millimeter-long, pear-shaped bodies that are covered in a white, waxy, fluffy coating. There are several common species to look out for on your plants. Often, the host gives the best clues to help identify what species is attacking, as the insects themselves can look quite similar. The woolly apple aphid, Eriosoma lanigerum, is a common and serious apple pest worldwide. As its name suggests, it loves apples of all types, including ornamental crabapples, but it will also feed on elm, alder, mountain ash, hawthorn, serviceberry, and pyracantha. These have bluish-black bodies under their white fluff, and they feed on the base of new shoots, branches, roots, and trunk wounds. Their feeding causes galls to form, and these cracked and swollen areas on branches – perfect entry points for diseases such as rots and canker – are the primary reason these insects are such serious pests, and why they are sometimes called American blight aphids. Eriosoma lanigerum. Woolly elm aphids, Eriosoma americanum, feed on American elm foliage in the spring, and the roots of serviceberry (also known as Saskatoon berry) as an alternate host in the summer. On elms, feeding causes the edges of new leaves to roll inwards and form a gall-like swelling where they hide out. On Saskatoon berry bushes, especially young plants, root feeding can result in stunting and reduced berry production, and the damage can be fatal. On the elm, the adult has a red-orange body with some white sticky bubbles, or it may be covered with a waxy cotton-like coating. On the serviceberry, where they are found underground, they are light blue to black, and may have some waxy fluff on their thoraxes. The woolly alder aphid, Prociphilus tessellatus, feeds on silver maple in the spring, and alder in the summer. This is the super fluffy species you may already be familiar with, and they look like pieces of cotton floating through the air when they’re flying, or fungi when they’re congregated on twigs. Even their eggs are woolly. Besides looking a little strange or even ugly on the plant, this species doesn’t cause significant damage. Large populations can cause shriveled leaves, and the honeydew they produce can make vehicles, sidewalks, and any lawn furniture positioned under the maple or alder trees sticky. But these issues aren’t usually serious enough to warrant control. Biology and Life Cycle Most of the woolly aphids have two primary hosts, which they alternate feeding and reproducing on. Often, they lay eggs on the primary host, the eggs overwinter in the cracks of bark, females hatch in the spring, and they begin to produce live offspring. They will spend a few generations feeding and reproducing, without males, on the primary host plant. A generation of winged females will fly to the secondary host soon after, and they will spend most of the rest of the season feeding and reproducing there. In the late summer or early fall, a second wave of winged females head back to the primary host, and produce a generation of males and females. These mate, and each female lays one egg that will overwinter and hatch in the spring, producing another all-female generation. Some species will hatch before winter, and spend the season as nymphs on the host plant’s roots. Females can produce hundreds of offspring during their one-month lifespan, and these offspring reach sexual maturity in four to ten days. One of my professors described this as giving birth to live, pregnant young. Thus, populations can explode very quickly. Monitoring Keeping a close eye out for these pests before their populations – and the damage they cause – gets out of control is essential for effective management. The downside is, once the damage is visible, management options are often limited or rendered ineffective. Check the undersides of leaves for woolly aphid populations. Look out for shiny, sticky honeydew and an accumulation of waxy shed skins on the upper side of leaves. They are easily mistaken for mealybugs and scale insects. But mealybugs often have tails, and both mealybugs and scales are flat while aphids are pear shaped. Often, the distinguishing feature of aphids is the two tailpipes (cornicles) on the end of their abdomens, but they are short and often covered by fluff on woolly species. Organic Control Methods Control is not often warranted, especially on mature, healthy trees and shrubs. However, infestations of certain species, especially Eriosoma lanigerum, can become serious enough to bust out the control options. If control is necessary, approach these pests with an integrated pest management (IPM) strategy, combining monitoring with cultural and biological methods for safe, effective control. Cultural and Physical Control Keep your plants healthy to achieve tolerance and