#season 11b

[mymanreedus]

bigbaldhead instastories

[risequotes]

Daily Rise Quotes: DAY 636

Mikey: Why aren't you guys more upset?

(Simultaneously)

Leo: Ohh, it's a tragedy.

Raph: Oh, oh. [Fake crying]

Donnie: Ohh, man, tha- this hurts me. Uh. I'm very sad?

(Season 1, Episode 11B - Pizza Pit)

[turtlevariabilis]

<- INDEX

Rise of the Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles

-> Screenshots Season 1

Episode 1 Mystic Mayhem (part 1/2)

Episode 1 Mystic Mayhem (part 2/2)

Episode 2a Origami Tsunami

Episode 2b Donnie’s Gifts

Episode 3a War and Pizza

Episode 3b Newsworthy

Episode 4a Repo Mantis

Episode 4b Down with the Sickness

Episode 5a The Fast and the Furriest

Episode 5b Mascot Melee

Episode 6a Shell in a Cell

Episode 6b Minotaur Maze

Episode 7 Bug Busters (part 1/2)

Episode 7 Bug Busters (part 2/2)

Episode 8a The Longest Fight

Episode 8b Hypno! Part Deux!

Episode 9a The Gumbus

Episode 9b Mrs. Cuddles

Episode 10a Stuck on You

Episode 10b Al Be Back

Episode 11a The Purple Jacket

Episode 11b Pizza Pit

Episode 12a Smart Lair

Episode 12b Hot Soup: The Game

Episode 13 The Evil League of Mutants (part 1/2)

Episode 13 The Evil League of Mutants (part 2/2)

Episode 14a Late Fee

Episode 14b Bullhop

Episode 15a Mind Meld

Episode 15b Nothing But Truffle

Episode 16 Shadow of Evil

Episode 17a Portal Jacked!

Episode 17b Warren & Hypno, Sitting in a Tree

Episode 18a Operation: Normal

Episode 18b Sparring Partner

Episode 19a You Got Served

Episode 19b How to Make Enemies and Bend People to Your Will

Episode 20a Mystic Library

Episode 20b The Purple Game

Episode 21a Man Vs. Sewer

Episode 21b The Mutant Menace

Episode 22a Turtle-dega Nights: The Ballad of Rat Man

Episode 22b The Ancient Art of Ninja Hide and Seek

Episode 23a One Man’s Junk

Episode 23b Snow Day

Episode 24a Cloak and Swaggart

Episode 24b Jupiter Jim Ahoy!

Episode 25 Insane in the Mama Train (part 1/2)

Episode 25 Insane in the Mama Train (part 2/2)

Episode 26 End Game (part 1/2)

Episode 26 End Game (part 2/2)

-> Screenshots Season 2

-> Screenshots The movie

If you encounter any URL issues, please let me know through private message.

[insufferableburnout]

Some Thoughts About My Doctor Who (2005) Rewatch:

-LOVE Nine (always have)

-Rose Tyler the woman you are

-I still think 10 is my favorite and 10 and Rose together are *chefs kiss*

-Can’t lie though they did Martha so dirty

-10 and Donna are everything to me. Tennant and Tate are probably one of the best comedic duos. I still laugh every time I watch their Red Nose Day sketch

-I like the 11th doctor better this time around. I think I was too hung up on 10 to fully appreciate 11 before.

-Capaldi is still the goat. 10 is still my favorite but I love Punk Rock Grandpa. I always thought he was a good doctor with bad writing but actually the writing isn’t that bad. Sure there are some bad episodes but that’s true of any era.

-I actually like Clara a lot more now. I’m still not sold on her in season 11b but her whole time with 12 is genuinely really good. Face The Raven is still one of the best DW episodes of all time. The way that it’s followed up by Heaven Sent is also incredible. That whole season had so many bangers.

-Now 13 is the doctor who is a good doctor with bad writing. I love Whittaker and thought she did an excellent job. I think my biggest issue with Chibnall’s writing is that it doesn’t feel like Doctor Who and feels very disconnected from the rest of the show. Specifically, it feels like a lot of character development from season 10 was forgotten. Especially for The Master.

-Let’s talk about The Master. I LOVED Missy. I found her so complex and interesting and added new layers to Doctor/Master dynamic.

Now I love Sacha Dhawan (He was incredible in The Great) and I think his performance is fantastic and I love his interpretation of The Master but it doesn’t make sense looking at Missy character arc. I know new Regeneration means new personality but each Regeneration is still supposed to have the memories of all the Regenerations before and some feelings carry over. This is true for both the Master and the Doctor and with Chibnall I don’t really see the through line. I understand how much of a challenge this is for the writers, directors, and actors but it was really disappointing to watch Missy’s arc and then then go to DhawanMaster because it felt like that whole thing was totally ignored. There wasn’t even a reference to Bill or the Cyberman ship. It just didn’t feel connected to the previous seasons.

I feel like I could see more of how 11 could regenerate insto 13 than 12 into 13.

And the whole Timeless Child thing. I still hate it. It makes no sense within the context of the show and contradicts so much established lore (from both new and classic who). It makes everything 11 did on Trenzalore pointless. It puts so many plotholes into Clara’s Impossible Girl arc. It doesn’t make sense for motivation for the Master imo. It’s so inconsistent and confusing.

That whole Timeless Child arc really felt like “lets confuse the audience as much as we can” “even if it doesn’t make sense?” “Especially if it doesn’t make sense!”

Now before anyone says “oh well in this issue of the comic” or “In this episode of Big Finish” I haven’t consumed either of those. And personally I think that the continuity and lore of the show should stay consistent within the show and audiences shouldn’t *have* to go to other places for it to make sense.

-About to start season 13. This is the last season I watched before doing this rewatch (i’m showing dw to my partner for the first time) so everything after this season will be new to me which is really exciting!

[my-mt-heart]

Didn't Angela mention in an interview different chapters? We all thought back then it's about 11b and 11c. But the chosen title for DD is putting everyone off, Caryler or not. What if season 2 is the second chapter and called Carol or Carol Pelletier and if they get a third season Raise The Dead or whatever? It's also possible, that the official title will be RTD and each chapter named differently... No matter what, DD is unacceptable.

It’ll be really off putting if Daryl Dixon wasn’t behaving like Daryl Dixon, wouldn’t it? 🤣😭 201’s title page said “book 2” which always made me wonder if there’d be subtitles named after each character. I hate Raise the Dead, personally. I hate the religious theme. I hate that it has absolutely nothing to do with Daryl and Carol at all.

It’s getting down the wire, so if they were going to announce a title, you’d think it’d be pretty soon. At this point it just seems like another really bad choice AMC refuses to walk back and I’m not paying for it.

[quotingtmnt]

"And that's how for one week, or five weekdays, and two weekends days, Pizza week was saved by me." - Raphael

"Who are you talking to?" - Leonardo (Rise Season 1 Episode 11B)

[pers-books]

Scribe Award Nominees

We're proud to announce four nominations in the Audio Drama category of the 2023 Scribe Awards. 

