#beech aphids

[hepdenerose]

Pulsating June

Phil’s work schedule and an upcoming Blackpool trip meant a cloudy mid-June Wednesday was our only chance to see Nutclough’s wild irises. Close to midsummer, life pulsated from the off. Bees swarmed in hedgerows blossoming with brambles on Hangingroyd Road. Fading dogroses exuded heady scents at the top of the close. Translucent linden leaves overhung The Buttress. We waited for a woman wheeling…

[girinma]

went out for Mawile raid day and also saw this fantastic pocket monster… the beech blight aphid

[aisling-saoirse]

Fagus Grandifolia - American Beech

The American beech is an incredibly distinct and beautiful tree. Found in Forests East-of-the-Mississippi from the southern-most regions of Canada to Louisiana (with an alleged subspecies found in Mexico). The American Beech serves an interesting habitat niche typically growing in complete shade, outdated terminology in ecological sciences refered to beech (and maple) as a climax forest species, meaning they are able to outcompete any other sapling in full shade of mature woodlands. Any decent scientist interested in ecology will reject the concept of climax species as nature does not reach a state of stability/equilibrium.

The bark itself is very thin and tight with few fissures, and extremely smooth in appearance. The tree is popular amoung disrespectful hikers as a point to carve names into the bark (which, yes, damages the tree), one can often find initials ripped into the trunk. Beech are extremely sensitive to draught, it is a moisture loving species with very shallow roots, images above are taken in a draught year. The trees hold their leaves in wintertime, its not uncommon to see ghostly orange and white leaves rusting in the winter winds. The trees also produce a large husk (forming on the last image) which contains 4 pod shaped nuts, these are edible and allegedly sweet (I've never eaten them as I always find them too late).

The horrible condition of the leaves I'm showing are indicators of disease, like other notable American trees, introduced species/diseases from abroad are quickly wiping them out (scaly bark fungus, beech leaf wilt, aphids). The added stress of the draught is making them less resistant to fighting these issues. I made this post today because I noticed about all of the Beech I encountered in New Jersey and Pennsylvania were in extremely poor or dying states. This is after years of watching them fight disease, the second year of climate change induced draughts appear to have done them in. Sad to see them go if such is their fate.

[drew-mga2022mi6014]

Research | Common Methods of Pest Control

The Effect Deck system that I proposed is used as a means to deal damage to enemies, and to activate a given Plant's passive ability. In order to enrich player experience and further tie into the real life actions taken during gardening, I decided that it may bode well to create each effect card based on an actual method of pest control in the garden. These would mostly be organic, with a few chemical methods sprinkled in for variety.

Spray Bottles

Spraying water or insecticidal soap is an effective way of dispersing infestations of aphids from plants. However Ladybug larvae and lacewings (beneficial insects) can help bring aphids under control. Keep in mind that any method used to control or destroy the aphids will also affect the beneficial insects that feed on them.

Neem Oil

One of the main methods of pest control is the use of organic pesticides such as oil from the Indian Neem Tree (Kohomba).  It is yellow to brown, has a bitter taste, and a garlic/sulfur smell. It has been used for hundreds of years to control pests and diseases.

This extract from the seeds of the tree is nontoxic to pets and humans, but helps control some of the worst pests, such as Japanese beetles. Instead of killing the adults outright, it acts as a deterrent, stopping insects from eating and mating.

Ashing

Ashes can repel pests in several ways. First, the fine particles in ashes can dry out and irritate the soft bodies of insects, making it difficult for them to move and feed. This is particularly effective against soft-bodied insects like slugs and snails, which can cause significant damage to crops. Second, ashes contain compounds that are toxic to certain pests. For example, wood ashes contain potassium salts, which can repel and kill aphids, mites, and other small insects. The alkaline nature of ashes also makes it difficult for some insects to breathe, which can cause them to suffocate.

To use ashes as a pest control method, sprinkle a thin layer of ashes around the base of plants or on the soil surface. It’s important to use ashes sparingly and avoid direct contact with plant leaves or stems, as this can cause damage or burns. Additionally, ashes should not be used on plants that are sensitive to alkaline soil conditions, as it can affect their growth and health. The best time to apply ashes is early in the morning when the soil is damp, as this will help the ashes adhere to the soil and reduce the risk of it being blown away by the wind.

Ashes can also improve soil fertility in several ways. Firstly, they contain essential plant nutrients such as potassium, calcium, magnesium, and phosphorus, which are essential for plant growth. These nutrients are released slowly over time, providing a long-term source of nutrition for plants.

