#sewing tutorials

[covidsafecosplay]

Free Sewing Pattern: Janet Vest via Mood Fabrics

Written by Shavonne Cruz for Mood Fabrics, this vest pattern is modeled after Janet from The Good Place. The pattern is offered free via email subscription, and the tutorial provides detailed instructions. You can check it out here!

The CovidSafeCosplay blog and its admin are unaffiliated with the patternmaker or Mood Fabrics, and are simply sharing the resource. Blog admin has not personally tested this pattern. Please thoroughly read the pattern and tutorial for full instructions.

Do you have a favorite free pattern resource? Share in the comments or via a reblog! Bonus points for those that are free, include image descriptions, or contain detailed tutorials for newbies to follow.

[bwabbitv3s]

Last Minute Christmas Crunch Sew and Quilting Gifts

Welcome to December and time for the Christmas Crunch. That lovely time of year when the count down to Christmas really hits crafters. Well here are a bunch of quick and easy last minute things you can make. These babies can be made using up scraps, leftover fabric, or fat quarters.

First off for the quilters and seamstress is hot pads, bow cozies, casserole dish cozies, pie cozies, and bowl covers. They make great gifts for those that cook or bake. Also very lovely to pair with the edible gifts or hostess gift for Christmas dinner.

Special Notes for these projects. If you want to be able to put the cozies in the microwave you need a special type of batting called wrap n zap. It is microwave safe. Insul-bright the heat reflecting batting used in many hot pads can not go in the microwave as it can catch fire or spark due to the material. When making hot pads make sure to use only 100% cotton batting as any with poly (polyester) in them will melt from the heat.

[onsa-online-sewing-academy]

Can You Learn to Sew Online? A Comprehensive Look at Your Options with ONSA

At ONSA - Online Sewing Academy, the world of stitching and garment construction should be accessible to everyone, regardless of location or schedule. In today's digital age, online learning has revolutionized how we acquire new skills, making it possible to master intricate crafts like sewing from the comfort of our homes. But can you truly become an expert stitcher through virtual classes alone? Let's explore the options available and how ONSA empowers you to embark on an enriching sewing journey.

The Beauty of Pre-Recorded Video Lessons

Ah, the world of pre-recorded tutorials - a treasure trove of knowledge at your fingertips! ONSA's extensive library of meticulously crafted video lessons offers a comprehensive exploration of sewing techniques, from the fundamentals of threading a needle to the intricacies of advanced garment construction. One of the most significant advantages of this format is the ability to learn at your own pace, rewinding and revisiting lessons as many times as needed until each stitch and seam becomes second nature.

Our pre-recorded videos are thoughtfully designed to cater to diverse learning styles, combining visual demonstrations with clear, concise explanations. Whether you're a visual learner who thrives on observing each step or an auditory learner who appreciates detailed verbal guidance, our lessons ensure that no aspect of the sewing process is left unexplained.

While budget-friendly and convenient, we understand that pre-recorded content may lack the human interaction that many pupils crave – the ability to ask questions, receive real-time feedback, and benefit from the personalized attention of an experienced instructor. This is where our live, interactive classes come into play.

The Magic of Live, Interactive Classes

Imagine having a seasoned ONSA instructor by your virtual side, guiding you through the intricate sewing world with patience and expertise. Our live, online classes provide an immersive, interactive experience replicating the intimacy of a physical classroom setting. Through video conferencing technology, you can follow along with your instructor, ask questions as they arise, and receive real-time feedback on your technique.

One of the most significant advantages of live classes at ONSA is the ability to learn at a pace that suits your individual needs. Our instructors are adept at adapting their teaching methods to accommodate varying skill levels, ensuring that every student feels included and supported. Whether you're a complete novice taking your first tentative stitches or a skilled stitcher seeking to elevate your art, our talented teachers can customize lesson plans to align with your unique goals and aspirations.

From mastering the art of inserting invisible zippers to acquiring advanced draping skills for haute couture designs, our live classes cover various topics, catering to hobbyists and aspiring professionals. Private one-on-one sessions and small group workshops provide ample opportunity for personalized guidance, fostering an environment where questions are welcomed, and challenges are addressed with patience and expertise.