Peake Season by LM Myles  (from Doctor Who: The Fourth Doctor Adventures: Series 11B: The Nine)

Albie's Angels by Roy Gill (from Doctor Who: The Eighth Doctor Adventures: Connections)

Previously, Next Time Parts 1 and 2 by James Moran (from Doctor Who: Time War 5: Cass)

He Who Fights With Monsters by Robert Valentine  (Doctor Who: The War Doctor Begins)

Related bundles:

Doctor Who: The Fourth Doctor Adventures Series 11 (CD)

Doctor Who: The Fourth Doctor Adventures Series 11 (Download)

Doctor Who: The Eighth Doctor: Time War 5-6 (CD)

Doctor Who: The Eighth Doctor: Time War 5-6 (Download)

Doctor Who: The Eighth Doctor Bundle 2022 (CD)

Doctor Who: The Eighth Doctor Bundle 2022 (Download)

Doctor Who: The War Doctor Begins 1-4 (CD)

Doctor Who: The War Doctor Begins 1-4 (Download)

The above offers expire at 23:59 (UK time) on 23 July 2023.

[spongeboyexpertpants]

bros had it rough, i think he deserves the award

season 5, episode 19a: The Two Faces of Squidward

season 11, episode 17a: Mustard O' Mine

season 5, episode 4b: Boat Smarts

season 10, episode 4a: Snooze You Lose

season 2, episode 20a: Squid on Strike

season 1, episode 11b: Squidward the Unfriendly Ghost

season 3, episode 17b: The Camping Episode

season 10, episode 6a: Life Insurance

can’t believe shinji got beat out by a honest to god squid

[mymanreedus]

olegdotcom “We ain’t The Walking Dead”

[tameblog]