When it comes to using wood ashes in gardening, the type of wood that the ashes come from can make a difference in their benefits for plants. Generally, hardwoods like oak, maple, ash, and beech produce ashes that are high in nutrients such as potassium, calcium, and magnesium, which are essential for plant growth. These nutrients can help improve soil fertility and enhance plant growth, leading to healthier and more productive plants.

On the other hand, softwoods like pine, fir, and spruce produce ashes that are lower in nutrients compared to hardwood ashes. Softwood ashes can also be more acidic and contain higher levels of toxic compounds, which can be harmful to some plants. Therefore, when using wood ashes as a soil amendment for your plants, it’s best to use hardwood ashes, as they provide more benefits and fewer potential drawbacks. However, it’s important to remember that wood ashes should be used sparingly, as too much can lead to an imbalance of soil nutrients and affect plant growth. It’s also essential to test the soil pH regularly and adjust the amount of ashes added accordingly.

Insect Traps

Trapping comes in many varieties, and most are homemade. They are an easy and effective way to keep pests from infesting plants. The main type of trap is an attractant-type pest trap.

Attractant-type pest trap : Lure pests in using light, food, shape, color, or smell. A moth trap might lure various species of moths into the traps by using mating pheromones, while a stink bug might be attracted to a dark cylindrical trap that looks like a tree trunk. These can further be divided into the following.

Chromatic Traps : Rigid and resistant plastic plates, and adhesive on both sides. They necessarily have to be water repellent, that do not deteriorate with high temperatures and that do not contain toxic substances. Pheromone Traps : They use a synthetic attractant that simulates the natural pheromone emitted by females to attract males (by attracting only males, it does not increase the risk of oviposition). Delta Traps : Generally used for monitoring populations, their arrival and evolution. They basically consist of a pheromone diffuser placed on a horizontal and sticky sheet, covered by a roof. They are NOT used to make mass captures of insects. Water Traps : The pheromone diffuser is placed in the center of a sheet of water, so that when the moth touches the water it can no longer take flight. Transparent Traps : Placed in strips and usually used in greenhouses, they are sticky and contain the selected pheromones. Light Traps : Tend to attract females more than males. Traps placed close to the ground trap a larger number of males, while raised traps trap a larger number of females. Light traps have a high cost and maintenance. But their biggest problem is that they are not very selective, eliminating pest insects as well as auxiliary fauna. Other : There exist other more specific traps that can be made to capture specific species of insects, such as fruit flies, snails, moths, aphids, silverfish, beetles, ants, cutworms, and mealybugs.

The best thing about these homemade pest traps is that they’re all-natural. These traps are made with materials already present at home and can also be used indoors or outdoors.

Netting

Insect netting is used in agriculture to protect crops from insect pests. The netting is made from high-density polyethylene (HDPE) and comes in different mesh sizes. The netting is designed to create a physical barrier that prevents insects from accessing crops.

Insect netting effectively controls insects such as aphids, thrips, and whiteflies. The netting is easy to install and can be supported by poles or wires. It is also lightweight and durable, making it ideal for long-term use. The benefits of using insect netting include the reduction of insect damage to crops, the prevention of insect-borne diseases, and the reduction of pesticide use. Insect netting is also environmentally friendly and can be used in agroecosystems to protect crops from insect damage.

There exist other types of nets, such as those used to prevent damage from birds, and more specific species of insects such as codling moth and Drosophila suzukii.

While netting solutions can be effective in reducing pesticide usage and preventing the spread of diseases, they can also have negative impacts on wildlife and ecosystems. For example, bird populations may be negatively affected by the use of netting, as they can become trapped or entangled in the netting. Similarly, netting can also impact species richness and biodiversity by altering the natural habitat of insects and other small animals. To mitigate these negative impacts, it is important to carefully consider the type of netting used and its placement. For example, using a fine mesh netting can reduce the likelihood of birds becoming trapped, while also providing effective pest control. Additionally, netting can be removed during the flowering period to allow pollinators to access the crops.

Biological Controls

Biological controls employ methods for controlling pests using other organisms, such as predatory insects, or plants, and have very few drawbacks compared to chemicals. Species diversity amongst the landscape can provide many beneficial returns to a home ecosystem. Several predatory and beneficial insects are drawn to the home landscape when species abundance is prevalent. They can be segregated as follows;

Trap Crops : A sacrificial crop used to attract insect pests to their locations instead of feeding on cash crops. There are two basic ways to use trap crops: same species and different species. An example of same species trap crops includes the use of Blue Hubbard Squash (Cucurbita maxima) as a sacrificial crop established around the perimeter of cucurbit cash crops to prevent the invasion of squash vine borer (Melittia cucurbitae). An example of different species trap crops includes the use of sunflowers (Helianthus annuus) to attract leaf-footed bugs (Leptoglossus spp.) away from your tomatoes.