minimize damage. Avoid planting one host – elm, for example – near or in the same vicinity as the other host – such as serviceberry. Try to avoid cultivation of one host in the same area where wild alternate hosts are growing as well. Physical control methods can be hard or impossible to use on tall trees, but on smaller trees and shrubs, you can use a strong stream of water from the hose or scrub infested areas with a stiff brush to dislodge colonies. Prune out and destroy heavily infested twigs and branches. These pests spread by crawling, flying, or being transported via plant material, clothing, gardening shoes, and tools, so examine new plants and clean your tools between working with infested and non-infested plants. Plant resistant varieties of common host species. For example, ‘Northern Spy’ apples are resistant to the woolly apple aphid. Biological Control Parasitic wasps are the primary enemies of these pests in general, and they can often provide adequate control of small populations. Aphelinus mali, for example, specifically targets the woolly apple aphid. Aphelinus mali hatch holes. Lacewings, ladybugs, hoverflies, and even earwigs will snack on them as well. Aphidoletes aphidimyza is a commercially available predator commonly referred to as the aphid midge that can be applied and works well in indoor settings such as greenhouses. The adults lay eggs near the aphids, and the resulting larvae prey on the pests. Aphidoletes aphidimyza Find these predators available at Arbico Organics. None of these beneficial insects will target the underground pests, however. That is a job for the nematode Steinernema carpocapsae, which will attack underground colonies. NemAttack Sc You can find these sold under the brand name NemAttack at Arbico Organics. Learn more about how to use beneficial nematodes in our guide. Organic Pesticides Using pesticides to control these insects can be difficult, thanks to their protective waxy coating. Good coverage and penetration of this fluffy coating is essential to achieve any effect with contact products, whether organic or chemical in nature. Most of the products that are effective against smooth aphid types can provide some control of the fluffy types as well, provided coverage is adequate. Monterey Horticultural Oil Horticultural oils, such as this one from Monterey that is available from Arbico Organics, and insecticidal soap products such as this one from Bonide, also available at Arbico Organics, are two viable options. Bonide Insecticidal Soap There are no organic or chemical controls available that are specific to the treatment of underground pests. Chemical Pesticides Chemical control is rarely justified with these pests. As with organic contact products, chemical contact pesticides such as pyrethroids are not very effective against them either. Systemic chemicals, those that are absorbed and translocated throughout the plant, are the most effective, as these are sucked up with the sap they feed on. However, chemical applications can actually serve to encourage insect outbreaks, as these can be toxic to beneficial insects as well. Reducing or wiping out predator populations gives the aphids a chance to reach infestation levels again. They are not choosy about pollinators either, so avoid using chemicals on plants that attract bees and other pollinators, and if you must use them as a last resort, wait until the plants have finished blooming. Beware the Plant-Eating Cotton Balls Though these insects can look like innocent bits of floating cotton, they can quickly settle into fluffy plant-sucking colonies. Not only can they cause leaf curl or stem galls, they also don’t exactly create what you’d call a desirable aesthetic on ornamental trees and shrubs. Luckily, the damage they cause is often minor, and nature provides some control to go along with your cultural and physical strategies.  Have you ever dealt with these downy insects before? Let us know down in the comments what plants they targeted, and how you controlled them! And for more information about other plant-sucking insect pests, have a read of these guides next: © Ask the Experts, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. See our TOS for more details. Originally published August 18th, 2021. Last updated April 2nd, 2025. Product photos via Arbico Organics. Uncredited photos: Shutterstock. !function(f,b,e,v,n,t,s) if(f.fbq)return;n=f.fbq=function()n.callMethod? n.callMethod.apply(n,arguments):n.queue.push(arguments); if(!f._fbq)f._fbq=n;n.push=n;n.loaded=!0;n.version='2.0'; n.queue=[];t=b.createElement(e);t.async=!0; t.src=v;s=b.getElementsByTagName(e)[0]; s.parentNode.insertBefore(t,s)(window, document,'script', ' fbq('init', '176410929431717'); fbq('track', 'PageView'); Source link