Huernia zebrina With spreading, spineless stems, lifesaver cactus (Huernia zebrina) is a quirky succulent. Gracing a windowsill, trailing from a hanging basket, or serving as ground cover, the shiny red centers and tiger-striped petals of the flowers are uniquely mesmerizing! Lifesaver cactus is an evergreen succulent that has branching, leafless stems lined with spikes. Those spikes may look like spines, but they are not sharp to the touch, and despite its common name, H. zebrina is not a true cactus! We link to vendors to help you find relevant products. If you buy from one of our links, we may earn a commission. Also known as lifebuoy huernia, owl eyes, little owl eyes, and zebra-striped huernia, the stems have four to six angles, and are green, turning reddish purple when exposed to intense light or cool temperatures. Ready to learn more about this unique succulent? Here’s what I’ll cover: These succulent plants reach three to six inches tall and have a creeping growth habit, spreading to 12 inches wide or more. At the base of the stems is where the intriguing flowers appear, in pairs or small clusters. These blooms are fairly large – measuring between one and three inches wide – and are star-shaped, with yellow and red tiger stripes or mottling, and a glossy round ring at the center, inspiring the plant’s common name. Quick Look Common name(s): Lifesaver cactus, lifebuoy huernia, owl eyes, zebra-striped huernia Plant type: Evergreen succulent Hardiness (USDA Zone): 10b-11b (outdoors) Native to: Mozambique, South Africa, Swaziland, Zimbabwe Bloom time / season: Spring, summer Exposure: Full sun, light shade Soil type: Succulent/cactus growing medium, well draining Soil pH: 6.1-7.8, slightly acidic to slightly alkaline Time to maturity: 2-5 years Mature size: 12 inches wide x 3-6 inches high Best uses: Hanging baskets, houseplant, ground cover, xeriscaping Taxonomy Order: Gentianales Family: Apocynaceae Genus: Huernia Species: Zebrina Ready for a less picturesque detail? Since the flowers are pollinated by flies, they look – at least, glancingly – like rotting flesh. But these flowers don’t stink, unlike those of some of the relatives of this species. If they are pollinated, the flowers will give way to large seed pods that will ripen, dry, and split open. The seeds have bits of fluff on them, which allows them to be dispersed by the wind. This fascinating succulent is native to what is arguably the hotspot of succulent biodiversity in the world – the southern part of Africa, where it grows in Mozambique, South Africa, Swaziland, and Zimbabwe. In these regions, H. zebrina populations occur among rocky limestone soils or hard loam soils in dry scrubland. Photo by Kristina Hicks-Hamblin. H. zebrina is classified botanically within the Apocynaceae or dogbane family, related to family members that may seem unexpected – hoyas, string of hearts, and milkweed! Within the dogbane family, lifesaver cactus is grouped into the taxonomical subtribe Stapeliinae. The members of this subtribe are known as stapeliads – and include other similar-looking succulents such as starfish flower (Stapelia grandiflora) and Orbea variegata. Lifesaver cactus makes an excellent houseplant on a sunny windowsill or under a grow light. And mature specimens can also be used as hanging and trailing succulents in hanging baskets. You might also include it in a mixed succulent planter, or if you’re feeling rather whimsical, in a succulent fairy garden! Outdoors in USDA Hardiness Zones 10b to 11b, lifesaver cactus can be cultivated in a container, or planted in a xeriscape as a ground cover as long as you provide excellent drainage and protection from abundant rainfall. How to Grow To successfully grow lifesaver cactus you’ll need to provide the right light, water, and soil. You’ll also want to know about its temperature requirements, particularly if you are growing outdoors for part or all of the year! Let’s start with light. Light Lifesaver cactus needs four to eight hours of direct sunlight to thrive. Whether you’re growing indoors or out, that direct sun exposure should be during the morning and evening, rather than when the sun is at its hottest in the middle of the day. Photo by Kristina Hicks-Hamblin. If you’re keeping it outdoors for all or part of the year, be sure to choose a spot so it receives filtered light during the heat of the day. Indoors, a south facing window is your best bet, although you may need to hang a sheer white curtain at certain times. Are you using a grow light instead of or as a supplement to direct sun exposure? Make sure the plant is receiving at least 800 foot candles as an equivalent to that direct sun. Not sure how to measure foot candles? Use a light meter! Soil and Containers Lifesaver cactus needs a somewhat gritty potting medium to provide good drainage, and it should have a pH of between 6.1 and 7.8. When choosing a container, the first thing to look for is that it has drainage holes, a must when tending to any succulents. These plants don’t have deep roots, so shallow succulent planters that are wider than they are deep will work perfectly, plus giving them the lateral space to expand into a clump. For growing medium, you have options – lifesaver cactuses aren’t particularly fussy as long as they have good drainage. You may want to make your own succulent mix, using approximately 50 percent cactus and succulent soil with roughly 50 percent additional grit such as pumice added. I like to use Rosy Soil Cactus and Succulent mix, which is available in four-quart bags via Walmart. Rosy Soil Cactus and Succulent Mix If you live in a particularly arid location, you might want to skip adding extra grit to the succulent and cactus soil, since it will dry out more quickly than in regions with extra humidity. Water Allow the growing medium to dry fully or almost fully between waterings – there is a bit of flexibility here. If you use a moisture meter, the needle should point to the dry range. If in doubt, err on the side of under- rather than overwatering. When you’re ready to water, use the bottom watering technique or water the surface of the soil with a narrow spouted watering can. If you keep your plant sitting on a saucer, make sure to empty it after watering, to avoid root rot. Temperature and Humidity Lifesaver cactus will thrive with humidity levels between 40 to 50 percent. Photo by Kristina Hicks-Hamblin. And while some gardeners claim to be able to keep these plants outdoors at temperatures down to 42°F, to be safe you should bring them indoors while temperatures are still above 50°F. If your lifesaver cactus is exposed to temperatures around 50°F, be sure to keep the potting medium or soil dry, since cool, wet conditions can lead to rot. Where to Buy You can generally find lifesaver cactus available at stores that specialize in succulents or from online vendors. Lifesaver Cactus For example, you can purchase an H. zebrina specimen in a four-inch pot from Wekiva Garden Foliage via Amazon. In addition to the species plant, there is a cultivated variety, H. zebrina ‘Variegata.’ Variegated lifesaver cactus. With the same fascinating flowers, this cultivar has yellow and green mottled stems. Variegated lifesaver cactus isn’t as easy to find as the species plant, so check with sellers that specialize in stapeliads if this one is on your succulent wish list. Maintenance If you were hoping for a low maintenance succulent, with lifesaver cactus you’ve got it! For the most part, you won’t have to worry about removing spent foliage, as you would with echeverias. However, do snip off spent flowers as you see them with a pair of clean, sterilized scissors or garden snips to avoid spreading disease. Fertilizing To provide your lifesaver cactus with nutrients, use a gentle fertilizer formulated for succulents, such as Dr. Earth’s Succulence Cactus and Succulent Plant Food. Apply the fertilizer only during the growing season, following the manufacturer’s instructions. Dr. Earth Succulence Dr. Earth Succulence is available in 16-ounce pump bottles from Arbico Organics. You can learn more about fertilizing succulents here. Repotting Every two to three years you’ll want to repot or at least freshen up the growing medium if the plant hasn’t outgrown its container. If the lifesaver cactus is growing in the wrong type of growing medium, one that lacks drainage, it’s wise to switch out the growing medium immediately. If the plant is becoming root bound, with its roots filling the pot, you should transplant to a slightly larger container, regardless of the time you last repotted. To repot, remove the lifesaver cactus from its current container. If you are transplanting into the same type of medium that was used previously, loosen up the outer roots just a bit. If you are switching to a different type of potting medium, remove as much of the old medium as possible from around the roots. Place the root ball centered into the new pot, and hold the plant in place so that the surface of the soil will be about a half an inch to an inch below the rim of the container. Then fill in around the sides of the root ball with growing medium. Gently tamp the medium down, and wait a week before watering. Propagation  Lifesaver cactus can be propagated from seeds or from stem cuttings. Here’s how: From Seed For this project you will need some small nursery pots or a seed-starting tray, cactus and succulent growing medium, and – of course – some seeds. Fill your pots or seed-starting trays with growing medium, leaving a half inch to an inch gap between the surface and the rim of the pot or tray. Sow the seeds on the surface of the medium one to two inches apart, but don’t cover. Spray with a mister so that the growing medium is moist but not soggy. Place the pot or tray under a humidity dome. You can do this by placing a nursery pot inside a sealable plastic bag, or putting several pots or a tray into a clear plastic bin. Find a location in bright, indirect light, and keep them warm, between 77 to 86°F – using a heat mat if necessary. After the seeds germinate – within a week or two – remove the pot or tray from the heat mat, and gradually transition the seedlings to lower humidity and more intense light. Allow the seedlings to keep growing in the same pot or tray for a year or more, until they are too crowded and require transplanting. Our guide to starting succulents from seed has step by step instructions. From Stem Cuttings The best time to propagate lifesaver cactus from stem cuttings is in spring or summer when conditions are warm. When taking cuttings, skip the blades and simply twist branches off at the elbow. If you have a long cutting – six inches or longer – you can cut it in half to make two cuttings, just be sure to remember which end goes up, and use clean, sterilized scissors or garden snips to cut it. Allow the cuttings to callus over in a dry location out of direct sunlight for about a week. Cutting with aerial root. Photo by Kristina Hicks-Hamblin. The removed branches may already have aerial roots, which will help them take root when planted. In addition to cuttings, you’ll also need growing medium and pots. You can use a variety of pot sizes, depending on how many cuttings you have. A three-inch pot is a good size for a group of three cuttings. When the cuttings have callused, fill the containers with potting medium until the soil is about two inches below the rim of the pot. Starting at the center, poke holes into the medium about a half an inch or so apart, and insert the stems about an inch or so deep. Tamp down the soil around the cuttings firmly, to help keep the stems upright. Situate the pot in a location where the cuttings will receive bright, indirect light. Rather than watering the cuttings right away, wait until they show signs of new growth since they don’t have roots yet. If the branches you are planting already have aerial roots, you can go ahead and water right away. The lifesaver cuttings should be well-rooted within a month or so. At this point, start watering as you would an adult specimen and transition the succulent to increased light exposure. Our guide to propagating succulents has more information. Managing Pests and Disease The only type of insect pests you’ll have to worry about with these plants are mealybugs which are fond of feeding on their soft stems. When you first bring your lifesaver cactus home – or before you purchase it, if possible ��� inspect the stems carefully for fluffy, white residue, a sign of mealybugs. Also lift the plant out of its pot and check the roots for root mealies, a type of pest that hides in the soil, sucking nutrients from the roots. They’ll be visible on the outer edge of the root ball if they’re present. Whether above soil or below, mealybugs suck nutrients from plants, weakening them, and can eventually kill these plants if left untreated. Our guide to managing mealybugs has more information about these pests. If it’s too late and you already have an infested lifesaver plant on your hands, don’t panic! Neem oil is quite effective at eradicating these pests as long as you are thorough and consistent with treatments. Monterey Neem Oil Need some neem oil? Monterey’s Neem Oil Concentrate is available in a variety of sizes via Arbico Organics. Spray down the entire plant with neem oil, including the growing medium, diluted according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Keep the plant out of direct sunlight for a few days following treatment as the oil can cause the plant to scorch. Repeat treatments for six to eight weeks, and the mealies should be gone! The main disease you’re likely to encounter is rot, as a result of overwatering, insufficient drainage, or using a poorly draining or compacted growing medium. Learn more about how to deal with rotting succulents in our guide. Save a Succulent Life Remember to provide lots of direct sunlight, allow the medium to dry out between waterings, and grow in a gritty, well-draining potting medium. Add to that some vigilance for mealybugs, and this stapeliad will produce loads of spiky stems and eye-catching flowers. Do you have any remaining questions about growing these succulents? Or do you have any growing tips of your own you’d care to share with our readers? Leave your questions, comments, and lifesaver cactus photos in the comments section below! Want to keep expanding your succulent knowledge? We have more reading for you right here: Photos by Kristina Hicks-Hamblin© Ask the Experts, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. See our TOS for more details. Product photos via Arbico Organics, Walmart, and Wekiva Foliage. Uncredited photos: Shutterstock. !function(f,b,e,v,n,t,s) if(f.fbq)return;n=f.fbq=function()n.callMethod? n.callMethod.apply(n,arguments):n.queue.push(arguments); if(!f._fbq)f._fbq=n;n.push=n;n.loaded=!0;n.version='2.0'; n.queue=[];t=b.createElement(e);t.async=!0; t.src=v;s=b.getElementsByTagName(e)[0]; s.parentNode.insertBefore(t,s)(window, document,'script', ' fbq('init', '176410929431717'); fbq('track', 'PageView'); Source link

[risequotes]

Daily Rise Quotes: DAY 516

Donnie: And clearly, we all know that it's Pizzasaurus - the evil spawn of the Loch Ness Monster and Bigfoot! It's taking over pizza week!