The ONSA Edge: A Holistic Approach to Sewing Education

At ONSA, we understand that sewing is more than just a practical skill – it's an art form that combines technical precision with creative expression. Our approach to online sewing education is rooted in this philosophy, nurturing both the technical and artistic aspects of this timeless craft.

Our team of expert instructors, each with years of industry experience and a passion for teaching, has thoughtfully crafted a multifaceted curriculum that covers the entire spectrum of sewing, from understanding fabric properties and pattern drafting to mastering advanced construction techniques and exploring fashion design principles.

By combining our comprehensive library of pre-recorded video resources with live, interactive sessions, ONSA provides a 360-degree learning experience tailored to your schedule, skillset, and aspirations. Whether you prefer the convenience of self-paced learning or thrive on the dynamic energy of a virtual classroom, our blend of educational formats ensures that your sewing journey is enriching, engaging, and tailored to your unique needs.

Beyond the technical aspects of sewing, ONSA also emphasizes the importance of nurturing creativity and self-expression. Our lessons encourage students to experiment with fabric choices, color combinations, and design elements, fostering an environment where individuality is celebrated and personal style is cultivated.

Sewing Mastery: A Journey, Not a Destination

At ONSA, we firmly believe that sewing mastery is a lifelong pursuit, a continuous learning and refinement journey. Our online academy is designed to support you at every stage of this journey, from your first tentative stitches to the creation of intricate, couture-worthy garments.

As you progress through our curriculum, you can participate in virtual sewing circles, where you can connect with fellow stitchers, share your creations, and seek inspiration from a community of like-minded individuals. Our instructors are not just teachers but mentors dedicated to your growth and success, offering guidance and encouragement every step of the way.

Sewing is more than just a hobby – it's a powerful form of self-expression, transforming fabric into wearable art that reflects your unique style and personality. At ONSA, we strive to empower you to unleash your creativity, one stitch at a time, by providing a comprehensive and immersive online learning experience tailored to your needs.

Ready to Start Stitching Your Dreams into Reality?

Whether you're a busy professional seeking a creative outlet, a stay-at-home parent looking to explore a new passion, or a lifelong stitcher yearning to elevate your skills, ONSA - Online Sewing Academy supports your sewing journey.

Explore our diverse online sewing courses today, from beginner-friendly introductions to advanced masterclasses, and unlock a world of possibilities that transcends time and space. With ONSA, the art of sewing is no longer limited by your location or schedule – it's a vibrant, accessible realm where your dreams can be woven into reality, one exquisite thread at a time.

Join our virtual community of passionate stitchers, where inspiration, camaraderie, and personal growth intertwine seamlessly. Embark on a transformative journey that will teach you sewing techniques, ignite your creativity, boost your confidence, and empower you to express your individuality through the timeless art of garment construction.

The world of sewing awaits, and at ONSA, we're committed to being your trusted guide every step of the way. Unleash your inner stitching prowess, and let your creativity take flight – the possibilities are endless.

[anielskaaniela]

Fabrics for Dresses and Tops: How to Choose the Best Fabric for Your Sewing Projects

In this post, you will learn what are the best fabrics for sewing dresses, tops, pants and shorts.. If you love sewing dresses, blouses, and tops, you know how important it is to choose the right fabrics for your dresses and tops. The fabric you use can make or break your garment, affecting its appearance, comfort, and durability. One of the main factors to consider when choosing fabric for…

[thepotatopixie]

Welcome back to Potato's "How To Bullshit Sewing"

First I showed my concept, now we're going to measure and cut out the pieces!

So I'm going to vocational college for graphic design, so I need a bag to hold a lot of books and papers. My largest paper pad I've used so far is this Bristol Board, so that's what were going go use to measure about how big to make it!

First you take your largest item and lay it on the fabric, and draw the shape of the bag around it, remembering to have extra material for seam allowance, and "opps I fucked up and now the edges are all frazzled"

(I forgot to mention that the canvas and other materials I have is doubled, from when they cut it off the bolt, so you only need the cut out the outer material once if that's the case for you.)