[januishstory]

Eriosomatinae Just in case there weren’t enough white waxy insects for you to tell apart already, such as scales and mealybugs, here is another fluffy type. Now introducing the shrub- and tree-loving woolly aphid, an insect that takes the waxy coating game to a whole new level. Aphids are notorious plant pests, and the fuzzy types can be just as hard to identify by species – and sometimes even harder to control – than their smooth, shiny relatives. We link to vendors to help you find relevant products. If you buy from one of our links, we may earn a commission. We’ve compiled everything you need to know about these sap-sucking pests, so you’ll know how to deal with them when they show up on your apples or landscape trees. Here’s what we’ll cover in this guide: What Are Woolly Aphids? Belonging to the Aphididae subfamily Eriosomatinae, these pests suck the sap from a variety of plants, especially trees and shrubs such as edible and ornamental apple, cotoneaster, maple, elm, alder, and beech. They feed on both underground and aboveground parts of these plants, from the roots to the twigs and leaves. Galls caused by woolly apple aphids. This causes twisted and curled leaves as well as chlorosis, or yellowing of the foliage, and may result in reduced plant vigor. Some species cause galls, which can provide entry points for fungal diseases. However, the primary negative effect of these woolly creatures is cosmetic, and their main hosts are ornamental, so infestations of white fluffy insects are not appealing. Like other sap-sucking pests, these insects exude sweet honeydew, which attracts ants, and an ugly black sooty mold can grow on stickied leaf surfaces. Identification Woolly aphids have three-millimeter-long, pear-shaped bodies that are covered in a white, waxy, fluffy coating. There are several common species to look out for on your plants. Often, the host gives the best clues to help identify what species is attacking, as the insects themselves can look quite similar. The woolly apple aphid, Eriosoma lanigerum, is a common and serious apple pest worldwide. As its name suggests, it loves apples of all types, including ornamental crabapples, but it will also feed on elm, alder, mountain ash, hawthorn, serviceberry, and pyracantha. These have bluish-black bodies under their white fluff, and they feed on the base of new shoots, branches, roots, and trunk wounds. Their feeding causes galls to form, and these cracked and swollen areas on branches – perfect entry points for diseases such as rots and canker – are the primary reason these insects are such serious pests, and why they are sometimes called American blight aphids. Eriosoma lanigerum. Woolly elm aphids, Eriosoma americanum, feed on American elm foliage in the spring, and the roots of serviceberry (also known as Saskatoon berry) as an alternate host in the summer. On elms, feeding causes the edges of new leaves to roll inwards and form a gall-like swelling where they hide out. On Saskatoon berry bushes, especially young plants, root feeding can result in stunting and reduced berry production, and the damage can be fatal. On the elm, the adult has a red-orange body with some white sticky bubbles, or it may be covered with a waxy cotton-like coating. On the serviceberry, where they are found underground, they are light blue to black, and may have some waxy fluff on their thoraxes. The woolly alder aphid, Prociphilus tessellatus, feeds on silver maple in the spring, and alder in the summer. This is the super fluffy species you may already be familiar with, and they look like pieces of cotton floating through the air when they’re flying, or fungi when they’re congregated on twigs. Even their eggs are woolly. Besides looking a little strange or even ugly on the plant, this species doesn’t cause significant damage. Large populations can cause shriveled leaves, and the honeydew they produce can make vehicles, sidewalks, and any lawn furniture positioned under the maple or alder trees sticky. But these issues aren’t usually serious enough to warrant control. Biology and Life Cycle Most of the woolly aphids have two primary hosts, which they alternate feeding and reproducing on. Often, they lay eggs on the primary host, the eggs overwinter in the cracks of bark, females hatch in the spring, and they begin to produce live offspring. They will spend a few generations feeding and reproducing, without males, on the primary host plant. A generation of winged females will fly to the secondary host soon after, and they will spend most of the rest of the season feeding and reproducing there. In the late summer or early fall, a second wave of winged females head back to the primary host, and produce a generation of males and females. These mate, and each female lays one egg that will overwinter and hatch in the spring, producing another all-female generation. Some species will hatch before winter, and spend the season as nymphs on the host plant’s roots. Females can produce hundreds of offspring during their one-month lifespan, and these offspring reach sexual maturity in four to ten days. One of my professors described this as giving birth to live, pregnant young. Thus, populations can explode very quickly. Monitoring Keeping a close eye out for these pests before their populations – and the damage they cause – gets out of control is essential for effective management. The downside is, once the damage is visible, management options are often limited or rendered ineffective. Check the undersides of leaves for woolly aphid populations. Look out for shiny, sticky honeydew and an accumulation of waxy