(Season 1, Episode 11B - Pizza Pit)

[spongeboyexpertpants]

season 1, episode 11b: Squidward the Unfriendly Ghost

[ramestoryworld]

Huernia zebrina With spreading, spineless stems, lifesaver cactus (Huernia zebrina) is a quirky succulent. Gracing a windowsill, trailing from a hanging basket, or serving as ground cover, the shiny red centers and tiger-striped petals of the flowers are uniquely mesmerizing! Lifesaver cactus is an evergreen succulent that has branching, leafless stems lined with spikes. Those spikes may look like spines, but they are not sharp to the touch, and despite its common name, H. zebrina is not a true cactus! We link to vendors to help you find relevant products. If you buy from one of our links, we may earn a commission. Also known as lifebuoy huernia, owl eyes, little owl eyes, and zebra-striped huernia, the stems have four to six angles, and are green, turning reddish purple when exposed to intense light or cool temperatures. Ready to learn more about this unique succulent? Here’s what I’ll cover: These succulent plants reach three to six inches tall and have a creeping growth habit, spreading to 12 inches wide or more. At the base of the stems is where the intriguing flowers appear, in pairs or small clusters. These blooms are fairly large – measuring between one and three inches wide – and are star-shaped, with yellow and red tiger stripes or mottling, and a glossy round ring at the center, inspiring the plant’s common name. Quick Look Common name(s): Lifesaver cactus, lifebuoy huernia, owl eyes, zebra-striped huernia Plant type: Evergreen succulent Hardiness (USDA Zone): 10b-11b (outdoors) Native to: Mozambique, South Africa, Swaziland, Zimbabwe Bloom time / season: Spring, summer Exposure: Full sun, light shade Soil type: Succulent/cactus growing medium, well draining Soil pH: 6.1-7.8, slightly acidic to slightly alkaline Time to maturity: 2-5 years Mature size: 12 inches wide x 3-6 inches high Best uses: Hanging baskets, houseplant, ground cover, xeriscaping Taxonomy Order: Gentianales Family: Apocynaceae Genus: Huernia Species: Zebrina Ready for a less picturesque detail? Since the flowers are pollinated by flies, they look – at least, glancingly – like rotting flesh. But these flowers don’t stink, unlike those of some of the relatives of this species. If they are pollinated, the flowers will give way to large seed pods that will ripen, dry, and split open. The seeds have bits of fluff on them, which allows them to be dispersed by the wind. This fascinating succulent is native to what is arguably the hotspot of succulent biodiversity in the world – the southern part of Africa, where it grows in Mozambique, South Africa, Swaziland, and Zimbabwe. In these regions, H. zebrina populations occur among rocky limestone soils or hard loam soils in dry scrubland. Photo by Kristina Hicks-Hamblin. H. zebrina is classified botanically within the Apocynaceae or dogbane family, related to family members that may seem unexpected – hoyas, string of hearts, and milkweed! Within the dogbane family, lifesaver cactus is grouped into the taxonomical subtribe Stapeliinae. The members of this subtribe are known as stapeliads – and include other similar-looking succulents such as starfish flower (Stapelia grandiflora) and Orbea variegata. Lifesaver cactus makes an excellent houseplant on a sunny windowsill or under a grow light. And mature specimens can also be used as hanging and trailing succulents in hanging baskets. You might also include it in a mixed succulent planter, or if you’re feeling rather whimsical, in a succulent fairy garden! Outdoors in USDA Hardiness Zones 10b to 11b, lifesaver cactus can be cultivated in a container, or planted in a xeriscape as a ground cover as long as you provide excellent drainage and protection from abundant rainfall. How to Grow To successfully grow lifesaver cactus you’ll need to provide the right light, water, and soil. You’ll also want to know about its temperature requirements, particularly if you are growing outdoors for part or all of the year! Let’s start with light. Light Lifesaver cactus needs four to eight hours of direct sunlight to thrive. Whether you’re growing indoors or out, that direct sun exposure should be during the morning and evening, rather than when the sun is at its hottest in the middle of the day. Photo by Kristina Hicks-Hamblin. If you’re keeping it outdoors for all or part of the year, be sure to choose a spot so it receives filtered light during the heat of the day. Indoors, a south facing window is your best bet, although you may need to hang a sheer white curtain at certain times. Are you using a grow light instead of or as a supplement to direct sun exposure? Make sure the plant is receiving at least 800 foot candles as an equivalent to that direct sun. Not sure how to measure foot candles? Use a light meter! Soil and Containers Lifesaver cactus needs a somewhat gritty potting medium to provide good drainage, and it should have a pH of between 6.1 and 7.8. When choosing a container, the first thing to look for is that it has drainage holes, a must when tending to any succulents. These plants don’t have deep roots, so shallow succulent planters that are wider than they are deep will work perfectly, plus giving them the lateral space to expand into a clump. For growing medium, you have options – lifesaver cactuses aren’t particularly fussy as long as they have good drainage. You may want to make your own succulent mix, using approximately 50 percent cactus and succulent soil with roughly 50 percent additional grit such as pumice added. I like to use Rosy Soil Cactus and Succulent mix, which is available in four-quart bags via Walmart. Rosy Soil Cactus and Succulent Mix If you live in a particularly arid location, you might want to skip adding extra grit to the succulent and cactus soil, since it will dry out more quickly than in regions with extra humidity. Water Allow the growing medium to dry fully or almost fully between waterings – there is a bit of flexibility here. If you use a moisture meter, the needle should point to the dry range. If in doubt, err on the side of under- rather than overwatering. When you’re ready to water, use the bottom watering technique or water the surface of the soil with a narrow spouted watering can. If you keep your plant sitting on a saucer, make sure to empty it after watering, to avoid root rot. Temperature and Humidity Lifesaver cactus will thrive with humidity levels between 40 to 50 percent. Photo by Kristina Hicks-Hamblin. And while some gardeners claim to be able to keep these plants outdoors at temperatures down to 42°F, to be safe you should bring them indoors while temperatures are still above 50°F. If your lifesaver cactus is exposed to temperatures around 50°F, be sure to keep the potting medium or soil dry, since cool, wet conditions can lead to rot. Where to Buy You can generally find lifesaver cactus available at stores that specialize in succulents or from online vendors. Lifesaver Cactus For example, you can purchase an H. zebrina specimen in a four-inch pot from Wekiva Garden Foliage via Amazon. In addition to the species plant, there is a cultivated variety, H. zebrina ‘Variegata.’ Variegated lifesaver cactus. With the same fascinating flowers, this cultivar has yellow and green mottled stems. Variegated lifesaver cactus isn’t as easy to find as the species plant, so check with sellers that specialize in stapeliads if this one is on your succulent wish list. Maintenance If you were hoping for a low maintenance succulent, with lifesaver cactus you’ve got it! For the most part, you won’t have to worry about removing spent foliage, as you would with echeverias. However, do snip off spent flowers as you see them with a pair of clean, sterilized scissors or garden snips to avoid spreading disease. Fertilizing To provide your lifesaver cactus with nutrients, use a gentle fertilizer formulated for succulents, such as Dr. Earth’s Succulence Cactus and Succulent Plant Food. Apply the fertilizer only during the growing season, following the manufacturer’s instructions. Dr. Earth Succulence Dr. Earth Succulence is available in 16-ounce pump bottles from Arbico Organics. You can learn more about fertilizing succulents here. Repotting Every two to three years you’ll want to repot or at least freshen up the growing medium if the plant hasn’t outgrown its container. If the lifesaver cactus is growing in the wrong type of growing medium, one that lacks drainage, it’s wise to switch out the growing medium immediately. If the plant is becoming root bound, with its roots filling the pot, you should transplant to a slightly larger container, regardless of the time you last repotted. To repot, remove the lifesaver cactus from its current container. If you are transplanting into the same type of medium that was used previously, loosen up the outer roots just a bit. If you are switching to a different type of potting medium, remove as much of the old medium as possible from around the roots. Place the root ball centered into the new pot, and hold the plant in place so that the surface of the soil will be about a half an inch to an inch below the rim of the container. Then fill in around the sides of the root ball with growing medium. Gently tamp the medium down, and wait a week before watering. Propagation  Lifesaver cactus can be propagated from seeds or from stem cuttings. Here’s how: From Seed For this project you will need some small nursery pots or a seed-starting tray, cactus and succulent growing medium, and – of course – some seeds. Fill your pots or seed-starting trays with growing medium, leaving a half inch to an inch gap between the surface and the rim of the pot or tray. Sow the seeds on the surface of the medium one to two inches apart, but don’t cover. Spray with a mister so that the growing medium is moist but not soggy. Place the pot or tray under a humidity dome. You can do this by placing a nursery pot inside a sealable plastic bag, or putting several pots or a tray into a clear plastic bin. Find a location in bright, indirect light, and keep them warm, between 77 to 86°F – using a heat mat if necessary. After the seeds germinate – within a week or two – remove the pot or tray from the heat mat, and gradually transition the seedlings to lower humidity and more intense light. Allow the seedlings to keep growing in the same pot or tray for a year or more, until they are too crowded and require transplanting. Our guide to starting succulents from seed has step by step instructions. From Stem Cuttings The best time to propagate lifesaver cactus from stem cuttings is in spring or summer when conditions are warm. When taking cuttings, skip the blades and simply twist branches off at the elbow. If you have a long cutting – six inches or longer – you can cut it in half to make two cuttings, just be sure to remember which end goes up, and use clean, sterilized scissors or garden snips to cut it. Allow the cuttings to callus over in a dry location out of direct sunlight for about a week. Cutting with aerial root. Photo by Kristina Hicks-Hamblin. The removed branches may already have aerial roots, which will help them take root when planted. In addition to cuttings, you’ll also need growing medium and pots. You can use a variety of pot sizes, depending on how many cuttings you have. A three-inch pot is a good size for a group of three cuttings. When the cuttings have callused, fill the containers with potting medium until the soil is about two inches below the rim of the pot. Starting at the center, poke holes into the medium about a half an inch or so apart, and insert the stems about an inch or so deep. Tamp down the soil around the cuttings firmly, to help keep the stems upright. Situate the pot in a location where the cuttings will receive bright, indirect light. Rather than watering the cuttings right away, wait until they show signs of new growth since they don’t have roots yet. If the branches you are planting already have aerial roots, you can go ahead and water right away. The lifesaver cuttings should be well-rooted within a month or so. At this point, start watering as you would an adult specimen and transition the succulent to increased light exposure. Our guide to propagating succulents has more information. Managing Pests and Disease The only type of insect pests you’ll have to worry about with these plants are mealybugs which are fond of feeding on their soft stems. When you first bring your lifesaver cactus home – or before you purchase it, if possible – inspect the stems carefully for fluffy, white residue, a sign of mealybugs. Also lift the plant out of its pot and check the roots for root mealies, a type of pest that hides in the soil, sucking nutrients from the roots. They’ll be visible on the outer edge of the root ball if they’re present. Whether above soil or below, mealybugs suck nutrients from plants, weakening them, and can eventually kill these plants if left untreated. Our guide to managing mealybugs has more information about these pests. If it’s too late and you already have an infested lifesaver plant on your hands, don’t panic! Neem oil is quite effective at eradicating these pests as long as you are thorough and consistent with treatments. Monterey Neem Oil Need some neem oil? Monterey’s Neem Oil Concentrate is available in a variety of sizes via Arbico Organics. Spray down the entire plant with neem oil, including the growing medium, diluted according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Keep the plant out of direct sunlight for a few days following treatment as the oil can cause the plant to scorch. Repeat treatments for six to eight weeks, and the mealies should be gone! The main disease you’re likely to encounter is rot, as a result of overwatering, insufficient drainage, or using a poorly draining or compacted growing medium. Learn more about how to deal with rotting succulents in our guide. Save a Succulent Life Remember to provide lots of direct sunlight, allow the medium to dry out between waterings, and grow in a gritty, well-draining potting medium. Add to that some vigilance for mealybugs, and this stapeliad will produce loads of spiky stems and eye-catching flowers. Do you have any remaining questions about growing these succulents? Or do you have any growing tips of your own you’d care to share with our readers? Leave your questions, comments, and lifesaver cactus photos in the comments section below! Want to keep expanding your succulent knowledge? We have more reading for you right here: Photos by Kristina Hicks-Hamblin© Ask the Experts, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. See our TOS for more details. Product photos via Arbico Organics, Walmart, and Wekiva Foliage. Uncredited photos: Shutterstock. !function(f,b,e,v,n,t,s) if(f.fbq)return;n=f.fbq=function()n.callMethod? n.callMethod.apply(n,arguments):n.queue.push(arguments); if(!f._fbq)f._fbq=n;n.push=n;n.loaded=!0;n.version='2.0'; n.queue=[];t=b.createElement(e);t.async=!0; t.src=v;s=b.getElementsByTagName(e)[0]; s.parentNode.insertBefore(t,s)(window, document,'script', ' fbq('init', '176410929431717'); fbq('track', 'PageView'); Source link