It's likely I'll trim this down a bit later, but its better to have more than you need, then less that you have to go back and get.

Next, stack the stuff you need in it and either take a leftover piece of material or paper and mark how wide the sides need to be. I had some leftover canvas that was about the width of the stuff I had, so I used it as a starting point.

From the bottom of the material I marked where the top of the lenght was, pretty much just made a line where I the top corner was.

Here I marked the width of the bag, but unfortunately I didn't have enough material to have one continuous line for the whole bag. But, since this material is folded, I can just mark about the middle of the bottom and have two halves.

Next, the Tazer Pocket I want to add to throw side.

The one on my messenger bag was fine, that one I top sewed the folded edges closer together so it wouldn't be completely flat on the side, if that makes sense.

But this time we're making side seams so it doesn't go inside the bag a bit, if that makes sense also.

Repeat the steps like with the Bristol board, giving plenty of seam allowance and trimming room. This scrap price was perfect to use, and I had enough to also use it for the side seam.

I folded that material hotdog style and that looked to be enough for the side seam, so it's good enough for me! If it messes up later it can be a snack pocket lol.

Next, I want to make a drawstring bag on the opposite side for trinkets or chapstick or whatever the hell, so I cut out a piece that was a little bigger than the side of the bag, which looking now I'll likely trim a bit of the lenght off later.

Sooooo, I forgot to take a picture of makeing the front flap for the bag. Since I used up the 10 image limit of the post, I'll make a drawing of how I made that later.

Thank you for reading! I know it's not a very comprehensive tutorial, but it's fun so oh well! Maybe in the future I'll make a better post about it.

[consistantly-changing]

[Image description: a screenshot of a tiktok, showing a person with short curly hair, visible from the eyes up, pointing upwards at text. The text is edited, edits in italics. It says, "sewing tutorials by people with thousands of dollars of sewing supplies will look you in the eyes and tell you something insane like quote "use your serger" Unquote."]

[A tag which says #fr like bruh I got a needle and thread]

[#if a 19th-century gentlewoman couldn't do it then I can't either]

[#'lay this out on your cutting table' #bitch you mean my FLOOR]

[pigletslatte]

I will only watch sewing tutorials from aged women who do not know how to cut footage. The more midwestern and hard to hear, the better

[thecassafrasstree]

Had a few folks interested in how I made the patches I posted for Solarpunk Aesthetic Week, so I thought I'd give y'all my step-by-step process for making hand-embroidered patches!

First, choose your fabric and draw on your design. You can use basically any fabric for this - for this project I'm using some felt I've had lying around in my stash for ages.

Next, choose your embroidery floss. For my patches I split my embroidery floss into two threads with 3 strands each, as pictured. You can use as many strands in your thread as you prefer, but for the main body of my patches I prefer 3 strands.

Next you're going to start filling your design using a back stitch.

First, put in a single stitch where you want your row to start.

Poke your needle up through the fabric 1 stitch-length away from your first stitch.

Poke your needle back down the same hole your last stitch went into so they line up end-to-end.

Repeat until you have a row of your desired length (usually the length of that colour section from one end to the other). Once you have your first row, you're going to do your next row slightly offset from your first row so that your stitches lay together in a brick pattern like this:

Make sure your rows of stitches are tight together, or you'll get gaps where the fabric shows through.

Rinse and repeat with rows of back stitch to fill in your patch design.

When you're almost to the end of your thread, poke your needle through to the back of the fabric and pull the thread under the back part of the stitching to tuck in the end. Don't worry if it looks messy - no one's gonna see the back anyway.

This next step is fully optional, but I think it makes the patch design really pop. Once your patch is filled in, you can use black embroidery floss to outline your design (or whatever colour you want to outline with - it's your patch, do what you want). I use the full thread (6 strands, not split) of embroidery floss to make a thicker outline.