shed skins on the upper side of leaves. They are easily mistaken for mealybugs and scale insects. But mealybugs often have tails, and both mealybugs and scales are flat while aphids are pear shaped. Often, the distinguishing feature of aphids is the two tailpipes (cornicles) on the end of their abdomens, but they are short and often covered by fluff on woolly species. Organic Control Methods Control is not often warranted, especially on mature, healthy trees and shrubs. However, infestations of certain species, especially Eriosoma lanigerum, can become serious enough to bust out the control options. If control is necessary, approach these pests with an integrated pest management (IPM) strategy, combining monitoring with cultural and biological methods for safe, effective control. Cultural and Physical Control Keep your plants healthy to achieve tolerance and minimize damage. Avoid planting one host – elm, for example – near or in the same vicinity as the other host – such as serviceberry. Try to avoid cultivation of one host in the same area where wild alternate hosts are growing as well. Physical control methods can be hard or impossible to use on tall trees, but on smaller trees and shrubs, you can use a strong stream of water from the hose or scrub infested areas with a stiff brush to dislodge colonies. Prune out and destroy heavily infested twigs and branches. These pests spread by crawling, flying, or being transported via plant material, clothing, gardening shoes, and tools, so examine new plants and clean your tools between working with infested and non-infested plants. Plant resistant varieties of common host species. For example, ‘Northern Spy’ apples are resistant to the woolly apple aphid. Biological Control Parasitic wasps are the primary enemies of these pests in general, and they can often provide adequate control of small populations. Aphelinus mali, for example, specifically targets the woolly apple aphid. Aphelinus mali hatch holes. Lacewings, ladybugs, hoverflies, and even earwigs will snack on them as well. Aphidoletes aphidimyza is a commercially available predator commonly referred to as the aphid midge that can be applied and works well in indoor settings such as greenhouses. The adults lay eggs near the aphids, and the resulting larvae prey on the pests. Aphidoletes aphidimyza Find these predators available at Arbico Organics. None of these beneficial insects will target the underground pests, however. That is a job for the nematode Steinernema carpocapsae, which will attack underground colonies. NemAttack Sc You can find these sold under the brand name NemAttack at Arbico Organics. Learn more about how to use beneficial nematodes in our guide. Organic Pesticides Using pesticides to control these insects can be difficult, thanks to their protective waxy coating. Good coverage and penetration of this fluffy coating is essential to achieve any effect with contact products, whether organic or chemical in nature. Most of the products that are effective against smooth aphid types can provide some control of the fluffy types as well, provided coverage is adequate. Monterey Horticultural Oil Horticultural oils, such as this one from Monterey that is available from Arbico Organics, and insecticidal soap products such as this one from Bonide, also available at Arbico Organics, are two viable options. Bonide Insecticidal Soap There are no organic or chemical controls available that are specific to the treatment of underground pests. Chemical Pesticides Chemical control is rarely justified with these pests. As with organic contact products, chemical contact pesticides such as pyrethroids are not very effective against them either. Systemic chemicals, those that are absorbed and translocated throughout the plant, are the most effective, as these are sucked up with the sap they feed on. However, chemical applications can actually serve to encourage insect outbreaks, as these can be toxic to beneficial insects as well. Reducing or wiping out predator populations gives the aphids a chance to reach infestation levels again. They are not choosy about pollinators either, so avoid using chemicals on plants that attract bees and other pollinators, and if you must use them as a last resort, wait until the plants have finished blooming. Beware the Plant-Eating Cotton Balls Though these insects can look like innocent bits of floating cotton, they can quickly settle into fluffy plant-sucking colonies. Not only can they cause leaf curl or stem galls, they also don’t exactly create what you’d call a desirable aesthetic on ornamental trees and shrubs. Luckily, the damage they cause is often minor, and nature provides some control to go along with your cultural and physical strategies.  Have you ever dealt with these downy insects before? Let us know down in the comments what plants they targeted, and how you controlled them! And for more information about other plant-sucking insect pests, have a read of these guides next: © Ask the Experts, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. See our TOS for more details. Originally published August 18th, 2021. Last updated April 2nd, 2025. Product photos via Arbico Organics. Uncredited photos: Shutterstock. !function(f,b,e,v,n,t,s) if(f.fbq)return;n=f.fbq=function()n.callMethod? n.callMethod.apply(n,arguments):n.queue.push(arguments); if(!f._fbq)f._fbq=n;n.push=n;n.loaded=!0;n.version='2.0'; n.queue=[];t=b.createElement(e);t.async=!0; t.src=v;s=b.getElementsByTagName(e)[0]; s.parentNode.insertBefore(t,s)(window, document,'script', ' fbq('init', '176410929431717'); fbq('track', 'PageView'); Source link