[turtlevariabilis]

rottmnt season 1 episode 11b Pizza Pit

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[alexha2210]

Huernia zebrina With spreading, spineless stems, lifesaver cactus (Huernia zebrina) is a quirky succulent. Gracing a windowsill, trailing from a hanging basket, or serving as ground cover, the shiny red centers and tiger-striped petals of the flowers are uniquely mesmerizing! Lifesaver cactus is an evergreen succulent that has branching, leafless stems lined with spikes. Those spikes may look like spines, but they are not sharp to the touch, and despite its common name, H. zebrina is not a true cactus! We link to vendors to help you find relevant products. If you buy from one of our links, we may earn a commission. Also known as lifebuoy huernia, owl eyes, little owl eyes, and zebra-striped huernia, the stems have four to six angles, and are green, turning reddish purple when exposed to intense light or cool temperatures. Ready to learn more about this unique succulent? Here’s what I’ll cover: These succulent plants reach three to six inches tall and have a creeping growth habit, spreading to 12 inches wide or more. At the base of the stems is where the intriguing flowers appear, in pairs or small clusters. These blooms are fairly large – measuring between one and three inches wide – and are star-shaped, with yellow and red tiger stripes or mottling, and a glossy round ring at the center, inspiring the plant’s common name. Quick Look Common name(s): Lifesaver cactus, lifebuoy huernia, owl eyes, zebra-striped huernia Plant type: Evergreen succulent Hardiness (USDA Zone): 10b-11b (outdoors) Native to: Mozambique, South Africa, Swaziland, Zimbabwe Bloom time / season: Spring, summer Exposure: Full sun, light shade Soil type: Succulent/cactus growing medium, well draining Soil pH: 6.1-7.8, slightly acidic to slightly alkaline Time to maturity: 2-5 years Mature size: 12 inches wide x 3-6 inches high Best uses: Hanging baskets, houseplant, ground cover, xeriscaping Taxonomy Order: Gentianales Family: Apocynaceae Genus: Huernia Species: Zebrina Ready for a less picturesque detail? Since the flowers are pollinated by flies, they look – at least, glancingly – like rotting flesh. But these flowers don’t stink, unlike those of some of the relatives of this species. If they are pollinated, the flowers will give way to large seed pods that will ripen, dry, and split open. The seeds have bits of fluff on them, which allows them to be dispersed by the wind. This fascinating succulent is native to what is arguably the hotspot of succulent biodiversity in the world – the southern part of Africa, where it grows in Mozambique, South Africa, Swaziland, and Zimbabwe. In these regions, H. zebrina populations occur among rocky limestone soils or hard loam soils in dry scrubland. Photo by Kristina Hicks-Hamblin. H. zebrina is classified botanically within the Apocynaceae or dogbane family, related to family members that may seem unexpected – hoyas, string of hearts, and milkweed! Within the dogbane family, lifesaver cactus is grouped into the taxonomical subtribe Stapeliinae. The members of this subtribe are known as stapeliads – and include other similar-looking succulents such as starfish flower (Stapelia grandiflora) and Orbea variegata. Lifesaver cactus makes an excellent houseplant on a sunny windowsill or under a grow light. And mature specimens can also be used as hanging and trailing succulents in hanging baskets. You might also include it in a mixed succulent planter, or if you’re feeling rather whimsical, in a succulent fairy garden! Outdoors in USDA Hardiness Zones 10b to 11b, lifesaver cactus can be cultivated in a container, or planted in a xeriscape as a ground cover as long as you provide excellent drainage and protection from abundant rainfall. How to Grow To successfully grow lifesaver cactus you’ll need to provide the right light, water, and soil. You’ll also want to know about its temperature requirements, particularly if you are growing outdoors for part or all of the year! Let’s start with light. Light Lifesaver cactus needs four to eight hours of direct sunlight to thrive. Whether you’re growing indoors or out, that direct sun exposure should be during the morning and evening, rather than when the sun is at its hottest in the middle of the day. Photo by Kristina Hicks-Hamblin. If you’re keeping it outdoors for all or part of the year, be sure to choose a spot so it receives filtered light during the heat of the day. Indoors, a south facing window is your best bet, although you may need to hang a sheer white curtain at certain times. Are you using a grow light instead of or as a supplement to direct sun exposure? Make sure the plant is receiving at least 800 foot candles as an equivalent to that direct sun. Not sure how to measure foot candles? Use a light meter! Soil and Containers Lifesaver cactus needs a somewhat gritty potting medium to provide good drainage, and it should have a pH of between 6.1 and 7.8. When choosing a container, the first thing to look for is that it has drainage holes, a must when tending to any succulents. These plants don’t have deep roots, so shallow succulent planters that are wider than they are deep will work perfectly, plus giving them the lateral space to expand into a clump. For growing medium, you have options – lifesaver cactuses aren’t particularly fussy as long as they have good drainage. You may want to make your own succulent mix, using approximately 50 percent cactus and succulent soil with roughly 50 percent additional grit such as pumice added. I like to use Rosy Soil Cactus and Succulent mix, which is available in four-quart bags via Walmart. Rosy Soil Cactus and Succulent Mix If you live in a particularly arid location, you might want to skip adding extra grit to the succulent and cactus soil, since it will dry out more quickly than in regions with extra humidity. Water Allow the growing medium to dry fully or almost fully between waterings – there is a bit of flexibility here. If you use a moisture meter, the needle should point to the dry range. If in doubt, err on the side of under- rather than overwatering. When you’re ready to water, use the bottom watering technique or water the surface of the soil with a narrow spouted watering can. If you keep your plant sitting on a saucer, make sure to empty it after watering, to avoid root rot. Temperature and Humidity Lifesaver cactus will thrive with humidity levels between 40 to 50 percent. Photo by Kristina Hicks-Hamblin. And while some gardeners claim to be able to keep these plants outdoors at temperatures down to 42°F, to be safe you should bring them indoors while temperatures are still above 50°F. If your lifesaver cactus is exposed to temperatures around 50°F, be sure to keep the potting medium or soil dry, since cool, wet conditions can lead to rot. Where to Buy You can generally find lifesaver cactus available at stores that specialize in succulents or from online vendors. Lifesaver Cactus For example, you can purchase an H. zebrina specimen in a four-inch pot from Wekiva Garden Foliage via Amazon. In addition to the species plant, there is a cultivated variety, H. zebrina ‘Variegata.’ Variegated lifesaver cactus. With the same fascinating flowers, this cultivar has yellow and green mottled stems. Variegated lifesaver cactus isn’t as easy to find as the species plant, so check with sellers that specialize in stapeliads if this one is on your succulent wish list. Maintenance If you were hoping for a low maintenance succulent, with lifesaver cactus you’ve got it! For the most part, you won’t have to worry about removing spent foliage, as you would with echeverias. However, do snip off spent flowers as you see them with a pair of clean, sterilized scissors or garden snips to avoid spreading disease. Fertilizing To provide your lifesaver cactus with nutrients, use a gentle fertilizer formulated for succulents, such as Dr. Earth’s Succulence Cactus and Succulent Plant Food. Apply the fertilizer only during the growing season, following the manufacturer’s instructions. Dr. Earth Succulence Dr. Earth Succulence is available in 16-ounce pump bottles from Arbico Organics. You can learn more about fertilizing succulents here. Repotting Every two to three years you’ll want to repot or at least freshen up the growing medium if the plant hasn’t outgrown its container. If the lifesaver cactus is growing in the wrong type of growing medium, one that lacks drainage, it’s wise to switch out the growing medium immediately. If the plant is becoming root bound, with its roots filling the pot, you should transplant to a slightly larger container, regardless of the time you last repotted. To repot, remove the lifesaver cactus from its current container. If you are transplanting into the same type of medium that was used previously, loosen up the outer roots just a bit. If you are switching to a different type of potting medium, remove as much of the old medium as possible from around the roots. Place the root ball centered into the new pot, and hold the plant in place so that the surface of the soil will be about a half an inch to an inch below the rim of the container. Then fill in around the sides of the root ball with growing medium. Gently tamp the medium down, and wait a week before watering. Propagation  Lifesaver cactus can be propagated from seeds or from stem cuttings. Here’s how: From Seed For this project you will need some small nursery pots or a seed-starting tray, cactus and succulent growing medium, and – of course – some seeds. Fill your pots or seed-starting trays with growing medium, leaving a half inch to an inch gap between the surface and the rim of the pot or tray. Sow the seeds on the surface of the medium one to two inches apart, but don’t cover. Spray with a mister so that the growing medium is moist but not soggy. Place the pot or tray under a humidity dome. You can do this by placing a nursery pot inside a sealable plastic bag, or putting several pots or a tray into a clear plastic bin. Find a location in bright, indirect light, and keep them warm, between 77 to 86°F – using a heat mat if necessary. After the seeds germinate – within a week or two – remove the pot or tray from the heat mat, and gradually transition the seedlings to lower humidity and more intense light. Allow the seedlings to keep growing in the same pot or tray for a year or more, until they are too crowded and require transplanting. Our guide to starting succulents from seed has step by step instructions. From Stem Cuttings The best time to propagate lifesaver cactus from stem cuttings is in spring or summer when conditions are warm. When taking cuttings, skip the blades and simply twist branches off at the elbow. If you have a long cutting – six inches or longer – you can cut it in half to make two cuttings, just be sure to remember which end goes up, and use clean, sterilized scissors or garden snips to cut it. Allow the cuttings to callus over in a dry location out of direct sunlight for about a week. Cutting with aerial root. Photo by Kristina Hicks-Hamblin. The removed branches may already have aerial roots, which will help them take root when planted. In addition to cuttings, you’ll also need growing medium and pots. You can use a variety of pot sizes, depending on how many cuttings you have. A three-inch pot is a good size for a group of three cuttings. When the cuttings have callused, fill the containers with potting medium until the soil is about two inches below the rim of the pot. Starting at the center, poke holes into the medium about a half an inch or so apart, and insert the stems about an inch or so deep. Tamp down the soil around the cuttings firmly, to help keep the stems upright. Situate the pot in a location where the cuttings will receive bright, indirect light. Rather than watering the cuttings right away, wait until they show signs of new growth since they don’t have roots yet. If the branches you are planting already have aerial roots, you can go ahead and water right away. The lifesaver cuttings should be well-rooted within a month or so. At this point, start watering as you would an adult specimen and transition the succulent to increased light exposure. Our guide to propagating succulents has more information. Managing Pests and Disease The only type of insect pests you’ll have to worry about with these plants are mealybugs which are fond of feeding on their soft stems. When you first bring your lifesaver cactus home – or before you purchase it, if possible – inspect the stems carefully for fluffy, white residue, a sign of mealybugs. Also lift the plant out of its pot and check the roots for root mealies, a type of pest that hides in the soil, sucking nutrients from the roots. They’ll be visible on the outer edge of the root ball if they’re present. Whether above soil or below, mealybugs suck nutrients from plants, weakening them, and can eventually kill these plants if left untreated. Our guide to managing mealybugs has more information about these pests. If it’s too late and you already have an infested lifesaver plant on your hands, don’t panic! Neem oil is quite effective at eradicating these pests as long as you are thorough and consistent with treatments. Monterey Neem Oil Need some neem oil? Monterey’s Neem Oil Concentrate is available in a variety of sizes via Arbico Organics. Spray down the entire plant with neem oil, including the growing medium, diluted according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Keep the plant out of direct sunlight for a few days following treatment as the oil can cause the plant to scorch. Repeat treatments for six to eight weeks, and the mealies should be gone! The main disease you’re likely to encounter is rot, as a result of overwatering, insufficient drainage, or using a poorly draining or compacted growing medium. Learn more about how to deal with rotting succulents in our guide. Save a Succulent Life Remember to provide lots of direct sunlight, allow the medium to dry out between waterings, and grow in a gritty, well-draining potting medium. Add to that some vigilance for mealybugs, and this stapeliad will produce loads of spiky stems and eye-catching flowers. Do you have any remaining questions about growing these succulents? Or do you have any growing tips of your own you’d care to share with our readers? Leave your questions, comments, and lifesaver cactus photos in the comments section below! Want to keep expanding your succulent knowledge? We have more reading for you right here: Photos by Kristina Hicks-Hamblin© Ask the Experts, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. See our TOS for more details. Product photos via Arbico Organics, Walmart, and Wekiva Foliage. Uncredited photos: Shutterstock. !function(f,b,e,v,n,t,s) if(f.fbq)return;n=f.fbq=function()n.callMethod? n.callMethod.apply(n,arguments):n.queue.push(arguments); if(!f._fbq)f._fbq=n;n.push=n;n.loaded=!0;n.version='2.0'; n.queue=[];t=b.createElement(e);t.async=!0; t.src=v;s=b.getElementsByTagName(e)[0]; s.parentNode.insertBefore(t,s)(window, document,'script', ' fbq('init', '176410929431717'); fbq('track', 'PageView'); Source link