I use the same back stitch I used to fill the piece to make an outline that adds some separation and detail. You could use most any 'outlining' stitch for this, but I just use back stitch because it's just easier for me to do.

Once you're finished embroidering your patch, it's time to cut it out!

Make sure to leave a little border around the edge to use for sewing your patch on your jacket/bag/blanket/whatever, and be careful not to accidentally cut through the stitches on the back of the patch.

If you have a sturdy enough fabric that isn't going to fray, you can just leave it like this. If not, I recommend using a whip stitch/satin stitch to seal in the exposed edges (I find that splitting your embroidery floss into 3-strand threads works best for this).

And then you're done! At this point you can put on iron-on backing if you want, or just sew it on whatever you wanna put it on. Making patches this way does take a long time, but I feel that the results are worth it.

Thanks for reading this tutorial! I hope it was helpful. If anyone makes patches using this method, I'd love to see them! 😁

[cjdsignsworld]

Monogrammed Crochet Cup Cozie

 Hi, Sweet Friends, This week I have created several Crochet Drink/Coffee Cup Sleeves just to start off Creative Thursdays Before Christmas. If you have followed my blog over these many years, Thursdays are Creative Thursdays, however, starting in August, I make craft tutorials on Homemade Christmas Gifts. Most of these gifts are short-hour projects whereas others can have many days to assemble.…

[magni-draconum]

I like the duckbill patterned one!

I made a bunch of nerd themed masks for a fundraiser for college cosplay club back in 2020.

Like these ATLA themed masks:

Free Pattern Wednesday: DIY Mask Patterns For Covid-Safe Cosplayers!

Handmade cloth face masks are no replacement for a medical-grade mask, but using them over medical masks can be a snazzy way to better incorporate your COVID-19 safety measures into your costume! This list contains links to several different styles of mask, so you can choose what works best for you!

Note: blog admin has not personally tested all of these patterns. Please thoroughly read each pattern to determine which will work best for your health, costume, and aesthetic preferences. For information on selecting a proper medical-grade face mask, please see this guide from the People's CDC.

Mood Fabrics: How to Add Some Couture Details to Your Face Masks – Free Template

Japanese Sewing Books: Free Mask Pattern Download – Contoured 3D Face Mask

CraftPassion: Face Mask Sewing Pattern – 4 Sizes

The Spruce: How to Sew a Basic Face Mask

Sweet Red Poppy: How to Sew a Surgical Face Mask

See Kate Sew: 3d mask template – the most comfortable face mask

Shannie Makes: Simple Surgical Style 3 Pleats Face Mask Pattern

Shannie Makes: 2 Piece Style Face Mask Pattern

Shannie Makes: Duckbill Style Face Mask Pattern

Do you have a favorite face mask pattern? Share in the comments or via a reblog! Bonus points for those that are free, include image descriptions, or contain detailed tutorials for newbies to follow.

[vinceaddams]

Any tips on learning to make buttonholes? I've been putting it off for.... *checks notes* like three years.... but better late than never and all that. I don't have any fancy machines so I gotta do it by hand but that seems right up your alley.

Thanks!

It IS up my alley, yes, I do most of my buttonholes by hand!

I'm actually part way through filming an 18th century buttonhole tutorial, but I expect it'll be a few more weeks before I finish that and put it on the youtubes, so in the meantime here's the very very short version. (The long version is looking like it'll probably be about 40 minutes maybe, judging by how much script I've written compared to my last video?)

Mark your line, a bit longer than your button is wide. I usually use a graphite mechanical pencil on light fabrics, and a light coloured pencil crayon on dark ones. (I have fabric pencils too, but they're much softer and leave a thicker line.) You may want to baste the layers together around all the marked buttonholes if you're working on something big and the layers are shifty and slippery. I'm not basting here because this is just a pants placket.

Do a little running stitch (or perhaps a running backstitch) in fine thread around the line at the width you want the finished buttonhole to be. This holds the layers of fabric together and acts as a nice little guide for when you do the buttonhole stitches.