Antagonists : Biological control agents of plant diseases are more often referred to as "antagonists". Antagonists are beneficial microbes that inoculate plant surfaces through several methods. Growers may apply antagonists as a foliar spray or soil drench from store-bought products. Bacillus subtilis is a naturally occurring bacterium found in soil and the gastrointestinal tracts of cattle and humans, and has shown great promise in controlling diseases like powdery mildew. These organisms are not harmful to humans, however some antagonists, such as the aizawai strain of Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), have been shown to kill beneficial insects like bees. Conversely, B. thuringiensis var kurstaki is an important strain for combatting caterpillars and beetles. Growers are encouraged to use these products as a natural method for controlling pathogens, but should exercise due diligence towards the research of application methods and negative effects that may arise from their implementation.

Chemical Pesticides

Chemical controls are the last option when fighting pests. Chemical control options are varied in their application method and their capacity to alleviate pests. People often use the term "pesticide" to refer only to insecticides, but it actually applies to all the substances used to control pests. However, the use of chemical pesticides could cause severe detriment to a garden, as it would not just kill off harmful organisms but beneficial ones as well. Additionally, chemical pesticides are shown to reduce plant resilience over time, in a manner similar to addiction. Over time, the plant becomes reliant on the chemical, and a lack of that chemical can cause a gradual decline of health. As such, it is recommended that if chemical pesticides are being used, instructions should be followed down to a science.

With this knowledge of these different methods of deterring pests in the garden, I can use these elements to create several of the Effect Cards that I want to incorporate in my game. However, the Effect Deck does not just encapsulate these methods, and may include more quality of life effects that are more in line with active gameplay in order to keep combat interesting. Furthermore, there is another subsection of cards that I want to incorporate in this deck that are indicative of weather, and would act differently to other cards in this deck.

[cilantroodon]

[description: three gifs of beech blight aphids moving along branches and the ground. end description.]

beech blight aphids

[carnegiemuseumnaturalhistory]

Boogie Woogie Aphids

by John Wenzel

Aphids are usually small wingless insects that suck sap from plants, usually specializing on one kind of plant. Many species can reproduce rapidly by parthenogenesis, where females give live birth to daughters without mating. They can build up great numbers quickly, which is why aphids are often pests of crop plants. In late summer or early autumn, populations are about as large as they are going to get, and soon a generation of both male and females that has wings is produced. These will disperse and mate before winter comes. The winged females will lay eggs that last over winter to start the cycle again in the spring. In our area, one amusing species is the beech blight aphid (Grylloprociphilus imbricator) that feeds on beech trees. The aphid produces from its abdomen profuse wax fibers that give it a woolly appearance. In the photo shown here, the aphid itself is just a small brown dot at one end of the white fluffy wax mass. The wax is essentially a shield, and a predator that bites into the woolly floss will come away with nothing but wax. These aphids have a defensive behavior of waving their abdomens and the wax shield when they are disturbed, as you can see in this video of dancing aphids. 

Because sap has far more sugar than nutrients, aphids need to get rid of the sugar by excreting it in the form of honeydew. Under a mass of aphids like that shown here, the honeydew will accumulate on the branches or the ground below the aphid colony and will attract flies, bees, wasps, and other insects seeking the sweet liquid. There is a black sooty mold (Scorius spongiosa) that grows only on the honeydew of beech aphids, and can build up a large mass. Neither the aphids nor the mold are detrimental to beech trees, so there is no need to try to exterminate either of them. If they are considered a nuisance by a homeowner, it is easy to wash the aphids off the branches with a hose.

John Wenzel is the Director at Powdermill Nature Reserve, Carnegie Museum of Natural History’s environmental research center. Museum employees are encouraged to blog about their unique experiences and knowledge gained from working at the museum.

[my-name-is-not-victoria]

Fun dance party? Nope!

These are beach blight aphids (aka “Boogie-Woogie” aphids) and those fabulous moves are actually a defense mechanism meant to scare off prospective predators. (In this case me!)

Dance for your lives, you funky little dudes!