[angusstory]

Huernia zebrina With spreading, spineless stems, lifesaver cactus (Huernia zebrina) is a quirky succulent. Gracing a windowsill, trailing from a hanging basket, or serving as ground cover, the shiny red centers and tiger-striped petals of the flowers are uniquely mesmerizing! Lifesaver cactus is an evergreen succulent that has branching, leafless stems lined with spikes. Those spikes may look like spines, but they are not sharp to the touch, and despite its common name, H. zebrina is not a true cactus! We link to vendors to help you find relevant products. If you buy from one of our links, we may earn a commission. Also known as lifebuoy huernia, owl eyes, little owl eyes, and zebra-striped huernia, the stems have four to six angles, and are green, turning reddish purple when exposed to intense light or cool temperatures. Ready to learn more about this unique succulent? Here’s what I’ll cover: These succulent plants reach three to six inches tall and have a creeping growth habit, spreading to 12 inches wide or more. At the base of the stems is where the intriguing flowers appear, in pairs or small clusters. These blooms are fairly large – measuring between one and three inches wide – and are star-shaped, with yellow and red tiger stripes or mottling, and a glossy round ring at the center, inspiring the plant’s common name. Quick Look Common name(s): Lifesaver cactus, lifebuoy huernia, owl eyes, zebra-striped huernia Plant type: Evergreen succulent Hardiness (USDA Zone): 10b-11b (outdoors) Native to: Mozambique, South Africa, Swaziland, Zimbabwe Bloom time / season: Spring, summer Exposure: Full sun, light shade Soil type: Succulent/cactus growing medium, well draining Soil pH: 6.1-7.8, slightly acidic to slightly alkaline Time to maturity: 2-5 years Mature size: 12 inches wide x 3-6 inches high Best uses: Hanging baskets, houseplant, ground cover, xeriscaping Taxonomy Order: Gentianales Family: Apocynaceae Genus: Huernia Species: Zebrina Ready for a less picturesque detail? Since the flowers are pollinated by flies, they look – at least, glancingly – like rotting flesh. But these flowers don’t stink, unlike those of some of the relatives of this species. If they are pollinated, the flowers will give way to large seed pods that will ripen, dry, and split open. The seeds have bits of fluff on them, which allows them to be dispersed by the wind. This fascinating succulent is native to what is arguably the hotspot of succulent biodiversity in the world – the southern part of Africa, where it grows in Mozambique, South Africa, Swaziland, and Zimbabwe. In these regions, H. zebrina populations occur among rocky limestone soils or hard loam soils in dry scrubland. Photo by Kristina Hicks-Hamblin. H. zebrina is classified botanically within the Apocynaceae or dogbane family, related to family members that may seem unexpected – hoyas, string of hearts, and milkweed! Within the dogbane family, lifesaver cactus is grouped into the taxonomical subtribe Stapeliinae. The members of this subtribe are known as stapeliads – and include other similar-looking succulents such as starfish flower (Stapelia grandiflora) and Orbea variegata. Lifesaver cactus makes an excellent houseplant on a sunny windowsill or under a grow light. And mature specimens can also be used as hanging and trailing succulents in hanging baskets. You might also include it in a mixed succulent planter, or if you’re feeling rather whimsical, in a succulent fairy garden! Outdoors in USDA Hardiness Zones 10b to 11b, lifesaver cactus can be cultivated in a container, or planted in a xeriscape as a ground cover as long as you provide excellent drainage and protection from abundant rainfall. How to Grow To successfully grow lifesaver cactus you’ll need to provide the right light, water, and soil. You’ll also want to know about its temperature requirements, particularly if you are growing outdoors for part or all of the year! Let’s start with light. Light Lifesaver cactus needs four to eight hours of direct sunlight to thrive. Whether you’re growing indoors or out, that direct sun exposure should be during the morning and evening, rather than when the sun is at its hottest in the middle of the day. Photo by Kristina Hicks-Hamblin. If you’re keeping it outdoors for all or part of the year, be sure to choose a spot so it receives filtered light during the heat of the day. Indoors, a south facing window is your best bet, although you may need to hang a sheer white curtain at certain times. Are you using a grow light instead of or as a supplement to direct sun exposure? Make sure the plant is receiving at least 800 foot candles as an equivalent to that direct sun. Not sure how to measure foot candles? Use a light meter! Soil and Containers Lifesaver cactus needs a somewhat gritty potting medium to provide good drainage, and it should have a pH of between 6.1 and 7.8. When choosing a container, the first thing to look for is that it has drainage holes, a must when tending to any succulents. These plants don’t have deep roots, so shallow succulent planters that are wider than they are deep will work perfectly, plus giving them the lateral space to expand into a clump. For growing medium, you have options – lifesaver cactuses aren’t particularly fussy as long as they have good drainage. You may want to make your own succulent mix, using approximately 50 percent cactus and succulent soil with roughly 50 percent additional grit such as pumice added. I like to use Rosy Soil Cactus and Succulent mix, which is available in four-quart bags via Walmart. Rosy Soil Cactus and Succulent Mix If you live in a particularly arid location, you might want to skip adding extra grit to the succulent and cactus soil, since it will dry out more quickly than in regions with extra humidity. Water Allow the growing medium to dry fully or almost fully between waterings – there is a bit of flexibility here. If you use a moisture meter, the needle should point to the dry range. If in doubt, err on the side of under- rather than overwatering. When you’re ready to water, use the bottom watering technique or water the surface of the soil with a narrow spouted watering can. If you keep your plant sitting on a saucer, make sure to empty it after watering, to avoid root rot. Temperature and Humidity Lifesaver cactus will thrive with humidity levels between 40 to 50 percent. Photo by Kristina Hicks-Hamblin. And while some gardeners claim to be able to keep these plants outdoors at temperatures down to 42°F, to be safe you should bring them indoors while temperatures are still above 50°F. If your lifesaver cactus is exposed to temperatures around 50°F, be sure to keep the potting medium or soil dry, since cool, wet conditions can lead to rot. Where to Buy You can generally find lifesaver cactus available at stores that specialize in succulents or from online vendors. Lifesaver Cactus For example, you can purchase an H. zebrina specimen in a four-inch pot from Wekiva Garden Foliage via Amazon. In addition to the species plant, there is a cultivated variety, H. zebrina ‘Variegata.’ Variegated lifesaver cactus. With the same fascinating flowers, this cultivar has yellow and green mottled stems. Variegated lifesaver cactus isn’t as easy to find as the species plant, so check with sellers that specialize in stapeliads if this one is on your succulent wish list. Maintenance If you were hoping for a low maintenance succulent, with lifesaver cactus you’ve got it! For the most part, you won’t have to worry about removing spent foliage, as you would with echeverias. However, do snip off spent flowers as you see them with a pair of clean, sterilized scissors or garden snips to avoid spreading disease. Fertilizing To provide your lifesaver cactus with nutrients, use a gentle fertilizer formulated for succulents, such as Dr. Earth’s Succulence Cactus and Succulent Plant Food. Apply the fertilizer only during the growing season, following the manufacturer’s instructions. Dr. Earth Succulence Dr. Earth Succulence is available in 16-ounce pump bottles from Arbico Organics. You can learn more about fertilizing succulents here. Repotting Every two to three years you’ll want to repot or at least freshen up the growing medium if the plant hasn’t outgrown its container. If the lifesaver cactus is growing in the wrong type of growing medium, one that lacks drainage, it’s wise to switch out the growing medium immediately. If the plant is becoming root bound, with its roots filling the pot, you should transplant to a slightly larger container, regardless of the time you last repotted. To repot, remove the lifesaver cactus from its current container. If you are transplanting into the same type of medium that was used previously, loosen up the outer roots just a bit. If you are switching to a different type of potting medium, remove as much of the old medium as possible from around the roots. Place the root ball centered into the new pot, and hold the plant in place so that the surface of the soil will be about a half an inch to an inch below the rim of the container. Then fill in around the sides of the root ball with growing medium. Gently tamp the medium down, and wait a week before watering. Propagation  Lifesaver cactus can be propagated from seeds or from stem cuttings. Here’s how: From Seed For this project you will need some small nursery pots or a seed-starting tray, cactus and succulent growing medium, and – of course – some seeds. Fill your pots or seed-starting trays with growing medium, leaving a half inch to an inch gap between the surface and the rim of the pot or tray. Sow the seeds on the surface of the medium one to two inches apart, but don’t cover. Spray with a mister so that the growing medium is moist but not soggy. Place the pot or tray under a humidity dome. You can do this by placing a nursery pot inside a sealable plastic bag, or putting several pots or a tray into a clear plastic bin. Find a location in bright, indirect light, and keep them warm, between 77 to 86°F – using a heat mat if necessary. After the seeds germinate – within a week or two – remove the pot or tray from the heat mat, and gradually transition the seedlings to lower humidity and more intense light. Allow the seedlings to keep growing in the same pot or tray for a year or more, until they are too crowded and require transplanting. Our guide to starting succulents from seed has step by step instructions. From Stem Cuttings The best time to propagate lifesaver cactus from stem cuttings is in spring or summer when conditions are warm. When taking cuttings, skip the blades and simply twist branches off at the elbow. If you have a long cutting – six inches or longer – you can cut it in half to make two cuttings, just be sure to remember which end goes up, and use clean, sterilized scissors or garden snips to cut it. Allow the cuttings to callus over in a dry location out of direct sunlight for about a week. Cutting with aerial root. Photo by Kristina Hicks-Hamblin. The removed branches may already have aerial roots, which will help them take root when planted. In addition to cuttings, you’ll also need growing medium and pots. You can use a variety of pot sizes, depending on how many cuttings you have. A three-inch pot is a good size for a group of three cuttings. When the cuttings have callused, fill the containers with potting medium until the soil is about two inches below the rim of the pot. Starting at the center, poke holes into the medium about a half an inch or so apart, and insert the stems about an inch or so deep. Tamp down the soil around the cuttings firmly, to help keep the stems upright. Situate the pot in a location where the cuttings will receive bright, indirect light. Rather than watering the cuttings right away, wait until they show signs of new growth since they don’t have roots yet. If the branches you are planting already have aerial roots, you can go ahead and water right away. The lifesaver cuttings should be well-rooted within a month or so. At this point, start watering as you would an adult specimen and transition the succulent to increased light exposure. Our guide to propagating succulents has more information. Managing Pests and Disease The only type of insect pests you’ll have to worry about with these plants are mealybugs which are fond of feeding on their soft stems. When you first bring your lifesaver cactus home – or before you purchase it, if possible – inspect the stems carefully for fluffy, white residue, a sign of mealybugs. Also lift the plant out of its pot and check the roots for root mealies, a type of pest that hides in the soil, sucking nutrients from the roots. They’ll be visible on the outer edge of the root ball if they’re present. Whether above soil or below, mealybugs suck nutrients from plants, weakening them, and can eventually kill these plants if left untreated. Our guide to managing mealybugs has more information about these pests. If it’s too late and you already have an infested lifesaver plant on your hands, don’t panic! Neem oil is quite effective at eradicating these pests as long as you are thorough and consistent with treatments. Monterey Neem Oil Need some neem oil? Monterey’s Neem Oil Concentrate is available in a variety of sizes via Arbico Organics. Spray down the entire plant with neem oil, including the growing medium, diluted according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Keep the plant out of direct sunlight for a few days following treatment as the oil can cause the plant to scorch. Repeat treatments for six to eight weeks, and the mealies should be gone! The main disease you’re likely to encounter is rot, as a result of overwatering, insufficient drainage, or using a poorly draining or compacted growing medium. Learn more about how to deal with rotting succulents in our guide. Save a Succulent Life Remember to provide lots of direct sunlight, allow the medium to dry out between waterings, and grow in a gritty, well-draining potting medium. Add to that some vigilance for mealybugs, and this stapeliad will produce loads of spiky stems and eye-catching flowers. Do you have any remaining questions about growing these succulents? Or do you have any growing tips of your own you’d care to share with our readers? Leave your questions, comments, and lifesaver cactus photos in the comments section below! Want to keep expanding your succulent knowledge? 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