[drew-mga2022mi6014]

Research | Common Methods of Pest Control

The Effect Deck system that I proposed is used as a means to deal damage to enemies, and to activate a given Plant's passive ability. In order to enrich player experience and further tie into the real life actions taken during gardening, I decided that it may bode well to create each effect card based on an actual method of pest control in the garden. These would mostly be organic, with a few chemical methods sprinkled in for variety.

Spray Bottles

Spraying water or insecticidal soap is an effective way of dispersing infestations of aphids from plants. However Ladybug larvae and lacewings (beneficial insects) can help bring aphids under control. Keep in mind that any method used to control or destroy the aphids will also affect the beneficial insects that feed on them.

Neem Oil

One of the main methods of pest control is the use of organic pesticides such as oil from the Indian Neem Tree (Kohomba).  It is yellow to brown, has a bitter taste, and a garlic/sulfur smell. It has been used for hundreds of years to control pests and diseases.

This extract from the seeds of the tree is nontoxic to pets and humans, but helps control some of the worst pests, such as Japanese beetles. Instead of killing the adults outright, it acts as a deterrent, stopping insects from eating and mating.

Ashing

Ashes can repel pests in several ways. First, the fine particles in ashes can dry out and irritate the soft bodies of insects, making it difficult for them to move and feed. This is particularly effective against soft-bodied insects like slugs and snails, which can cause significant damage to crops. Second, ashes contain compounds that are toxic to certain pests. For example, wood ashes contain potassium salts, which can repel and kill aphids, mites, and other small insects. The alkaline nature of ashes also makes it difficult for some insects to breathe, which can cause them to suffocate.

To use ashes as a pest control method, sprinkle a thin layer of ashes around the base of plants or on the soil surface. It’s important to use ashes sparingly and avoid direct contact with plant leaves or stems, as this can cause damage or burns. Additionally, ashes should not be used on plants that are sensitive to alkaline soil conditions, as it can affect their growth and health. The best time to apply ashes is early in the morning when the soil is damp, as this will help the ashes adhere to the soil and reduce the risk of it being blown away by the wind.

Ashes can also improve soil fertility in several ways. Firstly, they contain essential plant nutrients such as potassium, calcium, magnesium, and phosphorus, which are essential for plant growth. These nutrients are released slowly over time, providing a long-term source of nutrition for plants.

When it comes to using wood ashes in gardening, the type of wood that the ashes come from can make a difference in their benefits for plants. Generally, hardwoods like oak, maple, ash, and beech produce ashes that are high in nutrients such as potassium, calcium, and magnesium, which are essential for plant growth. These nutrients can help improve soil fertility and enhance plant growth, leading to healthier and more productive plants.

On the other hand, softwoods like pine, fir, and spruce produce ashes that are lower in nutrients compared to hardwood ashes. Softwood ashes can also be more acidic and contain higher levels of toxic compounds, which can be harmful to some plants. Therefore, when using wood ashes as a soil amendment for your plants, it’s best to use hardwood ashes, as they provide more benefits and fewer potential drawbacks. However, it’s important to remember that wood ashes should be used sparingly, as too much can lead to an imbalance of soil nutrients and affect plant growth. It’s also essential to test the soil pH regularly and adjust the amount of ashes added accordingly.

Insect Traps

Trapping comes in many varieties, and most are homemade. They are an easy and effective way to keep pests from infesting plants. The main type of trap is an attractant-type pest trap.

Attractant-type pest trap : Lure pests in using light, food, shape, color, or smell. A moth trap might lure various species of moths into the traps by using mating pheromones, while a stink bug might be attracted to a dark cylindrical trap that looks like a tree trunk. These can further be divided into the following.

Chromatic Traps : Rigid and resistant plastic plates, and adhesive on both sides. They necessarily have to be water repellent, that do not deteriorate with high temperatures and that do not contain toxic substances. Pheromone Traps : They use a synthetic attractant that simulates the natural pheromone emitted by females to attract males (by attracting only males, it does not increase the risk of oviposition). Delta Traps : Generally used for monitoring populations, their arrival and evolution. They basically consist of a pheromone diffuser placed on a horizontal and sticky sheet, covered by a roof. They are NOT used to make mass captures of insects. Water Traps : The pheromone diffuser is placed in the center of a sheet of water, so that when the moth touches the water it can no longer take flight. Transparent Traps : Placed in strips and usually used in greenhouses, they are sticky and contain the selected pheromones. Light Traps : Tend to attract females more than males. Traps placed close to the ground trap a larger number of males, while raised traps trap a larger number of females. Light traps have a high cost and maintenance. But their biggest problem is that they are not very selective, eliminating pest insects as well as auxiliary fauna. Other : There exist other more specific traps that can be made to capture specific species of insects, such as fruit flies, snails, moths, aphids, silverfish, beetles, ants, cutworms, and mealybugs.