[werspicey]

Honeydew from beech blight aphids

[cricketchirp]

Laughing At The Notch

Laughing At The Notch

The word went out last night: “Trails aren’t perfect but much better than they were! We need a few people to snowshoe Moose Alley so I can get the snowmobile up there. Jim is going to snowshoe some tomorrow and the more it is packed down the sooner I can groom up there. 😁 Both bridges are done. Still waiting on the snow roller.” Nothing like a challenge and so I immediately contacted a few peeps…

[grubloved]

big garden day journal

planted the paintbrushes by the pond :)

weeded out invasives from the wildflower bed

treated tiny pond for squitos

weeded second garden bed

got the pea fence halfway up (need to find staple gun)

cleared circles around all 6 fruit trees and mulched them

made and hung a mealworm feeder!

nematode treatment-ed the peach, plum, nectarine, and cherry

took mochi outside with me :)

hung out in the hammock :)

other news:

met a new species of jumping spider! didnt get a pic

theres fuzzy beech aphids on my beech tree and they are VERY good and cute

saw 392849 ladybugs and the largest centipede ive ever seen while mulching the fruit trees

SAWFLY :D

the iris has two buds!

there is ONE wildflower blooming. i also didnt take a pic but i love her

nectarine has borers again :(

GRAPE BUDS!!!!!!

carrots have sprouted!

baby lily pads 😭

the lesser goldfinches have acclimated to me and came to the big feeder even when i was in the hammock right next to it :D

[birdstudies]

December 4, 2019 - Middle Spotted Woodpecker (Leiopicus medius or Dendrocopos medius)

Found in much of Europe and parts of southwest Asia, these woodpeckers live primarily in mature deciduous forests with oak, hornbeam, and beech trees. They feed on a variety of arthropods, including caterpillars, aphids, beetles, and ants, along with some plant foods. Pairs excavate nest cavities together in tree trunks or branches.

[rjb5423]

The “Boogie-Woogie” aphids. I meant to upload this video rather then the photo from my previous post. Beech Blight Aphids. https://www.instagram.com/p/CF5e8K3jRku/?igshid=itnpahl5e8dz

[aisphotostuff]

Bough Beech Nature Reserve Kent by Adam Swaine Via Flickr: Corncockle Wildflower Flowers -Agrostemma githago..corn pink and purple cockle...and Hoverflies..Hoverflies are a vital and colourful part of a healthy garden. They are brilliant pollinators that are often overlooked. The larvae of many species feed on aphids while others are efficient nutrient recyclers, making a valuable contribution to a natural balance in gardens. Sow this tall annual plant in your meadow or wildflower garden and enjoy its attractive, pinkish purple, trumpet-shaped blooms all summer. Corncockle looks best in the company of other cornfield annuals: cornflower, poppy, corn chamomile and corn marigold.

[hortascountrysidenotes]

Friend or Foe

It is always a constant battle in the garden deciding how to deal with the various elements of the natural world that can so easily tip the balance between success and failure.  As we all (well not all sadly but more than in the past) move towards being more tolerant of bugs and beasties that back in the  day of Percy Thrower were considered THE ENEMY, and we don’t obliterate every wildflower (WEED) in the margins it makes trying to produce quality veg and flowers that little bit more difficult and we must expect a higher degree of failure every now and then due to some critter sneaking about (usually in the night).

As regular readers of Horta will know, there has been an ongoing saga with Moriarty - a mole of considerable substance and intelligence.  I am not sure of the lifespan of a mole but for the last eighteen months I have been stalking Moriarty from veg patch, to rose arch, to border under the roses and finally on to the lawn itself.  I have set traps, put dog poo down the holes, moved the traps, watched while he digs and plunged in with my spade and every move I have made he has countered with another hill or uprooted plant somewhere else in his maze of underground tunnels.  During lockdown therefore I have upped the level - every time he has dug a fresh mound I have traced back from the mound to find “the run” - each time I have set my trap with meticulous care - gloves, a large rhubarb leaf over the top to stop the internal avalanche of soil and a bucket to finish.  Every day I have looked out from the bedroom window to see a fresh little hill dug to the side of the bucket, and I have envisaged a flag on top with two fingers pointing straight at me.  With my trusty moleteer Scouty I had to up the game yet again and went for the two pronged attack - Scout who is clearly a cousin of Grommit did some quick geometry on her little slate board and we set one trap along the edge of the broad beans and one back on the lawn but further back down “the run”. This said Scout, was a sure fire way to get success as while Moriarty was scuttling away from the broad beans determined to wreak havoc on the lawn, he will not have taken into account that we would move the trap to a completely as yet undisturbed by us, section of “the run”.  RIP MORIARTY and bravo to the Moleteer.  Now of course the question is, will another one reappear this week - Mrs Moriarty.  I did feel rather sad but there is a palpable sense of relief.