Cut along the marked line using a buttonhole cutter, or a woodworking chisel. Glossy magazines are the best surface to put underneath your work as you push down, and you can give it a little tap with a rubber mallet if it's not going through all the way.

I'm aware that there are some people who cut their buttonholes open using seam rippers, and if any of them are reading this please know that that is abhorrent behaviour and I need you to stop it immediately. Stop it.

Go get a buttonhole cutter for 10 bucks and your life will be better for it. Or go to the nearest hardware store and get a little woodworking chisel. This includes machine buttonholes, use the buttonhole cutter on them too. If you continue to cut open buttonholes with a seam ripper after reading this you are personally responsible for at least 3 of the grey hairs on my head.

Do a whipstitch around the cut edges, to help prevent fraying while you work and to keep all those threads out of the way. (For my everyday shirts I usually do a machine buttonhole instead of this step, and then just hand stitch over it, because it's a bit faster and a lot sturdier on the thin fabrics.)

I like to mark out my button locations at this point, because I can mark them through the holes without the buttonhole stitches getting in the way.

For the actual buttonhole stitches it's really nice if you have silk buttonhole twist, but I usually use those little balls of DMC cotton pearl/perle because it's cheap and a good weight. NOT stranded embroidery floss, no separate strands! It's got to be one smooth twisted thing!

Here's a comparison pic between silk buttonhole twist (left) and cotton pearl (right). Both can make nice looking buttonholes, but the silk is a bit nicer to work with and the knots line up more smoothly.

I've actually only used the silk for one garment ever, but am going to try to do it more often on my nicer things. I find the cotton holds up well enough to daily wear though, despite being not ideal. The buttonholes are never the first part of my garments to wear out.

I cut a piece of about one arm's length more or less, depending on the size of buttonhole. For any hole longer than about 4cm I use 2 threads, one to do each side, because the end gets very frayed and scruffy by the time you've put it through the fabric that many times.

I wax about 2cm of the tip (Not the entire thread. I wax the outlining/overcasting thread but not the buttonhole thread itself.) to make it stick in the fabric better when I start off the thread. I don't tend to tie it, I just do a couple of stabstitches or backstitches and it holds well. (I'm generally very thorough with tying off my threads when it comes to hand sewing, but a buttonhole is basically a long row of knots, so it's pretty sturdy.)

Put the needle through underneath, with the tip coming up right along that little outline you sewed earlier. And I personally like to take the ends that are already in my hand and wrap them around the tip of the needle like so, but a lot of people loop the other end up around the other way, so here's a link to a buttonhole video with that method. Try both and see which one you prefer, the resulting knot is the same either way.

Sometimes I can pull the thread from the end near the needle and have the stitch look nice, but often I grab it closer to the base and give it a little wiggle to nestle it into place. This is more necessary with the cotton than it is with the silk.

The knot should be on top of the cut edge of the fabric, not in front of it.

You can put your stitches further apart than I do if you want, they'll still work if they've got little gaps in between them.

Keep going up that edge and when you get to the end you can either flip immediately to the other side and start back down again, or you can do a bar tack. (You can also fan out the stitches around the end if you want, but I don't like to anymore because I think the rectangular ends look nicer.)

Here's a bar tack vs. no bar tack sample. They just make it look more sharp, and they reinforce the ends.

For a bar tack do a few long stitches across the entire end.

And then do buttonhole stitches on top of those long stitches. I also like to snag a tiny bit of the fabric underneath.

Then stick the needle down into the fabric right where you ended that last stitch on the corner of the bar tack, so you don't pull that corner out of shape, and then just go back to making buttonhole stitches down the other side.

Then do the second bar tack once you get back to the end.

To finish off my thread I make it sticky with a bit more beeswax, waxing it as close to the fabric as I can get, and then bring it through to the back and pull it underneath the stitches down one side and trim it off.

In my experience it stays put perfectly well this way without tying it off.

Voila! An beautiful buttonholes!

If you want keyhole ones you can clip or punch a little rounded bit at one end of the cut and fan your stitches out around that and only do the bar tack at one end, like I did on my 1830's dressing gown.