The best thing about these homemade pest traps is that they’re all-natural. These traps are made with materials already present at home and can also be used indoors or outdoors.

Netting

Insect netting is used in agriculture to protect crops from insect pests. The netting is made from high-density polyethylene (HDPE) and comes in different mesh sizes. The netting is designed to create a physical barrier that prevents insects from accessing crops.

Insect netting effectively controls insects such as aphids, thrips, and whiteflies. The netting is easy to install and can be supported by poles or wires. It is also lightweight and durable, making it ideal for long-term use. The benefits of using insect netting include the reduction of insect damage to crops, the prevention of insect-borne diseases, and the reduction of pesticide use. Insect netting is also environmentally friendly and can be used in agroecosystems to protect crops from insect damage.

There exist other types of nets, such as those used to prevent damage from birds, and more specific species of insects such as codling moth and Drosophila suzukii.

While netting solutions can be effective in reducing pesticide usage and preventing the spread of diseases, they can also have negative impacts on wildlife and ecosystems. For example, bird populations may be negatively affected by the use of netting, as they can become trapped or entangled in the netting. Similarly, netting can also impact species richness and biodiversity by altering the natural habitat of insects and other small animals. To mitigate these negative impacts, it is important to carefully consider the type of netting used and its placement. For example, using a fine mesh netting can reduce the likelihood of birds becoming trapped, while also providing effective pest control. Additionally, netting can be removed during the flowering period to allow pollinators to access the crops.

Biological Controls

Biological controls employ methods for controlling pests using other organisms, such as predatory insects, or plants, and have very few drawbacks compared to chemicals. Species diversity amongst the landscape can provide many beneficial returns to a home ecosystem. Several predatory and beneficial insects are drawn to the home landscape when species abundance is prevalent. They can be segregated as follows;

Trap Crops : A sacrificial crop used to attract insect pests to their locations instead of feeding on cash crops. There are two basic ways to use trap crops: same species and different species. An example of same species trap crops includes the use of Blue Hubbard Squash (Cucurbita maxima) as a sacrificial crop established around the perimeter of cucurbit cash crops to prevent the invasion of squash vine borer (Melittia cucurbitae). An example of different species trap crops includes the use of sunflowers (Helianthus annuus) to attract leaf-footed bugs (Leptoglossus spp.) away from your tomatoes.

Antagonists : Biological control agents of plant diseases are more often referred to as "antagonists". Antagonists are beneficial microbes that inoculate plant surfaces through several methods. Growers may apply antagonists as a foliar spray or soil drench from store-bought products. Bacillus subtilis is a naturally occurring bacterium found in soil and the gastrointestinal tracts of cattle and humans, and has shown great promise in controlling diseases like powdery mildew. These organisms are not harmful to humans, however some antagonists, such as the aizawai strain of Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), have been shown to kill beneficial insects like bees. Conversely, B. thuringiensis var kurstaki is an important strain for combatting caterpillars and beetles. Growers are encouraged to use these products as a natural method for controlling pathogens, but should exercise due diligence towards the research of application methods and negative effects that may arise from their implementation.

Chemical Pesticides

Chemical controls are the last option when fighting pests. Chemical control options are varied in their application method and their capacity to alleviate pests. People often use the term "pesticide" to refer only to insecticides, but it actually applies to all the substances used to control pests. However, the use of chemical pesticides could cause severe detriment to a garden, as it would not just kill off harmful organisms but beneficial ones as well. Additionally, chemical pesticides are shown to reduce plant resilience over time, in a manner similar to addiction. Over time, the plant becomes reliant on the chemical, and a lack of that chemical can cause a gradual decline of health. As such, it is recommended that if chemical pesticides are being used, instructions should be followed down to a science.

With this knowledge of these different methods of deterring pests in the garden, I can use these elements to create several of the Effect Cards that I want to incorporate in my game. However, the Effect Deck does not just encapsulate these methods, and may include more quality of life effects that are more in line with active gameplay in order to keep combat interesting. Furthermore, there is another subsection of cards that I want to incorporate in this deck that are indicative of weather, and would act differently to other cards in this deck.