The next foe on the horizon, but one that could be deemed a friend like Moriarty if in the right place are ants.  Ants can be friends as per the video attached at the end - they do eat aphids in quantity, and they do provide a valuable part of the green woodpeckers diet.  However when under newly sown seeds they are a menace as they seem to eat the seeds before they have even had a chance to germinate, and definitely eat the roots of young seedlings - spinach and beetroot being the biggest casualties, so much so that I am now sowing beetroot in modules and transplanting them.  They also make huge nests from time to time around the roots of plants and you see the soil piling higher and higher up the stems of plants which eventually die.  This makes life difficult so a compromise has to be reached - I am trying ant powder along the drills before sowing seed and will report if it has worked.

The lily beetles are definitely in the category of Foe - but I can report that the soft soap treatment does work and interestingly all lilies sprayed with that a fortnight ago have kept clear, whereas one group I left out are covered in the little blighters who are now cheerfully mating.  Its a coffee break activity to see how many I can get before they get suspicious!

The big Foes - deer and rabbit are currently quiet - the siting of two garden chairs with rustly bin liners over them is enough to keep deer away and although there is evidence of rabbit nothing too drastic is happening.

The rains came and the difference has been huge with the borders and trees changing almost visibly.  The trees are at that beautiful stage of young leaf colours - copper beech being amongst the most stunning.  The perennials in the borders have clumped up and the grass looks much better.  The cows are due out on the common in the next fortnight and they will have something to eat!  I have put some new bits and pieces in now that the ground is soft again - some Achillea x Schwellenberg, Liatris Floristan white, and Tricyrtis formosana - the toad lily.  The Achillea have a soft grey leaf and I have put several along the middle to front section of the hotter of the two borders - yellow flowers all summer which I think will make good pin pricks of brightness.  The Liatris is normally found in its mauve form, but is a tall bottle brush type flower and a classic of the prairie planting style.  The toad lilies love semi shade and form lovely clumps of mottled foliage above which sprays of small lily type flowers appear late summer - so a useful plant and under used.  I have also ordered some replacement grasses - last year I planted five Calamagrostis x acutiflora Overdam which is a beautiful variegated grass with good strong upright flowers late summer .  Sadly although they all made it through such a wet winter, only one plant has really thrived, but I have found a new version of this grass through a grower south of Norwich - called Avalanche rather than Overdam it is meant to be much more reliable - I hope they will arrive this week and I shall just plant them alongside the Overdams as they are so similar.  

In the veg patch apart from the ant problem all is good - the final lot of broadies went out after the rain, asparagus keeps coming, the old spinach is now bolting but just still usable, and all the new salads are doing very well.  The tomato plants are nearly big enough to set into position and the courgette plants are strong and ready once risk of frost has passed.  I have emptied the hyacinth bulbs and stored them to be put back in the garden in September.  Into those pots I have put back the Salvia Hot Lips and Agapanthus which I used last year.  The next thing will be changing the tulip containers to summer bedding - always rather a long job and I think in the nick of time we shall be allowed to go to garden centres.  Although I have plenty of homegrown lobelia and Verbenas, I would like a different colour geranium as we have had the same old pink ones for years, and I do love the variegated helichrysums! I am having a slight war on Alliums too, as much as I love both Purple Sensation and christophii they do seed too freely and we have a small forest in places!  The leaves do look awful if there are too many so I am reducing them whenever I have another plant to go in their place.

So much going on in the natural world at this time of year, still waiting for swifts, wondering if our house sparrow population has taken a dive due to the upsurge in starlings now nesting in the roof and countless things filling the days of lockdown! So keep cheerful everyone and make sure you can be counted amongst those who as life kicks off again,  help to make changes for the better rather than slipping back into some of the bad old ways.

HORTA

[wedontneedfeatherstofly]

Beech Blight Aphids - Grylloprociphilus imbricator

[lemonpixycat]

HI, EXCUSE ME? SORRY?????? WAS NO ONE GOING TO TELL ME THAT THE WOOLLY BEECH APHID EXISTS?????

(source)

(source)

THEY. ARE. SO . FUCKING. CUTE!? I CAN’T HANDLLLE THISISSSSSSS