(I won't do that style in my video though, because they're not 18th century.)

Do samples before doing them on a garment! Do as many practice ones as you need to, it takes a while for them to get good! Mine did not look this nice 10 years ago.

Your first one will probably look pretty bad, but your hundredth will be much better!

Edit: Video finished!

And here's the blog post, which is mostly a slightly longer version of this post.

[tretinoin-tube]

Lolita Accessory tutorial pages from Japanese mook “Gothic & Lolita Patterns”, 2004

Included are: head dresses, hair clips/ties, camisole pattern, drawers pattern, sock stoppers, multiple bag patterns, detachable collars, and jewelry.

Consider this as my Valentine’s gift to you guys!! Thank you for being very kind about my post ^-^

*Also* If you would like the patterns to some of the tutorials (ie: the mini top hats, pattern 62) let me know so I can make a post later!

[anielskaaniela]

Camisole Sewing Patterns -Easy Cami Drafting Tutorial

In this post, you will learn how to create your dream camisole sewing patterns . Welcome to my ultimate camisole sewing patterns tutorial, perfect for advanced beginners and seasoned sewists in sewing experience alike! Whether you’re looking to create a strappy top, a luxurious everyday top, or a versatile layering piece, my step-by-step guide has you covered. This tutorial includes detailed…

[angelacostumery]

I have, quite seriously, made entire costumes in the length of time it took me to make this single fucking bow.

I'm not sure if it was worth the hours and destruction of my finger (thimbles are for the weak but regrettably my skin is weak too) but it is quite pretty, I guess.

the piece of lace for this was about eighty inches long. It matches the beading on the same trim used around the underbust.

this lace is made to be inset and has margins on either side that I used as seam allowance. it was sewn to a strip of faille with the right sides facing each other.

the faille was interfaced with strips cut to the width of the lace, so it would not extend into the seam allowance.

the edges were trimmed down with pinking sheers, then it was turned right side out.

I sewed sequins onto each edge first, one in each little "box" on the trim? I'm not sure how many there are but if you ask my fingers they would say way too many.

the beading was done next, I did this after because they are bulkier and the thread is more likely to catch on them if I sewed them on before the sequins.

this is a mix of pearls and glass beads, once again following the lace pattern to ensure even spacing.

I sewed the beads on with heavy-duty upholstery thread since they will be prone to snagging and I don't want any to fall off.

I spent like an hour trying to figure out how to make this bow look good. when I was finally happy with it I used pliers to crush all the glass beads in the center so it would be less bulky.

the center is a little piece of trim from my stash. I was originally going to use more of this on the project but then I just did a bunch of hand beading instead.

and there you go, a bow. this will go over the actual closure which will probably be twill tape tied in a far less attractive but more functional bow.

[thepotatopixie]

Welcome to Potato's (the name for my pixie characters still a wild, lol) How to Bullshit Sewing!

So far I've made 2 messenger bags, both of which have served me well and the latter one I made for when I start vocational school, but admittedly made it a bit too wide so it's a little awkward to hold my books in and the pockets weren't quite as functional as I'd like, it being my first time makeing outside pockets in a while.

Anyways! Going off from my mistakes, I'm making an updated bag and taking YOU with me! Come see my floundering and bullshitery to make a weird but functional bag!

(Btw I hate the galaxy watermark, but tumblrs only letting me use my google photos, rip)

Here's the concept! Now I'm weird with my bags, I put the pretty patterned fabric on the inside; it's a weird 'don't judge a book by the cover, the magics on the inside' kinda thing, it's like "ooo people think it's a plain ole silly bag but on the INSIDE it's MAGICAL" idk. Anyways.

Atm as I'm typing it's late for my granny ass so I'll post this and tomorrow I'll post my measuring process (or lack thereof, I have antique kids sewing machines and darning stuff and weird shaped needles, but no ruler)

And my weird little shortcuts I do for projects for stuff I'm making myself, it doesn't need to be perfect, just as functional as you need it to be.

I also need to reread my witchy sewing book so I can at witchy shit to it

Stay tuned!!